I have a 2000 Accord Coupe that I recently changed the lowbeam headlight on. Today when I started the car, the headlights would not come on. I checked the bulbs and they have not blown from what I can see. I also looked in the fuse box under the hood, and both the right and left fuse look to be intact. Am I checking in the wrong place, or is there another fuse that I should be looking at? Pls help. It will be dark in 2 hours and I need to get this fixed. Thanks
Well how can I say it? They have it logged in the books, in otherwords they do not admit to a problem & continue to stonewall me. But if they get enough complaints I am positive they would issue a TSB. Not a recall since it is not a safey issue. But how do they know it's not safety? To me it sounds like at a high rate of speed the windshield could pop out. I guess I'll find out when I take a trip over 100 miles at a high rate of speed for an extended amount of time. I am reluctant because it does not sound safe. Good luck to all of us who pursue this problem.
Is it true that we should replace replace the Timing Belt,Bearing Shaft belt,crank seal,cam seal,water pump,balance seal and Tensioner for every 60,000 Miles.
I bought an '04 Accord EX-L (4cyl Auto) back in October and have generally been pretty happy with it. It does have a couple of little squeaks and buzzes and starting was pretty hard when the temp hit -20C here recently.
But what I want to ask about is the windshield defogger. It seems that as long as the heat is on and the fan blowing there's always some (warm) air coming out of the windshield vents even when the controls are set to feet only. The problem with this is that it causes salt spray at the bottom of the windshied to dry up quickly whereas the rest of the windshield can be wiped clean just with the road spray, so I end up using a lot of windshield washer fluid. Are all the new Accords like this? My last car did this too, but it was a cheap-[non-permissible content removed] '96 Sentra. It's a fairly minor problem, but annoying - it should shut off the air flow to the defogger completely IMO.
Everything I've read about warm up says that the best way to warm up a cold car is to drive it immediately after starting without waiting for the car to warm up at all.
Of course, if you start the car with the heater running and get in later, the car will be more comfortable, but you'll be wasting gas without helping the car at all.
Note that in very cold weather the whole car is cold--not just the engine. All moving parts will warm up only when the car is driven.
Just start your car and drive slowly for the first mile or 2 and your car will love you.....Richard
It is correct. Just start the engine and let it run for 5 or 10 seconds and drive it slowly (less than 40 MPH) in the first 1 or 2 miles. The newer engine design does not require warming up the engine too long at idle.
Warm up your vehicle. The oil needs to circulate to all the moving parts. Don't worry about the environment. All transmissions, (manual & automatic), will shift easier when the engine is warm, and some of that heat will find its way to the transmission case to warm the trans oil. This is especially true with an automatic transmission that has a torque converter. The spinning trans fluid generates heat in the transmission. Cold fluid moves slowly. Transmissions are hydraulic units that depend on instantaneous responses to the opening and closing of valves for the application of clutches and bands to hold drive components, which gives your car the various gear ratios. Slow moving hydraulic fluid causes a slow application of bands and clutches, this in turn could cause some slippage in the unit during the "shifting process"! On the engine side of the issue, when you crank the engine on a cold winter morning the speed of the starter is slower than when you crank the same engine on a warm summer morning. The reason is that: 1.) The engine oil is much thicker in the crankcase, and the starter has to turn the engine against that oil, --- and ---- 2.) The battery is not as efficient as in the warm weather. I always warm up my vehicles. 1.) I want the vehicle up to normal operating temperature before I put a load on the components. --- 2.) I like to get into a warm vehicle on cold mornings. Sometimes durning the winter my wife and I go down to the river with some goodies, a good book and a large cup of flavored coffee. We read a book, sip the coffee and eat the goodies with the engine running so that we can have some heat in the vehicle. A couple of hours later we leave. Our vehicles run just fine. Just change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles and you are "ok". Life is TOO short so enjoy your vehicle. If you want to warm it up, that is "ok". ---Just an opinion of a retired Auto Shop / Computer Aided Drafting / Industrial Arts Teacher----Greg
Hi everyone, I don't mean to be biased but I heard that the accrods made in Ohio are not as good as the ones they used to make in Japan. Is this true? Any comments?
