Hi, I noticed the same issue on my 04 EX V6. Seat shifts on hard left turns. Do you think this issue is known by all dealers? Im getting ready for them to look at me like im nuts when I tell them about this. I suppose if they have a shim kit that it may be a known problem.
Sorry - I don't know if there was a TSB about it or not.
After waiting two hours for the tire change, etc., I walked back to find out what the hold up was and it was just completed - they apologized saying the mirror buffing and seat shim took longer. I admitted I was surprised - I was sure they were going to tell me I was crazy, that the seat was fine, and the response was, "Oh no, your seat was shifting! It doesn't now, and let us know immediately if it happens again." There was no added mileage on the car, so they figured it out without driving it (though pushing on the seat didn't move it.)
If this helps any: they used FP-number 81599-S84-999 Shim Set 90410 (I don't know if the part numbers are internal or Honda)
...and no, it's NOT possible that they did nothing, and simply placated me, because it really *doesn't* shift at all now.
for about a week now, I hear a CLUNK when I start my car. I have an 03 Accord EX, 4 cyl. This clunk is still intermittent. I think it happens right before the car starts. Its disturbing. I know this is vague, but does anyone have any ideas?
Try turning the car but don't start it (all the lights come on) for about 15-30 seconds. Does the clunk occur then, before you activate the starter? If so, turn the car back off and then on again and see if it duplicates without ever starting the car.
If no clunk, then after you've waited about 20-30 seconds of being on, THEN start the car and note how long it takes before you hear the sound. Let us know if you feel the clunk as well, and if you feel it in the pedals or the wheel.
that doesn't seem right... I've gottn over 40mpg on the highway in my 4cyl EX... It's a manual, but it shouldn't matter since the final drive ratios are about the same(I think they are the same)... On all highway driving(all 55-65mph) try setting the cruise control and just being easy with the gas... about the only time my mileage dips down that far on the highway is when I basically drive in 3rd and 4th gear because someone seriously irritates me...
OMG, its back again and I had nightmares all through last night. Temperature in the boston area dropped very sharply 2 days back and I approaced my 2k Accord SE, 25k miles (warranty expired a month back!) with skepticism.
I turned on the ignition and the car started cranking. But, within a few tries (less than 10 cranks) the car fired up. I dont use the car on the highway and my commute is only 4miles. This is happening each time I cold start the car (after 10-12 hours).
This morning, I intentionally started out late at around 11am to see if the bright sun might help me a little. The car cranked for 5-6 times (generally it starts within 3). After 6 of such starts, the car came to life. The battery light is lit, dashboard shows no red lights. This seems to happen ONLY when its really cold, anythoughts.
I went through pages 204,205,206 starting from my post 4027. I confess that I dont understand many of the things spoken since I aint that technical. Since my warranty has expired, I cant take it to the dealer but will try a local mechanic.
I was wondering if anyone else has also been the same problem with accord 03 that I do. crunchy sounds coming from the overhead visors area, door panels, and the window(passenger side) rattling. After the car has been in for repairs 4 or 5 times for the same problem, it has not been fixed yet. Will appreciate much if someone who experienced the same, can share. Thanks.
Since you drive only 4 miles each way, the most likely scenario is that the battery is unable to charge fully, especially after the power-sapping morning start and at night with all lights on.
As a result, the battery has weakened at a faster than usual rate. Low temperatures have an added weakening effect on the battery.
Just replace with a new battery, one with higher amperage (store will know this) for added cranking juice.
We recently went to an Accord from a Dodge Grand Caravan (the other car is a Toyota Highlander) and the wife is complaining the power passenger seat is too low and not adjustable for height (she sits on a pillow). Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the seat height (permanently) with spacers or washers and where this might get done (type of business)? Thanks for the help.
My front passenger window rattled since the car was new (July 2003)& was driving me crazy. Then I realized that if I just hit the down button the slightest amount possible, the rattle went away, but the window is still sealed from wind & rain. Regarding the crunching noise by the sun visors, I also had that. It came from the adhesive holding the headliner in place. The sound went away after about 3 months in my car. Good luck!
When I start the car in very cold temperature, everything is slow, including the engine. You can hear it take longer to start, the LCD display responses slower.
