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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • I googled "geo metro o2 sensor new" and found The prices were under $20.00.

    I checked my own '92 Metro LSI - they have them for mine - hopefully they have them for you.


  • I've had my '92 Metro LSI since January 1993, when it had 25 miles on the odometer. It now has 85,000+. It has always had a rough idle when the tach showed less than 1,000 rpm.

    My take is that this is perfectly normal. After all, it's a 3 cylinder engine, running as a 4 stroke engine. I suspect that is the "cause" of the rough idle.

    Just figure it this way - in addition to a great car, you also have a back, thigh, & rear end vibrator!

    Knock on wood, in the 85,000+ miles I've put on the car, I've never had any engine trouble (except when the speed sensor went out in the speedometer - but that wasn't the engine itself). I just drove from Amarillo to Dallas & back - trip average around 36 mpg - the entire trip back with the top down. The engine still goes 3,000 between oil changes without having to add any extra oil.

    I find the engine runs better when I rev to 6300 in 1st, 5700 in 2nd, & 5500 in 3rd. I typically don't shift into 5th until 65 mph (obviously, I have the 5 speed manual - not the automatic!). Even so, around town I get 32 - 33 mpg consistently (and have great fun doing so).


  • i have a 1990 geo metro and needed a new o2 sensor and got a new bosh for $18.99 from schucks and ebay has them about the same price
  • My check engine light came on - it shows a faulty vehicle speed sensor. This happened once before, and I had to replace the speedometer (the speed sensor is inside it). I've just googled, and can't find a speedometer for the car.

    Has anyone successfully opened a speedometer & fixed the speed sensor inside? If so, please send instructions.

    Does anyone know of a source for speedometers for the 1992 LSI (convertible) - preferably new ones or new after-market?

    Thanks in advance for help - I'll keep the list posted for any driving or milage problems I experience if I can't find a speed sensor replacement. At this point (about 100 miles after the light came on) there is no noticable change in the car's performance.

    Amarillo, TX
  • weisgarberweisgarber Posts: 1
    How difficult would it be to convert a Metro to a 3 cylinder Komatsu or Kubota turbo diesel engine? I think this was done in California in 1999 to check mileage and the converted vehicle got about 99 mpg at 45 mph. What about the transmission? Would the Geo trans bolt up to the diesel engine? Any help would be appreciated.
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Posts: 40
    I originally asked for thoughts (help) solving a problem with my 1995 Geo, 2 dr, 4cyl, automatic- the idle is ok in park, cold engine, put it in ANY gear, and the RPM's skyrocket to the point the foot brake can just about hold it back ! After the engine has run for a half hour (not just "warmed up") the problem generally goes away. Sometimes the idling revs up and down all by itself, even in or out of gear.... I have tried to solve it by :
    1) tune up
    2) new computer
    3) cleaned carb and linkages
    4) fuel filter
    5) PCV replaced
    Ok, mechanics...what's up with my poor little car?
    OBTW it is almost new, has less than 120,000 miles on it...
    P10 :sick:
  • whitetopwhitetop Posts: 36
    I don't know about new or after-market, but there have been a few of them on e-bay during the past few months. I've started buying some replacement parts before I need them. Parts for GEO metros are probably going to become difficult to find in the future. There are already a lot of convertible parts no longer available.

    Are you still planning a trip to Washington, D.C? Let me know if you're coming past Joplin.

    If you want to see a picture of Fluffy check out my place on CarSpace.

  • brokengeobrokengeo Posts: 1
    I have a 93 geo metro convertible it has 87,000 miles and started smoking thought it was pcv but wasn't bad head not that guy working on car says needs new engine or rebuilt [I trust him he is a friend] I cant find a engine looks like it will cost about800. to rebuild part by part cant find a total rebuild kit. Anyone have ideas or know how to find a kit? Thank you much
  • dowensdowens Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if a rear wiper and washer can be retrofitted to a metro hatchback?. :)
  • Ok heres the deal I bought a 95 geo metro for 400 with over $3000 worth of work done on it in the last 3 years and she gave me all the documents. Its a 4cyl 1.3 liter engine ,manual, also it is not a hatchback . I was wonder if you guy had any tips / suggestions to increase the Horse power enough to make it do more then 65 to 70 mph. Also what could I replace the engine with?
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Posts: 40
    The 1997 Geo Metro & 1997 Suzuki Swift appear to be identical.... what I need is an EXHAUST manifold for the SWIFT- are they interchangeable?
    I own BOTH...but can not tell without taking them off- which would be insane !
    I can not seem to locate a suzuki swift manifold on google or ebay..any thoughts?
    thanks :sick:
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Posts: 40
    I've yet to see a shelf for the rear trunk cargo area...there are notches in the molding / trim, for one, but never have ;) seen one? has anyone out there seen one or know where I can get 3 of them ???
  • dil48071dil48071 Posts: 1
    where is the fuel filter located on my 1995 metro 3 cyl?
  • Pray tell fun loving Geo Owners, what should the idle speed be for a 3 cylinder manual?
    I took off the automatic tranny and installed a manual one in my convertible (Vanilla Latte) because I mostly do highway (it has only 50 000 miles on it-80 000 kill-o-meters). At idle it revs at 1500. Is this normal? I thank you for an answer. By the way, the auto tranny, still filled with oil is in my lobby and for sale.
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Posts: 40
    Haynes Repair manual says that Geo metros with carbureted engines 1999 and later have filters INSIDE the fuel tank and require no service. BUT Geo Metros that are fuel injected, have a filter underneath the car, left, front, forward of the gas tank. It is small, about 3" diameter and 3-1/2 inches tall, 2 metal steel pipes coming out of it. I replaced mine, but the mounting bolt broke off- so I just remounted it with a new bolt verse old one. Keep in mind these fuel lines are PRESSURIZED....
    Hope this helps- :)
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Posts: 40
    Haynes does not list a speed sensor, but does instruct how to replace the cable- it is very intense- you basically have to remove the entire instrument cluster- not an easy job ! It is almost as bad trying to replace a burnt out dash light bulb ! Good Luck !!! ;)
  • My '92 Metro LSI has always idled @ 750 - 850 rpm w/o the ac running.

