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Dealer recommends: pulling a power fuse when not regularly driving vehicle (one service writer advised disconnecting the battery cable, tech corrected her on that, bad idea). No solution to problem. Something else is wrong.
Charged battery twice for a total of 8 hours, still shows battery needs charge on sight glass window (top of battery).
Dealer is unaware of this problem.
I'd make sure that I mentioned the advice you received from your local dealer (about either pulling a fuse or disconnecting the battery). That's pretty much completely unacceptable in my book.
How can this be??? This power outlet isn't wired so that it is HOT?
This does not make sense....every car I have owned operates as the power Outlet being HOT.
How does one charge a cell phone when the car isnt ON.....oh I guess we are to leave the car running to charge a phone.....
Maybe someone else can share how to get around this...Also how much does one have to spend with Honda to get Heated exterior mirrors?
Very poor decision not to have heated mirrors.
My old Buick had them and worked....
I own a 2000 Accord V6, but have never experienced a starting problem. That car always starts immediately on the first try.
I am primarily concerned about engine and starter wear and plan to have the Honda service people look at the car.
Has anyone else experienced a similar starting problem with a 2004 V6? If so, has the problem been resolved and what repair was required to fix the problem?
Auburn63 - do you have any advice?
Well while it was at Honda, Carmax asked them to look at the rattle. Well Honda said they could not hear it and have had NO other complaints of rattles. Could this be true? I live in Birmingham AL and we only have 2 Honda dealerships and they are not even close. If you live anywhere in Metro Birmingham you probably would take your car to this dealership. I know they have had this issue before....
In any case Carmax still has the car (Day 8) and has insulated and put foam everywhere they can think of. They did tell us that when a passenger is in the back seat the rattle does not occur. Anyone heard of this before? Carmax has been great and luckily we have a loaner to drive but I can't imagine why Honda won't help them resolve this issue.
From what I can tell this Honda dealership has been downright rude to Carmax and despite Carmax making an appointment with them they put the car off for 3 extra days saying they were too busy.
Does your car have leather seats? If so, the leather in the back seat likely does not get used much and may need some moisture treatment. Your body oil typically provides some moisture to the leather, so the less used back seats dry out faster. A local leather furniture distributer told me a product named "Leather Vital" is very good for stiff car leather. You can locate the product via Google. Good luck!
Yes, I tend to keep my cars well past 100k miles. My brother-in-law has a '94 accord with nearly 200k miles on the ticker; it's an automatic to boot--and has never given him a day's trouble. The thoughts of a Honda NOT being reliable just doesn't seem right.
what's going on? please advise
After a couple of visits to the dealer, I got it fixed. They finally heard the noise and decided it was "left upper bulk head hitting strut tower." The repair was to "increase the gap between bulk head and tower."
I didn't hear the noise, but I just picked it up an hour ago. Hopefully, they have fixed it.
I hope this helps everyone else.
The rattles and the fixes:
1) driver door -- clunky rattle on moderately rough roads; remove panel, place adhesive felt where wiring bundle rattled against door sheet metal.
2) passenger door -- buzzing noise (BUZZ BUZZ BUZZ) vanished with window slightly down, all kinds of speeds and surfaces; remove panel and, after much trial and error, determine that portion of window track was loosely connected to door -- install nylon washer and re-tighten.
3) glove compartment door -- just a plain rattle; a few small bits of felt.
4) passenger door rattle, part two -- loose tinkling rattle; took car to dealer for new chrome strip along outside top of door/base of window.
5) inner dash rattle -- just plain rattle, but only when turning to the right on a rough road, generally with a bit of an incline; remove glove compartment and identify a relay that was able to slightly move in its bracket until a little duct tape was applied.
The lessons:
Some of these were HARD to figure out (# 2 and # 5); all were EASY to fix, once identified (maybe with the exception of #4, which the dealer happily fixed).
While poking in all these places, nothing seemed obviously of cheap or inferior quality (unlike what I have seen hidden in my Forester), and yet a new car shouldn't rattle. So, I'm not sure if I learned anything about the overall build quality of the car one way or the other.