Hi, I am having a problem with my 92 honda accord, Went to turn in on a little while ago and now it is stuck in the start position and won't turn,, My key comes out but Car stays in start,, Had to put it in drive with the ebrake on because when in park starter engages. Does anybody know how to fix this so i can turn off my car? Thanks Angie
Thanks for your response. I tried what you said. No clunk on turning the ignition on. Only a whir sound which is probably a good thing. I noticed this clunk happens after the car turns over and occurs as it is turning on. Its subtle. Sometimes louder then others, sometimes I don't hear it at all. To guess I would say maybe I hear it from the steering wheel?? It has a sound like hard plastic if that makes any sense. This is subtle, and I almost think its normal - but I would expect NORMAL to happen every time, not intermittently. What do you think?
I have had 4 unsuccessful alignments. The car is left with a drift right for two seconds then pull left for 1 second. They balance out to stay in the lane for a little while, sometimes. I wrote about this in September. Haven't been able to take it in yet. I will real soon. I called American Honda and said if 4 alignments haven't fixed the problem, maybe its not the alignment. My second set of tires are also feathering. Anyway, I asked Honda to send an engineer to check out car so they can fix it already, saying maybe there is something in the steering? Honda said I have to bring the car in once to let them see if there is anything wrong, and then a second time for the engineer if they think one is required. They must think I have nothing better to do, then bring my car in.(been in 6 times, 5th time was supposed to fix everything) Sorry, I am sensitive about this.
Anyway, I figured out a NEW WAY to test my car out. I figure, if I am on a straight road, I should be able to hold the steering wheel straight - or at least still - and stay in my lane. I CAN'T. I tried it out on the highway, on a long straight stretch. After varied amounts of time (seconds), the car will suddenly change lanes, and I am holding the steering wheel still. It goes to the left or the right. It actually moved like I had turned the wheel to change lanes twice before I ran out of straight highway. Honda can't tell me this is right, can they???
Any comments on the validity of my steering test would be appreciated. Sorry I rambled. Too tired to edit tonight.
I think your test is fine in general, but road conditions DO matter. If you know what 'crowning' is, you have to be aware of it. All cars will react to it, as it is an effect of gravity. It should be subtle though, and the car shouldn't SUDDENLY change direction without command.
car has gone off to the left as well as to the right with steering wheel fixed in place. Also hard to find a time to hold it still because I constantly have to correct the steering to stay in my lane. I'm pretty sure I know what road crown is. I am testing on some relatively level roads. Either way, this car is still going left and right on its own on roads where it should track straight. Also, before Honda did the subframe shift, the car was drifting to the right 50% of the time and occasionally to the left. All of my tests are on sections of road that were fine with my previous cars.
I am trying to diagnose because the service manager told me he was going to realign the car a 5th time to fix the wavering back and forth. When I picked up the car after the fifth repair (fourth alignment)which included the subframe shift and an alignment, the service manager told me they corrected for road crown so if I drive in the left lane, the car may drift left - he also said the car was driving straight down the road. When I called him the next day to say it did different things on every highway, his response was - see, there is the problem, every road is different, you can't expect us to align a car to drive straight on every road. He then said if I brought it in, he would take out the road crown adjustment and that was about all he could do.
I had a car that drove straight on all these roads before. Oh what a feeling.
I have a 2000 Accord EX V6 with 48,000 miles. In the last month or two, it has had the smell of gas on 3 or 4 occassions. It only last for short period of time and does NOT coincide with putting gas in the car. It has been noticed both while driving and while the car is in the garage. Any suggestions?
A few days back I was driving with my wife in our 03 LX V6. She opened the rear window to get in some fresh air before merging into highway. When I get 80mph, I asked her why she did not close the window because it was creating such big noise. She told me it was closed!
help! My 2001 auto Accord has been sitting outside idle(i start it up only occasionally)I can release the parking brake which feels very tight but car won't budge when put in gear. i was told parking brake cable might be frozen from car being idle. How can i rectify the situation without having it towed to dealer? i live in CT and temps are cold here now. The car shifts fine.
whonew--I certainly didn't mean to insult regarding the road crown. I apologize if I seemed that way.
I'm certainly no expert, but this doesn't sound like an alignment issue anymore. I had this problem once before in a car but after it had a few thousand miles and had hit a curb. There was something I described as 'play' in the steering, which let the wheels move the slightest bit while the steering whas held solidly still. I wish I could remember what ended up being the issue, but I do remember that my 'rack-and-pinion' steering had to have some parts replaced, and maybe some tie rods. Maybe your service department could investigate from the lugs inward toward the steering column.
