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The wires all looked fine and still made the spark plugs spark. I did not see any glow or arcing either. However, as soon as I put new spark plug wires on, the AFM started working and the car has been running fine for two weeks. The spark plugs wires on our 323 seem to only last about 40000 miles. I had inadvertently let these wires go 50000 miles.
I discovered it is possible to check the operation of the AFM by removing the black plastic cover on top. See an AFM picture at http://www.rockauto.com/ref/BeckArnley/Detail.html?1570139.jpg Just run a knife around the edge of the cover to cut the silicone seal and then pry it off with a screwdriver. The little arm inside should start moving immediately when the starter is cranked and move in response to the gas peddle when the car is running. Replace the cover by snapping it back on and putting a new bead of silicone around the edge.
Can you or anyone help me with a problem I'm ahvign with by 323? I will also start a new thread:
The car has about 200,000 miles on the engine and about 30,000 on the rebuilt head. I run 87 octane gas and use fuel injection cleaner on a regular basis. I recently tuned the car (although the problem occurred before the tune-up) with new NGK Platinum spark plugs (gapped at 1.02 mm or 0.040"), 7 mm plug wire set, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and PCV valve.
When the car is cold it runs fine. It also runs fine once warmed up. Beyond about 30 minutes of starting up and running the car, it will occasionally drop its idle by 200-300 RPM (normal idle is around 850 RPM) and will lack power on acceleration (much like running on 2 or 3 cylinders like a continuous spark plug miss). This happens both on acceleration and steady speed running. It clears up between 3500 and 4000 RPM. and will be fine for a while, then reverts to a stumbling idle and "missing" again.
I believe it’s a fuel problem and is definitely temperature related, but my shop manual doesn't really help because the problem is intermittent. Help!
Cheers
Malcolm :confuse:
The car has about 200,000 miles on the engine and about 30,000 on the rebuilt head. I run 87 octane gas and use fuel injection cleaner on a regular basis. I recently tuned the car (although the problem occurred before the tune-up) with new NGK Platinum spark plugs (gapped at 1.02 mm or 0.040"), 7 mm plug wire set, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and PCV valve.
When the car is cold it runs fine. It also runs fine once warmed up. Beyond about 30 minutes of starting up and running the car, it will occasionally drop its idle by 200-300 RPM (normal idle is around 850 RPM) and will lack power on acceleration (much like running on 2 or 3 cylinders like a continuous spark plug miss). This happens both on acceleration and steady speed running. It clears up between 3500 and 4000 RPM. and will be fine for a while, then reverts to a stumbling idle and "missing" again.
I believe it’s a fuel problem and is definitely temperature related, but my shop manual doesn't really help because the problem is intermittent. Help!
Thanks
Malcolm :confuse:
Cheers
Malcolm
Thanks
Dave :confuse:
Run the car in the driveway. Once it's up to operating temperature, wait until it dies. Disconnect the high tension wire from the distributor cap and hold it near a grounding point (such as one of the bolt heads of the air filter box. Have someone sit in the car and crank the engine over to see if you get a spark between the wire and the ground point. It should be a healthy spark. If it is weak, I would consider replacing the ignition wires, cap and rotor. Also check the gap between the pick up and inductor wheel. Although no spec is given in the manual, it should be around 0.007". Use BRASS thickness (feeler) gauges to check thsi gap; steel may damage teh components.
Interestingly enough, I have a similar problem, except that I'm getting an intermittant igniton miss when the engine is hot. I first thought it was a fuel problem too, but after checking fuel pressure, I'm back to igniton troubleshooting.
It has also been suggested throguh the Mazda Club (www.maxdaclub.com based out of Illinois)that the thermosensor (located on the intake manifold between #3 and #4 cyclinders, connected with a two-pin green plug) may be the culprit; try disconnecting it and see if the car will run when hot.
As far as an igniton module goes, I assume you are referring to the unit inside the distributor. Try your local auto wrecker for a spare distributor, might be an inexpensive alternative to new.
One last thing you could check is the coil. The primary coil should be 0 ohms; the secondardy coil should be 6k to 30k ohms.
