My front passenger window makes a rattling noise when going over even the slightest bumps in the road. This only happens when the window is all the way up. If the window is down, even a littly bit, the noise is not present. How do I fix this?
Also, when I turn on the AC the compressor(I think) makes a louder than normal clunk noise. What I mean by this is I've never owned a car that made such a loud noise when turning on the AC, especially one this new. The noise is short lived, like 1 second.
My 03 LX V6 has the same problem every time I turn on the AC. Even while I cruise on the highway around 70 and I turn on the AC, Pang there it goes and I feel the car shake a bit. Very annoying. Make me feel the car is lacking power for both the driving and the AC. But V6 is supposed to be more than enough.
Thanks for the reply. I was told by the dealer that semi-metallic bads are used by Honda, and they are supposed to squeak, but when they get hot, it will disappear. Indeed the noise will disappear after several brakings (at least I do not hear it, but it may be after that I am on the highway!).
I have fixed a few creaking/ticking sounds from the rear shelf area. But depending on how bad the noise is and from where it sounds to be when sitting in the rear of the car it could lso be a strut or a swaybar link. We have not seen a bunch of strut problems in Accords but we have had a couple. There is some models that have a dampner on the rear shelf that is inside the trunk on the bottom side of the rear shelf, this is being shipped loose and makes noises but there is a vin break on those To: 2003 Accord 4-Door – From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C019349 2003 Accord 4-Door – From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A054708 2003 Accord 2-Door – From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A014092. Good luck
by the way close but not close enough for doughnuts to be dropped off, I work in New Jersey but thanks for the thought
My VIN doesn't fall within any of those ranges, so my guess is it's something in the suspension like you said (strut or swaybar link). When I go in for my first oil change, I'll see if my dealer can figure it out. I'll definitely mention what you suggested, too.
It doesn't really bother me that much to be honest. As long as the car drives well and is reliable, a few squeaks here or there won't drive me crazy. If it were happening all the time it would bother me, but this mainly occurs only on really rough roads which I try to avoid anyway. I'm planning on 150K miles plus out of this car anyway, so I'm sure other noises are on the way!
Thanks a lot for the advice. I really appreciate it. Have a great weekend.
All four brakes have audible brake wear indicators. When the brake pads need replacing, you will hear a distinctive metallic "screeching" sound when you apply the brakes. If you do not have the brake pads replaced, they will begin screeching all the time.
Your brakes may sometimes squeal or squeak when you apply them lightly. Do not confuse this with the brake wear indicators. They make a very audible "screeching."
Occasional noise can be caused by the light application of brakes for a prolonged distance before stopping, or from high relative humidity. These are normally temporary and are considered normal brake noises not requiring repair." ============================================
If you go to https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com you can register your vehicle and view tips on caring for your Honda. You can also pay your bill on line this way. Pretty cool website.
Is there a TSB on this? My Accord has a VIN # within that range concerning the rattle from the rear area. I am going in for the "update" so I was wondering if I should mention it.
There is a service bulletin for it but unless you have a rattle from the rear shelf there would be no reason to brung it up. Service Bulletins are intended to help the tech find and repair things that have been reported accross the country but not all vehicles (even those in the VIN range) will have a problem. Product Updates are the same way as they cover cars that are experiancing certain conditions where as a Recall is another story they cover all cars within a VIN range.
Do you know if the dealer can reprogram some of the electronic functions? Toyota can with their "C-best" system. And I also know Nissan can. I'm referring to functions such as delay-time for auto-off lights, auto-locking and unlocking, passive-armimg for security, volume of "beeps" on keyless entry, etc, etc. I think Toyota does it via a handheld computer while Nissan has to plug the cars to a diagnostic unit. Does Honda offer something similar?
Purchased a 2003 Honda Accord EX-L Sedan and was just wondering if it is normal for the power windows to leave several horizontal lines on the window. The window sounds like it's gripping and releasing against the window seals on the last few inches before going completely down.
Also, does anyone else have a musty smell come from the vents "after" using the climate control and then switching to just air circulation via the fan?