I sure hope you get this worked out, because I'm sure this is ruining an otherwise great enjoyment of a new car.
What happens is this-the brake band gets wet and then you put the parking brake on and it freezes the band to the drum. Know this cause a lady friend asked me to look at her accord - it won't go - a rear tire was frozen. If you have it in a garage, jack it up-back off the lug nuts and take off the wheel cover and the tire-then take a spot light or heat lamp, put it up close to the brake drum and leave it on for a couple of hours-check it cause it does get hot and this will thaw the frozen brake band.
NOW HEAR THIS_DO NOT USE PARKING BRAKES IN WINTER WEATHER. The garage will want to replace your brake shoes regardless and it will cost you probably $100 to get it fixed if they are not crooks. I never ever use my parking brake-no need with an auto tranny. Oh I do use it when jacking up the front end to change oil or rotate tires.
Good luck and hope others learn from your adventure.
My '04 Accord EX was fixed by the dealer last week....no more cracking or creaking noise!! Here's the short story... On day two of ownership I noticed the car had a loud rattling sound like the windshield wasn't sealed properly. I drove it for a few weeks and the sound only got worse. Had a Honda tech ride w/me to confirm the sound, he immediately said there was a problem. The windshield was removed and a new seal was put in and all the noise went away. I urge others with strange noises coming from the windshield/front door area to have their vehicles looked at...the Accord's a very nice vehicle that should NOT rattle or creak if set up properly.
I have been hearing a Squeal by the Front Passenger Side. When I first start the car, I don't hear it. When the car is warmed up, I do.
I only hear the noise when I am at a stop. Rev the engine, I can't here any more. Probably when I am driving, noise drowns it out. It seems to get worse when I turn the steering wheel when I am at a stop. Which makes me think it could do something with power steering.
I think it could be the belt, or the alternator. The noise seems to come from their.
I brought it in for service. Of course the squeal was barely hearable then, but it was still their. The guy told me its normal. I am skeptic of his answer.
My Question is if that noise is normal? Do you hear that noise, when your 4cyl is idle?
It will bring me to a piece of mind if I know other people hear it, and that its normal.
I know it's way too early, but I would check the tension of the steering belt. My 89 Accord the P/S belt was so loose. Every time I turned the steering wheel at stop, it made a squeaking noise and slipped some time. After I had the timing belt job (all belts & water pump replaced) done, the noise was gone & no more slipping.
Hi, would appreciate opinions on my dilemma. I have a 1987 Accord Lx-i hatchback that has been a great little car. It needs $400-$500 (US) in suspension work, which I don't have a problem with since it's been bouncing over potholes and whatever for 17 years ... BUT it is developing transmission problems also (it's automatic). The two mechanics I've taken it to recommend replacing rather than fixing the transmission.
The car has 120,000 miles on it and the mechanics say that the engine & body are in very good shape. It's had very few problems over the years; almost all the money I've put into it has been for consumables. The car is extremely reliable, and I would love to keep it, but don't know if it's worth it to put a couple thousand into the transmission.
personally, i'd get something newer-- something with airbags-- antilock brakes.... you never know when something happens where you would want a car with airbags or some other safety features not around in the 80s--
I like to keep good cars a long time too, but it time to let this one go. It's not the mileage, but the age that will nickel and dime you to death. For instance, your old a/c use R-12 which is very expensive to maintain and it will go soon, if it hasn't already. You will have to spend at least $2000 just to fix what you have broke now. If you get it fixed and someone hits and totals your car on the way out of the repair facility, you will not even get enough from your insurance company to cover what you just spent on the repair. You can buy a brand new 2003 civic, which by the way is roomer with a better ride than 87 Accords were for under $14,000 out the door. It's your money, but a better financial move would be to replace it if you can spare the money. You will end up with a much better, safer car under warranty that will take you another 15 years or so into the future. Good luck!
I concur. Your car has outlasted most of the vehicles on the road, but at 16 years it's time to retire it. I don't think you'll find many people recommending having a new transmission put in an '87. As mentioned above, the car's age means that you'll probably need to be fixing something constantly. Better to put the money into a new Honda with the great safety features of current cars--you and your passengers are worth it, right?
If you can fix the transmission for 300-500. I would do that for a while longer till you really want or need a new car.
$300 - $500 is about 1 or 2 months of a car payment. If you can get three months out of the fixed transmission you have come out ahead.