Well, it depends on how cold it gets to. When I was a poor graduate student in Boston 20 years, I had an old car that leaked engine oil. So, I had to add new oil frequently. I still remember that, on a cold morning when it was -20 degree outside (with the wind-chill factor), the oil wouldn't come out of the bottle when I tried to pour some into the engine. In that case, the oil inside the engine is not going to provide any lubrication. So, it will be wise to warm up the engine before you drive. Of course, different cars use different oil with different temperature range. You can find out the temperature range for your car in the user's manual. In general, unless it's extremely cold outside, it's OK to start driving right away at a slow speed (<30mph) for the first mile or two. But, when it is extremely cold, it's better to wait a couple of minutes for the engine to warm up.
I own a 04 Accord EX 4cyl sedan that was assembled in Japan. Having heard the rumors that the foreign Honda's had better quality than the domestic ones, I was fairly happy when I noticed that the car I was about to buy had a J-vin#.
After 11+ months and 22k miles on the odometer, I have a couple of the rattles/buzzes/creaks that others here have mentioned (driver's window & sunroof/headliner). I have not had any rotor warping problems that others had, and I live in Vegas where the temps hit 117 in the summer. If I can't warp a rotor in 22k miles of traffic here, I don't see how some warp them in 3k miles elsewhere.
I have to say I was slightly disappointed when my rattles started, thinking Japanese built was better. However, based upon my current experience, I wouldn't put a lot of thought into where your Accord was assembled. Odds are the build quality will be the same, and the new Accord is still a high-value, high-tech, well-engineered car.
A "Check Engine Light" indicates a trouble-code stored in the On-Board Diagnostics computer. AutoZone has the industry-standard OBD terminal that can download the code from your car's computer for FREE. They can then look up what the error code means for your car and perhaps sell you a part (AutoZone doesn't offer repair services).
Discount Auto Parts and Advanced Auto Parts may offer this free service as well. How dealerships and service shops get away with charging $80-100 just to pull the trouble code is beyond me.
Whatever you do, get the trouble code first to identify the problem. Then you can worry about which parts to service or replace.
There is cold, and COLD. Sometimes (not too often in Boston proper, since the ocean is a giant heat reservoir) it is so cold that a car will not warm up at idle - especially if the heat is on. The advantage of warming up the engine longer is mediated by the additional combustion by-products introduced into the cold engine.
It takes some work to get it warmed up. Most engineers (and manufacturers) recommend a very brief warmup of the engine - 30 seconds or so - followed by driving gently. If you live in Boston the later will not be a problem as you will have plenty o traffic lights to sit at.
You have to warm up every moving contact in the car.
I have an accord 2001. The problem I am having now is that I can`t seem to start up the engine if the car has been sitting for more than 8 hours. I am on my third battery now.
Two days back, I went for service and told them about the problem. They said that they cant find the problem and than the draw of current is normal. I also did ask to check for any grounding problem since I was told that that may be the cause, but they said that they have found nothing. All they did was to replace the battery which is only 2 months old.
I did some troubleshooting myself. I removed my aftermarket Cd changer, subwoofer but I am still having the problem. I am really stumped right now. This is the only problem this car has had so far even after almost 100K. I even have to run the engine just to avoid the draining of battery which sometimes runs for 30 to 1 hour. I can't keep this any longer. I need some advice. Obviously, my service center can't help me at the moment.
Hello, twice now Ive blown my oem Michelin 205/60R16 MXV4 91V S8's. Just bad luck with pot holes on my part. Anyway...it seems the 3 Honda dealers in the area do not stock these tires. Ive been to 2 of them..both just have the MXV4 Plus 94 H as replacements for the car. Now as much as Id like to be going the 149mph for the V rated tire probably isnt going to happen. The 130mph for the H rated tire does seem quite adequate as well. And the Plus model has a 94 load rating..good for 1477 lbs. The S8's are lower at 91 for 1356lbs. So long story short..is it ok to have the Plus version on the car? Or does it really need a V rated tired. I dont wanna start tire brand debate..just curious of the load and speed ratings and what is best for the car and what the differences might be. Actually seems that with the Plus H rated 94's you have an adequate speed rating and an even better load rating.
