Hey Dangerdude! I found this information for you. It was written buy a guy called Dave on Teamswift. Your belt must be insanely tight to avoid squealing but there's a problem with this... the tighter you crank that belt up, the more wear and tear you'll be putting on your waterpump and alternator bearings. If you're not careful, you could crack the waterpump housing from the compression stress you're putting on the tensioning bracket where it attaches to the waterpump.
If you're tightening the belt a LOT, then there's something else wrong. You shouldn't need to use anything more than a 2' crow/pry bar and the weight of your arm to tighten the belt. Perhaps a bit more of a tug if that doesn't solve the problem. No need to be hanging off of (or even using) a 2x4" to get the belt to the proper tension. It's an easy one-person job. If you find yourself straining to keep the tension while tightening the bolt on the tensioning bracket, you've got the belt WAAAY too tight. That's a good way to set a belt up to snap when you're too far away from a replacement one.
Also, check the pivot bolts and nuts under the alternator. If they're loose, you won't be able to get the right tension. When they're properly tightened (after you tension the belt), the stress of the stretched belt will be spread more evenly around the mounting points of the alternator, reducing the chance of breaking mounts off. They should be tight enough that you can't move the alternator with your hand, and moving it with that crow/pry bar is almost impossible. Have fun, Vanilla Latte.
DangerDude- yup, been there-done that. I found that the cheap-o belts sing loudly no matter what. So I took off the belt- trashed it, put on a top quality belt, and presto! no more noise... yes I tried the belt grip drssing and everything. And yes the guy is right, not too tight you'll be replacing the idler, or pump / alternator. When you have the belt off -check to see if the pulley(s) are glazed over, or have oil on them- never get oil, silicone near the pulley ! Use a qualty cleaner to remove the glaze if any... Good Luck !
Thank you gentlemen .. I fully understand the consequences of the "too-tight" belt and trashing neighboring bearings! Pipsqueak is far too valuble to risk owner induced damage. Anyway, I just changed the timing belt, water pump, front oil seal and alternator (and belt). Don't want to revisit those jobs again for another 100K miles! Sure do appreciate the information. We're now doing light bodywork to regain our youthful gloss. DangerBabe took Pipsqueak today and I had to drive a Ford Taurus wagon??? There goes my dangerous image!! (hah) DangerDude
The filling tube, the part just after the trap door, is made with a smaller siamese tube welded to it. The whole shebang is dipped in a hard rubber type of protection. Nevertheless, if moisture gets to the area where the weld is... bingo, rust develops and you have a leak... in the rear. Easy to replace but the cost of a new tube is horrendous. I had that problem and mortgaged my goldfish.... then when I saw a tube, almost new on ebay for 5 bucks, I jumped on it for my second car Espresso Nero. A2 door hatchettyback. For this one I found an air deflector to keep the rear window clean. Marvelous, just mahwvellous...Ebay: 10 bucks.
How do I clean off battery cables? Can I do it myself without buying special sprays? Also, does the cable with the little plastic cover over it supposed to have a split (?)in it? It is not a solid piece like the other side. Thanks.
Thats ok- my ex wife said she'd rather have married a REAL man rather than a mechanic..LOL..OK, that said- the red cap is POSITIVE + and the bare or black clamp is NEGATIVE - Unbolt the positive and twist the clamp loose with a pair of pliers- then do the same to the negative clamp -, Then you have a choice- 1) at an automotive store or even walmart, buy a small chrome cylinder that is called "A battery post cleaner"- this hand-dandy device has wire brushes inside it, and can clean the battery post, AND, when the device is taken apart, it has another brush than can clean the opposite end the battery clamps-This device is used by a twisting motion- If you want you can clean the bluish powder off with a small hand wire brush and then shoe-shine the battery post with a piece of sand paper, and do the same to the battery cable clamp. A word of caution- do not get the blue-white battery post powder on your clothes or near your eyes- it is caustic. It canslowly destroy you clothes like battery acid. Another way is to finalize the cleaning by hand, then washing with a wet rag, the wash with baking soda and water- then washing and drying- re-assemble and presto ! all done. IT is NOT difficult, and should take less than 30 minutes from start to finish. Good luck !
Our Geo Metro has recently begun to occasionally lurch forward when accelerating from a dead stop. Sometimes this happens when it has been parked for a while or overnight, but it also happens at traffic lights, stop signs, etc., anywhere it has come to a full stop.
