I have a 2005 EX V6 with that annoying windshield rattling issue. The dealer put insulation between the dash and the windshield which seemed to fix about 80% of the problem, but I am concerned that this might only be a temporary fix. Another car came into the same dealership with the windshield problem, and Honda told the dealer to have the windshield resealed. That didn't help. The service manager is now going to arrange for the Honda rep to look at my car. I have also had a couple of minor rattles that the dealer is going to have the Honda rep look into for me. I am concerned that the dealer isn't really addressing these other rattles before turning it over to the Honda rep. If the Honda rep doesn't hear anything on a test drive, will that be it? Anyway, I feel that this forum is filled with valuable information, and I wanted to get some feedback before the Honda rep comes in:
1. Has anyone else had feedback from a Honda rep regarding the windshield rattling issue?
2. There is a rattle coming from the driver's seatbelt adjuster on the B pillar. It will go away, at least temporarily, if the seat belt height is changed to one of the other positions. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, is there a fix?
3. There is a rattle/vibration noise coming from the glovebox, even when empty. It will go away if the glovebox door is opened. Any suggestions?
My problem is the passenger power seat that has no up/down control. Asked if it was possible to raise seat somehow. No answers were forthcoming. My wife sits on a pillow to see out overe the front end (she is used to the view from her Highlander) but complains that eliminates the great seat warmer found in the EX w/leather.
I had the windshield rattle and re-sealing the windshield damn near eliminated it. I still get a little cracking sound once in a great while, usually when its really cold or when I first turn on the defroster before the car fully warms up but it is now largely quiet.
I too have had the driver's seatbelt adjuster noise - although mine is not a rattle and is, instead, more a plastice rubbing noise. Dealer has thus far been unable to hear it and so unable to fix it.
As for the glovebox (I assume you mean passenger front and not center console), I believe the u-bolt most gloveboxes latch on to close can be adjusted in much the same way as a door hinge. It may be that yours is too far away and the glovebox lid is not being pulled tight against the box when you close it.
I have a 93 accord ex and in 1 day the rear defrost, clock,rpm,mph,gas,temp on the cluster won't mark along with my power windows. i checked all the fuses and relay and there all good.
If you have a Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) or can get ahold of one you could possibly troubleshoot yourself. You can pull a fuse and check and see if you have voltage at the fuse box. You could also check for voltage at various other locations.
It sounds like you have an electrical gremlin, either a broken wire ( most likely ) or a short somewhere. They are difficult to find and resolve. It would be best, probably, to find Honda dealer ( more expensive) or an independent (less expensive) and find out if they will diagonose your electrical problem/s for a fixed fee. If they want to charge by the hour be wary, it could be expensive. Form the diagnostic, you should be able to determine you next course of action. If a broken wire/s is/are found, that is pretty simple to fix. It also could be a power window circuit boars or controller., but the fact that you mention several things going out all at onece that don't appear to be common, seems to indicate a wiring harness came loose or rubbed and broke ( open circuited) some wires.
After 2 and a half years and 12K miles, it is the first time I heard a rattle/noise last night. I am not sure where it comes from (on the driver side). It didn't happen all the time. Will pay attention to the seatbelt adjuster the next time.
MY 99 ACCORD HAS BEEN VERY LOYAL TO ME. I HAVE PUT 75K ON THIS BABY.I HAVE DONE MINOR TUNEUP AT 35K & 65K AND OF COURSE MY REGULAR 3.5K OIL CHANGE. WHAT DO I NEED TO DO TO KEEP IT RUNNING GREAT? I AM PLANNING TO CHANGE TIMING BELT WHEN IT REACHES 80K. IS IT THE RIGHT TIME? PLEASE ADVISE. MOREOVER, I NOTICE OIL IS LEAKING ON THE AROUND THE ENGINE. WHY IS THAT? I USE 5W30 IN WINTER AND 10W30 IN SUMMER. IS THIS OK FOR THE ENGINE? PLEASE ADVISE. my e-mail is richbf2@hotmail.com. THANKS IN ADVANCE
We are looking for a new Honda with a manual tranny. I am going to check these things during the test drive. Do any other problems come to mind? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.
1) Make sure the steering does not drift.
2) Make sure the brakes do not pull to one side.
3) Drive on a rough road and listen for rattles.
