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Lexus LS: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • wuzie888wuzie888 Member Posts: 1
    I'm the original owner of a 1994 Anniversary Edition and I still love my car. Recently, I've been hearing a low creaking noise, which seems as if it's coming from the rear suspension. This only happens when I make left turns; the turn can be hard or gentle, it makes that creaking noise. Does anyone have any idea of what might be the problem?
  • rtboonrtboon Member Posts: 21
    I too have a 1994 Anniversary edition LS400 with 87,000 miles. Several dealers and mechanics have told me that you do not need to change the AS timing belt until 90,000 miles and none of them ever recall a belt breaking. I too also have a suspension noise at low speeds and especially first thing in the morning. Dealer assures me everything is OK. Have not had a single problem with this car other than replacing the center brake light bulb! What a difference from my previous BMW 540.
  • lx400chwlx400chw Member Posts: 3
    Hi - I have a 1990 LS400 and the rear power window seems to have a problem. It occationally works, but most of the time not. When it works, both switches (driver control and rear passanger) function well. When it doesn't work, both fail. I slightly opened it this morning, and it stops working. Now I have a LS400 without fully closed window. What seems to be the problem?? Do I need a new motor?? All those great handy guys, please help!!!

    Also the LCD for the temp and clock is not working (can't see the display clearly, though from certain angle you can see the temp move up or down). Is it just a bulb or whole LCD is no use?

    Thanks for all those who reposnd!!
  • stugstug Member Posts: 1
    Hi. Looking for some advice. I have a 1991 Lexus LS 400 with 108,000. It is clean and running good. Unfortunately, my A/C compressor froze and the estimated cost is about $1,500 to repair.

    Do you recommend I get the work done at the Lexus Dealership or would an A/C specialty shop be better. Please tell me "why" you made that recommendation.

    Is this a car a keeper or should I consider trading or selling it?

    Lexus Owners - PLEASE respond QUICKLY as it is getting hot!!
  • lexusgallexusgal Member Posts: 1
    You do have a challenge there. The 91-93 LS400s have R-12 refrigerent in them. That is a refrigerent that is very expense now due to low supply. Since R-12 is a natural resource that is almost complete depleted, many manufacturers switched their refrigerent from R-12 to R-134 around 94-95 (including Lexus). When you consider this repair, ask about whether they are retrofitting your a/c system to R-134 or leaving it R-12. Otherwise, if you have any other problems, you may 'have' to retrofit it later.

    We are actually looking at this situation for our customers right now. I'm researching what Lexus recommends for retrofit. As soon as I have info from Lexus, I will be sure to post it.

    As for whether to sell or fix your 91 LS400. I have several customers with this year/model, and I know how great these cars are (even though it was one of the first). They will last and last. You may have repairs, but even newer Lexus' have repairs, and you know the history on this one. That is a major plus for peace of mind.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    You must be operating from a different chemistry book than I am. R-12 refrigerant is a man-made chemical compound of chlorofluorocarbons (CFC's) which has been proven to cause depletion of the Earth's ozone layer. It is absolutely not a natural resource. The Montreal Protocol, an international agreement originally signed in 1987, originally called for a CFC production phaseout by Jan 1, 1996 and total phaseout by 2020. Existing supplies will be available until then. The Kyoto Protocol of December 1997 further reduces allowable CFC'c.

    R-134A is a hydroflourocarbon which has no ODP (oxone depletion potential).
  • silverprincesssilverprincess Member Posts: 75
    I noticed that message #126 was never answered, regarding the speedometer needle light going out. Does anyone know anything about how to go about replacing this? Do I need just a bulb for the needle or does the whole panel LED display need to be replaced (this is what the dealer says needs to be done... can't just replace the single bulb!). I have a '93 LS400. Thanks to anyone who can provide some insight!
  • bradjensenbradjensen Member Posts: 2
    The car is back for the fifth visit to the Lexus dealer. The last time, they replaced the TPS sensor for a second time, saying that the first replacement was defective. Now they have a mechanic driving it to work to try to get it to fail.

    Why? I guess they don't believe me.

    The VSC Off indicator no longer lights when the transmission stops working. But it still has the same problem - while driving (this time about 40 miles per hour,) the car suddenly loses power to the wheels, even though the engine is still running fine.

    It happens without warning, this time it was fine for three days before it messed up.

    Stop the car, turn off the ignition, turn it back on, and it runs fine for hours or days.

