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Since I've had the car, I haven't had any accidents, did some search's prior to purchase for prior accidents, none showed up. So warranty shouldn't be void yet, according to me.
I had the first part of the emissions warranty done at 61,6xx miles (involved inspection of the emissions control system).
Haven't had the 2nd part done (the one between 75,000 to 150,000 miles). Dealer actually charged me $43.52 for Diagnostics and clearing the code. Told me to fix the solinoids isn't covered by warranty???...
Don't know much about what's really involved in emissions yet, so I just "swallowed" his words!!
Yes, you can e-mail me the vin at auburn63@comcast.net , chances are that since you had the first part of the extension your warranty is good or they wouldnt have been able to do it. For some reason some people just either arent informed correctly of their jobs or they just try and take advantage. I dont know which but I dont think either is a good excuse. The warranty extension covers all that is on its covered parts list at the back of the bulletin and it clearly shows 223506 which is the warranty code for trans code retrieval and under that is all the solenoids with their own codes. So just call them back and have them check and also dont forget about the refund for the money they charged you. Good luck
we had several problems with them and most of the time it was the auto seat belt not retracting all the way back or the gasket getting stuck and not allowing the buckle to hit the switch. If the gasket is tore or split chances are that is the problem, other than that the door latch switch sometimes goes bad. Usally you can slam the door to jar it and confirm it if that is it..without disabling this system there isnt really much else you can do.
Manual 2 door, passive
In this system you can usally unplug the display to rid your noise but if that doesnt work find and unplug the control unit. Usally located under the passenger seat but I can check on tuesday if you let me know how many doors and 3 point passive or automatic....
Does anyone know what this might be?
Thanks
gte727h
Are you possibly talking about the clicking for the shift release? Every time you press on the brake there is a little click that is a solenoid unlocking the shifter.
bjvjs
Since it sounds like it was fine until you replaced the plugs did you use the same plugs or a different brand? Were they gaped correctly? Other than that sometimes fuel injectors leak down over night or after sitting for a while and can cause your condition also..amoung a few other things but those two are the most common...
It might be the solenoid (thanks for giving me something to look into), but should that be audible? It wasn't for the first 1,600 miles (I'm at 2,300 nwo). It does remind me of something electrical; the noise is almost identical to the clicking sound you hear when your turn signal is on (or at least the first half sec of one click). It's consistent now and doesn't seem to affect performance. I just think it's supposed to be inaudible and wonder why it's not.
Thanks
gte727h
It does seem as if that is what you are talking about and yes it is normal to be able to hear it as it will cause no problems..
So I made an app't for that & the rattle in the moonroof. However, we went to a big flea market yesterday, taking another highway. this time the Accord drove so straight & smooth with NO pull at all. I will keep the App't tomorrow as they will check tire balance, alignment etc. but in my case, It seems that the pulling is situational depending on the road.
It's an 03 4Cyl. When you put the car in D, with brakes engaged or not, you hear this cah-click one full second later. It is metallic in sound. Happens more often than not, and can happen multiple times in one ride, from store to store, or even if just shifting the gear in and out of park and drive in the garage. It does sometimes go away if the car has been driven for some time, but not always, though it quiets down at that point. It's like the timing you get when your car has automatic locks, you put the car in drive and like a second later the locks engage. Same type of timing and noise. Please, 03 Accord owners, do you have this same noise? Is yours whisper quiet when shifting into drive? Thank you.
I DO have the same transmission sound, but it is not terribly pronounced. However, what concerned me more and took some time to get used to was the caliper wake-up. That IS a real sound, and it is more like a loud single "CLACK". The difference is it will not happen over and over again on command. Caliper wake-up only happens (in my experience) after the car has been started cold. I was worried about it, but could tell it was the brakes, and before I even got the whole explanation out the service technician knew what I was talking about.
If you can sit and duplicate YOUR sound over and over with the shifter, and it's a pretty loud sound, then when you arrive at the dealership ask the tech to sit in your car with you while you duplicate the situation.
Hope this helps. I know how un-enjoyable it is to be wary of a new purchase like this.
Thanks
Dan
just trying to prepare in advance.
Thanks
Dan
They ranged from 20-42 mile distances and the prices ranged from $510-$640 for this service, with two of the nearest dealerships at $640. The Gulfport,Ms dealership (42 miles) not only had the lowest cost, but accepted my appointment on 1 days notice and completed the work in less than 3hours this morning while I waited.
For this maintenance, it definitely paid to shop around. I had to go 14 miles further than my selling dealership, but it was well worth the drive.
I'm curious how this compares with the cost of this service in other parts of the country for the 98-02 model years.
Other than brake pads shortly, I should be good for another 100K hopefully. This car continues to shine!!!!!!!
The quality of the parts makes a big difference both in initial cost and durability, at least that's what I hear.
this is the car that had the steering rack replaced at 500 miles, and an alignment. Now it has 1500 miles and now has this pulling problem.
I'e driven alot of cars and have never experienced this before. I tell you, i'm getting fed up with this Honda- lots of squeaks and rattles too. Wish i had never bought it!!
