<<<Car vibrates when in Drive and foot on brake, as brake released and RPMs go up and car starts to move, vibration goes away. When A/C and Rear Defroster on and steering wheel angled and car in Drive with foot on brake (such as traffic stops) vibration is extreme. >>>
My 89LXi does the same thing on a few occassions. I believe it happens when the weather is cold and the engine has not warmed up yet. Sometime the vibration was so bad I had to put the car in neutral.
<<<When A/C and Rear Defroster on and steering wheel angled and car in Drive with foot on brake (such as traffic stops) vibration is extreme. >>>
Also when you put the car in Reverse (backup lights are on) and foot on brake.
I am not a Honda expert. I think this is a problem with a 4-cyclinder engine. It cannot handle the loads (alternator, A/C compressor, P/S pump) put on. When the steering wheel is in an angle, the P/S pump works harder.
You won't see this vibration problem with the V6 engine. Just put the car into neutral if the (extreme) vibration bothers you so much. I don't think you will have any problem driving your car to 350K miles with all the maintenance you did. My friend has a 90'LX A/T. The car still runs great at 340K+ miles. He decided not to change the t-belt at 300K miles. If the belt breaks, it's the end of it.
I would assume from you explanation that the vibration DID NOT Exist when the vehilce was NEW! So, something had to change along the way. You state that the vibration occurs in Drive with your foot on the brake, and as the brake is released, and the car starts to move, the vibration goes away. QUESTION, ----Does this vehicle have a power brake unit? If so, you might have a vacuum leak, with the brake applied in the PB unit. The AC compressor puts an additional load on the engine, and there should be some type of sensor that tells the computer that the AC compressor is cycling. The Rear Window Defroster puts an electrical load on the engine. A battery problem and / or Alternator problem could cause a problem with the on board computer. I would check the following on this vehicle: 1st.) Vacuum Leaks with the brakes applied, ---- 2nd). The battery and the charging system, ---- 3rd.) The sensor that tells the on-board computer that the AC system in "on", ---- 4th.) The engine temperature sensor, and the incoming air temperature sensor. The computer needs to know the temperature of the engine and the incoming air, ---- 5th.) The Throttle Position Sensor. The computer needs to know the position of the throttle, especially at idle. If all else checks out "ok", it is possible that you might have a bad motor mount that is causing the engine to move in the frame.
I have driven a few 93 era Accords that do that. I do believe it's the engine mounts. I haven't seen it happen to manual transmissioned vehicles though.
53k out of the stock pads is pretty good. I replaced mine at 38K on my 2003 EX V6 Sedan. My rotors had warped and there was a shudder when braking. I replaced all rotors with Brembo blank rotors and ceramic brake pads. I like this setup because it stops better and dusts less.
So, now that you have gone through the decision making of a new car purchase...and you are living with that decision...are you happy with the choice you made?
I am finalizing my decision and recently, given the data available on a Toyota V6 issue with regards to acceleration hesitation (safety!), found myself flip flopping. While I was not all together pleased with the Camry SE/XLE interior, I've got a large family and appreciated the space the vehicle offered. My concern with the Accord was with regards to back seat space. Can three pre-teens fit back there comfortably? I've sat in the car but have not dragged my children in to do the same.
Also, are the rattling issues complained about with the Accord that annoying?
I have posted messages recently and in the past regarding my new Accord's rattles--namely steering column rattle, window seal rattles, and others. It seems the dealer, in conjunction with the Honda Tech Line and even the district regional service manager have run out of ideas and are basically telling me to live with it.
Has anyone had these rattles, specifically steering wheel column, and window seals (two front doors), and has anybody had a fix? The dealer replaced the horn assembly for the steering wheel rattle, which worked but only for one month. For the window seal rattles, they replaced the run channels but this worked only for one week. Lubing the window seals today didn't do a darn thing. I feel like I've got a ten year old car that I was tricked into buying new! I feel like a sucker!!!
What is interesting about the "rattle issue" is that is seems to be more prevalent with the V6 model, than with the 4 cylinder vehicle. Could the extra weight be the issue?
