Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

stevem327 · December 2003

I know I'm gonna catch some heat for this, but I would avoid those quick change places. You paid a decent amount of money for your Accord, so it's worth it to take it to the dealer for service.

I've met a number of people who've taken their cars to Jiffy Lube and have driven off with the wrong filter installed or with too much or not enough oil replaced, etc. I remember a special on 20/20 where they showed people with BMW's and Mercedes Benz's that had the filters left off completely or even no oil put back in after draining the old stuff out! Sure, Jiffy Lube would pay for the repairs but do you really wanna go through all of that hassle?

Honda built and designed the car...they are the experts when it comes to maintaining or repairing it.

Just my opinion...don't mean to offend anyone!

auburn63 · December 2003

Honda has a special tool that covers the braided part of your A pipe. The A pipe is very easy to get oil on it and ur will take a while before the smell will burn off which is why they have made this tool. Now not all at the dealers will use the tool but most will atleast avoid oil contact with the pipe as they now it is a potential problem.

gregoryc1 · December 2003

You are correct with regards to this issue. In addition, should something go wrong with the vehicle all your "service records" are in one place. If the problem is an oil related issue, it is their oil and their filter. Life becomes easy! ----Just my opinion. ----Greg

bburton3 · December 2003

Didn't Honda move the filter to a more accessible location in 04, namely in the passenger side front wheel well area making it possible to change the filter without having to jack the sucker up. Think the Oddy filter was also moved.

Yeah I cringe at the thought of having some minimum wage, half trained and totally uninterested kid working in a quick change franchise, change the oil in my Honda. Stripped threads, wrong filter, too much/not enough oil and then what about those people who have their Honda ATF changed-they are totally hosed cause these places do not carry Honda ATF. On two occasions have asked these people of they change ATF in Honda's - answer was yes - and of course our fluid will work just swell in your Honda.

SCAREY

Be careful out there

mikeysoft · December 2003

Yes, I remove the oil filter from under the hood when I change my oil. The filter can also be removed from under the car.

mikefm58 · December 2003

I agree with you 110%. I'd NEVER take any of my vehicles to one of those Jiffy-lube type places. I did once when I was young and foolish. When they were done with the oil/filter change the lady told me you also need these things done (new plugs, wires, dist. cap, etc. etc.). I asked her "How do you know that?", since I had that service done a few months ago. She said "Oh, I don't, but the computer printout says it should be done".

lancerfixer · December 2003

Has anyone had any luck DYIing the replacement of their Accord's starter motor? I'm thinking of making the attempt on my '94 LX 5 speed. Auburn, is there anything I should look out for, or should I not even try this?

Thanks.

fkamla · December 2003

I have owned a 2002 Accord SE Sedan with automatic transmission since it was new. Whenever I bring it to nearly a complete stop and then press on the accelerator, there is a momentary hesitation and subtle jerk as the car shifts into first gear. Is this normal or should my dealer be able to do something for this? Thanks.

tanstafl · December 2003

fkamla: I had the exact same problem with my 02 accord SE back in June. It started out with the same symptoms you describe, hesitation when downshifting to 1st gear during a rolling stop.

Took it to the dealer and was told I had "bad" transmission fluid (car had @25,000 miles). Charged me $60, but there was no improvement.

Brought it back to dealer and they said I needed new shift solenoids (done under warranty).
This didn't fix the problem either, so the dealer ordered a new transmission and gave me the car back. While waiting for the new trans (about 2 weeks) things went downhill quickly: would not upshift into 3rd or 4th, seemed to be stuck in 2nd gear, would intermittently drop out of gear completely, green ring around D4 on the instrument panel blinking incessantly... not safe to drive, so I crawled over to the dealer and left it there till the new trans arrived.

Bottom line, it is only going to get worse. Get the dealer to order you a new trans ASAP.

alcan · December 2003

1994 Accord, Starter
To remove:
Disconnect both battery terminals, negative first.
Disconnect the large cable from the starter motor; label and disconnect the wiring to the starter solenoid. Certain engine/transmission combinations have an engine harness secured in a clip on the starter or transaxle. Remove the harness from the clip and position it out of the way.
Remove the starter motor by loosening the attaching bolts.