I bought a 05 EX V6 in December and have been disappointed as well with my city mileage. It has been averaging 15-17 mpg. The sticker estimates 21 city and 30 highway. I started second guessing my decision to buy a 6cy as opposed to a 4cy but your post makes me believe it wouldn't have mattered. I wonder what kind of mpg people with 4cy manual transmissions are getting ?
Anyone care to chime in ?
BTW I still have my 1995 Prelude with manual tranny and it gets 25mpg around town.
I am with you I have now owned two accords 92 LX & 05 EXL it was a must have "J" vin #. Truly there must be something to it. Needless to say I am quite disappointed with the creaking in visor area drivers side. Especially since today is round two for Pasadena Honda to fix the creaking. If felt or padding does fix it I will be inclined to believe it is the frame of the car and it needs re-welding IMO. Other that that complaint there are none.
Not that this is a solution to finding what is draining your battery....but how about just disconnecting the battery when you are going to have to leave it. This would be easier than having to run the car every few hours or so. You could easily even rig up a switch (with a large inline fuse) to accomplish this.
I have a 99 Honda Accord EX V-6 automatic with 55K miles on it. Recently I noticed the acceleration is kind of rough (couple of small jerks) upto 20 mile speed and normal after that. Same happens in hot or cold condition. Dealer suggested transmission flush and the condition remained same after flush. Dealer suggests transmission replacement at 50/50 split.
I am aware of warranty extension bulletin 02-062 for Accord 2000 and later models. Like to know if any of you was able to negotiate your 99 model covered(beyond 3 yr/36000 mi) under this extension. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.
240 horses is gonna overcome any set of all-season radials. I put Blizzak WS-50s on the front of my 2004 EX-V6 6spd. and it has great snow traction so long as I don't wonk on the gas too hard. The tire dealer will try to sell you four (bad handling, traction on only one end, blah blah blah). I heard him out and said "thanks, I appreciate your advice - now put two on the front" as I have for every Front Wheel Drive car I've ever owned. I've used Blizzak WS-50s on a '99 Maxima GXE and 2002 Chevy Venture Minivan (fronts only on both) and they work great.
That would explain why your engine was low on coolant. Since your car's timing belt has 110K miles on it, it's time to have the timing belt job (all belts, water pump, and seals) done.
My '05 EX-V6 Coupe with automatic trans. has exhibited some strange behavior. The problem is intermittent and my dealer can't seem to duplicate or solve it. The car has less than 1,500 miles. When accelerating from a stop or to pass the trans. sometimes fails to shift to the next gear. It will downshift and accelerate then fail to shift up and before you know it the rpm is quite high (5,000 plus at one point). This has only happened a few times but it isn't right and they don't have an answer. Any other owners experience a similar problem?
It might be the starter? We had the same problem and left it where we have it serviced overnight so they could check it in the morning. You might just replace the starter yourself if you can and want? If you get anything over 100K on one you have got your use out of it.
I am trying to locate the VSS on a 98 Accord 5 speed. I understand it is on the transaxle but I cannot see it from above or below. Any help would be appreciated
I heard him out and said "thanks, I appreciate your advice - now put two on the front" as I have for every Front Wheel Drive car I've ever owned. I've used Blizzak WS-50s on a '99 Maxima GXE and 2002 Chevy Venture Minivan (fronts only on both) and they work great.
Glad that it has worked for you so far but this is really bad advice.
I used to rally and ice race a VW Scirocco. I had a chance to drive it with only two dedicated snows in an ice storm (while waiting for the other two to come in) and the rear end would break away abruptly and at a much lower speed than the front end. This would also occur while turning during braking.
If you drive enough to make buying two snow tires worthwhile, buying four will cost you little more over the life of the car. This is especially true for a tire like the Blizzak WS50 that has a special tread compound for only half the tread depth. The Nokians use the same tread compound all the way through and are probably a better value but aren't sold mail-order.
I travel on business regularly throughout Northern New England on all sorts of road conditions. The Nokian Hakka RSi's are a big improvement for snow and ice traction on the Honda.
Your experience notwithstanding, every car manufacturer, tire manufacturer, or pundit (like Click and Clack) suggest, putting two snows on the front of a FWD car is not safe and won't save you much money if you're keeping the car more than two seasons and drive a fair amount. Other drivers should seek this advice before buying only two.
