All, The below is lengthy but details my recent events
The following are my recent events with regards to the '05 Accord EXL 5speed MT I purchased on Jan 3rd 2005.
Jan 3rd: Purchased Vehicle.
Jan 4th: Picked up Vehicle from the Dealership.
Jan 6th: High Temps dropped from the mid 60s to the low 30s. The windshield would make loud popping and crackling noises when riding over bumps in the road. It was very loud and I thought that the winshield was going to either crack or pop out. Due to some out of town business, the car sat in my garage until in got bak in town on Jan 27th.
Jan 27th: That afternoon, I took the car by the dealer and had my service agent take a ride with me. The cracking and the popping was the loudest it had been. He said bring it by in the morning and they would get it fixed. Only 290 miles on the vehicle and have yet to buy my first tank of gas.
Jan 28th: The temps climb back up to the mid 60s. The noise dissapears for the Tech. He just pulls the windshield and reseats it adjusting the resting place. No more noise. The Service Agent says he is sceptical about the fix that the Tech did but said to bring it back if it happens again.
Tech's Notes: "Headliner out of Adjustment.. Dropped Headliner and re-installed..."
Jan 30th: Temps drop back down into the mid 40s. The Noise is back just a little quieter but more frequent.
Jan 31st: Morning: I drop the vehicle off at the dealer and told them that it was not fixed.
Afternoon: I picked it up and the ticket was still open but they told me that they did extensive work on it to fix it, yet the Service Mgr had not signed off on the ticket, but I was free to take it and they would mail me my receipt. Have yet to receive it, but I will post Tech Notes when I get them. They put almost 40 miles onto the car while it was in the shop.
Anway, they noises started right away when I left the dealership. I had some major business going on Tuesday and could not return it until Wed Morn. I called my service agent and let him know my plans.
Feb 2nd: The service agent comments, It is groundhog day, the movie or what?? I drop it off for them to take another look at it. I tell my service agent that if you don't fix it this time, I am going to want either my money back or a new Vehicle.
Feb 3rd: In the Afternoon, I call to check up on the car. They say it will be ready by closing. I get there to pick it up and I get the same thing as the 2nd repair, There is an open ticket on it and they will mail me the repair ticket. Everyone from the Sales Mgr, tech, service agent and Service Mgr drove the vehicle to make sure the noise was gone. When I drove it out there was no noise, I was a happy camper. Oh, they put almost 100 miles on the vehicle. Not to mention that 40% of the miles (738 total) where either going to and from the dealership and them driving it to figure out the problem.
They told me that they did major surgery on the Vehicle. They had to remove the dash and did a side-by-side comparison with another vehicle to try and identify and fix the problem. Again, I will post the Tech notes, when I get them.
Feb 4th: It in the mid 30s this morning and no noise, I was a happy camper. The Temps warmed up to the mid 50s, still no noise at lunch time. After work, it goes all down hill again. The noise is about 40% as loud as the original noise, yet the noise is happening all the time. I don't even have to go over a bump. I'm riding down the road smooth payment and the a continous rattling, popping and crackling is happening. I made up my mind to that I am going to take it to the dealership in the morning and demand a new vehicle.
Today: Feb 5th: I get up and go for donuts to make sure that the noise is still occuring. It is!!! Temps are in the mid 50s. After breakfast, I start getting my stuff together to take the vehicle back to the dealer. Prior to leaving, I decide to take my License Plate and put it in the back window dash for the trip to the dealership. The garage door is up. I head back into the house to put up the wrench and grab the papers for the car. I open the garage door with keys in my pocket. Then Oh My Goodness!!!
The car is rolling backwards halfway across the cove. I take off running as fast as I can to try and stop it. It is heading toward a work van parked at the mouth of the circular part of the cove. I reach the car and grab the driver side handle. As soon as I grab the handle and started to pull, the door opens and the left rear part of the bumper impacts with the left front fender of the work van. The van was an 89 GMC Safari. Needless to say there was more damage to my vehicle than to the van.
The car jumped out of gear and it must have start to roll shortly after I closed the rear driver side door after putting the license plate near the rear window.
I call the cops and took pics of the scene. The cops come out and do the paper work on the accident. They issue me a ticket for "Performance Ability of Breakes." Then to my surprise and the owner of the van, the cops issue him a ticket for parking illegally. His vehicle was facing the wrong direction for the side of the road it was parked on.
Then I called the Insurance Co to get the ball rolling and open up a claim. For now the car is back in the driveway with the tires chalked just in case it pops out of gear again.
Mon, Feb 7th ought to be interesting, I have lots of people to talk to: Lawyer, Ins Claims Agent, Service Mgr at Dealership.. and who knows whatelse.
Wierd, Frustrating and the whole range of emotions. I was just 30 seconds away from getting rid of the car.
I am giddy. Just trying to safe guard by soliciting the good Accord owners in this forum to help a "newbie" out.
