I'm not sure how many keys can actually be programmed with the 03 Accords, but new they come with 3 keys; 2 are the regular keys with the remote, and the third one is a gray valet key, which doesn't have the remote. I believe the DX model is the only model that comes with 3 non-remote keys.
Two weeks after delivery of my 2004 Accord, got a call from dealer saying that the redesigned '04 day/night mirror was in. Took car in for installation. One day after installation, I noticed that srs light was on. Back to dealer, only to discover that they had installed an'03 mirror instead of a redesigned '04. Service rep claims that there was a mix up by the person who called me who didn't know that the '03 mirror is incompatiable, although everyone else seems to know it. I wonder why the tech doing the install also did not seem to know about it? Back with stock mirror as I wait for the '04. "Only a couple of weeks" promises the service rep.
Just wanted to second the thought that you should ignore your gas mileage until you have around 3,000 miles or so. Even though the manual says your car is broken in after just 600 miles, most car people I've talked to say it takes a few thousand miles before your engine really gets broken in and starts to perform the way it was designed to.
Also keep in mind that the mileage for all cars goes down a bit in cold weather.
The weather has dipped to -10 Celius and I've noticed that the LCD display for my 2003 Accord EX-L's radio/climate control is slow. When you press the radio controls it takes a little longer for the display to change. Is this normal for LCD? I'm assuming that the crystals have frozen.
My 03 Accord 4dr V6 has a problem with the brakes. They grab when first step on the pedal (Worse the colder it is)The dealer has cut the front rotors and replaced the pads, but the problem has returned! Has anyone else experienced this?
The brakes on the 2003 Accords are grabby until you get used to them. I have driven a lot of rental/loaner cars over the last couple years, and each feels a little different. After driving a car with a softer brake pedal and returning to my '03 Accord, I tend to step on the brakes a little hard the first couple times until I remember they are a little touchy. I personally like brakes that engage toward the "top" of the pedal travel (rather than pushing halfway to the floor before starting to slowing down). Touchy brakes are normal for this model.
The only problem I have had with my brakes is the rotors warping way too soon. But Honda has apparently changed pad materials to correct this design defect.
Docsaccord1 - It was news to me that a bad battery could trigger the srs light, but the dealer said that a cell in the battery had gone bad. This resulted in a slight drop in voltage which triggered the srs light. A new battery was installed and the light reset and no problems since. I only mentioned this as it is easy to check the battery for problems prior to other testing for your problem. There are probably many potential problems that could cause the warning light to come on though. Good Luck.
use whatever the manual says-- i'm thinking 87 octane is fine... these yo-yos who use higher octane than what is prescribed are throwing money away-- am i nuts?
I have a 2003 Accord LX with power seats. Everytime I come to a stop the seat moves slightly in its track as if it's not firmly locked in place. The service rep told me "they all do that." I guess it's related to my size and weight, six feet and 200 lbs, because my wife who is small doesn't experience this. Has anybody else had the same problem? It isn't serious but it is annoying as hell. If they all do it then someone else my size should have experienced it. Any advice would be appreciated
I have a 2003 Accord Coupe. Recently had a Viper alarm installed. I now have a separate alarm controller. The LX key buttons no longer work, but the security chip does. I want to get a key made that has the security chip in it, but without the buttons. Sort of like the valet key, but with the ability to open all locks. I suggested the DX key, but the honda parts department is not sure if it would fit, or if it can be programmed to my ignition chip
I think you should be concerned if your new Accord does not get the highway mileage you would expect based on EPA estimate. Based on 13K miles with my 2003 Accord 2Dr LX-V6 the "break in" mileage improvement is not significant. If you drove your new Accord 4cyl at reasonable highway speeds under moderate conditions you should get near the EPA highway mileage rating. Mileage factors that are much more significant than engine break-in are: 1. Driving mix highway/city and length of trips. If you drove mostly highway miles but in short (<10 miles) trips with cold engine to start you can not expect the EPA highway estimate - all in one trip you should. With a previous vehicle the mileage went from 20 to 23 when my work location changed from 8 to 26 miles each way.