I bought an '05 LX sedan w/AT and drove it for 1,700 miles getting about 27mpg in mixed city/highway driving. I then traded it for an '05 LX-V6 sedan which is getting 25mpg in the exact same driving. I believe this is typical.
The 2mpg difference is well worth it to me and I'm very happy with my V6. I'm sure that many of us would like to know why a handful of posters on various forums (Camrys too) are getting such poor fuel economy with I4's and V6's both. It seems to me that the emissions equipment would balk at that kind of fuel delivery, no?
Please see #9473. You aren't alone with this problem. Based on the online research about honda V6 trans problems, it looks your car has trans problem. Especially if you feel the shifting is not smooth when it shifts from gear 1 to 2(under about 20 mph speeds). You will get a free trans. replacement when you're able to duplicate the problem, under warranty, but the question is how good the replacement is going to be?
If the water pump is leaking, you might as well replace the timing belt too since that's what drives it. But if you replace the timing belt, you might as well replace all the seals too since if they start leaking, you would have to remove the timing belt to get to them. That's why they recommend al those parts.
I have a 2004 Honda Accord that's at about 3200 miles. What's the recommended mileage on routine oil changes. I've heard anywhere from 3000-5000, but I also recall the dealer mentioning something about waiting even longer for your FIRST oil change. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
Read your owner's manual. First oil change to be after one year or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first. There is a more frequent schedule for cars that are driven under severe conditions.
Some people are more comfortable changing oil more frequently, but they didn't build and test the car, so Honda should be the the best source for info.
Also, Honda recommends 5-20 oil, and there's a special "crush washer" that should be replaced so the oil drain plug will seal properly without over-tightening.
Honda dealers are likely to have oil change specials that are competitive with Jiffy Lube, etc., and if you go to the dealer, you're more likely to have the oil change done properly--at least I hope so, because that's what I'm doing.
After one year, my '04 EX-L had only 3,000 miles on it, but I had the oil changed because the car was one year old.......Richard
Read the owner's manual. After you have had a GREAT laugh about 5,000 and 10,000 mile oil changes, remember that the same engineers who decided on these oil and filter change intervals, also designed the "problem v6 automatic transmission". Put you vehicle on a schedule of 3,000 mile oil and filter changes. We have a 2003 Accord that is 23 months old with 44,000 miles on the clock. It has received oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles by the selling dealer since it was new. When I pull the dip stick just before an oil and filter change, the oil is still clean. The engine never uses any oil, between oil and filter changes, and the 4 cylinder engine is very smooth, powerful and quiet. Oil and filters are cheap, engines are expensive, but you can make you own decisions on this subject. Remember the owner's manual is only listing the MINIMUM maintenance that is required for the vehicle. In addition to frequent oil and filter changes, I also change the automatic trans fluid frequently, (at least every 20,000 miles or sooner). If you read the owner's manual dealing with fuel octane, it states that you are to use 86 or higher octane. It DOES NOT state that you CANNOT use a higher octane of fuel in a Honda engine, (4 or 6). Here again it is talking about a MINIMUM.
I follow the severe usage guideline, even though my wife's car is probably one of the few that actually fit the normal usage parameters. Synthetic oil is all that I will use. You're right - oil and filters are cheap, and sythetic oil isn't that much more pricey, if you take the long view.
But then again...Our 4 cylinder manual transmissioned Accord just got it's first change at 9600. Oil looked fine. Honda madei it's reputation on 4 cylinder engines and manual transmissions so the "problem V6's" don't apply here. It won't see the dealership again til 18,500 or so. Just like my 03 SI which had just turned 28,000 and just rec it's 3rd oil change in 18 months. Or our 04 Ody which is changed at every 7000 miles since it's recommended at 7500.
Sure I could change them more often. Then I would start changing tires before the wear marks. I would change the wipers before they start streaking or chattering, or maybe change the transmisiion fluid along with the oil. Why not??? Tranny fluid IS cheaper than a new tranny. Even in a manual.