4) Make sure the seat does not slide forward when I brake.
5) Check visually for any flaws in the body or interior.
Some of the things you ask , appears you are talking about the exact car you are going to buy rather than a demo car.
1) Alignement or tires can be fixed under warranty
2) Be very careful here. Honda recommends you gently use the brakes for the first 200 miles. If you aggressively stop to see if it pulls you might significantly shoeten the life of YOUR brakes.
3) Okay if you wnat. But most rattles don't occurr immediately and most can be fixed under warranty.
4) Just because one or two people have reported this problem doesn't mena it is prevelant. Again, be careful on stopping hard in a new car before the 200 miles is up.
5) Good idea!
============ The mileage on your car should really be in single digits. You don't want to buy a car with miles on it or a demo. Why you ask? Because the miles are uusally very hard miles flooring the car to see how it accelarates. Slamming on the brakes to see how it stops. These are not the kind of 600 gentle miles honda recommned with no full throttle or the 200 miles gentle braking that Honda recommends to actaully break-in a car properly.
Have what my salesman did. Go over ALL of the fetures with you and show you how they work. It will take an hour but it is worth it!
Make sure you have all the options you paid for and did not get charged for extra options you didn't want: protecttnat, undercoating, window etching, ADM.
If you are financing look very carefully at the finance agreement. Ask yourself if you really want Honda Care, GaAP insurance, etc. These are expensive and in most cases not needed.
Some thing you might want to check:
(1) seat position make sure you are comfortable.
(2) road noise on highway.
(3) how the car handles on the highway. responsiveness Jounce.
(4) mirror blind spots.
++++++
Honda makes an excellent manual transmssion so you can't go wrong there, 5-speed or 6-speed (better becuase comes with the V6)
have a 2004 accord, tried replacing my windshield wiper blades(not just the inserts) with aftermarket brands such as anco. the drivers side blade(26")knocks. there is a clip on the blade arm and it appears the blade is not fitting into that clip. on the original blade there is a piece that seems to fit in the clip but not on aftermarket blades. i would consider just replacing the insert but cant find one that size. am i stuck with going to the honda dealer to get them replaced???
Bob, I go to the dealer for my wiper inserts and I get both inserts from the parts department for $11 and change (after tax). If it is inconvenient to go, perhaps you could buy 2 or 3 sets.
2. There is a rattle coming from the driver's seatbelt adjuster on the B pillar. It will go away, at least temporarily, if the seat belt height is changed to one of the other positions. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, is there a fix?
I had this same rattle coming from the passenger side adjuster. I found that the noise came from the vertical plastic piece just behind the B-pillar (about 2 inches wide and 6-8 inches long). The solution I found was to remove the B-pillar and put felt tape on the back of this plastic piece (between it and the metal piece about the same size behind it) and also on the back of the B-pillar around the opening for the seatbelt attachment. I haven't heard the noise in about a year. Good luck.
How did you convince the dealer to put in the window installation or reseal the window - I have the same problem and can't convince my dealer to do it?
I am sure this may be posted somewhere else on the site, but could not find...
In Oct 03 I had my 03 accord LX in for service. When I picked up the service advisor told me that the tech noticed the rotors were bad (I had not mentioned them, but had heard that there was a problem from this site). They replaced them and the pads for free. Wow, what great service! The car had 11k on it at the time. Fast forward to Mar 05... Car has 26k on it and for the last 2 months I have a slight vibration when stopping. I took the car in for a check engine light and asked them to check the rotors b/c I might be having the same problem. I was advised that yes they were warped, but that it was a problem not covered under warranty (15k later after originally replaced). My questions are this: 1) Any people out there with similar problem? If so what resolution did you get? 2) Would 1st replacement have "fixed" the problem or is this an ongoing problem caused by something else? BTW, I have never had a rotor problem with any other car I have had, which makes me think that it is not necessarily me. Any help is appreciated!
Oil leaking could be a sign of a PCV, (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system problem, ---(pressure in the crankcase). Make sure that the PCV system is clean, and the valve is operational. If you are not sure about the condition of the valve, replace it with a Honda valve. DO NOT use an aftermarket product from an auto store. PCV valve calibration is VERY important. Spend the extra money!