I have loved all of my Accords. This includes a 91 EX, 93 EX, 99 EX, 01 EX V6, 03 EX-L, 04 EX-L, and my current 04 EX-L. I don't regret buying any of them.
As far as the room goes. My 6'6 husband has sat in the back seat before next to my son (who is still in a car seat). It really depends on the height of your kids. Take them out and let them sit in both. With 3 kids you might want to consider a mini-van or a larger sedan such as the Altima/Maxima, Avalon, etc.
I have been "insane" with all my Honda motorcyles, Civic/ Accords (I4 and V6) in the last 40 years plus. All my Accords ran over 200K miles until I got tired of it and gave it to somebody. My current one is the Accord hybrid with Navi. system, 255HP, 232 lbs/ft, V6. I literally "fly" it everyday as riding on a witch's electronic broom. I am serious. "When one buys a Honda he/ she will never buy another make" (Anonymous quote).
I had a very similar rattle with my 05, sounds like it is coming from the VIN plate. Brought it into the dealer and they had to tighten some bolts holding a cowel/cover near the windshield wiper. That was last week, and they fixed the problem temporarily. However, it has returned and is very annoying. I am bringing it back next week to have them look at it again.
The dealer replaced our 03 EX-L's driver's window channel, also without success.
A "conscientious rattle-seeker" in one of the forums a while back found the solution. He discovered that the front window glass rattle was being caused by 2 metal parts of the window riser mechanism hitting. After he wrapped the parts with some adhesive material, the noise went away for good.
I don't see how you can say that 4 cylinder Accords vibrate alot just because they have a small engine. They don't vibrate at all when they are in top condition. Four-bangers do tend to give less of a smooth ride than larger engines but there are many ways to even the playing field. Motor mounts, harmonic balancers, and now even active noise dampening in the Honda VCM motors help to control noise and vibration isolation.In fact, many people have commented on how quiet my car is even though it's currently 15 years old. It sounds alot like one or more of your motor mounts is gone. Take it to a competent mechanic and he should be able to visually determine which mount needs to be replaced. My car vibrated excessively in reverse and shifts were somewhat more "violent". This is a classic case for a motor mount being out, especially the rear one. Considering the car had 140K on it, having the rear motor mount replaced to cure it didn't seem too bad a deal. Accords can be one of the smoothest vehicles on the road when they are running as they should, especially the '90-'93s.
Anyone who tells you brake load is 50/50 needs to have their brain serviced. Does that make any sense to you at all? Unless they are talking about the average load over time for a car that happens to be driven as much in reverse as it is in forward, they are smoking something. Obviously there is increased load on the front brakes. Honda decreased the size of the rear brake pads on their vehicles after a certain model year to make up for the difference. I imagine because they either wanted people to have to replace the rear ones more often than...uhh...almost never or because they decided to cut costs with smaller pads on the rears. I seem to remember someone complaining that their newer Accord's rears wore out much faster than their old Accord's did and the response was that Honda had reduced the size of the rear pads. It may have even been back in this forum's earlier days.
As for putting your car into neutral when people cross in front of you, how about just keeping your foot firmly on the brakes like everyone else does? If your can be stopped in a few hundred feet while going 60 then there's no way that your car can overcome your brakes at a dead stop. Don't believe me, try it sometime...you won't go anywhere.
PS - I'm pretty certain the comment about shutting your car off was sarcasm man.
Thanks, atlantabenny, but by any chance can you refer me to the exact post? I am having trouble finding it, and your explanation makes some sense, but if I had a bit more detail, perhaps I could explain it better to the dealer.
Exactly what is, or where is the "window riser mechanism", and where are these metal parts? Have you been able to have yours fixed as well? Has anyone else out there heard of this too? Thanks.
It's a tricky problem because the rattle is transmitted to, and not created at, the area of the noise. What transmits it is the window channel (hence, it being the first suspect) that runs around the whole window frame up to the area behind the front door speakers.
I'm probably mistaken in saying that it's the riser mechanism (motor and gear unit that regulates window opening); according to post 6704, it's the metal part of the window channel near the riser mechanism area that rubs against another metallic part.
The rubbing noise is carried by the window channel to the window glass. The fix is to put material between those 2 metal parts to eliminate the noise.
