"However dash creeks or clicks from drivers side dash when goes over bumps".
Bring your car to the nearest dealer immediately if it is under 36,000 miles/ less than 3 years. The dealer probably uses some special materials to seal off those parts under the dash. It happened to my son's Accord V6 EX coupe too. It is still under Honda's warranty. They said "it is mechanical problem".
On 3 occasions, my new 2004 Accord EX transmission with just under 4,000 mi hasn't gone into reverse after moving the shift lever to reverse. After the first time, I took the car to the dealership. After parking, it repeated the problem for the tech, but after getting into the service bay, it couldn't be replicated. The service dept reported no other tech bulletins about this. The third occasion was when I attempted to back out of my garage in the morning. Temperatures were normal in every case. Anyone ever experienced this?
I don't know if this is related, but there was a TSB for the 2003 Accord for a "no-reverse" condition. This was only supposed to happen when you shifted repeatedly in and out of reverse, such as when trying to rock the car out of snow. Clearly from your report, this isn't the situation in your case. And it isn't supposed to affect '04 models.
But you may want to mention it anyway... at least there's a precedent for a "no-reverse" condition, so perhaps you can use that to persuade them to take action.
Service Bulletin 03-042 Product Update: No-Reverse Condition (Supersedes 03-042, dated October 7, 2003)
BACKGROUND If a vehicle is stuck in snow and the transmission is shifted several times between a forward drive gear and reverse (at wheel speeds above 12 mph), a no-reverse condition can develop.
VEHICLES AFFECTED 2003 Accord L4 A/T 2-Door: From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001 thru 1HGCM7...3A023877 2003 Accord L4 A/T 4-Door: From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001 thru 1HGCM5...3A080789 From VIN 3HGCM5...3G700001 thru 3HGCM5...3G705659 From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001 thru JHMCM5...3C077295
Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this product update. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items: • The customer has a notification letter. • The vehicle is shown on your campaign responsibility report. • The vehicle is shown as eligible on an i N VIN status inquiry.
There must be something wrong with your car. Most of the posts I've seen on Edmunds Forums show mileage for the new 4 cyl AT Accord similar to my experience which is 22.6 mpg in the city, and 33.2 on the highway. Average is about 25 mpg to 27 mpg.
You mention that you haven't read the pump volume when you fill up--you must try to be accurate.
Fill the tank, drive until near empty, divide the exact miles you drove since filling by the number of gallons it takes to refill the tank. That will give you the average mileage for the amount of fuel you consumed.
Please don't try to estimate the gas you used by looking at the gauge--that might be the problem........Richard
Lucky You!! I'm not talking about something that is not there. I do have better things to do with my time than drive back and forth to the Honda dealer with "new cars." I'm not saying they have a problem from year to year, but they do have one where the two cars I got came from. You do have the same reaction as everyone -- until they see it themselves.
I have also had two other new Hondas before the 04' and never had a problem, or I would not have bought again.
I have a 2003 Accord V6. Over the past year and a half we've had several relatively minor electrical problems. The switch controlling the chime that goes off if you leave your headlights on or keys in the ignition malfunctioned. The radio tuner display for the radio, clock and CD player malfunctioned and had to be replaced. Now the driver side power window has stopped working and a regulator needs to be replaced. Given the Accord's reputation I was a little surprised by these problems and am curious whether anyone else has had similar problems. I haven't raised a stink about it with the dealer yet, but my wife and I are a little annoyed and a little concerned.
I had $1 for every problem mentioned on this board that you've "never heard of," I'd be rich woman. I guess you spend more time on the showroom floor than in the repair shop.
At any rate, it doesn't matter whether you've heard of a problem or not.
If there is "chemical fallout" it is at the production plant or the dealership. I know there is absolutely nothing I am doing that could cause this to happen. I am in as much disbelief as everyone else. Since I know it is not my doing, I also know that whether or not Honda is going to admit to this, sooner or later there will be others who will discover the same problem. Good chance many others already have this on their white 04's or 05's and do not notice it yet. My eye can find it now since the 04' got so bad after a few months. It is extremely evident when the car is under a streelight at night.
