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Maxima 5-speed Problems
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I've tried the low-speed tests to see if my car will lurch or buck and neither has occured. The only sensitivity noticable is the transition between on the throttle and off the throttle around 2500 rpm - there seems to be too much engine braking when you release the throttle. However, this is not as dramatic as the prior inability to launch the car smoothly - before the TSB. In my opinion it's not that bad - hopefully a future TSB will correct it. (During the 'idle' test my car still drops rpm's from 2500 to 1500 rapidly, but I don't know if this has any practical negative consequence.)
For the record my Max is a 2001 SE, stick, with 17" wheels - it was manufactured 02/01.
Now the only thing that has me riled up is the missing fuel intake line protector. I'm going to start a separate thread on this. Although, one call to Nissan may have taken care of it - for me anyway.
Enjoy your Maxima. I do.
Ed A.
P.S. Where are the comments from all the other people that had the TSB done? Too busy enjoying the car?
I agree that the car launches better with the TSB applied, but without realizing it, you are probably blipping the gas pedal just before starting out and then releasing it before releasing the clutch. The engine rpm's can't be feathered up for a smooth launch in first gear because the engine rpm's immediately race so high that the car wants to lay rubber and run into anything and everything that happens to be its path.
My car is fine on downhills, uphills and in-between. I can feather the throttle at any speed without any jerking or lurching. I feel completely in control of the throttle. As I said above, the only thing I feel is slightly too much engine braking when the throttle is released above 2500 rpm - but no jerking. Getting back on the throttle does not jerk the car either. (This is in comparsion to my MR2, which I drove for 11 years.)
I am absolutely not blipping the throttle (at all) or feathering the clutch (more than normal). Before the TSB, my car had to be feathered excessively with the clutch to accelerate smoothly. Now it takes off perfectly - every time, fast or slow.
You may check it out if you'd like, I'm in the D.C. area.
And again, my car was manufactured in February 2001. Perhaps the difference can be explained by updated parts for recent 2001 models and/or the varying TSB reprograms - there are six "current" versions, depending on year/emissions/wheel size.
My car really does run/drive very well. I hope yours improves with other TSB's.
Ed A.
It sounds like the TSB is a pretty significant improvement over the original ECM program. I'm getting mine done this afternoon...will report back with my observations.
Green
Green
Mark
No more anticipation when feathering the pedal up or down!
No more bucking in parking lots!
No annoying lurch when the cruise is on!
I'm still a little pissed that it took so long though.
I personally would like to thank bigk200 for the amount of time and effort he put into this crusade. He lit the fire under Nissan's [non-permissible content removed] for sure. Also, thanks for hanging in there. If I had been half as annoyed has you I would have driven the damn thing off a cliff. Good luck in whatever you decide to do with your car.
It was good seeing you guys there, lets get together again soon.
Mark
Green
Mark
This test is relevant because it indicates how the car will behave when feathering the throttle back on moderate downhills, and/or when feathering the throttle up to accelerate moderately at slow speeds.
Yes, Just like bigk said, If I rev the engine up to at around 3000 RPM, the fuel cut still kicks in at 2500 rpm...haven't tried to hold it at other speeds yet.
I think it sucks that this re-program works only for certin people...i just want to thank you all that have stuck with this problem and pressed Nissan to do something about it. I don't think enough credit is given to those people that tried, and some still trying, to make Nissan fix this nasty problem.
Thanks and good luck!
Green
I consider davedzny an expert automotive technician and is highly qualified, and rightly so, to make a diagnosis on this issue. After he has driven my car on numerous occasions, he agrees that my car has minimal adverse effects of the "Fuel Cut" issue. Yes, the idle drops from 2500 to 1500 to 700, and there is a slight rpm rise between shifts, but there is no bucking while in gear, so go figure.
I will not be electing to have the TSB performed, as are maximizd and Jorge, who's 2K Maxima's also drive fine.
maxmized - You are the quintessential Maxima enthusist! The only thing you ain't got is a Maxima tattoo, too bad the Mrs. squashed that idea real fast...
Mark
Good Luck.
Click here for the hyperlink to Nissan Maxima
I didn't have the bad lower RPM fuel cut so bad, driving in traffic was never a problem. I had a cold stumbling problem and something I just got used too, I had to "blip" the throttle before I could start from a stand still or it would stall.
It hasn't been cold enough to prove the stumbling is gone yet, but I can definitly start out smoother now, and all around drivability seems improved. (maybe in my head though)
Now I just have to reprogram my head not to blip any more after doing it for 2 years.
Thanks for all the info on this board, both were fixed for free due to links posted here.
One thing that nobody has mentioned, to my knowledge: you must have all the keys and remotes reprogrammed at the same time the computer is fixed. If you try to use a key that hasn't been reset, my dealer says you will be locked out and will have to have the car towed to a dealer for a complete reprogram. I had to make a quick trip back with the other keys.
Several people on this board have been glowing about how their Maxima has been "fixed"... However, my observations are the same as yours regarding the cycling/lurching that still occurs under light throttle conditions.
The problem is not completely fixed, no matter how much people want to believe that it is.