It sounds like the car is suiting your needs and if the safety issues and creature comnforts of a new car are not important to you, then keep it. But if the new transmission is going to cost $2000+ to replace then you are taking the risk that the car will last another 6 or 7 months without another major expense. On a 17 year old car that is too moch of a risk for me.
You got more out of that car than most consumers, count your blessings. On a 16 year old car your mechanics see a cash cow. Oh! I mean car, Sell it to the mechanics.
It's time to retire it. What if after you replace the tranny & the suspension, the engine goes dead? And someone already mentioned what if the car is total after you repair it. I know it's an extremely reliable car. I have an 89 LXi with 195k miles and it's still going. Own it since Dec 88. The engine is a bit tired. It probably needs a major tune up. Also start hearing a whislting sound from the engine comparment. Tranny problem? Just passed emission & saftety tests. Hopefully I can keep it going for another year. I don't mind to spend a couple hundred bucks and keep it going for several months. But for a couple thousands, it's time to retire it.
$2,000 for a new tranny? Would that even cover the labour cost? My brother had an '85 Prelude that needed tranny work. I can't remember how much they quoted him but I know he very quickly sold it to the Honda mechanic for next to nothing. The mechanic got a good deal 'cause he supplied the labour and he got parts at staff rates. But, hey, what can you do?!
I know you folks are right - I needed a nudge to do the smart thing. I'll miss my baby, though. And I appreciate the time you took to comment on my problem.
It's time to go shopping! My great experience with my old Accord puts the 2004 model at the top of my test-drive list.
Your A/C filters should have been changed twice already, so I can guarantee they are pretty much clogged right now. I did mine when my car was two years old with 24,000 miles and they were pretty dirty. You have to remove the glove box and the lower part of the passenger dash. There are many screws to remove and a bracket too, just to get those two filters. It took me over an hour and I'm a pretty good mechanic. If you are not at least a fair mechanic, then I recommend you pay to have it done. There is a chance you could set off the airbag, if you are not very careful or damage your dash in the process. Good luck.
Just disconnect your negative battery cable so you don't accidentally set off the air bag. BD21 is right about all the screws. When I got done with mine I had 2 left over.
I don't know if the 1998-2001 Accord is similar to the 2003, but it does not require removing the glove box in the 2003. Perhaps Honda got a lot of complaints if the earlier models did require significant disassembly.
With the 2003: 1. Open glove box 2. Disconnect damper on right side of glove box. 3. Push in on both sides of the back of the glove box to get past the catch point. The glove box will then pivot down. 4. Remove the air filter and replace.
I sympathize with you. Up here, old rusty Hondas can be bought for less than $100 [I have 1 in my driveway but its a 5 speed]. Have you checked local auto wreckers to see what a used tranny would cost? [just a guess-$200 for tranny & $300 to put it in?] Wrecking yards around here are almost giving away parts from these cars because there is no market for them any more. Many offer a 30 day guarantee. Your price for the suspension is bang on. My 86 has just over 157,000 miles on it & I've had it since brand new. It looks & runs almost like new. I'm pulling parts off the rusty one then junking it.
I posted a while back and got some great input, just looking for some suggestions again. After owning 2 tired GM products, the Honda has been a relative pleasure. Having said that, I have these issues with it:
1) Lately, whenever I engage the turn signals the Speedometer briefly drops to 0 and the Tach goes pretty crazy, bouncing up and down seemingly in time with the turn signal. 2) Only in cold weather really, the car does not register park on the dash (no lighted box around P) and the key will not come out, since I guess it still thinks I am in a running gear. Also, engaging reverse seems to take longer and I dont always get a lit box around that for quite some time. 3) When its really really cold out, there is a clunk from the passenger side front wheel. Frozen strut or something? It usually stops after the car has been going for a bit. 4) It runs 70mph at about 3000rpm. I dont think it used to run up the rpms that quickly. 5) Sometimes at idle (only after a cold start) the rpms fluctuate up and down since the idle speed kicks up and down. The fluctuation gets faster until ultimately it stops entirely when the engine is warm. Sounds like someone is revving it, but obviously no one is.
As a side note, I replaced the TCU with a salvage yard pull (from a yard I always have gone to), but that was back in late summer when I posted about the car not finding any gears beyond 2nd and flashing a sport-shift warning light. Problems 1 and 4 are new, the others i have had since before the TCU replacement. I listed them in decreasing order of importance.
