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Has anybody seen this before? I haven't gone to the dealer yet because I'm afraid he's going to tell me that it's out of warranty. I was wondering if this is a safety issue because the door locks cannot even be pulled up by hand. If someone were in the back seat, they would be stuck inside the car until it warmed up. Although that scenario is unlikely, since the problem only occurs when the car hasn't been driven recently, still I wonder if this can be considered a safety issue. Would Honda cover this after the 36,000 warranty is up?
Thanks,
Rich
Then I need to retract my statement. What kind of drive to work do the cars get? If I remember, you're in Atlanta and you really don't have winter -- just super hot in summer traffic. You're more likely to detriorate the oil in hot summer traffic than with cool weather condensation.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Any clues as to what the problem is, so that I know what to expect before going to the dealer?
Thanks
After much headscratching it turn out the problem was a stiff trunk latch!!
When trying to get the trunk open with the key, I could turn it a bit but not enough to open so would use the release by the driver's seat. Once done would just slam the trunk down. It would stay down but, unknown to me, the lock was not fully "engaged" so the lid was not *fully* down.
Critically, this meant the little light inside the trunk was still on. Although it's a very small drain on the battery, being on *all* the time (even when I wasn't driving) was enough to cause problems.
If I ran the car every day (i.e. during the work week) all was OK, but I tend not to use it at the weekend, so on Monday morning the battery had be drained just enough to not be able to start (Monday morning are bad enough without having to cope with a dead car).
I only replaced the battery once before recognising the "Monday morning" pattern.
The fix was to lubricate the trunk lock so it worked easily and fully engaged the lock when the trunk lid was closed, thus turning off the internal trunk light!!
Of course your problem may not be the trunk lock, but look for some small drain like a license plate light (or short circuit)
Hope this helps......
Now when you turn your lights on, the inner trunk lights are supposed to turn on. BTW these lights are a waste of money. I personally don’t have bulbs in these sockets.
My car
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/ph97accord/back-car-naphi.- gif
As far as your center light I would change the bulb or get the socket fixed, check the wiring.
If you look at 90-93 accord and Acura TLs both the outer and inter trunk lights, light up when braking. 97 Accords don’t.
Well, first off, at low engine speeds (idling, < 1500 rpm) oil, thick or thin, is not being circulated very well. Oil circulation in the engine relies heavily on the speed of the engine itself, as it spins faster, it is able to forcefully ciculate the oil better and further into the depths and heights of the engine parts. Cold oil will barely leave the pan when idling, so warming up a car at idle in very cold weather will serve to have the water/antifreeze mixture in the radiator and heater core heated well, so you can have the heater on and be toasty inside, but the side effect is severely shortened engine life (bye bye piston rings, hello blow by and rebuild job). Its everyone's choice, obviously, since you paid for the car, but if you want advice to maintain your engine to its max possible life expectancy, do NOT let car run at idle for those 5 or 10 minutes, instead start it up and drive off, don't go crazy and rev to 5000+ rpm, but a good 3000 or 4000 peak before auto or manual shift will lessen wear on engine (as opposed to 1000 rpm idling when oil is hardly circulating and metal is scraping metal over and over).
The fuel injection systems control the cold mixtures much better. But the goal is to get the walls heat up to an efficiently-burning temperature to minimize friction. Driving the car gently heats everything up faster due to the engine working rather than loafing at idle.
I don't tip the accelerator more than a minimum when I first start out. I give the ca
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
did you ever find out what was going on with your car? I have an 01, EX V6 that makes a consistent scraping (like a metal hanger dragging on the ground) when I brake, accelerate, back up, etc. Any ideas?
The fuel injection systems control the cold mixtures much better. But the goal is to get the walls heated up to an efficiently-burning temperature to minimize friction. Driving the car gently heats everything up faster due to the engine working rather than loafing at idle.
I don't tip the accelerator more than a minimum when I first start out. I give the car about 30 seconds to get the oil hitting the warm walls and then I go. Usually don't even have to touch the accelerator to back out of space and get out the parking lot drives...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Your argument assumes that oil-pump pressure at idle with cold, thick oil is significantly less than the oil pressure which occurs at normal engine speed and temperature. Do you know that?
My own guess would be just the opposite - that cold, thick oil would cause higher-than-normal oil pressure.
I'm doubtful that oil circulation is much of an issue either. If oil is too thick to run out of the bearings, is it that important to have fresh oil running in? Certainly, good circulation is important for cooling internal engine hot-spots but when surfaces are cold then only a sufficiently thick oil film should be required to protect parts, no?