My bet is something wrong with the primer before painting since the top paint is fine in the beginning, but yellows over the areas after time.
I have a 2002 accord V6 with a idle that surges from about 1200-2000 rpm, no engine light. It doesn't change after warm up. Anyone have any ideas before I pay the $50 for a diagnostic check that may not help me.
Try to check by looking at the gas pump "gallons pumped". In many cars, the gauge reads empty when the tank is far from it (perhaps the mfr thinks we are protected that way - I don't). On my Subaru, if I used the gauge to assess "empty", my calculated mileage would drop by 40%! It reads very low, very early.
If you still have a problem, you'll at least have evidence.
Under normal driving conditions the engine suddenly stopped and the dash lit up like xmas! I turned the car off and it restarted as if nothing was wrong. Over the last 30 days the car has stalled at least once a day. No light show, just a sudden shut down. No idiot lights...nothing and for no apparent reason. I suspect electrical (maybe fuel pump or ignition module). I reviewed most of this forum and found several similar posts but, with no apparent solutions. The car usually starts right up as if nothing was wrong once I reset the ingnition to "off" then "restart". ANY SUGGESTIONS? 99 Accord 4cyl AT 42k miles
Well, I'm in a position where I see a whole lot more Hondas both new and used than the average person. Therefore If I've never heard of a problem it's probably not that much of a "problem". In the case of Honda paint jobs, the sky is NOT falling!
I don't doubt the poster has a paint problem. Since it affect both of their cars I strongly suspect "something" has happened. It's possible it's a factory problem but I doubt it.
I was even thinking that something could have happened in transportation or in a storage yard although th cars come covered with sheets of plastic to try and prevent this.
My husband and I purchased a 2003 Accord EX/V6 from Carmax about a month or so ago. We have noticed a lot of minor issues that seem to be addressed in other posts but when I search I can't find any resolutions.
First off we hear a rattle in the drivers door. Carmax has taken the door apart and insulated it but we still hear the rattle is there any way to fix this or do we just need to turn up the radio?
Secondly and most disturbing when you first start the car and begin driving it makes a very strange noise when you turn. It is almost like water moving from one side to the other under the hood. Almost like all the fluids in the engine are moving about in there. I don't mind the noise as long as I know the car does not have any problems.
And finally the brakes squeak. Carmax replaced them but they still squeak. I wonder if that is because they didn't use Honda brakes or if they did and the Honda brakes just squeal.
Carmax seems very happy to try and fix these issues. I don't really want to go to Honda as the warranty is no longer on the vehicle and Carmax will work with us on it. But I am afraid since they don't work exclusively on Honda's they may never get these issues addressed.
The sky is not falling!!! Yes, the car runs beautifully, which is most important, but I would'nt keep a $50.00 item if it was damaged when purchased, nevermind a $24,000 item that should last for many years to come. If I don't address the issue now, in five years I could have a car that noone would buy or trade in if the large areas of paint have disappeared!! THe looks of a vehicle are the first thing someone sees. Brand new products are supposed to look brand new.
That bad batches come out of the best car factories is an unfortunate fact. It therefore makes sense to report to the dealer or manufacturer any defect - no matter how trivial it seems - so the manufacturer can take steps to avoid recurrence for its own sake, as well as ours.
Manufacturers, through the VIN, can correlate production batch quality with material and process specifications at the time of manufacture. If Honda of America, for one, doesn't hear of a paint issue, it'll continue using the same set of paint vendors and manufacturing settings.
Paint problems are one of those that mostly surface after the car is in the owner's hands, so a dealer lot perspective can't be relied upon here. And trivializing, if not denying, Honda problems can only do more harm than good all the way around.
