My wife drives a 2000 EX V6 and noticed in the last week that it too has some white smoke coming out of the exhaust for a minute or so after the engine was turned off. Another person parking behind her noticed the smell and the smoke as well. I don't have an answer but am interested to see if anyone does. I also recently posted a comment about the smell of gas while driving. It only happens once every week or two and only last for a minute - like it vents off gas fumes for some reason. I have asked several mechanics and have not got an answer. Most will look at it if it gets worse and does it more often.???
took my car in yesterday for 7500 mile service and brake issues.
they resurfaced the rotors again, all seems perfect again. the said the new pads were wearing perfectly (they should after only 2500 miles since they were replaced).
anyway, the rep at the dealer, and Honda CO, called me to say that as a "goodwill gesture" they would resurface the rotors. i said okay, but reminded them that this isn't a "goodwill" anything. they took offense because i said that no car should have warped or heat scored rotors so soon. i proceeded to tell them that at this rate, there will be many more goodwill gestures on their part, until my car doesn't require them anymore.
it kills me that they say, because i drive in stop and go traffic, that it is understandable that my rotors would be warped so soon! i have lived in the same place for years (DC area), and yes, traffic is AWFUL, but none of my other cars had the problem. why oh why does Honda let stupid people work for them?? don't they know that their employees are saying, in public, that their rotors are designed NOT to work in stop and go traffic?
I have a 2004 Accord coupe. I noticed the front brakes shudder at exit ramp speeds and that there were grooves on the front rotors @ less than 2000 miles. I took it in and they resurfaced the rotors, and said this is the first time they had a 2004 in for this problem.
I told them that turning down the rotors is not the real fix, and they told me that is the first step in their repair....just keep watch on it. They did say that the 2004 were supposed to have different pads than the 2003.
95% of my grand total of aprox 2000 miles were highway miles. It appears that they still have not come up with a fix to this issue.
...it's pretty clear that they knew there were widespread problems with the originals. I don't know why some dealers/Honda Co. reps pretend otherwise.
One Honda Co. person I spoke with a while back (when my brakes first went bad) said that the company was aware of the brake pad problems and was developing a fix. The next person I spoke with (when the problem recurred) said that the issue was mine alone.
Honda can't seem to get its story straight.
The company did agree to replace my rotors and pads gratis, however, so I have to give Honda props for that.
I have a 02 Accord V6 and at times I would hear a constant clicking sound coming for transmission area... When the engine warms up it goes away.. Anyone has a similiar problem?
Your dealer sounds just like the folks I deal with at a fairly new dealership in Germantown, MD. Tell me it isn't so. .When I took my less than 2000 mile '03 in with cupped front tires from it being so out of alignment, they acted like I should thank them for not charging me for the realignment altho I had complained of poor steering from the gitgo. Warned me the next alingment would be on me and they were doing this one out of the goodness of their hearts.
there is a valve on the right front of the intake, honda says it controls the idle during warm up and the plastic nut inside comes loose and causes that problem. it fixed mine. the valve has 2 small cooling lines attached..
i backed my car and it hit ice. incidently it scratched the rear bumper on left side and it broke. anyone knows how much it would cost to fix it? i am not gonna fix it soon because there is no visible harm, but i want to estimate the cost..
I need some serious help figuring what is wrong with my car. I love my car, but hate driving it now. I cannot keep it going in a straight line at high speeds. I have to constantly adjust the steering wheel. It is very annoying and exhausting. Sometimes, the wheel feels like it is 'disconnected' or floating, like there are blank spots in the steering. Someone says it might be a bad rack. I have around 130 K miles on it now. The steering used to be nice and tight. It has been doing this ever since the last servicing. Any advice would be appreciated as I am very frustrated.
I hate to hear that people are still having brake troubles.
My 2003 Accord had problems by the 3000 mark, with pronounced shudder. I had serivice then, but Honda didn't have the new brake pads available yet. After another 3000 miles, I went back in for the same work.
The service department then knew of the new pads and replaced them and the rotors. After driving 10,000 miles on the new brakes they are like NIGHT AND DAY! The braking is more linear, easier to modulate, and they are silent and show absolutely no sign of rotor problems.
