Eventually your "MAINT REQ" warning light in your '04 Honda will stay steady. At that time you do whatever I showed you. It is no harm. Do not panic. Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to you and yours.
Thanks for the same point of view as me. Paint problems might not seem like much to someone with bigger problems, but this is not just a little nick or bubble here and there. It is so unusual, and something that gets more apparent and increases in number as time goes on.. At least it did with the 04'. I have an appointment to meet with the district rep -- she also cannot believe it is on the 05' -- she is the one who put me into mediation dept. who decided to replace the first one. They knew this was something serious or they would not have replaced. At this point, I think it is more serious than they know, for it to have happened again to a different year car. I suspect this time they would/should investigate to find out what the problem is.
Sorry, haven't been on line for a few days. Honda Corporate looked at and replaced the 04'. I have an appointment coming up for them to look at the 05' within the next month when they are at the dealership I bought from. Will be curious to see what they have to say.
If after backing up then moving forward there's a "crunching" noise (not the same as the ABS/TCS self-check) from the car's front end , the engine mount is probably broken. Just had my 03 coupe V6 repaired under warranty for this problem.
Welcome to the world of recent model decontented quality decontrolled Hondas. I had a '91 Accord EX that was perfect from start to finish.
However, I now have a 2004 EX-V6 6 spd. coupe with lots of minor "quality chatter" as I've come to call it. When it rains, the rubber molding in the doors gets wet and squeaks like two wetsuits rubbing against each other. I had an airbag canister shield for the side airbag in the rear driver's post (C-Pillar) that was rattling against the cannister until they finally traced it. I can hear the cable for the passenger door lock mechanism rattling (probably out of its guide) and I have a windshield that crackles like ice dropped in a hot bath (this, despite having been re-sealed by the dealer once already).
Most annoying of all, is the fact that I have about 1" of freeplay in my stickshift, even when the car is in gear. I finally took it apart myself (after the dealer said he couldn't fix it) only to learn that Honda had cheaped out on the linkage. What used to be adjustable rods and bolts connecting the shifter to the equipment below is now all done with non-adjustable cables. So, if it sucks, you just have to get used to it.
Not what I expected from a performance automobile that I paid nearly $24,000 for. On the other, hand, the engine is sweeeeeeeet, the XM radio is fun, and I still believe that, properly maintained, the car will probably go 150k miles or more so, for a guy like me who drives 30K a year, its all still worth it.
When I reported the rattling noise around windshield area of my son's EX V6 2003 the guy at the local Honda dealer said "It is only a "mechanical problem". But they fixed that for me with no charge as it had less than 36K miles/ 3 years on it.
I inquired about the steering wheel lights for cosmetic reasons mainly. It has seemed like something that my '03 should have from the beginning. You're right about using the buttons over time and knowing where the controls are. The lights are obviously not important enough to me. But, if it didn't cost much (under $200) I think it would be a nice touch and I would probably get the new wheel.
I agree. $200 or less for a lighted wheel or some kit that would make it possible would greatly interest me..if Honda is listening. Actually about the same for heated side mirrors!
Hi, I have an 03 black Honda coupe, bought it new. the paint on the fenders and hood is cracking and has pock marks all over the hood. District manager is only willing to pay $700 towards repainting fenders and hood. The paint shop I use wants $1100! Honda wants me to go to their shop, which I don't want to do because I had a bad experience with them when they cleaned my head liner. They eventually replaced that too. Please let me know what problems your having with the paint on your car. Thanks! hprice7301@aol.com
Depends what you are looking for! If you go onto www.tirerack.com you can look up tires and also comments from people who have bought tires and their opinions of them over a period of time. It's useful info. Based on these comments they come up with ratings of tires by class. I just bought their highest rated High Performance All Season tires, the B.F. Goodrich Traction T/A and so far I am very impressed with them. They are very good in rain and are rated highly in snow. Cornering is much improved also. Michelin makes good tires but they are very expensive and they are not always the best performers.
While I think Tirerack is a good source of information (referring to their reviews and tests), I'm not a big fan of the survey/opinion section.
While hunting for tires for our Accord, the reviews went something like this:
Review #1: Best tire I ever owned. Review #2: Worst tire I ever owned. Review #3: Great tire in the wet. Review #4: Terrible tire in the wet. Review #5: I'm getting wonderful treadlife out of these tires. Review #6: These tires wore out very quickly. Review #Ad nauseum - you get the idea.