I'd guess that the truth of this issue is very complicated and highly variable. There probably is no "one best" answer for all engine parts with any oil in any ambient temperature. I'd also guess than engine warm-up or not makes little difference overall, hence the lack of manufacturer recommendations in this regard.
Of course, this is all mere speculation and I could be dead wrong. =8-)
When I brought to the dealership on Wednesday, they put some lubrication but did not solve the problem. The problem happened again yesterday. So I brought in today and was told that they can't do any thing since they couldn't reproduce the problem.
What can I do?
How may we help you?
"Idiot lights" replaced those gauges decades ago, so you don't see any indication of oil pressure unless it drops so low that a light comes on.
No, the cars I mentioned weren't new when I had them--I'm not THAT old :-)).......Richard
Is it possible to adjust the brightness of that display? Neither the instrument panel brightness control (behind the steering wheel) nor the nav display brighness control seems to do anything to it.
Thanks,
-mike
To answer your question my commute is 35 miles. 5 of those miles are done on small 2 lane roads with minimal traffic and only a couple of stop signs and 2 red lights. Of the remaining 30 miles, 20 miles of the commute is on a 4 lane highway with no redlights, minimal traffic, and a 65MPH speed limit. The remaining 10 miles is still on a 4 lane with a little more congestion during the morning and evening rush hour but still very little stop and go. Add to that the fact that I usually drive to work during "off-peak" hours and the wear and tear on our cars due to our commute is almost non-existent.
I had the same problem in an old Camry, but it was caused by a fender-bender accident. In my case the wires inside the door panel was pinched by the damaged door against the frame and slowly discharged the battery. Dealers and repair shops pulled their hair out but could not find it. A friend of my used his logic and found the problem, taped up the wires and it was fixed.
You should trace your memory and figure out what you had done to the car. Look at the wires around the areas that you had worked on, or had been impacted by foreign objects etc... find any exposed, chafed, pinched wires, connectors ....
Good luck.
I have an 05' EXV6/Auto Sedan with the same exact problem. I've noticed a few drops of transmission fluid under the driver side, near the front wheel. I have confirmed that it is transmission fluid. Did you get uour problem resolved? I'm due to take mine in Monday. Thanks in advance.
- Drew
ramida
P.S. I personally think that changing oil at 3,000 miles is unneccessary and a waste of time and money.
By the way, I changed my 03 Accord's air filter yesterday and was very much surprised at the car now running dramatically smooth -- no more horsey acceleration (at least the jerky acceleration if you ease off the gas and then on the gas again, is now less than annoying, but it's still there -- a design flaw in my opinion that needs fixing.)
Thank you very much!!!
Do you respond to your Navigation System's "Lawyer Screen" by pressing the on-screen button while your vehicle is outdoors? Or do you do so before you drive out of a garage? If your GPS sensor is not "seeing" a satellite when you press that button, you will probably experience the kind of incorrect positioning that you've described.
You've stated "In the nav's diagnostic menu (map + Menu + Cancel), under the "B-Cam" it says "Error Active"." You'd probably be well advised to avoid self-diagnosis of the Navigation System.
My '01 failed at 111K, with fluid changes every 20K using only the Honda ATF-Z1. Fortunately, Honda did goodwill a portion of the reman expense,
but in my opinion, they should have recalled the whole batch.
If your the type of person who only keeps a vehicle for a short time, you may not experience the problem. But I won't recommend 6th Gen autos to anyone who keeps their vehicles for the longhaul.
I'm currently at 137K and the reman is still performing well. I'm now draining/refilling the trans fluid every 10K or less. I've lost faith in Hondas transmissions. They still seem capable of building a long-lived engine though. No oil consumption or leakage since new and still loves cruising the interstates. I'm still getting better than 35mpg @70mph on long trips.
or have any suggestions?
I just bought a 2005 Accord EX. When driving 45MPH with the back window down (it happens if I have just one back window down or both), I hear a loud sound (seems like it is due to the wind). When I get up to 60MPH the sound is so loud it even affects the radio. When the windows are closed I don't hear the noise (and I don't hear it when the front windows are down). Has anyone else had this problem? Is it all 2005 Accord Ex's that do this or is it just mine?
I had a 1994 Accord EX, and didn't have this problem with that car?
Please help....suggestions, ideas etc..etc.
Sue
Open one of the front windows and the sound should go away. Basically, you have turned the air in your car into a giant drum.
I'm disappointed in how today's nugget of automotive wisdom worked out. Perhaps driver's with vertically mounted oil filters will have more luck.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,