It lurches once, then moves forward as it should. There is no problem with changing gears or acceleration after the first "jump."
Also, this lurching is the only symptom of a possible transmission problem -- there is no noise, gear change difficulty or hesitation -- nothing.
Our Geo has a little over 83k miles on it, and it has been regularly serviced, including a transmission fluid check.
However, there are two chronic conditions worth a mention, but I don't know if they are related to the current lurching problem:
Our Geo has always had very little acceleration power on "take-off," but once it's going, it runs great. This lack of power issue has been repeatedly addressed over the years, but our mechanic has yet to pinpoint the cause -- we've learned to live with it, and we don't pull out into traffic until it's clear a looooong way down the road.
Also, wet weather seems to cause our Geo to sputter and complain -- hesitation and very little acceleration power. However, once the engine has run for a while or after the sun comes out, this disappears. This is another issue that's never been resolved, and it has been a bit of a pain since we live in Florida where it's wet most of the summer.
As to the lurching, we had our mechanic drive the Geo, and since he's not a transmission expert, he hesitated to make any diagnosis. He just advised us to have the transmission looked over.
We know nothing about transmissions, and we've heard all the horror stories about bad mechanics cheating people like us. So, understandably, we're nervous about taking the Geo in for a diagnostic on the transmission.
If anyone can suggest what we need to be aware of or if anyone has another idea what the problem might be, please post. This is our only car, and it has to last a while longer.
You maybe correct, the tranny is of suspect. The only other thing I can think of is bad CV joints. You don;t mention how many miles on the car- for what it's worth, my 1995, with 116,000 miles on it has the lurch problem you describe, but it just started it recently. But it has a great pick up and go- no lack of power. Now my 1997 Geo has the lack of power issue, but not the lurching (yet) both of mine are automatic transmissions.(I assume yours is too) Well, the only thing I can suggest is a good tranny shop- like AAMCO . good luck- :confuse:
Hello. First - this happen when the engine is cold or hot? Second - please check the connection between the accelerator cable to the trouthle body. If you have very little clearence between the set srew and the "cam" plate, which is attached to the acceleratore cable - you will need to lubricate the shaft in the "carburator" ( trouthle body). Check also the spring attached to the camplate is not damaged. :mad: Let me know.
Our Geo has about 83000 miles on it, and it's never been driven hard or for very long distances - we use it for around town mostly.
And yes, our Geo is an automatic transmission.
I looked up CV joints today, and apparently a symptom of a bad CV joint is a clicking sound on turns. As I described in my first post, there is no noise whatsoever when the Geo lurches or when it turns. However, we'll have the CV joints checked.
The lurching happens mostly when the engine is cold, but sometimes it will do it when it's hot. For example, if we come to a full stop at a stop sign, then accelerate, it will lurch or jump, then it's okay.
We'll have the connection and spring checked as you suggested. What you've described sounds very probable, given the Geo's performance. :sick:
hello again. Please check those recomendation, but do not try to adjust the 'set srew' on the "carburator" - throutle body. If the cam rest on the set srew, next step will be - throtle body positioning sensor mounted on thre second side . Remove the 2 srew, gently and check for operation. Let me knoiw. After that I will let you know. Mark
Thanks to all! I had a tune-up done and my car seems to be starting with no problem now. Even in the rain. Also, I am driving below half a tank of gas because of the gas leak. Can't do the gas tank repair yet. Keep your fingers crossed. Deborah
I just did a valve job on a 90 metro, with #1 exhaust valve burnt. Had the valves ground, ect.. Put it back together and #2 intake valve is hanging open. If I take the cam. out it seals fine under a 30 psi. leak down test. When checking the lifter on #2 intake it's hard as a rock and the others are nice and spongy. I took the lifter apart and cleaned it, it looked fine no broken spring or Anything scored.it back toghter and it's still hard a rock, valve doesn't seal. It seams like the lifter is all the way bottomed out. Why is the valve still hanging open?
Check thje oil passages inside the "folowers" lifter and also how easy is moving inside. They are very sensible for dirty oil. Also check the flow in the cyl. head. Remove the lifter and look inside the cyl. head for small opening on the bottom of the hole. I'm sure they are klogged. Mark
I am thinking about buying a 96 metro hatchback. The owner of the car is original. The check engine light has come on in the last months or so he says. I was wondering if anyone here has experienced the same problem? Id like to work around goin to a shop to have it tested!