2. Weather and seasonal. In Seattle my Prelude mileage was 32 in late summer and dropped of to 28 by end of February year after year. My Accord is showing the same pattern since new in May. Varies by location and could be opposite in some places, such as Phoenix.
It was 10 deg F here this morning and I had the same experience. I'm pretty sure this is a normal thing for the cold. I have a couple of radios on my plane (each of which cost upwards of $100K!!) and they do the EXACT same thing until they warm up.
Oh, so as to not sound pretentious, I'm in the USAF and it's not specifically MY plane.
there are numerous posts here on the power driver's seat movement problem. I have the same problem and was told by the dealer there are several causes. In my case they had to order a complete new seat frame (still waiting). My problem was the seat slid back into position after a firm stop (didn't really sense the movement forward). I am 6" 225# and it shouldn't move. Your dealer is feeding you a line. contact the Honda Service Reps for Honda America if you get no response from the dealer.
Go back to that service puke and say "O.K. lets go drive a few new ones and see if "They All Do That".
Next he'll try to say "fine we'll do a one time good will exchange/fix" like they are doing you some kind of huge favor by fixing your broken, under warranty car.
GRRRR. that kind of junk makes me angry.
I suggest you try to find a different dealership to work with. It can make all the difference.
Does anyone have any success getting Honda to pay for fixing the clogged EGR valve beyond the 8/80000 extended warranty period? First, the local Honda dealer had to charge me $105 to investigate the check engine light on my 98 Accord EX V6. I already knew what they were going to tell me, since some mechanic had pulled the code for me the day before, for free. Then, to fix Code P0401, they had to charge me another $$210 to replace the EGR valve. Naturally, since this car has 88,000 mile on it, it would not be covered under the extended warranty. The fact that this is a known design flaw relates to emission doesn?t change a thing. The predicament for us owners is we can?t get Honda to fix it before the CEL light up. And when it does light up, it becomes our responsibility if it is outside the warranty period. Pretty slick. Exact reason of calling it an extended warranty and not a recall I guess. The dealer was sympathetic but won?t budge as far as cost. This car has all regular service done according to schedule at the same place. Very disappointed they can?t take care of their customers. The work is now done and the dealer suggested me to go to Honda directly for possible cost assistance. Has anyone done this before?
What was the breakdown between labor and parts in that $210 charge-not a lot to change out one of those valves-at least in my 97.
Also FYI-this maybe an old husbands tale but some have said topping off your fuel tank can cause big problems with your emissions system-Honda replaced a lot of my emissions system under extended warranty but now I do not top off my tank-used to fill it all way up for long trips-no more.
My local autozone store will read the cel free of charge. Take note however-their parts prices are sometimes higher than Honda dealer prices.
I recently purchased an '04 EX-V6. When I started the car the second day I had it, three warning lights (one for ABS, the other two for the TCS system) stayed lit in the instrument cluster for the entire 14 mile ride to work. I didn't do it on the way home. The problem didn't present itself again until a couple of days later. I dropped the car off at the dealer this morning to have the problem diagnosed, but they were unable to get an answer from Honda concerning what the problem was. I was told that this is a problem on only a handful of 2004 models and they don't have a proposed fix. As such, I'm to wait a couple of months until a "service bulletin" comes out that addresses my problem. Anybody else ever hear of this?? Thanks!
I took delivery on new 2004 Accord EX-V6 last month, and just returned from a 900 mile road trip. I also thought there was more wind noise about half way through the trip. It turns out all four windows were down a fraction of an inch (not noticeable visually) due to someone (probably my wife!) holding the remote door un-lock down a little too long.
Some scary stuff about it. Hope it is not too late to post my nightmare! After 5 visits to service and numerous phone calls Honda Canada finally came back and admitted that manufacturer missed to weld body (underneath the driver side???) properly. When I talked to TSB Canada-Defect Investigation department guy said that the part Honda Canada is claiming was missed actually was not design to be welded at all.Go figure! I see your posts date from March 2003. I bought my 2003 Accord L4 4 door manual on Oct 1,2003. Car was made in the US sometime in April 2003. I am curios what can be done about it if anything? I wonder what Jonesok1 managed to do with his car? Is it possible to return car? Are there any safety concerns about it or not? Someone said that it can be fixed by welding some kind of bar(s) underneath the car???? How accessible part they are intending to weld actually is? I requested to be present in the service where they gonna do it! Honda Canada said it is up to the service to decide due to safety concerns? Yeh right! Any suggestion would appreciated I am willing to go public, big time coz it pisses me off when big corporations treat people like crash dummies. Anyone wants to join
hi guys i purchased 04 accord coupe recently and was offered by the dealer to install an alarm for $500 dollars. did i over pay? also after the installation i started hearing very faint and high pitch humming noise. the noise becomes more audible as the engine rev goes up. does this have anything to do with wiring mistake during the installation of the alarm?
