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Comments
My front passenger window makes a rattling noise when going over even the slightest bumps in the road. This only happens when the window is all the way up. If the window is down, even a littly bit, the noise is not present. How do I fix this?
Also, when I turn on the AC the compressor(I think) makes a louder than normal clunk noise. What I mean by this is I've never owned a car that made such a loud noise when turning on the AC, especially one this new. The noise is short lived, like 1 second.
thanks!
As for the AC, mine does the same thing, I believe its a normal sound.
My 03 LX V6 has the same problem every time I turn on the AC. Even while I cruise on the highway around 70 and I turn on the AC, Pang there it goes and I feel the car shake a bit. Very annoying. Make me feel the car is lacking power for both the driving and the AC. But V6 is supposed to be more than enough.
Thanks for the reply. I was told by the dealer that semi-metallic bads are used by Honda, and they are supposed to squeak, but when they get hot, it will disappear. Indeed the noise will disappear after several brakings (at least I do not hear it, but it may be after that I am on the highway!).
Don't know if the dealer is being honest to me.
2003 Accord 4-Door – From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A054708
2003 Accord 2-Door – From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A014092. Good luck
by the way close but not close enough for doughnuts to be dropped off, I work in New Jersey but thanks for the thought
It doesn't really bother me that much to be honest. As long as the car drives well and is reliable, a few squeaks here or there won't drive me crazy. If it were happening all the time it would bother me, but this mainly occurs only on really rough roads which I try to avoid anyway. I'm planning on 150K miles plus out of this car anyway, so I'm sure other noises are on the way!
Thanks a lot for the advice. I really appreciate it. Have a great weekend.
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"What causes brake squeal?
All four brakes have audible brake wear indicators. When the brake pads need replacing, you will hear a distinctive metallic "screeching" sound when you apply the brakes. If you do not have the brake pads replaced, they will begin screeching all the time.
Your brakes may sometimes squeal or squeak when you apply them lightly. Do not confuse this with the brake wear indicators. They make a very audible "screeching."
Occasional noise can be caused by the light application of brakes for a prolonged distance before stopping, or from high relative humidity. These are normally temporary and are considered normal brake noises not requiring repair."
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If you go to https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com you can register your vehicle and view tips on caring for your Honda. You can also pay your bill on line this way. Pretty cool website.
The dealer did that fix, but it made no difference.
Driving me batty...
Also, does anyone else have a musty smell come from the vents "after" using the climate control and then switching to just air circulation via the fan?
Thanks,
I also get the musty smell but I bet that is a normal thing with a/c
Anyways, to cut the long story short: Anybody know what could be wrong with the emissions (what might have gone bad), or what stuff they might have to fix assuming its the emissions thats gone whacky??? Or any thing else that I ought to look into other than the emissions and what I checked?? Any input, suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
*** 1997 Honda Accord Ex, w/ 85 K miles ****
The window problem is a FLAW and I have been going through the paces trying to solve the problem with my dealer. I bought the dealer-installed option of tinted windows, and the dealer has re-tinted them through a local shop they contract with. I've had the DRIVER's windows retinted 4 times, and the window gaskets replaced twice.
I still get SCRATCHES in the window tint, vertically, about 8 inches in length and four inches aft of the leading edge of the window glass. These tend to appear closer to the top of the window glass. It may have been resolved this last trip to the dealer, but I got deployed to the desert and haven't made it home to use the window much yet and see if the problem has stopped.
I'm on the verge of demanding another door, as I really want the window tint but it keeps on getting scraped. It will either come down getting rid of the window tint (money back) or replacing the door.
2003 Accord LX Sedan with 8000 miles.
Now, at about 6000 miles, the brakes are beginning to shudder when applied at speeds over 65 mph or so. I will have to confirm the problem with the dealer, but it appears that the rotors are at fault. I may have to reacquaint myself with my representative at Honda Customer Service.