Any feedback that you guys can be provide would be great.
The other question I now have, is that since y'all have experienced this phenomina, and having dealt with the dealers, would any of you repeat your purchase of your Maxima?
Hello all,
I have been following the conversations here recently and have found alot of good information.
My wife and I test drove the 20th anniversary edition Maxima today and are very impressed. We are thinking of maybe going back to the dealer and seeing if we can't strike a deal this car.
The car we drove was a 5 speed manual and I noticed that when accelerating the sifter seemed to "float" (for lack of better word). It felt like it would move back slightly or move forward slightly depending upon if you were speeding up or slowing down.
My wife also said that she notice that while cruising an a nominal speed (around 45 mph) that the car would kind of skip every now and then. I did not notice this when I drove it, but I have to admit that I put the 227 horses to good use and did cruise while I was driving.
Has anybody else notice any of these two things. They are just slight issues as far as I am concerned, however I want to make sure that this isn't a sign of bigger problems. The car we test drove had about 1K miles on it so I am wondering if this might not be a sign of some abuse.
Any insights would be terrific, this would be our first Nissan and I just want to make sure I am not missing something here.
In regard to your wife noticing how the car would "skip" every now and then when cruising at 45 mph, that is EXACTLY a symptom of the fuel cut problem that has been discussed at length here on this forum. It occurs when the driver is trying to obtain small amounts of engine power, which is typical at moderate speeds on flat or moderate downhill roads.
To read a full description of the fuel cut problem, go to message #3 in this forum. It can be accessed using the input box in the upper left corner of this screen.
Anyone else find that shifting to 1st is difficult to do? It's not a smooth as going to 2nd - 5th and into reverse....it's been this way since day 1...just wondering if it's me....
I still have problems launching smmothly even with the TSB done, since I still cannot keep constant RPMs below 3000 or so.
What part of the country do you all live in? I'm in Kansas City. Opimax (Mark) is making a pilgramage to KC in early July. Were gonna get together and compare cars for an hour or two.
If you do a lot of stop and go driving, then it may bother you more. Also, if you like to cruise around at 35 or 40 mph in 3rd gear on streets with rolling hills, then it might begin to REALLY bother you.
It is isn't something that will get worse with time.
Your "bumpy" description is a somewhat accurate characterization. The times when it is the most maddening is when you try to ease off of the gas pedal to slow the engine down slightly. Just as the engine fails the stationary test, you will discover that you can't just "ease off" of the gas pedal. You will either get a lot of power or the fuel cut, but nothing in between.
You say you are in the mid-west... what city are you in?
I have another question. On certain roads, for example the ones with little raised seams every 50 feet or so, I detect a light "thumping" noise coming from the rear of the Max. This occurs at moderate speeds 45 to 50 mph. Sounds almost like the spare tire might be loose but I think that's probably too simple. Could it be the 17 in Bridgestone tires? Anyone else experiece this symtom?
I also forgot to mention that not everyone is happy with the TSB. I do not believe that it really fixes the problem, but you will have to judge for yourself.
Mark
Thank you for your comments.
Mark A
opimax@aol.com
When you step on the gas, the computer opens the idle control valve and allows more air into the engine than what you are allowing with the gas pedal. As you begin to let up on the gas pedal, the idle control valve remains open. Although you are trying to deprive the engine of air by releasing the gas pedal, it continues to get air through the idle control valve. Therefore, as you let off the gas, the engine continues to produce more power than you want... and then, when you have completely released the gas pedal, the computer sees a "closed throttle" voltage from the TPS (throttle position sensor), and it subsequently cuts fuel to the engine.
It is NOT in your head and it is not related to the transmission... it is caused by excess air through the idle control valve.
http://www.dspaceinc.com/en/Products/PCGS.htm
It would be great if someone could reverse engineer the ECU with this software or something similar.......
Dave Z
Now, some advice please...how badly am I getting jerked around here.
I went to the Nissan dealer to get the fuel cut fix done.
The service manager after having my car all day told me that they were having problems with their computer. Well, it's been a couple of weeks now and they are still claiming that they can't download the program to their handheld.
Is this a common problem and why is it taking them so long to fix it?
Joe? any input....should I find another dealer to get it done?
Dave
I will tell you that my 2001 has the fuel cut off problem in EVERY GEAR when the Tach is below 2200! Obviously it is most noticable in the lower gears. Once above 2200, the throttle is sweet. I am hoping the TSB corrects the problem for all gears.
I just heard about a brake rotor TSB. I bought the car w/ 185 miles on it, and drove it according to the breakin schedule in the owners manual. After 1000 miles, the first time I got on the brakes hard, I could feel the steering wheel shaking which signified rotor warpage. Where can I find the info on the rotor TSB.
http://216.122.219.59/forums/showthread.php?s=ceb2ede2eca1849be166370d7789c499&threadid=29351,
tell them you are ready to start a new relationship for service and butter them up!
Still have warpage after replaced 4 rotors and turned the fronts once already after that, dealer says if it continues that is written down and they will be able to take care of me, and they are doing real well now, happy to say (Gaitherburg Nissan in MD)! good luck!
Mark