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After waiting two hours for the tire change, etc., I walked back to find out what the hold up was and it was just completed - they apologized saying the mirror buffing and seat shim took longer. I admitted I was surprised - I was sure they were going to tell me I was crazy, that the seat was fine, and the response was, "Oh no, your seat was shifting! It doesn't now, and let us know immediately if it happens again." There was no added mileage on the car, so they figured it out without driving it (though pushing on the seat didn't move it.)
If this helps any: they used FP-number 81599-S84-999 Shim Set 90410 (I don't know if the part numbers are internal or Honda)
...and no, it's NOT possible that they did nothing, and simply placated me, because it really *doesn't* shift at all now.
If no clunk, then after you've waited about 20-30 seconds of being on, THEN start the car and note how long it takes before you hear the sound. Let us know if you feel the clunk as well, and if you feel it in the pedals or the wheel.
I turned on the ignition and the car started cranking. But, within a few tries (less than 10 cranks) the car fired up. I dont use the car on the highway and my commute is only 4miles. This is happening each time I cold start the car (after 10-12 hours).
This morning, I intentionally started out late at around 11am to see if the bright sun might help me a little. The car cranked for 5-6 times (generally it starts within 3). After 6 of such starts, the car came to life. The battery light is lit, dashboard shows no red lights. This seems to happen ONLY when its really cold, anythoughts.
I went through pages 204,205,206 starting from my post 4027. I confess that I dont understand many of the things spoken since I aint that technical. Since my warranty has expired, I cant take it to the dealer but will try a local mechanic.
crunchy sounds coming from the overhead visors area, door panels, and the window(passenger side) rattling. After the car has been in for repairs 4 or 5 times for the same problem, it has not been fixed yet. Will appreciate much if someone who experienced the same, can share.
Thanks.
As a result, the battery has weakened at a faster than usual rate. Low temperatures have an added weakening effect on the battery.
Just replace with a new battery, one with higher amperage (store will know this) for added cranking juice.
Thanks Angie
Anyway, I figured out a NEW WAY to test my car out. I figure, if I am on a straight road, I should be able to hold the steering wheel straight - or at least still - and stay in my lane. I CAN'T. I tried it out on the highway, on a long straight stretch. After varied amounts of time (seconds), the car will suddenly change lanes, and I am holding the steering wheel still. It goes to the left or the right. It actually moved like I had turned the wheel to change lanes twice before I ran out of straight highway. Honda can't tell me this is right, can they???
Any comments on the validity of my steering test would be appreciated. Sorry I rambled. Too tired to edit tonight.
I am trying to diagnose because the service manager told me he was going to realign the car a 5th time to fix the wavering back and forth. When I picked up the car after the fifth repair (fourth alignment)which included the subframe shift and an alignment, the service manager told me they corrected for road crown so if I drive in the left lane, the car may drift left - he also said the car was driving straight down the road. When I called him the next day to say it did different things on every highway, his response was - see, there is the problem, every road is different, you can't expect us to align a car to drive straight on every road. He then said if I brought it in, he would take out the road crown adjustment and that was about all he could do.
I had a car that drove straight on all these roads before. Oh what a feeling.
I will continue to test drive
Have fun guys!
I'm certainly no expert, but this doesn't sound like an alignment issue anymore. I had this problem once before in a car but after it had a few thousand miles and had hit a curb. There was something I described as 'play' in the steering, which let the wheels move the slightest bit while the steering whas held solidly still. I wish I could remember what ended up being the issue, but I do remember that my 'rack-and-pinion' steering had to have some parts replaced, and maybe some tie rods. Maybe your service department could investigate from the lugs inward toward the steering column.
I sure hope you get this worked out, because I'm sure this is ruining an otherwise great enjoyment of a new car.
Good luck.
NOW HEAR THIS_DO NOT USE PARKING BRAKES IN WINTER WEATHER. The garage will want to replace your brake shoes regardless and it will cost you probably $100 to get it fixed if they are not crooks. I never ever use my parking brake-no need with an auto tranny. Oh I do use it when jacking up the front end to change oil or rotate tires.
Good luck and hope others learn from your adventure.
I have been hearing a Squeal by the Front Passenger Side. When I first start the car, I don't hear it. When the car is warmed up, I do.
I only hear the noise when I am at a stop. Rev the engine, I can't here any more. Probably when I am driving, noise drowns it out. It seems to get worse when I turn the steering wheel when I am at a stop. Which makes me think it could do something with power steering.
I think it could be the belt, or the alternator. The noise seems to come from their.
I brought it in for service. Of course the squeal was barely hearable then, but it was still their. The guy told me its normal. I am skeptic of his answer.
My Question is if that noise is normal?
Do you hear that noise, when your 4cyl is idle?
It will bring me to a piece of mind if I know other people hear it, and that its normal.
I would check the tension of the steering belt.
My 89 Accord the P/S belt was so loose. Every time I turned the steering wheel at stop, it made a squeaking noise and slipped some time.
After I had the timing belt job (all belts & water pump replaced) done, the noise was gone & no more slipping.