What millage? Second - if the engine runs fine, do not worry about the engine lights - CO2 oxy sensor. Check the engine - drive longer period time more that 1/2 hrs. and check the engine in idling for ligths for oil pressure. Remeber oil must be hot. Check the lights on dashborad. If nothing come red, do not worry. Let mem know about the millage.
Dear Fellow Metrophiles, I've solved this dilemma and thought I'd tell all about it. Should your low beam headlights quit, and you can only flash your high beams .. here's what it is. Under the dash & up over the clutch pedal (remove front lower dash cover) (3 screws) Look up and find a white plastic multi-pin harness connector. Loosten the holding straps so you can rotate teh plugand you'll see a burnt spot inside the plug. It's a toasted pin. Cut the two wires and re-splice them outside the connector. Voila! Low beams again. This has happened to me TWICE. Different pins inside same connector two different times. Same remedy. Hope this helps somebody! DangerDude
Hey I want to thank you 3tech for the help on my 1994 metro. It runs the best it has for years. Now may be you can help with my 1998 it is a 1.3 auto runs great but for this dumb light service Eng soon that I have try ed to get to go out I have changed the ecm fuel pump and a few other parts why you ask well it stalls at time out of the blue it will restart but it may take a few turns of the key. It will start for a split sec and quit any where from 5-10 times then run fine. I have check the codes with a obd II scan tool and get 3 flashes then a few seconds later a 4th then the letter E [error code] I am left to guessing may be a bad ground some where I have been checking all of them one at a time. In my old Chevy it did some thing like this and it turned out to be the module. Any help would be much appreciated Thanks Mike
Hi all, my 1997 2 dr LSi 4 cyl automatic is near death, gas milage has decreased to around 20MPG, the pick up has died to a crawl- The engine has to 'warm up' after shifting into reverse or drive in order to move.... then it seems ok.. It has 116,000 miles on the vehicle. The o2 sensors were replaced 10,000 miles ago, a tune up was done less than 5, 000 miles ago, including air, oil and gas filters. any suggestions out there? :confuse:
I think that in general, the 1.0 liter 3 cylinder suzuki engine is the more reliable of the two. If you drive the crap out of them they will stay with traffic. I put 900 lbs of newspapers in them on sometimes without too many problems. If I ever buy another metro, it will also have the 1.0 liter 3 cylinder engine. Also, much better mpg. 94 metro hatchback
i apologize for not commenting about your subject matter but i've had a 1992 geo metro hatchback for almost three years now and i just love it. the only major work done was to change the timing belt. but i do have a question if that's ok. i should know this but i've spent maybe an hour on the computer trying to find the answer. what is the compression psi for the three cylinder metro?
Hi there...here is the compression psi for your three hiccup highway eater (I have two). A healthy new engine will have 180-195 psi (dry test ) and ( 190-200 ) wet test. Any cylinder having a low pressure reading may have a problem. The difference in pressure readings between wet and dry, on a good motor is about 10-20 psi. If the pressure is higher with a wet test, the rings are probably worn. If the pressure is low, and doesn't come up using a wet test, a valve is probably burnt, or the head gasket may be bad. If 2 cylinders side by side are showing the same pressure reading , it could be a bad head gasket. The lowest acceptable reading should be 170 psi.
Have fun, Vanilla Latte (stable companion to Espresso Nero., both 1/4 of a Ferrari and way cheaper).
I haven't written in a while, but it's great to see so many of us are still out there happily tooling around in our Metros. Mine is a '93 five-speed convertible with 117K miles. I do my own tune-ups but leave the rest to my friendly mechanic. I wanted to leave a bit of advice for those of us who have A/C. Mine had a factory unit when I bought it used, and I had spent quite a lot of money on it to no avail. This last time my new mechanic suggested replacing the entire unit with an after-market system. The whole job cost me only $700 compared with $900 for a replacement factory compressor alone. The system works great - much better than before. I realize it is a power-grabber when it's in use, but here in the midwest there are many days when the humidity prevents open-top driving. I am a total believer in Metros and plan to drive mine for the rest of my life. I just had a new timing belt and water pump intstalled last week and she is running like a top. Hang in there, everyone! I enjoy reading about your cars.