I don't think anybody here could give you an idea of how much it would cost to fix your car even if you did post pictures. Take half a day off from work and stop at the Honda dealer and a couple of reputable body shops. You should then have all you need to decide how much it will cost and when it can be done.
Porknbeans
Grand High Poobah The Fraternal Order of Procrastinators
Since 1997 we have purchased and / or leased five new Honda Vehicles. If I was having trouble with an alignment on my current vehicles, and my dealer told me that my next alignment would be on me, (in terms of cost), I would tell them that my next vehicle would NOT be a Honda from their dealership. Remember, you can purchase a vehicle of your choice from any dealer. Find a Honda dealer that has a "loaner car program" and purchase your next Honda from that dealer. My dealer has a "car club". ($15.00 per year / per vehicle). (It is also a "social club" where people get together for trips and social activities). When you need service, you can reserve a "loaner vehicle" from the fleet. Sometimes, when they are busy, there is a two week waiting list. ----Greg
Get it to a good alignment shop fast-ask around find out who is good and not crooks. Something could be loose or worn in the steering system. Doubt if it is the rack but if something is about to come apart-find out before it happens. Could be worn/bad tie rods.
Wow..day and night from the dealer here. Got a good deal and friendly care during the sale. The service dept. is one of those that takes at least one visit to verify a problem, another to look at it and order the part, and a third to fix (if you are lucky). Treat everyone like they are idiots (I'm late 50's and driving since 15) and insist Honda does not allow loaners. I do not have routine service done there, but at a local shop I trust. Have only had warranty work done by dealer and am thinking of establishing relationship with another dealer in area if I can get good recommendations. Count yourself lucky on your situation.
I have a 92 EX coupe with 108,000 original miles. I am having a problem with hesitation under acceleration at @ 3200 rpm... not just a little hesitation, almost to the point of stalling. And only while driving, not while revving in neutral. I've replaced the plugs, cap & rotor and still have this problem. I'm thinking maybe coil? or maybe a problem with the PGMFI? Anyone ever have the same problem and what did you do to correct it? Thanks for any help!
this winter has been pretty harsh in NY with temperatures consistently and vastly below freezing(it's gotten to the single digits a couple of times) and I've noticed that it's becoming harder to start my 01 Accord. It would crank longer before the engine starts. Sometimes I would even have to try twice (rarely) it wasn't this difficult last winter, so I'm wondering if anyone think this could be a problem with the car.
Our dealer is Mahwah Honda, in Mahwah N.J. This is an "Outstanding dealer"! They have a good selection of new vehicles right on the dealership property. When we purchase a new vehicle, we walk the rows of new vehicles, and when we see one that we like, our salesman gets the keys and we test drive it on the roads of Mahwah. Since 1997 we have purchased or leased the follwing vehicles: 1997 Honda Accord, 2000 Honda Accord, 2000 Honda Civic, 2003 Honda Accord and a 2004 Honda Civic.---- (We presently have the 2003 Accord & the 2004 Civic, both excellent vehicles).--- The service department is excellent, and the quality of the Honda Vehicles is outstanding. We have all our service work performed by the dealer. The entire operation is customer oriented, and we as customers, show our appreciation when we present our vehicles for service, and during the "Holiday Season". I have been driving since I was 17, (and I am now 61), and I have purchased many new and used vehicles from dealers. During that time I have experienced both good and bad dealer service from different manufacturers. Mahwah Honda is one of the best dealers. We would highly recommend them. Their customer base is from both New Jersey and New York State, since they are right on the border of N.Y. and N.J.. The service department is always very busy, but very efficient. In order to be fair with the service personal, we always try to make a service appointment in advance if at all possible. In an emergency, they will always try to accomodate the customer if at all possible. No one is perfect, but Mahwah Honda goes out of their way to make it happen for the customer. Their sales staff is very professional and it is a "low pressure operation"! If you purchase a NEW vehicle from them, you can join the Mahwah Honda Auto Club. Part of the "Auto Club" is the "loaner car program". Other benefits include discounts on parts, (on club meeting days), and service specials. There are also "social activities" for club members. The club meets once a month on the second Saturday of the month. Mahwah Honda is a good place to purchase and service your Honda vehicle! ----Just my opinion. ----Greg
Choosing a dealer for service can be tough. They compete like other businesses though. That's why some offer loaners. Honda Inc. has nothing to do with that. I got a loaner from a dealer paid for by Honda once for 6 weeks because my '98 needed a part that was being redesigned and was not in stock. Luckily the dealer also had car rental on the premises and was able to supply the "loaner" and charge to Honda. It still took a week after bringing the car in for Honda to admit that the part was unavailable.
