Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

clint98v6at

Thanks for the advice. I'll go ahead and do the drain/refill myself & save the money. I haven't had any tranny problems, this is just routine maintenance. I bought the car with 31K so I'm not sure if it was done at 30K. I'll make sure to check the fluid color and continue to drain until clear. Thanks!

clint98v6at

I wouldn't base your decision not to use Safelite just because of my post. Safelite is probably as reputable as any other company. I would just try to make sure you have a qualified installer. Our installer through Safelite obviously wasn't. Took 3 times to correct leaks. Now we have black glue/sealant (RTV?) smudged and globbed all along the inside where the dash meets the window.

This all took place last week, so we are still in the process of resolving it. I'm not too worried about it since it's a company car, but it's frustrating none the less.

I guess it's just luck of the draw on getting a quality installer. I'm sure most people have had good luck with Safelite. I'm probably the exception.

Mr_Shiftright

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mikek37

thanks for the reply everyone. The newly installed windshield isn't leak as of yet, it rained for a good three hours yesterday and there are no indications of leaking. But the windshield is still creaking and squealing when I go over bumps or rough pavement. Maybe its the weather stripping around the area. Any ideas

kenbb

Are you saying I had the balancer shaft seal done already? Or that I need to get it done? I can't find any paper work that says I have. Can you really find this information or am I just misreading your message. I went to the local Honda place today. They told me Honda had stopped all the warranty recalls on the balancer seals and on the ignition switch and I could no longer get them done. Said they tried the EGR but did not stop the problem. they said they were going to look at some solenoid something or other in the transmission. Also something about maybe an inner CV joint. To top all of this off When I pulled my car in to leave it over night this evening the ignition key would not turn all the way back to the start position and would not come out of the ignition! Man I am really starting to feel jinxed. Do you think these guys are telling me the truth? My car will be with them all day tomorrow . Right now I don't know what to think.

lawgirl

I have about 1500 miles on my 2003 V6 Coupe and it seems like my car has lost its energy. It seems sluggish and tired. My last three cars were used, so this is my first new car. Is it typical for a car to feel different after you break it in a little? Has anybody noticed this with the 2003 V6?

auburn63

The balancer shaft seal holder was installed on your car in april of 2001 at 55,683 miles but they are also correct in saying that the update is over as it has timed out as of Jan,01,2003. As for the ignition switch recall there is no time limit on it and you did not have it completed so you are able to get it done.
 I really cant believe that it is not the EGR ports as I see alot of them but I am not working on your car and they are. It is possible that an inner cv joint could cause the problem but they are rare unless all of the greese has leaked out. I can only tell you that if you have doubts take their diagnosis and get another opinion. Have them do the warranty repairs while you are there so it isnt a complete loss of time...Good luck

josung

I recently purchased a '97 Accord EX wagon. The D4 gear light on the dash does not come on. All the other gear lights work fine. Shifts are a little rough, but other than that, the car drives fine. What could this be?

bearpamplin

Mine is fine. 3200 miles and doing well, broke it in slow and am getting ok gas mileage, it gets better after 6000 miles. I have a friend who has a 2002 Civic SI and said it does well after 6000 miles. I changed my rims to the 5 spoke 4 cylinder rims, it looks better.

clint98v6at

Previous posts mention removing the ATF drain plug with a 3/8" ratchet drive. Can I use just a 3/8" extension without a socket? I checked Sears, they don't sell a 3/8" square drive, only hex. Am I missing something here?

mikek37

Whats the deal with changing the V6 rims to the 4 cyclinder. Personally I think the 6's are better? To eachs own

according2me

is what is needed. No fittings are necessary. If you have a 1/2 ratchet you can adapt it down to 3/8 also.