Many vehicles have rotor problems. Just do a search with other manufacturers, and you will see that it is a problem in the automotive industry. The problem centers around "HEAT Dissipation", and the manner in which the wheel lugs are tightened, when the vehicle is serviced. A Torque Wrench should be used to tighten the wheel lugs. Lug nuts should be tightened evenly, and brought up to torque slowly. Even though a torque wrench is used, a rotor can warp due to heat. There are aftermarket rotors that are "cross-drilled" with holes, so that they can dissipate heat better. I do not think you will get a second set of rotors from the dealer. If they are warped slightly, they can be cut. The problem will go away, but it will return due to heat being generated by the brake system. Once the rotor is cut, it is thinner, and more susceptible to warpage. The problem with the "original equipment rotors", in the automtive industry, is that the "QUALITY" is not all that GREAT. To eliminate this issue, I would go with the aftermarket "Cross-drilled rotors" and the brake pads to go with those rotors.
> The problem will go away, but it will return due to heat being generated by the brake system. Once the rotor is cut, it is thinner, and more susceptible to warpage.
I agree with gregc. Once rotors have warmped and are trued, the fact there is less metal on one sector than another leads to warmping more easily the next 10K. I think they are also more susceptible to splash water causing warping (driving throug rain and puddles).
I recommend replacement rotors like Raybestos Best, not the price-competitive cheaper level. I replaced them on my car of another brand and haven't had a lick of trouble since. Save yourself the angst; replace the things if the dealer won't and rmember it when you purchase your next car brand.
When you do a high mileage replacement for pads, replace everything, calipers, rotors (if not already done) and you'll save yourself angst 10-20-30K later.
Has very, very little to do with heat dissipation. metal is an execellent conductor of electricity and heat. Whether a wheel is torqued too tight or a little loose will only affect the heat transfer minimally. Just basic scientific and engineering principles.
And since it doesn't affect heat dissipation it doesn't affect rotor warping.
What are real causes of excessive heat in brake rotor warping: (1) Brake pads create too much heat ( apparently Honda had this problem with early 7th generation (2) Brake discs are not large enough for the car weight.(debateable are honda's brakes not quite big enough ?) (3) Normally brake cooling is through airflow past the discs. Such things as brake dust shields are bad because they can reduce the heat dissipation and result in warping.
(4) driver has repeated stops that cause heat build up.
If the rotors warp during normal driving they should be covered under warranty. If not, what about Midas lifetime brake pads ? Just a thought.
Thanks,
MidCow
P.S.- Torquing of wheel lug nuts also does not affect the electrical systems
The "torque comment" was not connected to the "heat dissipation issue", but rather, the twisting of the rotor itself due to unequal torque on the individual lug nuts.
I'm sure most people caught that the uneven pressure causes warping during the heating and cooling cycles of the rotor. Almost every mechanic I've talked to can explain that. It took year for the tire shops to catch on that the uneven torque was a problem.
Our 98 accord lx 4 cyl over heated and sucked all the oil from the engine and put it in the cooling system. I took the head off: gasket looked fine, had the head magnufluxed/press. tested checked for warpage, all OK! Radiator tested good. What could cause this problem? nobody seems to know anything about it. Is this unheard of???
I have a new 2005 Accord ... 1600 miles, and I've got scratches that can be felt in the outside side mirror (passenger side). Is this mirror some sort of plastic? If it's glass, it certainly shouldn't have scratched. Does anyone have a fix?
My '98 Honda Accord factory alarm system is acting up-- intermittently. Sometimes when the engine is started after the doors have been opened remotely the alarm goes off as if you pressed the panic button. You can stop it by turning off the engine and pressing the remote unlock button several times. If you try starting again, it may go off or it may be reset and be fine for a week or a day. Anyone have a clue as to what might cause this and if the cause can't be found, can the alarm be disabled?? The Honda service reps say they must see it do the problem.
The problem never occurs if the doors don't need to be unlocked or if the door is unlocked with the key. Thanks, DeCap
Nobody here could possibly "have a fix" for your concerns, as they would more effectively be presented to your Honda dealer. If it is a defect, I'm sure that the part would be replaced under your warranty. Just stand your ground.
Hi, I saw your posting on Edmunds regarding the problem you had with your '98 Honda Accord's Alarm system. We are having the same problem with my wife's accord and haven't yet received much help or encouragement from the dealer.
