I just bought a used 1998 Accord EX. Are the parking lights sapose to blink when your either unlocking or locking with the Keyless Entry Remote. Because im having problems with it. Thanx
I checked my vin number and there are no recalls or safety issues. Yeah, I try to avoid the dealers at all costs. Now I just need to find a good mechanic in the Hartford, Ct area. About as hard as finding a good doctor. I love the car and don't anticipate many problems. At 57,000 I had the brakes done, flushed the radiator, changed the air filter a few times and the oil every 3-4000 miles. I will most likely need a battery soon and will get new tires before winter...all minor stuff. Is there anything that I may have missed at this point? This is a great forum! Greg
Yeah, it just takes some time, although I've found it to continue to improve even after 15k. I was getting (02 V6 coupe) about 20mpg for the first 5k miles, then it gradually went up about 1mpg per 5k miles, so that I'm routinely getting 25mpg (80/20 hway/city) after 30k miles.
Checked several times about my 03 LX V6. The mileage is about 23 in stop-and-go rush hour traffic. Got about 28 in a recent trip where most miles are on the high way. Have 2.5k right now. Interesting to see if it will improve as you described.
ranger96: Yes, the parking lights blink twice when you unlock the vehicle (four times if you press the unlock button twice to unlock all doors). They blink once when you press on the lock button. When you press the lock button twice, the car honks to confirm the doors are locked.
I have an 03 Accord EXL man. My brake rotors also warped, but my car has 15k miles on it. I tried to take it to the dealer to have them turned or replaced, but they told me that Honda doesn't cover any brake wear items past 12k miles. They tried to charge me $150 to resurface the rotors. I was pissed since I thought everything but the tires were covered to 36k. I wasn't willing to pay $150 and my friend told me that the rotors are pretty easy to remove, so I did it myself.
It was surprisingly easy. All you have to do is take off the wheel, remove 4 bolts holding the brake piston and caliper and 2 small screws holding the brake rotor on. I took the rotors to Kragen and they resurfaced both rotors for an even $20!
I put the rotors back on and put everything back together and sure enough, my steering jitter was gone.
If you suspect that your rotors are warped, don't wait as long as I did before you visit the dealer. If you're past the 12k point, consider doing it yourself.
I need your suggestion and advice. sorry in advance if I posted in the wrong discussion group. Thanks all.
I am currently in the process of moving out of state. The problem is thatI have 2 cars to move. One is the new accord and other one is 92 toyota corolla 4 dr sedan. The moving distance is about 800 miles, and don't want to spend the $$ to use car moving company. So I would like to know the following qestion. 1) is it possible to tow 92 corolla using the tow hitch and tow dolly? also generally who makes good tow hitch for accords?
I follow quite a few forums on this board and it appears that most domestic and foreign mid-size cars on these forums are having early rotor problems. Some can be explained by poor driving habits,torque spec and cold water on hot rotors, but quite a few others can't(if you believe what the posters are saying). I'm thinking the weight reduction (Cafe) programs at most factories are pushing the limit of the effective longevity of these components.
Quite a while ago, I used to work weekends and summers at my dad's service station and always looked forward to customers with the front disc brake jobs. I always found them to be much easier and quicker to repair than the shoe/drum systems.
Front disc brakes have been around for quite awhile (late 70's-80's???) and I don't remember hearing people complaining a lot back then. Maybe the professionals on this board can shed some insight.
Taking off the wheels wasn't too bad, although it probably took the longest. I only did the fronts, so I used two jack stands and a hydraulic floor jack to lift the car.
I used a torque wrench to put all of the bolts back on. 80ftlb for the wheel lug nuts and 40ftlb for the brake bolts. I hand tightened the two philips screws holding the brakes in place.
Thanks for the tip Rogcheng. I have an 03 EX coupe and I'm getting pulsing of the brake pedal when applying the brakes from above 40 MPH. I suspect warped rotors. I have 10K miles now. I'm making a dealer appointment tomorrow. This never happened on my 98 coupe.
I'm no professional mechanic, but I agree - my 1968 Ford Torino had front disk brakes, and all cars afterwards. And only in the last few years have I ever heard of warped rotors within a few thousand miles.