This is for the 4cyl auto, I assume it to be the same for the v6 auto also. Any v6 DIYers out there?

ray_h71

"...Can I use just a 3/8" extension without a socket?..."

clint98v6at, THAT's exactly what you should use. If you can't get adequate leverage with the handle to "break" the plug loose, try a length of 1/2" pipe slipped over the handle.

ray_h71

"...Can I use just a 3/8" extension without a socket?..."

clint98v6at, THAT's exactly what you should use. If you can't get adequate leverage with the handle to "break" the plug loose, try a length of 1/2" pipe slipped over the handle.

laxjtf

Sorry I'm responding late.

I took my Honda to my local dealer, Goudy Honda in Alhambra, LA. I only have a verbal approval from my dealer. I have not gotten anything in writing. They said they are ordering the transmission parts and will let me know when it comes in. I will let you know if I hear any more details.

patentman1

Draining and re-filling the tranny fluid was really easy. Almost as easy as an oil change. I have not found a funnel with a flexible end that will fit inside the dipstick. I'm just using a rolled up piece of paper with the flexible funnel. Any better suggestions?

I took everyone's advice and did 3 cycles of drain and refill after my mechanic used a dextron fluid. I went 30K miles between the change and the fluid was really dark. It took 3 changes just to have the fluid appear that red color again.

Some local Honda mechanics told me to just change the tranny fluid every 15K miles. I'll give it a try!

And yes... the 3/8 driver will fit on the v6 drain plug.

according2me

funnel with the long hose attachment and it also has a flow/noflow valve. They usually have it near the trans fluid in their auto section. It fits the hole in the 4cyl dipstick.

bearpamplin

I liked the 5 spoke chrome look better than the V6 powder paint look rims. Also wanted mine to look different, tinted the windows, spoiler. Lower front spoiler, auto dim rear mirror.

bburton1

The first time you take it out it might be a bit tight-rather than slapping a cheater bar on your 3/8" drive-just give it a slight whack with a hammer to give it a bit of a shock-less strain on the threads. Remember righty tighty lefty loosey. Also take care when removing the plug cause you just drove the vehicle for at least 20 miles to heat up the atf-it will GUSH out-not under pressure but this stuff is as thin as water and it is really hot-I still wear some old gloves and a heavy long sleeve shirt or coat to protect my arm. Oil burns are rough. Clean the end of the plug with a clean rag or paper towel-has a magnet on it.

Have yet to replace the crush washer either on my atf or oil drain plug and at 150K + and no leaks yet. Might replace both at 250K for the h of it.

kenbb

Here we go!. Honda dealer said after checking everything else that the noise at low acceleration is back engine mount by firewall. Cost of the part is $243 plus labor of 2.5 hrs. Said this mount was more expensive than the others. Diagnosis of the shudder\vibration was at first a bad torque converter when I called them in the morning. When I finally got there in person was told that the people that did my last tranny flush had over filled and probably not used Honda fluid. Dealer drained what they could and topped it off with Honda ATF. He said this could have caused the problem. Said they could not get the problem to come back in the shop after fixing the fluid. Could not take it out on the road to check due to ice storm today. Could this have caused those symptoms? They recommined a complete tranny flush if symptoms still there. They are a different bunch than others I dealt with before. Took a lot of time explaining and seemed to take the time to really try to check other things. I specifically asked them to check the EGR so I will have to assume they ruled this out. Looking at some pretty big numbers here for the mount and IF it is really a tranny problem. I know that I sure be more careful in the future about paying attention to who does what to my car cause I'm learning the hard way! Thanks a million for all of the assistance. Any further thoughts on my ever changing situation? I even had them check suspension . Negative results.

auburn63

When you can road test it and see if it is at all better. As for the engine mount they are expensive and can cause vibrations at idle if bad. Sounds as if they are better than what you have been getting. Did you get the ignition switch recall or the emissions update done? Good luck..

clint98v6at

Thanks to all for the responses to my ATF change questions. Now I should have everything I need to do the change in my garage next weekend. You've saved me a lot of time and money. Thank you!