The car has 120,000 miles on it and the mechanics say that the engine & body are in very good shape. It's had very few problems over the years; almost all the money I've put into it has been for consumables. The car is extremely reliable, and I would love to keep it, but don't know if it's worth it to put a couple thousand into the transmission.
Thanks for any input or suggestions.
personally, i'd get something newer-- something with airbags-- antilock brakes.... you never know when something happens where you would want a car with airbags or some other safety features not around in the 80s--
just my two cents...
Barry S.
$300 - $500 is about 1 or 2 months of a car payment. If you can get three months out of the fixed transmission you have come out ahead.
It sounds like the car is suiting your needs and if the safety issues and creature comnforts of a new car are not important to you, then keep it. But if the new transmission is going to cost $2000+ to replace then you are taking the risk that the car will last another 6 or 7 months without another major expense. On a 17 year old car that is too moch of a risk for me.
I agree with the others here, it's probably time to say good bye.
If you could somehow find a known good used transmission that could be an option.
What if after you replace the tranny & the suspension, the engine goes dead? And someone already mentioned what if the car is total after you repair it.
I know it's an extremely reliable car. I have an 89 LXi with 195k miles and it's still going. Own it since Dec 88. The engine is a bit tired. It probably needs a major tune up. Also start hearing a whislting sound from the engine comparment. Tranny problem? Just passed emission & saftety tests. Hopefully I can keep it going for another year.
I don't mind to spend a couple hundred bucks and keep it going for several months. But for a couple thousands, it's time to retire it.
It's time to go shopping! My great experience with my old Accord puts the 2004 model at the top of my test-drive list.
Should I be concerned about replacing this filter for the A/C? I hate paying for "them" to do it!
With the 2003:
1. Open glove box
2. Disconnect damper on right side of glove box.
3. Push in on both sides of the back of the glove box to get past the catch point. The glove box will then pivot down.
4. Remove the air filter and replace.
1) Lately, whenever I engage the turn signals the Speedometer briefly drops to 0 and the Tach goes pretty crazy, bouncing up and down seemingly in time with the turn signal.
2) Only in cold weather really, the car does not register park on the dash (no lighted box around P) and the key will not come out, since I guess it still thinks I am in a running gear. Also, engaging reverse seems to take longer and I dont always get a lit box around that for quite some time.
3) When its really really cold out, there is a clunk from the passenger side front wheel. Frozen strut or something? It usually stops after the car has been going for a bit.
4) It runs 70mph at about 3000rpm. I dont think it used to run up the rpms that quickly.
5) Sometimes at idle (only after a cold start) the rpms fluctuate up and down since the idle speed kicks up and down. The fluctuation gets faster until ultimately it stops entirely when the engine is warm. Sounds like someone is revving it, but obviously no one is.
As a side note, I replaced the TCU with a salvage yard pull (from a yard I always have gone to), but that was back in late summer when I posted about the car not finding any gears beyond 2nd and flashing a sport-shift warning light. Problems 1 and 4 are new, the others i have had since before the TCU replacement. I listed them in decreasing order of importance.
Thanks guys!
1. Haven't seen this yet.
2. Happened couple times last winter (under extremly cold weather). Start the car again, shift it out of Park, then shift back to Park. See if the Park light comes on.
3. Yes, on a few occasions under cold weather.
4. 70 mph at ~3k RPM. That's what my car has.
5. Saw it a couple times too.
That's why I want to have my (old) car warmed up a bit longer in the winter before driving it.
Sounds like your Honda is getting tired too!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2..could be the TCU or more likely the gear position switch(some times called a shift inhibitor switch)located on the side of the shifter. Also could just be a cable adjustment.
3..is the noise while driving or shifting into gear? If while driving then suspect a bad strut or ball joint.
4..the rpm is close to what it should be. If you know it is higher then the trans may not be going into lockup. Hows the gas mileage been?
5..Sounds like a bad IAC(Idle Air Control valve) or a fast idle valve. There is a way to diag if you are familiar with the system..
2)For chucko3, I've tried that. Sometimes is works sometimes it doesn't. Jiggling the shifter also sometimes pops the indicator on and then i can remove my key. Otherwise I leave it in for a while and eventually I am able to remove it. Sometimes it's a long while though. By reading some posts I saw that it might be a bad brake switch, a bad shift position switch or a bad TCU. I have a service manual and don't mind digging in. Definitely open to ideas.
3) Never while shifting, only when driving and only when I hit a bump on the passenger side in the front. A friend and I thought perhaps the strut, but we are not mechanics. Not even good shadetree ones.
4) Best gas mileage is 25mpg. Seems kinda sad, my 88 Regal got better and that car was a mess. (As for the tired GM products....they're cheap and I need the $ for college. My GMs werent half as tight as my Accord and handled like boats in comparison, but they took a beating and toted 6 people with ease. I'm not saying anything about the Accord, but I am no domestic hater.)
5) Thanks for all the help auburn, you are the alcan (bonneville boards) of the honda forums. I think was your advice to someone else about a similar problem, just kindly let me know if this is what to do. "It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. Valve will run about $210. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place."
Thanks everybody, happy motoring.