Does the timing belt/chain have a peep hole positioned right in the engine compartment? I test drove this, ran the carfax on it, and all was in remarkable condition. I knew a guy who took me for a ride in his back in '91 when it was new. The visibility was and still is what strikes me about these. Course he had an auto and this one's a stick. I'm stoked, although the od reads 210K+. Derfore any perspectives or direction where I can (hopefully) research its maintenance and get on the hoo-ha doing preventative maintenance..... well I thank everyone in advance. I understand this might run as long as my '84 Corolla engined Vanwagon I sold today. Sad to see it go, but this is an encouraging switch, and it was worn out LE. This beauty has apparently all its bells in tune. Again, any precautions is stellar. THX
oh, relocating to Hotland, Phoenix, AZ and need to tow the tiniest uHaul trailer behind it. It has the horses, no? The clutch didn't slip on the test drive, so again -tell me more than I'm crazy. like how to remedy my insanity. I drove a'85 bimmer I paid $100 for to Austin and back to cowtown, Missouri on new years, so I have a history of taking chances. the catch was I had coolant, tools and a Bentley I'd been studying prior. Okay, enough. Thanks again for any responses re: preventative stuff on the '92 EX
I'm trying to decide between a used 2001/2002 Accord or Camry. However, I'm very worried about both the Honda's transmission problems and the Camry's oil sludging during those years. I'm a Consumer Reports nut and like to really know what I'm in for. Honda did put in a recall for their transmissions, but Toyota put stipulations on their recall saying that the oil needed to be strictly replaced every 3000 miles and by a dealer. This makes me think that at least Honda is being a little more proactive at getting their problem fixed, instead of trying to pin blame on the consumer. Given that I'm buying a used car from a 1st or 2nd owner (private party seller), it could be questionable if a Camry was treated as it should per Toyota's specs. Although I dislike a dealer's higher price (w/tax, reconditioning fees, etc) as well as their mind game tactics, I wonder if a certified used car is the route to go in either case. The inspections, reconditioning, and 12 month warranty usually offered with certified cars is starting to appeal because of the above worries.
I'm also trying to decide between a Japan or U.S. country of manufacturer/assembly. I've always heard that Japan plants put tighter tolerances and higher QA on their cars. Has that work ethic caught up with U.S. union auto workers who are assembling those cars here in the U.S.?
I have owned over 10 Honda including motorcyles, Civic and Accord and not a single Honda ever got tranny problem. 2 of them ran over 220K miles, one Civic ran 120K miles and I sold it to buy an Accord. As far as I know no tranny problems with Honda. The Accord V6 03 was recalled to have some preventive maintenance on the 2nd gear. No big deal.
I have an 05 Accord V6 that just turned 2,000 miles and is flawless. Only problem children get reported here.
My alloy wheels on my 97 accord are showing corrosion, scuffs and chipped paint on the wheel caps, I would like to replace them with some aftermarket alloys. Asthesitics aside, what should I look for in new alloys in as far as construction (2-piece 3-piece casts etc.).
EBay has tons if Honda alloys for sale by people who are replacing OEM wheels with bigger ones. I bought a set of four OEM's almost new for $242.50 plus shipping.
Or, you could try an outfit like RimPro that will refinish your existing wheels. Spending $1,000 on wheeels is not going to pay off economically.
Just discovered this site yesterday and hoping someone can help me out. Bought an '04 Accord EX with 11,000 miles on it. There is a clicking/ticking noise which seems to be coming from the RR area of the interior roof. At times it is non-existent and at other times it sounds like a Geiger counter going off. I can reach up and apply minimal pressure to the headliner behind the sun roof and the noise will stop. As soon as I release, the noise begins again. It seems to be caused by normal road vibrations and happens with the sunroof open or closed. I've had it to the dealer 4 times with no luck. They have messed with the headliner several times. The last time they said it was caused by the RR strut vibrating against the body and adjusted and greased the top mount. The next day the noise was back. Has anyone else experienced this? What was the fix? Thanks.
This past summer temperatures got up to 105 degrees at times in my area. With the AC cranked, it struggled to cool the interior.
It is hard to say if it was much better when the car was new. Luckily the 96-97 accords of this generation use the newer and cheaper R-134a refrigerent. To Accord owners with R134a AC systems, how long did your AC system last (years) before you needed a recharge? What should I expect the cost to be? Is there a way to cheaply determine if it needs a recharge? Can the do-it-yourself person just use a kit?
Many thanks on the answer to my question about the "engine oil flush". But I also asked about the Power Steering flush. When is that usually done on Honda Accord ex 4 cylinder? I checked the manual with no luck.
I posted under Honda sedan see post #16749 2/3/05, for my cure. It has been over 5 days now & no more awful noise. Now I can start enjoying the car I bought 11/17/04. Hip Hip Hooray Three Cheers!!!
Got a `94 Accord 2.3i SR with 150k on the clock and engine has been rock solid until recently developed problem. Engine started revving constantly to 2000rpm. Took it to Honda dealer and they found a sticky engine valve which was rectified with an engine flush. Honda said may happen again and if it does the valve will need replacing.