Your car may have a dirty fuel injector or clogged fuel filter. Like yours my 89 Accord had trouble going beyond 3K RPM (70 mph) and seemed to stall there. I had been using cheap gas until I noticed this hesitation. After using 3 bottles of Chevron fuel injector cleaner (one with every other tank full), the hesitation went away and no problem running 85 mph now. I wanted to replace the fuel filter which has about 130K miles on it. It looks like I can wait until this summer. It costs 10 bucks for a box of 4 bottles at Costco. Don't forget to check the air filter too.
You might also want to take a very close look at the fuel pump (they do still have fuel pumps, don't they?). A tiny and almost unnoticeable leak in the seal can result in the sort of intermittent stalling you describe.
sherglo: Have you tried adjusting the lumbar support. I haven't used it so I might be wrong but isn't there a manual lumbar adjustment on the right side of the driver's upper seat?
hi everyone - when you all get a chance - please read this. i am STILL cleaning off trace amounts of new car factory covering goo, and last night i found another faint line of it. was cleaning it, and the actual body panel made some noise when i pressed on it. here is the exact location, as best as i can describe it:
left front fender, right below the hood, so still very much on top of the wheel well (as you know, our hoods are thin, and fenders thick). about halfway up from headlights, just below the hood, where the slope is very severe, when i press, the panel gives, maybe not even 2MM, but enough to make a popping noise. i opened the hood to peer underneath, but it is sealed. i tried the exact location, on the right front fender, and no noise. i did that when the car was warm, tried again this morning when cold, still popped.
now, NOTHING is loose, falling off, all gaps are totally fine, so i am wondering what the culprit is. if in fact there is anything to be worried about at all.....
anyone elses car do that? should i be concerned? it only does it for about 7-10 inches of the length, one i get close to windshied, it stops, and when i get close to headlight, it stops.
i hope i explained the location as well as possible. how are fenders put on? maybe just a srcew loose inside that i can't see?
I thought I was missing something, but it's clarified now. I wanted to ask you, is there a purpose for the fenderwell Trim? Does it protect the vehicle in any way?
I have a 2000 Accord V6 with 50K miles. I have been having what seems to be a little problem for some time.
Whenever I sit at idle in drive with the lights on I notice, the outside lights and interior lights dim slightly in cycles and with the dimming of lights the revs drop slightly and then go back up over and over.
Also, my battery keeps forming that crusty white stuff over the negative battery terminal. I have cleaned it off several times only for it to come back. Could it be just that I need a new battery and a new negative battery terminal?
Hey Everyone! I love this website.. finally a forum where I can talk to other Honda owners. Thanks for all the great advice... I havent tried the additives yet. Although I did switch from 89 to 87 when gas prices skyrocketed. The reason I thought it might be an ignition issue was because my tach starts to bounce around when the problem starts. I've been trying to replicate it but it seems a bit random. Thanks again for all the tips and I'll keep everyone posted! Doug
I don't know if it makes difference with new cars or not, but my 89 Accord accelerates better with premium gas. I fill one premium tank between 3 regular tanks.
No fuel or lubrication problems with any engine. I don't think MMO is necessaary. Nor is Amsoil. Just tune your engine and change the oil as recommended and you'll be just fine.
I'm not picking on you it's just that, Good Grief, how many times are you going to advertise that stuff?
Out of curosity, I went into our shop today and I asked our Service Manager and three different technicians just how often they find bad injectors on a Honda.
The answers I received were..." Never" and "Almost Never". And..." I can't remember when I last changed one"
So, I suppose if you still feel there is some benefit to using MMM then go right ahead.
As short of a time that you keep your cars I have to REALLY wonder why you do this.
Followup to post 6715/16 - posting this as info to others that may have CEL emissions problems. '99 4cyl LX w/84K miles.
bburton thanks for your reply. That is a nice service provided by Autozone! Code said bad cat converter so I quit messing with gas caps etc.
