and have a couple of questions/comments. the pull problem also was in my new '03 EX V6. the dealere told me they had had a letter about the improper subframe assembly and how to correct. Mine turned out to be a way out of spec alignment (toe-in) and although the car is not rock solid on highway it does track pretty well. I saw a post about the CD compartment rattle fix (??) My dealer cannot cure the low speed rattle after 3 visits and contacting Honda Tech. Any advise would be welcome. Only other complaint is the rear seat lock (inside) will not unlock after I locked it the first time. Need to go back to the same somewhat unresponsive dealer for that. This iste is interesting overall and helpful. thanks..
All electric windows, except for the front drivers side window recently stopped working. In addition, the power door lock switch does not function. Both problems seem to be related since they occurred at the same time. I checked the fuses related to the power windows and power door lock, but they appear to be normal. Has anyone experienced similar problems with their Accord. Any suggestions on how I might effect repair without visiting the dealer? Please advise.
Thanks for trying to clarify the comments being posted so everyone can realize that there actually is more than 1 type of transmission issue taking place out there.
this subframe drifting issue. does it only affect certain cars? mine is dead on perfect. built in 8/03. perhaps mine was assembled correctly at that late point in the assembly line? if you made 11 payments already, your must be an older 03....right?
Did somebody ever measured the oil consumption of the Accord ? I always thought that my 2001 Accord at 33,000 KMs would have zero oil consumption. Still it seems that it ate about 0.625 liters in 5,000 KMs (about 3,000 miles). Is this a lot or what ?!
Underneath the engine is clean, so there is no oil leak.
What level does it show on the dipstick? I have never had to put in oil between oil changes for our '02 Accord (22,000km so far). But before going in for the last scheduled maintenance, I checked and the oil level was about 1/3 down from the high mark on the dipstick.
Will use SOME oil. They have to. Without doing a metric to U.S. conversion it doesn't seem like you have much to complain about.
I have to admit, I rarely check the oil on my Accord. Usually I get it changed around the 4000 mile mark. I'll check it then and it's usually about a half inch below the full mark.
Even if I had to add a quart every 3000 miles I would consider it perfectly acceptable.
Well-maintained (and designed) engines lose very little oil; within a 5k change interval, a reasonable "top up" is a maximum 1/4 quart per my experience.
Try turning the intermittant wiper timer setting to the mid position, then turn the key on and off. Now start the car and try the windows and locks.. It should work if not try that again, if still nothing do it again but this time with the ring in the lowest setting..Good luck one or the other will amaze you this resets the control unit somehow or another...
Still without hearing it hard to say however it could have some serious issues from what you say happen to it..Have it checked out once more and see from there..
From what I have seen the extension goes back to 99 on the Odyssey but only back to 2000 on the Accords. Still worth the call to Honda customer relations they may help.Good luck
Just like isell, I've been able to get away with being lazy with checking oil. With the exception of a 2000 Prelude (which had an appetite for oil) all recent Hondas that I've had consume almost no oil between changes. The oil in the V6 engines also manage to stay remarkably clean between changes.
Have had/maintained several accords-a couple going over the 200K mark and none burned oil between changes-maybe down 1/4 to 1/2 between the full and low marks.
Have had to replace valve cover gaskets when they get hard and leak oil-but that is really easy to see. Look at the filter and see if there is oil dropping on to the exhaust pipe-also check out the drain plug-any leaks around that.
It turns out that some Accords have ride heights that differ. While at the dealership I took out a tape measure and measured from bottom of the wheel rim up to the bottom edge of the body panel of the wheel well cut out. There was a variation of 24 1/4" to 24 3/4" on the cars. There was no correspondence between 2003 and 2004 models. There was no correspondence between 4-cylinder and V6 models. There was no correspondence between Japanese and American assembled cars. I measured 8 cars in the lot. Exactly 1/2 the cars had matching measurements between the left and right, although this height has not always consistent from car to car. The other cars had discrepancies between left and right, between 1/8" to 5/8".
When I spoke to the service managed about this, they said that it is within spec to have that discrepancy. But my belief if that cars with matching ride height on the left and right side will track more straight than those cars with unmatched springs. My own car has a ride height and that differs 1/4' from right to left.