I know, abuse could cause some of them. But I would think that someone that would 'ride' the brakes or make severe panic stops or drive so aggressively that the brakes heat up and fade - I would think there should be brake pad problems before they should be rotor warping problems.
We've had fools with overpowered air wrenches for many years. But my personal opinion is that with normal brake usage, water hitting the rotor should not cause warping. If it does, then this is a design problem and should be corrected.....
P.S. I've driven a Cad Seville just off a 3 year lease with just over 6,000 miles (why did this person even need a car??? But the car had excessive brake shimmy, indicating rotor problems. What could cause this????? Maybe seldom driving the car, and it was from a northern city with salted winter streets, cause the slides on the calipers to bind up???? But something seems to still be built weak to have this problem with this low milage.....
Based on ownership of 4 Hondas and 1 Toyota since 1997, it appears Honda has had weaker rotors/brake systems. Of the 4 Hondas, 3 needed/will need (wife's 03 Accord is already pulsing at 6k miles) resurfacing. The 2000 Solara at 34k had no hint of rotor warp.
Anyone with metallurgy knowledge care to comment ?
When my car has been sitting in the heat, the doors automatically lock without me hitting the button on the door or the remote. I have a hard time getting in my car because the door locks before I can open it. I have to hold the remote right next to the door and pull the door within a second or it is locked. One time I left the car running and the doors locked. I called the dealer and they were not familiar with this problem? Anybody have this problem?
I just bought a '91 Accord LX Coupe 5-speed. There are a few things concerning me a little, and I was wondering if any mechanically inclined posters could provide pointers. Thanks.
1. Maybe 70% of the time when I push in the clutch, I can hear a quick "whisp" (psssht) sound, almost hydraulic-leak-like in nature. What might this be?
2. When I start the car, it starts very quickly and a bit dramatically. Not violently, but not at all like my '00 Accord. Anything to be concerned about?
3. When I go over speed bumps, there is one back forth rocking of the body on the suspension (i.e., not rocking front to back several times, but once. I also noticed that me shifting weight in the car easily rocks the car a bit. What might be the cause?
4. Finally, what does it take to convert an older car to using the current AC stuff? (R134a?)
Brakes have in recent years been Hondas failing. My 03 Accord EX-V needed rotors turned at 8k. fourth accord and first real stupid bad engineering problem. This is not a fluke as dealer did do all work under less than 12k adjustment warranty. I wonder how long they will last? I did not miss my 3.2 TL at first but now I am starting to wonder. Otherwise, car problems are stupid temperature gage (always high) and what I call loose steering--floaty buicky.
While the steering is not BMW razor-sharp, I wouldn't call it Buick-like. It's the Camry's job to float like a Buick. I'd have to say the steering is over-boosted, but still precise. The tires get the blame for lack of tenacity. The TSX gets raves about its handling, yet it has the same underpinning as the Accord.
IF you have those won't stick to anything Michelin Energy Tires on your 03-this could contribute to the floaty buick like steering-how I do hate that out of control gotta herd it steering. Where it really counts is in rain or snow-floaty steering will get you in a ditch-if it is a honda problem-hope they fix it with the next model year.
I think this warped rotor problem is a general problem due to faulty design after reading so many postings about it.
I believe filing complaint against Honda will help. With large number of such instances, NHTSA may look into the issue and may either ask for a recall from Honda or at least have the problems repaired for free.
The low tenacity Michelin tires can actually be fun and safer at the same time when pushed to the limit. You see, a 4-wheel drift is safer at low speed.
I don't think inky is that much off the mark. Lots of CL owners (including me) have complained about the steering feeling "loose", needing constant minute corrections, at city speeds. It does feel "tighter" at highway speeds though.
That is wild! I've never heard of that problem. To open the door you'd have to make like quickdraw McGraw! The Accord does have a passive locking/auto re-lock function. Somehow the heat must be making the electronic brain batty.
"Lots of CL owners (including me) have complained about the steering feeling "loose", needing constant minute corrections"
The CL and the Accord though similar are slightly different but that is probably splitting hairs.
I would characterize the steering as light not loose. The slightest change in the direction of the wheel and the vehicle will move off straight and center of the road. This is vastly different that a Ford F150 and Toyota Avalon that I have owned that both had 2" of play in either direction of the steering wheel without making a difference to the way the vehicle tracked.