To install:
To install, reverse the removal procedures. Tighten the starter-to-engine bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm) on the Accord V-6 and 32 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) on other models.
Connect the wiring to the starter securely.
Connect the battery cables, positive cable first.

zhengying · December 2003

I got my 03 EX v6 w/3600mi, I only feel clunking brake during snow (when TCS is engaged), but recently whenever I push brake a bit harder, I can feel it, is it normal on all TCS equiped model, or Honda has quality problem?

jebinc1 · December 2003

That's your ABS doing its job.

stevem327 · December 2003

Thanks for your kind words. I thought I'd see about 20 posts on here telling me what a moron I am to pay the extra money to have a Honda dealer do a simple oil change.

I have to admit though, it is tempting sometimes to stop at a Jiffy Lube place. They're cheap, convenient, have better hours than a dealer...but I just don't want to take the risk and have to go through all the hassle if they mess it up and something really gets damaged. Insurance companies, lawyers, phone calls...forget it. This 20/20 episode showed a Mercedes where the oil shop had managed to drop a loose screw into the crank case (and then resealed the case before the guy drove off). It caused over $7,000 worth of damage to the engine!

You pay more for service at a Honda dealership, but I look at it as a form of insurance. I let them do all the service and factory recommended maintenance, and if my transmission or engine dies at 99,000 miles...guess what? I did my part under the terms of the extended warranty and they gotta fix it.

bburton3 · December 2003

Don't know if the thought of changing your own oil even is a possibility-have done it in rain, snow and -25F but it is not difficult. I can change the oil and filter in less than 15 minutes on my 97 accord. On pre 04 accords you will need a floor jack and use a jack stand for safety. I have several 6 gallon plastic tanks with handles and when they get full-take them to a local repair place that burns motor oil for heating. They are real happy to see you a month or so into heating season. Am doing the get rid of the used oil bit this weekend with about 20 gallons of motor and tranny oil/fluid.

lancerfixer · December 2003

I'm feeling kinda dumb right now. A can of battery terminal cleaner seems to have done the trick. I'll keep you posted.

chucko3 · December 2003

Believe or not. It costs more to have the oil changed at Jiffy Lube.
Honda dealer charges $26 and changes (tax included). Jiffy charges $30+.

cota99 · December 2003

Hi. I took my car in to a local mechanic because the needle went all the way up to Hot. I was told by the mechanic that I need a new water pump and the "heads" need to be fixed (I don't know what that means, exactly.) I was quoted a price of $750. Is that too much? What is a fair price for that kind of work? By the way, the car is a 1996 Accord LX auto. with 130,000 miles. I always change the oil, and have a tune up done yearly. This car has given this struggling college student so many problems

. Next time I buy a car, it won't be a Honda.

bd21 · December 2003

I'm assuming you have a 4 cylinder engine, which means you only have one head. When you overheat you car, many times the cause is a bad head gasket. Over heating can also damage the head, which is made out of aluminum. The the head has your valves, camshaft and spark plugs in it. Normally, the minimum maintenance for your problem would be to replace the head gasket and water pump. They may have to resurface the head too if is warped. $750 to get you up and running again is a fair price. Good luck.

chucko3 · December 2003

Back in the late 80, when I overheated my Pontiac Sunbird, it cost me over $1500 to do the head gasket & the water pump.
So $750 is a good price. At 130k miles if you haven't replaced the timing belt yet, it's better to do it now too.

isellhondas · December 2003

If you continue to drive a car after it's overheating you will no doubt damage the engine in some way. It sounds like you blew a head gasket or warped the head.

This will happen on ANY make or model and not just a Honda.

And, I agree, the price sounds fair. Unless your timing belt is almost new I would have them change it while it's apart.

ral2167 · December 2003

i understand if you're leaning to not buy another honda, but did you buy this car new or used?

if you bought it used, i'd suggest not to be so quick to decide never to buy a honda, since previous owner(s) may have abused the car....

on the other hand, if you bought it new, getting 130,000 miles on the car isn't all that bad-- but i can at least understand better any ill will if you were the only driver of the car and knew you hadn't abused it..

am i nuts?

clint98v6at · December 2003

Your transmission may not be bad. Has the hesitation gotten any worse since you first purchased the vehicle? If not, I would suspect that it is a "normal" Honda automatic transmission. I have the same experience with my 98. Honda automatics are just not as smooth as the domestics. If your transmission is noticeably more "jerky" than when you purchased the car, then I would have it checked out. If not, it's probably "normal".

bburton3 · December 2003

Make certain the heads are warped before letting anyone grind them. Easy to tell-plugs will foul quickly-also with the engine cold-pull off the radiator cap-make sure the coolant is full up to the neck and then start the engine-if the coolant jumps up-then you are getting exhaust gas into the coolant but if not-no exhaust is making it's way into the coolant.