gkolidas

My steering wheel vibrates when I stop at a light. This is primarily when it's in drive or reverse. AS others have stated, my dealer says that this is how 4 cylinder cars run. I know this wasn't true in my 2000 Accord. Honda will not let me contact the engineering department - they say you can only go through the dealer. Has anybody had any succes with this problem?

aming

Is your AC off? Turn all non esentials off. Eg. heated seats, fans, lights etc and see if it still vibrates.

good luck.

inspector3

aiming is rightabout turning off the air & accessories. Seems strange Honda does not want
to properly address this problem.

tracguy

What year is your Accord? Did you get auto dimming mirror installed at the dealer or DIY?

midwes1967

I am about to purchase a V6 EX sedan and I much prefer the 5 spoke machine finished alloy wheels vs. the standard 7 spoke alloy. Was anyone successful in trading out one set of rims for the other, or did anyone have to put up $$$ for the 5 spoke rims?

kenbb

Shudder still there. Get it pretty consistently if I take the car up and down between 1700-2000RPM on the road. Yesterday service manager said if it was EGR car should have idling problems. I'm not sure they did the check you recommended. They say Honda says do tranny flush, then new torque converter if not better. Does a flush make sense if the converter is really bad? Have they been a problem in 97 Accords? Could only get my car in half day yesterday due to weather. They didn't have time to get to any of the warranty stuff due to finding the bad motor mount and transmission problem. Think there is any chance I could get them to do the EGR work as part of that emissions warranty before going the converter route? If it is a bad converter am I doing more harm driving it? Do I sound psychotic. Really I am usually a calm family man. A million questions, none easy for you to answer over the net. Wish you were within driving distance I'd pay you double. Any other ideas on how I should approach this or should I just pay up .

mikek37

I have been experiencing the following problems:

A) Creaking noise that resonates from the driver side passenger window/ upper left windshield. The same noise is also heard on the passenger side window/ windshield. I browsed the forum and have heard this complaint from the following 03 Accord owners:

   Martylaw, Bultman2,Sharyl, Mings98,4ztc524 and maxhonda 99.

Wonder if any of you guys have had this problem solved? If so could you help me out.

Also, Ronsteve and Auburn it seems you were having troubles with your moonroof. I am experiencing a rattling/clacking noise also. Did you guys have any luck.

I appreciatte all your help guys!!!

auburn63

We have had no transmission issues for the 94-97 accords, however if it was the problem a flush may help. But I just have to wonder if they are checking out what you say about the EGR based on them saying if you had an EGR problem you would have an idle problem it tells me that they do not know about the issue. It is not the EGR valve,it is the EGR delivery, which is the ports in the intake manifold that distributes the gases back into the combustion chamber for each cyclynder. What usally happens is slowly over the years the ports begin to clog one at a time until just 1 or 2 are still open and all the gases are going into the #1 cylynder causing a misfire. The first we seen of this was years ago in the 90-93 Accords which had a service bulletin 98-074, which does not apply to your car but is the same general problem I believe your having. By disconnecting the EGR vacuum hose you are keeping it from opening when it should, so no gases are going into the manifold, which if this was the problem it would make your problem go away. If it is found to be the problem it can be repaired for free through the emission extension warranty.(have them refer to the september 2000 service news 2nd or 3rd page I believe)

auburn63

There has been a few problems with the windshield moldings making noise. To see if that is your noise take a piece of card board and stick it bettween the glass and the molding strip near the bottom and see if the noise goes away when you drive. Since you possibly hear this noise from both sides make sure to do both..let us know...
 As for the sunroof, the only noises are usally due to the sunroof gasket being dry, we lube them with Shin-Etsu greese and it seems to work..

kenbb

When you disconnect the EGR vacuum hose do you then need of plug it up with something before driving it? or just unplug it and drive?

kenbb

What I meant to say on that last post was: When you disconnect the EGR vacuum hose does the hose then need to be plugged up with something before driving the car? Or do you just disconnect and drive? If you can tell me which of these to do I'll find that sucker and do it myself! A semi-mechanic friend said if I do this procedure that he thought I would need to plug the vacuum hose with something but could not give me any idea of what to use. What say you?