Last Week after "gasing" and driving about a mile, my engine check light came on!! Pulled over checked my "fluid" levels, gas cap and all seemed ok. Haven't noticed anything different in the ride yet! Appointment with my Honda Shop late this coming week. They think it might be a problem with the emissions system in my car, but have to wait until they pull the codes out to be certain (I had recieved an emissions extended warranty sometime last year, so its possible).
Anyways, to cut the long story short: Anybody know what could be wrong with the emissions (what might have gone bad), or what stuff they might have to fix assuming its the emissions thats gone whacky??? Or any thing else that I ought to look into other than the emissions and what I checked?? Any input, suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
The musty smell is normal. I've had the same issue with many cars.
The window problem is a FLAW and I have been going through the paces trying to solve the problem with my dealer. I bought the dealer-installed option of tinted windows, and the dealer has re-tinted them through a local shop they contract with. I've had the DRIVER's windows retinted 4 times, and the window gaskets replaced twice.
I still get SCRATCHES in the window tint, vertically, about 8 inches in length and four inches aft of the leading edge of the window glass. These tend to appear closer to the top of the window glass. It may have been resolved this last trip to the dealer, but I got deployed to the desert and haven't made it home to use the window much yet and see if the problem has stopped.
I'm on the verge of demanding another door, as I really want the window tint but it keeps on getting scraped. It will either come down getting rid of the window tint (money back) or replacing the door.
Our fairly new HDS tester is supposed to be able to do alot of things that I just havent had the chance to play with as of yet. I know that I have heard you can change certain things but not for sure which. Its been a crazy busy summer and have not had the time to check it out yet. If I find out anything I will let you know.
In that year we see many different codes so it would be hard to guess. The 96 and 97 Hondas do have an emissions extension warranty that covers mostly everything for 14years or 150,000 miles. If it ends up being an EGR flow code, cleaning the intake manifold of a clog is covered even though most Dealers do not know this because the notice was sent out on a service news not a service bulletin..Anyhow let us know what you get..
Like some others on this board, I'm having early brake problems with my 2003 EX-V6. About two weeks after I bought it, the brakes developed a loud grinding noise, which the dealer was unable to fix. After bringing Honda Customer Service into the equation, the dealer replaced the pads and resurfaced the rotors.
Now, at about 6000 miles, the brakes are beginning to shudder when applied at speeds over 65 mph or so. I will have to confirm the problem with the dealer, but it appears that the rotors are at fault. I may have to reacquaint myself with my representative at Honda Customer Service.
Other than that, the only other problems are the rattles mentioned elsewhere, very hot key, and out-of-whack thermometer. I can live with all of those, but not with perpetually failing rotors.
I noticed several complaints on the NHTSA site for malfunctioning or nonfunctioning airbags. That's pretty scary. Here's hoping mine are never tested.
The car is very fun to drive, and passengers love it, too. I hope that Honda can resolve these issues in the near future, before the ownership experience is soured.
Re: the engine check light. after getting gas, did you make sure you turned the gas cap 4-5 clicks? the owners manual & my salesman at delivery stressed this point to me.
I have been reading these posts for a while and noticed that a few people had their passneger air bag deploy, while driver's did not. I was at a body shop, and saw 2003 accord with smashed front, but only the passenger airbag deployed and the driver's airbag was still intact in the steering wheel. My guess is that the wiring is messed up. In the countries where they drive on the left side, the driver is on the right side and the passenger sensor is on the left side. If the engineers did not rewire the sensor to read the passenger seat (right side in US) sensor to send signal to passenger air bag (right side in US), then it would explain why passenger bag deployed and driver's did not. The system read that the "driver's" seat (right side) was occoupied and deployed "driver's" airbag (right side). The systems still "thinks" that it is being operated in Japan/UK/Australia/India/South Africa ect.
I wonder if people who had passengers in the front seat had both airbags deploy? If the theory is true, I think someone is about to be fired at Honda. Honda would have to recall ALL of the Left hand driver Accords and replace the SRS wiring harness or re-program the SRS computer.
Its just a new lap top like computer (that uses the Windows Palm pilot system) that we use to access the computer and systems in the car. So far I have used it for check engine lights/diagnoses, body electrical inspections such as using the HDS to turn on lights,guages,wipers,window operation, and test comunications with any control units. It is going to replace our old PGM-FI testers which used a company Vertronics for its software and over the past few years have had troubles with the testers and updating it so Honda went with this which is supposed to be alot like Toyota, Volkswagon and a few others machines. So far it is great but we will see how it holds up..