    The dealer doesn't want to change the computer, obviously,

    The car is under warranty, so it isn't costing me anything - but who cares? It's lucky that no one has been hurt.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    R-12 is also a hydroflourocarbon and does have ODP.
    It's production begins with methane and subjects to series of chemical reaction with halogens to produces R-12. The raw materials are abundant and cheap. R-12 is costly because of government regulations as well as heavy taxes.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    If you are confortable with going to the dealer for services and willing to cough out big $, then dealership is not a bad choice; otherwise, take your car to an automotive shop specializing in AC which can perform exceptional work for substantially less than a dealer.
    If possible, you should replace the AC pump that is compatible with R-134 and retrofit your AC system to R-134 - it will cost less in the long run if you decided to keep your car. You should also look into replacing the high&low pressure AC hoses which will eventually leak after 10 years of service. Don't let anyone sell you new set of hoses, but rather, have an AC shop rebuilt the hoses at a fraction of the cost of a new set. While you're at it, change the o-ring at the hose connectors to R-134 compatible o-rings.
    Sound like alot? Well, these services are not that atypical for a 10 years old AC system.

    It is important to run the AC system at least once a month for at least 5 minutes to keep the system lubricated and prevent the seals from drying out. Good luck!
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Dirty and worn switches could also cause power windows failure. It requires more current to bring the window up than down, and as a result, the up switch will definitely go before the down switch which is probably why you could bring the window down but not up. As for the intermittent window problem, this may be due to dirty/worn switch contacts and not a dead motor. A dead motor will most likely remains that way and not come back to life intermittenly except for worn brushes.
    Don't let them sell you new motor until you're convinced that the motor is dead. Just runs 12v through the motor to see if it turns - this is how diagnose motor problem.
    As for LCD problems, read previous posts on this thread and you may find your answers.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Lexoman,

    How did they change the transmission fluid to factory fluid? Did they drain the fluid via the drain screw? How much fluid(quarts) did they use to refill?
  • halestonehalestone Member Posts: 1
    Purchased my "92" Ls400 pearl white, in May "99" with 91,000 miles. Since October of "2000" till present 108,000, have dished out $4,000+. Rebuilding power steering pump, master cylinder replaced and all around brake repair, front-end work, struts, bushings, upper control arms, brand new!
    Just had timing belt and water pump replaced with 15,000 mile service. Replaced LCD for temp control and clock from Mikado, thanks for the tip! saved $200 easily. Still looking at AC work! Don't know how much yet, but with my luck lately. Still, after all is said and done, I'll be driving a new car, and what a great car it is!!!!!
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Currently R12 is still available but the costs are between $750 and $850 per 30 lb container when you purchase at least 180 pounds at a time. Our cost are roughly $30 per pound with shipping your systems use a little more than 2 pounds so you may be charged $100 retail for a recharge but due to EPA regulations a leaking system cannot be recharged until the majority of the leaks are fixed.
    If you have to change a compressor, dryer, and evaporator you might as well convert to R134A which cost about $5 per pound.
    The question is how long will R12 still be smuggled into US and when EPA will outlaw it completely my guess is after J Bush leaves office.
    Vote for a 2nd term and save money.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    It is just amazing to me how so many people had the fore thought to keep millions and millions of pounds of R12 stored away in their basements just waiting for a shortage to occur. Distributers always seem to find a hidden cache every year and the labels still look brand new but the dates of manufacture all seem to be about 6-8 years ago.
    Guess we're just lucky to have so many thoughtful people.
    T3 Automotive Atlanta , GA.
    South's largest independent Lexus and Infiniti Repair
  • dealerfloridadealerflorida Member Posts: 50
    These belts rarely ever tear or fail. Actualy service rep's at dealers have almost never seen a torn one, but have changed many at customers request. I personally will just wait until it fails, because this will cause no harm to motor. When replacing a water pump I would certainly spend the extra few bucks and replace the belt.

    1991 that needs A/C, I would change system to new style refigerant and keep car. The suggestion that you know the car is correct, purchasing another one is so risky, I know first hand I am in the business.. The advice that after 10 years A/C will need rebuild is fair. I would also use reputable A/C specialist shop (Non Lexus) that has been, and will be around to honor the warranty you should receive with a rebuild. I would also shop, shop and shop around over the phone questioning and learining from all the shops I called.