I guess the forum regulars kind of expected this kind of post from me ;-)
When I first bought my Accord (EX-L, 4cly, MT) I had the same concerns. I was typically getting about 10 mpg below what the sticker indicated. Many people replied, indicating that they did not have the same problem. Many people indicated that they DID, but that it went away after the so-called "break-in period". So I decided I wouldn't worry about it, and sure enough, my mileage has steadily improved over time. I have about 12k miles on my Accord, and am now consistently getting about 28 city and 32 highway (I happen to believe that because of various gasoline additives, environmental issues, etc. and the archaic way that the mpg is estimated for new vehicles, that most people will not get or exceed the estimated sticker mpg). But I am now getting close to the estimated mpg, and I love my car. I honestly wouldn't worry too much about it for now. I would be willing to bet that your mileage will improve over time.
The steering wheel control buttons on my '04 Accord EXL do not illuminate when the headlights are on. The buttons look like they should light up, like the rest of the controls in the car...but they haven't done this since I got the car a month ago. The dealer says they aren't supposed to light up...but I don't believe this. Could someone shed some light on this for me?
About a month ago, I purchased a Rodie2 XM Radio, due to the fact it was easy to install using a FM Synthinizing Radio Station ( e.g. 88.1, 88.5 etc.).
I thought it would work fine, but the sound quality is very bad.
After reading the instruction manual of the XM Radio, it explained that FM Synthinizing results in the lowest sound quality.
I am aware that XM is now an option in the 2004 Accords.
I would like to know if anyone, could provide some guidance in how to install the XM device I purchased, directly into my car radio.
Could some one please provide steps, device names etc.
I have already contacted my local dealer, but they are unable to install such a device. They will not provide any direction either. I hope you understand what i.m trying to explain.
Same problems with my 2004 Accord EX since first 50 miles. Rattling in glove compartment, passenger door, compartment under radio, cd player, rear pillars, instrument panel. Creaking of suspension, seats, driver window. Loose door wiring guide, cracked glove compartment guides, deformed door weather strip, loose door threshold panel because of missing clips. Static on many FM stations. Fallen off rubber bumpers on glove compartment and rear center pass-through. Ticking sound on driver window that dealer lubricates window for temporary fix. Whirling noise from engine. 26 mpg for 95% freeway at 65mph. Last Honda my family or I will buy.
You wrote: >>(I happen to believe that because of various gasoline additives, environmental issues, etc. and the archaic way that the mpg is estimated for new vehicles, that most people will not get or exceed the estimated sticker mpg). <<
I must have the exact right mix of everything. Over the last four cars spanning 14 years of technology ('87 VW Golf, '92 Mazda Protege, '97 Honda Accord, and '03 VW Passat - all purchased new), we consistently achieve the city EPA rating doing suburban driving and usually exceed the highway rating by about 2 mpg on any Interstate trip over 30 minutes long (I usually run at about an indicated 72 mph). Gentle acceleration and anticipating traffic lights can, in our case, make about a 10% difference in our local mileage.
I'm obsessive about record-keeping and honestly can say I haven't seen much increase in mileage through the break-in period.
I bought a new Honda EX with a stick. The mileage is supposed to be 26-34 mpg. I got 18 mpg the first few tanks in a mixture of city and highway driving. Now about 5 tanks later (I just broke 3000 miles.) I get about 24-25 mpg. I'm disappointed too although the numbers are higher. I'm looking forward to trying a driving trip to see how it does.
I had a problem with the sattelite radio draining the battery. I think that problem is repaired. Rosanne
Sattelite radio draining battery caught my attention. My 04exv6 is occasionally hard to start. How did you figure out the XM was draining the battery? I have it on all the time.
"I wondered. Can I get a replacement steering wheel with the light-up buttons on my 2003 EX Accord?"
Of course you can - anything is possible. Will the related cost of the parts and labor (including modifying the stock wiring harness) be worthwhile? Only you can answer that but I suspect not.