Other than that, the only other problems are the rattles mentioned elsewhere, very hot key, and out-of-whack thermometer. I can live with all of those, but not with perpetually failing rotors.
I noticed several complaints on the NHTSA site for malfunctioning or nonfunctioning airbags. That's pretty scary. Here's hoping mine are never tested.
The car is very fun to drive, and passengers love it, too. I hope that Honda can resolve these issues in the near future, before the ownership experience is soured.
BTW, what's a HDS tester?
My guess is that the wiring is messed up. In the countries where they drive on the left side, the driver is on the right side and the passenger sensor is on the left side. If the engineers did not rewire the sensor to read the passenger seat (right side in US) sensor to send signal to passenger air bag (right side in US), then it would explain why passenger bag deployed and driver's did not. The system read that the "driver's" seat (right side) was occoupied and deployed "driver's" airbag (right side). The systems still "thinks" that it is being operated in Japan/UK/Australia/India/South Africa ect.
I wonder if people who had passengers in the front seat had both airbags deploy?
If the theory is true, I think someone is about to be fired at Honda. Honda would have to recall ALL of the Left hand driver Accords and replace the SRS wiring harness or re-program the SRS computer.
winbro: I normally tighten my gas cap till it makes the clicking sound (3, 4 times maybe). I believe I did the same that day too, and after the check light came on I opened and tightened again to make sure. Anyways, will post after Thursday once I have the car checked out.
Thanks again.
One time only.
Being pointed downhill and/or rolling forward exacerbate the noise.
Anyone else in this discussion also find that your car does not upshift properly when going downhill?
Did they give you a car to drive?
if anybody has an idea please reply
thx
Clearing out the code takes maybe 15 seconds-on my 97 I just pull out the ecm/PCM fuse-#39 in the corner for 10 seconds and the code is gone-if the dealer is charging 95 to just reset this thing-he is a crook. Mine only charges 65 to read the code including doing the reset-course autozone does it for free.
I have a manual with the key to the code numbers-Auburn63 can put meaning to those codes so let us know what the code numbers are-hopefully no tranny damage.
Does this mean you had one of those machines hooked up to your tranny that "flushes" your tranny with a solvent before replacing the fluid. Was this a independent shop or honda dealer-what tranny fluid did they use-Honda ATF I hope.
IMHO those tranny flush systems can cause big problems if they leave any of the "solvent" in the tranny. Had a CEL code on mine-turned out to be a countershaft speed sensor in the tranny had gone out of tolerance-I "flushed" my tranny anyway with 2 complete changes of Honda ATF with a 50 mile trip between changes.
Anybody else got any concerns about tranny flushes using a solvent?
Also it is possible to disconnect the line running from the ATF cooling coil-connect it to a large jug and while letting the engine idle-let the "used" atf drain into a large clear jug while adding an equal amount of atf at the same time thru the "check" dip stick hole. Sounds like a chinese fire drill but some shops do this instead of using a "flushing" machine.
Let us know-this is interesting and hope it all works out without a hit to the bank account.
1. P0300 - random cylinder misfired
2. P0304 - cylinder 4 misfired
3. P0306 - cylinder 6 misfired
4. P1399 - unknown / manufacturer specific
The transmission flush was done in Jiffy Lube and it was done not long before we hit the road. According to them it was a FULL flush and cost me around $100. I don't know if any solvent was used.
Can anyone interpret the codes for me? Could this be fuel related? While on vacation my 98 LX-V6 Accord lived quite random fueling life. At home I usually fuel it in same place.
As I mentioned earlier the Check Engine started flashing on a highway and the tachometer was showing 4000rpm on 80mph. I am not sure if the Drive Shift was in the right position (D4) or I accidentally shifted it down to D3. I pulled over and found nothing. I was on the road in 5 minutes and the tachometer was back to normal 2600rpm. The Check Engine light stopped flashing but was and is still on.