My wife and I own a 98 Accord EX-V6 that has developed a transmission problem. Unfortunately for us the car has 93,000 miles on it and it outside the warrant by and ton. The dealer tried to flush the trany but it still slips and shifts abruptly under acceleration. I contacted American Honda and they told me that they were not willing to provide us with any assistance. I realize the car has lots of miles on it, but we are long time Honda owners (this is our 5 since 1987) and I was hoping for some help. The car was bought and services at a Honda dealer. In addition, Honda increased the warranty on 00 and 01 to 7years 100,000 miles but they are unwilling to do anything for us. I was not looking for them to front the entire cost of a new trany, $5,200, but some assistance would have been nice. This problem is more common than I thought. If anyone else has experience trany problems please let me know. But beware if you are buying a used one as the problems are more common than I thought. We are long time loyal Honda owners but I guess Honda sells all the cars it can make so why help us.
I have an 03 EX V6 with about 300 miles on it and every time I start the car in the morning and put it into drive, there is a fairly noticeable "clunk" sound about 5 seconds or so after I take off. The sound is coming from the front of the car, and only happens when the car has been sitting for a while and is cold. Has anyone else had this happen, and if so is it a defect? Thanks.
My 92 accord make a continuous knuckling clunking sound from the right front wheel (i think) when i am slowly accelerating and turning left(ie from a stop sign). Doesnt make the noise when coasting and turning left or right. Any ideas? 92 accord lx auto. Thanks
Thanks rocheng for the heads up. I'm pushing 10K now and guess I'll have to set aside some time to bring it in. This is my fourth accord and only had the rotors wrap on my '98 at around 70K. My driving style has not changed over the years so I know that is not the issue.
Take a look at post#4676. I would definitely try the factory again. I can see that your nearing the end of the mileage warranty that we 00/01 owners got, but this problem occurred in all 6th gen years. Maybe persistance will pay off.
If you search "transmission" in this forum, you will see quite a few non-2000/01 accords with tranny problems.
92 accord noise when turning left accelerating. by venanzik Jul 15, 2003 (5:01 pm) My 92 accord make a continuous knuckling clunking sound from the right front wheel (i think) when i am slowly accelerating and turning left(ie from a stop sign).
... This could be related to CV joints, have them checked out, could be time to replace them. Good luck
I took my mom's Accord in to have the wind noise in the driver window and rattles from the driver-side back window looked at. After 2.5 hours of waiting, I was told they have ordered new "run channels" for the windows. Hopefully, they will fix the problems. Other than these minor problems, the car runs flawlessly.
While hanging around the showroom, I took a look at the coupe, and found the lack of side protective molding and small windows really bugged me. The door handles bothered me as well. Why would the leave out something as useful as the side molding?
If it is not too late the clutch sound maybe normal but if you suspect a leak the most likely place would be on the inside of the car at the pedals push rod for the master. Check there for a fluid leak goingg down on the inside firewall. As for the quick start I dont think this is anything to worry about The extra bounce could be a braoken front coil spring which we see alot of now a days in those as they get old or a worn strut. Check it out it is easy to spot a break or leak at the strut. As for the AC retro it is easy and worth it I have done it to both of my 92 accords...Sorry for the delay I have had alot of softball games to all hours of the night lately...
Definitly sounds as if you have a bad right outer cv joint....Unless it has been re-booted you will probably find the boot cut open and no greese left in it..
I sympathize as I own a 98 exv6. My tranny went out at 9K miles while under warranty; it took 2 tranny swaps to fix it. It seems silly that Honda won't give you the extended tranny warranty for you 98. My overall confidence in the people who run Honda and their dealerships keeps falling.
Just look at Edmunds long-term test where a Honda dealer tried to charge Edmunds for a check engine diagnostic while under warranty!