Hi, Bought 05 EX V6 in 2/05. After first week, noticed that after I pull out of parking space and first start to drive and accelerate out of a turn, I will hear a rubbing sound (and feel it in the pedal) as if something was rubbing up against the bottom of the car. It will happen only once. I will not be able to duplicate when the vehicle is warm. So far, dealer has not been a\ble to hear the noise.
I'm a classic car nut. This 86 lxi FI I4 a/t Just overhauled engine and trans. It passed emissions test before overhaul. Now it will not pass emissions because of a high CO twice normal values should be 1.0 but getting 2.4 . Any ideas???
Get Legal Olafman! (1)Check to see if your state has a Lemon Law and learn what actions are necessary for you to file a complaint. (2) Keep records of the number of times and dates that you requested the dealer to repair of replace a failed part or assembly on your vehicle. If your state has a lemon law, and the dealer cannot repair the vehicle to your satisfaction then its court time and you may be awarded a replacement vehicle.
I just bought a second hand 1998 Honda Accord EX Coupe and there are certain things that are acting up. For one, when I start the car, I cannot change the gear from the Park to the Drive mode without using the spare key in the spot near to the transmission. The transmission of the car is fine and once it is in the drive mode, it runs smoothly without any problems. I am planning to take it to the mechanic, but I thought I would see if anyone would know anything about this. Is it something that would need a lot of work.
Also the battery seems to drain away pretty fast. That is drive the car from work to home and park it. When try to start it after a couple of hours the battery has already died out. Is is time for me to get another battery.
One of my friend was telling me that it could be an electrical defect and that there is a leak somewhere.
Do let me know if you would be knowing the reasons for these problems.
Paint scratches occur when a vehicle is washed with brushes. The high speed, spinning brushes of an automated car wash can make an impression on a paint job. Your mirror may be made out of ABS plastic. Go to your local auto parts store and buy a brand name "polishing compound" and carefully read the directions.
Your Accord may be equipped with a "shift interlock". An interlock system prevents the transmission from being shifted from Neutral into Drive unless you press on the brake pedal. As far as the battery issue, you can take the Accord to a Walmart automotive center and ask one of the technicians to run a complete electrical system test. That test can usually identify a failing battery, alternator, voltage regulator etc...
GregoryC's advice is right on the money. Also, wash your discs constantly if you live in an area of the US or Canada where state road crews use road salts to melt highway ice/snow.
Follow the Accord's owner manual for maintenance, replacement parts and oil viscosities. Over the years and miles, all engines, even Hondas, vibrate. And during the vibration screws and bolts loosen especially in the engine area. Using Honda specs,techniques and a torque wrench,just re-tighten the bolts and screws. If the leaks do not stop, then gaskets may have to be replaced.
The array of sensors which monitor the engine's performance, fluid dynamics, emissions, electrical pulses and other data have identified an "emerging" problem which may leave you stranded on the side of the road at O Dark Thirty in the morning. My advice, go to a reputable Honda dealership and let them run the diagnostics.
Today we were driving on busy I-71 in Columbus going 65+ and all of a sudden the car just quits...all electrical goes off and engine goes off....we struggle with no power steering to side of the road.
After an attempt or two the car starts and we are on our way. My son said it did it about 2-3 months ago but didn't tell us.
You meant from Park to Drive? Shifting from Neutral to Drive doesn't require pressing the brake, but Neutral to Park/Reverse does require pressing the brake.
For your battery, if you live near a NTB shop, bring the car to them. They will do a charging test for free. They will tell you if the car needs a new battery or not. If your car still has the original battery, there is a very good chance it will need a new one.
Thanks for the replies. I haven't used an automated car wash (won't go near them), and I don't think I could have put the scratches in the mirror using a terry cloth towel and some 20/20 window cleaner. But who knows?
I'll take it to the dealer next week and see what they have to say. If they can't do anything, they should at least be able to tell me if the mirror is glass or some sort of plastic. If glass, then I could try a glass polish. If plastic, a plastic polish.
The seven year old battery has served its time, replace it. Before you do, check that the fan control relay is not sticking on. If it is, your new battery will discharge too.
Sorry, can't help with the trans selector problem.
Comments
1. Has anyone else had feedback from a Honda rep regarding the windshield rattling issue?
2. There is a rattle coming from the driver's seatbelt adjuster on the B pillar. It will go away, at least temporarily, if the seat belt height is changed to one of the other positions. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, is there a fix?