My 03 EX Accord has an alarm built in. I don't know what model you got but if it has a built in alarm, you overpaid! However, the built in alarm only sounds the horn and I don't think it has a motion detector. If you want a siren and motion detector and that is what you got, don't worry about over paying.
The "popping" sound has affected several cars whose owners have posted here. The fix that was proposed by Honda appears to have solved the problem. What you can do is simply to have Honda perform the work to fix the problem. I have no idea whether there is a potential safety issue with the popping problem, but I would suspect not.
It may have been incorrect for the service people to term the problem as a missing part or missing weld, but it sounds like you should let them do the work to fix your car and move on.
And I think it is entirely reasonable for the dealer not to let you onto the floor when the work is being done. To do so would be begging for a liability issue and probably insurance problems - I'm sure their policy does not allow them to have customers on the floor.
Isaac: They wired something wrong. IF they used wires from/around the stereo this could be causing an alternator whine/feedback loop through the stereo. Make them disconnect the power from the alarm to see if the whine goes away.
My 03 EX V6 was made in Feb. 03. I bought the car in Mar. 03. Redondo Red, beautiful looking auto. Troubles from day one. Mostly trim--loose left roof gutter moulding, three trips to dealer to repair correctly. Then right roof moulding.
We never took the car through an automatic car wash. Just poor workmanship by Honda. Then the right door trim around the front window started to bubble. Dealer attempted to fix. Worse than before. Had to reorder part. The third time they broke the inside door release cable while taking the trim off. End result five trips to the dealer for what should have been minor repairs.
Then the straw that broke the camel's back. The infamous Popping Noise appeared after about three months of ownership. The technician actually heard it. This was a surprise to us.
The fix---they got up between the floorpan and the firewall and bent sheetmetal away from some of the welds that were causing the noise. I said this was not the proper way to fix the problem. They insisted that they had some previous year Civics with the same problem and this was the cure.
Well it did work for about two months. Then as I suspected the Popping Noise reappeared--louder than ever--Car went back to dealer. I informed them that I was well aware of how it should be fixed. Flat weld the two parts together. Guess what. This time they couldn't hear the loud noise. They added some foam insulation in the A pillar.
Continued to drive the car for awhile, then numerous other rattles started. I liked the power, the automatic and the features, but the rattles and Popping sound was just too much. Yes I know I could have fought longer. This dealer has received Honda of Canada's top service award for five straight years. How they achieved this is beyond me. We had the car for seven months and was in their shop seventeen times.
There is certainly a lot of truth in the saying "Do not buy a first year car." Even a Honda. Too many teething problems.
I wish you the best of luck in having the Popping Noise fixed correctly.
Thanks for quick reply. I am still waiting that guy from Defect Investigation Department of Transport Canada to call. That and few more things will determine what action to take in the future. My expectations are pretty much levelled. I have no choice but to go public on this. I have feeling that Honda Canada or dealer are not going to stand up for their customer other then temporarily fix the problem. Apparently they can not even fix that problem in the service. If they can't fix it how they will bring the car to the manufacturers specs (Honda Rep said they gonna fix so it will be better then new?) Keep feeling me in on this issue, I need as many information as possible. I wonder how much is for Honda to have someone 17 times in the service.