Hi members. I'm new in this post by the way this is my first posting here. I'm the happy owner of a 03 Accord coupe EX-L 5sp MT. I took possession of this vehicle on July 08, 03. I had to wait for this vehicle exactly two LONG months. It was very difficult to find this vehicle on this trim, color and transmission. I've been searching this board for months prior to make a decision for this vehicle. In reality I wanted to buy a New Honda, my first after listening my co-workers and friends talking about the excellence of this vehicle. Let me tell you, I'm amazed with this car. I love everything on it. At the beginning I was looking for a coupe 6th generation but with the specifications that I wanted it was impossible to find. My new accord is in Taffeta white, I added the rear spoiler and the fog lights I took delivery of the car with two miles on it. Today has only 84 miles. I use it for pleasure as second car, so I don't drive it to much. I work the graveyard shift, so I only do 12 miles daily for 5 days/week and I used my primary car to do this. I ordered a lot of accessories from Handa.com, such as, body side trim, moonroof visor, exhaust tip, birds eye trim, cargo tray, mud guards,door visors and doors guards, I'm still waiting for them, but I would like to see how its looks after I put them on. I bought the car in Hollywood FL. I got it for $100.00 under invoice + TT L. I'm still learning all the features on this car. But so far is a marvellous driving experience. I sold my baby a 1992 Mitsubihi Eclipse GS 5sp with 72,000 miles on the clock and in pristine conditions to buy this Accord and WOW, what a difference! I'm sorry for the long of my post but I wanted to share my experience with all of you.
Well, my 03EXV6 Sedan got its first little dent/chip on the rear drivers side door. (It hurts)!. Anyway, first off, the paint really chipped, and I touched it up with a little paint, but I was wondering can the dealer fix it without repainting the entire door. The spot is only about the size of a pea, but my eye sorta just goes right to that spot. Do you think they have a guy in their shop that repairs little dings like this ? Any reply will be appreciated. Thanks
My car has run about 5K miles so far, recently it has one more problem I would share with this board. Its engine knocks when the car accelerates from 40 mph to 60 mph slowly with the A/C truning ON. I asked the dealer to check with this problem, they insist they could not find the problem, but they suggest I use 93 gas to see if the problem goes away. In other words, they know this problem but do not want to admit.
I read a article when this model of Accord was released, Honda claim because its engine uses 64-bit computer and multiple knocking sensors, this V6 can still use 87 gas even this engine has relatively high compression ratio. I aslo notice that the similar but not the same engine used in Acura TL, which is 3.2 liters, requires to use 93 gasoline.
Anyone with his or her thought on this, please post. By the way, I will try to use 93 gas this weeken and see the problem goes away. And my Honda dealer admits that the wind noise for 2003 Accord is louder than the old Accord because the design of the window is differnt.
interesting.. I remember that I read the owner's manual or Honda's web site, and it says the windows are redesigned so that the wind noise is less than previous model.
Here is why Honda claims the wind noise is better than old models:
After years of hearing the loud wind noise in earlier models, Honda test engineers have suffered from hearing problem. Finally they think they made a honda which is quieter!
This is probably a silly question but here goes... On the Honda V6 engines (including the 3.2l and 3.5l) when the timing belt or any of the other drive belts are replaced, does the oil pan have to be removed and the oil drained? Thanks.
My 03 LX V6 shifts gently when I apply the gas slowly (around 1500 RPM). But when I pump the gas pedal all the way to 3000 RPM, I feel the shift is jerky. When the car is cold, the first shift is always jumpy. Anyone has similar problem?
Don't know why this Honda dealer is not honoring their 100K warrnaty. I had extensive work done on my emissions control system which was covered by a 150K warranty with less than five hundred miles left on the warranty. First I would suggest you try another dealer. Typically small town dealers are a whole lot better to deal with than their big city counterparts.
Let us know how u come out.
IF no luck at all-would suggest getting someone who knows honda trannies to rebuild-got a quote from a local tranny guy who knows his stuff to rebuild replacing all "soft" parts including clutches, some bearings and the speed sensors for under $1,500. Don't touch the franchise places-they don't know squat and are well to be avoided.
There maybe something wrong with the window seal if you hear wind noise. My mom's car gets wind noise on the driver side but not the passenger side. After taking the car in, the dealer ordered new run channels for the wind noise and rattling problems.
