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Subaru Outback VDC

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  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    I want to buy a set of alloys to mount dedicated snows on for an 06 OBW. It seems like going to a -1 16" wheel for snows would be the best choice. Anyone bought any aftermarket wheels for this application?

    Do the 16" from previous years fit the 06's? I can probably get some OEM 16" rims on eBay.
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    I don't think it is worth the extra bucks. I went from a FWD (w/ snows) to a AWD (05 OB) and there is a world of difference. Going up my snowy steep driveway was an effort w/ the old car w/ the snow tires, sometimes not possiable before I got them. W/ the AWD and the standard tires I have had no problems, I even tested it by stopping on the steep part, then continued up, barely a wheel spin.

    If you do get it it will most likely be something that you will be happy with everytime you are in a slippery situation justifying to yourself if it wasn't for the VDC you would have had problems.

    If you don't get it, I really don't see a time while driving that you wished you had it RIGHT NOW.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Make sure the brakes clear. I don't think they grew for 06 so they probably do.

    -juice
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Do the 16" from previous years fit the 06's? I can probably get some OEM 16" rims on eBay.

    Found the answer courtesy Joe Spitz. Both 17x7jj offset 48 (1.89) and 16x6" offset 48 (1.89)fit both 2005 and 2006.

    Still don't know about the 16" on the 2000-2004.
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    My wife's 2003 Outback 16" alloy rims have a 48mm offset, same as the ones on my 2001 Forester S.

    Len
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Kewl - thanks!
  • farbsfarbs Member Posts: 4
    Did ya hear anything? This is a mystery that needs solving.

    Just had the same problem. 2001, just short of 60k. Burned through new battery and alternator (both requiring out of state tows w/ the family on board). Now the brake/battery light are on.

    Who'd have thunk that our VW Jetta is more relable than our Subaru?!
  • catcardccatcardc Member Posts: 1
    What a coincidence - I have 2001 Outback Limted - 47,000 mi. The other night, after not having driven it for about a month, I started it and the brake light wouldn't go off, then ABS light, oil light, battery light came on, the wipers were moving very slow and lights were dimming. Engine died after driving a few blocks. Then after a few minutes it started again and drove it a few blocks - until it died. Then I waited, started it and let it idle for 10 minutes and managed to get it home. Next day it started like normal - no funny indicator light behavior. Drove it to Sears and bought new battery. Things were fine for about a week - including 90 mile drive out of town. Then today, it made a loud noise, and power died again - this time Check Engine light comes on. Towed to Subaru Dealer - Tow truck driver thinks it is alternator (which was a previous theory prior to battery replacement). I will post again when we get results - but from reading this blog it sounds like a pattern is forming on this make/model. Never thought I would have trouble like this at 47 K miles with a Subaru.
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    I don't know if the 2000+ cars had the problem, but older Subarus had a recall on the alternator. It would not charge at highways speed - just at low speed. So folks would drive down the highway, encounter problems, get off, problems go away, get back on - etc.

    Might be worth checking into.
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    The symptoms you describe (dash indicator lights coming on and staying on) sound exactly like what happened to my 2001 Forester, as well as my neighbor's 2001 Forester. On both vehicles, it was the alternator, which we each had replaced. That was over this past summer, at approximately 120,000 miles (mine) and 70,000 (neighbor). No problems since.

    Len
  • smokeybaersmokeybaer Member Posts: 38
    Sounds familiar. First my starter went at about 90,000 mi. (gear didn't engage but it spun like mad). Then the lights flashing bit happened a couple times. Dealer tested and the alternator was only putting out about 1/2 of normal. They said battery was OK but a couple thousand miles later it was found to have a bad cell and was replaced as well. By then I had around 98,000 and my warrenty expired at 100,000 so traded it on an 05 legacy GT, Since totaled. Wife thought I should have kept the 01 since nearly everything had been replaced. Other items were Radiator, Both front wheel bearings, Front rotors, & Transmission. I was just afraid to trust it anymore. Motor was perfect however with no troubles at all.
    Warren

    Warren
  • dentanadentana Member Posts: 1
    Just bought the 2006 Outback 2.5XT turbo. Fleet salesperson we purchased auto from at Shortline Subaru in Denver swears that "because of the altitude" there is no reason to use premium. He drives same make/model and uses 85 octane. Subaru owners manual says Premium only for turbo; use of octane less than 91 can void warranty (not sure how they'd prove that).