Finally, I am certain that my type A personality was extraordinarily provoked by these rattles. Is that my issue or the car's? I don't know. I was never going to be able to convince a dealer to mess with several of these, in my opinion, and I didn't even want to waste the time trying. If type A's buy Accords (yep), and if Accords are generally thought of as quiet and reliable, then perhaps it's no suprise that a fair number of folks on these boards complain of rattles.
What kept me at it as long as it took was the fact that I love the way the car drives, but I hated the rattles.
If I can de-rattle the car, you can too. The question I'm still pondering is why can't Honda?
Out.
It is to bad Honda hasn’t figured out all of this by now. The rattle issues have been springing up in the 7th gen Accord since it was released back in late 02 and is very Un-Honda like given the previous generations rattle free experiences (tranny issues not withstanding).
I am still contemplating an 05 Accord but this rattle issue for an automobile already in its third year since redesign has shied me away more then once. I just hope they don’t keep releasing TSB’s or having the consumer fix their own given Accord sales are already falling below that of last year which was again below that of the year prior
Anyway, I wanted to thank you for your post as it does appear that there is hope for those that are experiencing rattles today and those that may experience them in the future with a bit of reverse engineering. It is just strange that a supposed HQ $19,000 - $27,000 automobile would rattle is all?
Good Luck and thank you.
Wayne R. Gerdes
Shy away from this so-called 7th generation Accords -- they're low quality cars.
ramida
It has to be remembered these are "problems" boards. They attract the people with problems.
In a perfect world, an Accord should have any kind of a rattle and most do not.
However, very honestly, one Accord Coupe V6 EX 2003 I bought for my son had some minor rattling noise but I brought it right back to the dealership during the 36K miles/ 3 years warranty and they fixed it immediately with no charge.
Now, my Accord Hybrid with 255 HP runs like a King on the roads with extremely flamboyant "rattling boom, bang...noises" (...of rock, country, blue, AM, FM, XM, CD, etc). One early morning on the way to work, I suddenly did hear some rattling noises in the front passenger area. I was deadly nervous and was about to bring up that serious issue to the attention of our contributors in our forum of "Accord's Silly Problems and Creative Solutions". Luckily, I finally found out that "rattling noise" came from my vibrating hard plastic box of cookies that I brought to work for my quick breakfast. I almost died instantly while "reigning on my fast HAH mobile throne".
There was a definitive rattle coming from the windshield area. Immediately I tried to recall every post I'd read here regarding rattles. After a few more miles and getting a little bit pissed off, I realized that I'd left the driver's side visor unfastened. The plastic was bumping against the clip. I clipped the thing into place and laughed to myself about it. The car has not yet reached 1000 miles, but I had to relay this story. I couldn't be more pleased with the vehicle. It is as tight as a drum.
When out to dinner tonight with the wife and kids and turned on the radio. I selected the XM and it did not come on but displayed a "loading" message. Wasn't sure what that meant so I selected the FM to make sure the radio was working and it did. Selected the XM again and got the same "loading" display. My wife said she though it was because the month was up for the free XM and I said that must be it (even though it worked this morning - When I got home I looked at the sticker price that I kept and said XM is free for 3 months).
After coming home from the restaurant I turned the radio on and selected the XM and it worked fine.
Has this happened to anyone else and does anyone have any idea why this happened?
Thanks.
thanks in advance for your inputs!
Coolant flushes are much more common.
Maybe someone else can add something?
When I turned on the radio, the XM showed "Loading" with no sound for almost an hour and I switched to much inferior FM radio that worked fine.
Later, I tried the XM and it worked flawlessly and has been working every time I've used it since.
After my "Loading" experience, I called XM's 800 phone number and they said something about repositioning satellites or some such--hard to know what the problem was.
My guess is that it was a relatively brief anomaly and nothing is wrong with our radios.........Richard
Shy away from this so-called 7th generation Accords -- they're low quality cars.