Has anyone suffered same problem? If so is it a single valve replacement or will Honda recommend a full change of all 16 valves? Any average costs charged for this? Just inquisitive to know.
I have had a similar experience. My 2005 EX 4 cylinder is supposed to get 25-35 mpg, barely makes 20. The dealer says things like "it's the Winter gas".
Bought a new LX Accord 2005 a month ago and within 700 miles have noticed a rattle from the airbag assembly on the driver side (within the steering column). Does anyone know of any TSB's on this item? There was a recall earlier on the airbag itself, but no mention of this rattle. At the dealership I noted that 3-4 cars had come in with the same complaint. This rattle is quite audible on slightly bad patches of pavement (like the bay area freeways!) and can even be heard over lane divider stubs on the road. The dealer is keeping my car for 2 days with no commit on delivery date. They wouldnt give me a shuttle back either since I wasnt paying for any repairs!
Is it just me, or does it seem like your 7th gen Accord has lost its' smooth ride after approx 15,000 miles? Mine has 17,000, 2004 V6 sedan, and not only do I have several rattles, some of them possibly/partially fixed after several visits to dealer, but more importantly I have noticed that the ride overall is flatter, rougher, and noisier overall. I feel like the car has aged 10 years! It's still got a smooth engine, tranny, and brakes are ok, but I feel like the body and interior are old! I have heard of people fixing one rattle, then finding another, etc, and I wonder if that's the general trend with these cars? I didn't expect this with a Honda, let alone highly advanced, state-of-the-art Accord! Sure, all cars sound and ride much worse years later, and I don't expect the car to be new forever, but should there be a significant, annoying difference after only 17,000 miles!?
Is it possible it's the suspension that weakens, causing the ride and body to deteriorate? If so, are there tests the dealer can do to check the suspension, any measurements? I wonder if the suspensions are faulty, or poor quality? Or could it be that the tires loose their ride quality quickly over 15,000 miles? Maybe we all need to upgrade the tires? Or is the body and interior so poorly put together that it creaks, squeaks, and rattles, after so many miles? I wish I could pinpoint the problem, because like many on this board, I am tired of hearing new noises/rattles, and recently I have decided that in general I am tired that I feel like the car is "aging" too quickly!
If you are saying that you can take a 200 mile trip on the Interstate driving normally at the speed limit in 60 degree weather and you can't get over 20 MPG with a 4 cylinder engine, then I'd say something is wrong.
I've noticed when I start my car and try to take the gear shift out of "Park", the button (on the shift) is locked-up or won't depress so I can take it out of "Park". The button depresses after I rev the engine or apply my foot to the brake several times. It seems to happen most (but not always), when my car has been left outside in the cold. Any feedback to this issue would greatly be appreciated!
My wife and I bought an '05 Accord LX on Jan 15th and had the windshield popping and cracking problem from day one! It was warm when we test drove so we couldn't hear it. That night it got cold (40's) and it was poppin' and crackin' all over the place. Sounded like the windshield was going to come out! Long story short, we ended up taking it in twice. The first time they resealed the windshield where the noise was coming from. That didn't fix it. The second time they resealed the entire windshield (so they say, I have no way of confirming this). That was two weeks ago and the problem appears to be gone. I can still hear it occasionally but it's 90% better and unfortunately I think I have to live with that. I also have a rattle coming from the backseat headliner area, haven't tackled that one yet.
I am disappointed with Honda, I thought buying an Accord was a no brainer and assured a quiet and reliable car. Well, I think it will be mechanically reliable, it's definitely not as rattle and noise free as I had hoped. Good luck with yours, sounds like the accident just complicated the issue. Is yours by chance a Mexican built Accord? I wonder if that has anything to do with the noise issues ...
Are you sure you have your foot on the brake pedal when you are moving the gearshift lever out of park? If yes, there might be a problem with the interlock that prevents shifting out of park if you foot is not on the brake pedal.
Go to your dealer and buy a case of the power steering fluid and then go to Wal-Mart and get a turkey baster. About every 10,000 miles I suck out all I can with the turkey baster and refill, drive it around the block and then repeat the procedure....three times. It is easy to do yourself and only takes about 20 minutes and is cheap. If you do this regularly you won't need the "flush" and this is much easier and cheaper.
My sister-in-law has a 2000 EX V6 with 100,000 miles on it and so far she has had no problems with the tranny. I owned a 2001 EX V6 and a 2004 EX automatic and had no problems with either tranny.
Yes, I have my foot on the brake. I can't move the gearshift out of park because I can't even depress the button to allow the gearshift to be moved out of gear. ????????
I have an accord of the same year. Honda is seeing serious issues emerge with this generation's automatic transmission. As the 98-99 model years come in with higher mileage honda service departments are encountering a wider variety of issues related to tha A/T transmission in these cars. I've personally seen accords come in with everything from noise emissions issues originating in the tranny, to hydraulic failure.
I've heard of similar problems. A honda dealer will insist on a full valve job. Which is wise in regards to the difference in valve spring retention between the new and old valve springs. A full valve job can be very expensive. I'd sell the car and work on getting into a newer accord, or an '00 prelude.