    For a full tranny fluid change draining from the plug will not suffice. For a full fluid change you must drop the pan and drain. Check out irontoad.com and you can purchase the proper gaskets, screens and fluid. I would purchase the parts from the toad and bring it to a proffesional tranny shop who has seen and touched LS 400 tranny's before, and have them flush and replace fluid. I have also read in prior posts that there is a Toyota type IV fluid (new type) which is excellent for this car, good luck.

    My LS 400 did not sell on e-bay, there was more bidding on a 200,000 mile car. This really suprised me, both that people would purchase a 200 k car and that mine was passed over with under 100 k and a true one owner??. I have serious considerations of just keeping her, we will see.

    Regards
    Sheldon
  • ferraro1ferraro1 Member Posts: 44
    Hello ~
    My 1994 LS's Ivory Leather interior has a few discoloration areas like on the center console (armrest) it is RED !! under the leather that is not due to wear but I used a HARSH chemical and put to much on that area of the leather , and the passenger seat has a few things, I need to know how to get this fixed , I dun no where to look , by no means do I need the WHOLE seat to be re-colored , do places sell like a bottle of the dye ? or is it much more complicated than that any place on the net , and if I go to Lexus I will just be forking out the $$ left and right so.... if anyone can help please let me know .
    (Long Time Lexus Fan),
    Paul
  • brucer2brucer2 Member Posts: 157
    This site should have what you need:


    http://www.leatherique.com/prod03.htm

  • jeneric21jeneric21 Member Posts: 4
    I need some help. I've been using Eibach springs for the LS400 for some time and I now could use some shocks. However, it appears that there are not too many aftermarket suppliers for the 1995 model year.

    This is what I found:

    KYB sells only the fronts
    Tokico lists shocks from 1990 to 1994; but Carparts.com lists the shocks to 1997.
    I believe Bilstein does not offer any.
    I'm sure Tein from Japan makes them but I didn't want to go that extreme.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
  • fkavanaufkavanau Member Posts: 1
    I'm frustrated with my dealer and with Lexus consumer service. At 40,000 miles my 1998 LS400 front brakes give an audible pop the first time that they are applied after getting underway. The dealer says it is the brake pads shifting in the calipers. They say it can be fixed but it not covered by the warranty or certification and is considered normal wear and tear. Since my front pads have at least another 20,000 miles on them I cannot see how this is normal wear and tear. Lexus in California was no help and simply deferred to the dealer. Am dissapointed to be treated this way - no more Toyota products for me. Frank
  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    i think i would ask lexus to replace the computer. i have a 1996LS, after driving 75 -100 miles,when coasting to a stop, the engine would go dead.turn the ignition key to off, and it would start right back up.they tried replacing sensors, but nothing worked until the computer was replaced. i was told by an atlanta dealership that there was a tsb out on my problem. maybe you should check with different dealerships to see if they know of your problem.
  • dealerfloridadealerflorida Member Posts: 50
    Yes I too have the popping brakes. It seems there is a fitting kit, and shims used on these systems. These 2 items help put the pads in place inside the caliper. I was quite taken aback as I have never heard of fitting kits or shims for disc brakes before. I wish the car did not have them, because as you say the pads (Mine as well) are still good! with much "meat" left on them. The popping noise is nasty, not appropiate for a car of this caliber. You can purchase the fitting kits and shims at irontoad.com for a resonable price. Maybe then you can have a shop (Non Lexus) replace them for a fair cost.

    For the Gentleman with the shock issue, I suggest trying advice from Ryan at irontaod.com he know quite a lot about lexus parts and sells factory parts way below retail prices.

    Good luck
    Sheldon
  • m81m81 Member Posts: 1
    The remote entry key on my 1990 LS 400 seems to have failed. The key worked until I replaced the battery. Is there some kind of reset procedure?
    How can I determine if the key or the receiver has failed, and what is the best option for repairing or replacing the key.

    Thank you!
  • kimsingerkimsinger Member Posts: 12
    The only problem, such as it is, that I have with my LS400 concerns its behaviour immediately upon starting from cold, especially in winter, and I'd be very interested to hear any views or, ideally, any solution people might have.

    As soon as I start the engine each morning, the revs rise immediately to around 1500 rpm (1200 or so in summer). They do come down fairly quickly as the car approaches operating temperature, but during that initial 4-5 minute period during which the idle speed is raised to that level, the process of engaging Drive is, as you might expect, a bit clunky. The problem is made worse by the fact that I live in a fairly built up area and I almost always have to stop the car about
    40 yards from my house at the first set of traffic lights. At that point, I engage neutral - simply because I don't like having to hold the car stationary on the brakes against the urging of the engine. And so, of course, this clunky, jerking process of engaging Drive is repeated at those lights and at every other stoppage I encounter until the car has warmed up. I suppose it's not really a major problem, and to my surprise, I've been told many times by various people whose opinions I have sought that it may not actually be a fault at all but simply a design feature. However, I do find it very irritating and would love to get rid of it if at all possible.