------------------------------------------
Nonsense. Your car might be a lemon and that's unfortunate if the dealer can't fix the problems you're having.
Most current Accords are as good or better than anything offered by competitors.
Go buy a Ford and you'll wish you had your Honda back......Richard
Most people with engines nearing 190,000 miles of use would be extremely happy to add a quart of oil after only 2,000 miles. Its a damn sight cheaper that using MMO or other highly advertised "snake oil" of dubious value.
Some modern engines use that much oil when new.
Could it be a half shaft? A wheel bearing? If a bearing, then it shouldn't make any difference whether there is load on it or not.
Any ideas????
Also, I used to drive a LX 92 (now I gave it to my Dad and it still runs). Immediately after a major tune up years ago, the engine sounded like NEW, so smooth, so quiet. I am honest. All the other joints, shocks, doors...of that LX 92 worn out but the engine was still in pretty much good shape. It was amazing.
Now, my other question is my brother in law advised me I should change the "transmission oil filter" when I change transmission oil too. Is it correct? I usually change the (automatic) transmision oil every year or 20 miles or less. However, probably changing the transmission oil is difficult and time-consuming so my mechanic did not change it. He was also reluctant to change the oil brake as it took so long time for him. But I did change my (brake) master cylinder on my LX 92 Accord and its brake worked fine again at 220K miles. Now that LX 92 is "history" but my Dad still drives it around. LOL.
All my cars are now Honda including my brand-new Accord hybrid 2005 at less than 1K miles, with a voice activated Navi. system that runs so fast as a state-of-the-art automobile. It "jumps" and runs fast as a Mustang of 300+ HP. I love it. May be next year or sooner I will sell this Accord 95 of 200K miles to buy another Accord Hybrid. It should be a very good and justified reason (or a good make-up reason) to my wife that I should buy another new Honda and...(and incurring more auto loans...). LOL.
Thank you very much guys for your valuable advices.
Thanks
The seat belt on the drivers side doesnt retract well anymore.
Often the belt gets caught in the door when I leave the car.
Perhaps this is normal wear and tear on the seat belt mechanism after so many miles. Just wondering if anyone has a similar problem and if anyone tried to repair this, roughly how much should it cost?
Thanks
It would be difficult to use a small bottle of touchup paint to repair
this. Any techniques/tips to repair this properly?
Thanks
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/techman41973/detail?.dir=/b3c1&- .dnm=a5c3.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/techman41973/detail?.dir=/b3c1&- .dnm=c98a.jpg&.src=ph
Don't forget to flush the radiator, P/S fluid and tranny fluid as recommended in the owner's manual.
My 89LXi (16+yrs/204k miles) still has the
original radiator and P/S pump. The original engine and tranny have not burnt any oil at all.
I'm afraid its body will be gone/rusted before the engine/tranny goes.
Honda Accord LX is a great car and very reliable. Unfortunately I had a very bad experience with my previous 2003 Honda Accord LX, and perhaps I was very very unlucky. I bought this LX in May 2003 and asked the dealer to install an alarm system on it. Both the car and the alarm system had been running great. Last April (2004), all of sudden, the alarm went off and did not stop, the parking lights kept flashing after I pressed the LOCK button on my key, supposedly the alarm sounded only once, and the parking light flashed once. I had to press the UNLOCK button and locked the car manually. I brought the car back to the dealer several times and the dealer changed new parts (twice), charged the battery (once) and unplugged and plugged the alarm system. Finally I returned the car back to the dealer and got my money back. I guess that I was really unlucky. Since then, I have fear about installing any electrical accessories on new cars. I assume that a large number of people have installed alarm systems on their Accord, well
No more oil refill since then.
Your mechanic is right about the tranny oil filter. You can't replace the filter w/out deassemble the unit. Just drain and fill the tranny. That's what I have been doing for my 89LXi. The tranny is original with 204K miles and counting.
That's how I clean & protect all cars' my seat belts.
The retraction is much better after I clean it.