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But since both the front pads have been replaced twice and the rotos once at the 20,000 mile interval
and the the back are going out at 40,000, I am a bit skeptical. Subura has denied replacing my rear brakes.
I took my OB 04 sedan for maintenance. The rep told me the fuel filter is in the tank and does not need to be replaced until 60,000 miles.
But SoAn says that this due to my driving so My cost,
I will probably dump the car, because I can not depend on it. Thanks for all your advise.
Mike P
Poughkeepsie
-juice
'02 Outback wagon
'02 Odyssey EX
Put the spare in the front, leave the fuse alone, and drive to Costco.
Steve
That would require two complete system failures: brakes and throttle. And they're independent of each other.
You sure your foot didn't slip?
The only thing that could release the brakes is the ABS sensor, but you were standing still. Was the car ever submerged in water? A flood car perhaps? That can seriously mess up the electricals. Did you buy it new or used?
As for the throttle, while the car is warming up the RPMs will be slightly elevated, but not enough to oversome the force of the brakes. No way, no how.
In fact the brakes are probably 10 times more powerful than the engine, there is no way they could overcome them completely, which explains my ABS theory - the brakes had to have completely failed.
I don't think they had throttle-by-wire for MY2003, so that's a mechanical system, not electrical.
Maybe the carpet wrinkled up under the pedals and hit the throttle? Nothing else explains this - it would require a mechanical throttle failure and an electrical ABS failure at exactly the same time. :confuse:
-juice
I wonder if maybe there is air or some other defeciency in the brake line that allowed you to "bottom out" on the pedal. Maybe a failure in the power assist? That could render your efforts rather moot. I was strap-towed home about 9 miles a couple months ago and my leg was EXHAUSTED by the time I made it home from trying to employ the help of the brakes to stabilize our towing effort! A normal application of the brake would yield exactly zero effect to slow the car appreciably.
:confuse:
thanks vicki
Mark
Crazy; and, since you were slowing to a stop and not entirely stopped yet, the engine most certainly could have overcome the amount of brake force you were applying at the time. I am wondering if perhaps there is something wrong with the cold idle control or the torque converter. As you were stopping, the motion resistance of the brakes was putting more drag on the engine and lugging the engine. Normally the torque converter allows the slippage that will let the engine keep running (such as when you are stopped at a light with the vehicle in gear). If the ECU detects the engine is cold, it also idles the car faster to warm it up. So, if the torque converter was not slipping properly AND the engine was still cold, it may have overcompensated for some reason and set the idle way too high for just a moment.
Whatever the reason, that is scary... something akin to a horse that bucks! :surprise:
Here's a pic. Use Subaru Bucks and it's free (that's the Subaru Chase Master Card program).
-juice
Thing is, unlike the GM card, you don't have to buy a car to use them. You can use them for service.
I've used $200 for accessories and $300 at the body shop. That plus I have another $500 accumulated. It's sweet. I don't pay for anything any more. I could even do a timing belt next. Who knows?
Get one, they're great.
-juice
The question is does anyone have any ideas of what I can do to create a completely level surface that would accomodate my entire foot? I think either I have to pound in the protruding part of what seems to be the wheel well, but I don't know what's under there. Or I have to build up the part where the actual foot rest is to the level of the protruding part. But I don't know what would be the best way to go about that or what materials to use.
Other than this I like the way the car drives and handles but this is starting to drive me crazy.
Oh, I have an '06 OB 2.5i wagon with 1,400 mi.
thanks
Jeffer3
xwesx: it's also a convertible for that 6th passenger!
gilmyman: buy a Subaru that came with a turbo to begin with.
Seriously, though, N/A engines run too-high compression for the level of boost a turbo would provide, so you'd have to rebuild the engine internals to even hope to turbo it. Even then, the pistons aren't forged, there's no oil jets to the bottom of them, the block isn't a semi-closed deck design...there's no easy way to go from your engine to a turbo.
On top of all that, most insurance companies won't even insure a modified car like that, mine went as far as sending me a letter (regarding my Miata).