This past summer temperatures got up to 105 degrees at times in my area. With the AC cranked, it struggled to cool the interior.
It is hard to say if it was much better when the car was new. Luckily the 96-97 accords of this generation use the newer and cheaper R-134a refrigerent. To Accord owners with R134a AC systems, how long did your AC system last (years) before you needed a recharge? What should I expect the cost to be? Is there a way to cheaply determine if it needs a recharge? Can the do-it-yourself person just use a kit?
The easiest way to check your AC system is to buy a thermometer and check the output air temperature. I think it's supposed to be 50-55 degrees but you will have to consult a dealer or service manual for the recommendation. A place like Pep oys may be able to sell you the thermometer and tell you the temp. Many but not all cars have a "sight glass" that will show bubbles if the system is low on refrigerant.
Recharge service usually runs $35-75 and many garages can perform it as well as the dealer. It's best to let them do it because they have the gages to measure the operating pressures, and if the system is very low might even require the system have a vacuum pulled first before recharging.
I'm alsways surprised many people don't realize how much faster the system will cool the car down if the vent is set to recirculate the air, rather than draw in outside air.
Recently bought a 2005 EX V-6 4-door. It has about 900 miles on it now. I noticed right from the start that the wheel turns ever so slightly to the right and the car drifts to the right also. At first I figured it was the contour of the road but soon it was happening in all lanes and driving conditions. I brought it to the dealer the other day and they came back with the response that they had two techs drive it (about 30 miles and 1/4 tank of gas) and they do see the drift but feel it is the roads. I asked them to put it on the alignment machine and I got a copy of the report. Everything looks fine on the report, but like today when driving to work, I am at a stop and start driving and the wheel and the car start off to the right. Could it be that the alignment is right but maybe I have a bad tire?
Anyone else experience this problem? What did you do?
I have an Accord 2005 Ex-l, which I bought in October of 04 and I am experiencing the same problem. The first couple of weeks it felt perfect, but for some reason the car drifts to the left a little now. I was thinking of bringing it in to the car dealer. I didn't know if it was the pot holes here in new york that caused it, or if it's a manufacturer issue.
Well, I finally got my car back with out any noises... Thus, it appears to be fixed.
They also tightened the emergency brake.
Anyway, the Tech Notes on the fix for the Crackling noises are as follows:
"Customer states, check for crackling/rattling noise from left front corner of the windshield...
Metal Hitting at Shock Tower.
Removed upper dash cover, instrument cluster assembly, Test Drove. Noise Still persisted. Pulled (A) pillar assembly, Left corner headliner, Test Drove. Noise still present. Reinstalled dash, cluster assembly and (A) pillar trim. Installed Chasis ear on inside of dash. No Noise present from inside of car. Installed Chasis Ear(s) on outside of vehicle, Heard noise at Shock Tower. Adjusted Body at shock tower, metal touching together, Test Drove with Service Manager.
No Other Noise present."
I just picked the car up and it was cold this morning, Temps in the low 30s. I test drove with the Service Mgr and no noise was present.
So I have my car back, crackling and noise free. I have a trip this weekend that will doulbe the mileage on the vehicle. And then I will take it back in next Tuesday to get the Bumper cover repaired.
check the tire pressure on all 4 tires with a good pressure gauge. If everything seems normal, swap the front tires, I read here that swapping the front tires (LF-RF) solved the problem for a number of 03's. If that doesn't work, take it back to the dealer and let him check it out. My 03'EXV6 Sedan doesn't drift at all.
I have a 03 Accord EXV6 and recently someone clipped my front bumper. The only damage is a torn front bumper cover. Needless to say I’ll be paying for the repairs out of pocket. To save money I am having the repairs done with an aftermarket bumper cover. If I’m not mistaken insurance companies authorize aftermarket parts all the time. My question is will there be a noticeable appearance difference between an OEM and an aftermarket bumper cover?
Every single aftermarket bumper cover made anywhere in the world for an '03 Accord matches it's OEM equivalent so closely that not even a blind man could tell the difference.
One of our vehicles is a 2003 4 cylinder Accord with 44,000 + miles. While we do not have the rattles, the quality of the ride seems to have changed. (The vehicle is 24 months old). Until I read your posting, I thought it was my imagination, but you have described the situation very well. Maybe it is the way the front seats are aging in terms of interior construction, but after a road trip, my comfort level starts to become an "issue",----(and we have the power driver's seat on this vehicle), so as such, we have the capabilities to adjusting the position of the seat to the steering wheel. What we are feeling could also be the aging of the suspension components. What ever it is, the vehicle seems different, as it ages!
I have a 1996 Honda Accord EX 5 Speed manual. Last night I went to leave work and the clutch won't disengage. This has happened before when it is below 20 degrees outside, but when the car warmed up it would work just fine. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
My 1998 Honda Accord EX has a hesitation when I press on the gas. Once I take my foot off of the gas, the hesitation stops and it cruises right along. If I put my foot back on the gas to accelerate, it starta again. It eventually stops after maybe 15 miles or so. Any ideas. Also, my check engine lights comes on and then goes off. Sometimes it stays on for days and then sometimes it goes off for days. I need some real advice.
