I've a 03 ExV6 Accord with about 1k miles on it now. Almost every time when I start it in very cold morning, it gives me some kind of grinding sound right after the engine starts. I won't have the problem when the engine is warm. I was thinking to bring it to the dealer, but they may not be able to replicate it since it happens only in the first start in cold morning. Any suggestion on what I should do ?
On my commute to work I experienced a rather unusual occurence. While driving my 03 EX V6 sedan, the front left door speaker sounded like it had blown. To be honest it sounded like the speaker was farting, so I came to the conclusion that the speaker had blown. Four hours later I left for my lunch break, turned the radio on, and the speaker was working properly again. Im not sure what the problem could have been, maybe the amp is acting up or its a faulty speaker. Any ideas ? Thanks
My '99 CRV has been doing that almost since day 1 when I bought it, though I've noticed it's gotten worse lately when it's cold, dealer said it was normal when I first brought it in. It's kinda like slowing down, putting it in neutral, stepping on the gas, then putting it in gear again, like a "neutral drop". I've got 72K miles on my CRV, glad your's is covered.
I have had the exact same problem with my '03 EX-L. Same speaker, same noises. It hasn't done it lately, but has done it 4-5 times in the month and a half I've had the car. Usually, if I turn off the stereo for a few minutes and turn it back on, it will be fine.
Since it hasn't acted up within the past couple of weeks and the speaker sounds fine otherwise, I decided for the time being not to take it in to the dealer.
I had a similar problem in a non-Honda. Turned out to be bad seals on the intake manifold, which were causing a vaccuum leak. They sealed better when the engine was warm, thus the cold-start problems.
Does your idle "hunt" at all? Might not be the problem in your case, but you never know.
webexplorer wrote: "I've a 03 ExV6 Accord with about 1k miles on it now. Almost every time when I start it in very cold morning, it gives me some kind of grinding sound right after the engine starts. I won't have the problem when the engine is warm. I was thinking to bring it to the dealer, but they may not be able to replicate it since it happens only in the first start in cold morning. Any suggestion on what I should do ?"
Ironically, everything's probably okay. Power steering fluids (not just on Hondas, either!) make strange noises - not unlike hideously grinding metal - when very cold. The tip-off is your reference that the noise subsides fairly quickly. However, you are wrong in one aspect. The dealer CAN replicate the problem through the simple expedieint of keeping your car overnight. I -would- call or take it in if only to describe the condition. I'll bet they tell you the same thing I told you, though.
i'll bring the car to dealer and see what they say about it. But one thing I tried this morning(~7F) was to wait for all the lights in the speedometer to go away before I started the car, and I did not get the noise. Will try again more often to see if this is consistent. Thanks.
I had a creaking sound that used to come from the drivers side dash but it was fixed (A-Pillar clip). Now I'm hearing rattles coming from the drivers side door and somewhere in the back seat on the passenger side. Anyone else have these little noises?
My driver's side window creak has disappeared; I had thought this to be the window glass' top edge grating against the window channel. All that grating probably smoothed the contact surfaces and now it's quiet. This negates the dealer's assertion that the noise was the "aerodynamic effect" of the car's design.
Driver's side dash noise is still there - will tell the dealer about the A-pillar clip and another poster's discovery that the hood's rubber damper was transmitting noise to the interior.
I just purchased a certified 2000 accord coupe ex-v6. I'm having a couple of problems...first, it took about 4 tries to crank the car, the last time I put on the gas and it started up. This has only happened once. Second, there is a hesitation on acceleration almost as if it is out of gas. Once you get going its fine. If anyone knows whats causing this please let me know.
On my 91 Accord the clicking noise for the turn signal is going all the time, even when I turn my signal off. I have tried to replace the flasher from an auto parts store, but that didn't work. Any suggestions?
Bostonoriole, do you know if the wheel's lug nuts are "torque-tightened ?" If they are, there's even heat dissipation by the rim/rotor after braking - this prevents rotor warping and the associated brade pedal pulsing.
I recently purchased a 2002 4cyl. Honda Accord. After vehicle comes to operating temperature;in drive and at a complete stop the entire vehicle vibrates. Most noticeable in the seats and steering wheel. I bought it as a demo with 6,000 miles on it. Back to dealership twice but they are convinced that this is characteristic of the 4cyl. Accord. I strongly disagree. Does anyone else have this problem and what is the solution. Dealership set idle at factory spec. 650rpm.