I put a scratch in my 03 EX-L sedan about a month or two after I took delivery. I did it myself with the metal tip of my hose while washing the car! Anyway it was a scratch about an inch long on the forward aspect of the fender flare on the driver's side, through the clear coat. I took the car to the dealer and told them what happened (Leith Honda in Raleigh, NC). They have a detailing guy who comes to the dealership a couple of days a week and he was able to sand the scratch out of the clear coat. He also needed to spray a little paint in one small area. Anyway, he only asked for $5 and did the repair while I waited. I can't even tell where the scratch was any more and I am very meticulous about the upkeep on my new baby. This is something I would not recommend doing by yourself unless you have experience - there is a definite art to what he did. BTW - he did mention that the metallic paints (I have the desert mist) are a lot harder to color match that the flat colors. Hope this helps.
Comments
Also, what about your tranny fluid?
For replacement tire comments, the following is a very informative forum.
"Tires, tires, tires" Jul 7, 2003 6:26pm
It was surprisingly easy. All you have to do is take off the wheel, remove 4 bolts holding the brake piston and caliper and 2 small screws holding the brake rotor on. I took the rotors to Kragen and they resurfaced both rotors for an even $20!
I put the rotors back on and put everything back together and sure enough, my steering jitter was gone.
If you suspect that your rotors are warped, don't wait as long as I did before you visit the dealer. If you're past the 12k point, consider doing it yourself.
I need your suggestion and advice. sorry in advance if I posted in the wrong discussion group. Thanks all.
I am currently in the process of moving out of state. The problem is thatI have 2 cars to move. One is the new accord and other one is 92 toyota corolla 4 dr sedan. The moving distance is about 800 miles, and don't want to spend the $$ to use car moving company. So I would like to know the following qestion.
1) is it possible to tow 92 corolla using the tow hitch and tow dolly? also generally who makes good tow hitch for accords?
2) would you recommend it and why?
test007
Quite a while ago, I used to work weekends and summers at my dad's service station and always looked forward to customers with the front disc brake jobs. I always found them to be much easier and quicker to repair than the shoe/drum systems.
Front disc brakes have been around for quite awhile (late 70's-80's???) and I don't remember hearing people complaining a lot back then. Maybe the professionals on this board can shed some insight.
What do you guys and gals think?
I used a torque wrench to put all of the bolts back on. 80ftlb for the wheel lug nuts and 40ftlb for the brake bolts. I hand tightened the two philips screws holding the brakes in place.
I'm no professional mechanic, but I agree - my 1968 Ford Torino had front disk brakes, and all cars afterwards. And only in the last few years have I ever heard of warped rotors within a few thousand miles.
I know, abuse could cause some of them. But I would think that someone that would 'ride' the brakes or make severe panic stops or drive so aggressively that the brakes heat up and fade - I would think there should be brake pad problems before they should be rotor warping problems.
We've had fools with overpowered air wrenches for many years. But my personal opinion is that with normal brake usage, water hitting the rotor should not cause warping. If it does, then this is a design problem and should be corrected.....
P.S. I've driven a Cad Seville just off a 3 year lease with just over 6,000 miles (why did this person even need a car??? But the car had excessive brake shimmy, indicating rotor problems. What could cause this????? Maybe seldom driving the car, and it was from a northern city with salted winter streets, cause the slides on the calipers to bind up???? But something seems to still be built weak to have this problem with this low milage.....
Anyone with metallurgy knowledge care to comment ?
1. Maybe 70% of the time when I push in the clutch, I can hear a quick "whisp" (psssht) sound, almost hydraulic-leak-like in nature. What might this be?
2. When I start the car, it starts very quickly and a bit dramatically. Not violently, but not at all like my '00 Accord. Anything to be concerned about?
3. When I go over speed bumps, there is one back forth rocking of the body on the suspension (i.e., not rocking front to back several times, but once. I also noticed that me shifting weight in the car easily rocks the car a bit. What might be the cause?
4. Finally, what does it take to convert an older car to using the current AC stuff? (R134a?)
My 03 Accord EX-V needed rotors turned at 8k. fourth accord and first real stupid bad engineering problem. This is not a fluke as dealer did do all work under less than 12k adjustment warranty. I wonder how long they will last? I did not miss my 3.2 TL at first but now I am starting to wonder. Otherwise, car problems are stupid temperature gage (always high) and what I call loose steering--floaty buicky.
INKY
I believe filing complaint against Honda will help. With large number of such instances, NHTSA may look into the issue and may either ask for a recall from Honda or at least have the problems repaired for free.