Cheers
Malcolm :sick:
There is metal plate approximately 7" X 7" (175 mm X 175mm) which can be remove once the screws are taken out. Thsi gives you access to the top of the tank. On the end of the fuel pick-up is a filter which may be partly blocked. You can also check the fuel sender for correct operation; using a multimeter on resistance setting, the sender should read 7 ohms at full, 32.5 ohms at 1/2 fuel and 95 ohms at empty.
You may have to repalce teh fuel pump and in-tank fuel filter assembly (approximately $300.00 CDN from an after-market parts store).
In the meantime, you can zero the trip odometer and make note of the miles (or kms) on the trip odo when my Low Fuel light comes on (or if base model at an indicated 1/4 tank). You can then at least monitor when you need to fill up prior to running into this problem.
Cheers
Malcolm :confuse:
I have heard that Mazda run tighter clearances than other Japanese cars, so i started using 5W-30 oil after teh head rebuld.
I never had problems with the higher milage car, but DX had 195k km on clock and am now experiencing ignition problems at 210k km. Most of what I've read on these forums is that electrical and/or fuel gremlims are common on higher milage cars.
I think the longevity is part tied to vehicle usage and maintenance. I don't believe there's much difference between auto vs. manual transmissions so I'd go for the car with the lower kms, but so try to get service history from the owner.
Cheers
Malcolm
Slipping in 4th or 5th is a definite sign that the clutch should be replaced. Driving this way will ultimately damage the flywheel which will drive the repair costs even higher.
You could do the job yoruself, but be prepared to spend a full day on with a buddy to get it done assumign you ahve all the right tools. A transmission shop will charge you around $500.00 to $600.00.
As the car uses a cable clutch release, the free-play adjustment should be checked annually. If the clutch is pre-loaded due to incorrect cable tension, it will lead to premature wear.
Cheers
Malcolm
Dave
It then occurred to me that, because it was temperature related and felt like either lack of fuel or lack of spark, the only thing that would make the mapping computer think the engine was running rich would be a faulty Oxygen sensor.
In the factory manual. section 4, under the troubleshooting guide, the O2 sensor was item 4 to check for faults. Because I had replaced it 3 years ago (Bosch) I hadn't considered it before.
I have run the car twice today with the new Oxygen sensor on one hour plus drives, no problems.
My local parts shop recommended an NTK (NGK) sensor over Bosch, as the NTK is a Japanese spec part.
Cheers
Malcolm
If I wait five minutes it will start and then it runs fine. And I can stop and start it without problem. Only when it sits for a day or so will I have the same problem.
A few days ago I squirted some starter fluid into the air cleaner and it ran for a few seconds and stopped. I did that three times. Then after 5 minutes or so it ran fine. This means it is a fuel problem?
Then I tried the starter fluid again yesterday and this time it had no effect. The engine would not start and run for a few seconds. A spark problem?
A helpful mechanic said with something like this he did not know how to figure it out. He said perhaps it could be the igniter or main relay. He said just start replacing things.
The distributer costs three or four hundred with maybe another hundred to install. I don't want to incur that expense it unless it is bad. Can a distributor be repaired? Is this a rare or chronic problem?
Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can give,
Best,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
I have a manual transmission on my car, It runs smooth except at intermittant times when it will start to shake/stall on the road going 30-50 MPH. About 90% of the time I can take it into neutral and rev the car up to keep it running, but then once in gear 10-30 seconds later the problem will resume. It will start right up, BUT about 25% of the time I try to start the car it will just keep cranking and wont start. BUT then I'll push start the car, and pop the clutch and it will start up. BUT recently when it won't start I'll have to do the popping of the clutch 3-6 times before it will start up. And When it's started 50% of the time is will sputter down the road. Once I get it on the freeway going 60-80MPH it will be good 95% of the time. On a 3 hour road trip every so often it will sputter a little bit, and then go away. I have changed the fuel filter, cap, rotor, coil, and plugs. We have checked the timing and replaced the timing belt. I've tested the fuel pump and get 12 volts. Oh and I've noticed that when it's cold outside and my engine is not hot it will tend to be more pronounced. I would appreciate any help you guys can give.
Now I have the gasoline usage issue. When I purchased this vehicle it use to go approximately 400 miles on a tank full, and now its about 200 miles or less. I suspect he timing chain is causing this problem, but I need some info from readers out there. When I last checked my timing it was off so I readjusted it. I also checked the RPM, which was fine. Thanks. :confuse:
I will say that the thermostate is sticking but I wouldnt think that would kill the spark. Any suggestions?