There was a post probably in another forum which included photos of the owner showing the repair, but I can't locate it.
The windshield noise is now gone and the following are the Tech Notes on the fix:
"Customer states, check for crackling/rattling noise from left front corner of the windshield... Metal Hitting at Shock Tower. Removed upper dash cover, instrument cluster assembly, Test Drove. Noise Still persisted. Pulled (A) pillar assembly, Left corner headliner, Test Drove. Noise still present. Reinstalled dash, cluster assembly and (A) pillar trim. Installed Chasis ear on inside of dash. No Noise present from inside of car. Installed Chasis Ear(s) on outside of vehicle, Heard noise at Shock Tower. Adjusted Body at shock tower, metal touching together, Test Drove with Service Manager. No Other Noise present."
I was talking about noise from engine or transmission when I am driving about 65-70 mph. FM radio always noisy in BAY AREA, California in any weather condition, especially 88.5.
I bout my car to dealership and they did drive test with me. They were agreeing about noises from radio and transmission but they told me it's by design. We drove another car and street noise was more then turbo noise. Technician was willing to change transmission and radio to eliminate to make me happy but they did once for somebody and it was much worse.
The Accord has a firm ride and even though the car is generally quiet, it does make road noise on some surfaces such as ribbed concrete. Other surfaces can be very quiet and all cars will make some tire noise. I suggest you accept that no car runs silently on all surfaces.
Your car should NOT be making any transmission noises at 65-70 MPH. In fact, there should be almost no mechanical noise from the car at all when driving at a steady 70-80 MPH.
Radio reception in the San Francisco area is not very good in my opinion except for the XM radio which I'm glad is standard in my '04 EX-L sedan. XM radio is very clear--no static or other noises (and no commercials, either!)....Richard
take a small square piece of rubber (not 2 thick) and put between window and where dash VIN is. noise should go away if it's similar to my '05 EX.
what bugs me is the annoying wind noise driving down the highway from both front doors. i don't get it. i might need to slightly move the door stricker further in to pull the door in a bit more. that might help.
i double checked that. i made sure both front windows were all the way up. i bought the car 2 months ago. it seems that the weather strip around the door is not making a tight seal.
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions, but sadly none have worked yet. (I'm still going to try the shock tower suggestion when I go back to dealer later this week).
When I bought the car a month ago, there was no rattle. Within 1 week a rattle started in the left hand corner of the dash near the windshield when driving over rough roads. I took it in, dealer took the molding over the A-pillar off, put it back on and the noise went away. One week later the noise came back stronger. I took it back in, dealer heard noise. Took molding off, put it back on, and ordered a new molding (coming later this week). Noise still there though - so not sure what the problem is (didn't temporarily go away again).
I've tried stuffing cardboard, rubber, sponges anything between the dash and the windshield, the dash and the a-pillar, the a-pillar and the windshield...nothing has worked.
I've had the car a month and the frustration is setting in.
I have the same car with about 55k on the original pads. I had the brakes checked out by an independant brake repair company two weeks ago and I was told that about 25% of the pad life remained. I recommend you get a second opinion from someone other than your dealer next time they tell you it's time for new brakes.
A quick question to you mastro. When you fly with your hybrid do you have any annoying "wind noise" coming from around the doors? I bought my first Honda 2 months ago [Accord EX-V6]. Actually my first Japanese car ever. I don't understand why that is. Both front doors. They praise the chassis stiffness and quality but the wind noise is ridiculous. This is not acceptable. The other thing I noticed are the stupid welds around the door. I noticed a couple around the inside front area of the door by the rear view mirror. I don't get it. I love the car but these are things that shouldn't be there.
I bought a '05 Accord EX-V6 and noticed the noise. Extremely annoying. This problem is not acceptable. They over emphasize the quality build in the brochure but this is stupid. I would expect this from a little Suzuki not a Honda.
Are you sure it is wind noise and not road drumming. My '03 transfers a tremendous amount of road noise from the tires to the cabin. My '00 Odyssey is the same way.
I'm with you...Honda needs to resolve these noise issues.