Took to dealer, $55 for same CEL code pull. $950 for the new cat converter - but Honda goodwill came thru and covered it! The CEL appeared @ 82K - just a bit outside the (extended warranty). I was quite pleased with Honda support. But that wasn't the end. Three weeks later CEL was back. This time with poor fuel performance and pungent white exhaust fumes on cold mornings. Back to dealer - turned out O2 sensor code. This $350 was on me. Seems to run fine now - hope this is end of story. Dealer couldn't (wouldn't) tell me if the two problems were unrelated, one caused the other, or there is probably still an upstream problem which hasn't been found yet. From my reading - neither cat conv. nor O2 sensor should fail by themselves. Never have used any fuel additive. Throttle body has been serviced (assume they used additive here) and we do have reformulated gas in area.
All in all quite satisfied with Honda & dealer service. Shouldn't lose a cat conv @ 80K but on the other hand I think most other mfrs would have said 'tough luck-you're warranty is over'.
I had almost the same situation you described with my 95 Toyota; check code came out as cat converter not functioning. Thankfully I was still under the years/mileage requirement for the Federal Emissions Warranty, so the whole thing was replaced at no cost to me. Never found out what shut down the cat, but I do remember reading somewhere that if you use certain engine cleaners or lubricants under the hood, that care must be taken to avoid any of the spray from getting inside the air intake system. It seems some of the chemicals (maybe silicone?), react with the elements of the cat and render it non-operational.
Before we have another 100 messages on MMO I obtained an MSDS on Marvel Mystery Oil. You can't change anyones mind that uses the stuff and there are many that add it to lawn mowers, airplanes, cars, boat engines, etc,. It can't hurt anything and it may clean a few things. You decide.
30% Kerosene{petroleum}, Hydrotreated {mineral spirits}, CAS# 64743-47-8. Solvent Refined Heavy Napthenic Distillate, Petroleum {Napthenic}. CAS# 64742-63-8, 64741-96-4. There may be < than 1% of secret "angel dust" added which they don't have to report I dunno. Red colored Liquid, Boiling Point 313f., Flash point 140f., Soluble in water? negligible.
Is it worth paying for petroleum distillates and heavy napthenic oil? As I said before: You decide.
With gasoline being dormant (and acquiring the chemical properties of the gas tank, not to mention carrying fuel line gunk to injectors/carburetors upon initial fire-up) in lawn mowers, boats and gas-powered tools for long durations of non-use, we can see how additives can be beneficial.
For daily-use vehicles, those conditions don't apply. Also, oil companies starting mixing fuel system detergent in gasoline a long time ago for competitiveness reasons.
Electronic Fuel Injection has proved to be the most precise, reliable and cost effective method of delivering fuel to the combustion chambers of today's vehicles, if the system is maintained properly. The EFI system, (if operating correctly), must provide the correct air / fuel ratio for all engine loads, speeds and temperature conditions. Fuel injection involves spaying or injecting fuel directly into the engine's intake ports. The EFI System offers the following advantages over a basic Carb Fuel System: ---These include: ---1.) Improved driveability under all conditions, ---2.) Improved fuel control and economy, ---3.) Decreased exhaust emissions, ---4.) Increased engine efficiency and power. ---BUT, for this to happen, the components of the system must be operational and clean! As little as a 10% reduction in fuel flow of any injector can result in driveability problems. These problems include; ---uneven idle, reduced power, poor fuel economy, hard starting and stalling. Valve deposits are more fuel related today than in the past. Intake Valve Deposits affect the flow characteristics of the air / fuel mixture robbing the engine of power. In addition, intake valve deposits also absorb fuel on start-up until they become saturated. As a result, these deposits can cause a lean fuel condition during warm up. Some automotive experts believe that fuel injectors should be replaced every 80,000 to 100,000 miles as part of the regular maintenance program for a vehicle, to maintain engine efficiency. This is because they believe that the internal parts of the injectors simply wear out over time, (lack of lubrication in the fuel). Over the years, there have been some problems with deposits on the injector tips in the past. Since small quantities of gum are present in gasoline, injector deposits usually occur when the gum bakes onto the injector after a hot engine is shut off. An injector that does not open causes hard starts on a Port Type System. An injector that is stuck partially open causes loss of fuel pressure and flooding due to raw fuel dribbling into the engine. In addition to a rich running engine, a leaking injector also causes the engine to diesel or "run on" when the ignition is turned off. A build up of gum and other deposits on the tip of an enjector can reduce the amount of fuel sprayed by the injector, or they can prevent the injector from totally sealing, allowing it to leak. Since injectors on Port Systems are subjected to more heat they have more problems with tip deposits than TBI units.