It sounds like my 89 Accord. The car is old. 1. Haven't seen this yet. 2. Happened couple times last winter (under extremly cold weather). Start the car again, shift it out of Park, then shift back to Park. See if the Park light comes on. 3. Yes, on a few occasions under cold weather. 4. 70 mph at ~3k RPM. That's what my car has. 5. Saw it a couple times too.
That's why I want to have my (old) car warmed up a bit longer in the winter before driving it.
if you hear a whirr or a clunk in a late model Accord right when you first get started, it's either the fuel pump kicking on, or if you mean it does the clunk as you start moving, that would be the anti-lock brakes system testing itself. If your foot is lightly on the brake as you start moving, you'll feel a small pulsation at the same time you hear the clunk
problem 1 havent seen , but how is the battery/ charging system?
2..could be the TCU or more likely the gear position switch(some times called a shift inhibitor switch)located on the side of the shifter. Also could just be a cable adjustment.
3..is the noise while driving or shifting into gear? If while driving then suspect a bad strut or ball joint.
4..the rpm is close to what it should be. If you know it is higher then the trans may not be going into lockup. Hows the gas mileage been?
5..Sounds like a bad IAC(Idle Air Control valve) or a fast idle valve. There is a way to diag if you are familiar with the system..
1) The battery is only about a year old and the charging system had a look-over last summer, but perhaps it's time to have my mechanic check that out again. Recently, I was driving on the highway and both the tach and the speedometer just dropped to 0. A weird sight when doing 70. All other gauges, trip odo, odo, everything, seemed perfectly fine.
2)For chucko3, I've tried that. Sometimes is works sometimes it doesn't. Jiggling the shifter also sometimes pops the indicator on and then i can remove my key. Otherwise I leave it in for a while and eventually I am able to remove it. Sometimes it's a long while though. By reading some posts I saw that it might be a bad brake switch, a bad shift position switch or a bad TCU. I have a service manual and don't mind digging in. Definitely open to ideas.
3) Never while shifting, only when driving and only when I hit a bump on the passenger side in the front. A friend and I thought perhaps the strut, but we are not mechanics. Not even good shadetree ones.
4) Best gas mileage is 25mpg. Seems kinda sad, my 88 Regal got better and that car was a mess. (As for the tired GM products....they're cheap and I need the $ for college. My GMs werent half as tight as my Accord and handled like boats in comparison, but they took a beating and toted 6 people with ease. I'm not saying anything about the Accord, but I am no domestic hater.)
5) Thanks for all the help auburn, you are the alcan (bonneville boards) of the honda forums. I think was your advice to someone else about a similar problem, just kindly let me know if this is what to do. "It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. Valve will run about $210. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place."
with respect to your problem #3, RF clunk. Might I suggest a CV joint filled with water & frozen. I had a CV joint replaced a while ago & a lot of water came out when the mechanic cut open the boot. The boot looked OK. If you want to find out for sure, aim a small heater at the boot, turn heater on before going to bed to keep this boot warm all night. If no noise in the morning, maybe you've found your problem.
Comments
After waiting two hours for the tire change, etc., I walked back to find out what the hold up was and it was just completed - they apologized saying the mirror buffing and seat shim took longer. I admitted I was surprised - I was sure they were going to tell me I was crazy, that the seat was fine, and the response was, "Oh no, your seat was shifting! It doesn't now, and let us know immediately if it happens again." There was no added mileage on the car, so they figured it out without driving it (though pushing on the seat didn't move it.)
If this helps any: they used FP-number 81599-S84-999 Shim Set 90410 (I don't know if the part numbers are internal or Honda)
...and no, it's NOT possible that they did nothing, and simply placated me, because it really *doesn't* shift at all now.
If no clunk, then after you've waited about 20-30 seconds of being on, THEN start the car and note how long it takes before you hear the sound. Let us know if you feel the clunk as well, and if you feel it in the pedals or the wheel.
I turned on the ignition and the car started cranking. But, within a few tries (less than 10 cranks) the car fired up. I dont use the car on the highway and my commute is only 4miles. This is happening each time I cold start the car (after 10-12 hours).
This morning, I intentionally started out late at around 11am to see if the bright sun might help me a little. The car cranked for 5-6 times (generally it starts within 3). After 6 of such starts, the car came to life. The battery light is lit, dashboard shows no red lights. This seems to happen ONLY when its really cold, anythoughts.