The CL and the Accord though similar are slightly different but that is probably splitting hairs.
I would characterize the steering as light not loose. The slightest change in the direction of the wheel and the vehicle will move off straight and center of the road. This is vastly different that a Ford F150 and Toyota Avalon that I have owned that both had 2" of play in either direction of the steering wheel without making a difference to the way the vehicle tracked.
If you search "transmission" in this forum, you will see quite a few non-2000/01 accords with tranny problems.
Hmmm.
My 92 accord make a continuous knuckling clunking sound from the right front wheel (i think) when i am slowly accelerating and turning left(ie from a stop sign).
... This could be related to CV joints, have them checked out, could be time to replace them. Good luck
While hanging around the showroom, I took a look at the coupe, and found the lack of side protective molding and small windows really bugged me. The door handles bothered me as well. Why would the leave out something as useful as the side molding?
As for the quick start I dont think this is anything to worry about
The extra bounce could be a braoken front coil spring which we see alot of now a days in those as they get old or a worn strut. Check it out it is easy to spot a break or leak at the strut.
As for the AC retro it is easy and worth it I have done it to both of my 92 accords...Sorry for the delay I have had alot of softball games to all hours of the night lately...
Just look at Edmunds long-term test where a Honda dealer tried to charge Edmunds for a check engine diagnostic while under warranty!
I took delivery of the car with two miles on it. Today has only 84 miles. I use it for pleasure as second car, so I don't drive it to much. I work the graveyard shift, so I only do 12 miles daily for 5 days/week and I used my primary car to do this. I ordered a lot of accessories from Handa.com, such as, body side trim, moonroof visor, exhaust tip, birds eye trim, cargo tray, mud guards,door visors and doors guards, I'm still waiting for them, but I would like to see how its looks after I put them on. I bought the car in Hollywood FL. I got it for $100.00 under invoice + TT L. I'm still learning all the features on this car. But so far is a marvellous driving experience. I sold my baby a 1992 Mitsubihi Eclipse GS 5sp with 72,000 miles on the clock and in pristine conditions to buy this Accord and WOW, what a difference! I'm sorry for the long of my post but I wanted to share my experience with all of you.
I read a article when this model of Accord was released, Honda claim because its engine uses 64-bit computer and multiple knocking sensors, this V6 can still use 87 gas even this engine has relatively high compression ratio. I aslo notice that the similar but not the same engine used in Acura TL, which is 3.2 liters, requires to use 93 gasoline.
Anyone with his or her thought on this, please post. By the way, I will try to use 93 gas this weeken and see the problem goes away. And my Honda dealer admits that the wind noise for 2003 Accord is louder than the old Accord because the design of the window is differnt.
After years of hearing the loud wind noise in earlier models, Honda test engineers have suffered from hearing problem. Finally they think they made a honda which is quieter!
Have fun guys.
On the Honda V6 engines (including the 3.2l and 3.5l) when the timing belt or any of the other drive belts are replaced, does the oil pan have to be removed and the oil drained? Thanks.
Thanks.
Let us know how u come out.
IF no luck at all-would suggest getting someone who knows honda trannies to rebuild-got a quote from a local tranny guy who knows his stuff to rebuild replacing all "soft" parts including clutches, some bearings and the speed sensors for under $1,500. Don't touch the franchise places-they don't know squat and are well to be avoided.
Let us know how u come out.
I put a scratch in my 03 EX-L sedan about a month or two after I took delivery. I did it myself with the metal tip of my hose while washing the car! Anyway it was a scratch about an inch long on the forward aspect of the fender flare on the driver's side, through the clear coat. I took the car to the dealer and told them what happened (Leith Honda in Raleigh, NC). They have a detailing guy who comes to the dealership a couple of days a week and he was able to sand the scratch out of the clear coat. He also needed to spray a little paint in one small area. Anyway, he only asked for $5 and did the repair while I waited. I can't even tell where the scratch was any more and I am very meticulous about the upkeep on my new baby. This is something I would not recommend doing by yourself unless you have experience - there is a definite art to what he did. BTW - he did mention that the metallic paints (I have the desert mist) are a lot harder to color match that the flat colors. Hope this helps.
Matt