Please be advised!!!! Honda just issued a recall on 2005 Accords, stating that the driver side airbag needs to be replaced. I called Honda of America and was told to wait for the letter by the mail and take it to my dealer for replacement of the airbag. It is important to call the Honda, they check your VIN number and see if your car falls within the range of defective airbags!!!!!!!!
I have 03 Accord with V-6 engine, and it has the pinging problem. Your information is very useful for me to deal with the local dealer, I called them today and mentioned the bulletin you provided, they finally admitted there was pining problem for this type of engine.
I have another problem, I noticed last winter, and the engine cold and I started driving the car, the transmission is a bit slow to shift. I aslo asked the dealer about this, they claimed the engine needs properly "warm-up" in order to let the transmission shift smoothly. Do you know if there is any other bulletin on this problem? One thing I have to say that the new Honda transmission is much better than the older design, I almost do not notice it shifts at all.
The Acura TSX wheel should be interchangeable with the Accord's. Retrofitting a factory wheel with lights could be unwieldy if not expensive. There's a TSX wheel now on eBay:
My wife has an 04 EX-V6 with 16k on it. Her commute is a mix of city/highway averaging 26 mpg. On our last trip loaded car to Florida from Virginia round trip we got 33 mpg at 75 mph. This is above the advertised 30mpg highway. It seems the more miles we put on it, the better the gas milage is.
I'm happy to hear that the information was helpful. It's unfortunate that some service reps aren't willing to be forthcoming about these TSBs without the owner having to arm himself or herself beforehand.
I believe the information about slightly slower shifting when the engine is cold is accurate. Both my 2000 and 2003 Accords have done that... I believe it's because the transmission shifts at higher RPMs while the engine is cold. I don't think you have anything to be concerned about in this case.
I agree completely about the improvements in the new transmission design... it's dramatically smoother than the previous generation.
For the record, the airbag itself isn't defective. A tear may occur on deployment because of contact between the airbag and the cover. So, as shown below, they won't be replacing the airbag, but will be installing a shield to prevent the contact between the airbag and cover from causing the airbag to tear.
Remedy: DEALERS WILL INSTALL A PROTECTIVE FABRIC FLAP BETWEEN THE AIR BAG MODULE COVER AND THE INNER MODULE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON DECEMBER 6, 2004. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009.
Pages 18 and 19 of your aftermarket XM Roady2 User Guide state the following:
Direct Connect For vehicles with radio head-units equipped with auxiliary audio inputs, connecting the audio directly to the auxiliary inputs of the head-unit (in a limited number of vehicles and aftermarket head units these inputs are located on the dash) provides maximum audio quality.
Cassette Adaptor For vehicles with a built-in cassette player, using the cassette adaptor for audio is the most popular solution. Due to its superior audio quality, this configuration is recommended over the wireless or wired FM modulator configurations for vehicles equipped with a cassette player.
FM Modulator For a more professional-looking installation, or if the wireless FM modulator does not provide satisfactory performance in your vehicle, an additional installation kit that will connect Roady2 and internal FM modulator directly to your vehicle radio’s antenna jack can be purchased. See www.delphi.com or your retailer for details.
Wireless FM Modulator Many late model cars do not come with built-in cassette players. For these cars, Roady2 includes an integrated wireless FM modulator that rebroadcasts the XM audio signal wirelessly to the vehicle’s FM radio. This FM modulator is automatically turned on whenever the cassette adaptor (or other audio jack) is unplugged from the side of the Roady2. One of 12 different frequencies can be selected, as described on page 12. In order to ensure optimum performance, the signal is broadcast to your car’s FM radio from both inside the Roady2, and from the included XM antenna.
You will probably have to dig under the dashboard to find your OEM radio's antenna jack and follow the above instructions (unless you can check with your Honda dealer's service department to see if the OEM radio has an auxilliary input jack) to which you can make a direct connection.
