Extech, thanks for some pointers.. I'll look at the dist cap this w'end. As you had wrote, if that relay is for the fuel pump, i'll research that and see what $$ it costs, and I do feel more comfortable that if this relay just is old and contacts are worn, that it may need replacing. Also, because of the fact that the engine starts immediately after a stall, I would figure turning off the ignition switch and on would reconnect the contacts in that relay...again, will look at this shortly. Thanks for the response. Ger
My 04 Silver 2.4L Coupe just reached 5K few days ago. Today I checked the coolant level which was in the middle of max and min a month ago, and the level is now at the low level. I read from some board (driveaccord.net) saying that it is normal for the new engine to eat away coolant sometimes.
Is this really normal? Will this happen again after, say, 10K?
According to the manual, I should use Honda coolant, but I think it should be ok if I buy major-brand coolant and add it myself, right? Or I should go and buy Honda coolant since Honda manual says to repleace engine coolant at 120K or 10 years?
Let the car sit overnight then check the level in the morning. If the level is below MIN, fill it up to MIN or between MIN&MAX.
Did you check the level a month ago when the engine was hot? I bet you did.
Prestone brand will do. Make sure you mix it 50/50. I use distilled water for mixing.
I wouldn't wait 120K/10 yrs to replace coolant in my 03EXV6. Flushing coolant is cheap, replacing a corroded radiator is expensive. Also, I wouldn't wait 105K to change the spark plugs either. Spark plugs are cheap. When the plug and the head become one, it's expensive to replace it.
I did check the level in the morning before I went out. However, I suspect that when I checked the level a month ago, I might check when the engine was hot (I'm not sure).
Anyway, I think I will go to my dealer today to make sure if anything is OK just for a peace of mind.
I have a 2003 Accord V6 with just under 13,000 miles. I started having a problem with the brakes a few weeks ago. It seemed like I was having to brake harder to stop the car, but I thought it might be my imagination. Then I was stopping to make a left turn and suddenly the brake pedal went to the floor and I kept rolling. I made my turn and the brakes seemed fine after that, but I took the car to the dealership the next morning. After one the mechanics almost drove the car through the rear wall of the garage, they realized I had a real problem and replaced the master cylinder under the warranty.
Turn over and cranks means the same. I think you mean the engine cranks but fails to fire up. Before trying to start it, gently remove one spark plug wire and attach it to another spark plug, it doesn't need to be from a Honda. Hold this plug about a quarter inch from any metal part in the engine compartment and ask someone to start the car. If there is spark but the engine fails to fire, you might have a fuel delivery problem. By the way, the car will start and run on three cylinders, but shut the engine off before placing back the plug wire or you will get a good shock. If you don't get any spark it might be an ignition switch, igniter, rotor or distributor problem. Any of those will act up intermittently, so it takes a while to diagnose to source of the problem. To diagnose a fuel delivery problem, the quickest way is to loosen up one of the connector bolts in the fuel line leading to the injectors. This is very dangereous and could cause a fire, so it should be done only by two people who both know what's going on. Basically, if there is no fuel squirting out of the fuel line connector after it is loosened up and the engine is being cranked, you might suspect a fuel pump relay or a fuel pump. Both of these are known to act up intermittently before failing completely. It is hard for even experienced techs to diagnose, because it seldom happens in a predictable sequence. Good luck. If you can tell your mechanic that you have spark, but no fuel pressure, he will have a much easier time with the troubleshooting.
Dealer called me 6PM Wednesday...car is ready. Said I could pick up on Thurs. Went to dealer Thursday 2:30PM. They brought my car up and as a habit, I take a quick check under the hood for loose items, tools, damage, etc. (this is from a prior experience). I noticed the radiator reservior was empty. I opened the rad. cap, I could see no water all the way down to the core. I also noticed a plastic piece on top of the engine (near the "H" VTEC symbols) was cracked in half. I summoned the service writer who said he'd send it back to the tech.
After about 20 minutes, the writer came and told me there was an 'air bubble' in the rad. fluid so the tech thought it was full. But supposedly when running the engine, the level went down. AND he stated the cooling fan sensor switch was intermittent and the thermostat was also intermittent. I needed to spend another $175 (on top of my $1100 for timing belt and alternator) to replace the parts. Needless to say, this really pissed me off. I could have driven off the lot and fried my engine on my 35 mile commute due to insufficient radiator fluid. He said I could take the car and risk a failure or have the job fixed. So I reluctantly approved the work. This took another 1 hour. (In the very beginning, I had asked to have the car washed and it wasn't washed yet!) Another 20 minute wait.