I am going to buy it, however I discovered that the ATF is not as red as the ATF of my 90 Camry, looks very similar to the fresh engine oil. Is this normal to Honda ATF? it did't smell burnt.
it is 95 Accord EX 4 door(does it have a VTEC engine or normall SDOH 2.2L engine?)it has 60000 miles on it, first owner (actually second, his mom was the first owner). The front bumper has been replaced due to an accident, he said it was a small accident, and only the front bumper was damaged. I also talked to the shop where he replaced the bumper, they said only front bumper was damaged. I am wondering if this kind of accident will have any affects of the mechanical parts, such as radiator, A/C, rngine or transmission...? should I go ahead or avoid it? The bad thing is I already paid him $200 deposit. another thing is the ATF color, not red, much more like the fresh engine oil, but it is transparent. no burnt smell. price is USD $6100.
logitech1, I had a 96 non-VTEC SOHC Accord. The only time it vibrated at all, was very briefly when the A/C was first turned on at idle. Given the mileage on the car you're considering, I'd have to wonder whether the timing and balance shaft belts will be needing replacement. If so (and trust me, you DON'T want either or both of them to break while the motor's running...), you'd likely be looking at ~$275.00 U.S. (The belts aren't all that expensive, but the labor's horrendous.) If the balance shaft belt has stretched beyond service tolerance, these shafts my be out of time with regard to the crankshaft position. This could very well result in a vibration issue. Same could hold true if the camshaft timing belt has stretched. In this scenario the intake and exhaust valves could be opening and closing late which in turn would affect smoothness and power. Ask the owner if either or both belts were ever replaced. If he says either or both have been replaced (It would NOT make sense to only replace one belt if things were already torn down for access.), I'd wonder if an independent shop or do-it-yourselfer had botched the job. Up until the last couple of years, Honda engines turned counterclockwise. If some fool replaced the belt(s) and turned the engine crankshaft clockwise (the way most engines rotate), the timing could have jumped a cog and set the stage for the trouble you've noticed on this car. Just speculation, but I'm trying to cover the more probable scenario before you commit. If it were me, I'd get my deposit back unless you're comfortable with the prospect of additonal expense(s) soon. Good luck.
When I shift out of 1st it makes this squeeking noise, a bit like wiping glass with windex too long, and it only happens when comming out of first (not going in, not in any other gear). It happens all the time but clearly heard only when at low speeds. Its annoying - yes but I was wondering whats the problem? Its a brand new car < 1k mi and I have heard this from day 1, only not as loud.
rroadking, the '96 and '97 Accords had one active hydraulic engine mount that literally pumped fluid between two chambers to smooth the idle characteristics. Dunno about the '94 and '95 models, though. Also I don't know about the '98 - 2002s either. I seem to recall that my '96 had an electrical lead going to the rear engine mount and was visible from above, so check. If you can safely disconnect that lead (if your car even has it) while the engine is idling, AND you notice no degradation in smoothness, odds are that the rear mount has failed or its solonoid valve has. If something along this line IS at fault, I'd think your warranty should cover it. (You've got, what, the remainder of the factory 3 yr/36,000 mile warranty?)
cho7819, take it back to the dealer. That's why you have a factory warranty for goodness sake. It's factored in as part of the price of the car, so use it.
Been buying Honda ATF since 97 and it all had a red tinge to it-so if the ATF in the 95 Honda is not red-is either really old or not Honda ATF. Time to change it-would do one change and then drive 100 miles or so and then do another-then maybe 15/25% is old stuff.
You have to be careful with transmission fluid in Accords. Honda is very specific when they say you must only use Honda transmission fluid, no aftermarket stuff.
hey auburn, i need your help again, my brake light bulb is going bad, so i need to change them, but i took a quick look and couldn't find a way to open up the carpet area that's covering the rear turn signal and brake light, how can i reach the brake light bulb?
So that type of behavior is not normal (#4212)? I posted my experiences with abrupt shifting of my '02 EX-V6 a few weeks ago (#4103), but it sounded like that behavior was normal (#4104 and #4106). What you describe seems to be similar to what I experience. When I accelerate out of 1st, my Accord seems to hesitate and then suddenly shift into 2nd. The shift is sometimes so hard it jerks me forward. I don't experience anything like that from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th. Nor have I seen this with any other AT car I've driven.
All I know is that Honda is very specific when they say you should only use their transmission fluid. Maybe that only applies to older Hondas. While Dextron may be the better fluid it might not be right for your transmission.