I went through pages 204,205,206 starting from my post 4027. I confess that I dont understand many of the things spoken since I aint that technical. Since my warranty has expired, I cant take it to the dealer but will try a local mechanic.
crunchy sounds coming from the overhead visors area, door panels, and the window(passenger side) rattling. After the car has been in for repairs 4 or 5 times for the same problem, it has not been fixed yet. Will appreciate much if someone who experienced the same, can share.
Thanks.
As a result, the battery has weakened at a faster than usual rate. Low temperatures have an added weakening effect on the battery.
Just replace with a new battery, one with higher amperage (store will know this) for added cranking juice.
Thanks Angie
Anyway, I figured out a NEW WAY to test my car out. I figure, if I am on a straight road, I should be able to hold the steering wheel straight - or at least still - and stay in my lane. I CAN'T. I tried it out on the highway, on a long straight stretch. After varied amounts of time (seconds), the car will suddenly change lanes, and I am holding the steering wheel still. It goes to the left or the right. It actually moved like I had turned the wheel to change lanes twice before I ran out of straight highway. Honda can't tell me this is right, can they???
Any comments on the validity of my steering test would be appreciated. Sorry I rambled. Too tired to edit tonight.
I am trying to diagnose because the service manager told me he was going to realign the car a 5th time to fix the wavering back and forth. When I picked up the car after the fifth repair (fourth alignment)which included the subframe shift and an alignment, the service manager told me they corrected for road crown so if I drive in the left lane, the car may drift left - he also said the car was driving straight down the road. When I called him the next day to say it did different things on every highway, his response was - see, there is the problem, every road is different, you can't expect us to align a car to drive straight on every road. He then said if I brought it in, he would take out the road crown adjustment and that was about all he could do.
I had a car that drove straight on all these roads before. Oh what a feeling.
I will continue to test drive
Have fun guys!
I'm certainly no expert, but this doesn't sound like an alignment issue anymore. I had this problem once before in a car but after it had a few thousand miles and had hit a curb. There was something I described as 'play' in the steering, which let the wheels move the slightest bit while the steering whas held solidly still. I wish I could remember what ended up being the issue, but I do remember that my 'rack-and-pinion' steering had to have some parts replaced, and maybe some tie rods. Maybe your service department could investigate from the lugs inward toward the steering column.
I sure hope you get this worked out, because I'm sure this is ruining an otherwise great enjoyment of a new car.
Good luck.
NOW HEAR THIS_DO NOT USE PARKING BRAKES IN WINTER WEATHER. The garage will want to replace your brake shoes regardless and it will cost you probably $100 to get it fixed if they are not crooks. I never ever use my parking brake-no need with an auto tranny. Oh I do use it when jacking up the front end to change oil or rotate tires.
Good luck and hope others learn from your adventure.
I have been hearing a Squeal by the Front Passenger Side. When I first start the car, I don't hear it. When the car is warmed up, I do.
I only hear the noise when I am at a stop. Rev the engine, I can't here any more. Probably when I am driving, noise drowns it out. It seems to get worse when I turn the steering wheel when I am at a stop. Which makes me think it could do something with power steering.
I think it could be the belt, or the alternator. The noise seems to come from their.
I brought it in for service. Of course the squeal was barely hearable then, but it was still their. The guy told me its normal. I am skeptic of his answer.
My Question is if that noise is normal?
Do you hear that noise, when your 4cyl is idle?
It will bring me to a piece of mind if I know other people hear it, and that its normal.
I would check the tension of the steering belt.
My 89 Accord the P/S belt was so loose. Every time I turned the steering wheel at stop, it made a squeaking noise and slipped some time.
After I had the timing belt job (all belts & water pump replaced) done, the noise was gone & no more slipping.
The car has 120,000 miles on it and the mechanics say that the engine & body are in very good shape. It's had very few problems over the years; almost all the money I've put into it has been for consumables. The car is extremely reliable, and I would love to keep it, but don't know if it's worth it to put a couple thousand into the transmission.
Thanks for any input or suggestions.
personally, i'd get something newer-- something with airbags-- antilock brakes.... you never know when something happens where you would want a car with airbags or some other safety features not around in the 80s--
just my two cents...
Barry S.
$300 - $500 is about 1 or 2 months of a car payment. If you can get three months out of the fixed transmission you have come out ahead.
It sounds like the car is suiting your needs and if the safety issues and creature comnforts of a new car are not important to you, then keep it. But if the new transmission is going to cost $2000+ to replace then you are taking the risk that the car will last another 6 or 7 months without another major expense. On a 17 year old car that is too moch of a risk for me.