My 2004 EX-L sedan also transmits considerable road noise on some types of surfaces like ribbed concrete and certain patched surfaces. On most roads, the ride is very quiet.
Wind noise is non-existent in my Accord--I've driven in some very windy areas and haven't noticed any wind noise nor handling problems....Richard
It's definitely coming from the upper window area of the driver and passenger doors. It's quite obvious wind noise. It's not loud or anything but it's annoying. I haven't called the dealer yet and I'm not sure they have any remedy for this but I'm worried that people with '03 Accords have complained about the same issue. This is the 3rd iteration of the car and the company hasn't figured out a solution to the problem? That's not right. I have noticed the door seals are quite cheap/thin compared to my previous car ['02 VW GTI].
Hey chucko3. Noticed you're from Boston. So am I. Can you tell me where I can read more information on these Technical Service Bulletins. Is the fix real or is it BS? What do you think?
http://www.northcoasttuners.com/TSB/ The TSB 03-085 applies to 03 models. You may need to tell your dealership your 05 has the exact same problem. Take the TSB with you when you go. Who is your dealship? Mine is Honda Bernadi in Natick.
I just purchased a 2005 Accord EX and I'm having the same dash rattle in the upper left hand corner of the dash around the VIN number. It started about a week after I took the car and has been persistent until about a week ago. The only thing that has changed is the weather as it has gotten much warmer in Colorado. The noise happens when I drive over bumps in the road. I've been trying to figure out exactly what the deal is and my best guess was that there is foam adhesive around the VIN that is rubbing and sticking against the windshield when the car flexes over bumps. I have a feeling the noise will be back and I think I will try a piece of rubber in the dash before taking it back to the dealer, especially after reading about some of the experiences other owners have had trying to get the nuisance fixed. It is a shame to have such a little imperfection affect my satisfaction with what is usually a benchmark product for quality.
I've owned both Honda and Toyota products. For the past seveal years, I've noticed a decrease in the "quality" of these vehicles. Do you suppose it has something to do with the fact that these cars are now being assembled in the USA?
I never had any problems with my older Honda and Toyotas... 100% manufactured and assembled in Japan. I am very disappointed in the USA-made Honda/Toyota vehicles.
I'm experiencing several annoying problems with my new '05 Toyota Camry. Very similar to the wind/cabin/tire noise that you described. Fortunately, no rattles have developed as of 2,500 miles. However, there is a major flaw with the electronic throttle/transmission. (Much discussion about this in the Toyota forum.)
Good luck with your new Honda Accord. For those of you who almost bought a Camry, be advised.... it's not much better.
I'm driving an '02 Accord EX-V6 Coupe, and after 44,000 miles there's still some treadlife left in the Michelin MXV4's, but 3 years in the Carolina sun has left me with some dry-rot issues. Sooooo it's time to replace them.
Thoughts and questions so far:
Could they have picked a more odd size? It's tough to find 205/60-16 of anything!
The Michelins are good enough, but don't seem to be an outstanding tire worthy of their price tag.
The most (seemingly) viable V-rated possibilities, the Pirelli P6 and Bridgestone Potenza RE92, were pretty universally panned. And I've seen a lot of people who had good things to say about the Yokohama Avid H4s and Bridgestone Turanza LS-H (or V?). Which makes me wonder...am I really giving up much if I go with an H-rated tire? The Accord tops out around 130mph, not that I ever expect to see those speeds.
Any other better tire ideas, or can someone dispute/backup what I've heard so far?
Bridgestone & Firestone same company. Remember the Ford Explorer issue! They have a bad record for safety. We had them removed from the 2004 Civic, as part of the new car deal. We had them replaced with Michelin tires. If you received 44,000 miles out of Michelin tires, why not stay with that product. Our 2003 Accord has 44,000 + miles on Michelin tires, and they still have plenty of rubber on the surface. My Honda dealer sells tires, so when the time comes to replace the tires,I will purchase my tires from the dealer for the following reasons. 1.) The prices are competitive, 2.) When they put the tires on the vehicle I will also have them perform an alignment, and 3.) Should something not be correct with the process, there is no tire dealer in the mix. The Honda dealer supplied the tires. They mounted the tires. They balanced the tires. They tightened the lug nuts on the wheels. They performed the alignment. So as such, any problem is their problem.