For what it's worth, there is a huge difference between dealer incompetence and poor machinery. There seems to be a lot of dealer incompetence described in the recent posts above, coupled with a reluctance to escalate matters to a higher level.
bojo, maybe you need to talk to a different dealer, since there is a permanent fix for the problem.
my 03EXV6 Sedan. They ran me around a few times,they tried what bdyment said, they fooled around with the suspension and such. Finally, they said it needed to be welded. My car was made 11/02. Sent to their bodyshop for 2 days, came back with No noise at all. I see you said you have the I4 Sedan. I thought this was only a problem with the V6 models? Anyway, be persistent, or try another dealership, and my important, stay rational.
As far as I understand there are two possible causes of that popping sound. That is my dilemma now. One that I believe you are talking about there is a permanent fix. That one is described in TSB 03-58 dated September 23,2003 by American Honda. However, jonesok1 mentioned the other one that is located in the area that is just below the windshield, in an area that cannot be accessed because it is enclosed by welds, below the windshield and in front of the door. The A frame pillar descends into the lower front fender area. You need to strip the car to the chassis to get there. How they gonna fix it by taking car to a body shop and weld steel bar(s) under the driver side floorboard to keep the body from flexing??? I have to figure that out first. Maybe the cheapest way to fix the problem is to trade it in for Toyota or something before they screw things up so badly that cannot be fixed any more. Very unfortunate I like the new engine for now. Thanks for your reply pj23.
honda problems.. i have a long list..warning lights that seem to come on randomly.. wind noise is awful.. it burns oil at 23,ooo miles.. the right hand outside mirror fell off when i hit a small chuck hole.. the power windows work only when they get the notion.. which isnt that often...the driver seat runs back and forth when i apply the brakes and accelerate..the dealer told me that they all did that..hmmm... they are really cheaply built cars.. plastic radiator it looks to me like.. the under carriage is very slightly built.. since ive owned this car ive taken notice that i see an awful lot of honda's crippled on the road side.. i wish i had been more observant earlier.. i take really good care of my honda.. oil changes etc.. if i can keep it running til i get it paid for i wont make the mistake of buying another honda.. yours truly jjaxon
My work involves with LCD display. Most LCDs have an operating temperature between 0 and 50 degrees Celsius. There are a few which can go to -10. So if the temperature falls below 32F, you will experience a slow response.
I have a 1993 Accord with 119k. When it gets really cold like around 30 or below, it doesn't start up the first couple of cranks. During these first couple of cranks, the engine check light comes on and the D4 light on the gauge flashes. After it turns over and I keep the engine revs up and turn the car off and on again, both lights dissappear and it runs normally. Although, one time I was driving after I had done this "warming up" process and it started to shudder a little and the engine check light and D4 light came on again.
Any ideas on what this could be? Just too damn cold? I've checked the battery and its fine, the car is garaged and I'm thinking it might be the fuel filter or something, don't think i've changed that ever. Also, does anyone know what the flashing D4 means? Rather curious.
No sweat pj23. BTW I just installed leather seats in my car. Looks great. I told you guys I want to like this car. I noticed that metal panel inside the back seat (back rest) was totally rusty. Amazing but true! Guy that was doing that for me said that all Japanese and US made cars are like mine. European cars are different. Check on yours it is easy, there is a velcro on the back rest on the trunk side of the seat.
I just had my 2003 Accord LX (4 Cyl Auto) in for its 10,000 mile checkup. The service dept recommended cleaning out brake dust for an additional $30.
I declined, having observed no problems from brake dust, and also suspecting them of accelerating the maintenance schedule to enhance their own revenues (for example they recommend an oil change every 3,000 miles when Honda says 5,000.)
Do other readers recommend preventive maintenance for brake dust? How often? Is there a disadvantage in waiting until I hear a squeaking noise when braking? $30 isn't much, it's more the principle of letting people tack on unnecessary work every time I go in. Thank you.
I have a really hard time believing all this. Not that I don't believe you but I have never heard anything like it, and I don't think that anybody else has ever had all these same problems. Or had them all in the same vehicle.