Brought my 2003 Accord LX 5-Speed Manual to the dealer's service center this morning. My complaint was that if you are running at least on the 3rd gear on an even or downward slope, ease off the gas pedal completely (say to attempt to brake), but then decided to press on the gas pedal again (because you didn't need to brake afterall), you get this jerky (horsey) acceleration due to a combination of engine braking and the surge to move forward as the gas pedal is pressed. The technician and his manager who both test drove my car said that the jerky acceleration is an inherent characteristic of these newer Accord models! Me not being convinced, I challenged them to test drive another Accord (03-05 models) and see it exhibits the same jerky acceleration characteristic. They agreed and with the help of my assigned service advisor (really nice and beautiful lady), we got a 2005 Accord EX 5-sp manual. To my dismay (but good relief), the EX exhibited the same jerky acceleration as I described above!!!!
To replicate the problem, drive normally up to the 3rd or 4th gear, release your foot from the gas pedal, then press the gas pedal again. Jerky surge is what you get!
Diagnosis -- normal!
The Honda engineers responsible for this design flaw are really "jerks". :-) I told the Honda service guys, this will be my first and last Honda car!
>4 cylinder manual transmissioned Accord just got it's first change at 9600
I glad I won't be buying your used cars with all the wear in the engines when you trade them.
Unless you are an outside salesperson who drives highway and trip driving, your oil doesn't last that long. And especially if any short trip 1-2 mile drives are involved.
The nearest anything to our house is about 5 miles away. And we never go to that anything. Never had an oil related problem in 20 years of driving. Even in my 82 Toyota Tercel that ran to 200k on 7500 mile oil changes per the manual. Not to mention the other 30 or so cars I've owned.
Comments
Thanks a lot for the information. Will talk with the dealer at the next service.
But what I want to ask about is the windshield defogger. It seems that as long as the heat is on and the fan blowing there's always some (warm) air coming out of the windshield vents even when the controls are set to feet only. The problem with this is that it causes salt spray at the bottom of the windshied to dry up quickly whereas the rest of the windshield can be wiped clean just with the road spray, so I end up using a lot of windshield washer fluid. Are all the new Accords like this? My last car did this too, but it was a cheap-[non-permissible content removed] '96 Sentra. It's a fairly minor problem, but annoying - it should shut off the air flow to the defogger completely IMO.
On the cars I have owned with leather, they RARELY got anything done to them except maybe wiping them down with a damp cloth.
If I happened to remember, I might use Lexol on them maybe once a year.
Never had a problem.
I have Accord '04 EX-V6. Now in this chilly
winters of Boston, I sometimes wonder if I still
have to warm up the engine in the morning before
I start driving the car to work. And how long ? I
want to know if latest improvements in Honda
engine design has taken care of this problem.
I am not sure if this is the right forum to post
this message ? May be people can redirect me to
other forum.
Thanks in advance.
Of course, if you start the car with the heater running and get in later, the car will be more comfortable, but you'll be wasting gas without helping the car at all.
Note that in very cold weather the whole car is cold--not just the engine. All moving parts will warm up only when the car is driven.
Just start your car and drive slowly for the first mile or 2 and your car will love you.....Richard
After 11+ months and 22k miles on the odometer, I have a couple of the rattles/buzzes/creaks that others here have mentioned (driver's window & sunroof/headliner). I have not had any rotor warping problems that others had, and I live in Vegas where the temps hit 117 in the summer. If I can't warp a rotor in 22k miles of traffic here, I don't see how some warp them in 3k miles elsewhere.
I have to say I was slightly disappointed when my rattles started, thinking Japanese built was better. However, based upon my current experience, I wouldn't put a lot of thought into where your Accord was assembled. Odds are the build quality will be the same, and the new Accord is still a high-value, high-tech, well-engineered car.
What year your car?
My car is 2000 Honda Accord. The dealer said it is out of warranbty. Is it right? I have to repair it immediatly?
Thanks.
Discount Auto Parts and Advanced Auto Parts may offer this free service as well. How dealerships and service shops get away with charging $80-100 just to pull the trouble code is beyond me.
Whatever you do, get the trouble code first to identify the problem. Then you can worry about which parts to service or replace.
winters of Boston, I sometimes wonder if I still
have to warm up the engine in the morning before
I start driving the car to work. And how long ? I
want to know if latest improvements in Honda
engine design has taken care of this problem.