I have owned the car for about 6 months and noticed that when I cleaned the windows there was small water spots that wont come out . The windows are tinted. Does anyone else have this problem?No glass cleaner seems to work? Is it a factory defect in the windows?
auburn63: Thanks for the input, appreciate it. Will definitely post once I have it checked out. winbro: I normally tighten my gas cap till it makes the clicking sound (3, 4 times maybe). I believe I did the same that day too, and after the check light came on I opened and tightened again to make sure. Anyways, will post after Thursday once I have the car checked out. Thanks again.
My VIN# falls under the first sequence you listed in post #5612. I have had my 2003 Accord LX 4 door in three times now for this and they just keep telling me they can't duplicate the problem. I heard it as early as 3,000 miles. At 8,000 miles I was able to duplicate the noise for the service manager. When I picked the car up they said that they replaced my strut collars. I did not hear the noise for a while, but now it back among other noises that make my stomach turn. The noise I hear from the back end is a grumbling noise, that is the easiest way that I can describe it. I hear it when I am slowly backing out of my garage or a parking space. Basically, when ever I am rolling with my foot off both the gas and brake at slow speed. I never hear it when driving at regular speeds, only when very slowly rolling. Also, when ever I start the car, with my foot fully depressed on the brake pedal, when I put the car in reverse there is a grinding noise from the back end. I do not understand this, as my foot is completely holding the brake pedal dowm. What is this noise? And most recently, I am noticing a clunking noise when I turn the steering wheel while backing out or rolling forward (slowly as well). It's that horrible clunk I always hear in American cars (sorry, I always hear this unacceptable clunk in American cars, this is my frist time ever hearing it in a Honda). I am so unhappy and worried that I bought a lemon. They replaced my front brakes as soon as 3,000 miles, that concerns me as once again because they are making a grinding noise, not constantly, but enough that I am worried about this as well. As long as I am driving, the car seems perfect (outside of creaking around the windows), but I just want earplugs for when I go to put the car in reverse or drive, and when I am backing out or slowing rolling through a parking lot. I am going to print out what you wrote in #5612 and bring it in to my service center. I really hope they can fix this and the other items at some point, I am at 17K miles now and I am sick thinking I might have bought a lemon. Can you make me feel any better about these issues I am having? Do they sound familiar? Can you expalin the loose dampner and what damage it could be causing from being loose? If they tightened it and didn't tell me at 3,000 miles, could it loosen again? They said they replaced the strut collars, and I did notice that the noise went away for a while, but it's back again. I am wondering if they really did replace the strut collars? Wouldn't they know that my car is one of the cars that falls with in these VIN's you listed? I would very much apprecaiate anything you can tell me to help me out with my next visit to the service center. Thank you.
I have noticed spotting on my windows as well, but I think it is because I parked under a tree that dropped little round petals which stained it. Someone told me if I wash it with vinegar, the water spots should come out. I haven't tried it yet, but I'll let you know if it works.
I almost consistently hear a clicking sound from the automatic transmission from my car (4 cylinder LX) when putting it into reverse from drive. It has not posed any driveablility problems but it is starting to worry me.
The dampner can not and will not cause any other problems other than the noise you are hearing. As for some of the other noises, when starting with your foot on the brake and get that noise well that is probably going to be normal brake grunt noise as the car shifts it weight when you put it into gear. You can help stop that noise by applying less pressure to the brakes as you put it into gear, this usally works. The other couple of noises dont ring any bells and are hard to talk about without hearing them but the one from the rear may be the rear shocks/struts as we have done a few for similar noises. The only other thing I think of and always check is a slightly bent exhaust system as it is very easy for someone to bump you from the rear in a parking spot or even you back into something and not know it. When this happens the exhaust sometimes bends and hits against the body , most of the time in reverse due to the shift motion of the engine. Take a close look there...Good luck
Sometimes when I step on the brake, the wheels feel like locked and pulled to one side.. Is this normal? I would experience a force if I try to turn while braking.. 03 Accord EX I4 at 8KM..