I write this because I think it is highly probable that the ride height might have an influence on the alignment of the car, and I wish I had known of this and checked it before I purchased my car. I still think the Accord is a good car, but this experience will make me more cautious about wheels and suspensions on new cars in the future. Never trust a salesperson who says, "A wheel alignment will fix that." Always make sure your car is exactly right before making a deal on it. I think it is reasonable when buying such and expensive object that the alignment be consistent and perfect.
I have made a written on-line complaint to the NHTSA, and will write a letter to American Honda this weekend, but otherwise I think I might have to accept this flaw in my car and move on. Thanks to everyone who has helped on this message center who has read postings, and good luck to you all.
To all of you new Accord owners, I recommend calling Honda Customer Relations if your dealer can't/won't help you with problems.
I've had two brake-related problems so far on my 03 EX-V6. First, excessive grinding noise from the pads about two weeks after I purchased the car. The dealer was at a loss as to the solution, so I called HCR, which worked with the dealer to fix the problem.
Now, at 7500 miles, the brakes shudder if applied when I'm driving more than 60 mph. The dealer told me that it's likely warped rotors, and that I might be liable for any repair cost (ludicrous). So I called HCR as a preemptive strike. Lo and behold, the dealer called today to let me know that they spoke with HCR and I would not be liable for any repair costs, and would I care for a rental car?
I don't suggest abusing the HCR option, but in cases like this, it certainly seems to help.
you are like my mom - waits till the last minute to brake. you wore out rotors in record time there. i know people that go through them every year here in the DC area. too much stop and go traffic....
good to know that when mine go bad, i won't have to pay
Thanks guys. In an ideal world it shouldn't burn oil. Talking US units, it lost ~ 0.7 quart the last 3000 miles. Between the Max and the Min marks on the dipstick there is a quart (946 ml for Canadians). In fact Max means 5 quarts and Min means 4 quarts of oil in the engine.
Bodble2, the oil in the I4 engines also stays remarkably clean between changes. I wonder if it's because the 5W20 they recommend for my 2001 is better than the classic 5W30.
Bburton3, your post reminded me that in fact I lost some oil during the last 3000 miles. It's because since I own this car I always replaced the oil by myself except once - in February. It was too cold so I went to Canadian Tire and there Arnold Schwartzeneger replaced it. He tightened the drain plug so much that the washer got probably partially compressed. In July I replaced again the oil - by myself this time. After the replacement I noticed oil spots on the garage floor and on the drain plug. After some head scratching I went to Honda, bought some new washers and replaced it. The oil leak completely stopped ! Obviously I have no clue how much of the 0.625 quarts were lost at that time. Also I lost a little bit when I replaced the washer.
By the way I always use a torque wrench when tightening the drain plug.
Sorry for the long message, but if you replace the oil by yourself I thought it could be useful for you to read my story.
Thank you very much for the tip on the power lock and power window problem on my 1998 Accord. Your advice successfully fixed the problem on the first try:-)
this morning was the first really cold (high 30's, low 40's) morning, and my car had that rotten egg smell for a few minutes when i first started it. why do cars do that when it gets cold? is it the summer gas not taking well to cold temps?
note - the car is at about 1700 miles. the car had NO gas in it. gas light had been on for two days. i put gas in it right away this morning. smell went away, but by that time, the car was already warmed up too.
Is caused by the sulphur in the gasoline-formulations change for winter and summer blends-I live on the line between the "oxygenated" gas counties and the straight stuff. When burn the oxygenated stuff, there is more sulphur in that blend-or at least it smells more. As your cat gets more miles on it, will stink less.
Absolutely normal-see if you can find any gasoline without the gasohol additive and see if that makes a difference. Oh about 4 months ago a law went thru making mandatory at least a 20% ethanol content in all gasoline in a couple of years-the farmers have real clout.
i noticed when i was putting gas in the car, that pump said from Nov 1 to Feb 28 the state used oxygenated gas. so, my car might smell until Nov 1, or am i confused?
Love my 03 ex at, but have some creaks, buzzes, etc... Supposedly the structural rigidity of the new accord is greater than the last, but it does not seems so. Whenever I make small turns, over bumps, out of parking spaces, down my inclined driveway, I can hear the doors creaking, sunroof too. It seems likes its the seals rubbing. Any ideas on how to resolve this noise issue. Would rubbing it down with a silcone lubricant help or hurt?
Next, I can try to deal with the vibrating doors when its cold or there is too much bass in the music (Howard Stern's voice makes the doors vibrate a lot) - anyone find a fix for this one?
