Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Also the LCD for the temp and clock is not working (can't see the display clearly, though from certain angle you can see the temp move up or down). Is it just a bulb or whole LCD is no use?
Thanks for all those who reposnd!!
Do you recommend I get the work done at the Lexus Dealership or would an A/C specialty shop be better. Please tell me "why" you made that recommendation.
Is this a car a keeper or should I consider trading or selling it?
Lexus Owners - PLEASE respond QUICKLY as it is getting hot!!
We are actually looking at this situation for our customers right now. I'm researching what Lexus recommends for retrofit. As soon as I have info from Lexus, I will be sure to post it.
As for whether to sell or fix your 91 LS400. I have several customers with this year/model, and I know how great these cars are (even though it was one of the first). They will last and last. You may have repairs, but even newer Lexus' have repairs, and you know the history on this one. That is a major plus for peace of mind.
R-134A is a hydroflourocarbon which has no ODP (oxone depletion potential).
Why? I guess they don't believe me.
The VSC Off indicator no longer lights when the transmission stops working. But it still has the same problem - while driving (this time about 40 miles per hour,) the car suddenly loses power to the wheels, even though the engine is still running fine.
It happens without warning, this time it was fine for three days before it messed up.
Stop the car, turn off the ignition, turn it back on, and it runs fine for hours or days.
The dealer doesn't want to change the computer, obviously,
The car is under warranty, so it isn't costing me anything - but who cares? It's lucky that no one has been hurt.
It's production begins with methane and subjects to series of chemical reaction with halogens to produces R-12. The raw materials are abundant and cheap. R-12 is costly because of government regulations as well as heavy taxes.
If possible, you should replace the AC pump that is compatible with R-134 and retrofit your AC system to R-134 - it will cost less in the long run if you decided to keep your car. You should also look into replacing the high&low pressure AC hoses which will eventually leak after 10 years of service. Don't let anyone sell you new set of hoses, but rather, have an AC shop rebuilt the hoses at a fraction of the cost of a new set. While you're at it, change the o-ring at the hose connectors to R-134 compatible o-rings.
Sound like alot? Well, these services are not that atypical for a 10 years old AC system.
It is important to run the AC system at least once a month for at least 5 minutes to keep the system lubricated and prevent the seals from drying out. Good luck!
Don't let them sell you new motor until you're convinced that the motor is dead. Just runs 12v through the motor to see if it turns - this is how diagnose motor problem.
As for LCD problems, read previous posts on this thread and you may find your answers.
How did they change the transmission fluid to factory fluid? Did they drain the fluid via the drain screw? How much fluid(quarts) did they use to refill?
Just had timing belt and water pump replaced with 15,000 mile service. Replaced LCD for temp control and clock from Mikado, thanks for the tip! saved $200 easily. Still looking at AC work! Don't know how much yet, but with my luck lately. Still, after all is said and done, I'll be driving a new car, and what a great car it is!!!!!
If you have to change a compressor, dryer, and evaporator you might as well convert to R134A which cost about $5 per pound.
The question is how long will R12 still be smuggled into US and when EPA will outlaw it completely my guess is after J Bush leaves office.
Vote for a 2nd term and save money.
Guess we're just lucky to have so many thoughtful people.
T3 Automotive Atlanta , GA.
South's largest independent Lexus and Infiniti Repair
1991 that needs A/C, I would change system to new style refigerant and keep car. The suggestion that you know the car is correct, purchasing another one is so risky, I know first hand I am in the business.. The advice that after 10 years A/C will need rebuild is fair. I would also use reputable A/C specialist shop (Non Lexus) that has been, and will be around to honor the warranty you should receive with a rebuild. I would also shop, shop and shop around over the phone questioning and learining from all the shops I called.
For a full tranny fluid change draining from the plug will not suffice. For a full fluid change you must drop the pan and drain. Check out irontoad.com and you can purchase the proper gaskets, screens and fluid. I would purchase the parts from the toad and bring it to a proffesional tranny shop who has seen and touched LS 400 tranny's before, and have them flush and replace fluid. I have also read in prior posts that there is a Toyota type IV fluid (new type) which is excellent for this car, good luck.