Driving 80mph I noticed engine check went on flashing and tachometer up tp 4000rpm. I am not sure if this a tranny slipped or I accidentally had D3 (Drive-3-Shifts) mode on. In any case, I pulled over, visually checked the engine and found nothing. I didn't shut engine. I drove back in 5 minutes and the tachometer was back to normal 2700rmp (the enchine check was still on and is still on after two days). Dealer suggested a tranny problem. I feel like reset the computer and make sure it is not one time thing or my negligence (I mean the wrong drive mode). How can I reset it cheaper (the dealer asks $95)? Any other advice? Thanks a lot.
my front passanger's window regulator is defective, i had to take it off. now if i would buy another regulator would it be easy to install it. i mean taking it off was easy cuz the cable was cut, but the new one!!??! if anybody has an idea please reply thx
Go to any autozone parts store and they will read the CEL for you-Do not erase the code till u have read it. Also check your tranny fluid level asap, smell the fluid-does it smell burnt and is it very dark. When did u change it last?
Clearing out the code takes maybe 15 seconds-on my 97 I just pull out the ecm/PCM fuse-#39 in the corner for 10 seconds and the code is gone-if the dealer is charging 95 to just reset this thing-he is a crook. Mine only charges 65 to read the code including doing the reset-course autozone does it for free.
I have a manual with the key to the code numbers-Auburn63 can put meaning to those codes so let us know what the code numbers are-hopefully no tranny damage.
Thanks a lot, bburton3. I will get it to the AutoZone tomorrow and see what the codes are. I did full transmission oil flush about 4,000 miles back, just before we took off for vacation. Then we went to Canada, around 3,000 miles drive both ways. The light came on around 1 in the night when we were half our way back. Imagine how nervous I got with two little children on the back seat!
many of the late 90's early 00's accords/TL/CL's have an extened warranty on the tranny up to 5/75k or something like that... may want to check with your local dealership or Honda to find out... I believe if you sign up with Honda's owner link on their website, they will tell you if your vehicle qualifies.
Thanks for the hint. I called my dealer and they checked my car by VIN number. Unfortunately for me '98 LX-V6 doesn't have any warranty extension. The car has around 88K miles.
Does this mean you had one of those machines hooked up to your tranny that "flushes" your tranny with a solvent before replacing the fluid. Was this a independent shop or honda dealer-what tranny fluid did they use-Honda ATF I hope.
IMHO those tranny flush systems can cause big problems if they leave any of the "solvent" in the tranny. Had a CEL code on mine-turned out to be a countershaft speed sensor in the tranny had gone out of tolerance-I "flushed" my tranny anyway with 2 complete changes of Honda ATF with a 50 mile trip between changes.
Anybody else got any concerns about tranny flushes using a solvent?
Also it is possible to disconnect the line running from the ATF cooling coil-connect it to a large jug and while letting the engine idle-let the "used" atf drain into a large clear jug while adding an equal amount of atf at the same time thru the "check" dip stick hole. Sounds like a chinese fire drill but some shops do this instead of using a "flushing" machine.
Let us know-this is interesting and hope it all works out without a hit to the bank account.
I have visited Auto Zone today and they were nice enough to read the codes for me. Here they are: 1. P0300 - random cylinder misfired 2. P0304 - cylinder 4 misfired 3. P0306 - cylinder 6 misfired 4. P1399 - unknown / manufacturer specific
The transmission flush was done in Jiffy Lube and it was done not long before we hit the road. According to them it was a FULL flush and cost me around $100. I don't know if any solvent was used.
Can anyone interpret the codes for me? Could this be fuel related? While on vacation my 98 LX-V6 Accord lived quite random fueling life. At home I usually fuel it in same place.
As I mentioned earlier the Check Engine started flashing on a highway and the tachometer was showing 4000rpm on 80mph. I am not sure if the Drive Shift was in the right position (D4) or I accidentally shifted it down to D3. I pulled over and found nothing. I was on the road in 5 minutes and the tachometer was back to normal 2600rpm. The Check Engine light stopped flashing but was and is still on.
How can I reset the OBD computer? I have tried to pull out ECU (ECM/PCM) fuse for a minute or so but it didn't clear the Engine Check light. I did it with the engine shut down. Thanks.