Anyone have the a-pillar on the passenger side vibration? Any answers for that one?
>Oh about 4 months ago a law went thru making >mandatory at least a 20% ethanol content in all >gasoline in a couple of years-the farmers have >real clout.
The proponents of ethanol are companies like ADM. They make the money. They just pretend it will raise the price paid to farmers for corn. Actually those companies are also in the large farm business too.
That bill passed with almost no attention in the media as to its real benefactors just like the house pay increase passed. I only heard it mentioned on WLW 700 am.
My 99 Accord clock light went off few weeks ago, and I know at least 3 more people's Honda has the same problem, Anybody knows how to fix it? I am out of warranty, I hope Honda can address this problem.
can't speak for the Accord, since mine is fine, but in my Jetta, a little PURE silicon lubricant spray every few months helps with creaking noises from door seals. might try that first....better than letting the dealer mess with it. they tend to leave grease marks everywhere.
I have a 1999 Honda Accord, 4 door sedan with the dark green paint. The paint on my roof has several spots that have faded out, 2 which are about 3 inches in diameter. has anyone successfully gotten a dealer to repaint a car with similar symptoms? And if so, what "argument did you use with them to convince them this was a factory defect verses an owner caused problem?
The subframe drift Service Bulletin is dated 7/1/03 and it looks like the number is 03-036. It says it applies to all 2003 Accords. Good luck It didn't fix my car.
I have a paper copy of this Service Bulletin. I think the reason you can't find reference to it is because it is only a 'Service Bulletin' and not a 'Tech Service Bulletin'. This is an assumption on my part. I can scan it in if necessary but not sure how to attach to anything other then an email. Justin - This Service Bulletin applies to cars with a symptom of "drifting to the right at highway speeds". It applies to all 2003 Accords, but not all Accords need it done. If your car is fine, you don't need this done.
When I was buying my Accord, I asked the salesman about the recalls I had read about here, and if service could be done to my car before I picked it up. He said that they aren't allowed to sell a car until all recalls and TSBs had been performed. I don't know if that is hype, this dealer, etc. When I called Honda Customer Care to see if they could give me the *exact* build date of my car (no - they don't have it recorded anywhere) when she pulled up the records for my car, she said that there weren't any "programs" on my car - no recalls.
Maybe they did fix it before they made our 08/03 cars?
i wasn't aware that there were any recalls at all on the 03 Accord. what "recalls" are out there for our cars? the TSB for this drifting problem is a good faith measure on all Accords, but hopefully ours won't need it. i am sure that we would have noticed this "drifting" issue by now.....
I think the salesman told you a whopper. Yes, they would do all safety "recalls", but chances are slim that they would lookup all TSBs that would apply and check-off each. I also doubt Honda corporate would encourage this.
I don't think I saw any 6th Gen with the "thump at start" TSB applied when I bought my 01 and this was around from the beginning of that Gen, I believe. A simple reroute of a vacuum line.
Now, if you're aware of any TSBs that apply to your vehicle, after you've purchased it, the dealer would have no problem doing them during warranty I suspect.
You have to do your own homework. This is where sites like this are very beneficial.
IIRC...one was about reverse, which would "only" cause problems if you were trying to rock b/f in the snow (I'm in Vermont!) and the other was about air intake clamp or something...I'd have to search these groups to find them, but they came out right around the time we got our cars.
Yes! Mine is still great...and I continue to keep my fingers crossed!!
He may have, and I may have misunderstood him, but the dealer has a reputation for having an amazing service department, so who knows. And you can bet that I'm paying attention to every post here...the other day I heard a rattle, thought, "oh no...here we go!" and then realized it was the Altoids tin in the cup holder! Phew!!
I have a 2003 EX 4-cyl MT. When the AC is on there is a noticeable loss in engine power, which I guess is probably normal for this car. I experience the same power loss when my front defroster is on too, which doesn't seem right. The headlights even go dim when the front defroster is on. What could cause this power loss from the defroster? Is this a normal occurance with this car?
Sorry. I said I was assuming they were different. I haven't looked them up in a while. They used to be called TSBs - maybe that was Toyota. Either way, I have a copy of a "service bulletin" from Honda on the Subframe shift - but don't see it listed at NHTSA. Go figure... To be consistent with the inconsistency - I looked up my vin number on the Honda website today for the first time. They say I have no recalls on my car. Thats funny because Honda sent me a recall notice. BTW the items on the recall for my 03 Accord EX-L are: Intake Air Breather Pipe, Evaporator Emission Canister and No-Reverse Condition.