While there has been much litigated and written about the (specific model and size) Firestone tire vs. Ford Explorer issue. I believe that you have overblown the question of whether Bridgestone/Firestone tires "have a bad record for safety". That old issue should have no bearing on ronsteve's decision about which brand of tire to consider for his Accord.
Tirerack.com has 32 selections of 205/60/16; my experience with them has be excellent. Add about $90 for shipping and local mounting.
On changing or not the original tire brand and specs, a quick research will show that 1) each carmaker has a dominant criterion for choosing a certain brand and type, and 2) a consumer may differ from the carmaker and still make a sound choice (some corroborative reference: http://www.aaa-calif.com/westways/0503/overdrive.asp).
My take on Honda for favoring the Michelin Energy MXV is that fuel economy is a primary objective - a factor that plays heavily into Honda's competitive pressures and consequent market positioning. Throw in corporate volume discounts and co-marketing benefits and voila - the "untouchable" Honda and Michelin association is born.
Basically a hard compound tire, the MXV series delivers good fuel economy and tire life but falls short on road noise suppression and lateral and longitudinal (brake) grip.
For value ($70-$80) and overall performance, the Bridgestone and Yokohama products rate high in Tirerack's consumer survey results. The Michelin MXV4 series, starting at $118, was rated lower than the aforementioned 2 brands - which makes many think that the Michelin is not enough bang for the buck.
I'd go for the Yokohama, Bridgestone or even Kumho as equal or better replacements.
Don't take tire speed ratings literally. If you drive very conservatively then an R rated tire might work for you. On the other hand, if you brake late in the corners stick with the V that Honda shod it with. Don't believe that there isn't a difference between a V and an H rated tire.
Assuming your brakes work normally, your engine cannot overcome the brakes even if the throttle were to stick wide-open. This is true of Formula I cars and everything else on the road.
finally replaced exhaust. did this at a local mechanics shop. interestingly enough he too qouted 256.00 (parts + labor + taxes). he did replace muffler & entire piping.
thanks for your input.
now i am thinking abt camshaft seal + valve cover. but its way expensive abt 150 + 150.
Thanks to those who have responded to my question about tires, including atlantabenny, and even gregoryc1. I know there IS a difference between V-rated and H-rated tires, and I certainly wouldn't drop below an H rating.
So let me re-frame the question here... Who here has gone with an H-rated replacement tire on their Accord (particularly V6 models), and what results have you had with what tires? Did you notice a difference (positive or negative, maybe more related to the tire than the rating)? And it might help to give some insight on your driving habits or styles, because that could make you either more or less likely to notice the change.
My preliminary thought is to go with the Yokohama, but if the V vs. H is likely to be a major issue, I might lean toward the Bridgestone Turanza LS-V.
Oh, and I know allll about Tire Rack, and will probably order through them. I've even read the reviews, but thought it might be good to hear from Accord owners...and people with more than 2000 miles on their replacement tires.
IMHO speed rating is not material for U.S. use. We just don't drive that fast or for that long compared to the Europeans. It is warmer in the Summer here, though. The balance between treadwear and handling is more of a concern for our use.
For us wet roadholding is the #1 criterion, followed by treadwear, than dry handling. I have dedicated snows (Nokian RSi) so snow traction is not a concern in our case.
Reviews can be tricky because the behavior of a tire in one size and on one vehicle may be dramatically different in a different size and vehicle.
Btw vtec.net has a section on tires for Hondas, sponsored by Tirerack. I ask tire questions in the main Accord forum, though.
There may be a difference, but I don't think any of us will ever test it. I have a Lexus LS400 and went from a V-rated MXV to a T rated X-One. The only difference is that I can't cruise above 110 mph now. There is no other change in the day-to-day performance of the car. If you are driving where you notice the performance difference between a h and V-rated tire, maybe you are driving a bit too aggressively.