The codes P0301-6 indicates misfires-my manual does not have the 0300 code but does list a bunch of possible causes with fuel problems being at the head of the list including not meeting specifications and out of fuel-line clogging and so forth. Could be a clogged fuel filter-if this is the case-maybe u got some contaminated fuel.
No info on code 1339. I would call jiffy lube immediately and find out what kind of atf they used-if anything else other than honda ATF-drain it out immediately and replace it with honda atf-drive 50 miles and do it again and then maybe a third time. I would bet those people used their standard generic atf which will harm your tranny.
Would not drive any more than necessary till u get the tranny fluid changed. It is easy to do yourself-change it when it is hot-be careful it will burn you-the drain plug is on the bottom of the tranny on the passenger side. The atf is refilled thru the check hole-the yellow handled thingy on the front of the tranny on the passenger side forward of the tranny.
My EX is making same noise but only going into drive from rev or park .Not when going into reverse. Honda said they will look at it in my upcoming recall appointment, but that it is due to the calipers "waking up" / "setting for first time". However, I back out of my garage and pump the brakes many times before putting it into drive at the bottom of the driveway and it still happens, even if my foot is on the brake when I shift. It is like one second after I move the shifter you hear this cah-click. I have noticed that it goes away sometimes when it has been driven for some time....but not always. Also, you can repeat it several times at once, which means the calipers "wake up" many times in one morning??Like a snooze button maybe?? hehe. Once when facing uphill on the driveway I also noticed the tranny was making louder than usual noises when I went from park to drive to park to drive....all with the brake engaged....it was like clink clank into and out of gear. Never happened again.
P1399 is truly an unknown code as I havnt seen it and cant find any info on it. The others are typical misfire codes and can be causes by fuel issues, tight valves, coil packs, injectors,EGR and a few others. Have the light cleared and see if it returns with the same codes same cylynder , different cylynders or completly new code(s). Why didnt Autozone clear them while they were pulling them? Disconnecting the battery usally works but if not then you will need to get them cleared by the tester that pulls them. As for the trans thing, it really sounds as if the car was in D3 or D2 and that the catalytic converter was overheating which is what causes the light to flash. That in itself could have caused a misfire. Which is why you should clear them and see if it returns...Good luck
Thanks, auburn63. This is what I am coming to also. I must have left the gear in D3 and that caused overload and failure of the ignition system. I will try disconnecting battery to clear the code and see if it comes back any time soon.
It just slipped my mind that the OBD tool the guy in Autozone used can also clear the Check Engine light. That is why I didn't ask them to do so.
My first car was new Toyota Corolla. My wife is driving it now. I bought Honda Accord when it was already 3-4 years old and all these self-repair issues are kind of new to me. But that is OK. I am a fast learner and it saves a lot to buy an older car. With 2 kids and a house I find it very helpful.
It makes little sense that brakes would emit a mechnical clanking noise. Metal does not hit metal. My prior 2 Accords (stick shift, no ABS) and my other's CRV (same engine, tranny and ABS) were/are silent.
I dropped and picked up my car today at my local honda dealer!!
These are the codes they told me they pulled out for the engine check light: P0740 P0700 They told me the water pump is leaking??? and the transmission solinoids are bad. About $300 for the trans solinoids About $450-500 for the water pump including timing belt.. plus tax.
=>I actually haven't noticed any decrease in coolant or any visible leaks... Service advisor told me that the leak is not bad but to keep an eye on it... offcourse my timing belt change is approaching, so I decided that can wait anyways. Auburn63: what do you think about those codes, meaning etc.. maybe you can elaborate better.. anybody???
I was thinking of getting my tranny fluid flushed and refilled before doing anything first. Haven't done that since I bought the car in 1999. So far I've driven the car about 35 miles w/out the check light coming on.