While waiting for the wash, I decided to express my frustrations to the Service Manager. After a quick explanation, the service writer was called in and the Manager made the $175 job a 'no charge' to the customer. And she apologized and said she'd speak to the technician (as it was his fault and not the service writer). (BTW, the cracked plastic piece was ordered at their expense and is an easy 'snap on' part)
In conclusion, it pays to speak to the authorities when you are not satisfied with your service. Since you pay more for dealer service than an independent shop, you should get more.
A side note, I'm not sure if anyone else in this group has experienced an alternator failure in the '98 Accord. But the service writer said it was unusual. He said it either fails at 20K or not at all. Oddly enough, while waiting for my car yesterday, another '98 Accord V6 came in with the exact same alternator problem!! Weird!
Hope this helps all fellow '98 Accord V6 owners. (sorry for the loooong post)
I hope this is not the case. But it's anyone's guess.
I think I can verify the fan relay change (It's somewhere on the bottom of the engine??) But how do I check the thermostat without removing the radiator hose?
I hope this is not the case. But it's anyone's guess.
I think I can verify the fan relay change (It's somewhere on the bottom of the engine??) But how do I check the thermostat without removing the radiator hose?
I hope this is not the case. But it's anyone's guess.
I think I can verify the fan relay change (It's somewhere on the bottom of the engine??) But how do I check the thermostat without removing the radiator hose?
I have exactly the same problem with my 2003 CRV EX. It's been a year now and 13000 kms. I have accepted it and adjusted to it but I've never enjoyed the driving experience anymore. I'm just waiting for the right moment to replace this.
Sorry for posting here. I just want to share my experience here. Seems in the CRV forum I didn't find anybody who treated this as a problem.
I think I will try the Fuel Injector cleaning after the service department looks at on Tuesday. Its still under warranty so better late then never! I know there is a TSB out for the hesitation, along with the thump when starting. So hopefully they can finally find something!
i have a 91 accord ex. it is a great car and will do 120mph easy, as i just got out of jail for recless opperation. anyways when the radiator fan comes on i notice my stereo lower and my ac fan slow. i have replaced my battery and alternater to no avail. when the radiator fan is off my voltage is around 14.2 volts. with the fan on it drops to just at 11 volts and even lower if i jamming my stereo
The sunroof on my 89 Accord LX-i is clogged... well the drain holes are, I find myself soaked when I go in reverse, does anyone have any ideas as to how to unclog the holes. I was thinking if I opened the sunroof an then somehow sealed my car from the inside, I could take a pressure wash hose at a car wash an spray it inside the holes. But thats the only idea I have thought of, please help.
I would like to hear from you after you get the car fixed. I don't know if the same TSB's apply to US models but I will see how mine performs and ask the dealer to look at it if necessary. I don't have the thump on starting problem so I can't comment on that one. I just passed 16,000 miles today and so far I am very happy with the Accord (I have had it for about 7 weeks). I would use the injector cleaner about 3 times a year or right after each oil change (I had it done 3 times a year which comes to about 3,500 miles or 4 months on my old car).
I always run a fuel additive in both the 2003 Accord and the 2004 Civic. Some people believe that it is a waste of money, but fuel injectors cost $100.00 each when they go bad. The fuel additive that I use only adds $.80 to a full tank of fuel on the Accord, and $.40 to a full tank of fuel on the Civic. I don't think that this will "break the bank"! If you are interested in additional information, you can contact me at: ggcordano@yahoo.com Have a nice day! ----Greg
Hello isda65 -- nice to see your post! I thought my clutch problem was an isolated case. Now there are at least 4 of us in this forum who are experiencing the same problem with the springy clutch release, stutter/hesitation, not smooth acceleration when releasing the clutch after shifting to the 2nd gear (sometimes 3rd gear). The problem is particularly noticeable when driving in regular traffic -- less when driving slowly on a parking lot.