WHY FUEL PUMPS FAIL? Fuel pumps rely on fuel passing through the unit for unit lubrication and cooling, (so, as you can see, there is a need for lubrication in the fuel system). FUEL STARVATION, (a low fuel level in the tank), can be another factor that accelerates fuel pump wear.
Knowing this information, you can take one of two "points of view" about the available gasoline. ----1.) The gasoline that is available today has all the necessary additives in large enough quantities to protect the fuel system components, ---- or ----2.) The gasoline that is available today only has the mimimum additives to protect the fuel system components, and there is a need for some type of fuel additive. ----The choice is yours! -----Greg
"acquiring the chemical properties of the gas tank, not to mention carrying fuel line gunk to injectors"
Can someone explain how gasoline acquires the chemical properties of the gas tank? Is this the tank for storage at the fuel farm or the car tank?
What gunk is in the fuel line? The gasoline is continuously being circulated to the fuel injectors under pressure and the excess volume is returned to the tank. Each time a molecule of gasoline travels through this loop it goes through the tank inlet filter and then through a line filter before getting to the injects. The repetitive circulation eventually circulates all the fuel through the filters. I don't know the equations for that but I believe they were related to Taylor functions???
Is someone trying to say that the MMO lubricates the injectors? or that the MMO is a cleaner for the fuel system? The contents list doesn't support either. You might be better off buying a gallon of paint thinner at Lowes and dumping it in... Of if you want to degunk, just put in liquid sandpaper chemicals...
Well, I checked with the owner and chief mechanic of a very popular and respected independent Honda repair shop in my area, and he says that injector problems in Honda's are extremely rare. Outright failure is almost unheard of. He also said that, in his opinion, any lubrication needs of injector and fuel pump parts is more than adequately handled by the components in gasoline. He's been in the business of maintaining and repairing cars of many years, and he recommends against using top cylinder lubricants such as Marvel Mystery Oil.
I've done additional research myself, and many other automotive experts recommend AGAINST the use of top cylinder lubricants as well.
So, I agree, the choice is yours. I choose to not waste my money and take chances with extra additives with unproven benefits that the manufacturer doesn't recommend.
My '03 EXL has about 12,000 miles on it. Recently, the brakes (sounds like right side) have begun to squeal, sometimes worse than others. I feel this is a little early for brakes to begin squealing, is Honda replacing the '03's brake pads free of charge w/the "new" ones that were put on the '04s or should I learn to live with the squeals? Thanks!
I have a 2000 Accord V6 with 50K miles. I have been having what seems to be a little problem for some time.
Whenever I sit at idle in drive with the lights on I notice, the outside lights and interior lights dim slightly in cycles and with the dimming of lights the revs drop slightly and then go back up over and over.
Also, my battery keeps forming that crusty white stuff over the negative battery terminal. I have cleaned it off several times only for it to come back. Could it be just that I need a new battery and a new negative battery terminal?
....as you may notice, there have been some posts removed (emails will be sent soon) and some posts have been moved. The off topic posts and for those who wish to continue discussing fuel/oil additives you may do so here.
The white stuff forms over the negative terminal because there's a leak at the terminal. Acid leak is the cause of that. You need to replace the battery. That happened to my Camry and I had to replace the battery and negative connector. But later on I found out that a baking soda solution (baking soda + water) might help remove the deposit on the connector. I think you need to disconnect the battery before you try to clean it this way.
Batteries should be replaced every three years as part of an on going regular maintenace program. Always replace the unit with a "top of the line battery". When the battery is replaced the "starting" and "charging" systems should be tested for efficiency. Everything in the vehicle, especially the computer control system, depends on a high quality battery.