Ya can always tell pioneers-they are the folks with arrows sticking out of their backs-on occasion one of them discovers something worthwhile. If this guy uses Dexron III for his own Honda tranny-ok but if he uses it for his customers-bad IMHO. Also people assume if they are paying more for "synthetic" atf it must be better-maybe but modern trannies are designed for specific lubricity and other factors-ya might get lucky but the downside could be few K in tranny repair/replacement. But then you might get lucky and save $5/atf change.
I am having a problem with what I consider to be excessive vibration at idle in my new Accord.Seems to be worst at between 650 and 750 rpm with my foot on the brake in drive.The dealer said that all 4 cyl Accords do this and that it will not effect the reliability. I disagree,I expect a Honda to run as smooth as glass, and am taking the car back tomorrow and meeting with the service manager and the sales person who sold me the car. I'll let you know what they have to say.Is anyone else experiencing this problem?
When I bought ATF for my wife's Accord at my dealer, the parts guy said the Honda brand wasn't really necessary. A mechanic that happened to be standing there said the same thing. I bought the Honda stuff anyway but I wonder what they are putting in the customer's cars?
They also said there is a bolt on oil filter kit available for automatic transmissions that have been having problems. The re built ones are coming with this filter.
And other fluids as well. Honda recommends using only Honda brand fluid. I would use it. If nothing else it put the liability of failure on them. I know I used non Honda power steerig fluid once and the system promptly started leaking. Bad. When I went back to Honda fluid...It stopped. That was enough for me.
A Honda technician & owner forum (http://www.voy.com/8971/) has threads on real-world "before & after" experiences with Honda and non-Honda Auto Tran Fluid. Overwhelming conclusion: Honda ATF appears to have special characteristics for best transmission performance of Honda vehicles. Those who refilled with non-Honda brands experienced misoperation and ultimately, avoidable repair expenses.
Just curious-where does it bolt on-maybe in front of the tranny cooler coil near the engine radiator? Don't think atf is under much pressure there-any leak would suggest it is not well made at all. I look for particles/crud every time I change my atf and see none-a bit of pasty looking stuff on the magnetic drain plug.
I am a owner of a 02 cr-v and at first when they came out Honda had a problem with the CEL what they call sensitive or inadequate setting in the on board comp, and a lots of cr-v people got theirs comp re-program. after the light comes on and off it will leave a code in memory that a dealer can read even if the light is not on but it had been in the past. For the cr-v the code is for the o2 sensor in some cases they will replaced the sensor and the CEL light will come back, that is when honda decided to re-program the comp. If you ask the dealer they "should" be able to confirm this. The accord 03 and the crv have the same eng. so I will not be surprise if they have the same problem with the accords too. Greetings from sunny Miami. Fig.
03 Accords owners check the CRV problems board to learn about the CEL light. You may have to go back to when the CRV came into the market and read from that point. Greetings from sunny Miami. "Fig"
Same problem as others on this board. Intermittent starting problem. The engine cranks but will not go ahead and start. Dealer kept car 29 days waiting on fuel pump, etc. They called two days ago to say will be a few more days before parts arrive. Suddenly called yesterday and said pick up car, it is ready. Last night had same problem again twice. Car has less than 1000 miles on it. Seems like they didn't do anything to it. Lemon Law in AL is 30 days. Coincidence that on day 29 it was suddenly ready?
Question for jrock80-- did they ever figure yours out? As of Jan 25, post # 4081 you mentioned that you were looking at Lemon Law also for this same exact problem.
I didn't ask where the filter is located since I wasn't really interested at the time. We have the 98 4 cylinder which isn't prone to the trany problems and the fluid has always looked good when I change it. 95,000 miles so far and no problems with the car.
If I remember right, the kit cost $60 or $80. I think he said it had a spin on type filter like my Subaru.