    Thanks.

    Kim Singer (Mr.)
    kim@singer.screaming.net
  • brucer2brucer2 Member Posts: 157
    Just about all cars have a high idle speed when cold to help them warm up faster to help meet emissions laws. This causes the harder shift. You don't say if your car is new, or what the milage is. It is my understanding that the LS400 uses synthetic ATF from the factory. Synthetic ATF maintains its viscosity at low temperatures (doesn't get as thick). This helps prevents the harsh shifts when cold. If your transmission has had its fluid changed, perhaps conventional fluid was used instead of synthetic. The other thing you can do is just not shift into neutral. I always did this too for 30 years, until it was pointed out to me that wear of the transmission parts takes place every time it is shifted. Leaving it in gear, at least for the first couple of lights, will cause the transmission fluid to come up to operating temperature faster.
  • kimsingerkimsinger Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for your advice, Bruce. The car is actually a '95 Mark III with less than 30,000 miles.

    I know that some cars do idle faster when cold, but the reason I am seeking a fix for this is that, firstly, I know someone with the same model who doesn't have the problem and, secondly, I find it hard to believe that Lexus would build a car that is so smooth in practically every other way, but so jerky in this one respect.

    As it happens, I did have the transmission fluid changed a year or so ago, but the idle problem has been with me since before that.

    The point you make about the merits of leaving it in gear is interesting, and I, too, have heard that it's OK to do this. I must admit, though, that it's hard to believe this can be true - especially when you're waiting at lights with a powerful engine revving so fast that you can hear the brakes creaking under the strain of holding the car in place. Apart from the strain on the brake system's components, how can this scenario be seen as anything other than a major waste of the engine's energy and, of course, fuel?
  • rdwcdwrdwcdw Member Posts: 8
    My LS also has a long time before it drops down to normal idle, the dealers service writer told me this is normal, I also have seen a update on the computer for the 1990 LS and something about Idle was was listed, I to would like to know if all the 1st gens have the high idle on start up or all the LS have the problem.
  • kimsingerkimsinger Member Posts: 12
    Jonathan: Your car revs at 1,700 rpm when cold? Wow - that seems fast to me. How do you manage? I mean, would I be right in assuming that, if you don't press down hard on the brake pedal prior to selecting Drive, you'd be in serious danger of sustaining whiplash injuries as the car hurtles out of your driveway? Don't you have to let it warm up a bit first or something?
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    The ecu controlled idle speed is a function of the coolant temperature as are all newer cars to some degree, the colder the ambient the faster it idles when first cranked and the idle slows down progressively as the coolant warms.
    Normally a lux car would be in a heated garage and then allowed to warm up 5-7 minutes before one would drive away, this way all the fluids -trans, power steering, oil, coolant would warm up to operating temperature to extend the engine and transmission life. Driving away cold is a sure way to stress the components.
    T3 Automotive LTD, maintains over 400 LS 400 in Atlanta as well as Infiniti models over 3,000 clients.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    I don't have the patience to sit in the car for 7+ minutes for every cold start. Instead, I installed an aftermarket alarm with remote start working in conjunction with factory alarm (not too difficult). This helps quite a bit, but on some occasions, I had to start the engine cold.

    One should avoid engaging the transmission when the idle speed is high. Doing so will create sudden high stress on the transmission, U-joints, differential, CV-joints, mounts, etc...

    One way to reduce transmission engaging stress at high idle is to engage the transmission without pressing on the brake(watch out for objects or people in your path). Once the transmission is engaged, gradually apply the brake to slow down or stop the car if necessary.

    Here is my procedure:
    1. release the parking brake
    2. apply the brake to allow shifting lever to get out of park.
    3. move lever to R or D and immediately release the brake(before the transmission engages).
    4. let the car move a bit(~3 feet).
    5. apply the brake if necessary.
  • kimsingerkimsinger Member Posts: 12
    It seems the issue of whether this raised idle is normal or not is still open to debate . I don't exactly disagree with anything anyone else has said on the subject here, but I still hope and believe that it will ultimately be found to be a fault - at least in my own car. That way, there is more hope of dealing with it once the true cause is established.