$750 is a fair price to mill heads but this is a very tricky repair job with few getting any success at all-once warped - head(s) are tough to get right again. This job IMHO is way beyond most gas station mechanics-just torquing the heads back is not simple-bet they don't even have a shop manual-would not let them touch it.

kl3415 · December 2003

I'm experiencing heavy vibration in the end of my '97 accord when I apply the brake. My first thought was need a brake job and rotors needed to be turned. Called the dealer ($178.95) Does that seem reasonable?

billyperks · December 2003

I drove my wife's Accord today and went out for a quick lunch.Upon reaching my destination (less than a mile) a rotten egg scent was smelt in the car.

I know there were discussions on this-what was the verdict.

Her model is 04 EX-L 4CYCL SEDAN.

kendrid · December 2003

My 04 LX 4cyl has done it about 4 times now, the most recent being this morning. I have not had a chance to bring it to the dealer yet. I probably will sometime early next week. I will let everyone know what I hear from them.

justin · December 2003

winder grade gas contains something that causes some cars to smell from time to time. i don't think anything is actually wrong. happens to a lot of cars lately, including Toyota.

billyperks · December 2003

Can you refer me to some sort of literature that explains this.

silverk21 · December 2003

Has to do with sulfur content I believe. Try epa.gov for info.

dust90 · December 2003

A lot of new cars seem to have this problem(if it is a problem) and it is indeed a result of high sulphur content in the fuel. The cat converter turns some of the exhaust into sulfur dioxide(commonly known as rotten egg gas). I have smelled it when following many different makes of cars. The new 4Runners had a lot of complaints from owners about this. Check out the 4Runner forums. But, most of the complainers were trying to run with the back window down, which lets exhaust in the vehicle. A few states have mandated low-sulphur fuel(Cal for one) and they don't seem to have the problem. There is really nothing wrong with your car.

kendrid · December 2003

An uncle of mine has a 04 Dodge Ram Hemi. It also has a sulfer smell on occassion.

lelandhendrix · December 2003

From what you describe, the rotors are the prime culprit.

However, I think you can get the job done for less. Call a couple of other shops and just tell them what you want done and see what price they give you. Ask about replacing pads and resurfacing rotors.

The reason I suggest finding a better price is because this is a pretty simple job. Even ask around amongst friends and co-workers about a privately owned shop that does reputable work at fair prices.

auburn63 · December 2003

Dang, you miss a day or 2 and there is so much to catch up on every now and then...If you ever do need to try it they are not hard at all so you will be able to do the job if you choose too.

sunangela · December 2003

It's 1994 Accord equipped with Nippondenso radiator. I have new radiator cap and upper hose put on at the dealer this summer, but it is now leaking out again from the radiator cap. I can see steam from outside the hood. What's wrong? The cap seems fine. I don't see how another new cap is going to solve the problem.

stevem327 · December 2003

I used to have a Toyota Corolla that was a breeze when it came to oil changes. The filter was about halfway down towards the front of the engine so there was no need for jack stands or anything. You could loosen it from either the top or bottom then you just drained the oil. I did my own oil changes on that car for the entire time I owned it (cost me about $10 total).

But the Accord's filter is impossible to remove unless you have the jack and stand so I've all but given up on doing it myself. I have a conspiracy theory that Honda deliberately designed their engines like this to discourage people from doing their own oil changes (that way their service departments make more money)!

chucko3 · December 2003

Has anyone done this yourself?
Is there anything I should watch out for (gas under pressure, breaking the hoses, etc.)?
I don't have the service manual for the 89 Accord LXi.
It looks simple to replace it.
The dealer charges ~60 bucks ($20 for the filter).
I know I can get 14 bucks on line.
Thanks.

anonymousposts · December 2003

If Honda wanted to discourage people from doing their own oil changes then they would've done more than design it to where you need a jack and stand to do it.

dust90 · December 2003

You don't give much info!
What is your coolant guage reading?
How long since coolant has been changed?
Maybe the radiator is clogged and needs cleaning.
Maybe water pump is failing.
The cooling system is made up of many different parts & one weak one can upset the system.
Good luck

jdickens1 · December 2003

I have a 1992 accord. Today, when I started the engine I heard a whinning noise. I drove about a mile down the road and the transmission stopped pulling. I checked the fluid level and it was full. I started the car again and it started pulling. About a mile later it stopped pulling again. Is it a bad transmission?