The A/C compressor comes on automatically during defrost mode to clear window mist. It can be manually defeated by pressing the A/C button.
With the A/C off, most if not all of the time, window mist will form. Older systems required the A/C compressor to be switched on manually but carmakers figured that it would be more user-convenient to make it automatic.
you are too much! i am trying to stop being the person that LOOKS and LISTENS for problems it is hard, i know. i am really trying to NOT obsess over the Accord. went through that wiith all of my VW's, decided the Accord would be the car that i just drive, enjoy, and hopefully don't think about!
keep letting me know how yours is doing. i will do the same!
unfortunately, on the '03 Accord, you can't disable the A/C because it is all integrated... the A/C light doesn't even turn on...
I believe that on previous versions, and most domestics you can, though.
Like you posted, the main reason the A/C turns on is because the evaporator removes most of the humidity in the air(condenses on the evap, and causes the water drips under the car) and can more efficiently "defrost" the inside of the window.
I have a new 4 cylinder Accord (3 months and 1,600 miles) and love it except for the constant smell. If I turn off the recirculation button, the "rotten egg smell" permeates into the cabin. If I leave the engine on for even under a minute in my garage, my garage stink of this surphuric odor.
I've tried different brands of gas (including those without ethanol content) but the smell just won't go away. My dealership service manager tells me that they've had two other customers complain about the smell, but eventually the smell went away. He told me that as long as the check engine light doesn't come on, there is no leak in the exhaust system.
I've read somewhere that Accords sold in Japan had a technical bulletin on faulty exhaustion pipes. My Accord was assembled in Japan; I wonder if that has anything to do with the smell. Any advice? Should I just wait and see, or do you think there is a potential problem?
Why? Try the following: The A/C, especially for a 4-cyl, does put a bit of a drag on the engine. You can hear the compressor kick in and out. It causes annoying little surges especially when idling. Under certain temperature conditions, you have to crank up the temp dial to prevent getting a blast of cold air in your face.
The "real fix" will occur with the distribution of low sulfur gas nationwide in a couple of years. I think Toyota, Honda and others jumped the gun and maybe should have used the old specification for a year or two more.
Comments
Underneath the engine is clean, so there is no oil leak.
I have to admit, I rarely check the oil on my Accord. Usually I get it changed around the 4000 mile mark. I'll check it then and it's usually about a half inch below the full mark.
Even if I had to add a quart every 3000 miles I would consider it perfectly acceptable.
Have had to replace valve cover gaskets when they get hard and leak oil-but that is really easy to see. Look at the filter and see if there is oil dropping on to the exhaust pipe-also check out the drain plug-any leaks around that.
When I spoke to the service managed about this, they said that it is within spec to have that discrepancy. But my belief if that cars with matching ride height on the left and right side will track more straight than those cars with unmatched springs. My own car has a ride height and that differs 1/4' from right to left.
I write this because I think it is highly probable that the ride height might have an influence on the alignment of the car, and I wish I had known of this and checked it before I purchased my car. I still think the Accord is a good car, but this experience will make me more cautious about wheels and suspensions on new cars in the future. Never trust a salesperson who says, "A wheel alignment will fix that." Always make sure your car is exactly right before making a deal on it. I think it is reasonable when buying such and expensive object that the alignment be consistent and perfect.
I have made a written on-line complaint to the NHTSA, and will write a letter to American Honda this weekend, but otherwise I think I might have to accept this flaw in my car and move on. Thanks to everyone who has helped on this message center who has read postings, and good luck to you all.
I've had two brake-related problems so far on my 03 EX-V6. First, excessive grinding noise from the pads about two weeks after I purchased the car. The dealer was at a loss as to the solution, so I called HCR, which worked with the dealer to fix the problem.
Now, at 7500 miles, the brakes shudder if applied when I'm driving more than 60 mph. The dealer told me that it's likely warped rotors, and that I might be liable for any repair cost (ludicrous). So I called HCR as a preemptive strike. Lo and behold, the dealer called today to let me know that they spoke with HCR and I would not be liable for any repair costs, and would I care for a rental car?