My LS 400 did not sell on e-bay, there was more bidding on a 200,000 mile car. This really suprised me, both that people would purchase a 200 k car and that mine was passed over with under 100 k and a true one owner??. I have serious considerations of just keeping her, we will see.
Regards
Sheldon
My 1994 LS's Ivory Leather interior has a few discoloration areas like on the center console (armrest) it is RED !! under the leather that is not due to wear but I used a HARSH chemical and put to much on that area of the leather , and the passenger seat has a few things, I need to know how to get this fixed , I dun no where to look , by no means do I need the WHOLE seat to be re-colored , do places sell like a bottle of the dye ? or is it much more complicated than that any place on the net , and if I go to Lexus I will just be forking out the $$ left and right so.... if anyone can help please let me know .
(Long Time Lexus Fan),
Paul
http://www.leatherique.com/prod03.htm
This is what I found:
KYB sells only the fronts
Tokico lists shocks from 1990 to 1994; but Carparts.com lists the shocks to 1997.
I believe Bilstein does not offer any.
I'm sure Tein from Japan makes them but I didn't want to go that extreme.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
For the Gentleman with the shock issue, I suggest trying advice from Ryan at irontaod.com he know quite a lot about lexus parts and sells factory parts way below retail prices.
Good luck
Sheldon
How can I determine if the key or the receiver has failed, and what is the best option for repairing or replacing the key.
Thank you!
As soon as I start the engine each morning, the revs rise immediately to around 1500 rpm (1200 or so in summer). They do come down fairly quickly as the car approaches operating temperature, but during that initial 4-5 minute period during which the idle speed is raised to that level, the process of engaging Drive is, as you might expect, a bit clunky. The problem is made worse by the fact that I live in a fairly built up area and I almost always have to stop the car about
40 yards from my house at the first set of traffic lights. At that point, I engage neutral - simply because I don't like having to hold the car stationary on the brakes against the urging of the engine. And so, of course, this clunky, jerking process of engaging Drive is repeated at those lights and at every other stoppage I encounter until the car has warmed up. I suppose it's not really a major problem, and to my surprise, I've been told many times by various people whose opinions I have sought that it may not actually be a fault at all but simply a design feature. However, I do find it very irritating and would love to get rid of it if at all possible.
Thanks.
Kim Singer (Mr.)
kim@singer.screaming.net
I know that some cars do idle faster when cold, but the reason I am seeking a fix for this is that, firstly, I know someone with the same model who doesn't have the problem and, secondly, I find it hard to believe that Lexus would build a car that is so smooth in practically every other way, but so jerky in this one respect.
As it happens, I did have the transmission fluid changed a year or so ago, but the idle problem has been with me since before that.
The point you make about the merits of leaving it in gear is interesting, and I, too, have heard that it's OK to do this. I must admit, though, that it's hard to believe this can be true - especially when you're waiting at lights with a powerful engine revving so fast that you can hear the brakes creaking under the strain of holding the car in place. Apart from the strain on the brake system's components, how can this scenario be seen as anything other than a major waste of the engine's energy and, of course, fuel?
Normally a lux car would be in a heated garage and then allowed to warm up 5-7 minutes before one would drive away, this way all the fluids -trans, power steering, oil, coolant would warm up to operating temperature to extend the engine and transmission life. Driving away cold is a sure way to stress the components.
T3 Automotive LTD, maintains over 400 LS 400 in Atlanta as well as Infiniti models over 3,000 clients.
One should avoid engaging the transmission when the idle speed is high. Doing so will create sudden high stress on the transmission, U-joints, differential, CV-joints, mounts, etc...
One way to reduce transmission engaging stress at high idle is to engage the transmission without pressing on the brake(watch out for objects or people in your path). Once the transmission is engaged, gradually apply the brake to slow down or stop the car if necessary.
Here is my procedure:
1. release the parking brake
2. apply the brake to allow shifting lever to get out of park.
3. move lever to R or D and immediately release the brake(before the transmission engages).
4. let the car move a bit(~3 feet).
5. apply the brake if necessary.
Two things make me convinced that a cold idle speed of 1,700 + is not normal in these cars. Firstly, as I've said, a contact of mine with the same car as me does not have the problem. His car starts at around 700 rpm - and stays there. If his car can do this, I reckon mine should be able to do the same. Put another way, out of the two vehicles, which one should we suppose is running correctly? Mine - with all the clunks and the jolts - or his, with the smoothness you normally associate with a Lexus?