My 2005 EX accord, 4 cylinder acts the same too with only 2,000 miles. The ride is bumpy, noisy, not as smooth as my 1999 accord. I do not know if mine is lemon or that is the new design ?.
Have similar issues with 2005 EX with Nav. Seems like headliner, and passanger side door and something in the rear, especialy at highway speed right turns there is a rattle..
Per my previous post, I have had this "airbag assembly rattle". It took the dealer several visits to figure it out, and they initially told me that nothing could be done. They said it had something to do with a "faulty spring" in the horn plate/airbag assembly. I convinced them to replace the assembly, which they did. The rattle disappeared for approx 1 month, and now it is back. I am now very frustrated to say the least. I have no idea what to do now. I have had Honda of America involved previously, but even they didn't know what to do in the first place.
Does anyone else have a similar steering column rattle/buzzing sound? Any other fixes or experiences? Thanks!
Your tires have 44,000 miles less rubber on them than when they were new. Riding with a somewhat "balder" set of tires can affect your perception of ride comfort.
Both you and slawenda might want to check your tires' air pressure. If you are running higher than the pressures specified on the door frame label you might also be affecting your ride quality.
I bought my 2003 Accord LX w/ auto about two yrs ago, and it has been a nightmare, can anyone tell me if they have had these same problems so i can continue to pursue honda? (i have over 50k miles, but understand that i can still get it under lemon here in texas)
problems:
1) Tight brakes, the cars brakes have been EXTREMLY tight since the day i have bought it, two sets of pads and a set of rotors in the front and a set of pads and numerous resurfusing on both the front and rear brakes.
2) A/C always gave me problems, and then just stopped working, at 13,000 miles or so, had a bad switch, repair was done in a day, and i was back on the road.
3) The front bumpers paint was messed up, and had to be re-finished (the car sat at the dealership for over a month while i was in their new 03 accord as a rental).
4) numerous fit and finish three or so mlding pieces on the window and a few pieces of molding on the inside of the car have been replaced including the rear speakers (which i think just blew with loud music?) also now i am out of warranty the silver on the shifter is coming off at the cost of $25.00 to repair.
5) now this is where i really got mad, honda gave me a honda care package with $0 deductable as compensation for my problems (since the lemon law in tx is really hard to pursue) recently i was at the dealership to get my radiator flushed, and noticed that the level was low so i mentioned it to them, only to find out that i have a hose that is leaking, not only is the part not in, it is been three weeks and the part is still not in stock, also honda care does not cover it. What does it cover if it does not cover the radiator hose?
Sorry for such a long post, but i am REALLY aggitated with this matter, and honda just doenst care about me as a customer, my family has owned like 6 hondas in the past and this is the only one with so many problems. I even mentioned that rather then replace my car, that if they could cover my trade to the point where i would not be upsidedown (2000$ which is not alot considering i am a long term customer who LOVES the honda product) i would be MORE then willing to get into another honda product.
please reply and let me know if someone else is having these same problems.
Based upon your post, it would seem that Honda is not your problem so much as your dealership is the problem.
No, in the 14,000 miles that I've driven my 2004 Accord Coupe, I've not experienced ANY of the concerns that you've described.
1) Your term "tight brakes" is somewhat confusing. It's possible that your brake calipers may not be releasing properly when you remove your foot from the pedal. That could cause premature wear on pads and rotors. Your dealer, or preferably another shop, should check the caliper action.
2) The new A/C switch sounds like it resolved your concerns quickly and completely.
3) No body shop would take more than a day to refinish a bumper.
4) If they've replaced those interior parts, you should now be satisfied. Are you?
5) Since Honda Care is just an extended warranty, it may not cover normal wear & tear components such as hoses. Your Honda Care contract should have a list of covered and non-covered components. Have you read it? In any case, such hoses would be available within an hour anywhere in the United States.
I'd take my car to another repair shop. Yours sounds totally incompetent. Or, they are trying to discourage you from coming back.
I bought this car in late 1999 and have 55K miles on it. I have been very happy with it until recently. About 6 months ago, my car stalled a few times at start up and my check engine light came on. I went to the dealer and a service tech told me that it was probably due to me not tightening the cap on gas tank. I don't remember how the check engine light was reset but the problem never recurred until a bout a month ago and has now happened about several times in the last month despite my gas cap being tight and refilling the tank a few times. My check engine light came on at the beginning of this most recent experience, but then it went off and then came back on again and has now been on for about a week, although my car hasn't stalled at startup in the last 5 or 6 days. Earlier today as I was driving home, going at 30MPH, without warning or any change in mechanical performance, the battery light came on, the brake light came on, and the indicators that my tail lamps were out, and that my trunk and doors were ajar all came on. The car continued to drive smoothly. I was home a few minutes later, parked, killed the engine, restarted with no problems, but all of these lights, along with the check engine light still remain on with the engine idling or the car moving. I restarted the car a few times but this didn't help. I have no idea what is going on. Any advice/insight would be appreciated. Could it be my air filter? I bought one recently thinking this was causing the stalls, but couldn't access the filter as my screw driver just seemed to strip the screws.