There are many factors affecting battery longevity. To say a battery should be replaced every 3 years as maintenance is just not something I would believe. I've had several cars. My experience is that they've (batteries) mostly lasted 5 years. I've had some go without warning after only two.
First, I respectively disagree that a battery should be changed for the sake of being changed. Many places will do a free check of charging system including battery and then determine condition of battery. Although rare I went 7 years on the OEM battery from Honda, it started fine at conditions at their worse of -15F with a stone cold motor. Furthermore, many batteries are prematurely replaced as a blind method of fixing an electrical problem, of course sometimes it works, other times you waste a battery and pay more for the required repairs. In your case there does not sound to be any problem.
Second the cycling you notice is completely normal. My feeling is that the AC compressor is kicking on and then off causing your slight cycles and slight dimming. Basically a larger load is placed on alternator, it slows down engine, the computer speeds the engine back up to compensate. Nothing to worry about and extremely normal if slight.
Comments
Started out at ~2000 and dropped to below 1000 (~800) when the engine warmed up.
Now the car is running idle at a little above 1000 due to a failed thermostat which I will replace soon.
I also recently posted a comment about the smell of gas while driving. It only happens once every week or two and only last for a minute - like it vents off gas fumes for some reason. I have asked several mechanics and have not got an answer. Most will look at it if it gets worse and does it more often.???
they resurfaced the rotors again, all seems perfect again. the said the new pads were wearing perfectly (they should after only 2500 miles since they were replaced).
anyway, the rep at the dealer, and Honda CO, called me to say that as a "goodwill gesture" they would resurface the rotors. i said okay, but reminded them that this isn't a "goodwill" anything. they took offense because i said that no car should have warped or heat scored rotors so soon. i proceeded to tell them that at this rate, there will be many more goodwill gestures on their part, until my car doesn't require them anymore.
it kills me that they say, because i drive in stop and go traffic, that it is understandable that my rotors would be warped so soon! i have lived in the same place for years (DC area), and yes, traffic is AWFUL, but none of my other cars had the problem. why oh why does Honda let stupid people work for them?? don't they know that their employees are saying, in public, that their rotors are designed NOT to work in stop and go traffic?
anyway, car is perfect for now.
I told them that turning down the rotors is not the real fix, and they told me that is the first step in their repair....just keep watch on it.
They did say that the 2004 were supposed to have different pads than the 2003.
95% of my grand total of aprox 2000 miles were highway miles. It appears that they still have not come up with a fix to this issue.
One Honda Co. person I spoke with a while back (when my brakes first went bad) said that the company was aware of the brake pad problems and was developing a fix. The next person I spoke with (when the problem recurred) said that the issue was mine alone.
Honda can't seem to get its story straight.
The company did agree to replace my rotors and pads gratis, however, so I have to give Honda props for that.
honda says it controls the idle during warm up and
the plastic nut inside comes loose and causes that problem. it fixed mine. the valve has 2
small cooling lines attached..
My 2003 Accord had problems by the 3000 mark, with pronounced shudder. I had serivice then, but Honda didn't have the new brake pads available yet. After another 3000 miles, I went back in for the same work.
The service department then knew of the new pads and replaced them and the rotors. After driving 10,000 miles on the new brakes they are like NIGHT AND DAY! The braking is more linear, easier to modulate, and they are silent and show absolutely no sign of rotor problems.
Grand High Poobah
The Fraternal Order of Procrastinators
I am having a problem with hesitation under acceleration at @ 3200 rpm... not just a little hesitation, almost to the point of stalling. And only while driving, not while revving in neutral. I've replaced the plugs, cap & rotor and still have this problem. I'm thinking maybe coil? or maybe a problem with the PGMFI? Anyone ever have the same problem and what did you do to correct it? Thanks for any help!
Greg just said at his dealer you have to pay to belong to a 'club' to receive loaner service.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Like yours my 89 Accord had trouble going beyond
3K RPM (70 mph) and seemed to stall there.
I had been using cheap gas until I noticed this hesitation. After using 3 bottles of Chevron fuel injector cleaner (one with every other tank full), the hesitation went away and no problem running 85 mph now. I wanted to replace the fuel filter which has about 130K miles on it. It looks like I can wait until this summer.
It costs 10 bucks for a box of 4 bottles at Costco.