Can an Accord V-6 6 speed tow a motorcycle on a trailer? If so what kind of hitch? I realize this is not a towing vehicle, however can it be done? If it can tow, what is the max weight? Thank you for any help.
I have an 03 accord that the back seat gets wet every time it rains. The first time we took it to the service dept., they accused us of driving through high water. We have only driven in heavy rain conditions. No high water. We are taking it in for second time. What was the outcome on your 03 Honda? We could use any help you can give.
I'd suggest that you attempt to troubleshoot this issue yourself. Driving through high water can wet the rear carpet but you said that the rear seat itself is getting wet indicating a leak from above.
Place (or tape) dry paper towels around the inside perimeter of the doors, windows and trunk. Spray your car with a garden hose and you should quickly discover what area the leak is coming from. Armed with the knowledge that your car is defintely leaking where it shouldn't, I can't imagine the dealer and/or Honda refusing to repair the car under warranty.
On the other hand, if you can't duplicate the leak under those test conditions, then there's not a lot you can expect Honda to do.
I own a 2000 accord V6 which has 42,000 miles. The original tires which are still on the car are Michelin Energy MXV 4 Plus. Despite being rotated according to recommendations and maintaining proper tire pressure, the tires are already showing extensive tread wear. A Discount Tire salesmen recommended replacing the tires with the exact same tire. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
You can replace your Michelin tires with Kumho or Yokohoma tires at Tires Only near you. It will be much cheaper and quality is almost same. You can save about 50 - 70% of your hard-earned money.
I need some advice. I am in the USAF and am stationed in Japan. I brought my Accord over with me in July 04. The car has 6K miles. I used Mobil 1 0w-20 and AGIP 5w-20 fully sythentic oil for the first two oil changes. I owned the car over a year now. Anyhow, one evening about a month ago, I got in my car to head home from work and when I pulled out of the parking lot, I heard what sounded like knocking or pinging on acceleration! I stopped the car and let it idle and nothing...no knock or ping. I started accelerating again and there it was. When I got home, I put it in park and revved the engine and it sounded like a bunch of marbles in a tin can. It's been knocking and pinging ever since. Here's some background on my driving habits here in Japan: I rarely get over 60KPH (around 40MPH). All short trips of less than 5 miles. 93 Octane is the only grade available on base. Things I've tried to make the knock/ping go away: Tried Shell 100 Octane gas. Switched to Mobil 1 5w-30 oil. Disconnected battery overnight in the hopes of resetting the PCM/ECU. Put STP super fuel injector cleaner in fuel tank. Nothing has helped. There are no check engine lights or anything. I am not warranted in Japan because the vehicle was bought in the USA. What can I do? Oh, by the way, I can't hear the knock/ping in the cabin of the car if all windows are rolled up...only when the windows are down.
Given that you're working on your own, if it were me, I'd buy a V-6 supplement ($40) for the factory service manual ($70 but the V6 isn't covered) and eliminate some of the guessing.
The obvious and easy first step would be to verify that the check engine light self-tests okay at start-up. If it's not there at start-up, then it can't illuminate when there's an engine problem.
Then, I'd get the car up on jack stands and get under it to hear the problem up close and personal. For example, an exhaust leak can sound like an engine knock and you'd want to be 100% sure of the problem you're chasing after before going any further. Strange thing though if the engine is knocking but the computer isn't retarding the ignition timing to compensate. What about arcing plug wires (look in the dark) or a vacuum leak throwing off the computer?
Without a manual, I'd then be pulling the spark plugs one at a time to see if any cylinder had an abnormal plug reading. If they all looked the same, then I'd be looking at the knock sensor. Unfortunately, without a service manual you'll be hard-pressed to figure out if your sensor is bad or not.
Better hope that somebody smarter than me pipes in! Thanks for your service in the armed forces.