Catmaster99@yahoo.com
Bought a remote cenrtal locking kit for my wife's car.
Having trouble fitting it to the standard central locking.
How do I get to the central locking relay? Where is it?
Anyone know which wires do what?
Thanks
dave
Just bought a 1991 Mazda 323 in great shape and agree its a great car for commuting in the city. But a quick question, each car is different so with only a spedometer to go by what is the optimum speeds for shifting into 1-5 gear? Probably a stupid question but humour me.
Anthony
-scott
The spedo cable is broken and I am trying to find a replacement. Any place that I should look?
I also have the flashing "Hold" light. What does that mean and how do I correct it?
It has 111000 miles and has a little of a rough idle.
Any recomemdations as to what to look for to correct the idle and hold light?
Thanks,
Does anyone have the official suggested tightening torque for a 2001 Mazda 323f 1.6 Petrol (new shape):
Engine oil drain plug
Spark plug
Wheel Nuts
Thanks
I've got a 2001 Mazda 323f 1.6 Petrol (new shape) (110, 000 miles). When I start it up from cold I get a loud clunk. It makes the noise sometimes as soon as it starts up or sometimes up to 2 minutes after its started, while I'm driving. I cant find anything loose and its fine all day long till! Its very perplexing.
Any ideas?
Thanks :confuse:
Please Help
Cat converter? is there a fuel computer? fuel sensor?
No clue. Please help :confuse:
Being a resident "shade tree mechanic" I like doing things the hard way. Dramatic pause and now starts the stupid questions..where is the diagnostic box? there are two sets of wire harnesses under the wiper motor, each set has a green wire. :confuse:
I have check the wires in the area I was dorking around, I saw nothing out of the ordinary. Both the coolant resivour and the radiator are topped off. I am open for sugestions :sick:
I'm trying to buy a manual for my 1989 323. But it seems that both Chilton & Haynes started with the 1990. Are the 1989 models that much different than the 1990+ models?
I own the 1989 Mazda 323 SE 4 Dr Sedan, it has less than 80,000 miles on it so it's barely broken in. :shades:
However, the little things that need replacing are getting harder to find so I may have to try using parts from another year, etc. She's a good little donkey and I want to keep her, and if I can fix everything then she's getting a new paint job too!
Thanks in advance,
1313
Drain tank... completely... Drop tank, pull fuel pump assy, replace gasket and float device - R&R watch for dirt.
Good luck ...
I've had this car now for about 3 years and have pretty much gotten the whole 775 dollars out of it that I paid.
Here's the deal;
About two weeks ago I noticed the battery was leaking and steaming acid pretty bad. 4 or 5 days went by (while still having same problem) I attempted to start my car after work, it wouldn't start. Finally, had it jumped, made it about 1 city block and wham!, no lights!
Figured out the ECU over charged that battery, which in turn over charged the Alternator... Well, I replaced all 3, and still, I have no lights.
No headlights, brake lights, turn signals, dash lights, tail lights, radio.. nothing!
I still have wipers, and heater is working just fine.
Help!!
Thanks so much in advance!
Tammi :lemon:
I own a 1992 Mazda 323 Hatchback with a 1.6 ltr FI. It's got 172,000kms on the clock (approx. 107,000 miles).
When I turn left I sometimes hear a thumping from the front passenger side corner. I'm thinking this might be a ball joint or tie rod end but I'm not sure. The car steers fine at low and high speed, doesn't pull in any direction, there's no vibration or wobble or anything like that.
Is this thumping just my imagination or am I hearing the early stages of a problem? Is there any simple way to check?
thx,
baz
toronto
If I were you I'd have the CV joints checked. Mine did the same thing when they needed replaced. Now, it's doing it again.. I need the other side replaced. lol
I'm not sure what you'll pay, but, I paid about 275 to have mine done labor included.
Good luck!
Oh, and I finally found out the problem to my question.
Take care,
Tammi :shades:
My son has a 88 Mazda 323 and the front driver's window is stuck. My husband says he can fix it if he had a specs for the door or instructions how to fix it. I'd like to know if someone could scan them and send them to me.
Thanks,
MySonsCar
(Karen)