Don't forget to check the air filter too.
left front fender, right below the hood, so still very much on top of the wheel well (as you know, our hoods are thin, and fenders thick). about halfway up from headlights, just below the hood, where the slope is very severe, when i press, the panel gives, maybe not even 2MM, but enough to make a popping noise. i opened the hood to peer underneath, but it is sealed. i tried the exact location, on the right front fender, and no noise. i did that when the car was warm, tried again this morning when cold, still popped.
now, NOTHING is loose, falling off, all gaps are totally fine, so i am wondering what the culprit is. if in fact there is anything to be worried about at all.....
anyone elses car do that? should i be concerned? it only does it for about 7-10 inches of the length, one i get close to windshied, it stops, and when i get close to headlight, it stops.
i hope i explained the location as well as possible. how are fenders put on? maybe just a srcew loose inside that i can't see?
THANKS for input!
I thought I was missing something, but it's clarified now. I wanted to ask you, is there a purpose for the fenderwell Trim? Does it protect the vehicle in any way?
Thanks
Whenever I sit at idle in drive with the lights on I notice, the outside lights and interior lights dim slightly in cycles and with the dimming of lights the revs drop slightly and then go back up over and over.
Also, my battery keeps forming that crusty white stuff over the negative battery terminal. I have cleaned it off several times only for it to come back. Could it be just that I need a new battery and a new negative battery terminal?
Thanks in advance for any help provided.
I love this website.. finally a forum where I can talk to other Honda owners. Thanks for all the great advice... I havent tried the additives yet. Although I did switch from 89 to 87 when gas prices skyrocketed. The reason I thought it might be an ignition issue was because my tach starts to bounce around when the problem starts. I've been trying to replicate it but it seems a bit random. Thanks again for all the tips and I'll keep everyone posted! Doug
Out of curosity, I went into our shop today and I asked our Service Manager and three different technicians just how often they find bad injectors on a Honda.
The answers I received were..." Never" and "Almost Never". And..." I can't remember when I last changed one"
So, I suppose if you still feel there is some benefit to using MMM then go right ahead.
As short of a time that you keep your cars I have to REALLY wonder why you do this.
But...that's O.K....to each his own.
bburton thanks for your reply. That is a nice service provided by Autozone! Code said bad cat converter so I quit messing with gas caps etc.
Took to dealer, $55 for same CEL code pull. $950 for the new cat converter - but Honda goodwill came thru and covered it! The CEL appeared @ 82K - just a bit outside the (extended warranty). I was quite pleased with Honda support. But that wasn't the end. Three weeks later CEL was back. This time with poor fuel performance and pungent white exhaust fumes on cold mornings. Back to dealer - turned out O2 sensor code. This $350 was on me. Seems to run fine now - hope this is end of story. Dealer couldn't (wouldn't) tell me if the two problems were unrelated, one caused the other, or there is probably still an upstream problem which hasn't been found yet. From my reading - neither cat conv. nor O2 sensor should fail by themselves. Never have used any fuel additive. Throttle body has been serviced (assume they used additive here) and we do have reformulated gas in area.
All in all quite satisfied with Honda & dealer service. Shouldn't lose a cat conv @ 80K but on the other hand I think most other mfrs would have said 'tough luck-you're warranty is over'.
30% Kerosene{petroleum}, Hydrotreated {mineral spirits}, CAS# 64743-47-8. Solvent Refined Heavy Napthenic Distillate, Petroleum {Napthenic}. CAS# 64742-63-8, 64741-96-4. There may be < than 1% of secret "angel dust" added which they don't have to report I dunno.
Red colored Liquid, Boiling Point 313f., Flash point 140f., Soluble in water? negligible.
Is it worth paying for petroleum distillates and heavy napthenic oil? As I said before: You decide.
When I looked up this product's source, I found it's now made by turtle wax company... 'nough said.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
For daily-use vehicles, those conditions don't apply. Also, oil companies starting mixing fuel system detergent in gasoline a long time ago for competitiveness reasons.
The EFI system, (if operating correctly), must provide the correct air / fuel ratio for all engine loads, speeds and temperature conditions.