I bought my '04 Accord about 12 months ago brand new. I had the dealership swap out the emblems from the standard chrome to gold-plated. I live in IL so today was the first good weather day I could wash it. I notice after washing it that on all four emblems, the plastic coating/clearcoat is peeling off and looks terrible. Anyone else experience this? I waxed my car the end of last summer with Zaino but they looked fine. Could the emblems have come from a bad batch? Also, is there any chance the dealer won't replace them? I figure it would be under hte 3 yr/36K warranty. Thanks.
Hey chucko3. Thanks for the info. My dealer is Barnardi as well. I spoke with my salesperson and he was clueless of what I was talking about. I'll set up a time and have them take a look. I also want to drive another car and compare the difference. I really want to know what they do to remedy the problem on cars that have this problem.
Comments
brake released and RPMs go up and car starts to
move, vibration goes away. When A/C and Rear Defroster on and steering wheel angled and car in
Drive with foot on brake (such as traffic stops) vibration is extreme. >>>
My 89LXi does the same thing on a few occassions. I believe it happens when the weather is cold and the engine has not warmed up yet.
Sometime the vibration was so bad I had to put the car in neutral.
<<<When A/C and Rear Defroster on and steering wheel angled and car in
Drive with foot on brake (such as traffic stops) vibration is extreme. >>>
Also when you put the car in Reverse (backup lights are on) and foot on brake.
I am not a Honda expert. I think this is a problem with a 4-cyclinder engine. It cannot handle the loads (alternator, A/C compressor, P/S pump) put on.
When the steering wheel is in an angle, the P/S pump works harder.
You won't see this vibration problem with the V6 engine.
Just put the car into neutral if the (extreme) vibration bothers you so much.
I don't think you will have any problem driving your car to 350K miles with all the maintenance you did. My friend has a 90'LX A/T.
The car still runs great at 340K+ miles. He decided not to change the t-belt at 300K miles. If the belt breaks, it's the end of it.
I am finalizing my decision and recently, given the data available on a Toyota V6 issue with regards to acceleration hesitation (safety!), found myself flip flopping. While I was not all together pleased with the Camry SE/XLE interior, I've got a large family and appreciated the space the vehicle offered. My concern with the Accord was with regards to back seat space. Can three pre-teens fit back there comfortably? I've sat in the car but have not dragged my children in to do the same.
Also, are the rattling issues complained about with the Accord that annoying?
Thanks.
Has anyone had these rattles, specifically steering wheel column, and window seals (two front doors), and has anybody had a fix? The dealer replaced the horn assembly for the steering wheel rattle, which worked but only for one month. For the window seal rattles, they replaced the run channels but this worked only for one week. Lubing the window seals today didn't do a darn thing. I feel like I've got a ten year old car that I was tricked into buying new! I feel like a sucker!!!
Anyone--please help / advise! Thanks.
As far as the room goes. My 6'6 husband has sat in the back seat before next to my son (who is still in a car seat). It really depends on the height of your kids. Take them out and let them sit in both. With 3 kids you might want to consider a mini-van or a larger sedan such as the Altima/Maxima, Avalon, etc.
A "conscientious rattle-seeker" in one of the forums a while back found the solution. He discovered that the front window glass rattle was being caused by 2 metal parts of the window riser mechanism hitting. After he wrapped the parts with some adhesive material, the noise went away for good.
Anyone who tells you brake load is 50/50 needs to have their brain serviced. Does that make any sense to you at all? Unless they are talking about the average load over time for a car that happens to be driven as much in reverse as it is in forward, they are smoking something. Obviously there is increased load on the front brakes. Honda decreased the size of the rear brake pads on their vehicles after a certain model year to make up for the difference. I imagine because they either wanted people to have to replace the rear ones more often than...uhh...almost never or because they decided to cut costs with smaller pads on the rears. I seem to remember someone complaining that their newer Accord's rears wore out much faster than their old Accord's did and the response was that Honda had reduced the size of the rear pads. It may have even been back in this forum's earlier days.
As for putting your car into neutral when people cross in front of you, how about just keeping your foot firmly on the brakes like everyone else does? If your can be stopped in a few hundred feet while going 60 then there's no way that your car can overcome your brakes at a dead stop. Don't believe me, try it sometime...you won't go anywhere.