Well ... enjoy all you can. I hope that you are 17 and have many years left! Did the aftermarket pose any problems in fitting? Special brackets...... weight difference.... I'm curious.
got a 93 & 94 1.0 metro problems r one was blowing oil in # 1 cyl. & stopd running i pulled head valves burnt out is this also the cause of the oil blowing & fowling plug & out the breather ? or ? cynlder walls look good so i dont think broken ring dont want to pull it if just the valves so.... Ideas ? & the other one i bought non running ran compression 2 cyl were low pulled head burnt valves again.... is this a common tin can on wheels problem ?
I've got a '92 convertible 5-speed, and about 2 & a half years ago I put in an after-market AC (the car had never before had AC). I got it from an outfit in Phoenix.
Since I was going to have my local mechanic install the system (rather than driving to Phoenix from Amarillo, TX), they asked if my mechanic had the special crimping tool required. Mechanic said yes - so I bought the system & had it installed.
Installation was pretty involved, but, then, the mechanic had never done one before on a Metro. Once installed, it worked fine - then, about 6 months later, it quit - a leak. Happened again to a 2nd hose about 6 months after that. The second time I had the mechanic pull all the all the hoses & have them crimped - voila! No problems since.
In retrospect I should either have had the mechanic talk directly to the Phoenix firm, or I should have driven to Phoenix to let them install the system.
I am glad that I did it, though - now I can drive anywhere in the country at any time of the year at 38 mpg or better.
bought a '96 Geo Metro LSI with 76,000mi. So far, no problems - knock on wood. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how difficult it is to get parts for these cars when the time comes? I know they don't make this brand any longer and am a little worried about this. Please advise. Thank you.
Relax, take a deep breath...let it out slowly. Parts are easy to come by, Ebay is here and there are people on the net willing to help out, like..here for instance. Almost all the parts are interchangeable with the Suzuki Swift and/or Pontiac Firefly in Canada. Not really 100% sure but I think that the Firefly was made until your year... Nevertheless, don't worry. My advice, if you just bought your Geo, have the brake fluid flushed and refill with new, this fluid retains the humidity and you may lose braking power.... change your spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor along with the cables. And enjoy your ride. If something happens, parts are plentiful.
Thanks, vanillalatte, that's great to know. I was wrong about the miles I reported. It has 67,000mi. not 76,000. Since I'm here maybe you or someone else out there can tell me if there is any way I can tell if the timing belt has been changed? I'm the third owner and do not have contact with the original owners. The lot which I purchased it from doesn't know. Can you advise? Thanks very much!
Does it have cracks in it? For peace of mind have a mechanic look at it.
Don't go to sleep with your head full of horror stories. Some of these are propagated by jealous friends or car haters. I would be more concerned by the state of the tires, the brake fluid and the alignment. Then you move to suspension and other tidbits, until you know the age of each component. A second hand car is something that grows on you. If you liked it the first hour, you will enjoy it up to the time that you dispose of it. Have fun with your (for you) new car.
I'm trying to time a 1.0L from 94 metro. They say to short out the check switch( sticker under hood ) what does this mean and where? Or what other tips may I need to get her running right again??
Hey dangerdude, If you don't have a splashguard on the pasanger side then you will never get the squealing to stop. Without it, water gets on the belts.
I have found out the hard way that the Bosch Platinums are no good in the 3 cylinder. They just don't hold up. I've used them in every other car of mine (Ford, Dodge,Ramblers',and s10). I've used them for about ten years. However, I've had to change the head once because of them in the Geo and my sisters car died on the highway from them. I don't know if it is a heat problem or what. They just don't function properly.
I have a 1999 Pontiac Firefly 1.3 L Automatic and its speed sensor (the needle) stopped working. I checked everything up to the back of the instrument cluster and it all worked. I removed the instrument cluster and the speedometer/odometer unit. The odometer works fine but the needle only moves a little from the bottom when I back up (turn the cable in reverse). Do you know now or does anyone know how to fix the needle speed indicator? I took it to my local auto wrecker and the fellow quoted me $150.00 for a used instrument cluster (located at distant autowreckers). The fellow said "for the time I take mulling this one over I can just spend a bit of money and replace my junk." That would be fine but I still would like to fix mine if I can and, furthermore, if I do get another speed sensor/odometer I would have the problem of having someone else's mileage on my car (or the expense and certification rigmarole of re calibrating the "new" unit). Any help, or thoughts? My Firefly has 94,000KM on it.
First of all, Ebay has odometers for your car for $20 dollars or so. If you want one with a tachometer, it will cost you around $50.00
Second, they are not hard at all to put the numbers at the correct place. You need patience, that's all. I did several for my own use when I installed a tach cluster gauge and wanted the correct reading. NO, DO NOT USE A DRILL! You have to dismantle it, it' not that hard. Are you in Canada?