Secondly, not all modern cars are so afflicted. In fact, my wife's BMW behaves exactly like the above Lexus. It starts as it means to go on - no fuss, no bother and no need to rig up aftermarket alarms with remote starts working in conjunction with factory alarms etc. etc.
Surely, of all car manufacturers, Lexus should be expected to come up with at least as good a warm-up system as our 10-year-old BMW which does not, therefore, give owners as much as hassle and inconvenience as seems to be the case at the moment.
Well it has happened to you , the ominous power steering failure, yes the power steering fluid you are seeing is a leak , and the best thing to do is get a new power steering pump, I had mine replaced on my 1994 this winter @ Lexus it was $800 + with Labor but check around and see if you can do any better but remember to always have fluid in your resavior before you get it repaired!. As far as leather care I would reccomed Lexol it is a good product.
Wish you lots of luck !
Happy LS Owner,
Paul
It's amazing that people who spend $60-$30k on a car don't consider this option.
If you made enough to afford a luxo sport I have every confidence in your ability to read the English language.
The number one fault with Lexus is that if you don't change your power steering fluid regularly the hoses will leak and the leak will saturate the alternator causing it to fail.
Don't let the leak continue or you'll end up spending a quick $1200 to correct the problem...the PS groaning is caused by the internal filter being plugged up from crud and a pump failure is not far away!
To protect you from doing the things that would be detrimential to engine and trans life the engine computers attempt to override your attempts to destroy the car by cranking and driving away cold!
I'm driving my 93LS400 (w/ 120k miles) on highway and have the AC on for a good 30 minutes or so. Outside temperature is about 60-70 F. I'm in stop and go traffic, I see the temp. gauge rising to about the middle mark, and when I turn off the AC, suddenly the engine just shuts off with no warning! I veer off to the shoulder to avoid getting rear-ended, set it to Park, and restart the engine and no more problem.
This past weekend it happened again, except this time I was sailing at about 60-70mph w/ AC on (outside temp around 70 F) for about 45 minutes. I noticed the temp. gauge go up again, I pull off to an exit, and after about 10 minutes on local streets, when I turn off the AC, BAM! the engine shuts down again!
Any ideas, anyone???
1700rpm for ~6minutes with 50F ambient.
What are yours, rdwcdw?
I have seen mention of 5* dealerships. How do I find out if mine is a 5*? BB report is good but vague.
I recently surrendered my Grand Caravan lease. The service dept. was so good (ALWAYS had parts and a loner) I was tempted to buy another---but I want an LS400!
I am interested in purchasing the manual's for my 1992 LS 400. Where can I purchase them? Lexus or after market, please advise. I agree these books are very important to owners of older units.
Also please tell me how often, or when the power steering fluid should be changed? I did not know this was the cause of the pump failure. I wonder if there is a way to change or clean the filter as you mentioned it get's "Full of crud" or by changing the fluid regularly the crud does not build up. Can I change the P/steer fluid myself? is it difficult?
I also have the popping or cracking noises coming from the from brakes. I was considering new fitting kit - shims, rotors and pads. Can I just replace pads & fitting kit with turning rotors? (SAVE THE COST OF NEW ROTORS). When I press brake pedal now I feel a vibration in steering wheel, something is out of round and only felt when applying brakes from speeds above 25 MPH.
I also have the transmission shudder when downshifting (Tourqe converter?). In earlier posts I saw a suggestion to flush and change fluid to type IV and replace screen. In your experience does this solve the problem?
Best regards, and thanks again for your input.
Sheldon
The cold idle is 1.3k at 45 degree ambient for those interested. Only a modest surge when putting into gear. I never warm up the car for more than a minute...I just try to drive easy for the first few minutes to let her warm up.
I also had the transmission shudder and changing the transmission fluid fixed it....I did not use the new type IV but did have the entire amount of fluid changed i.e. not just removing the plug and draining it. This was done at a local shop and not at the Lexus dealer...total cost $70.
Thanks for all the info from everyone ...My LS400 is the best car I've ever owned!