Dexron fluids are designed for GM products, but ~can~ be used in many imports as well as older Chryslers and pre-'89 Fords. Currently Chrysler ~strongly~ recommends their proprietary "ATF +4" fluid. Most Fords strongly recommend a "Mercon V" ATF. Very few imports actually recommend Dexron III anymore, but Honda ~does~ allow it as top-up. If any significant quantity of Dexron III is used, Honda recommends in their 2003 owners' manuals that the fluid be flushed and Honda Genuine ATF-Z1 fluid be used to refill. The "penalty" for using Dexron (according to Honda) is that "shift quality may be affected". This is the key. Dexron III is a fluid with friction modifiers to affect the frictional qualities of the internal clutches. GM transmissions are designed around Dexron III. Virtually all import ATs are designed around a fluid exhibiting "Highly Friction Modified" friction modifiers. Running pure Dexron III in these ATs will result in harsher shifts as the Dexron III fluid permeates the clutch facings. It can take a thousan miles or more. It isn't that the Dexron fluid is bad for the transmission, per se. Just that it has inadequate friction modifiers for smooth shift quality in these non-GM transmissions. In addition to shift quality, "judder" - a pre-shift vibration between shifts or torque converter lockup can also come into play. (This was a reason Chrysler and Ford went to their proprietary fluids, too, though Chrysler was having transmission failures several years ago that required going to a synthetic fluid with their "ATF +4".) If your Honda is under warranty, definitely go with the genuine article. It would be difficult for Honda to deny a tranny warranty claim if you can document that you were using their own ATF. Post warranty, the issue isn't quite as clear cut. My '96 Accord 4-cyl with AT had developed rather sharp shift characteristics by the time the car was 4 years old even though it only had less than 20,000 miles on the clock. I'd read that Honda ATs were subject to sticking shift valves that released late and abruptly with time, and that an aftermarket ATF supplement, "Lubegard" was effective in freeing sticky valves. I flushed eight times with good ol' $.99/qt.Dexron III to remove as much of the original Honda fluid as I could, driving about 10 miles between fills and drains. Prior to the final refill, I dumped 8 oz. of Lubegard "Black" (the color of the bottle) HFM ("Highly Friction Modified") supplement and transmission protectant in and then used Dexron III to refill and top up after warming the tranny. (Recycled a lot of good fluid that day...) Essentially the Lubegard Black converts Dexron III to a highly friction modified fluid. The results were awesome. Immediately the car was liveable again, and by the time I racked up another thousan miles, that transmission never shifted that smoothly even when new. The shifts were still apparent, but now just a very quick, but gentle, nudge. I was initially concerned that the comfort might come at the expense of excess slippage. But I monitored my mileage, and it stayed at 25+ mpg around town and 32+ at highway speeds. The Lubegard Black is pricey (about $17.00 for a 10 oz. bottle and shpg. if ordered from their website, but around $11.00 at NAPA stores, now), But in my case it was a problem solver. I don't work for Lubegard, nor am I a distributor. If you want to read their advertising claims and the company history, it's at the following website:
Thanks for the tip ray_71 for #4241. I'll check into the motor mount. I do have full warranty, although dealership says there is not a problem with vibration.
I also have this problem. There are a lot of us with this annoying problem. I was also told this was "characteristic" of the car. I don't think we should accept this response. Why don't you go into the dealership & let them know that this is unacceptable & maybe kick something to let them know you are serious.(This didn't work for me) Maybe we can do a class action complaint. please let me know the outcome. Do you have your ac on? Try turning that off.
I will look and check but isnt there an acces panel you can remove? If not then I guess they want you to pull the liner back aay. To do this you will need to remove the clips for the center plastic panel, then the side clips found in the liner and then pull it back out of the way. Brake light bulbs are part of the 3/36,000 warranty in case you didnt know...good luck
I recently had my Accord ATF fluid replaced with Dextron III. Both my mechanic and a transmission shop said Dextron was fine. However...
A few months later, when the shift lever is put in D-4, only the third gear is used. The car is sluggish from a stop, and over-revs at highway speed. I can get first gear if I put the shift lever into "1", but I can't get second gear with any method. Also, there is about a second delay after putting the shifter in reverse before the transmission actually shifts.
Could this be a problem with not using Honda ATF? Any chance installing Honda ATF might fix it?
Some have suggested that this is a transmission communication problem. They said this is a "limp home" mode caused because the tranny doesn't know what gear to be in. Any idea how to see if it is the transmission computer? How much does it cost to fix a computer. A transmission shop wants to open the whole thing up, to a tune of $1400-$2000.
OK-here is what u have to do. Take another vehicle and get some Honda ATF-enough for 3 changes-that's about 8 or 9 quarts-get one of those funnel with a clear line attached which is how you will pour the Honda ATF into the Tranny dip stick hole. Remove the Tranny drain plug with the square end of a 3/8" socket drive-pour it all out-clean of the magnetic end of the plug with a paper towel-fill it back up-take about 2.5 quarts-check manual. Drive it about 15 miles-repeat the drain fill-drive 50 miles and do it again while the atf is hot-be careful that stuff gets to 250F+.
If you are very lucky the clutches in your tranny are not damaged enough and they may recover. However if they and or other parts are damaged-the vast majority of the "tranny" shops out there are ill equipped to work on a Honda tranny. Have seen too many horror shows with those people repairing GM auto trannies and they are fairly simple comapred to a Honda 4 speed AT.