Dear RougeRambler, Thanks for the message! I appreciate it. Glad there are so many of us out there who recognize the Metro for the "car of the future" that it is. Why in hell did it slip from production. I think car makers must be as insane as politicians(?) It's all about profits I guess. Anyway .. sorry about that, got carried away (again) My belt is no longer an issue. I do have the splash shield. I tightened the belt bit by bit just until it stopped it's squeal. Didn't want to over stress any bearings. I've just changed the tranny fluid (what came out was unbelievable) Hoping to get smoother downshifts but I gather high mileage tranny's tend to get "notchy" on the downshifts. Just move the shifter slow & easy for success. I Have new bushings on order. I intend to get a million miles outa this little baby! DangerDude
Come to think of it my belt does squeal on start up...but it has been raining quite a lot here and I thought that water was the cause....which may be just that also....hum. Does anybody know when to change the tranny oil? I have 40 000 miles on Espresso Nero. Should it be done now or soon? Thanks.
Dear VanillaLatte, I think the tranny juice ought to be changed at 36K mile intervals so your pretty close to being on schedule. In my case Pipsqueak (my Metro) came to me with 185K miles already. His tranny "stuff" was waaay overdue. It was obvious! Apparently these gearboxes are pretty tolerant of neglect. But let's not push it like the previous owner did! So to answer your question .. soon should be fine. My Pipsqueak is a 5-speed standard shift. Either way auto or stick, a little maintenance, a little love and we'll all last a lot longer. I've named my three cylinders "Larry, Curley & Moe" - DangerDude -
could someone please help me i am having problems with my 94 geo metro flasher/ blinker unit , however i cant find where the flasher is could some one please help me? any info reply to: twister31634@yahoo.com\
The aftermarket compressor is almost identical to the factory one - my mechanic said he had to order a kit for attaching it to the car because the bolt holes are slightly different. I didn't have the problem with the hose crimping because I already had the hoses.
By the way, I'm 52, but I figure the convertible will last as long as I will, I hope. I just had a new water pump and timing belt installed a couple of weeks ago. It's running better than ever.
I have numerous 2 dr Geo Metros, all but 1 are 4 cyl engines. I want to put a low milage 1995 engine in place of a very tired 1997 engine (hi miles) I'd like to swap engines and trany and shafting as 1 package--does that make sense? How much trouble? Will the wiring harnesses be the same? ALSO interior roof liners, (cloth) has separated on all but 1 of my cars- how the heck do I get them down and re-glued? what kind of adhesive should I use ? :confuse:
Comments
there's a problem with this... the tighter you crank that belt up, the more wear and tear you'll be putting on your waterpump and alternator bearings. If you're not careful, you could crack the waterpump housing from the compression stress you're putting on the tensioning bracket where it attaches to the waterpump.
If you're tightening the belt a LOT, then there's something else wrong. You shouldn't need to use anything more than a 2' crow/pry bar and the weight of your arm to tighten the belt. Perhaps a bit more of a tug if that doesn't solve the problem. No need to be hanging off of (or even using) a 2x4" to get the belt to the proper tension. It's an easy one-person job. If you find yourself straining to keep the tension while tightening the bolt on the tensioning bracket, you've got the belt WAAAY too tight. That's a good way to set a belt up to snap when you're too far away from a replacement one.
Also, check the pivot bolts and nuts under the alternator. If they're loose, you won't be able to get the right tension. When they're properly tightened (after you tension the belt), the stress of the stretched belt will be spread more evenly around the mounting points of the alternator, reducing the chance of breaking mounts off. They should be tight enough that you can't move the alternator with your hand, and moving it with that crow/pry bar is almost impossible.
Have fun, Vanilla Latte.
And yes the guy is right, not too tight you'll be replacing the idler, or pump / alternator.
When you have the belt off -check to see if the pulley(s) are glazed over, or have oil on them- never get oil, silicone near the pulley ! Use a qualty cleaner to remove the glaze if any...
Good Luck !