I just purchased an '04 Accord EX on Christmas Eve. This my First Honda and the experience is looking really bad at 500 miles. First, my ABS Break Light Came on and stayed (on and off over three days) on until I got it to a Honda Dealership (not the one I purchased it from, but near my office) and of course it would not come on. The dealer says the Computer could not get a reading of any problems nor that the light has even come on. At one point, grinding was felt in the breaks while backing up from a driveway before the light came back on. Well of course I picked the car up, yesterday evening and the light was night on, murphy's law right?! Well tonight the light comes on after work and stays on until I get home and turned the car off. But, while driving home, the theromostat begins to rise and rise and rise, until it stayed at a completly north and south not moving or lowering to a more comfortable setting, which should be more West, Northwest Angle. (Now I will have to drive my 10yr old Mazda, until this is fixed).
I will take any advice I can get at this time because my next step is the Corporation if I continue to have these completly unnecessary problems.
Have you checked for any loose connection at the spark plug wires? One time the CEL on my 89 Accord came on while I was driving. Stopped the car and found one loose wire at one spark plug. Pushed it back in and started the car again. The CEL went away.
I'm glad that your ownership experience has been so pleasant, but why post about it in the "Problems & Solutions" message board? I can't see that it offers any practical value to the people who are having problems.
Actually not yet, I did replace the spark plugs awhile ago because they were so worn out after an extended amount of use. Thanks for the tip though, I'll be sure to check the wires and if not I'll be back
Comments
Also keep in mind that the mileage for all cars goes down a bit in cold weather.
I'm assuming that the crystals have frozen.
The only problem I have had with my brakes is the rotors warping way too soon. But Honda has apparently changed pad materials to correct this design defect.
My 03 accord LX v6 now becomes more and more noisy. At 70 miles, the wind noise is loud as if the windows were not there.
In the early days, the noise is not this bad.
I can hear the noise is from around the pillar. My wife in the backseat complains too.
However, this is your car and your money so you can use diesel if you want. You may not get far but you get the picture....
1. Driving mix highway/city and length of trips.
If you drove mostly highway miles but in short (<10 miles) trips with cold engine to start you can not expect the EPA highway estimate - all in one trip you should. With a previous vehicle the mileage went from 20 to 23 when my work location changed from 8 to 26 miles each way.
2. Weather and seasonal. In Seattle my Prelude mileage was 32 in late summer and dropped of to 28 by end of February year after year. My Accord is showing the same pattern since new in May. Varies by location and could be opposite in some places, such as Phoenix.
3. Vehicle condition- engine tuning, tire inflation, gross weight, etc
4. Driving style: lead foot and 75+ on highway vs. eggshell starts and staying within 10mph of speed limit.
If poor mileage can not be accounted for by the four reasons above, the car should have a checkup. Do not wait for a "break in" miracle.
Oh, so as to not sound pretentious, I'm in the USAF and it's not specifically MY plane.
berbel
Next he'll try to say "fine we'll do a one time good will exchange/fix" like they are doing you some kind of huge favor by fixing your broken, under warranty car.
GRRRR. that kind of junk makes me angry.
I suggest you try to find a different dealership to work with. It can make all the difference.
Also FYI-this maybe an old husbands tale but some have said topping off your fuel tank can cause big problems with your emissions system-Honda replaced a lot of my emissions system under extended warranty but now I do not top off my tank-used to fill it all way up for long trips-no more.
My local autozone store will read the cel free of charge. Take note however-their parts prices are sometimes higher than Honda dealer prices.
No problems since.
I see your posts date from March 2003. I bought my 2003 Accord L4 4 door manual on Oct 1,2003. Car was made in the US sometime in April 2003.
I am curios what can be done about it if anything? I wonder what Jonesok1 managed to do with his car? Is it possible to return car? Are there any safety concerns about it or not? Someone said that it can be fixed by welding some kind of bar(s) underneath the car???? How accessible part they are intending to weld actually is? I requested to be present in the service where they gonna do it! Honda Canada said it is up to the service to decide due to safety concerns? Yeh right!
Any suggestion would appreciated
I am willing to go public, big time coz it pisses me off when big corporations treat people like crash dummies. Anyone wants to join
i purchased 04 accord coupe recently and was offered by the dealer to install an alarm for
$500 dollars. did i over pay?
also after the installation i started hearing very faint and high pitch humming noise. the noise becomes more audible as the engine rev goes up. does this have anything to do with wiring mistake during the installation of the alarm?
It may have been incorrect for the service people to term the problem as a missing part or missing weld, but it sounds like you should let them do the work to fix your car and move on.
