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1) 86 New Subaru 4WD Hatchback (with LO and adjustable suspension those were the days!)-- got suckered into extended warranty never used it sold the car to a friend who still has it 300,000 miles a never a problem.
2) 1991 Legacy 4WD Wagon -- did not buy the extended warranty gearbox quit at 65,000 miles (too much mountain driving) got it fixed for $700. Sold the car at 120,000 miles no other problems.
3) 1996 Outback -- No extended warranty, vehicle chronically overheated after about a year, dealer and factory technician uninterested in my problem, told by my highly experienced Subaru mechanic that my "engine was wrecked" by constant overheating, dumped the car in 2001 swearing never to buy another Subaru, long time customer got treated like dirt by SOA.
If you finance a car, use the money as a down payment instead of spending it on the warranty. You will have saved a good deal of money in interest over the life of the loan. If nothing ever goes wrong, that's money in the bank. If something does go wrong, that's your contingency repair fund. The odds will be on your side in this case, instead of the manufacturer's!
Craig
-Frank P.
Jimmie
Craig
My friend just bought a 2002 Legacy L wagon which came with a basic radio/cassette. I had previously removed the stock double-DIN radio/CD changer from my WRX to make way for my beloved Empeg, so I offered to give it to her.
Once I get the dash apart, I think the install should be easy; the harness connector is the same AFAIK. She'll just sacrifice one of the 2 pocksts that are there now.
Getting the bezel off on the WRX was easy, but I chickened out yesterday when trying to remove the Legacy trim/bezel. I removed the shifter trim piece, the change holder cup, and the screw holding the brace behind the ashtray. I saw no other screws, and I assume that the piece is just held with spring clips, but the amount of leverage that I was applying to the bottom of the bezel was making me nervous.
Short of buying a shop manual, does anybody have any advice on this? Have you done it? Is there perhaps a little tool to pull the edges of the bezel to pop the spring clips?
It's a big piece, going all the way over to the steering column, so I figure it would be serious $$$ if I break it!!
One other Legacy question: Her car was not delivered with any sort of front license plate bracket. Does such a thing exist, or do they just tap the front bumper???
Side note: she got what seems like a pretty good deal on the AT wagon, about $18.5K or so. It came with 16" WRX wheels and RE-92s. I assume these were take-offs from a WRX wheel upgrade at this dealer.
Thanks in advance for your insights
Jim Hogan
Seattle
There is also a plastic wrap/full tank of gas fee of $61. Is this also a standard dealer fee or just some way for them to get money for nothing?
Thanks,
tom
or
Full Tank of Gas for an extra $61.00?! 8-o Bring your own gas! When I bought my '98 OB, it had a full tank - no extra fee.
-Dave
Eric
Check this out: http://www.subaru-parts.com/_instructions/2001MY68JH4Security.pdf
It shows instructions for the security system, which involves removal of the center console bezel.
Good luck!
Craig
Anyhow, i was on the right track, but didn't see those 2 ashtray assembly retaining screws (No wonder it didn't want to pop out!). I'll try again, maybe save her a few dollars.
Thanks,
Jim
Now for those newbie questions. Anyone know of seat covers you can add to the seats with side airbags. It gets over 100 deg here in the summer and the leather will be a killer to sit in.
Thanks
Steve
And, can anyone recommend a reputable tint shop in Northern NJ?
thanks..
-mike
The bumper has a basic step pad designed into the cover. The optional dealer add-on is a nice addition that wraps around the rear lip and offers some real protection to the painted surface. I think it ran around $50 (sticker price) and I deemed it well worth the cost. Now the curious issue is that I have never seen this item officially listed anywhere. I bought my car in NY, but a dealer in Conn had never even heard of an additional cover, so it may be something they get from their own supplier. If so, there is no guarantee that the one your dealer gets is the same as I got!!
Steve
mike k
I leave for Daytona Fla on tues for the 500 nascar race . Not taking the subby though .
-mike
Have the same tint on all my cars (without auto-dimming mirros) - appearance of following headlights is the same in the Bean.
Steve
Dear fibber,
The OB does not have an add-on rear bumper cover listed and I assume this is because it already has blackstuff there. But as you point out (the underpant thing does not seem to have affected your mental powers although there's obviously some unresolved trauma) there is one which is much more durable, does a better job of protecting the bumper's edge, and is intended for the Legacy which is sans blackstuff. I eventually got one last fall while passing through Kamloops BC and it has "Legacy" moulded into it. My big Vancouver dealership and the Kamloops one denied knowledge of the item but fortunately I was carrying around a picture of one complete with part number I downloaded from Subaru's website, and this convinced them to dig out the last remaining one in stock. It was covered in dust and the entire parts and sales team came out to marvel at it.
It is thick, tough plastic but not as wide as the blackstuff, which looked difficult to get off so I didn't try. It doesn't look perfect but no-one except those on this list would ever notice. I'll try to remember to take a pic and post it.
Ironically, about two weeks after I stuck it on I saw a late 90's Legacy with one of these on it, but this one had "Outback" moulded into it!
Love, Goosegog
Your mirror should have a light sensor in the front of the mirror (the windshield side) so that the dimming function only operates at night. Try covering it (them? I've heard some say their mirrors have a couple of sensors - mine has only one) with your hand during broad daylight and see if the mirror dims (make certain you have a tight seal to exclude all the light). If it does, then I'd say make it "permanent" by putting on electrical tape - and I'd say you're home free.
Let me know if this works.
Ken in Seattle
Patti
Forward facing is a real breeze - though the same steps.
If you have a latch model (or you call and britax sells you the latch straps. You just attach the hooks, put you weight in the seat and cinch down belt. you can get the seat tighter than you ever could with the seat belt. Subaru does not "support" using latch in the center position, so you have to check out the brackets and use your own judgment, But I have been using my latch seat in the center for almost a year and a half now.
Incedently, If you need to carry more than one seat at a time, putting your bitax in the center allows for better fit as it will sit slightly higher than most seats.
Great choice in the seat It reminds me of people who can't 'afford' a $30 bike helmet for their kid's noggin, but will spend $100 for shoes, It is never easy to write a $200 check on a seat unless you balance it with what price is your bundle of joy worth.
ramble ends
steve-v
Thank you for wishing me fun on my trip .Its going to be my 1st time at Daytona . I usually only go to the 2 Dover Del races and the 2 pocono races . Not taking the subie though were driving down a friends full size quad cab F 350 trailering a 30' self contained camper
mike k
You are not being a pain at all. I'll try to keep an eye on your case.
Thanks!
Patti
No need to alter the operations of your mirror if you are going to tint your windows...mine works just fine. The light sensors on the front and back of the mirror simply compare the amount of light coming in on one side to the other..so, as long as there is more light coming in the rear than the front(ie someone's high beams) it should dim to fix that.
BTW why tint just the back 5 windows and make your car look like all those SUVs and minivans that come from the factory that way? If you are going to tint, tint all the way around (except the windshield of course). First thing I did when we got our Odyssey is I tinted the front driver/passanger windows with the max allowable tint that matched the rear...It gives the windows and the van a much more uniform appearance. My Bean's windows are tinted all the way around and it looks outstanding.
-r
Unresolved issues with my mother? I love her dearly, but members of my English family (especially my grandma) still seem to believe that the sun (still to this day) does not rise or set on the British Empire, and that the Colonies are not fit to rule themselves. All Americans are hooligans, and only proper British moms know how to raise kids. There, I got that off my back....
Now back to the subject of bumpers:
I ran out to the parking lot to check after reading your post. I do not believe that the 'step pad' standard on the current OB is removeable. It looks to me to be masked base black plastic that was not painted titanium. The step pad I got is unadorned (no "OB" or "Legacy"), and covers the flat portion, leaving the base black that climes the sidewalls exposed for about 3" on each side.
Interestingly, my friend's '99 parked nearby has a added pad that does say "Outback".
Steve
-mike
I have a black LLBean I'm thinking of tinting (all 7) at whatever New York State allows. Any pictures of your tinted Bean?
Thanks.
-mike
My questions:
Is there a way to get these parts cheaper than from the dealer? How do you find part numbers for these kinds of things?
What are the chances that I did some other damage to the car? It still seems to drive okay, but I suppose it could have alignment issues now.
Thanks for the help!
-mike
I scraped mine off when I did the Pine Barrens pre-run back in September. I was looking into the skidplate (and still am) but my last time at the dealer, they said they noticed it was missing and would order it for me. Best part is it is covered under warranty, according to the dealer. I'm not sure if that is the normal warranty, or the the Subaru Gold that I purchased with the car.
One more reason to like that dealer!
Mark
-mike
Is there anything else that I should be worried about having damaged in that area?
Brian
Wind noise: As I've mentioned, there was a howl from the rear crossbar over 60 mph. I moved it forward to the specified 6 inches from the seam, and this helped, but over 70 mph it is less but just too annoying. I removed it, and - no howl. Does anyone have the rear crossbar on with no howl?
I do know that gas mileage has got to be better with no crossbars on top...
Andy
At about 40 mph (sometimes earlier) the driver's side window produces an annoying wind noise. The service department ordered a new rubber window seal and installed it today. After installing it they admiited that the noise was still there. They said it was not seated properly and would order another seal and try again. In part of their testing they taped the portion of the window seal near the mirror and noted that the noise origin was there. Has anyone encountered this problem and if so were you able to remedy it. I have sneaking suspision that this repair process could last awhile.
They are always noisy to an extent, and it has been proven that they waste gas.
Cheers Pat.
As for the skid plate, the fellow at Primitive said it replaces that plastic cover, thereby giving better protection. It has 4 bolts, and you can still do oil changes. He seemed pretty helpful on the whole thing. You just have to tell him what year OB, and if its MT or AT.
BTW, aps5 let me know how the tinting comes out. It's something I've been thinking about for a while.
Mark
More people had this problem on the VDC board.
Herb
Mike - As for the tint...35% is the max allowed in GA for the front side windows. It illegal to tint the windshield. I like the 35 all the way around. It is too bad that some states don't allow even the 35% on the front...as I stated before, it gives the vehicles an incomplete appearance when only the back is tinted and not the fronts.
-r
-mike