I don't suggest abusing the HCR option, but in cases like this, it certainly seems to help.
good to know that when mine go bad, i won't have to pay
Talking US units, it lost ~ 0.7 quart the last 3000 miles.
Between the Max and the Min marks on the dipstick there is a quart (946 ml for Canadians). In fact Max means 5 quarts and Min means 4 quarts of oil in the engine.
Bodble2, the oil in the I4 engines also stays remarkably clean between changes. I wonder if it's because the 5W20 they recommend for my 2001 is better than the classic 5W30.
Bburton3, your post reminded me that in fact I lost some oil during the last 3000 miles. It's because since I own this car I always replaced the oil by myself except once - in February. It was too cold so I went to Canadian Tire and there Arnold Schwartzeneger replaced it. He tightened the drain plug so much that the washer got probably partially compressed. In July I replaced again the oil - by myself this time. After the replacement I noticed oil spots on the garage floor and on the drain plug. After some head scratching I went to Honda, bought some new washers and replaced it. The oil leak completely stopped ! Obviously I have no clue how much of the 0.625 quarts were lost at that time. Also I lost a little bit when I replaced the washer.
By the way I always use a torque wrench when tightening the drain plug.
Sorry for the long message, but if you replace the oil by yourself I thought it could be useful for you to read my story.
they just turned the rotors.
note - the car is at about 1700 miles. the car had NO gas in it. gas light had been on for two days. i put gas in it right away this morning. smell went away, but by that time, the car was already warmed up too.
thoughts?
Absolutely normal-see if you can find any gasoline without the gasohol additive and see if that makes a difference. Oh about 4 months ago a law went thru making mandatory at least a 20% ethanol content in all gasoline in a couple of years-the farmers have real clout.
It's appreciated by me and others, I'm sure!
berbel
Next, I can try to deal with the vibrating doors when its cold or there is too much bass in the music (Howard Stern's voice makes the doors vibrate a lot) - anyone find a fix for this one?
Anyone have the a-pillar on the passenger side vibration? Any answers for that one?
frustrating with an otherwise great vehicle.
The proponents of ethanol are companies like ADM. They make the money. They just pretend it will raise the price paid to farmers for corn. Actually those companies are also in the large farm business too.
That bill passed with almost no attention in the media as to its real benefactors just like the house pay increase passed. I only heard it mentioned on WLW 700 am.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Use a small screwdriver and be careful not to scratch anything.
The Honda dealer has the tiny replacement bulb.
Nothing to it, really.
Sam
It didn't fix my car.
Thanks in advance.
i am not letting anyone touch the car just yet...;)
Justin - This Service Bulletin applies to cars with a symptom of "drifting to the right at highway speeds". It applies to all 2003 Accords, but not all Accords need it done. If your car is fine, you don't need this done.
Maybe they did fix it before they made our 08/03 cars?
yours is still working great, right? mine is...
I don't think I saw any 6th Gen with the "thump at start" TSB applied when I bought my 01 and this was around from the beginning of that Gen, I believe. A simple reroute of a vacuum line.
Now, if you're aware of any TSBs that apply to your vehicle, after you've purchased it, the dealer would have no problem doing them during warranty I suspect.
You have to do your own homework. This is where sites like this are very beneficial.
Yes! Mine is still great...and I continue to keep my fingers crossed!!
With the A/C off, most if not all of the time, window mist will form. Older systems required the A/C compressor to be switched on manually but carmakers figured that it would be more user-convenient to make it automatic.
keep letting me know how yours is doing. i will do the same!
I believe that on previous versions, and most domestics you can, though.
Like you posted, the main reason the A/C turns on is because the evaporator removes most of the humidity in the air(condenses on the evap, and causes the water drips under the car) and can more efficiently "defrost" the inside of the window.
It does NOT put a significant drag on the engine or cause the car to use much more fuel!
It's a GOOD thing!
I've tried different brands of gas (including those without ethanol content) but the smell just won't go away. My dealership service manager tells me that they've had two other customers complain about the smell, but eventually the smell went away. He told me that as long as the check engine light doesn't come on, there is no leak in the exhaust system.
I've read somewhere that Accords sold in Japan had a technical bulletin on faulty exhaustion pipes. My Accord was assembled in Japan; I wonder if that has anything to do with the smell.
Any advice? Should I just wait and see, or do you think there is a potential problem?
I think Toyota, Honda and others jumped the gun and maybe should have used the old specification for a year or two more.