mikeysoft · December 2003

You must be talking about the V6. You can get the oil filter for the 4 cylinder from top or bottom.

chucko3 · December 2003

I guess they did it to my 89 Accord. ;-)
I need a lift and a stand to replace the oil filter. I have a stand, but no lift. A jack won't cut it.

bd21 · December 2003

Yes, it sounds like a transmission. You are looking at $1,500 to $2,500 for the repair at an AMMCO type transmission place or more at a Honda dealer. It just depends how bad it is, but I'm giving you prices that are realistic. Good luck!

bburton3 · December 2003

Do not go to one of those franchise tranny repair places-if you do you are playing a form of Russian Roulette with 5 of the 6 chambers loaded. There are independent rebuilders that know their stuff and also another possibility is finding a used tranny from a junk yard.

kendrid · December 2003

With my old car (Olds Intrigue) the dealer wanted $2600 to replace the trans (it was ocassionaly shifting rough).

The local shop I brought it to fixed it for $400. There was a TSB about the problem I was having that exactly described it and said how to fix it. The little shop had the TSB and the GM dealer didn't (or didn't care).

Definetly shop around. Even if you had to tow the car to another shop it would probably end up being worth it.

sunangela · December 2003

What is your coolant guage reading?
no problem yet. The leak is about 1 qts, so it's not empty. Although this summer I had both a/c and radiator fans failed one after another and the thing was overheating a few times.

How long since coolant has been changed?
just changed this summer. And I am putting in qt by qt lately

Maybe the radiator is clogged and needs cleaning.
- I actually flushed with distilled water before refilling the radiator this summer.

Maybe water pump is failing.
- well, it's due for 3rd timing belt at ~295 k miles. But how can I know for sure? How much worse can it get if it is indeed the water pump? Despite the mileage, the engine does not feel old at all. On the other hand, I have at least $1500 repair to do - timing belt/water pump, crack winshield, failing speedometer, and tires. Just not sure what to do with it this point. I really like to have it get over this winter.

The cooling system is made up of many different parts & one weak one can upset the system.

dust90 · December 2003

Whew! 295K miles! Get the radiator checked at a Radiator shop. Flushing with distilled water does little or nothing. A professional radiator shop will flush with an acid solution that will remove accumlated scale, sludge, etc. Also, be sure to add coolant mixed to 50/50, water/antifreeze.
The other possibility, since the engine overheated a time or two, is that you have a leak in a head gasket and are getting some compression blow-by from the cylinders into the cooling system. Any good repair shop can check this by pressurizing the cylinders and watching for bubbles in the radiator. Good luck, but it may be time to replace the whole car.

adam2000 · December 2003

I own Handa Accord 2000, and after 35,000 tousand miles i stard having problems with the front end vibrations between 60 and 80 m/h.I went to different mechanics, but none of them knew what is going on with the car. I satred to change one by one all parts. Allready, I end up changeing all the fallowing parts:shocks,springs,rotors,wheele boring,wheele hub,shaft assy(axel),robber trans mtg,tires,booljoin, Please help me to resolve the problem

cota99 · December 2003

Thanks to every for replies! I bought my 1996 Accord in 2002 mainly used for commuting to school. My mechanic and I agreed that a price of $600 was fair, from $750. That, however, does not include a new/refurbished pump because I had just changed that last year. The belts were also changed last year. The head was warped, so it had to be sent for fixing! Should I just go ahead and have the belts and water pump changed? Thanks again!!!

auburn63 · December 2003

If your vibration problems are driving along at 60-80mph and you are not braking at the time then most likely you have a balance problem. Sometimes it could be in the tire itself but if I am reading your post correctly the tires are new so I would inspect the rim for damage or go to a good tire shop and have them do a road force measurement on the tire and rim. This will help get to the root of the problem. If there while braking then you will most likely need a rotor cut and or new rotors..Good luck

kendawg · December 2003

I too suffered from "console squeak"-took forever to locate it. Finally tracked it down to the seam between the "wood" grained trim (in my case) and the black plastic trim to the left of the shifter. A little WD-40 in the seams around the shifter totally stopped all squeaks. Peace at last. Now, to get the "seat shift" fixed, thanks to other posts.

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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