Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Longest Lasting Car On The Road
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Current
96 ford t-bird 4.6l auto 245k miles
Its only had a few minor problems.
93 ford taurus 3.8l auto 204k miles
Trans is about dead and its ate a couple alts and a/c parts
mine 67 ford galaxie 390 auto 243k miles
I rebuilt the engine at 220k and the trans is getting weak.
Past
77 mercedes 280e 220k-300k(it only showed 175k but the odemeter only worked when it felt like it)
Lots of little stuff and lots of jerry rigging over the 12 years they owned it but the engine and trans were solid. The body was it major weak spot. By the time we gave it to my uncle the bottem of the fenders, doors, and trunk were more or less gone
mine 81 dodge mirada the amazine /6 auto 195k miles
It was a /6 do I need to say anything else
82 ford mustang gt 302 4 speed 250k atleast
It had low oil pressure and started blowing rear main seals every 10k miles or so.
81 dodge rampage 2.2l 5 speed 280k
The only thing I remember going out was the a/c compressor and something in the trans.
There were a bunch of others but I was too young to care when we had them
1979 Buick Regal 3.8L V6 -- 142,000 miles, two waterpumps, three exhaust systems
1985 Buick Regal 3.8L V6 -- 189,000 miles, still strong when son totaled. Two waterpumps, four exhaust system (from cat. back), one transmission (before mentioned son dropped it into reverse at 75 miles/hr).
1993 Chevy Lumina 3.4 -- 218,000 miles NOTHING. Traded after totaled.
All cars got manufacturer recommended work. Oil changes every 3000 miles with Dino.
Now for me--
1996 Geo Metro -- 190,000 miles, nothing, only recommend maintance. Traded it when I needed something nicer.
260k+ Miles, original engine, 4th transmission (2 replaced under warranty), 3rd A/C compressor...
Darkwolf, I saw an early 80's Cordoba in the junkyard on Saturday. It had just come in, and hadn't been parted out yet, although it had stock #'s written all over the body panels and glass. Ready for processing, I guess. I don't know what was wrong with it, but it still looked to be in really good shape. I was almost tempted to ask how much they'd take for the whole car. Judging from the condition of the interior, I'd guess it had less than 100K miles on it. Just past the break-in period, I guess!
I seen some people mention doing/keeping spreadsheets to figure cost per mile their vehicle is costing them. Can someone enlgihten me with the details as how to do this. I'd like to see how my car is doing. Thanks.
Leo
It's my first post, so I hope I'm not being too rude. ... but the topic intrigued me.
My longest lasting car is actually a truck...a 1988 Chev Silverado 4x4 2500. I have to brag about the mileage though - 408,231 miles! Even my mechanic can't believe it. The weird part is that it runs better than most of the other vehicles I've owned.
I don't know if the 350 is the original engine but by the looks of the truck when I got it two years ago, someone used it for a LOT of highway driving in some kind of service company. The body isn't awesome and I've done a lot of body work on it, but mechanically it's amazing - the only 'major' work I've had to do was a $450 exhaust system rebuild. Other than that I add a bit of oil now and then and drive the daylights out of it. Gee, at this mileage it's not like it's going to depreciate :-)
FWIW, I have friend with a 356 convertible with over 500k (I think 520k, but I'm not sure). Do I win a cookie?
If you want, I can email you one of my spreadsheets, and you can play around with it to suit your tastes.
Thanks for playing.
Yes they have spent money AC, PS, shocks, timing belts, reseals, suspension, wheel bearings, some displays,etc.
We do total fluid exchanges every year [$600]and I doubt they spend more than 10 cents per mile on maintenance and repairs but again $2500 per year would seem excessive to many but cheap to LUX owners.
Of course, you need a good car to start with!
-ss4 (non-lux owner)
BMW 7-series, an older Benz, a Jaguar or Porsche, you'd better spend $200 a month on it or suffer the consequences.
You have to remember that there's something unheard of before that will happen to the cars of 2001. Once they are out of warranty, if something major goes wrong with them, many of them won't be worth fixing,
Case in point: Early 90s luxury imports....you blow an engine you've blown $10K, and many of those early 90s cars are barely worth that as good running used cars.
Thanks,
Leo
vetteryan@hotmail.com
Thanks
Ryan
Leo
Leo
As for fuel, I kept that out partly because I was just lazy! I used to deliver pizzas, and sometimes filled up several times per week. There's no way I would've been able to keep very accurate records. Usually what I do is just figure whatever tank of gas I'm on into the equation. For instance, if I just drove 300 miles and it took $15.00 to fill up, the car was costing me 5 cents a mile in fuel, which I just mentally add on to the other costs. I do keep a log book in the car that I use to write down the date, mileage, $ amount, and # of gallons for that fill-up. If I got the ambition, I guess I could transfer all that info into the spreadsheet some day!
Leo
I keep two separate spreadsheets for all me cars.
Sheet number one just tracks gas mileage. After every fill-up I enter the date, the mileage at fill-up, the number of gallons and the cost of the fill-up. The spreadsheet then calculates the MPG for that tank, average MPG over the life of the car, sums the total fuel used in gallons and in dollars over the life of the car. This has become a habit and my wife even complies for her car. Every time we get gas we just write the mileage from the odometer on the top of the receipt. Then I just enter the info from the receipt into the computer.