This springy sensitive clutch, coupled with a rather so-so engine that behaves like it has a stuffy nose (I can feel some hesitation when trying to press harder on the gas to accelerate, particularly noticeable on lower gears (2nd and 3rd). In addition, the acceleration is not consistent. Sometimes I can feel the power as I accelerate from a stop; most of the time, the engine is already roaring and yet I don't feel a significant forward acceleration thrust or power, even on a fairly flat road. You press the gas further and you can feel that stuffy-nose-like hesitation/vibration (as this Accord struggles).
Unfortunately, I'm stuck with this Accord 03 LX MT. I'm hesitant to sell it because I don't want my buyer to be cursing me later. Trading it in, in my opinion, gives unearned dollars into the pockets of "smart" auto salesmen, who don't offer you a fair price for your car.
Have you taken the car to the dealer? If the problem is as obvious as you are claiming then you should have the car looked at. I have owned 2 manual transmission Accords from this generation and they have both shifted superbly and acceleration has been smooth.
I have a 1992 Honda Accord EX with Auto transmission and has 147,000 miles. Lately I have the exactly same transmission problem as you(#7701) described.
I had added a bottle of lubeguard conditioner(suggested by auto.consumerguide.com) and changed(flushed) with new Honda transmission fluid several times, but this problem is still on when I start the engine in the morning and it goes off when the engine(transmission fluid) runs hot. It is on and off situation now.
Has anyone heard about tranny problems in the '04 Accord 4 cyl 5 speed automatics? An article in a Cleveland sunday paper mentioned that Honda will not fix after Dec.31,04. I called the dealership where I purchased mine from in July and was told the problem was with the v-6. Anybody know who is right?
There was a recall of V6 ATs for possible heat build-up problem under certain driving conditions. Recalled cars receive a permanent fix that is supposed to prevent gear failure.
So far, there has been no recall of ATs on 4 cylinder Accords which for whatever reasons don't have that problem. If there were such a problem it's a sure thing that Honda would face it rather than have hundreds of thousands of failed automatics ruining Honda's reputation and superior resale value.
Few Accord owners actually experience AT problems considering the volume of Accords sold......Richard
Hi everyone, I have a 1991 Accord LX with 215,000 miles on it. I just started having problems with the blinkers. It makes the blinker noise without the blinker being on. I did notice some smoke coming out of the handle where you turn the blinkers on so i took out the fuse, i looked at the fuse it looked ok and then i tried a replacement 7.5 fuse that was a extra one on the fuse compartment and it still made the noise. any Ideas would be welcome. I would like to try and fix it myself if possible. thank you
Gibney, you mentioned that your dad's spare key didn't work any more and you thought the computer chip had lost its setting or something like that.
My question is: Did the spare keys ever work?
Maybe the computer chip in the spare key was never set correctly.
One time we asked for two spare keys when we bought a Honda Accord, and they agreed. The salesman later mentioned that the keys would only work to open the doors, meaning that the computer chip would not be set so the keys could be used to start the car. Maybe the same thing happened to your dad.
I was trying to find a discussion regarding the defective transmissions, so apologies if I'm stirring up an old topic. I just took my car in today for the heat build-up problem and am hoping that everything will be resolved by the end of the day. Has anyone on here had to have their transmission replaced? If so, how many miles did u have on your car?
My 97 accord has gotten where it doesnt want to shift into overdrive unless the car is on flat lever ground.If your going up even a slight hill the trans shifts down and will not shift back into overdrive unless you go completey over the hill, then it shifts into overdrive.If you start out on a hill, or kick it down on a hill it will not shift into overdrive no matter what you do.It recently stayed in 3rd gear for a couple miles on a hill on interstate. The car is a four cylinder. Has anyone else experienced this?
My 2002 EX is having brake problems. The dealership has replaced the shoes and the master cylinder. Now they are saying they are going to replace the ABS modulator IF the extended warranty people approve the money. When I am completely stopped the brake peddle will then go down to within an inch of the floorboard. Is the dealership giving me a run around? Do I need to contact Honda?
I have just purchased a 2000 EX V6 and have discovered a particularly unnerving noise and occasional very hot front wheels. I read in a previous post about a "too long" rod in the master cylinder? Would this, along with the front brake heat, create the loud "clunk" I hear when backing up? It is going to visit a Honda service center tomorrow. Will they be aware of this? Thanks for any reply.