*** 1997 Honda Accord EX sedan, w/ 85,7xx miles ***
(To add insult to my already visible engine check light): My Driver Side (L/F)Power Window Regulator also went bad on me last week... Window got stuck almost half way.. started with grinding noise coming down & up to a certain point then just stuck and wouldn't budge. It had been coming anyways... usually was slow going up especially on cold temp days.. but a little silicon spray made it better for a little while (since May).. well, until last week. Anyways, removed the window regulator opened the motor thing. The cable that pulls it up was frayed and spliced in places and got jammed. Ordered another Regulator, waiting to receive the shipment. Hope my Window Switch isn't messed up too. Will find out soon ;-) Anyway, accex18, I don't think installing the Regulator is difficult, just do the opposite of what you did removing... taking care not to break the window when putting it back... I had to cut off the frayed part of my regulator and put it back together in order to have the window up before getting the new one.. and it wasn't difficult putting the regulator back on. Good Luck on Yours.
Tried to reply to you last night but the site was being updated so I couldnt. Anyhow the timing belt price is about right for most areas but the cost of the trans code work should be part of your emissions extension warranty. Unless of course your warranty has been canceled due to an accident or something. I can run the VIN if you want me to check and se. The extension covers transmission solenoids, code retrieval and clearing, and if necessary a trans control unit. This is free of charge for 14 years or 150,000 miles. If you havent already had it done you can get a free tune up and oil change also...Good luck
Comments
My front passenger window makes a rattling noise when going over even the slightest bumps in the road. This only happens when the window is all the way up. If the window is down, even a littly bit, the noise is not present. How do I fix this?
Also, when I turn on the AC the compressor(I think) makes a louder than normal clunk noise. What I mean by this is I've never owned a car that made such a loud noise when turning on the AC, especially one this new. The noise is short lived, like 1 second.
thanks!
As for the AC, mine does the same thing, I believe its a normal sound.
My 03 LX V6 has the same problem every time I turn on the AC. Even while I cruise on the highway around 70 and I turn on the AC, Pang there it goes and I feel the car shake a bit. Very annoying. Make me feel the car is lacking power for both the driving and the AC. But V6 is supposed to be more than enough.
Thanks for the reply. I was told by the dealer that semi-metallic bads are used by Honda, and they are supposed to squeak, but when they get hot, it will disappear. Indeed the noise will disappear after several brakings (at least I do not hear it, but it may be after that I am on the highway!).
Don't know if the dealer is being honest to me.
2003 Accord 4-Door – From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A054708
2003 Accord 2-Door – From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A014092. Good luck
by the way close but not close enough for doughnuts to be dropped off, I work in New Jersey but thanks for the thought
It doesn't really bother me that much to be honest. As long as the car drives well and is reliable, a few squeaks here or there won't drive me crazy. If it were happening all the time it would bother me, but this mainly occurs only on really rough roads which I try to avoid anyway. I'm planning on 150K miles plus out of this car anyway, so I'm sure other noises are on the way!
Thanks a lot for the advice. I really appreciate it. Have a great weekend.
=========================================
"What causes brake squeal?
All four brakes have audible brake wear indicators. When the brake pads need replacing, you will hear a distinctive metallic "screeching" sound when you apply the brakes. If you do not have the brake pads replaced, they will begin screeching all the time.
Your brakes may sometimes squeal or squeak when you apply them lightly. Do not confuse this with the brake wear indicators. They make a very audible "screeching."
Occasional noise can be caused by the light application of brakes for a prolonged distance before stopping, or from high relative humidity. These are normally temporary and are considered normal brake noises not requiring repair."
============================================
If you go to https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com you can register your vehicle and view tips on caring for your Honda. You can also pay your bill on line this way. Pretty cool website.
The dealer did that fix, but it made no difference.
Driving me batty...
Also, does anyone else have a musty smell come from the vents "after" using the climate control and then switching to just air circulation via the fan?
Thanks,
I also get the musty smell but I bet that is a normal thing with a/c
Anyways, to cut the long story short: Anybody know what could be wrong with the emissions (what might have gone bad), or what stuff they might have to fix assuming its the emissions thats gone whacky??? Or any thing else that I ought to look into other than the emissions and what I checked?? Any input, suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
*** 1997 Honda Accord Ex, w/ 85 K miles ****
The window problem is a FLAW and I have been going through the paces trying to solve the problem with my dealer. I bought the dealer-installed option of tinted windows, and the dealer has re-tinted them through a local shop they contract with. I've had the DRIVER's windows retinted 4 times, and the window gaskets replaced twice.