    That makes for a rough idle - 1000 rpm is smoother, but why waste the gas. The rough idle won't hurt the car - it's rough because of 3 cylinders in a 4 cycle engine - there's no way to make it come out even.


  • moodybumoodybu Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1991 Geo Metro LSI from a tow company auction. It has 147,000 miles and runs pretty darn good for the whopping total of $195.00 that I paid for it. The A/C even works!!The only real problem I have is keeping it at a constant speed. When I am at the speed I want, it wants to act like I dont have my foot on the pedal? Is there a pedal adjustment for this? Also, how hard is it to change out the brakes on these. I think it needs it. It had half a tank when I got it and I have put in 3 gallons so far, and racked up 300 miles on it thus far. Looks like I git a steal.
  • Thank you Stan.
    I did discover a small nut with an inset allen screw governing the pedal travel. I lowered the idle to 1000, I will try for less RPM. The idle does go down but not instantly.
    On the other hand a buddy suggested that I should also swap the ECU from the automatic one to the manual one. What is your opinion?
  • I have a 1990 firefly and it has a terrible knocking noise coming from the passengers side valve cover please help!
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Hello. Where do you heard about the conversion?
    First, the diesel is more heavy engine, what size engine?
    Second, what transmission do you think you can use on the diesel?
    I doubt about the 99 MPG. You can't run the vehicle on air.
    You need some fuel, diesel.
    Let me know, what you are planning, and maybe I can offer some help.
    Remember, the suspension on the Geo is week, sub frame is rusting very easy. The heavy diesel will put more stress on the suspension and also on the "unitize" body sub frame.
    The engine mounting will be completely different and also transmission. Next question will be the CV joints. They can handled the torque? Many aspect must be take under consideration, before you can spend any money.
    Let me know. The diesel man. Mark :surprise:
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Lisa. If you know this guy, he can rebiult the engine for about less than $750.00. YOu can order parts from the store or buy on ebay. You must shop around and you will find good prices
    The entire engine set you can purchase for around $ 220.oo
    Sometime they will include the headbolts.
    You will need also the oil pan gasket, which are not included in the engine set. ( I do not know why)
    Rebuild cyl head will run around 125.00.
    I can give you emails to suplyers of he geo metro parts.
    YOu can find hem on ebay. Very important - look for feedback.
    If the car has nice body, the car is worth to spend $ 1000, or 1200. Remember, new car cost payment min. 250 + insurance. 4 months payment of new car will cost you new engine and no more montly payment.
    I rebiultb several geo metros and thjey are easy to work.
    Just, take the time and make the job correct.
    Mark - the diesel man.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    YOu will need pulley to pull fo the front rotors.
    YOu need time. If you never replaced the brakes, do not try. You will hat.
    Do not use metalic brakes. Try to purchase original-non metalic. Better for rotors and for brakes.
    Also replaced the DOT 3 fliud.
    CHeck aslo the "frame" on the front of the floor panel.. Put some oil or gfrease, to protect from rust. Those cars are notorius for rusting on lower control arm, which is attached do the control arm.. If this is gone, the car is gone and maybe you too. Danger.
    Diesel man
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Propably the "lifter" is stock. What oil you are using?
    PLease add to the engine oil one quater of transmission fluid ( engine must be warm) and run the engine for around 1 hour. Just drive. After that, drain the oil, put new oil filter and new 10/30 castrol - 4 quartz- ( not 3) and drive. I think you have dirty lifter.
    Most of the time will help.
    diesel man
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Please also check the EGR valve, maybe the "sensor" is making noise.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Why do you want to replaced the original exhaust manifold?
    Somthink is wrong with ?
    If you think is diffrent, you are wrong.
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Posts: 40
    the manifolds have very W I D E cracks in them...very noisey.... I am also trying to find the signal light / headlight /wiper switch assembly- none on ebay, none in junkyards-in Maine....

    All I have is high beams left... :P
  • benboybenboy Posts: 1
    Can Somebody tell me the simpliest way to disconnoct the autolock feature on my 94 geo ? I really hate this so called safety device..Safety ?You outta see my blood pressure go up every time i gotta go around the car to get in the pasenger side...Please help me..ThaNks for your ideas..Paul
  • Follow up.
    No need to change ECU, computer, or any of that stuff. I got the idle at exactly where I want it and the thing purrs. I went for a long trip in Northern Quebec and averaged 60.44 miles to the imperial gallon. that's 51 miles to the US gallon or 4,56 liters per 100 kill-o-meters! vanilla latte is wearing 195 X 50 X 15 tires. The calculation was done with the 5,6% error added, stock is 165 X 65 X 13
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Any exhaust manifold from 3 cyl engine will fit. Just check the opening of the exhaust ports on the cyl. head with the gasket for any misalignment. If you wish, you can "chamfered" the exhaust manifold inlet port with the hand file for 45 degree to improve the flow.
    Easy job. Replaced all bolts with studs on the cyl head. More easy to mount the exhaust on the cyl. head.
    Clean the EGR ports in the cyl head - opening hole on the bottom of the cyl head close to the distributor side.
    Also clean the port running in the exhaust manifold.
    You should be done with 2 hrs.
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