Hello, I bought a 2004 accord in march and have put up about 8000miles on it. recently I went for daylong trip of about 600miles and from then on, "MAINT REQD" sign blinks on when I put in the key. It goes away once car is in Drive gear. I havent got my first service done yet as manual says it to be done at 10K miles..Is MAINT REQD sign for the service? Has anyone seen this or any idea on what problem could be? Thanks a bunch..
Turn on the car ignition key (but do not start engine). Press and hold the trip odometer handle until the "MAINT REQD" disappears. It usually takes about 10 seconds to 1 minutes or a little more. Please let me know if you can get rid of that "MAINT REQD" warning successfully.
Honda wants us to bring the car back for service after a certain miles even though they "guarantees" the car can run for 110K miles before the first major tune up. Good luck.
Comments
Bring your car to the nearest dealer immediately if it is under 36,000 miles/ less than 3 years. The dealer probably uses some special materials to seal off those parts under the dash. It happened to my son's Accord V6 EX coupe too. It is still under Honda's warranty. They said "it is mechanical problem".
But you may want to mention it anyway... at least there's a precedent for a "no-reverse" condition, so perhaps you can use that to persuade them to take action.
Service Bulletin 03-042
Product Update: No-Reverse Condition
(Supersedes 03-042, dated October 7, 2003)
BACKGROUND
If a vehicle is stuck in snow and the transmission is shifted several times between a forward drive gear and reverse (at wheel speeds above 12 mph), a no-reverse condition can develop.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2003 Accord L4 A/T 2-Door:
From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001
thru 1HGCM7...3A023877
2003 Accord L4 A/T 4-Door:
From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001
thru 1HGCM5...3A080789
From VIN 3HGCM5...3G700001
thru 3HGCM5...3G705659
From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001
thru JHMCM5...3C077295
Not all vehicles within the VIN ranges are affected by this product update. Before beginning work on a vehicle, verify its eligibility by checking at least one of these items:
• The customer has a notification letter.
• The vehicle is shown on your campaign
responsibility report.
• The vehicle is shown as eligible on an i N VIN status inquiry.
You mention that you haven't read the pump volume when you fill up--you must try to be accurate.
Fill the tank, drive until near empty, divide the exact miles you drove since filling by the number of gallons it takes to refill the tank. That will give you the average mileage for the amount of fuel you consumed.
Please don't try to estimate the gas you used by looking at the gauge--that might be the problem........Richard
I have also had two other new Hondas before the 04' and never had a problem, or I would not have bought again.
At any rate, it doesn't matter whether you've heard of a problem or not.
My bet is something wrong with the primer before painting since the top paint is fine in the beginning, but yellows over the areas after time.
Try to check by looking at the gas pump "gallons pumped". In many cars, the gauge reads empty when the tank is far from it (perhaps the mfr thinks we are protected that way - I don't). On my Subaru, if I used the gauge to assess "empty", my calculated mileage would drop by 40%! It reads very low, very early.
If you still have a problem, you'll at least have evidence.
Good luck. Tim
I would start by looking for a vacuum leak, such as a vacuum line which came loose from its fitting.
I don't doubt the poster has a paint problem. Since it affect both of their cars I strongly suspect "something" has happened. It's possible it's a factory problem but I doubt it.
I was even thinking that something could have happened in transportation or in a storage yard although th cars come covered with sheets of plastic to try and prevent this.
Sorry for sharing my opinion...
First off we hear a rattle in the drivers door. Carmax has taken the door apart and insulated it but we still hear the rattle is there any way to fix this or do we just need to turn up the radio?
Secondly and most disturbing when you first start the car and begin driving it makes a very strange noise when you turn. It is almost like water moving from one side to the other under the hood. Almost like all the fluids in the engine are moving about in there. I don't mind the noise as long as I know the car does not have any problems.
And finally the brakes squeak. Carmax replaced them but they still squeak. I wonder if that is because they didn't use Honda brakes or if they did and the Honda brakes just squeal.