ray_h71

Yes, kenbb, you'd definitely need to plug the loose end of that vacuum hose. Keep in mind that this procedure is NOT actually a fix - merely a diagnostic procedure. Once diagnosed, the carbonaceous crud blocking the EGR port(s) will have to be removed, and/or any defective EGR parts will have to be repaired or replaced.

rhard49

most common method I've seen used to plug it was to find a proper sized screw.

gregoryc1

How much mileage do you have on this Accord. I just picked up a 2003 4 cylinder Accord, and it had a slight vibration at a traffic light, once in a while. I use 92 octane fuel an an upper cylinder lubricant in the fuel,(4 ounces to each 10 gallons of fuel).(The owners manual states 87 octane or higher). The vehicle now has 1,500 miles and no vibration. I use Marvel Mystery Oil as an upper cylinder lubricant. YES, it is safe for oxygen sensors and the CAT. converter. I know this for a fact, because I contacted the company last year. I use this product in all my land and water based vehicles. I think what we are experienceing is possibly one of the fuel injectors sticking slightly. They need to break in, and the upper cylinder lubricant is giving them some lubrication.-----Just my opinion. ----Greg

mikek37

auburn63

You dont have to plug it for the diagnoses as when vacuum is present the car is off idle and will not notice the small leak. I always just unplug the EGR vacuum line and test, then re plug it back on and see if the problem comes back. If you want to plug it, golf tees work great as does anythinf that fits in...Good luck.

jrock80

#4383 of 4415 2003 Accord Coupe Seems Sluggish/Tired by lawgirl. I noticed the same exact thing with my car today! It really seemed like it had to work to get up to speed, I dont know what its problem is. It was running fine just the other day, then I took it into the dealer for service and now its very slow. It also seems that you have to press the accelerator down farther to get it to go.

josung

The owner's manual says that a blinking D4 light in the dashboard indicates a transmission problem. My 97 accord has a different problem. The D4 light doesn't light up when I shift into D4. Does anybody know if that means something other than a bad LED?

jfavour

My SRS sensor light is on in my 2000 LX-V6. The dealer said it is a faulty side airbag wiring harness in the column between the front and rear passenger side doors. They have to replace it. The estimated total repair came to approx. $1750. Before I could even comment, the service rep said he would ask for some "help" from Honda on the cost, as I haven't had any accidents and I am out of warranty (49,000 mi.) He called later and said Honda would pay 75% of the total. Does this all sound right? I am still on the hook for over $400, but am glad not to have to pay the whole bill. I love the car and am not bitter about this problem, as it doesn't affect the drivability, but I don't want be taken advantage of on the repair.

fritz1224

The light for the side air bag is not the same as the SRS light. The SRS light is for the dash mounted airbags. If the "Side Air Bag" dash light is on, then the side air bag will not deploy. Shortly after I bought my 2k LX v6, the SAB dash light would come on and off at mostly high humidity conditions. Took it to dealer and they got a code from the onboard computer, indicating a bad OPDS sensor(located in the front passenger seat). They had to remove the seatback cover(cloth) and replaced this sensor. It still comes on occassionally but not nearly as frequently. I can tolerate this, expecially since out of warranty and it's not that often. Did the dealer use his diagnostic tester and get a code? Do you trust this dealer? Do you really think Honda would be so gracious as to pitch in over $1300 on an out of warranty repair. My skeptical mind thinks the dealer will replace the sensor, tell you it was the harness, get your $400 which will cover the true repair and you'll leave feeling Honda's really a good joe. Whatever repair they do there will be some tell tale clues. After they're done Look closely at both the trim of the pillar and the seat back. Depending on the quality of their work, there will probably be something not lined up, replaced exactly right or loose. And of course, there's always the paper work they'll give you documenting the repair, but this could be bogus too.