And I think it is entirely reasonable for the dealer not to let you onto the floor when the work is being done. To do so would be begging for a liability issue and probably insurance problems - I'm sure their policy does not allow them to have customers on the floor.
We never took the car through an automatic car wash. Just poor workmanship by Honda. Then the right door trim around the front window started to bubble. Dealer attempted to fix. Worse than before. Had to reorder part. The third time they broke the inside door release cable while taking the trim off. End result five trips to the dealer for what should have been minor repairs.
Then the straw that broke the camel's back. The infamous Popping Noise appeared after about three months of ownership. The technician actually heard it. This was a surprise to us.
The fix---they got up between the floorpan and the firewall and bent sheetmetal away from some of the welds that were causing the noise. I said this was not the proper way to fix the problem. They insisted that they had some previous year Civics with the same problem and this was the cure.
Well it did work for about two months. Then as I suspected the Popping Noise reappeared--louder than ever--Car went back to dealer. I informed them that I was well aware of how it should be fixed. Flat weld the two parts together. Guess what. This time they couldn't hear the loud noise. They added some foam insulation in the A pillar.
Continued to drive the car for awhile, then numerous other rattles started. I liked the power, the automatic and the features, but the rattles and Popping sound was just too much. Yes I know I could have fought longer. This dealer has received Honda of Canada's top service award for five straight years. How they achieved this is beyond me. We had the car for seven months and was in their shop seventeen times.
There is certainly a lot of truth in the saying "Do not buy a first year car." Even a Honda. Too many teething problems.
I wish you the best of luck in having the Popping Noise fixed correctly.
Now a Toyota owner.
Keep feeling me in on this issue, I need as many information as possible.
I wonder how much is for Honda to have someone 17 times in the service.
bojo, maybe you need to talk to a different dealer, since there is a permanent fix for the problem.
I see you said you have the I4 Sedan. I thought this was only a problem with the V6 models?
Anyway, be persistent, or try another dealership, and my important, stay rational.
One that I believe you are talking about there is a permanent fix. That one is described in TSB 03-58 dated September 23,2003 by American Honda. However, jonesok1 mentioned the other one that is located in the area that is just below the windshield, in an area that cannot be accessed because it is enclosed by welds, below the windshield and in front of the door. The A frame pillar descends into the lower front fender area. You need to strip the car to the chassis to get there.
How they gonna fix it by taking car to a body shop and weld steel bar(s) under the driver side floorboard to keep the body from flexing???
I have to figure that out first.
Maybe the cheapest way to fix the problem is to trade it in for Toyota or something before they screw things up so badly that cannot be fixed any more.
Very unfortunate I like the new engine for now.
Thanks for your reply pj23.
Anyway, good luck to you.
Most LCDs have an operating temperature between 0
and 50 degrees Celsius. There are a few which can go to -10.
So if the temperature falls below 32F, you will experience a slow response.
Any ideas on what this could be? Just too damn cold? I've checked the battery and its fine, the car is garaged and I'm thinking it might be the fuel filter or something, don't think i've changed that ever. Also, does anyone know what the flashing D4 means? Rather curious.
BTW I just installed leather seats in my car. Looks great. I told you guys I want to like this car. I noticed that metal panel inside the back seat (back rest) was totally rusty. Amazing but true! Guy that was doing that for me said that all Japanese and US made cars are like mine. European cars are different. Check on yours it is easy, there is a velcro on the back rest on the trunk side of the seat.
I declined, having observed no problems from brake dust, and also suspecting them of accelerating the maintenance schedule to enhance their own revenues (for example they recommend an oil change every 3,000 miles when Honda says 5,000.)
Do other readers recommend preventive maintenance for brake dust? How often? Is there a disadvantage in waiting until I hear a squeaking noise when braking? $30 isn't much, it's more the principle of letting people tack on unnecessary work every time I go in. Thank you.
I will take any advice I can get at this time because my next step is the Corporation if I continue to have these completly unnecessary problems.
One time the CEL on my 89 Accord came on while I was driving. Stopped the car and found one loose wire at one spark plug. Pushed it back in and started the car again. The CEL went away.