Thanks.
the red cap is POSITIVE + and the bare or black clamp is NEGATIVE -
Unbolt the positive and twist the clamp loose with a pair of pliers- then do the same to the negative clamp -, Then you have a choice-
1) at an automotive store or even walmart, buy a small chrome cylinder that is called "A battery post cleaner"- this hand-dandy device has wire brushes inside it, and can clean the battery post, AND, when the device is taken apart, it has another brush than can clean the opposite end
the battery clamps-This device is used by a twisting motion- If you want you can clean the bluish powder off with a small hand wire brush and then shoe-shine the battery post with a piece of sand paper, and do the same to the battery cable clamp.
A word of caution- do not get the blue-white battery post powder on your clothes or near your eyes- it is caustic. It canslowly destroy you clothes like battery acid.
Another way is to finalize the cleaning by hand, then washing with a wet rag, the wash with baking soda and water- then washing and drying- re-assemble and presto ! all done.
IT is NOT difficult, and should take less than 30 minutes from start to finish.
Good luck !
Our Geo Metro has recently begun to occasionally lurch forward when accelerating from a dead stop. Sometimes this happens when it has been parked for a while or overnight, but it also happens at traffic lights, stop signs, etc., anywhere it has come to a full stop.
It lurches once, then moves forward as it should. There is no problem with changing gears or acceleration after the first "jump."
Also, this lurching is the only symptom of a possible transmission problem -- there is no noise, gear change difficulty or hesitation -- nothing.
Our Geo has a little over 83k miles on it, and it has been regularly serviced, including a transmission fluid check.
However, there are two chronic conditions worth a mention, but I don't know if they are related to the current lurching problem:
Our Geo has always had very little acceleration power on "take-off," but once it's going, it runs great. This lack of power issue has been repeatedly addressed over the years, but our mechanic has yet to pinpoint the cause -- we've learned to live with it, and we don't pull out into traffic until it's clear a looooong way down the road.
Also, wet weather seems to cause our Geo to sputter and complain -- hesitation and very little acceleration power. However, once the engine has run for a while or after the sun comes out, this disappears. This is another issue that's never been resolved, and it has been a bit of a pain since we live in Florida where it's wet most of the summer.
As to the lurching, we had our mechanic drive the Geo, and since he's not a transmission expert, he hesitated to make any diagnosis. He just advised us to have the transmission looked over.
We know nothing about transmissions, and we've heard all the horror stories about bad mechanics cheating people like us. So, understandably, we're nervous about taking the Geo in for a diagnostic on the transmission.
If anyone can suggest what we need to be aware of or if anyone has another idea what the problem might be, please post. This is our only car, and it has to last a while longer.
Thanks...
Well, the only thing I can suggest is a good tranny shop- like AAMCO .
good luck-
:confuse:
Second - please check the connection between the accelerator cable to the trouthle body. If you have very little clearence between the set srew and the "cam" plate, which is attached to the acceleratore cable - you will need to lubricate the shaft in the "carburator" ( trouthle body).
Check also the spring attached to the camplate is not damaged. :mad:
Let me know.
Our Geo has about 83000 miles on it, and it's never been driven hard or for very long distances - we use it for around town mostly.
And yes, our Geo is an automatic transmission.
I looked up CV joints today, and apparently a symptom of a bad CV joint is a clicking sound on turns. As I described in my first post, there is no noise whatsoever when the Geo lurches or when it turns. However, we'll have the CV joints checked.
I guess we'll also be seeing the AAMCO guy too.
The lurching happens mostly when the engine is cold, but sometimes it will do it when it's hot. For example, if we come to a full stop at a stop sign, then accelerate, it will lurch or jump, then it's okay.
We'll have the connection and spring checked as you suggested. What you've described sounds very probable, given the Geo's performance. :sick:
Thanks again...
Deborah
Cleaned out the EGR passages as per your suggestion.
Thanks,
geometro91
Mark
Second - if the engine runs fine, do not worry about the engine lights - CO2 oxy sensor.
Check the engine - drive longer period time more that 1/2 hrs. and check the engine in idling for ligths for oil pressure. Remeber oil must be hot. Check the lights on dashborad. If nothing come red, do not worry.
Let mem know about the millage.