3. There is a rattle/vibration noise coming from the glovebox, even when empty. It will go away if the glovebox door is opened. Any suggestions?
Thanks for any help.
I too have had the driver's seatbelt adjuster noise - although mine is not a rattle and is, instead, more a plastice rubbing noise. Dealer has thus far been unable to hear it and so unable to fix it.
As for the glovebox (I assume you mean passenger front and not center console), I believe the u-bolt most gloveboxes latch on to close can be adjusted in much the same way as a door hinge. It may be that yours is too far away and the glovebox lid is not being pulled tight against the box when you close it.
Happy motoring!
-fS
However, if it still starts maybe the problem is the starter relay.
Does anything still work ?
Cheers,
MidCow
If you have a Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) or can get ahold of one you could possibly troubleshoot yourself. You can pull a fuse and check and see if you have voltage at the fuse box. You could also check for voltage at various other locations.
It sounds like you have an electrical gremlin, either a broken wire ( most likely ) or a short somewhere. They are difficult to find and resolve. It would be best, probably, to find Honda dealer ( more expensive) or an independent (less expensive) and find out if they will diagonose your electrical problem/s for a fixed fee. If they want to charge by the hour be wary, it could be expensive. Form the diagnostic, you should be able to determine you next course of action. If a broken wire/s is/are found, that is pretty simple to fix. It also could be a power window circuit boars or controller., but the fact that you mention several things going out all at onece that don't appear to be common, seems to indicate a wiring harness came loose or rubbed and broke ( open circuited) some wires.
Good Luck,
MidCow.
I USE 5W30 IN WINTER AND 10W30 IN SUMMER. IS THIS OK FOR THE ENGINE? PLEASE ADVISE. my e-mail is richbf2@hotmail.com.
THANKS IN ADVANCE
1) Make sure the steering does not drift.
2) Make sure the brakes do not pull to one side.
3) Drive on a rough road and listen for rattles.
4) Make sure the seat does not slide forward when I brake.
5) Check visually for any flaws in the body or interior.
1) Alignement or tires can be fixed under warranty
2) Be very careful here. Honda recommends you gently use the brakes for the first 200 miles. If you aggressively stop to see if it pulls you might significantly shoeten the life of YOUR brakes.
3) Okay if you wnat. But most rattles don't occurr immediately and most can be fixed under warranty.
4) Just because one or two people have reported this problem doesn't mena it is prevelant. Again, be careful on stopping hard in a new car before the 200 miles is up.
5) Good idea!
============
The mileage on your car should really be in single digits. You don't want to buy a car with miles on it or a demo. Why you ask? Because the miles are uusally very hard miles flooring the car to see how it accelarates. Slamming on the brakes to see how it stops. These are not the kind of 600 gentle miles honda recommned with no full throttle or the 200 miles gentle braking that Honda recommends to actaully break-in a car properly.
Have what my salesman did. Go over ALL of the fetures with you and show you how they work. It will take an hour but it is worth it!
Make sure you have all the options you paid for and did not get charged for extra options you didn't want: protecttnat, undercoating, window etching, ADM.
If you are financing look very carefully at the finance agreement. Ask yourself if you really want Honda Care, GaAP insurance, etc. These are expensive and in most cases not needed.
Some thing you might want to check:
(1) seat position make sure you are comfortable.
(2) road noise on highway.
(3) how the car handles on the highway. responsiveness Jounce.
(4) mirror blind spots.
++++++
Honda makes an excellent manual transmssion so you can't go wrong there, 5-speed or 6-speed (better becuase comes with the V6)
Good Luck,
MidCow
I had this same rattle coming from the passenger side adjuster. I found that the noise came from the vertical plastic piece just behind the B-pillar (about 2 inches wide and 6-8 inches long). The solution I found was to remove the B-pillar and put felt tape on the back of this plastic piece (between it and the metal piece about the same size behind it) and also on the back of the B-pillar around the opening for the seatbelt attachment. I haven't heard the noise in about a year. Good luck.
In Oct 03 I had my 03 accord LX in for service. When I picked up the service advisor told me that the tech noticed the rotors were bad (I had not mentioned them, but had heard that there was a problem from this site). They replaced them and the pads for free. Wow, what great service! The car had 11k on it at the time.