How can I reset the OBD computer? I have tried to pull out ECU (ECM/PCM) fuse for a minute or so but it didn't clear the Engine Check light. I did it with the engine shut down. Thanks.
No info on code 1339. I would call jiffy lube immediately and find out what kind of atf they used-if anything else other than honda ATF-drain it out immediately and replace it with honda atf-drive 50 miles and do it again and then maybe a third time. I would bet those people used their standard generic atf which will harm your tranny.
Would not drive any more than necessary till u get the tranny fluid changed. It is easy to do yourself-change it when it is hot-be careful it will burn you-the drain plug is on the bottom of the tranny on the passenger side. The atf is refilled thru the check hole-the yellow handled thingy on the front of the tranny on the passenger side forward of the tranny.
Let us know how what you find.
However, I back out of my garage and pump the brakes many times before putting it into drive at the bottom of the driveway and it still happens, even if my foot is on the brake when I shift. It is like one second after I move the shifter you hear this cah-click. I have noticed that it goes away sometimes when it has been driven for some time....but not always.
Also, you can repeat it several times at once, which means the calipers "wake up" many times in one morning??Like a snooze button maybe?? hehe.
Once when facing uphill on the driveway I also noticed the tranny was making louder than usual noises when I went from park to drive to park to drive....all with the brake engaged....it was like clink clank into and out of gear. Never happened again.
As for the trans thing, it really sounds as if the car was in D3 or D2 and that the catalytic converter was overheating which is what causes the light to flash. That in itself could have caused a misfire. Which is why you should clear them and see if it returns...Good luck
It just slipped my mind that the OBD tool the guy in Autozone used can also clear the Check Engine light. That is why I didn't ask them to do so.
My first car was new Toyota Corolla. My wife is driving it now. I bought Honda Accord when it was already 3-4 years old and all these self-repair issues are kind of new to me. But that is OK. I am a fast learner and it saves a lot to buy an older car. With 2 kids and a house I find it very helpful.
It makes little sense that brakes would emit a mechnical clanking noise. Metal does not hit metal. My prior 2 Accords (stick shift, no ABS) and my other's CRV (same engine, tranny and ABS) were/are silent.
There is a Q.A. or build problem here, I think.
These are the codes they told me they pulled out for the engine check light:
P0740
P0700
They told me the water pump is leaking??? and the transmission solinoids are bad.
About $300 for the trans solinoids
About $450-500 for the water pump including timing belt.. plus tax.
=>I actually haven't noticed any decrease in coolant or any visible leaks... Service advisor told me that the leak is not bad but to keep an eye on it... offcourse my timing belt change is approaching, so I decided that can wait anyways.
Auburn63: what do you think about those codes, meaning etc.. maybe you can elaborate better.. anybody???
I was thinking of getting my tranny fluid flushed and refilled before doing anything first. Haven't done that since I bought the car in 1999.
So far I've driven the car about 35 miles w/out the check light coming on.
*** 1997 Honda Accord EX sedan, w/ 85,7xx miles ***
My Driver Side (L/F)Power Window Regulator also went bad on me last week... Window got stuck almost half way.. started with grinding noise coming down & up to a certain point then just stuck and wouldn't budge.
It had been coming anyways... usually was slow going up especially on cold temp days.. but a little silicon spray made it better for a little while (since May).. well, until last week.
Anyways, removed the window regulator opened the motor thing. The cable that pulls it up was frayed and spliced in places and got jammed.
Ordered another Regulator, waiting to receive the shipment. Hope my Window Switch isn't messed up too. Will find out soon ;-)
Anyway, accex18, I don't think installing the Regulator is difficult, just do the opposite of what you did removing... taking care not to break the window when putting it back...
I had to cut off the frayed part of my regulator and put it back together in order to have the window up before getting the new one.. and it wasn't difficult putting the regulator back on.
Good Luck on Yours.
** 1997 Honda Accord Ex, 85k Miles ***