Anyone else have this pulling/acceleration problem?
That pull to the right is called torque steer. It is a problem that most high horsepower,high torque front wheel drive cars face especially when accelerating. The pull to the right when you have your foot off the gas might be an alignment issue or sometimes just the crown in the road is enough to drift to the right.
However, I haven't seen anyone else complaining of that problem so maybe there is something wrong with your car specifically. Torque steer is not a Honda problem normally. Nissan now that's anotther story. Honda Engineers have nearly eliminated torque steer in most of their cars.
What did you used to drive?
Steering rack replaced at 500 miles? WOW!
Sorry to hear about your Accord troubles, hopefully things smooth out soon.
My other current car is a 98 Subaru outback- I highly recommend it. the honda on the other hand I don't know.
i've owned Saabs, Chevys, Fords, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Subaru and others. I've never had any problems like I've had with this car. my old 1984 Saab 900 drove it to 200k miles with the original rotors, battery, pretty much nothing outside of maintenance. Now that was a reliable car, a tank. Finally got to rusty to drive and it was pretty slow. I don't don't like the GM era Saabs. Anyway- Not happy with my Honda at all so far. As far as I can see they are WAY over rated or maybe you gotta spend $40000 to get a decent car nowadays
Honda hasn't engineered it out.
Do a search on "pull" in this group. I got 10 pages of hits.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
draggcj - you have certainly had your share of problems so far - can this possibly be steering rack related? go back for that and persue the lemon law if you can.
Really like my accord so far in many other respects, but like others, I have a few squeaks & rattles. In all honestly though, I think my 02 jeep liberty is more well built. 2 years & not 1 rattle, squeak, pull R/L. etc..BUT I can sure take corners a lot better in the accord ( and have more fun doing it).
American Honda (800)999-1009
Maybe Honda will eventually own up to this problem!
I love that statement they're not responsible, unless they decide to be... Should owners put up with this approach to quality???
aggie 1995: take note of 5686, 5687. Hmmmmm.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
However, I only located one Honda Technical Bulletin, and it was for issued for Steering Vibration. It applies to vehicles whose VIN#'s begin with "1HGCM" (mine does). To file your own complaint or perform a search go to www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/
I'm not saying that these individuals don't have a problem with their cars. And if they truly do, I know that it is a horrible feeling to own a new car and have significant issues.
But that doesn't mean that it is a rampant problem. And also recognize that some people are just really nitpicky about their cars. Not every complaint is valid as a Qulaity control issue. If a vehicle tracks straight as an arrow on some streets and pulls to the right on others is that a problem with the car or the street? I would say the street. If the vehicle always pulls to the right then it is probably a vehicle problem.
Either way, if you have an issue report it to the NHTSB web site and hopefully they will investigate the issue.
Good luck with your car problems, hope you all get them resolved.
Thanks,
Ken
I don't profess to be a "Statistician", and even if I were, I wouldn't try to draw any conlculsions based soley on what is posted here.
This is an information forum and I am using it as such. I am merely sharing my experince and encouraging other folks with similar problems to document them with Honda or other proper authority.
Due to the nature of this problem, I suspect that many other 2003 Honda Accord owners have already "given up" and decided to live with their car "pulling to the right!" Especially after taking their vehicle back to the dealer time after time and being told that it's the tires, the wheels, the alignment, torque pull, road crown, etc.
I personally consider this problem to be significant...so call me "Picky" if you like, but I am not willing to accept Honda's excuses for this factory defect.
If you really want to pursue "Statistics", do some research on "Zero Defects" and "Six Sigma". I'm sure that Honda is familar with both of these Quality tools!
Nothing personal...my sarcasm is "all in fun!"
but you can’t find anything wrong with their
vehicles to account for it [there’s no DTC(s) set, no driveability problems reported, nothing damaged or broken]? Then it could well be coming from the catalytic converter. That smell is a release of builtup hydrogen sulfide (H2S) from the reaction of organic sulfur compounds in the gasoline with the catalyst in the converter.
Almost all gasoline contains some amount of
organic sulfur compounds, and that amount varies
by region. The more sulfur there is in the gasoline, the more H2S is built up and released by the catalytic converter, so the stronger the smell.
In California, where low-sulfur gasoline is actually required by state law, sulfur smell complaints are few and far between. The folks at the Environmental Protection Agency have issued a
requirement for the phasing-in of low-sulfur
gasoline nationwide between 2004 and 2006. This
low-sulfur gasoline should go a long way toward
making complaints of rotten egg smell a thing of
the past.
As for the Service Bulletin for exhaust leaks, it either isnt so as of yet or maybe it is only true in Japan because I couldnt find any write ups on it at all on our system..
The dealer replaced the front brakes tuned the engine and other unsuccessful tries before the transmission replacement.
They called it a conicity pull, whatever that means. put a new tire on and my car doesn't pull anymore!! yippee. I had to initiate this as someone told me to have the wheels and tires checked.
seriously, some people say that Honda automatics don't work well with V6's? i know the TL's had problems one year. anyone have any technical proof that Honda fixed the automatics for the new style Accords?
thanks