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Comments
I got to these mileage levels fairly quickly, so I suspect that as others reach the 100K mark more failures will occur. And I doubt most would be as maintenance concious as I was with this tranny.
Just a heads-up to other 6th gen users to have the carrier bearings checked even before any noticable symptoms appear, especially if you're approaching the 100K mark. Like I said earlier, the last replacement before this occurred was at 101K and no symtoms (leaks or tranny shift problems or MIL codes) were evident, but I'll bet if I had jacked up the front and shaken the shafts, they would have had quite a bit of play.
I do most of my maintenance on ramps, but in order to check the play in the half-shafts, both wheels must be off the ground (jackstands). Or better yet, bring it to a shop to have checked.
Like I said I'm disapointed by this failure at this mileage based upon my frequency of maintenance, but I'm delighted that Honda also agrees that their product should not fail this soon. BTW, both Cottman and Honda have seen this type of failure already with earlier 6th Gens in my area.
The reman units supposedly have the harder carrier bearings. We'll see, because I still intend to bring this vehicle to 300K. I may add a tranny cooler though and I'll probably stick with the ATF-Z1.
Idling engine is fighting the load of the power steering pump and a/c compressor in that situation. Dealer tried to fix with no success. Normal for Accords, not for the 2.2L/4-cyl Toyota Solara I previously owned.
We bought our LX Coupe in Feb of 2003, had the front pads replaced (at dealer cost thankfully) in April 2003 due to squeeling. Now at our last maintanence they advised us that our front pads were essentially at 0% while the back ones were still @ 95%. They were so low that they needed to repair the rotors as well, and all at our cost. The dealer finally admitted that the pads were sub-par but advised that this was just the way it was for our car! Of course they tried to say that it was due to aggressive driving on a lot of steep hills (I live in Vancouver, Canada)
The brake pads weren't even what I was most concerned with until this point as the engine vibration was my foremost concern. Honda has yet to admit the vibration even exists.
Has anyone had any luck with Honda US or Honda Canada on this issue? I'm in the process of drafting letters to our dealer and Honda Canada but am expecting it's going to be a fight.
Which dealership did you buy your car at in Vancouver?
I assume you already know that but when you deal with Honda Canada be aware that they do not sell cars! They are selling it to various dealerships, therefore they will do everything to return your concerns to authorized services or dealerships. Smart combination so that you cant get them.! They will fix the problem eventually as long as it is covered by warranty. The fact that after they have fixed it you may not get the same product you bought or hoped for is different story.
Good luck and keep us informed.
P.S. Do you work at YVR by chance?
here's a site that also might help
http://www.countrybynet.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Board/vehic- les/Number/2710/page/6/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1
The rear of my car (2004 Accord EX) is swaying on the freeway. Although I'm not sure if it is due to a particular stretch of road, I was wondering if you had that experience at higher speeds (70 mph or so).
Jeremy
Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions of what the problem might be?
Thanks.
I had been planning on keeping this car long-term, but if it doesn't get any better I don't see that happening anymore. The dealer basically told me that the pads will continue to wear out at an accelerated rate (because, apparently, the Accord is a heavy car!?! - I guess they gave us the brakes designed for an Echo or something), but Honda keeps making slight adjustments to them, so each time they should last a little longer!! They also told me that on the previous Accord and all prior models to that, the pads lasted until around 60,000 kms.
My question: Is the tank not full when the pump clicks off, OR, is there still 4 gallons of gas left when the fuel light comes on?
I don't want to run out of gas trying to find out my answer. (Although I'm thinking about 1 time trying a full 1 gallon plastic tank in the trunk when I get to E.)
We ran our 04 V6 until the gauge needle was on top of the red mark on the "E" side. Most car manufactures do this typr of calibration. When I filled up the pump said I put in almost 15 gals. into the tank, which meant that we had approx. 2 gals. remaining in the tank. This is more a safety than anything else. My dad wintnessed this same experience with his CRV and we noted it also on our RX300. Your gauage is not defective, it is working correctly.
On my 4 cyl Accord I regulary drive 360 miles on a tank before filling up. That is only about 12 gallons so i have about 5 gallons remaining even though my light is on.
The furthest I've gone on a tank is 450 miles. I have to admit I was a little nervous and was searching for the nearest gas station. Even then I only filled up 14.5 gallons.
My Question: Has anyone had the misfortune of going through this? How likely is it that my dealer will stand behind me? Anyone know a good lemon law lawyer in PA to work with? Thanks in advance!
At this stage, I'm skeptical that they'll be able to fix it the third time around. If they couldn't locate any problem the first two times its been in, the chances are about nill that they'll find anything now.
Hope this helps a little - sorry to hear about your issues, and hopefully its something simple they just haven't figured out yet.
Getting Some Lemon-Aid From Your Lemon Maker
-Jim
I'll just assume that I have 4 gallons of gas left when the E goes on and let it run down another gallon or so. At least until I get nervous enough and have to fill up.
I searched on "windows and locks" and it popped right up.
If yes, check if it is set to OFF.
Guess it is a yuppy thing. But way back when I bought my first car-the first thing you did when buying a new car with cloth seats was to buy seat covers-cloth did not last at all-now the stuff is really something. Oh well different strokes for different folks-am certain people will continue to pay extra for leather till the cows come home. wierd.
didn't stick to clothes and didn't ball up, etc., etc. The leather
is cold in Ohio winter and hot in summer. But car wasn't available
any other way. I would have happily had a quality cloth substitued
at an equal price just to have cloth...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
still confused about the cold in the winter, hot in the summer issue. if i touch the OUTSIDE of my car in the winter, it will most likely be cold. in the summer, i am willing to bet it would be hot, or at least warm. how the heck do leather seats get a bad rap for being cold in the winter and hot in the summer? i must be missing a point that someone made a post awhile back...
i love my leather and heated Honda seats.
When you sit on 125 degree leather in summer, especially in shorts, it feels hotter on your skin and the hot sensation lasts longer because it its higher specific heat than cloth has.
To take this to an extreme, if you put your tongue on a cold, 15 degree faucet outdoors in winter, the high specific heat of the metal freezes the liquid on your tongue and you're stuck; if you put your tongue on a piece of plastic at 15 degrees, your tongue will not be frozen to it. Vice-versa for HOT.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
As for the seat heaters - this is my first car with them, and especially with this sub-zero winter, I wouldn't give them up for anything!!
have chosen leather either. Now that I've got the heated seats I LOVE them. I'm impressed at feeling that heat through the leather and the clothes I have on. It allows me to drive in comfort until the car heats up. I think the quality of leather in the Accord is really good too. Friends more familiar with leather seats compliment mine after sitting in the car.
Grand High Poobah
The Fraternal Order of Procrastinators