Shop for a high-mile used WRX, and trade yours for it.
-juice
To be honest I haven't found a perfect solution. I did put spacers under the front of the seat tracks, to tilt the seat away from the pedals, and give me more thigh support. That helped a little.
-juice
You can earn up to $500 (in $100 increments) for any purchases using the Subaru Master Charge. Although I have read you can use a maximum of $2000 when redeemed, I don't think that is true & you can use however many you have (just have to watch out for expiration date -- they are good for four years I believe)
Will probably cut back usage a bit cause there are plenty of cards around CITI, etc., that will pay a full 5% for all purchases for gas, from drug stores & supermarkets. Shell is always advertising cards that pay 5% cash back & usually throw something in for free at the beginning once you use it a few times. Recently Shell had a promotion in which I received 15% off gas purchases at their stations for 90 days. With all the traveling I do, that saved me close to $100 bucks. Now, I believe get a new card, use it 3 or 4 times & get $25 gift cert for some stores like Circuit City, etc.
So the question is if anyone else has this issue and if so what can be done.
I have considered 2 options. One being increase the flat area by pounding down the area which is just adjacent and to the left of the actual tiny foot rest. Is this part of the wheel well and would it be a problem to flatten part of that to increase the foot rest area? If it's only the wheel well I don't think it would be an issue but if there is something under there it could create a problem.
Option 2, adding something on top of the foot rest to build it up to the height of the protruding area that I would pound down in option 1. If so what would be a good solution for that.
I hope I'm explaining that correctly.
Anyway thanks in advance.
Jeffer3
Hey, at least there is a dead pedal, the CR-V we test drove had none at all.
-juice
- Jeffer3
My buddy's sister adopted a dog, a beautiful collie. She drove it home in her car, and the dog was scared so it jumped on her lap. It slipped down to the footwell, and long story short, she ended up wrecking the car. She was OK, the dog too.
Any how, the dog was named "Boo Boo".
-juice
Thanks from Canada.
The shop manual is kind of vague on this. From what I see, there is no 'drain plug' per se. It looks like the most logical procedure would be to jack up the front, remove a high pressure line from the steering rack, remove the reservoir cap to relieve any vacuum, and turn the wheel back and forth to 'encourage' it to drain???? I'm just guessing here based on some of the component service procedures.
Refilling looks to be a pain, as the goal is to remove all of the trapped air. Leave it behind, and you get lots of noise along with accelerated wear. With the front raised, rotate wheel back and forth while topping off. Again with wheels on the ground.
Steve
Dave
Steve
$600 worth on Service.
I'm interested in if you were able to come up with a solution to the "Left Foot" issue. I have the same problem and I think it may be causing a problem in my left ankle. I have the '06 Outback 2.5i Wagon w/ about 4,000 miles. I can never get my left foot into a comfortable position and recently I have been having problems with my left ankle. It started as a feeling as if it were bruised, then the area around my ankle turned numb (like if your foot fell asleep, but all the time). I've tried positioning my foot in different ways and I think the numbness is starting to subside now, but it is very hard to find a comfortable place for my left foot. I thought that it must just be me because otherwise why would they have such a poorly designed and uncomfortable left foot position?
The only other complaint that I've had so far has been with the POS OEM trailer hitch and its incompatibilty with most (if not all?) bike rack locking systems. In my case I have a Thule "Snug Tite Lock" that will not work because of another poor design by Subaru. OEM Hitch Thread
Like I said, happy with everything so far except the retarded design of the OEM hitch and the uncomfortable left foot position.
How frequently should it be replaced?
Steve
-juice
I don't recall any mention of it on the official maintenance schedule that is in my owner's manual.
On my previous car, the distributor cap needed to be replaced every 30K miles or so.
Think about the HV coil on the car with the distributor cap. It lasted pretty much the life of the car. Your coil pack is that unit times 4 in a compact package.
Steve
-juice
I received a quote for the Gold Plus 7yr 100k warranty $100 deductible for $1375. Is this reasonable or could I bargain down?
Thanks.