Carmax seems very happy to try and fix these issues. I don't really want to go to Honda as the warranty is no longer on the vehicle and Carmax will work with us on it. But I am afraid since they don't work exclusively on Honda's they may never get these issues addressed.
Thanks!
Manufacturers, through the VIN, can correlate production batch quality with material and process specifications at the time of manufacture. If Honda of America, for one, doesn't hear of a paint issue, it'll continue using the same set of paint vendors and manufacturing settings.
Paint problems are one of those that mostly surface after the car is in the owner's hands, so a dealer lot perspective can't be relied upon here. And trivializing, if not denying, Honda problems can only do more harm than good all the way around.
I guess the forum regulars kind of expected this kind of post from me ;-)
I hope someone can help me on this.
About a month ago, I purchased a Rodie2 XM Radio, due to the fact it was easy to install using a FM Synthinizing Radio Station ( e.g. 88.1, 88.5 etc.).
I thought it would work fine, but the sound quality is very bad.
After reading the instruction manual of the XM Radio, it explained that FM Synthinizing results in the lowest sound quality.
I am aware that XM is now an option in the 2004 Accords.
I would like to know if anyone, could provide some guidance in how to install the XM device I purchased, directly into my car radio.
Could some one please provide steps, device names etc.
I have already contacted my local dealer, but they are unable to install such a device. They will not provide any direction either.
I hope you understand what i.m trying to explain.
appreciated.
Regards,
Rangerfan2
>>(I happen to believe that because of various gasoline additives, environmental issues, etc. and the archaic way that the mpg is estimated for new vehicles, that most people will not get or exceed the estimated sticker mpg). <<
I must have the exact right mix of everything. Over the last four cars spanning 14 years of technology ('87 VW Golf, '92 Mazda Protege, '97 Honda Accord, and '03 VW Passat - all purchased new), we consistently achieve the city EPA rating doing suburban driving and usually exceed the highway rating by about 2 mpg on any Interstate trip over 30 minutes long (I usually run at about an indicated 72 mph). Gentle acceleration and anticipating traffic lights can, in our case, make about a 10% difference in our local mileage.
I'm obsessive about record-keeping and honestly can say I haven't seen much increase in mileage through the break-in period.
I had a problem with the sattelite radio draining the battery. I think that problem is repaired.
Rosanne
Of course you can - anything is possible. Will the related cost of the parts and labor (including modifying the stock wiring harness) be worthwhile? Only you can answer that but I suspect not.
Honda just issued a recall on 2005 Accords, stating that the driver side airbag needs to be replaced. I called Honda of America and was told to wait for the letter by the mail and take it to my dealer for replacement of the airbag. It is important to call the Honda, they check your VIN number and see if your car falls within the range of defective airbags!!!!!!!!
I have 03 Accord with V-6 engine, and it has the pinging problem. Your information is very useful for me to deal with the local dealer, I called them today and mentioned the bulletin you provided, they finally admitted there was pining problem for this type of engine.
I have another problem, I noticed last winter, and the engine cold and I started driving the car, the transmission is a bit slow to shift. I aslo asked the dealer about this, they claimed the engine needs properly "warm-up" in order to let the transmission shift smoothly. Do you know if there is any other bulletin on this problem? One thing I have to say that the new Honda transmission is much better than the older design, I almost do not notice it shifts at all.
How bad does a person need those lights anyway? I would think after using those buttons a few times it would be a natural thing?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1- &item=7936838635&category=33704&sspagename=WDVW
26 mpg. On our last trip loaded car to Florida from Virginia round trip we got 33 mpg at 75 mph. This is above the advertised 30mpg highway. It seems the more miles we put on it, the better the gas milage is.
I believe the information about slightly slower shifting when the engine is cold is accurate. Both my 2000 and 2003 Accords have done that... I believe it's because the transmission shifts at higher RPMs while the engine is cold. I don't think you have anything to be concerned about in this case.