I still get SCRATCHES in the window tint, vertically, about 8 inches in length and four inches aft of the leading edge of the window glass. These tend to appear closer to the top of the window glass. It may have been resolved this last trip to the dealer, but I got deployed to the desert and haven't made it home to use the window much yet and see if the problem has stopped.
I'm on the verge of demanding another door, as I really want the window tint but it keeps on getting scraped. It will either come down getting rid of the window tint (money back) or replacing the door.
2003 Accord LX Sedan with 8000 miles.
Now, at about 6000 miles, the brakes are beginning to shudder when applied at speeds over 65 mph or so. I will have to confirm the problem with the dealer, but it appears that the rotors are at fault. I may have to reacquaint myself with my representative at Honda Customer Service.
Other than that, the only other problems are the rattles mentioned elsewhere, very hot key, and out-of-whack thermometer. I can live with all of those, but not with perpetually failing rotors.
I noticed several complaints on the NHTSA site for malfunctioning or nonfunctioning airbags. That's pretty scary. Here's hoping mine are never tested.
The car is very fun to drive, and passengers love it, too. I hope that Honda can resolve these issues in the near future, before the ownership experience is soured.
BTW, what's a HDS tester?
My guess is that the wiring is messed up. In the countries where they drive on the left side, the driver is on the right side and the passenger sensor is on the left side. If the engineers did not rewire the sensor to read the passenger seat (right side in US) sensor to send signal to passenger air bag (right side in US), then it would explain why passenger bag deployed and driver's did not. The system read that the "driver's" seat (right side) was occoupied and deployed "driver's" airbag (right side). The systems still "thinks" that it is being operated in Japan/UK/Australia/India/South Africa ect.
I wonder if people who had passengers in the front seat had both airbags deploy?
If the theory is true, I think someone is about to be fired at Honda. Honda would have to recall ALL of the Left hand driver Accords and replace the SRS wiring harness or re-program the SRS computer.
winbro: I normally tighten my gas cap till it makes the clicking sound (3, 4 times maybe). I believe I did the same that day too, and after the check light came on I opened and tightened again to make sure. Anyways, will post after Thursday once I have the car checked out.
Thanks again.
One time only.
Being pointed downhill and/or rolling forward exacerbate the noise.
Anyone else in this discussion also find that your car does not upshift properly when going downhill?
Did they give you a car to drive?
if anybody has an idea please reply
thx
Clearing out the code takes maybe 15 seconds-on my 97 I just pull out the ecm/PCM fuse-#39 in the corner for 10 seconds and the code is gone-if the dealer is charging 95 to just reset this thing-he is a crook. Mine only charges 65 to read the code including doing the reset-course autozone does it for free.
I have a manual with the key to the code numbers-Auburn63 can put meaning to those codes so let us know what the code numbers are-hopefully no tranny damage.
Does this mean you had one of those machines hooked up to your tranny that "flushes" your tranny with a solvent before replacing the fluid. Was this a independent shop or honda dealer-what tranny fluid did they use-Honda ATF I hope.
IMHO those tranny flush systems can cause big problems if they leave any of the "solvent" in the tranny. Had a CEL code on mine-turned out to be a countershaft speed sensor in the tranny had gone out of tolerance-I "flushed" my tranny anyway with 2 complete changes of Honda ATF with a 50 mile trip between changes.
Anybody else got any concerns about tranny flushes using a solvent?
Also it is possible to disconnect the line running from the ATF cooling coil-connect it to a large jug and while letting the engine idle-let the "used" atf drain into a large clear jug while adding an equal amount of atf at the same time thru the "check" dip stick hole. Sounds like a chinese fire drill but some shops do this instead of using a "flushing" machine.
Let us know-this is interesting and hope it all works out without a hit to the bank account.
1. P0300 - random cylinder misfired
2. P0304 - cylinder 4 misfired
3. P0306 - cylinder 6 misfired
4. P1399 - unknown / manufacturer specific
The transmission flush was done in Jiffy Lube and it was done not long before we hit the road. According to them it was a FULL flush and cost me around $100. I don't know if any solvent was used.
Can anyone interpret the codes for me? Could this be fuel related? While on vacation my 98 LX-V6 Accord lived quite random fueling life. At home I usually fuel it in same place.