Fuel injection involves spaying or injecting fuel directly into the engine's intake ports. The EFI System offers the following advantages over a basic Carb Fuel System: ---These include: ---1.) Improved driveability under all conditions, ---2.) Improved fuel control and economy, ---3.) Decreased exhaust emissions, ---4.) Increased engine efficiency and power. ---BUT, for this to happen, the components of the system must be operational and clean!
As little as a 10% reduction in fuel flow of any injector can result in driveability problems. These problems include; ---uneven idle, reduced power, poor fuel economy, hard starting and stalling.
Valve deposits are more fuel related today than in the past. Intake Valve Deposits affect the flow characteristics of the air / fuel mixture robbing the engine of power. In addition, intake valve deposits also absorb fuel on start-up until they become saturated. As a result, these deposits can cause a lean fuel condition during warm up.
Some automotive experts believe that fuel injectors should be replaced every 80,000 to 100,000 miles as part of the regular maintenance program for a vehicle, to maintain engine efficiency. This is because they believe that the internal parts of the injectors simply wear out over time, (lack of lubrication in the fuel).
Over the years, there have been some problems with deposits on the injector tips in the past. Since small quantities of gum are present in gasoline, injector deposits usually occur when the gum bakes onto the injector after a hot engine is shut off. An injector that does not open causes hard starts on a Port Type System. An injector that is stuck partially open causes loss of fuel pressure and flooding due to raw fuel dribbling into the engine. In addition to a rich running engine, a leaking injector also causes the engine to diesel or "run on" when the ignition is turned off.
A build up of gum and other deposits on the tip of an enjector can reduce the amount of fuel sprayed by the injector, or they can prevent the injector from totally sealing, allowing it to leak. Since injectors on Port Systems are subjected to more heat they have more problems with tip deposits than TBI units.
WHY FUEL PUMPS FAIL?
Fuel pumps rely on fuel passing through the unit for unit lubrication and cooling, (so, as you can see, there is a need for lubrication in the fuel system). FUEL STARVATION, (a low fuel level in the tank), can be another factor that accelerates fuel pump wear.
Knowing this information, you can take one of two "points of view" about the available gasoline. ----1.) The gasoline that is available today has all the necessary additives in large enough quantities to protect the fuel system components, ---- or ----2.) The gasoline that is available today only has the mimimum additives to protect the fuel system components, and there is a need for some type of fuel additive. ----The choice is yours! -----Greg
Can someone explain how gasoline acquires the chemical properties of the gas tank? Is this the tank for storage at the fuel farm or the car tank?
What gunk is in the fuel line? The gasoline is continuously being circulated to the fuel injectors under pressure and the excess volume is returned to the tank. Each time a molecule of gasoline travels through this loop it goes through the tank inlet filter and then through a line filter before getting to the injects. The repetitive circulation eventually circulates all the fuel through the filters. I don't know the equations for that but I believe they were related to Taylor functions???
Is someone trying to say that the MMO lubricates the injectors? or that the MMO is a cleaner for the fuel system? The contents list doesn't support either. You might be better off buying a gallon of paint thinner at Lowes and dumping it in... Of if you want to degunk, just put in liquid sandpaper chemicals...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I've done additional research myself, and many other automotive experts recommend AGAINST the use of top cylinder lubricants as well.
So, I agree, the choice is yours. I choose to not waste my money and take chances with extra additives with unproven benefits that the manufacturer doesn't recommend.
Whenever I sit at idle in drive with the lights on I notice, the outside lights and interior lights dim slightly in cycles and with the dimming of lights the revs drop slightly and then go back up over and over.
Also, my battery keeps forming that crusty white stuff over the negative battery terminal. I have cleaned it off several times only for it to come back. Could it be just that I need a new battery and a new negative battery terminal?
Thanks in advance for any help provided.
It's kinda talking to you..." This is the end, mate!"
Seriously, these are signs of impending doom. You should be able to simply clean of that corroded terminal if it's not too bad.
Second the cycling you notice is completely normal. My feeling is that the AC compressor is kicking on and then off causing your slight cycles and slight dimming. Basically a larger load is placed on alternator, it slows down engine, the computer speeds the engine back up to compensate. Nothing to worry about and extremely normal if slight.
Snarks is right, don't replace for the heck of it. It's environmentally unfriendly. Get it tested for free at Autozone.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.