My '04 EX-L gets about 22.6 mpg in city/suburban driving, and 33.2 mpg on the highway.
Average has been 26 to 27 mpg which I think is very good for a 3200 pound sedan with AT--especially considering the car's quick acceleration.....Richard
-Driver seat was moving back and fourth when stopping & Accelerating. (dealer replaced seat track)
-Front brakes wear out every 6-8k miles. I don't believe that this has to do with my driving but since the dealer says it does I don't even argue anymore. Note: My VW Jetta has 48k on factory brakes never been replaced.
-Stereo and HVAC control screen flickers and goes blank when going over bumps?? Also, has HORRIBLE "FM" reception.
-Driver window made clicking noises while going up and fell into door. (dealer replaced clips)
-Side impact airbags on the passenger side (curtain and seat) deployed after a rock flew up on the freeway and hit the undercarriage. (dealer says it hit the sensor and they won't warranty it) I told them it is a safety defect & they didn't seem to care. I paid my insurance deductible and they are pursuing it through Honda. Needless to say at this point I wasnt surprised that it happened and I really don't care as well as the car is leased and they technically own it anyway.
-Car leaks in the rain...headliner is stained and ruined in multiple areas. Probably due to the repairs with the airbag??
-SRS light stays lit continuously now...lol Returned it to the shop that fixed the airbags and they said it is functioning fine and reset the light and then it comes back on 3 days later...again, I don't care anymore so I just let it stay lit.
-Engine (V6) starts then stalls on a cold morning...dealer said it was recalled ...performed the recall and it still does it....I just restart it several times until it runs again.
-Transmission recall performed. (No idea what this was about)
Overall, this happens to be the worst car I have ever owned and that includes a 1999 Daewoo Leganza. I don't know if I purchased it too soon as I had the 2nd "new body style" Accord V6 in Las Vegas. I am not a happy camper and do not recommend this vehicle to anyone. Thank goodness the car has good resale value (ha ha ha) as I paid off the lease a year early and am going to sell it to Carmax and take the diffrence to put on an XC90.
I recently bought a 2005 Accord. The only problem so far has been a vibration and shimmy at freeway speeds. I took it in and the dealer balanced the Michelin tires and checked alignment. Problem seems solved. I also had the airbag recall fix done. I was disappointed that this problem occurred, but the dealer was good about fixing it.
You need to find a different Honda dealer to service your vehicle. You might have some problems turning this vehicle into the lease company with these problems! I have a 2003 4 cylinder automatic Accord, with a sun roof & 40,000 miles on the clock, and I do not have any of these problems. Get this vehicle looked at by a different dealer,(one that does not employ the "Brain Dead")! I would also get the Honda Corporation invloved with this issue!
I totally understand your frustration. I had the same year/model and sold it to Carmax after a year of recurring brake problems.
I would, however, caution you against purchasing an XC90 as a replacement. Consumer Reports rates its reliability as "poor" and does not recommend it.
You may feel jaded about CR's ratings, since it gives the Honda such good marks and you had such a bad experience. Overall, though, I think we may have simply had the bad luck to get the few poor representatives of what is in general a very good car.
I'd be concerned that with the XC90 you're getting a vehicle that is considered unreliable across the board, and will be considerably more expensive to maintain than the Accord.
Are you considering any other makes/models? I would urge you to cast a wider net, so you don't end up with another problematic vehicle.
Reoccurring brake problems have three likely sources; bad rotors, bad pads, or sticking calipers. Given that first-year depreciation of a new car is many thousands of dollars, I wouldn't give up on a car until I had replaced all the suspect components.
Granted, a manufacturer will only provide OEM parts under warranty and the new parts may be as bad as the old. However, I had problems with the brakes on my last car until I bought my own aftermarket rotors, pads and, ultimately, calipers. I never had another problem after that and the cost was only a tenth that of owning a new car for a year.
In the reports I've read of early brake problems (and not just on Hondas), I've never heard anyone say their calipers were replaced (always the pads, rotors or both). It seems to me that tight calipers could easily explain some of these problems. However, a tight caliper is also extremely easy to spot by spinning a wheel and checking drag so you'd think mechanics would be diagnosing that issue correctly. Another issue is that some designs are sensitive to proper lug nut torque – uneven or excessive torque can warp some rotors too.
Brake problems shouldn’t be an unsolvable mystery unless the car’s brake design is just bad from the start and then everyone would be having massive problems.