I agree completely about the improvements in the new transmission design... it's dramatically smoother than the previous generation.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSTALL A PROTECTIVE FABRIC FLAP BETWEEN THE AIR BAG MODULE COVER AND THE INNER MODULE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON DECEMBER 6, 2004. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009.
Pages 18 and 19 of your aftermarket XM Roady2 User Guide state the following:
Direct Connect
For vehicles with radio head-units equipped with auxiliary audio inputs, connecting the audio directly to the auxiliary inputs of the head-unit (in a limited number of vehicles and aftermarket head units these inputs are located on the dash) provides maximum audio quality.
Cassette Adaptor
For vehicles with a built-in cassette player, using the cassette adaptor for audio is the most popular solution. Due to its superior audio quality, this configuration is recommended over the wireless or wired FM modulator configurations for vehicles equipped with a cassette player.
FM Modulator
For a more professional-looking installation, or if the wireless FM modulator does not provide satisfactory performance in your vehicle, an additional installation kit that will connect Roady2 and internal FM modulator directly to your vehicle radio’s antenna jack can be purchased. See www.delphi.com or your retailer for details.
Wireless FM Modulator
Many late model cars do not come with built-in cassette players. For these cars, Roady2 includes an integrated wireless FM modulator that rebroadcasts the XM audio signal wirelessly to the vehicle’s FM radio. This FM modulator is automatically turned on whenever the cassette adaptor (or other audio jack) is unplugged from the side of the Roady2. One of 12 different frequencies can be selected, as described on page 12. In order to ensure optimum performance, the signal is broadcast to your car’s FM radio from both inside the Roady2, and from the included XM antenna.
You will probably have to dig under the dashboard to find your OEM radio's antenna jack and follow the above instructions (unless you can check with your Honda dealer's service department to see if the OEM radio has an auxilliary input jack) to which you can make a direct connection.
Place (or tape) dry paper towels around the inside perimeter of the doors, windows and trunk. Spray your car with a garden hose and you should quickly discover what area the leak is coming from. Armed with the knowledge that your car is defintely leaking where it shouldn't, I can't imagine the dealer and/or Honda refusing to repair the car under warranty.
On the other hand, if you can't duplicate the leak under those test conditions, then there's not a lot you can expect Honda to do.
Thanks in advance for any advice ya'll can give!
The obvious and easy first step would be to verify that the check engine light self-tests okay at start-up. If it's not there at start-up, then it can't illuminate when there's an engine problem.
Then, I'd get the car up on jack stands and get under it to hear the problem up close and personal. For example, an exhaust leak can sound like an engine knock and you'd want to be 100% sure of the problem you're chasing after before going any further. Strange thing though if the engine is knocking but the computer isn't retarding the ignition timing to compensate. What about arcing plug wires (look in the dark) or a vacuum leak throwing off the computer?
Without a manual, I'd then be pulling the spark plugs one at a time to see if any cylinder had an abnormal plug reading. If they all looked the same, then I'd be looking at the knock sensor. Unfortunately, without a service manual you'll be hard-pressed to figure out if your sensor is bad or not.
Better hope that somebody smarter than me pipes in! Thanks for your service in the armed forces.
Rangrfn 2
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&- q=2005+honda+accord+recall
I havent got my first service done yet as manual says it to be done at 10K miles..Is MAINT REQD sign for the service?
Has anyone seen this or any idea on what problem could be?
Thanks a bunch..
Turn on the car ignition key (but do not start engine). Press and hold the trip odometer handle until the "MAINT REQD" disappears. It usually takes about 10 seconds to 1 minutes or a little more. Please let me know if you can get rid of that "MAINT REQD" warning successfully.
Honda wants us to bring the car back for service after a certain miles even though they "guarantees" the car can run for 110K miles before the first major tune up. Good luck.