Comments
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The following are my recent events with regards to the '05 Accord EXL 5speed MT I purchased on Jan 3rd 2005.
Jan 3rd: Purchased Vehicle.
Jan 4th: Picked up Vehicle from the Dealership.
Jan 6th: High Temps dropped from the mid 60s to the low 30s. The windshield would make loud popping and crackling noises when riding over bumps in the road. It was very loud and I thought that the winshield was going to either crack or pop out. Due to some out of town business, the car sat in my garage until in got bak in town on Jan 27th.
Jan 27th: That afternoon, I took the car by the dealer and had my service agent take a ride with me. The cracking and the popping was the loudest it had been. He said bring it by in the morning and they would get it fixed. Only 290 miles on the vehicle and have yet to buy my first tank of gas.
Jan 28th: The temps climb back up to the mid 60s. The noise dissapears for the Tech. He just pulls the windshield and reseats it adjusting the resting place. No more noise. The Service Agent says he is sceptical about the fix that the Tech did but said to bring it back if it happens again.
Tech's Notes: "Headliner out of Adjustment.. Dropped Headliner and re-installed..."
Jan 30th: Temps drop back down into the mid 40s. The Noise is back just a little quieter but more frequent.
Jan 31st: Morning: I drop the vehicle off at the dealer and told them that it was not fixed.
Afternoon: I picked it up and the ticket was still open but they told me that they did extensive work on it to fix it, yet the Service Mgr had not signed off on the ticket, but I was free to take it and they would mail me my receipt. Have yet to receive it, but I will post Tech Notes when I get them. They put almost 40 miles onto the car while it was in the shop.
Anway, they noises started right away when I left the dealership. I had some major business going on Tuesday and could not return it until Wed Morn. I called my service agent and let him know my plans.
Feb 2nd: The service agent comments, It is groundhog day, the movie or what?? I drop it off for them to take another look at it. I tell my service agent that if you don't fix it this time, I am going to want either my money back or a new Vehicle.
Feb 3rd: In the Afternoon, I call to check up on the car. They say it will be ready by closing. I get there to pick it up and I get the same thing as the 2nd repair, There is an open ticket on it and they will mail me the repair ticket. Everyone from the Sales Mgr, tech, service agent and Service Mgr drove the vehicle to make sure the noise was gone. When I drove it out there was no noise, I was a happy camper. Oh, they put almost 100 miles on the vehicle. Not to mention that 40% of the miles (738 total) where either going to and from the dealership and them driving it to figure out the problem.
They told me that they did major surgery on the Vehicle. They had to remove the dash and did a side-by-side comparison with another vehicle to try and identify and fix the problem. Again, I will post the Tech notes, when I get them.
Feb 4th: It in the mid 30s this morning and no noise, I was a happy camper. The Temps warmed up to the mid 50s, still no noise at lunch time. After work, it goes all down hill again. The noise is about 40% as loud as the original noise, yet the noise is happening all the time. I don't even have to go over a bump. I'm riding down the road smooth payment and the a continous rattling, popping and crackling is happening. I made up my mind to that I am going to take it to the dealership in the morning and demand a new vehicle.
Today: Feb 5th: I get up and go for donuts to make sure that the noise is still occuring. It is!!! Temps are in the mid 50s. After breakfast, I start getting my stuff together to take the vehicle back to the dealer. Prior to leaving, I decide to take my License Plate and put it in the back window dash for the trip to the dealership. The garage door is up. I head back into the house to put up the wrench and grab the papers for the car. I open the garage door with keys in my pocket. Then Oh My Goodness!!!
The car is rolling backwards halfway across the cove. I take off running as fast as I can to try and stop it. It is heading toward a work van parked at the mouth of the circular part of the cove. I reach the car and grab the driver side handle. As soon as I grab the handle and started to pull, the door opens and the left rear part of the bumper impacts with the left front fender of the work van. The van was an 89 GMC Safari. Needless to say there was more damage to my vehicle than to the van.
The car jumped out of gear and it must have start to roll shortly after I closed the rear driver side door after putting the license plate near the rear window.
I call the cops and took pics of the scene. The cops come out and do the paper work on the accident. They issue me a ticket for "Performance Ability of Breakes." Then to my surprise and the owner of the van, the cops issue him a ticket for parking illegally. His vehicle was facing the wrong direction for the side of the road it was parked on.
Then I called the Insurance Co to get the ball rolling and open up a claim. For now the car is back in the driveway with the tires chalked just in case it pops out of gear again.
Mon, Feb 7th ought to be interesting, I have lots of people to talk to: Lawyer, Ins Claims Agent, Service Mgr at Dealership.. and who knows whatelse.
Wierd, Frustrating and the whole range of emotions. I was just 30 seconds away from getting rid of the car.
As more occurs, I will post here...