Well where should I start I do love this car but having some problems. Paint seems to be bubbling on both door jams and at welding of door plus rust in those places and in trunk next to rubber stopper. Plus the paint looks dull and I Keep it clean and waxed and there is rust on hood and corner panel saw one bubble and it the shortly after I guess popped and began to rust now I found 3 other spots. When I got it new it had a hard time going into first and grinded in to reverse they fixed it in like a minute and sent me on my way. Now at 31000 miles cars grinds into second when merging and reverse plus bumps sometimes in to 2 and reverse. It leaks somewhere in to my driver side passenger floor under mat is soaked. Just want to know if any will be covered under warranty and if there are any other things I should inspect. Please Help Justin
From what your describing, if you only get it when you are accelerating it sure sounds like either: 1. Low octane... but 93 should be more then enough since I assume it only needs 87. Maybe you got a bad tank of gas but it sounds like you went through a tank of gas already. 2. Your timing is off and/or is not advancing when you accelerate. The older cars use to have a vacuum advance, but now it's probably just computer controlled.
I would have the timing checked by the dealer. Putting different oil in should have nothing to do with it IMO. Good Luck
Does anyone have a solution as to how to handle this problem. Both of my automobles show evidence of rats nibbling at something in the engine compartments of my 99 Accord and 2001 Pathfinder. Both vehicles are garaged. This morning there was little pieces of foam spread under the Pathfinder engine area. I opened up the hood on the Accord, and there was rat droppings all over the engine. Both vehicles are running okay so far, but due to the cold weather, I'm afraid the rats will be back and could cause damage. Any advice would be appreciated.
I had quite big size of paint off from right front fender of my 2003 black accord(assembled in Mexico)sedan two months ago. I had to give my car to the nearby Honda dealer and let them choose where they wanted because they could find a body shop cheaper than I wanted to go, but I hold Honda for responsibility if any thing goes wrong.
I own a new V6 Accord. Depending on which Honda dealership I call, I get a different answer on when I should make the initial oil change (some say at 3,750 miles, others at 7,500 miles).
Some dealers indicate the car has “break-in” oil installed at the factory. Those dealers recommend a first oil change at 7,500 miles. The “break in” oil is reported by those dealers to have different additives than common replacement oil. The different additives in the “break in” oil are reported to be beneficial to the new engine. However, I could not find any reference in the vehicle user manual that came with the car about “break-in” oil installed at the factory. The user manual only makes recommendations regarding ongoing oil change frequency based on severe or normal driving conditions.
At what mileage should I make the initial oil change in my new car? I would prefer a response from a qualified Honda service technician, if possible. Thank you.
That's an interesting approach. Rodents and critters are no joke when they're around our cars. Friends and I got stranded once on a busy autobahn because rodents ate through fluid lines inside the engine compartment, blowing the engine.
I need help. I own a 1998 V4 Honda Accord LX. I just have the timing belt and water pump changed (115K) not by the dealer. Previous change done at 60K. Problem is that every time I accelerate the engine noise is noticeably louder than before, accompanied with vibrations that are felt through the gas pedal, which is stiffer as well. I feel as if the car has lost some of its previous power. Is the timing belt and water pump change related to this condition? HELP!
I have changed timing belt and water pump many times by my own mechanic with no problems. May be your mechanic did something wrong when he was changing the timing belt. Therefore, having a competent mechanic to fix your car is important.
A friend has an '04 Accord EX coupe. He mentioned starting to hear some creaking inside, and I told him it was a major issue. He has done lots of research since, and has had it to the dealer once who of course indicated it was the first one they had heard of doing this. yeah, right.... He would like to compile a list of known fixes to present to the dealer. Is there any chance of gathering data related to the creaking issues? As an aside, I just purchased an '05 Mazda Tribute, which will necessitate selling my 99 Accord LX sedan. That thing has been bulletproof, and not a creak to be heard. Japanese-built, though not sure if that is the reason it has been so good. If I did not have so many vehicles, I would keep it.
To me, the big differences between the 4 and the 6 are below 2,000rpm. The 4 has adequate power but at low rpm it can't hide that it's a 4-cylinder. It's also not able to maintain speed up hills without downshifting like the V6 can. Be sure to test the 4-cylinder with the A/C on and see if the vibration and thrumming at low rpm bothers you in a near-luxury car.
Considering the large difference in horsepower, I'm impressed with how much torque the 4-cylinder seems to have around town. Above 2,000 rpm, the Honda K-series engines are impressively smooth. Don't expect a big increase in fuel efficiency over the V6 though.