    Two things make me convinced that a cold idle speed of 1,700 + is not normal in these cars. Firstly, as I've said, a contact of mine with the same car as me does not have the problem. His car starts at around 700 rpm - and stays there. If his car can do this, I reckon mine should be able to do the same. Put another way, out of the two vehicles, which one should we suppose is running correctly? Mine - with all the clunks and the jolts - or his, with the smoothness you normally associate with a Lexus?

    Secondly, not all modern cars are so afflicted. In fact, my wife's BMW behaves exactly like the above Lexus. It starts as it means to go on - no fuss, no bother and no need to rig up aftermarket alarms with remote starts working in conjunction with factory alarms etc. etc.

    Surely, of all car manufacturers, Lexus should be expected to come up with at least as good a warm-up system as our 10-year-old BMW which does not, therefore, give owners as much as hassle and inconvenience as seems to be the case at the moment.
  • atagatacatagatac Member Posts: 5
    I have a 92 LS400 with 114K miles on it. I just noticed a slow leak under the power steering reservoir. I don't know if that is the power steering pump under it. I don't see any leak on my floor. Should I have the power pump replaced or just have the pump repealed? I just bought this car last month and very happy with it. Please help. I need an honest shop where I can bring this car. The old owner has been taking it to Logo and I don't like to pay those ridiculous amount of $$ to maintain this car.
  • atagatacatagatac Member Posts: 5
    I have a 92 LS400 with 114K miles on it. I just noticed a slow leak under the power steering reservoir. I don't know if that is the power steering pump under it. I don't see any leak on my floor. Should I have the power pump replaced or just have the pump resealed? I just bought this car last month and very happy with it. Please help. I need an honest shop where I can bring this car. The old owner has been taking it to Longo Lexus and I don't like to pay those ridiculous amount of $$ to maintain this car. One other thing, what kind of leather conditioner do you recommend for this car and how often should I maintain those leather seats?
  • ferraro1ferraro1 Member Posts: 44
    Hello ~
    Well it has happened to you , the ominous power steering failure, yes the power steering fluid you are seeing is a leak , and the best thing to do is get a new power steering pump, I had mine replaced on my 1994 this winter @ Lexus it was $800 + with Labor but check around and see if you can do any better but remember to always have fluid in your resavior before you get it repaired!. As far as leather care I would reccomed Lexol it is a good product.
    Wish you lots of luck !
    Happy LS Owner,
    Paul
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Whether to replace or reseal depends on how much you want to spend. Sure it's good to replace with new parts, but why throw away the entire thing if only part of it is dysfunctional? I would reseal it myself (I have heard others resealed with success), but if you're not mechanical, then pay someone to do it. Most likely, you'll have to replace it since car mechanics prefer a replacement due to financial and temporal reasons.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    I actually prefer cars with cold idle higher than warm idle for many good reasons stated earlier. I just don't like the cold idle to be too high and stay high too long. The ideal condition would be 1300-1400rpm at 1-2minutes cold, after which warming would be done while driving.
  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    my 92 ls seems to be harder to steer than normal. is this the pump or pressure valve not working properly?
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    I actually prefer cars with cold idle higher than warm idle for many good reasons stated earlier. I just don't like the cold idle to be too high and stay high too long. The ideal condition would be 1300-1400rpm at 1-2minutes cold, after which warming would be done while driving.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    The 2 book [each 2.5" thick] diagnostic manuals describes everything including the normal idle vs cold idle.
    It's amazing that people who spend $60-$30k on a car don't consider this option.
    If you made enough to afford a luxo sport I have every confidence in your ability to read the English language.

    The number one fault with Lexus is that if you don't change your power steering fluid regularly the hoses will leak and the leak will saturate the alternator causing it to fail.
    Don't let the leak continue or you'll end up spending a quick $1200 to correct the problem...the PS groaning is caused by the internal filter being plugged up from crud and a pump failure is not far away!
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Fast cold idle is necessary to heat the precats/cats to meet the 1990 and 1996 EPA regulations for cold start emissions. Also modern electronically controlled transmissions need the ATF to be up to 120F before they will shift correctly.
    To protect you from doing the things that would be detrimential to engine and trans life the engine computers attempt to override your attempts to destroy the car by cranking and driving away cold!
  • rdwcdwrdwcdw Member Posts: 8
    Maybe what we need is for people to post if they have a High Idle when cold this way we can see what years seem to do the High Idle thing,then we can use this info to see if it is a sensor or something that with age is changing. How About it people lets start posting.
  • bratcliffbratcliff Member Posts: 3
    I have 91 LS 400 with 156000 miles. Have had brake rotors replaced 8000 miles ago. Now it is necessary to have them turned every 1-2K miles due to warping. One mechanic said wheel bearings needed replacing while another said they were fine. That was 8000 miles ago when rotors and brake pads were replaced. Could this be causing the rotor problem? Or could it be something else? Any information would be helpful.
  • silverprincesssilverprincess Member Posts: 75
    Anyone ever have this problem?