I am giddy. Just trying to safe guard by soliciting the good Accord owners in this forum to help a "newbie" out.
Does the timing belt/chain have a peep hole positioned right in the engine compartment? I test drove this, ran the carfax on it, and all was in remarkable condition. I knew a guy who took me for a ride in his back in '91 when it was new. The visibility was and still is what strikes me about these. Course he had an auto and this one's a stick. I'm stoked, although the od reads 210K+. Derfore any perspectives or direction where I can (hopefully) research its maintenance and get on the hoo-ha doing preventative maintenance..... well I thank everyone in advance. I understand this might run as long as my '84 Corolla engined Vanwagon I sold today. Sad to see it go, but this is an encouraging switch, and it was worn out LE. This beauty has apparently all its bells in tune. Again, any precautions is stellar. THX
oh, relocating to Hotland, Phoenix, AZ and need to tow the tiniest uHaul trailer behind it. It has the horses, no? The clutch didn't slip on the test drive, so again -tell me more than I'm crazy. like how to remedy my insanity. I drove a'85 bimmer I paid $100 for to Austin and back to cowtown, Missouri on new years, so I have a history of taking chances. the catch was I had coolant, tools and a Bentley I'd been studying prior. Okay, enough. Thanks again for any responses re: preventative stuff on the '92 EX
I'm also trying to decide between a Japan or U.S. country of manufacturer/assembly. I've always heard that Japan plants put tighter tolerances and higher QA on their cars. Has that work ethic caught up with U.S. union auto workers who are assembling those cars here in the U.S.?
My alloy wheels on my 97 accord are showing corrosion, scuffs and chipped paint on the wheel caps, I would like to replace them with some aftermarket alloys. Asthesitics aside, what should I look for in new alloys in as far as construction (2-piece 3-piece casts etc.).
EBay has tons if Honda alloys for sale by people who are replacing OEM wheels with bigger ones. I bought a set of four OEM's almost new for $242.50 plus shipping.
Or, you could try an outfit like RimPro that will refinish your existing wheels. Spending $1,000 on wheeels is not going to pay off economically.
I'm just trying to figure out how a stick shift can "pop out of gear"??
Kinda sounds like it was in neutral and just maybe the parking brake wasn't applied?
Good luck on your creaking sounds. It sounds like your dealership is working hard but not pinpointing the source?
This past summer temperatures got up to 105 degrees at times in my area. With the AC cranked, it struggled to cool the interior.
It is hard to say if it was much better when the car was new. Luckily the 96-97 accords of this generation use the newer and cheaper R-134a refrigerent. To Accord owners with R134a AC systems, how long did your AC system last (years) before you needed a recharge? What should I expect the cost to be? Is there a way to cheaply determine if it needs a recharge? Can the do-it-yourself person just use a kit?
All A/C systems will slowly lose a bit of freon over time even if there aren't any leaks. After eight years and 140K you are probably due.
BTW, the "newer and cheaper" R-134 will never cool as well as the old R-12 freon did.
Has anyone suffered same problem? If so is it a single valve replacement or will Honda recommend a full change of all 16 valves? Any average costs charged for this? Just inquisitive to know.
Cheers.
I have had a similar experience. My 2005 EX 4 cylinder is supposed to get 25-35 mpg, barely makes 20. The dealer says things like "it's the Winter gas".
Did you ever figure out what was wrong?
Mileage on city and highway, short trips and long, 40 degree or 60 degree weather, has not risen above 20 mpg. Thanks for your thoughts, though.
Is it possible it's the suspension that weakens, causing the ride and body to deteriorate? If so, are there tests the dealer can do to check the suspension, any measurements? I wonder if the suspensions are faulty, or poor quality? Or could it be that the tires loose their ride quality quickly over 15,000 miles? Maybe we all need to upgrade the tires? Or is the body and interior so poorly put together that it creaks, squeaks, and rattles, after so many miles? I wish I could pinpoint the problem, because like many on this board, I am tired of hearing new noises/rattles, and recently I have decided that in general I am tired that I feel like the car is "aging" too quickly!
I am disappointed with Honda, I thought buying an Accord was a no brainer and assured a quiet and reliable car. Well, I think it will be mechanically reliable, it's definitely not as rattle and noise free as I had hoped. Good luck with yours, sounds like the accident just complicated the issue. Is yours by chance a Mexican built Accord? I wonder if that has anything to do with the noise issues ...
Basically, I heard about people who talk of the 1998-2001 tranny problems, but then others who say it only affected 1.6% of the those Honda out there.
I just don't want to be part of that percentage. Supposedly, the problem was corrected in the 2002 models.
I just want to pose the question to the forum if my worries are warranted. I'm a Honda addict and want to stay that way.
This past summer temperatures got up to 105 degrees at times in my area. With the AC cranked, it struggled to cool the interior.
It is hard to say if it was much better when the car was new. Luckily the 96-97 accords of this generation use the newer and cheaper R-134a refrigerent. To Accord owners with R134a AC systems, how long did your AC system last (years) before you needed a recharge? What should I expect the cost to be? Is there a way to cheaply determine if it needs a recharge? Can the do-it-yourself person just use a kit?