I have a '03 V6 and my son-in-law has a '04 I4. We have both driven both vehicles and there are substantial differences not easily put into words. By all means,drive both of them preferably back to back before jumping in.
If the cam teeth were lined up wrong (common in timing belt changes), at best you'd have very rough idling and the car would be virtually undriveable. Since apparently this doesn't apply in your case, my best armchair diagnosis is an exhaust flange leak / cross member vibration caused by the technician loosening (and not fully retightening) those parts to gain access to do the job. Stiff gas pedal could be the pedal cable not properly re-installed (or pinched during the job) and now binding. That hard pedal is probably creating the impression of less power.
Looks like a 2-man job with the mop-up left to a trainee.
FS- Thanks! I appreciate your response. I have told my husband about the Canister Mold issue you mentioned. I think he will have Carmax check it out.
He recently complained about the pinging and I was able to find the info about the TSB on this board so when he has that repaired he will have them take a second look at the door.
If anyone else has anything to add I would appreciate it. I was a huge Honda fan until some issues with my 1998 Honda and I got mad at Honda. This is the first Honda I have had since then and I am dissapointed in the rattles. It was a sunroof rattle that drove me nuts in my 1998 EX V6 Coupe. Before that car I had a 1983 Accord, 1992 Accord and a 1997 Civic. My main concerns were with a dealership in GA that I delt with so I felt buying from Carmax and dealing with them would be a solution.
With respect to creaking in the Accord, the doors are insulated with 2 rubber weather strips: one on the body around the door opening, and one around the perimeter of the door itself.
Spray some WD-40 on those rubber parts which might be making a bit of noise if they rub when the body flexes slightly. It's worth a try......Richard
Thanks for the suggestion Richard. Not sure if that is where he is getting the bulk of it. My impression is that it is coming from interior panels. It has been a while since I have had a daily driver that did that sort of thing, and it can drive you nuts.
check out the rubber muffler mounts, I have been to our dealer 4 times and they can't find it. It is not a squeak but a deeper sound. Next visit we take the owner for a ride until we find the cause. I shook the muffler(v6) and it sounded similar. My other problem is the red paint that is either not properly cured or scratches because it is waterbased, never a red Honda again.
You and your son-in-law have driven the I4 and V6 Accords back to back and discussed the differences. Surely there are some comments or impressions you can share. Personally, I'd very much like to hear what a V6 owner has to say about driving the I4.
What's one thing you liked and one thing you didn't like about the I4 compared to your V6?
Id thought Id share my input on driving differences between the 4cyl and V6 accords. I have a 04 EXV6. I did drive both several times before I made a purchase for the V6. To me its about luxury and comfort. The 4cyl is slightly more nimble then the V6 in the handleing department. Thats one thing is has over the v6. But I enjoy being able to maintain speed up steep hills, being able to pass up hills or anywhere under any circumstance and drive easily with a car load of people. I dont like the feeling of going up a hill and a car telling me "this is all I got"..or having to get a running start up a hill. Also during acceleration I dont like to hear the loud roar of an engine during spirited driving. The v6 allows quieter acceleration under all conditions. Also I dont like a car where the air conditioning takes alot away from car. The accords V6 takes care of all of my pet peeves. And the extra cost of fuel to get it is worth it to me. I will say the 4cyl accord is among the finest out there however. But as I drive about 50 miles a day up and down hills, stop and go traffic, and expressway/turnpike driving, I really enjoy and prefer a V6. If my commute was only 10/15 minutes and just locally..I may lean more torwards the 4cyl. I Just like always having available power handy. In the end the V6 is smoother, quieter and more refined..it makes driving effortless.
Leave the breakin oil for at least 5k or 5 months if you don't drive much. The additive is a molybdenum compound. Nothing special, most of the motor oils contain this compound in varying percentages.
My car was parked on the side of a street, and when I came back to pick up the car, I found it damaged due to a speeding driver that struck the rear quarter panel of the car when trying to aggressively merge onto another lane. The damage involved the suspension and rear bumper as well as bending the left rear alloy wheels. I am just wondering whether there will be a vast change in the "rigidity" and the handling of the car once it is repaired! My car, by the way, is a 2003 Accord EX-V6.
I was surprised how quick the I4 was and how little effort to cruise at 70 mph. Handling was a little different, but I have'nt had the I4 on back roads. Overall my V6 EX w/leather is smoother, quieter and more assured (if that makes sense) in almost every respect. The extra cost is well worth it for me as I commute 45 miles each way in a mix of hilly rural roads and interstate. The I4 just doesn't feel as if it would be a vehicle I would smile over each morning, even though it is certainly competent.