Extech, Since I had never changed the cap/rotor and spark wires on my wifes car, I inspected the cap/rotor and the rotor was very worn. I also noticed some OIL in the top (side mounted) distributor.. I wiped out the oil, and replaced the cap/rotor, and plug wires. So far the car has not stalled..!! Crossing my fingers on this fix. Thanks,Ger
A reporter is wondering if anyone has had trouble getting parts for cars and trucks from the 1985-1997 model year. If you have a story to share, please send it to jfallon@edmunds.com by Friday, November 19, 2004. Thanks!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I was thinking the warranty recall was only for V6 engines but maybe I'm mistaken - that's what I have. Anyway, I was relieved to only have the kit installed rather than have my transmission replaced. Glad to have her back today!
If you hear a clunk while backing up, it sounds like it may be a transmission issue.
It's covered under Service Bulletin 00-065
SYMPTOM: With reverse gear already selected, the transmission bangs when the vehicle starts to move backward or when the vehicle is accelerated (torque is applied to the transmission).
PROBABLE CAUSE: The reverse selector is not fully engaged into the countershaft reverse gear.
If this is the issue, the transmission is replaced. The 2000 and 2001 Accord V6 models have an extended warranty of 7 years/100,000 miles on the transmission. The only thing I don't know is if the warranty is transferable... I assume that it is. If so, and the car is under 100,000 miles, you should be covered.
Thanks for the info Talon95. Do you know of any issues with the front wheels becoming too hot to touch without any hard braking? This has happened a couple of times as well but not every time it is driven. I bought this car for the reliability, hope I wasn't mistaken. Thanks again.
Before I sold a previous car at 33k miles, I asked some dealers for extended warranty providers. I called a couple and got quotes starting at $750 for coverage up to 100k.
Ultimately I ended up just selling the car, with the buyer getting coverage from a dealer for something like $1,000.
Key things to have in mind: most if not all providers will accept coverage at a fair price if the car is still within the factory warranty / check the provider out completely / be clear about deductible, specific parts covered or not covered and other fine print requirements.
Best bet would be "Honda Care," Honda USA's own warranty coverage.
If anyone on this board is familar with this engine or has the shop manual. Could you tell me where the drain bolt for the coolant is located? I am looking for the drain bolt in engine body not the radiator. Thanx.
We have a 2003 Accord and a 2004 Civic both with a 7 year / 100,000 mile / 0 -deductable extended warranty. The warranty on the Accord was $875.00 and the Civic was $975.00, (at the time of purchase). I would not own a vehicle today without an extended warranty. The cost of repair is just "out of sight"! A simple alternator or starter replacement would almost pay for the cost of the warranty. We will trade our vehicles when they reach 100,000 miles. That will be 7 years for the Civic, and about 5 1/2 years for the Accord. The cost of a transmission replacement would be somewhere between $3,000.00 and $6,000.00 dollars. Within a period of 100,000 miles that repair is very possible! An extended warranty from the manufacturer allows you to travel throughout the United States without the worry of a major repair bill. It is like "life insurance". At some point in time, you will use it!
I am in the 72 hour return period for a 97 honda accord lx automatic trans.125k miles. It is in excellent shape. one problem. The car for lack of a better descrip. 'boggs out' when I am (auto trans)@ 2000 rpm in 3rd gear, 40 mph. It will do this as long as I maintain this reading (+/-) slightly. When I increase on the gas the bogging noise will stop. Another way to describe it is when you are driving a manual trans. and you skip 2nd gear and shift into 3rd. The car will bogg until the rpm's catch up. It's very similar to that feeling and sound. I will also hear the tail pipe whine. I had a prepurchase performed and the mechanic said the exhaust was in good shape. I've read some previous posts about this same noise. Has anyone come to a diagnosis? DB
Did the dealer give you a 72 hour return period? If not, and you are referring to the 72 hour "cooling off" period then it does not apply to your purchase. The cooling off period is only if someone comes to your house and sells you something.
My mother must be going through some serious buyer's remorse. She just bought a 2005 Accord EX.
Problem: On her first night drive, she is complaining that headlights of cars in her rear view mirror are smearing or streaking badly. Her rear view mirror is clean. And to the naked eye, her rear windshield is also clean. This is causing her great irritation. Anyone else having this problem?