There is cold, and COLD. Sometimes (not too often in Boston proper, since the ocean is a giant heat reservoir) it is so cold that a car will not warm up at idle - especially if the heat is on. The advantage of warming up the engine longer is mediated by the additional combustion by-products introduced into the cold engine.
It takes some work to get it warmed up. Most engineers (and manufacturers) recommend a very brief warmup of the engine - 30 seconds or so - followed by driving gently. If you live in Boston the later will not be a problem as you will have plenty o traffic lights to sit at.
You have to warm up every moving contact in the car.
Two days back, I went for service and told them about the problem. They said that they cant find the problem and than the draw of current is normal. I also did ask to check for any grounding problem since I was told that that may be the cause, but they said that they have found nothing. All they did was to replace the battery which is only 2 months old.
I did some troubleshooting myself. I removed my aftermarket Cd changer, subwoofer but I am still having the problem. I am really stumped right now. This is the only problem this car has had so far even after almost 100K. I even have to run the engine just to avoid the draining of battery which sometimes runs for 30 to 1 hour. I can't keep this any longer. I need some advice. Obviously, my service center can't help me at the moment.
Please help.
Anyone care to chime in ?
BTW I still have my 1995 Prelude with manual tranny and it gets 25mpg around town.
Good luck tracking your problem!
I am aware of warranty extension bulletin 02-062 for Accord 2000 and later models. Like to know if any of you was able to negotiate your 99 model covered(beyond 3 yr/36000 mi) under this extension. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.
-FS
They ARE a bit pricey however....
I would go to Honda for this service.
seat heater on before the car warms up. Works fine.
Glad that it has worked for you so far but this is really bad advice.
I used to rally and ice race a VW Scirocco. I had a chance to drive it with only two dedicated snows in an ice storm (while waiting for the other two to come in) and the rear end would break away abruptly and at a much lower speed than the front end. This would also occur while turning during braking.
If you drive enough to make buying two snow tires worthwhile, buying four will cost you little more over the life of the car. This is especially true for a tire like the Blizzak WS50 that has a special tread compound for only half the tread depth. The Nokians use the same tread compound all the way through and are probably a better value but aren't sold mail-order.
I travel on business regularly throughout Northern New England on all sorts of road conditions. The Nokian Hakka RSi's are a big improvement for snow and ice traction on the Honda.
Your experience notwithstanding, every car manufacturer, tire manufacturer, or pundit (like Click and Clack) suggest, putting two snows on the front of a FWD car is not safe and won't save you much money if you're keeping the car more than two seasons and drive a fair amount. Other drivers should seek this advice before buying only two.
The 2mpg difference is well worth it to me and I'm very happy with my V6. I'm sure that many of us would like to know why a handful of posters on various forums (Camrys too) are getting such poor fuel economy with I4's and V6's both. It seems to me that the emissions equipment would balk at that kind of fuel delivery, no?
Some people are more comfortable changing oil more frequently, but they didn't build and test the car, so Honda should be the the best source for info.
Also, Honda recommends 5-20 oil, and there's a special "crush washer" that should be replaced so the oil drain plug will seal properly without over-tightening.
Honda dealers are likely to have oil change specials that are competitive with Jiffy Lube, etc., and if you go to the dealer, you're more likely to have the oil change done properly--at least I hope so, because that's what I'm doing.
After one year, my '04 EX-L had only 3,000 miles on it, but I had the oil changed because the car was one year old.......Richard
Sure I could change them more often. Then I would start changing tires before the wear marks. I would change the wipers before they start streaking or chattering, or maybe change the transmisiion fluid along with the oil. Why not??? Tranny fluid IS cheaper than a new tranny. Even in a manual.
To replicate the problem, drive normally up to the 3rd or 4th gear, release your foot from the gas pedal, then press the gas pedal again. Jerky surge is what you get!
Diagnosis -- normal!
The Honda engineers responsible for this design flaw are really "jerks". :-) I told the Honda service guys, this will be my first and last Honda car!
Very disappointed, ramida
I glad I won't be buying your used cars with all the wear in the engines when you trade them.
Unless you are an outside salesperson who drives highway and trip driving, your oil doesn't last that long. And especially if any short trip 1-2 mile drives are involved.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,