jfavour

Thanks for the response. It is definitely the SRS light, not the SAB light. I have not checked to see if the SAB light still works by having my wife move around in the seat while the car is running. I will have to check that. The dealer did use the diagnostic tester and got a code (i could see the tech hook up to the car in the service bay as I waited). I trust the dealer somewhat, but have never had to do a major repair with a Honda (this is my 3rd), so with them it has usually been routine maintenance or warranty items.

fritz1224

I have a hard time understanding how the wiring harness for the SAB can cause the SRS light to come on. At the least I would think the SAB dash light would also be lit if the problem were with the SAB harness. I have looked in the owner's manual and on page 43 it does say this light will also alert you to problems with the side airbag cutoff system, so I suppose it could be so. Yes, do have your wife lean to the side and see if the "Side Airbag" light comes on. I would think that if the SRS light could indicate a problem with the SAB cutoff system, then the SAB light would not come on since the SRS light is indicating the cutoff system is supposedly malfunctioning.

ray_h71

Trust me - you don't want to take a chance on the front air bag(s) not deploying in an emergency. Those "damned" airbags saved my butt last November in my '96 Accord. I WAS wearing the shoulder harness, but the bag deployed and took a considerable hit from my equally considerable mass. I walked away without a scratch. The car was totaled. If you're concerned at all about your dealer attempting to defraud you or Honda, get a second opinion from another Honda dealer, first. But, get those airbags reliably operational! My own take is that your dealer went to bat for you with Honda and they're cutting you a break. It's probably rare that the wiring harness tanks, so they're offering what amounts to prorated financial compensation on the repair on a case-by-case basis to maintain customer loyalty. (I wonder what Ford's, G.M.'s or DaimlerChrysler's response would have been.)

mikek37

After reading through the wealth of knowledge on the board, I finally realized where the rattling noise in my car is coming from. Orginally I believed it was the moon roof, but after about a month of listening, I found out its coming from the head/roof liner right below the moonroof near the sunglasses holder. If I hold the headliner in place the noise will go away, let it go, it comes right back. Any ideas how to fix this? Thanks

lawgirl

That is exactly what I am experiencing, although mine hasn't been in for service except for a rattle. It takes longer to get up to speed, it's more noticeable when the car shifts gears (automatic), and I do have to press the accelerator down more than I did before. My engine also sounds louder when I rev it. A friend suggested using premium gas all the time, but that hasn't seemed to help. I want to take it to the dealer, but I'm not really sure how to describe the problem. I don't want to hear the same old "we don't notice anything." I'm also not sure if they will put it on the diagnostic computer despite being unable to notice anything for themselves. I still have my '91 4cyl Accord, and when I drive that, it seems to do better than my new Accord with double the horsepower. Obviously not acceptable!

If anybody had this problem and it was fixed, PLEASE tell us.

atlantabenny

Gasoline quality, and not only octane, affects engine performance. Having worked for an oil company, I'm aware of unethical trade practices where somewhere along the distribution chain, the gasoline is diluted so there is more profit made.

Have you been gassing up from the same gas station or randomly ? Patronize the store where your car performs best after an empty-to-full refueling. Chances are the gas quality will be consistent and so will be your car's performance.

If this isn't an issue, try to get the dealer to do a dynamometer test (power at the wheel is measured) to establish a "baseline" reference value when the car is running at its best. When it runs sluggish again, return to the dealer for another test. If you've been getting gas from the same source, the dealer will know that you've virtually eliminated gas quality as a cause and therefore the problem lies in the car.

auburn63

The side air bag system(yellow light) is the same and uses the same SRS control unit and harness as the dash. The side air badg light can flash for many reasons, small child,book bag, large sub sandwich, electrical devices such as cell phones, wet seat, ect...If it continues to go on and off it will set a code and turn on the SRS red warning light. Honda is gracious like that under 50,000 miles with safety issues and major expense issues. Good luck with your repair

auburn63

Can you get a piece of foam inbetween the headliner and roof? Maybe this will shim it out and add tension..