I agree with the others here, it's probably time to say good bye.
If you could somehow find a known good used transmission that could be an option.
What if after you replace the tranny & the suspension, the engine goes dead? And someone already mentioned what if the car is total after you repair it.
I know it's an extremely reliable car. I have an 89 LXi with 195k miles and it's still going. Own it since Dec 88. The engine is a bit tired. It probably needs a major tune up. Also start hearing a whislting sound from the engine comparment. Tranny problem? Just passed emission & saftety tests. Hopefully I can keep it going for another year.
I don't mind to spend a couple hundred bucks and keep it going for several months. But for a couple thousands, it's time to retire it.
It's time to go shopping! My great experience with my old Accord puts the 2004 model at the top of my test-drive list.
Should I be concerned about replacing this filter for the A/C? I hate paying for "them" to do it!
With the 2003:
1. Open glove box
2. Disconnect damper on right side of glove box.
3. Push in on both sides of the back of the glove box to get past the catch point. The glove box will then pivot down.
4. Remove the air filter and replace.
1) Lately, whenever I engage the turn signals the Speedometer briefly drops to 0 and the Tach goes pretty crazy, bouncing up and down seemingly in time with the turn signal.
2) Only in cold weather really, the car does not register park on the dash (no lighted box around P) and the key will not come out, since I guess it still thinks I am in a running gear. Also, engaging reverse seems to take longer and I dont always get a lit box around that for quite some time.
3) When its really really cold out, there is a clunk from the passenger side front wheel. Frozen strut or something? It usually stops after the car has been going for a bit.
4) It runs 70mph at about 3000rpm. I dont think it used to run up the rpms that quickly.
5) Sometimes at idle (only after a cold start) the rpms fluctuate up and down since the idle speed kicks up and down. The fluctuation gets faster until ultimately it stops entirely when the engine is warm. Sounds like someone is revving it, but obviously no one is.
As a side note, I replaced the TCU with a salvage yard pull (from a yard I always have gone to), but that was back in late summer when I posted about the car not finding any gears beyond 2nd and flashing a sport-shift warning light. Problems 1 and 4 are new, the others i have had since before the TCU replacement. I listed them in decreasing order of importance.
Thanks guys!
1. Haven't seen this yet.
2. Happened couple times last winter (under extremly cold weather). Start the car again, shift it out of Park, then shift back to Park. See if the Park light comes on.
3. Yes, on a few occasions under cold weather.
4. 70 mph at ~3k RPM. That's what my car has.
5. Saw it a couple times too.
That's why I want to have my (old) car warmed up a bit longer in the winter before driving it.
Sounds like your Honda is getting tired too!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2..could be the TCU or more likely the gear position switch(some times called a shift inhibitor switch)located on the side of the shifter. Also could just be a cable adjustment.
3..is the noise while driving or shifting into gear? If while driving then suspect a bad strut or ball joint.
4..the rpm is close to what it should be. If you know it is higher then the trans may not be going into lockup. Hows the gas mileage been?
5..Sounds like a bad IAC(Idle Air Control valve) or a fast idle valve. There is a way to diag if you are familiar with the system..
2)For chucko3, I've tried that. Sometimes is works sometimes it doesn't. Jiggling the shifter also sometimes pops the indicator on and then i can remove my key. Otherwise I leave it in for a while and eventually I am able to remove it. Sometimes it's a long while though. By reading some posts I saw that it might be a bad brake switch, a bad shift position switch or a bad TCU. I have a service manual and don't mind digging in. Definitely open to ideas.
3) Never while shifting, only when driving and only when I hit a bump on the passenger side in the front. A friend and I thought perhaps the strut, but we are not mechanics. Not even good shadetree ones.
4) Best gas mileage is 25mpg. Seems kinda sad, my 88 Regal got better and that car was a mess. (As for the tired GM products....they're cheap and I need the $ for college. My GMs werent half as tight as my Accord and handled like boats in comparison, but they took a beating and toted 6 people with ease. I'm not saying anything about the Accord, but I am no domestic hater.)
5) Thanks for all the help auburn, you are the alcan (bonneville boards) of the honda forums. I think was your advice to someone else about a similar problem, just kindly let me know if this is what to do. "It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. Valve will run about $210. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place."
Thanks everybody, happy motoring.