As I mentioned earlier the Check Engine started flashing on a highway and the tachometer was showing 4000rpm on 80mph. I am not sure if the Drive Shift was in the right position (D4) or I accidentally shifted it down to D3. I pulled over and found nothing. I was on the road in 5 minutes and the tachometer was back to normal 2600rpm. The Check Engine light stopped flashing but was and is still on.
How can I reset the OBD computer? I have tried to pull out ECU (ECM/PCM) fuse for a minute or so but it didn't clear the Engine Check light. I did it with the engine shut down. Thanks.
No info on code 1339. I would call jiffy lube immediately and find out what kind of atf they used-if anything else other than honda ATF-drain it out immediately and replace it with honda atf-drive 50 miles and do it again and then maybe a third time. I would bet those people used their standard generic atf which will harm your tranny.
Would not drive any more than necessary till u get the tranny fluid changed. It is easy to do yourself-change it when it is hot-be careful it will burn you-the drain plug is on the bottom of the tranny on the passenger side. The atf is refilled thru the check hole-the yellow handled thingy on the front of the tranny on the passenger side forward of the tranny.
Let us know how what you find.
However, I back out of my garage and pump the brakes many times before putting it into drive at the bottom of the driveway and it still happens, even if my foot is on the brake when I shift. It is like one second after I move the shifter you hear this cah-click. I have noticed that it goes away sometimes when it has been driven for some time....but not always.
Also, you can repeat it several times at once, which means the calipers "wake up" many times in one morning??Like a snooze button maybe?? hehe.
Once when facing uphill on the driveway I also noticed the tranny was making louder than usual noises when I went from park to drive to park to drive....all with the brake engaged....it was like clink clank into and out of gear. Never happened again.
As for the trans thing, it really sounds as if the car was in D3 or D2 and that the catalytic converter was overheating which is what causes the light to flash. That in itself could have caused a misfire. Which is why you should clear them and see if it returns...Good luck
It just slipped my mind that the OBD tool the guy in Autozone used can also clear the Check Engine light. That is why I didn't ask them to do so.
My first car was new Toyota Corolla. My wife is driving it now. I bought Honda Accord when it was already 3-4 years old and all these self-repair issues are kind of new to me. But that is OK. I am a fast learner and it saves a lot to buy an older car. With 2 kids and a house I find it very helpful.
It makes little sense that brakes would emit a mechnical clanking noise. Metal does not hit metal. My prior 2 Accords (stick shift, no ABS) and my other's CRV (same engine, tranny and ABS) were/are silent.
There is a Q.A. or build problem here, I think.
These are the codes they told me they pulled out for the engine check light:
P0740
P0700
They told me the water pump is leaking??? and the transmission solinoids are bad.
About $300 for the trans solinoids
About $450-500 for the water pump including timing belt.. plus tax.
=>I actually haven't noticed any decrease in coolant or any visible leaks... Service advisor told me that the leak is not bad but to keep an eye on it... offcourse my timing belt change is approaching, so I decided that can wait anyways.
Auburn63: what do you think about those codes, meaning etc.. maybe you can elaborate better.. anybody???
I was thinking of getting my tranny fluid flushed and refilled before doing anything first. Haven't done that since I bought the car in 1999.
So far I've driven the car about 35 miles w/out the check light coming on.
*** 1997 Honda Accord EX sedan, w/ 85,7xx miles ***
My Driver Side (L/F)Power Window Regulator also went bad on me last week... Window got stuck almost half way.. started with grinding noise coming down & up to a certain point then just stuck and wouldn't budge.
It had been coming anyways... usually was slow going up especially on cold temp days.. but a little silicon spray made it better for a little while (since May).. well, until last week.
Anyways, removed the window regulator opened the motor thing. The cable that pulls it up was frayed and spliced in places and got jammed.
Ordered another Regulator, waiting to receive the shipment. Hope my Window Switch isn't messed up too. Will find out soon ;-)
Anyway, accex18, I don't think installing the Regulator is difficult, just do the opposite of what you did removing... taking care not to break the window when putting it back...
I had to cut off the frayed part of my regulator and put it back together in order to have the window up before getting the new one.. and it wasn't difficult putting the regulator back on.
Good Luck on Yours.
** 1997 Honda Accord Ex, 85k Miles ***