I would suggest buying a used tranny out of a wreck-see it in the wreck and remove it yourself-you can see the mileage and condition of the vehicle-before I would trust a tranny shop to do a rebuild. If Honda does the rebuild-have heard prices of 3/4K.
Stories like this make my blood run cold. These guys probably thought they were saving you a couple of bucks but the harm is done-intentional or not.
Let us know how you come out.
Oh have you gotten a CEL code light yet? Should have.
Comments
Thanks.
Since it hasn't acted up within the past couple of weeks and the speaker sounds fine otherwise, I decided for the time being not to take it in to the dealer.
Does your idle "hunt" at all? Might not be the problem in your case, but you never know.
Brian
"I've a 03 ExV6 Accord with about 1k miles on it now. Almost every time when I start it in very cold morning, it gives me some kind of grinding sound right after the engine starts. I won't have the problem when the engine is warm. I was thinking to bring it to the dealer, but they may not be able to replicate it since it happens only in the first start in cold morning. Any suggestion on what I should do ?"
Ironically, everything's probably okay. Power steering fluids (not just on Hondas, either!) make strange noises - not unlike hideously grinding metal - when very cold. The tip-off is your reference that the noise subsides fairly quickly. However, you are wrong in one aspect. The dealer CAN replicate the problem through the simple expedieint of keeping your car overnight. I -would- call or take it in if only to describe the condition. I'll bet they tell you the same thing I told you, though.
i'll bring the car to dealer and see what they say about it. But one thing I tried this morning(~7F) was to wait for all the lights in the speedometer to go away before I started the car, and I did not get the noise. Will try again more often to see if this is consistent. Thanks.
Driver's side dash noise is still there - will tell the dealer about the A-pillar clip and another poster's discovery that the hood's rubber damper was transmitting noise to the interior.
Is this normal? Any ideas why?
We have a 99 lx 4cyl with five speed and 46000 miles and never had a vibration. Plenty in an old Mercedes diesel but not in the Accord.
Do you guys think there is any significant difference. What kind of problems might using Dextron cause.
They also said there is a bolt on oil filter kit available for automatic transmissions that have been having problems. The re built ones are coming with this filter.
Eric
The accord 03 and the crv have the same eng. so I will not be surprise if they have the same problem with the accords too.
Greetings from sunny Miami.
Fig.
Greetings from sunny Miami.
"Fig"
Seems like they didn't do anything to it. Lemon Law in AL is 30 days. Coincidence that on day 29 it was suddenly ready?
Question for jrock80-- did they ever figure yours out? As of Jan 25, post # 4081 you mentioned that you were looking at Lemon Law also for this same exact problem.
Any suggestions appreciated.
If I remember right, the kit cost $60 or $80. I think he said it had a spin on type filter like my Subaru.
Eric
http://www.brake-noise.com/
with this annoying problem. I was also told this was "characteristic" of the car. I don't think we should accept this response. Why don't you go
into the dealership & let them know that this is
unacceptable & maybe kick something to let them know you are serious.(This didn't work for me)
Maybe we can do a class action complaint. please let me know the outcome. Do you have your ac on? Try turning that off.
I recently had my Accord ATF fluid replaced with Dextron III. Both my mechanic and a transmission shop said Dextron was fine. However...
A few months later, when the shift lever is put in D-4, only the third gear is used. The car is sluggish from a stop, and over-revs at highway speed. I can get first gear if I put the shift lever into "1", but I can't get second gear with any method. Also, there is about a second delay after putting the shifter in reverse before the transmission actually shifts.
Could this be a problem with not using Honda ATF? Any chance installing Honda ATF might fix it?
Some have suggested that this is a transmission communication problem. They said this is a "limp home" mode caused because the tranny doesn't know what gear to be in. Any idea how to see if it is the transmission computer? How much does it cost to fix a computer. A transmission shop wants to open the whole thing up, to a tune of $1400-$2000.
If you are very lucky the clutches in your tranny are not damaged enough and they may recover. However if they and or other parts are damaged-the vast majority of the "tranny" shops out there are ill equipped to work on a Honda tranny. Have seen too many horror shows with those people repairing GM auto trannies and they are fairly simple comapred to a Honda 4 speed AT.
I would suggest buying a used tranny out of a wreck-see it in the wreck and remove it yourself-you can see the mileage and condition of the vehicle-before I would trust a tranny shop to do a rebuild. If Honda does the rebuild-have heard prices of 3/4K.
Stories like this make my blood run cold. These guys probably thought they were saving you a couple of bucks but the harm is done-intentional or not.
Let us know how you come out.
Oh have you gotten a CEL code light yet? Should have.