PS - I'm pretty certain the comment about shutting your car off was sarcasm man.
Exactly what is, or where is the "window riser mechanism", and where are these metal parts? Have you been able to have yours fixed as well? Has anyone else out there heard of this too? Thanks.
It's a tricky problem because the rattle is transmitted to, and not created at, the area of the noise. What transmits it is the window channel (hence, it being the first suspect) that runs around the whole window frame up to the area behind the front door speakers.
I'm probably mistaken in saying that it's the riser mechanism (motor and gear unit that regulates window opening); according to post 6704, it's the metal part of the window channel near the riser mechanism area that rubs against another metallic part.
The rubbing noise is carried by the window channel to the window glass. The fix is to put material between those 2 metal parts to eliminate the noise.
There was a post probably in another forum which included photos of the owner showing the repair, but I can't locate it.
The windshield noise is now gone and the following are the Tech Notes on the fix:
"Customer states, check for crackling/rattling noise from left front corner of the windshield...
Metal Hitting at Shock Tower.
Removed upper dash cover, instrument cluster assembly, Test Drove. Noise Still persisted. Pulled (A) pillar assembly, Left corner headliner, Test Drove. Noise still present. Reinstalled dash, cluster assembly and (A) pillar trim. Installed Chasis ear on inside of dash. No Noise present from inside of car. Installed Chasis Ear(s) on outside of vehicle, Heard noise at Shock Tower. Adjusted Body at shock tower, metal touching together, Test Drove with Service Manager.
No Other Noise present."
The problem has not resurfaced.
Hope that Helps.
FM radio always noisy in BAY AREA, California in any weather condition, especially 88.5.
I bout my car to dealership and they did drive test with me. They were agreeing about noises from radio and transmission but they told me it's by design. We drove another car and street noise was more then turbo noise.
Technician was willing to change transmission and radio to eliminate to make me happy but they did once for somebody and it was much worse.
I have to live with it.
Your car should NOT be making any transmission noises at 65-70 MPH. In fact, there should be almost no mechanical noise from the car at all when driving at a steady 70-80 MPH.
Radio reception in the San Francisco area is not very good in my opinion except for the XM radio which I'm glad is standard in my '04 EX-L sedan. XM radio is very clear--no static or other noises (and no commercials, either!)....Richard
what bugs me is the annoying wind noise driving down the highway from both front doors. i don't get it. i might need to slightly move the door stricker further in to pull the door in a bit more. that might help.
hope your problem goes away with that fix.
When I bought the car a month ago, there was no rattle. Within 1 week a rattle started in the left hand corner of the dash near the windshield when driving over rough roads. I took it in, dealer took the molding over the A-pillar off, put it back on and the noise went away. One week later the noise came back stronger. I took it back in, dealer heard noise. Took molding off, put it back on, and ordered a new molding (coming later this week). Noise still there though - so not sure what the problem is (didn't temporarily go away again).
I've tried stuffing cardboard, rubber, sponges anything between the dash and the windshield, the dash and the a-pillar, the a-pillar and the windshield...nothing has worked.
I've had the car a month and the frustration is setting in.
Anyone else run across this problem?
It's a new feature, that some electrical components are operable, a minute or so after the key is removed.
Hardly new - my 97 Accord has this feature. Sunroof works, too.
Shock tower adjustment did not work for my car. Your noise my mostly "go away" after a year or so (but you'll still be able to hear it).
Will continue to lurk here for a while until I know what the solution to this problem is.
Good luck.......
I bought a '05 Accord EX-V6 and noticed the noise. Extremely annoying. This problem is not acceptable. They over emphasize the quality build in the brochure but this is stupid. I would expect this from a little Suzuki not a Honda.
I'm with you...Honda needs to resolve these noise issues.
Wind noise is non-existent in my Accord--I've driven in some very windy areas and haven't noticed any wind noise nor handling problems....Richard
It looks like this TSB applies to your car.
My 03EXV6 is very quiet.
Is the fix real or is it BS? What do you think?
Thx
The TSB 03-085 applies to 03 models. You may need to tell your dealership your 05 has the exact same problem. Take the TSB with you when you go.