Comments
Is this really normal? Will this happen again after, say, 10K?
According to the manual, I should use Honda coolant, but I think it should be ok if I buy major-brand coolant and add it myself, right? Or I should go and buy Honda coolant since Honda manual says to repleace engine coolant at 120K or 10 years?
Did you check the level a month ago when the engine was hot? I bet you did.
Prestone brand will do. Make sure you mix it 50/50. I use distilled water for mixing.
I wouldn't wait 120K/10 yrs to replace coolant in my 03EXV6. Flushing coolant is cheap, replacing a corroded radiator is expensive.
Also, I wouldn't wait 105K to change the spark plugs either. Spark plugs are cheap. When the plug and the head become one, it's expensive to replace it.
I did check the level in the morning before I went out. However, I suspect that when I checked the level a month ago, I might check when the engine was hot (I'm not sure).
Anyway, I think I will go to my dealer today to make sure if anything is OK just for a peace of mind.
To diagnose a fuel delivery problem, the quickest way is to loosen up one of the connector bolts in the fuel line leading to the injectors. This is very dangereous and could cause a fire, so it should be done only by two people who both know what's going on. Basically, if there is no fuel squirting out of the fuel line connector after it is loosened up and the engine is being cranked, you might suspect a fuel pump relay or a fuel pump. Both of these are known to act up intermittently before failing completely. It is hard for even experienced techs to diagnose, because it seldom happens in a predictable sequence. Good luck. If you can tell your mechanic that you have spark, but no fuel pressure, he will have a much easier time with the troubleshooting.
Dealer called me 6PM Wednesday...car is ready. Said I could pick up on Thurs. Went to dealer Thursday 2:30PM. They brought my car up and as a habit, I take a quick check under the hood for loose items, tools, damage, etc. (this is from a prior experience). I noticed the radiator reservior was empty. I opened the rad. cap, I could see no water all the way down to the core. I also noticed a plastic piece on top of the engine (near the "H" VTEC symbols) was cracked in half. I summoned the service writer who said he'd send it back to the tech.
After about 20 minutes, the writer came and told me there was an 'air bubble' in the rad. fluid so the tech thought it was full. But supposedly when running the engine, the level went down. AND he stated the cooling fan sensor switch was intermittent and the thermostat was also intermittent. I needed to spend another $175 (on top of my $1100 for timing belt and alternator) to replace the parts. Needless to say, this really pissed me off. I could have driven off the lot and fried my engine on my 35 mile commute due to insufficient radiator fluid. He said I could take the car and risk a failure or have the job fixed. So I reluctantly approved the work. This took another 1 hour. (In the very beginning, I had asked to have the car washed and it wasn't washed yet!) Another 20 minute wait.
While waiting for the wash, I decided to express my frustrations to the Service Manager. After a quick explanation, the service writer was called in and the Manager made the $175 job a 'no charge' to the customer. And she apologized and said she'd speak to the technician (as it was his fault and not the service writer). (BTW, the cracked plastic piece was ordered at their expense and is an easy 'snap on' part)
In conclusion, it pays to speak to the authorities when you are not satisfied with your service. Since you pay more for dealer service than an independent shop, you should get more.
A side note, I'm not sure if anyone else in this group has experienced an alternator failure in the '98 Accord. But the service writer said it was unusual. He said it either fails at 20K or not at all. Oddly enough, while waiting for my car yesterday, another '98 Accord V6 came in with the exact same alternator problem!! Weird!
Hope this helps all fellow '98 Accord V6 owners.
(sorry for the loooong post)
Gary
Make sure you got the fan relay & the thermotstat replaced.
I think I can verify the fan relay change (It's somewhere on the bottom of the engine??) But how do I check the thermostat without removing the radiator hose?
Please advise.
-D
I think I can verify the fan relay change (It's somewhere on the bottom of the engine??) But how do I check the thermostat without removing the radiator hose?
Please advise.
I think I can verify the fan relay change (It's somewhere on the bottom of the engine??) But how do I check the thermostat without removing the radiator hose?
Please advise.
Sorry for posting here. I just want to share my experience here. Seems in the CRV forum I didn't find anybody who treated this as a problem.