While it had no problem getting out of its own way, the lack of a way to lock the tranny in 5th drove me nuts. So we traded it for an 04 EX-L 5 speed. We cruise anywhere from 75-100 mph and have yet to run into a grade the I4 could not pull in 5th gear. I think the transmission programming in the auto is too aggressive in downshifting. I bet there are few situations where the V6 has THAT broad an advantage in any other area than smoothness at lower RPM's.
Comments
Eventually your "MAINT REQ" warning light in your '04 Honda will stay steady. At that time you do whatever I showed you. It is no harm. Do not panic. Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to you and yours.
dcap127, glad to be a 2nd voice.
However, I now have a 2004 EX-V6 6 spd. coupe with lots of minor "quality chatter" as I've come to call it. When it rains, the rubber molding in the doors gets wet and squeaks like two wetsuits rubbing against each other. I had an airbag canister shield for the side airbag in the rear driver's post (C-Pillar) that was rattling against the cannister until they finally traced it. I can hear the cable for the passenger door lock mechanism rattling (probably out of its guide) and I have a windshield that crackles like ice dropped in a hot bath (this, despite having been re-sealed by the dealer once already).
Most annoying of all, is the fact that I have about 1" of freeplay in my stickshift, even when the car is in gear. I finally took it apart myself (after the dealer said he couldn't fix it) only to learn that Honda had cheaped out on the linkage. What used to be adjustable rods and bolts connecting the shifter to the equipment below is now all done with non-adjustable cables. So, if it sucks, you just have to get used to it.
Not what I expected from a performance automobile that I paid nearly $24,000 for. On the other, hand, the engine is sweeeeeeeet, the XM radio is fun, and I still believe that, properly maintained, the car will probably go 150k miles or more so, for a guy like me who drives 30K a year, its all still worth it.
-FS
While hunting for tires for our Accord, the reviews went something like this:
Review #1: Best tire I ever owned.
Review #2: Worst tire I ever owned.
Review #3: Great tire in the wet.
Review #4: Terrible tire in the wet.
Review #5: I'm getting wonderful treadlife out of these tires.
Review #6: These tires wore out very quickly.
Review #Ad nauseum - you get the idea.
Average has been 26 to 27 mpg which I think is very good for a 3200 pound sedan with AT--especially considering the car's quick acceleration.....Richard
-Driver seat was moving back and fourth when stopping & Accelerating. (dealer replaced seat track)
-Front brakes wear out every 6-8k miles. I don't believe that this has to do with my driving but since the dealer says it does I don't even argue anymore. Note: My VW Jetta has 48k on factory brakes never been replaced.
-Stereo and HVAC control screen flickers and goes blank when going over bumps?? Also, has HORRIBLE "FM" reception.
-Driver window made clicking noises while going up and fell into door. (dealer replaced clips)
-Side impact airbags on the passenger side (curtain and seat) deployed after a rock flew up on the freeway and hit the undercarriage. (dealer says it hit the sensor and they won't warranty it) I told them it is a safety defect & they didn't seem to care. I paid my insurance deductible and they are pursuing it through Honda. Needless to say at this point I wasnt surprised that it happened and I really don't care as well as the car is leased and they technically own it anyway.
-Car leaks in the rain...headliner is stained and ruined in multiple areas. Probably due to the repairs with the airbag??
-SRS light stays lit continuously now...lol Returned it to the shop that fixed the airbags and they said it is functioning fine and reset the light and then it comes back on 3 days later...again, I don't care anymore so I just let it stay lit.
-Engine (V6) starts then stalls on a cold morning...dealer said it was recalled ...performed the recall and it still does it....I just restart it several times until it runs again.
-Transmission recall performed. (No idea what this was about)
Overall, this happens to be the worst car I have ever owned and that includes a 1999 Daewoo Leganza. I don't know if I purchased it too soon as I had the 2nd "new body style" Accord V6 in Las Vegas. I am not a happy camper and do not recommend this vehicle to anyone. Thank goodness the car has good resale value (ha ha ha) as I paid off the lease a year early and am going to sell it to Carmax and take the diffrence to put on an XC90.
I was disappointed that this problem occurred, but the dealer was good about fixing it.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I would, however, caution you against purchasing an XC90 as a replacement. Consumer Reports rates its reliability as "poor" and does not recommend it.