The easiest way to check your AC system is to buy a thermometer and check the output air temperature. I think it's supposed to be 50-55 degrees but you will have to consult a dealer or service manual for the recommendation. A place like Pep oys may be able to sell you the thermometer and tell you the temp. Many but not all cars have a "sight glass" that will show bubbles if the system is low on refrigerant.
Recharge service usually runs $35-75 and many garages can perform it as well as the dealer. It's best to let them do it because they have the gages to measure the operating pressures, and if the system is very low might even require the system have a vacuum pulled first before recharging.
I'm alsways surprised many people don't realize how much faster the system will cool the car down if the vent is set to recirculate the air, rather than draw in outside air.
Anyone else experience this problem? What did you do?
Thanks in advance.
They also tightened the emergency brake.
Anyway, the Tech Notes on the fix for the Crackling noises are as follows:
"Customer states, check for crackling/rattling noise from left front corner of the windshield...
Metal Hitting at Shock Tower.
Removed upper dash cover, instrument cluster assembly, Test Drove. Noise Still persisted. Pulled (A) pillar assembly, Left corner headliner, Test Drove. Noise still present. Reinstalled dash, cluster assembly and (A) pillar trim. Installed Chasis ear on inside of dash. No Noise present from inside of car. Installed Chasis Ear(s) on outside of vehicle, Heard noise at Shock Tower. Adjusted Body at shock tower, metal touching together, Test Drove with Service Manager.
No Other Noise present."
I just picked the car up and it was cold this morning, Temps in the low 30s. I test drove with the Service Mgr and no noise was present.
So I have my car back, crackling and noise free. I have a trip this weekend that will doulbe the mileage on the vehicle. And then I will take it back in next Tuesday to get the Bumper cover repaired.
If anything new happens, I will post...
The first thing I'd do is check the inflation of your tires. Likely one of the fronts is low if the pull is that noticeable & the alignment's good
Did you have any success in fixin the noises?
And the hesitation may be bad plugs/wires. Just a hunch.
Does anyone else have a similar steering column rattle/buzzing sound? Any other fixes or experiences? Thanks!
Your tires have 44,000 miles less rubber on them than when they were new. Riding with a somewhat "balder" set of tires can affect your perception of ride comfort.
Both you and slawenda might want to check your tires' air pressure. If you are running higher than the pressures specified on the door frame label you might also be affecting your ride quality.
problems:
1) Tight brakes, the cars brakes have been EXTREMLY tight since the day i have bought it, two sets of pads and a set of rotors in the front and a set of pads and numerous resurfusing on both the front and rear brakes.
2) A/C always gave me problems, and then just stopped working, at 13,000 miles or so, had a bad switch, repair was done in a day, and i was back on the road.
3) The front bumpers paint was messed up, and had to be re-finished (the car sat at the dealership for over a month while i was in their new 03 accord as a rental).
4) numerous fit and finish three or so mlding pieces on the window and a few pieces of molding on the inside of the car have been replaced including the rear speakers (which i think just blew with loud music?) also now i am out of warranty the silver on the shifter is coming off at the cost of $25.00 to repair.
5) now this is where i really got mad, honda gave me a honda care package with $0 deductable as compensation for my problems (since the lemon law in tx is really hard to pursue) recently i was at the dealership to get my radiator flushed, and noticed that the level was low so i mentioned it to them, only to find out that i have a hose that is leaking, not only is the part not in, it is been three weeks and the part is still not in stock, also honda care does not cover it. What does it cover if it does not cover the radiator hose?
Sorry for such a long post, but i am REALLY aggitated with this matter, and honda just doenst care about me as a customer, my family has owned like 6 hondas in the past and this is the only one with so many problems. I even mentioned that rather then replace my car, that if they could cover my trade to the point where i would not be upsidedown (2000$ which is not alot considering i am a long term customer who LOVES the honda product) i would be MORE then willing to get into another honda product.
please reply and let me know if someone else is having these same problems.
thanks in advance
Based upon your post, it would seem that Honda is not your problem so much as your dealership is the problem.
No, in the 14,000 miles that I've driven my 2004 Accord Coupe, I've not experienced ANY of the concerns that you've described.
1) Your term "tight brakes" is somewhat confusing. It's possible that your brake calipers may not be releasing properly when you remove your foot from the pedal. That could cause premature wear on pads and rotors. Your dealer, or preferably another shop, should check the caliper action.
2) The new A/C switch sounds like it resolved your concerns quickly and completely.
3) No body shop would take more than a day to refinish a bumper.
4) If they've replaced those interior parts, you should now be satisfied. Are you?
5) Since Honda Care is just an extended warranty, it may not cover normal wear & tear components such as hoses. Your Honda Care contract should have a list of covered and non-covered components. Have you read it? In any case, such hoses would be available within an hour anywhere in the United States.
I'd take my car to another repair shop. Yours sounds totally incompetent. Or, they are trying to discourage you from coming back.