Who is your dealship? Mine is Honda Bernadi in Natick.
I've owned both Honda and Toyota products. For the past seveal years, I've noticed a decrease in the "quality" of these vehicles. Do you suppose it has something to do with the fact that these cars are now being assembled in the USA?
I never had any problems with my older Honda and Toyotas... 100% manufactured and assembled in Japan. I am very disappointed in the USA-made Honda/Toyota vehicles.
I'm experiencing several annoying problems with my new '05 Toyota Camry. Very similar to the wind/cabin/tire noise that you described. Fortunately, no rattles have developed as of 2,500 miles. However, there is a major flaw with the electronic throttle/transmission. (Much discussion about this in the Toyota forum.)
Good luck with your new Honda Accord. For those of you who almost bought a Camry, be advised.... it's not much better.
Thoughts and questions so far:
Could they have picked a more odd size? It's tough to find 205/60-16 of anything!
The Michelins are good enough, but don't seem to be an outstanding tire worthy of their price tag.
The most (seemingly) viable V-rated possibilities, the Pirelli P6 and Bridgestone Potenza RE92, were pretty universally panned. And I've seen a lot of people who had good things to say about the Yokohama Avid H4s and Bridgestone Turanza LS-H (or V?). Which makes me wonder...am I really giving up much if I go with an H-rated tire? The Accord tops out around 130mph, not that I ever expect to see those speeds.
Any other better tire ideas, or can someone dispute/backup what I've heard so far?
Thanx!!
While there has been much litigated and written about the (specific model and size) Firestone tire vs. Ford Explorer issue. I believe that you have overblown the question of whether Bridgestone/Firestone tires "have a bad record for safety". That old issue should have no bearing on ronsteve's decision about which brand of tire to consider for his Accord.
Here's one example of some worthwhile reading:
http://www.junkscience.com/oct00/blame.htm
On changing or not the original tire brand and specs, a quick research will show that 1) each carmaker has a dominant criterion for choosing a certain brand and type, and 2) a consumer may differ from the carmaker and still make a sound choice (some corroborative reference: http://www.aaa-calif.com/westways/0503/overdrive.asp).
My take on Honda for favoring the Michelin Energy MXV is that fuel economy is a primary objective - a factor that plays heavily into Honda's competitive pressures and consequent market positioning. Throw in corporate volume discounts and co-marketing benefits and voila - the "untouchable" Honda and Michelin association is born.
Basically a hard compound tire, the MXV series delivers good fuel economy and tire life but falls short on road noise suppression and lateral and longitudinal (brake) grip.
For value ($70-$80) and overall performance, the Bridgestone and Yokohama products rate high in Tirerack's consumer survey results. The Michelin MXV4 series, starting at $118, was rated lower than the aforementioned 2 brands - which makes many think that the Michelin is not enough bang for the buck.
I'd go for the Yokohama, Bridgestone or even Kumho as equal or better replacements.
PS Speed ratings are autobahn-based so moving down as far as the "R" rating, at 106 mph, will be acceptable for most of us (ref: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/speed.jsp)
I crammed a bunch of felt between the window and the dash and the rattle has gone away.
thanks for your input.
now i am thinking abt camshaft seal + valve cover.
but its way expensive abt 150 + 150.
So let me re-frame the question here... Who here has gone with an H-rated replacement tire on their Accord (particularly V6 models), and what results have you had with what tires? Did you notice a difference (positive or negative, maybe more related to the tire than the rating)? And it might help to give some insight on your driving habits or styles, because that could make you either more or less likely to notice the change.
My preliminary thought is to go with the Yokohama, but if the V vs. H is likely to be a major issue, I might lean toward the Bridgestone Turanza LS-V.
Oh, and I know allll about Tire Rack, and will probably order through them.
For us wet roadholding is the #1 criterion, followed by treadwear, than dry handling. I have dedicated snows (Nokian RSi) so snow traction is not a concern in our case.
Reviews can be tricky because the behavior of a tire in one size and on one vehicle may be dramatically different in a different size and vehicle.
Btw vtec.net has a section on tires for Hondas, sponsored by Tirerack. I ask tire questions in the main Accord forum, though.