I think I will try the Fuel Injector cleaning after the service department looks at on Tuesday. Its still under warranty so better late then never! I know there is a TSB out for the hesitation, along with the thump when starting. So hopefully they can finally find something!
This springy sensitive clutch, coupled with a rather so-so engine that behaves like it has a stuffy nose (I can feel some hesitation when trying to press harder on the gas to accelerate, particularly noticeable on lower gears (2nd and 3rd). In addition, the acceleration is not consistent. Sometimes I can feel the power as I accelerate from a stop; most of the time, the engine is already roaring and yet I don't feel a significant forward acceleration thrust or power, even on a fairly flat road. You press the gas further and you can feel that stuffy-nose-like hesitation/vibration (as this Accord struggles).
Unfortunately, I'm stuck with this Accord 03 LX MT. I'm hesitant to sell it because I don't want my buyer to be cursing me later. Trading it in, in my opinion, gives unearned dollars into the pockets of "smart" auto salesmen, who don't offer you a fair price for your car.
ramida
--a very disappointed first-time Honda owner
I had added a bottle of lubeguard conditioner(suggested by auto.consumerguide.com) and changed(flushed) with new Honda transmission fluid several times, but this problem is still on when I start the engine in the morning and it goes off when the engine(transmission fluid) runs hot. It is on and off situation now.
Please advise.
So far, there has been no recall of ATs on 4 cylinder Accords which for whatever reasons don't have that problem. If there were such a problem it's a sure thing that Honda would face it rather than have hundreds of thousands of failed automatics ruining Honda's reputation and superior resale value.
Few Accord owners actually experience AT problems considering the volume of Accords sold......Richard
miles on it. I just started having problems with the blinkers. It makes the blinker noise without the blinker being on. I did notice some smoke coming out of the handle where you turn the blinkers on so i took out the fuse, i looked at the fuse it looked ok and then i tried a replacement 7.5 fuse that was a extra one on the fuse compartment and it still made the noise.
any Ideas would be welcome. I would like to try and fix it myself if possible. thank you
My question is: Did the spare keys ever work?
Maybe the computer chip in the spare key was never set correctly.
One time we asked for two spare keys when we bought a Honda Accord, and they agreed. The salesman later mentioned that the keys would only work to open the doors, meaning that the computer chip would not be set so the keys could be used to start the car. Maybe the same thing happened to your dad.
Thanks,Ger
Thanks!
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Review your vehicle
It's covered under Service Bulletin 00-065
SYMPTOM: With reverse gear already selected, the transmission bangs when the vehicle starts to move backward or when the vehicle is accelerated (torque is applied to the transmission).
PROBABLE CAUSE: The reverse selector is not fully engaged into the countershaft reverse gear.
If this is the issue, the transmission is replaced. The 2000 and 2001 Accord V6 models have an extended warranty of 7 years/100,000 miles on the transmission. The only thing I don't know is if the warranty is transferable... I assume that it is. If so, and the car is under 100,000 miles, you should be covered.
Ultimately I ended up just selling the car, with the buyer getting coverage from a dealer for something like $1,000.
Key things to have in mind: most if not all providers will accept coverage at a fair price if the car is still within the factory warranty / check the provider out completely / be clear about deductible, specific parts covered or not covered and other fine print requirements.
Best bet would be "Honda Care," Honda USA's own warranty coverage.
Extended Warranties
one problem.
The car for lack of a better descrip. 'boggs out' when I am (auto trans)@ 2000 rpm in 3rd gear, 40 mph. It will do this as long as I maintain this reading (+/-) slightly. When I increase on the gas the bogging noise will stop. Another way to describe it is when you are driving a manual trans. and you skip 2nd gear and shift into 3rd. The car will bogg until the rpm's catch up. It's very similar to that feeling and sound. I will also hear the tail pipe whine. I had a prepurchase performed and the mechanic said the exhaust was in good shape.
I've read some previous posts about this same noise. Has anyone come to a diagnosis?
DB
I'm gonna take it to a transmission place just to be sure.
Problem: On her first night drive, she is complaining that headlights of cars in her rear view mirror are smearing or streaking badly. Her rear view mirror is clean. And to the naked eye, her rear windshield is also clean. This is causing her great irritation. Anyone else having this problem?
Any suggestions?
Thanks!