You may feel jaded about CR's ratings, since it gives the Honda such good marks and you had such a bad experience. Overall, though, I think we may have simply had the bad luck to get the few poor representatives of what is in general a very good car.
I'd be concerned that with the XC90 you're getting a vehicle that is considered unreliable across the board, and will be considerably more expensive to maintain than the Accord.
Are you considering any other makes/models? I would urge you to cast a wider net, so you don't end up with another problematic vehicle.
Granted, a manufacturer will only provide OEM parts under warranty and the new parts may be as bad as the old. However, I had problems with the brakes on my last car until I bought my own aftermarket rotors, pads and, ultimately, calipers. I never had another problem after that and the cost was only a tenth that of owning a new car for a year.
In the reports I've read of early brake problems (and not just on Hondas), I've never heard anyone say their calipers were replaced (always the pads, rotors or both). It seems to me that tight calipers could easily explain some of these problems. However, a tight caliper is also extremely easy to spot by spinning a wheel and checking drag so you'd think mechanics would be diagnosing that issue correctly. Another issue is that some designs are sensitive to proper lug nut torque – uneven or excessive torque can warp some rotors too.
Brake problems shouldn’t be an unsolvable mystery unless the car’s brake design is just bad from the start and then everyone would be having massive problems.
Please Help
Justin
1. Low octane... but 93 should be more then enough since I assume it only needs 87. Maybe you got a bad tank of gas but it sounds like you went through a tank of gas already.
2. Your timing is off and/or is not advancing when you accelerate. The older cars use to have a vacuum advance, but now it's probably just computer controlled.
I would have the timing checked by the dealer. Putting different oil in should have nothing to do with it IMO.
Good Luck
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Some dealers indicate the car has “break-in” oil installed at the factory. Those dealers recommend a first oil change at 7,500 miles. The “break in” oil is reported by those dealers to have different additives than common replacement oil. The different additives in the “break in” oil are reported to be beneficial to the new engine. However, I could not find any reference in the vehicle user manual that came with the car about “break-in” oil installed at the factory. The user manual only makes recommendations regarding ongoing oil change frequency based on severe or normal driving conditions.
At what mileage should I make the initial oil change in my new car? I would prefer a response from a qualified Honda service technician, if possible. Thank you.
http://www.critter-repellent.com/rat/getting-rid-of-rats.php
I miss my manual trans and want a navi. hopefully they have fixed some rattle problems in two years as well.
How big of a shock will going from the v-6 to the 4banger will this be?
Of course the V6 is faster than the 4, but under most driving situations the 4 will be more than you need for quick, safe acceleration.
Because this concerns you, test drive a 4 before you make any decision......Richard
www.ratzapper.com
it's incredible and works fast.
As an aside, I just purchased an '05 Mazda Tribute, which will necessitate selling my 99 Accord LX sedan. That thing has been bulletproof, and not a creak to be heard. Japanese-built, though not sure if that is the reason it has been so good. If I did not have so many vehicles, I would keep it.
Considering the large difference in horsepower, I'm impressed with how much torque the 4-cylinder seems to have around town. Above 2,000 rpm, the Honda K-series engines are impressively smooth. Don't expect a big increase in fuel efficiency over the V6 though.
Looks like a 2-man job with the mop-up left to a trainee.
Suggest going back to the shop with these ideas.
He recently complained about the pinging and I was able to find the info about the TSB on this board so when he has that repaired he will have them take a second look at the door.
If anyone else has anything to add I would appreciate it. I was a huge Honda fan until some issues with my 1998 Honda and I got mad at Honda. This is the first Honda I have had since then and I am dissapointed in the rattles. It was a sunroof rattle that drove me nuts in my 1998 EX V6 Coupe. Before that car I had a 1983 Accord, 1992 Accord and a 1997 Civic. My main concerns were with a dealership in GA that I delt with so I felt buying from Carmax and dealing with them would be a solution.
Spray some WD-40 on those rubber parts which might be making a bit of noise if they rub when the body flexes slightly. It's worth a try......Richard
What's one thing you liked and one thing you didn't like about the I4 compared to your V6?
My car was parked on the side of a street, and when I came back to pick up the car, I found it damaged due to a speeding driver that struck the rear quarter panel of the car when trying to aggressively merge onto another lane. The damage involved the suspension and rear bumper as well as bending the left rear alloy wheels. I am just wondering whether there will be a vast change in the "rigidity" and the handling of the car once it is repaired! My car, by the way, is a 2003 Accord EX-V6.
bszeto