Fast forward to Mar 05... Car has 26k on it and for the last 2 months I have a slight vibration when stopping. I took the car in for a check engine light and asked them to check the rotors b/c I might be having the same problem. I was advised that yes they were warped, but that it was a problem not covered under warranty (15k later after originally replaced).
My questions are this:
1) Any people out there with similar problem? If so what resolution did you get?
2) Would 1st replacement have "fixed" the problem or is this an ongoing problem caused by something else?
BTW, I have never had a rotor problem with any other car I have had, which makes me think that it is not necessarily me. Any help is appreciated!
I agree with gregc. Once rotors have warmped and are trued, the fact there is less metal on one sector than another leads to warmping more easily the next 10K. I think they are also more susceptible to splash water causing warping (driving throug rain and puddles).
I recommend replacement rotors like Raybestos Best, not the price-competitive cheaper level. I replaced them on my car of another brand and haven't had a lick of trouble since. Save yourself the angst; replace the things if the dealer won't and rmember it when you purchase your next car brand.
When you do a high mileage replacement for pads, replace everything, calipers, rotors (if not already done) and you'll save yourself angst 10-20-30K later.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
And since it doesn't affect heat dissipation it doesn't affect rotor warping.
What are real causes of excessive heat in brake rotor warping:
(1) Brake pads create too much heat ( apparently Honda had this problem with early 7th generation
(2) Brake discs are not large enough for the car weight.(debateable are honda's brakes not quite big enough ?)
(3) Normally brake cooling is through airflow past the discs. Such things as brake dust shields are bad because they can reduce the heat dissipation and result in warping.
(4) driver has repeated stops that cause heat build up.
If the rotors warp during normal driving they should be covered under warranty. If not, what about Midas lifetime brake pads ? Just a thought.
Thanks,
MidCow
P.S.- Torquing of wheel lug nuts also does not affect the electrical systems
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The problem never occurs if the doors don't need to be unlocked or if the door is unlocked with the key.
Thanks,
DeCap
Nobody here could possibly "have a fix" for your concerns, as they would more effectively be presented to your Honda dealer. If it is a defect, I'm sure that the part would be replaced under your warranty. Just stand your ground.
I saw your posting on Edmunds regarding the problem you had with your '98 Honda Accord's Alarm system. We are having the same problem with my wife's accord and haven't yet received much help or encouragement from the dealer.
How did you solve the problem that you had?
Thanks for sharing,
DeCap
Any help is appreciated...
Mark
fastboatn@yahoo.com
Bought 05 EX V6 in 2/05. After first week, noticed that after I pull out of parking space and first start to drive and accelerate out of a turn, I will hear a rubbing sound (and feel it in the pedal) as if something was rubbing up against the bottom of the car. It will happen only once. I will not be able to duplicate when the vehicle is warm. So far, dealer has not been a\ble to hear the noise.
From H and A Accessories
brandon
Just overhauled engine and trans.
It passed emissions test before overhaul.
Now it will not pass emissions because of a high
CO twice normal values should be 1.0 but getting 2.4 . Any ideas???
Wheelman
Is it something that would need a lot of work.
Also the battery seems to drain away pretty fast. That is drive the car from work to home and park it. When try to start it after a couple of hours the battery has already died out. Is is time for me to get another battery.
One of my friend was telling me that it could be an electrical defect and that there is a leak somewhere.
Do let me know if you would be knowing the reasons for these problems.
Wheelman
Wheelman
Wheelman
Just don't wash those brakes when they are very hot (from hard braking). That would be courting rotor warping.
Wheelman
Wheelman
After an attempt or two the car starts and we are on our way. My son said it did it about 2-3 months ago but didn't tell us.
Shifting from Neutral to Drive doesn't require pressing the brake, but Neutral to Park/Reverse does require pressing the brake.
For your battery, if you live near a NTB shop, bring the car to them. They will do a charging test for free. They will tell you if the car needs a new battery or not. If your car still has the original battery, there is a very good chance it will need a new one.
I'll take it to the dealer next week and see what they have to say. If they can't do anything, they should at least be able to tell me if the mirror is glass or some sort of plastic. If glass, then I could try a glass polish. If plastic, a plastic polish.
Sorry, can't help with the trans selector problem.