Sheet number two calculates the operating cost. At the end of every month I enter the total fuel cost for that month (from the first spreadsheet), any taxes, insurance, payments, maintenance costs and repair costs (these are separate columns). Then I enter the starting miles on the odometer at the beginning of the month (this is the ending miles from the previous month) and the ending miles (this is the mileage from my last fill-up of the month). The spreadsheet then calculates the total miles driven that month, total miles driven since owning the car, total cost for the month, total cost since owning the car, cost per mile for the month and average cost per mile since owning the car. The spreadsheet then also keeps a running total for repair costs and maintenance costs.
It's interesting to monitor all the costs over the life of the car. What becomes very apparent is how small of a percentage of the total cost is from maintenance.
If anyone wants, I can e-mail these Excel spreadsheets as well.
Also, have you considered including the purchase price on your spreadsheet, plus any loan interest, and computing the cost-per-mile of ownership (not just operation)?
Curious. Thanks.
I think my Intrepid's averaging about $.22 a mile, + about $.06 a mile for fuel, + $.02 a mile for insurance (2 years of premiums so far, $560 a year, divided by 55,000 miles).
So I'm right around $.30 a mile, which, interestingly enough, is about what the government allows you to write off if you use your car for business purposes. I think it's actually $.35 a mile or something like that.
$.30 a mile probably sounds really high, but keep in mind that includes a $2000 down payment, + $347.66 a month in payments. If I do 2000 miles a month, just the payment is coming out to about $.17 a mile!
Now I'm starting to think I want to compute my ownership costs...
"We have the technology."
It doesn't leak any oil!
He has had routine maintenance such as replacing brakes, exhaust, belts, seals, batteries etc. He did have to re upholster the seats and put in new carpeting.
Car is driven daily 30 miles round trip to work. Body is in great shape with no rust! He did Ziebart the car when it was new and takes the car back each year for an annual re spray. It must work since there isn't any rust!
I compile the cost of ownership for my '94 Toyota Paseo. Did it at home with pen and paper so hopefully my math added up right after 7 years of ownership. Figuring in the downpayment, payments, and early payoff(guesstimate), plus ownership over seven years at mileage of 175,000 I came out to $0.13/mile.
I guesstimated the insurance at around $750/yr for 7 yrs (purposely errored on high side) which came to $0.16/mile
Conservatively estimated 35 mpg for gas over the 175,000 miles = 5000 gallons of gas. Which I guesstimate an average of $1.25 per gallon for gas. Finall cost of ownership for everything= $0.20/mile.
So all told, my Toyota Paseo is cost me 20 cents per mile to drive.
Compiling the data sheet did shed some light regardimg my car's maintenence records.
Leo
And I am envious of your annual insurance cost.
-ss4
It figures your cost/mile, MPG and projected annual mileage for that vehicle.
I was kinda shocked for a while when the 87 LeSabre spiked to $0.39/mile after rebuilding the transmission, but that was in October and I just started collecting data in August.
So I expect it to drop back to a reasonable under $0.20/mile over the next year or so.
FWIW
TB
Which go's to show...you never know, I guess.
And..WOW! some of you sure drive a lot!
Thanks everybody for all the cookies.
Given that pretty tough standard, definitely some cars have been harder to encourage up to that standard than others. Some cars seem to need "nursing" all their lives...they don't want to work too hard; other can take anything you can dish out. I guess you might say some cars are just a bit "fragile" and require lots of maintenance.
dave
I can tell you absolutely that a B18 or B20 camshaft will certainly not last 800,000 miles. It would be lucky to go 80,000.
So let me ask everyone, What mileage do you expect/demand you car to acquire with minimum repair/maintenence cost???
What $$$ limit do set for car repairs/maintenence before deciding it's no longer worth it???
Leo
Leo
As far as willingness to spend money, I think it depends entirely (for me) on how interesting the car is. If I had, say, an early Bronco and it needed a new C4 (or whatever those have)...no problem, spend the 600-1000 dollars. If I had a zillion mile Ford Explorer needing a new transmission for 1500 dollars or whatever, I'd sure think twice about it.
In terms of beaters...I'd say somewhere between 500 and 1000 bucks is my point of pain. Any more than that is a no-brainer, less is a no-brainer (if it implies throwing the car away or not). Where the whole thing gets tricky is in estimating *future* repairs and whether you are throwing away bad money after good.
As far as demanding minimum repair or maintenance, I'm not really wired that way. What I *hate* is absurdly high repair costs, especially for subsidiary systems (A/C maybe, or seat butt warmers). If you own a 1971 Chevy 1/2 truck, probably the most expensive thing you could fix (aside from extensive body work) is the engine at 1000 or so dollars new (with warranty) from GM. If you own a late model, out of warranty, M5, the skies the limit. I'll bet there's dozens of subsystems (like ABS, for example) that could cost multi-thousands if the planets were lined up just right.
This is probably a statement better suited to the 'disposable car' thread, but I think that over time people are becoming hyper-aware of warranty mileage and time limits. I'll bet there are serious shelfs in car values as the more complex models fall off warranty. V12 BMW's may well last 250,000 miles, but the potential for costing an arm and a leg (maybe both legs) is an obvious reality.