It runs the best it has for years. Now may be you can
help with my 1998 it is a 1.3 auto runs great but for
this dumb light service Eng soon that I have try ed to
get to go out I have changed the ecm fuel pump and a
few other parts why you ask well it stalls at time out
of the blue it will restart but it may take a few
turns of the key. It will start for a split sec and
quit any where from 5-10 times then run fine. I have
check the codes with a obd II scan tool and get 3 flashes then a few seconds later a 4th then the letter E [error code] I am left to guessing may be a bad ground some where I have been checking all of them one at a time. In my old Chevy it did some thing like this and it turned out to be the module. Any help would be much appreciated Thanks Mike
It has 116,000 miles on the vehicle. The o2 sensors were replaced 10,000 miles ago, a tune up was done less than 5, 000 miles ago, including air, oil and gas filters.
any suggestions out there? :confuse:
94 metro hatchback
A healthy new engine will have 180-195 psi (dry test )
and ( 190-200 ) wet test. Any cylinder having a low pressure reading may have a problem. The difference in pressure readings between
wet and dry, on a good motor is about 10-20 psi. If the pressure is higher with a wet test, the rings are probably worn. If the pressure is low,
and doesn't come up using a wet test, a valve is probably burnt, or the head gasket may be bad. If 2 cylinders side by side are showing the same pressure reading , it could be a bad head gasket.
The lowest acceptable reading should be 170 psi.
Have fun,
Vanilla Latte (stable companion to Espresso Nero., both 1/4 of a Ferrari and way cheaper).
Did the aftermarket pose any problems in fitting? Special brackets...... weight difference.... I'm curious.
& the other one i bought non running ran compression 2 cyl were low pulled head burnt valves again.... is this a common tin can on wheels problem ?
I've got a '92 convertible 5-speed, and about 2 & a half years ago I put in an after-market AC (the car had never before had AC). I got it from an outfit in Phoenix.
Since I was going to have my local mechanic install the system (rather than driving to Phoenix from Amarillo, TX), they asked if my mechanic had the special crimping tool required. Mechanic said yes - so I bought the system & had it installed.
Installation was pretty involved, but, then, the mechanic had never done one before on a Metro. Once installed, it worked fine - then, about 6 months later, it quit - a leak. Happened again to a 2nd hose about 6 months after that. The second time I had the mechanic pull all the all the hoses & have them crimped - voila! No problems since.
In retrospect I should either have had the mechanic talk directly to the Phoenix firm, or I should have driven to Phoenix to let them install the system.
I am glad that I did it, though - now I can drive anywhere in the country at any time of the year at 38 mpg or better.
Parts are easy to come by, Ebay is here and there are people on the net willing to help out, like..here for instance. Almost all the parts are interchangeable with the Suzuki Swift and/or Pontiac Firefly in Canada. Not really 100% sure but I think that the Firefly was made until your year... Nevertheless, don't worry. My advice, if you just bought your Geo, have the brake fluid flushed and refill with new, this fluid retains the humidity and you may lose braking power.... change your spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor along with the cables. And enjoy your ride. If something happens, parts are plentiful.
Since I'm here maybe you or someone else out there can tell me if there is any way I can tell if the timing belt has been changed? I'm the third owner and do not have contact with the original owners. The lot which I purchased it from doesn't know. Can you advise? Thanks very much!
Don't go to sleep with your head full of horror stories. Some of these are propagated by jealous friends or car haters. I would be more concerned by the state of the tires, the brake fluid and the alignment. Then you move to suspension and other tidbits, until you know the age of each component. A second hand car is something that grows on you. If you liked it the first hour, you will enjoy it up to the time that you dispose of it.
Have fun with your (for you) new car.
NGK V-Power BPR6EY-11
Those are the numbers. I just looked at my tatoo.
Second, they are not hard at all to put the numbers at the correct place. You need patience, that's all. I did several for my own use when I installed a tach cluster gauge and wanted the correct reading. NO, DO NOT USE A DRILL! You have to dismantle it, it' not that hard. Are you in Canada?
My belt is no longer an issue. I do have the splash shield.
I tightened the belt bit by bit just until it stopped it's squeal. Didn't want to over stress any bearings. I've just changed the tranny fluid (what came out was unbelievable) Hoping to get smoother downshifts but I gather high mileage tranny's tend to get "notchy" on the downshifts. Just move the shifter slow & easy for success. I Have new bushings on order. I intend to get a million miles outa this little baby! DangerDude
any info reply to:
twister31634@yahoo.com\
thanks everyone
larry m in Ga.
By the way, I'm 52, but I figure the convertible will last as long as I will, I hope. I just had a new water pump and timing belt installed a couple of weeks ago. It's running better than ever.
ALSO interior roof liners, (cloth) has separated on all but 1 of my cars- how the heck do I get them down and re-glued? what kind of adhesive should I use ? :confuse: