Subaru Legacy/Outback

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  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    I own one of the first Wintergreen 2000 Outbacks
    sold in WI. No major problems but some observations: Fuel economy averages 24 mpg. Seats
    can be uncomfortable as only the bottom of the seat moves, not the whole seat as in many domestic cars. Steering wheel is to far from the
    driver (I am 6'-0") causing a long arm reach. Armrests are useless to me as they are way to low.
    Power steering pump SCREAMS at low temps (under
    10 degrees). Dealer says this is normal. Alloys
    wheel are starting to corrode around the center
    inserts. Smell of burning oil at idle (not the
    cosmoline/undercoating smell when new). Good ride
    and handling. Anyone else have similar problems?

    GAM
  • powderfinger77powderfinger77 Member Posts: 6
    Juice-

    Of course I meant hitting the mountains...although there was so much hail yesterday it looked like snow.

    Can I ask a silly question to y'all?

    Did you keep the middle headrest on? I found it blocks vision from the AUTO-DIM MIRROR w/ Compass (a must accessory)so took it off and just chucked it in a closet...just curious thanks.

    CF
  • barresa62barresa62 Member Posts: 1,379
    I took mine off and remounted behind rear seat back instead of putting in closet somewhere just in case I happen to have a middle passenger back there.

    Stephen
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    CF: I have done the same as Stephen - put the center headrest upside down on the back of the center seat. Works great. And if I need it for a passenger, I have it right there. Incidentally - if you want to have the rear seats folded down FLAT, you'll need to do the same thing to the other headrests. Look in the manual - it explains it all.

    GAM: Your MPG is good, at least! I live in SE Wisconsin. My '00 OB doesn't scream in low temps. I haven't smelled any burning oil at all. I did get that undercoating smell - but only for the first few months of ownership. I take that back - I did get it once this year after a long drive at 70+ mph. Did you notice the oil smell after an oil change? Maybe they forgot to replace the washer that goes on with the drain plug.

    -Brian
  • mtnshoppermtnshopper Member Posts: 58
    Hi All. I'm getting closer to purchasing an LL Bean and I'm considering options. Those of you who chauffeur dogs around, what is your experience with the dog gate thingy? Once installed, is it removable? If so, is it easy to remove and replace? And those rubber mats mentioned in the posts above...do they come with the OB, or are they purchased as an option? And I'm seeing more and more OB wagons on the road with spoilers. Does the spoiler on the wagon really serve a purpose? I thought they were useful only if driving at really high speeds. Thanks, Becky
  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    Brian,
    I change my own oil (it is so easy). There are no
    leaks before or after the change and I wipe all the oil off the engine. There really is no place for it to drip on an exhaust manifold anyways. The
    dealer couldn't find a problem. I must say the car is fun in the Wisconsin winter. I drove a Beano this week as my wife can't drive a stick.
    Poor acceleration from a stop, but once you hit 3000 rpm it moves pretty good. Pretty steep price
    though at $30,000. Dealer says sales are so-so.
    And why oh why doen't Subaru offer privacy glass
    as an option? It seems that with the outdoorsy type reputation they have, they would at least consider it, one to hide your camping gear, and two to keep your car cooler in the summer sun.
  • phowell1phowell1 Member Posts: 35
    I have been driving a new LLBEAN compliments of my dealer for the past 3 days. here is just my IMHO thoughts

    1. the power is excellent, so much better than the 4 in every way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    2. Climate control didn't work as well as expected.

    3. Love the new steering wheel

    4. Seats are still too small and hard, just like the other Subarus hell on a trip.

    5. I love the OB but it is just too small for me if the gear shift was on the column and that console out of the way to make room for your knee, I would consider.

    6. I will buy the first one that Subaru makes full size, I feel they are a super product and can't say enough good about them,( that is if they get the mileage they claim in the h-6 my dealer said the only complaint they have had out of the ones they have sold is the very poor mileage, 18 is just not acceptable in that little small box, to give up that much room you should get something. OVERALL, IF THE MILEAGE IS AS IT IS SUPPOSE TO BE I WOULD ALWAYS GET THE LL BEAN OVER THE OTHERS,

    Wait though they are coming with more deals and financing, dealers are advertising invoice and some invoice minus $500 they are quite expensive and everyone on here and the dealers them selves said Subaru is scrambling to pick up the sales with more incentavies.

    GOSH I WISH THEY WERE LARGER.....
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    Just to make you feel homesick, I was in Sydney yesterday for a really good storm. Sort of like the great hail disaster of 1999 but we got rain rather than hail. A good day to be in an Outback.

    Hope you are liking San Diego and the Outback

    Cheers

    Graham
  • andytandyt Member Posts: 10
    The mat comes with the vehicle. The dog gate is very easy to take in and out. The 'moleskin' lining in the cargo area is very difficult to get fur out of. If you have dogs, you can't very well do the upside down thing with the headrests. I have removed all the rear headrests and just leave them in the back seat area (I rarely have back seat passengers).

    -andy.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    The H-6 Outback may seem small, but it is heavy—hence the 18 mpg. The car weighs over 3700#, which is as heavy, if not heavier, than some full-size cars.

    Given its weight, it really should have a larger (3.5?) H-6. The larger (but easier spinning) H-6 will certainly improve performance, and probably not hurt the gas mileage. Keep in mind, larger engines that loaf, often get better "real-world" mileage than smaller engines that are always screaming.

    Bob
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    GAM: try wax on the wheels. That'll keep them clean and prevent snow/ice from sticking in bad (good?) weather.

    Becky: the rear spoiler is probably mostly cosmetic, but I can see how it would keep the rear window clear in some situations.

    Don't overlook aftermarket tint. Mine was $170 for all 7 windows.

    -juice
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Folks,

    Do I need to get in here to keep the posts going? Someone mentioned a good point about Subaru's being so heavy and that killing gas. Looked into it and Subie's are definitely heavy. Could be a result of the safety issues. Strong cage and bars in doors etc. I have not gotten my accessories and Klassse. That stuff should be in next week. So I will have to wait til the following weekend to do it. I will be sure to post the results. Juice, apparently this Klasse works extremely well on the wheels too! Although there is no salt problem in CA! Here is a question. Do you guys think that the cars that are manufactored to be sold in CA and places with no salt have a cheaper version of rust protection? Or are all cars manufactured the same way? Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The AWD probably adds a couple hundred pounds overall, because you have the center diffy, rear diffy, half shafts, etc.

    Still, the weight penalty is not nearly as big as for Audis, for example.

    It's probably not cost effective to use different undercoatings for each location. Besides, a lot of SoCal owners take their Soobs to the mountains. There is a lot to see out there!

    -juice

    PS Folks - let me invite you to join our Subaru Crew chat tonight at 9pm eastern, about 4 hours from now. We usually get about 7 to 9 regulars chatting away, with an occasional newbie popping in to ask questions. You are very welcome to come even if you're new or just shopping, in fact I can't think of a better place to ask a group of experienced owners about their Soobs. Go to the Owners Clubs topics, then the Subaru Crew folder, and follow the link at the top of that page...
  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    Juice: I've waxed the wheel 3 times since I've
    owned it. Dealer thinks this should be a warranty
    issue. I'm waiting 'till winter is over to see if
    the other two wheel corrode. I've also just developed nasty creaking noise over certain types of bumps. It appears to be coming from the front
    of the vehicle on only appears when the suspension is unloaded. Impacts with a bump does not cause the creaking. Any thoughts?
    GAM
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    I need to applaud the guy who gave us the Velcro idea! It works great! I bought 2 pieces of heavy duty velcro. 1 inch wide by 2 inches long. I attached one to each side of the rubber mat and that was it. The mat remains secured in place. I hadn't had a problem because I have not used the trunk much. But I fixed it before it became a problem! Only one thing. The part of the velcro that attaches to the rubber mat did not want to stick so I used a little crazy glue and it is a done deal. Also, position the velcro on the part that lifts for access to the spare tire. That way when you lift it, the rubber mat moves accordingly and does not crumple or get in the way of opening that compartment! Great Idea!!!! Thanks
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Folks,
    I think I know why the brakes squeek!!! A defect? Depends. If you look at the front of a Subie, you will see we have nice fog lamps in the bottom. If you look in front of other cars you will notice that there would be an opening there for air to be funneled to the brakes. I think the brakes squeek simply due to the accumulation of brake dust. If there were no fog lamps and a hole instead the brakes most likely would not squeek. Solution! Just hose down your wheels thoroughtly when you wash the car. And then make sure to dry the brakes before driving off. Should work!

    Now here is a question? Why on Earth aren't fog lamps YELLOW like in every other country where fog is a problem. I have yet to see white fog lamps in Europe. In fact in Europe (france) some cars' headlights are yellow! Mercedes all come with strong yellow lights next to the headlights. I have turned on my Fog lamps and don't really notice much difference. You see more light on the sides. But I only notice a difference in driver's side...

    Happy Friday!
  • jasong2jasong2 Member Posts: 18
    We have now had our 2000 Outback for 1 year and 1 week (purchased with the help of this board. . .THANK YOU!!!) Only problem was in June 2000, when an oxygen sensor was replaced, which seems to be fairly common with Subaru. Absolutely no complaints. We have taken several long round trips (700-1000 miles) and have been very pleased with the highway acceleration, seat comfort, wet/snow handling, cargo room, etc. We are averaging 26mpg with 13,000 miles driven. Unlike everyone else it seems, we never had the bad smell I have read about. We have been so happy, we have talked my mother, sister, co-worker, and a stranger at the grocery store to buy a Subaru!

    Now, I need some general buying advice. I am planning to buy a 2001 Forester. I will trade-in my 1991 Nissan 4X4 pick-up. It has a cracked windshield and some minor surface rust on the exterior (over the tires). It also has 215,000 miles on it. No mechanical problems, though. Should I spend the money to fix the windshield and rust before trading it in, or am I better off just cleaning it up and using the repair money for the down payment? Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    GAM: our 626 creaks like that over speed bumps. If you find out, please share.

    Sounds like you took care of the wheels. That's odd that the finish has eroded.

    Anibal: That can happen to drums, but discs are exposed so any dust that accumulates will get scraped off next time you apply the brakes. That's why our wheels get dirty so quick, much more so with discs than drums.

    For drums, each time you wash the car spray the drums from the bottom inner side. I do this routinely. The discs are self-cleaning, though.

    Ironically, wetting the brakes can actually accelerate oxidation, so if you leave the car sitting after a wash, they'll actually squeek even more than usual.

    Patti (from SoA) said that the pads have more metallic content than most, and so they oxidize and squeek, but only when they haven't been used for a while.

    -juice

    PS Jason: I would consider donating that car instead. They'll offer you nothing for it, so get a tax deduction and feel happy with yourself. I would definitely not fix anything on it.
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    I hail originally from Britain where fog lights are a necessity. And they were (still are?) usually yellow. Most if not all cars also have rear fog lights which are simply extra bright tail lights. These started appearing about 1980 as add-ons and now are built right in to the car.

    Yellow fog lights do cut down on the glare reflected back from the fog droplets, but only because the yellow diminishes the light output somewhat. Effectiveness of fog lights is dependent on them being mounted low and having the correct beam shape (flat top).

    In France, headlights have been yellow since the year dot, when no-one knew much about it. I assume this was to reduce glare from poorly designed reflectors. I used to have to put yellow plastic things over my headlights when venturing across the channel, partly to convert the left hand dip/dimming action to right-hand and partly to stop being flashed (no, not that kind) by other drivers. And yes, this did cause the high beams to point into the fields on the right hand side of the road.

    What really bugs me about the OB and presumably all other cars here in N. America is that you can't have your fog lights on without the headlights, and the glare reflected back from the headlights is what you are trying to eliminate by providing fog lights to use instead. So the big butch macho look of the fog light equipped SUV is just a marketing gimmick.

    And why do some people use them all the time, even when there's no fog? I once got a ticket for using yellow fog lights when it was not foggy. This was about 15 years ago, 5 years before mandatory running lights in Canada. But I already knew that keeping lights on at the front reduced accidents, so I used my fog lights rather than the headlights & tail lights because the drain on the battery was less (important when you have an old car with an old battery). Didn't impress the cop though.
  • keith51keith51 Member Posts: 5
    Don't get the windshield or rust fixed as I don't think the added value on trade in would justify it. The 215,000 miles is a severe penalty on trade-in plus the dealer can fix both items, if they choose cheaper than what you'd pay. Chances are they'll only flip the car to a wholesaler anyways. My $0.02

    Keith
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day
    Actually, fog lights in Europe are usually white. The yellow is a hold over from the French who for some arcane reason introduced yellow lights at some point. A lot of English manufacturers apped a French one (Marchal?). I gather that they are now white in line with EU standards. The yellow colouring actually reduces light output reduing their effectiveness.

    When Brits travelled to Europe you used to have to paint the lamps a yellow colour before crossing the channel. This was an interesting exercise as you also had to instal cutouts to stop your left kerb aimed lights blinding drivers when you drive on the right side of the road. If you have a look at a headlight lense, you will see that there are sections which diffract the light in different directions and right hand drive lights have different cut outs to left hand drive. Some cars have a lever behind the lights to do a switch over. I think BMW did it by rotating the bulb about 15 degrees.

    As to using fog lights in day light, this is a bad move. Fog lights are meant for fog and fog only. They tend to glare other road users and should not be used in substitution for sidelights or dipped headlights which are focused away from oncoming cars.

    Rear fog lights, or more usually one rear fog light only, are routinely fited to European cars. They are a high intensity bulb intended to give greater warning from behind. Again they should only be used in fog as they tend to distract other road users night vision (they are very glaring) in normal conditions and do not allow following drivers to judge the distance perspective to the car sporting them, the differential in colour intensity between the sides of the car spoiling judgement.

    As to using fog lights without headlights, the only circumstance where I have ever found this necessary was in an intensely thick fog where the headlights were flaring so badly against te fog immediately in front of the car That I could not see the white line on the road. I turned the headlights to park position and used the fogs with them. In general this is not however a good idea.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • dannykadannyka Member Posts: 115
    I've often wished that I could drive with only the fog lights on when driving at night with a heavy snow falling. Any help in defining features on the ground and minimizing the reflection off about a zillion snowflakes really make driving a lot easier.

    -Dan
  • phowell1phowell1 Member Posts: 35
    I talked the dealer into letting me drive the Bean a few more days. That exta little for the engine is special and it sucked to the road and I really like that 3.0/ Only draw back was the mileage I drove it 220 miles on the interstate no city driving and it got 18.1 . A tahoe on good conditions can do that. I am definatley sold on Subarus but cant handle having one as a family car do to the small amount of room but for a second vehicle it would be okay. I think in all circumstances I would buy the Bean if I were to buy another Subaru. PLEASE SUBARU HURRY WITH A FULL SIZED VEHICLE
  • phowell1phowell1 Member Posts: 35
    I noticed on some Messages here and on the vdc that they have mentioned a special warranty that comes with the LL Bean that is longer than Subarus standard warranty . Is this true and were is that published? thanks Paul
  • ckfreundckfreund Member Posts: 24
    Has anyone heard if Subaru is going to extend the special interest rates? I pick up my Outback the week of March 12.
  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    Paul: The basic warranty is the same for all
    Subarus. The L.L. Bean throws in free scheduled maintanence for 3yr/36000 miles. Basically free oil changes and tire rotations for 3 years (at Subarus schedule).
    GAM
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    There was a how-to-do-it link on i-club's website a few months ago regarding a minimal rewiring of the headlight circuit to allow fog lights on with only the parking lights on, rather than having to have the headlights on as well. Don't know if it's still there. Gonna do it someday myself, just to have the option.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • powderfinger77powderfinger77 Member Posts: 6
    Graham,

    Thanks for the weather report. I'm not missing those hot rainy, humid Sydney summers. I'm originally from San Francisco and am enjoying having a bit of winter after 9 years in Sydney.

    I'm told that this is the coldest winter San Diego has had in awhile...loving the Outback thanks!

    Caleb
  • jim235jim235 Member Posts: 47
    I was told by a dealer that the 3.9% 24 month financing has been extended until the end of April.
  • jim235jim235 Member Posts: 47
    I recently discovered a thread on another site that states that all the new H-6's have a defective ECM (engine control module) that causes a problem during cold starts, and that the ECM needs to be replaced on all of these vehicles. The problem seems to usually occur when it's colder than plus 20-30 degrees and the car has been outside for a few hours. Subaru supposedly has acknowledged the problem, and is working on developing a new ECM module. (A new ECM is hopefully to be available this summer).
    I live in Fairbanks Alaska and a technical team from Subaru Japan was just here for about two weeks running cold weather engine tests on the LLBean. After reading that thread I assume the tests are probably related to the starting problem.
    I plan to factory order a VDC this week and was wondering how widespread the problem is and if anyone has any more information on this?
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    My local dealer said SOA could not put VDC in a 2.5 Legacy as the dash with the Mac radio was designed in some way to accomodate the VDC equipment too!
    I just looked at the Subaru UK site, they have 2.5 Legacys with VDC over there. So whay can't SOA put VDC in say a 2.5 GT?? They also have side airbags on ALL their cars there.
  • oregonmanoregonman Member Posts: 60
    Sorry it took so long to respond. I haven't checked in here for a while. I think the reason I didn't get any calls on my 99 OB for $18,500 is just supply and demand. Outbacks are popular around here and there are a lot for sale. I'm hoping that when it hits the three year old mark (probably with about 28K miles) I'll be able to get $17,000 to $17,500 for it. I'm not too hopeful based on the prices I am seeing now.

    Have you bought your Outback yet? If you decide to go with a Thomason ad price, I'd like to hear about the buying experience - how long does it take to do the transaction and how was the experience. I would be careful about buying from a Washington dealer if you live in Oregon. You might not be protected by lemon laws in either state. I'm not certain about that, but I would check it out if I were you. Not that I think there is much chance of you getting a lemon, but there is always a small chance. I really like Wentworth Chevy/Subaru. I have bought two Subarus from them and helped my girlfriend buy a Forester from them and the experience has always been good.
  • dniehusdniehus Member Posts: 83
    I just received an email from sales manager of Fitzgerald Subaru (Rockville, MD) indicating that the special APR rates will be continued through the end of April. It wasn't clear from his note, but I presume that this is a Subaru national financing plan. Great news!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    They always do for continuing model years. I'd be surprised it they ever let it expire for existing models.

    -juice
  • crawdadkingcrawdadking Member Posts: 46
    Sorry to say I am still sitting on the fence. Now all the good press on the VDC is making me wonder if I shouldn't go that route. I would really like to have the better sound system and would also get rid of clothing store logos. I like LL Bean and we buy a lot of stuff from them but still don't like advertising for free. Anyway I suppose the real question is; is the VDC system really worth 2k? That I don't know. I drove a VDC and quite frankly couldn't see any difference. But on dry roads what would there be to see. Maybe it was a little quieter and the stereo was definitely better. That's it for my evaluation.

    I bought a Camry from Thomason and it was a lowball ad in the paper. When I got there they had the car I wanted at the advertised price. They naturally tried to sell me an extended contract and financing but no pressure. I gave them a check for the car and was out of there in about an hour.No complaints but my deals are always simple. No trade-in and cash. In fact, when I am quoted a price I go to the dealer with a check made out for the amount they quoted and I don't take another check or any money. They take it or leave it, couldnt be simpler.

    I called Wentworth about the $26,888 LLB and they told me it was sold. They only advertised one at that price and didn't have anything else.

    Thanks for the heads up about the lemon law. I will check into that. I do want to do business with Bud Clary because they are 35 miles from home, unfortunately in another state. I know there is no problem with not paying the sales tax. So what I am trying to do is get the best price from Portland and then take my check to Bud Clary with a reaonable hope that they will take it. They keep telling me they can match anything in Portland and I intend to put them to the test. In the end I owe no loyalty to any dealer but I well might tack on a few hundred to buy from Longview.

    BTW, where are you located? Portland metro area?

    I'll keep you posted. Good luck in selling your OB

    Guy
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    I gave Erfie a thorough wash yesterday and thought I would use some Turtlewax tirewall treatment that I normally use on my other car. While doing so I noticed that the raised "Firestone" on the right front tire appears to be parting company with the sidewall.

    The raised letter is actually "hollow" and the sides of the raised part are black while the top of the raised part is white. At the point where the side of the letter meets the sidewall of the tire the black rubber is sort of disintegrating and white rubber can be seen underneath it. The other tires are all fine, the pressures are all correct and the mileage is 10,000 km, all but a 100 km or so on paved roads.

    I looked for evidence of kerb damage etc, but could see nothing, no scuffing or other marks, and the "Wilderness" on the same tire looks fine.

    Anyone found the same thing? I know that these tires are not the same as the infamous Ford Exploder ones, but they are made by the same company.

    By the way, tirewall wax does a fine job on the mudflaps.

    Grahampeters: You must have lived in the UK too. But your suggestion of using park only doesn't work on my OB because turning the headlights off turns off the foglights too. I suspect that either in the US or in Canada (or perhaps both) there is some rule that forbids foglamps without headlamps, but I don't know this for sure. If there is no such rule a rewiring could be in order, but as Dannyka says, it is only in very thick fog or falling snow that foglights are worthwhile. The kind of fog we get here in Vancouver is not what I would call really thick. The kind we used to get in the UK actually stopped most people from driving at all, with visibility down to 10 feet or so. And those who did drive had to proceed at about 5 or 10 mph or they crashed anyway.
  • oregonmanoregonman Member Posts: 60
    I am in the Portland Metro area. I'm not too suprised you didn't find the car you wanted from Wentworth. The one bad thing about them is that they don't have as many cars as the other dealers. On the other hand, when I've looked at Thomason they have had rows and rows of cars - all equipped with exactly the same options. That brings me to a pet peeve of mine - why do they call them options and then put them on every single car? When we were shopping for my girlfriends Forester, we wanted an L without the rear dust deflector and tweeter kit, but every single one of them had those so called options. And I looked at every single lot in the Portland area.

    If your dealer of choice offers to match a Thomoson below invoice advertised price, go for it. The prices they advertise are incredible, that's why I asked about the buying experience. They can't be making any money on the car, so I was wondering if they made it tough to buy it if you don't finance through them or have a trade in that they can make money on.
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Folks,

    My Klasse kit has arrived today. I am looking forward to putting it on the car over this coming weekend. I got the two bottles 1.) All-in-one 2.) Glaze sealer. I will wash the car on thursday or Friday night to let it dry overnight til the next day. I will attempt to put klasse on sat or sun if it doesn't rain. The instructions tell the user to attempt the half hood test! It seems the manufacturer is very confident of their product. I will see. I will also apply it to the wheels. Especially since the wheels on the OB ltd. are painted gold! I will definitely post the results!

    Fog lights without headlights to me is not a good idea. It may let you see better in very dense fog. But it will make you less visible to other traffic!!! That might be the reason you can't turn them on without headlamps being on!!!
  • crawdadkingcrawdadking Member Posts: 46
    I think I have your answer but you probably aren't going to like it. All those options you named off are PIO and I have a feeling they fall in about the same catagory as a "first aid kit" type of option. This is one that is almost all profit for the dealer. So if the dealer can add enough of this junk, they can run the price up to where it looks like you are getting a great deal but they are making a bundle.

    However, having said that, Thomason is continually advertising LLB's with MSRP of $30,920 for $27,388. Now having sudied this and talking to Thomason I know what options
    that includes (sound upgrade and spoiler and that's it) I can live with that, tho to tell the truth I don't want the spoiler.

    In any case $3532 off MSRP sounds ok to me. If I decide on an LLB and BUD Clary will give me that price I will probably go for it. Now I'm just waiting for the proceeds from an IRA to pay for the dang thing. Probably within a week I will make my move, assuming Bud Clary has anything in a color my wife wants (it's white this week)

    Are you serious about the LLB? If so why don't you swing by Thomason and feel it out. Can't hurt to look (can it?). It's to far for me to drive just to satisfy my curiosity. I will if Clary turns me down but not until.

    Keep me posted on your quest

    Guy
  • donbensondonbenson Member Posts: 5
    Jim,

    I have a 2001 Outback Wagon, "regular" model not a H-6, and I've experienced this problem. Almost couldn't start in zero degrees when car was outside overnight. Someone advised me that there was a defective ECM issue but I haven't gone back to the dealer yet.

    Don
  • ccrokeccroke Member Posts: 8
    Has anyone experienced knocking during the warm-up period after you start your engine? I called the dealership, they said it was normal and that it should go away after the engine reaches normal operating temp. He stated that the 97-99 models were affected by this and SUB says no damage is done. Any input would be helpful.

    We bought it a month ago and we love it. NOTHING can stop this car in a snow storm!
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Clark, quite a few of the phase one 2.5 engines had a problem with piston slap when cold, Subaru were replacing these engines if you screamed loud enough, my advice would be to have an independant Mechanic listen to the noise and make sure it is nothing serious I would not trust the dealer in this instance for an objective diagnosis, if it is serious it it will be the best 1 hours labour you will ever spend for your car if not I would still consider it money well spent for peace of mind.
    Cheers Pat.
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Hey Guys,

    Does anyone know about the extended warranty options available for Subaru's? Is it 7 years 100K? Or 10 years? Also, does anyone know how much this costs? It seems that you have until the regular warranty expires to make the decision. Thanks.
  • dniehusdniehus Member Posts: 83
    Like everything, extended warranties are negotiable. The max available from Subaru is 7/100,000. There are many other combinations as well, so buy only what you expect to use (i.e., average annual mileage, how long you plan to keep the vehicle). Subaru offers two plans - "Classic" and "Gold". The latter is "bumper to bumper" and much preferred. Also, be sure to compare pricing on different deductibles (0, 50, 100).

    I got widely divergent quotes from 3 different Subaru dealers so it definitely pays to shop around. The one I'm going with quoted around $680 for 6/80000 with $50 deductible for the Gold plan. That's an outstanding value given that many dealers for other vehicles ask upwards of $1500 for comparable coverage. Apparently this is a very high profit item or some other companies aren't as convinced in the quality of their product as Subaru.

    Fortunately for me the low bidder on the extended warranty is also selling OB's for $200 under invoice. So they're not trying to make their money on the warranty. (How are they making money?) You are correct, you can purchase up until the expiration of the factory warranty. You may be able to purchase the warranty from a different dealer than where you purchased. Again, shop around!

    Similarly, if interested, you probably will find different pricing on Subaru's maintenance plan. Good luck!
  • crawdadkingcrawdadking Member Posts: 46
    Just thought you might be interested in this. I just got a call from Sanderson Subaru in The Dalles. the sales manager (Bodie) was answering an e-mail I sent. At first he offered me a VDC at $500 over invoice but I told him I wasn't interested in going to The Dalles. We talked some more and it finally wound up that he would sell me an LLB or a VDC for $100 over invoice. (he is going to confirm that by e-mail) He also said that all the paperwork could be done over the internet and he would deliver the car to my doorstep. Not to shabby if everything is on the level. He did impress me as a straight shooter but who knows for sure.

    Anyway his web site is www.autocost.com if you are interested.

    Good luck

    Guy
  • jim235jim235 Member Posts: 47
    I asked the person whose dealer said that all of the H6 ECM's were defective to double check that it did indeed affect all H6's. He contacted the dealer's service manager who confirmed that all of them are defective. Supposedly Subaru has acknowledged the defect.
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Thanks so much for the info on the extended warranty. I would prefer to go to another dealer. The one I dealt with was a jerk. But being the only one near by and it was my first new car purchase, I got too nervous too fast. No biggie. Definitely a learning experience! I don't put much miles on the car so essentially I am buying time! And I have plenty of time left! No need to spend money now when I can wait nearly 3 years! Thanks a lot!
  • jim235jim235 Member Posts: 47
    The low bid dealer I found, also at $200 below invoice and probably the same dealer, offered to provide extended warranties at $100 over their cost. The following are their quotes for some of the 'Gold Plus' bumper to bumper warranties w/zero deductable: 5yr/60 $567.00 6yr/60 $621.00 6yr/80 $784.00 5yr/100 $992.00 6yr/100 $1,084 7yr/100 $1,229.00. The last is more than $1000 under the suggested retail price ($2258) for the extended warranty. These prices were good however only at the time of purchase of the vehicle. Even though the warranty can be brought later it may cost a lot more. However, since you can buy it from any dealer and use it at any dealer, you can still price hunt later for the best deal available.
  • dniehusdniehus Member Posts: 83
    I think we are talking about the same dealer in MD! Exact same prices I was quoted for coverage. I don't believe, however, that they mentioned that those prices were only good at the time of purchase. So, thanks for that info. As of today, their vehicle prices are now about $250 below invoice. I wonder how much lower they might go? (Probably wishful thinking.)
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Can you guys give me the name of that dealer so that I can call. Or maybe their website? Thanks!
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