    I'm driving my 93LS400 (w/ 120k miles) on highway and have the AC on for a good 30 minutes or so. Outside temperature is about 60-70 F. I'm in stop and go traffic, I see the temp. gauge rising to about the middle mark, and when I turn off the AC, suddenly the engine just shuts off with no warning! I veer off to the shoulder to avoid getting rear-ended, set it to Park, and restart the engine and no more problem.

    This past weekend it happened again, except this time I was sailing at about 60-70mph w/ AC on (outside temp around 70 F) for about 45 minutes. I noticed the temp. gauge go up again, I pull off to an exit, and after about 10 minutes on local streets, when I turn off the AC, BAM! the engine shuts down again!

    Any ideas, anyone???
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    I posted my data earlier. Here they are again:

    1700rpm for ~6minutes with 50F ambient.

    What are yours, rdwcdw?
  • rdwcdwrdwcdw Member Posts: 8
    The same as yours 1700 5 to 7 mins.1990 AS 400
  • jabeelerjabeeler Member Posts: 2
    I guess all cars have some degree of problems, but you guys sound pretty happy with your LS400s. My problem is, I don't know anything about vehicles and if I don't get good service at the dealership I might as well have bought a Yugo.
    I have seen mention of 5* dealerships. How do I find out if mine is a 5*? BB report is good but vague.
    I recently surrendered my Grand Caravan lease. The service dept. was so good (ALWAYS had parts and a loner) I was tempted to buy another---but I want an LS400!
  • dealerfloridadealerflorida Member Posts: 50
    Q45man, thank you for your many informative posts.

    I am interested in purchasing the manual's for my 1992 LS 400. Where can I purchase them? Lexus or after market, please advise. I agree these books are very important to owners of older units.

    Also please tell me how often, or when the power steering fluid should be changed? I did not know this was the cause of the pump failure. I wonder if there is a way to change or clean the filter as you mentioned it get's "Full of crud" or by changing the fluid regularly the crud does not build up. Can I change the P/steer fluid myself? is it difficult?
    I also have the popping or cracking noises coming from the from brakes. I was considering new fitting kit - shims, rotors and pads. Can I just replace pads & fitting kit with turning rotors? (SAVE THE COST OF NEW ROTORS). When I press brake pedal now I feel a vibration in steering wheel, something is out of round and only felt when applying brakes from speeds above 25 MPH.

    I also have the transmission shudder when downshifting (Tourqe converter?). In earlier posts I saw a suggestion to flush and change fluid to type IV and replace screen. In your experience does this solve the problem?

    Best regards, and thanks again for your input.
    Sheldon
  • mhartlessmhartless Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1992 LS400 with 123kmi.

    The cold idle is 1.3k at 45 degree ambient for those interested. Only a modest surge when putting into gear. I never warm up the car for more than a minute...I just try to drive easy for the first few minutes to let her warm up.

    I also had the transmission shudder and changing the transmission fluid fixed it....I did not use the new type IV but did have the entire amount of fluid changed i.e. not just removing the plug and draining it. This was done at a local shop and not at the Lexus dealer...total cost $70.

    Thanks for all the info from everyone ...My LS400 is the best car I've ever owned!
  • rdwcdwrdwcdw Member Posts: 8
    Hi mhartless they might have used DEX III for your flush on your trans, this could destroy your transmission you should have only T-IV put in it cost more, but not as much as a trans As to manuals I bought mine from Irontoad.com not cheap 160.00. As far a the steering stuff goes I suck the fuild out of the pump from on top and refill about 4 times driving in between fills, I do this once a year on all my cars,I use a vacuum pump but you could use a turkey baster,you could pull the return line off and crank the engine, I buy the Valvoline synthetic, the fiters are not easy, one is in the control valve on the rack, not fun to get at, the other one is in the filler neck on the pump, dont use a carbon based cleaner to clean them it will melt the plastic screen.
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