    Just find it odd that fleet salesperson would advise customers to take action that Subaru specifically warns against. For the time being, until I hear differently, I will start using premium. Have gone about 1,000 miles so far on mid-grade (87 octane) and don't notice any performance or pinging issues, but don't want to take any chances. Besides, it's usually only an extra 2 - 3 bucks per fill up. Any other insight on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Congrats on your purchase!

    It is true that one can run lower octane at higher altitudes since the thinner air does resist detonantion.

    However, I'm not sure about a turbo engine. Since a turbo can maintain mainfold pressure, it will compensate for the lower ambient pressure by increasing boost. I'd ask Subaru about that one and be careful before using a lower grade.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Exactly, with excess efficiency, a turbo will just use its bleed off valve a bit less at altitude. That's why turbos hardly lose any power, while N/A engines are wheezing.

    You can probably get away with mid-grade, but I'd still opt for the highest octane I could get.

    -juice
  • theooutbacktheooutback Member Posts: 19
    I agree that VDC should be cheaper - the Electronic Stability Control Coalition notes that stability control can be priced as low as $500. An interesting site for tzarina to look at perhaps: http://www.esceducation.org/

    I note that VDC is intended to prevent a skid, which is more critical the higher the car is. Thus it seems to be standard on more and more SUVs since a skid often results in roll-overs for those cars. We have it in our Toyota mini-van and I'm glad to have it there for the extra help.

    Also, I note that VDC is an option on 2.5i models on the models listed on the Subaru Global website http://www.subaru-global.com/lineup/outback/safety/ac_control.html and is standard on all 3.0s on the global site. http://www.subaru-global.com/ It's too bad that it's an upscale option on the US Outback still.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Very interesting...so they have got it to work with other powertrains.

    -juice
  • kwolffkwolff Member Posts: 1
    I have a brand new (600) miles outback, from day one had an electrical circuit that went in and out. It affected the remote starter, remote door lock, radio and interior lights and clock display. first they thought it was a fuse, then the remote starter instalation, then a loose wire coming out of the under hood fuse box. fixed three times, each time sure they had found the problem, the third time I drove home and the next morning it was dead had to be towed. Ever hear of this. They (Subaru America)have the option now of replacing it or sending a factory rep to diagnose and fix.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No, but at least they're sending the right person. Must be some sort of electrical short or something.

    -juice
  • denniskey04denniskey04 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same outback and had the similar problem, replaced the alternator and battery around 60,000, 07-04-05. Now, at 85,000 another alternator. Upon first startup ran low idle (30 degrees out), hestitision, and stalled, but no trouble light. Ran well after warmed up. I don't know what tomorrow will bring...most likely the dealer...
    I will post results!
  • farbsfarbs Member Posts: 4
    An update. Dealer said bad alternator and put in a new one. Went back to garage that put in first alternator and they tested it. Yep, it's bad. So far no new problem with new alternator. Fingers crossed.
  • oclvframeoclvframe Member Posts: 121
    Hi,

    I am staring at 116,700mi on my 01 LL Bean. I am curious if anyone with an H-6 has replaced their chain or had any problems related to the chain. I haven't had any problems but was warned that the chain should be replaced at 150kmi. That doesn't sound right to me...I thought the chain would pretty much stretch a little bit but basically last the life of the car. Any comments? Thoughts?

    -r
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Who warned you? Perhaps a dealer that wants to make the profit from the service. What does the owner's manual say? I'd go according to that.

    -juice
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    Hi Juice et al,

    Last login was 3/14/05! Been a long time. Good to see the same support here! I always promised to report back, in turn for all the good info you guys supply.

    My 2001 LLBean H6 is reaching 87,000 miles and still [knock on wood] continuing to provide flawless reliability. No problems...zip.

    My front rotors/pads are ready to be replaced [the one design flaw this model run had - along with the stupid side window grommets]. Question.... do I shell out $450. for Subaru rotors/pads (they say there have been NO design changes from the original) OR do I go to Meineke brakes for $275. and maybe get a better designed rotor/pad combo?

    Your expert advice??

    Thanks,

    Ralph
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Hey Ralph,

    Facing the same dilemma on my '02 OBW, the stock rotors and pads were exactly what I wanted to avoid. I still have problems with the pads sticking to the rotors after leaving the car parked outside for more than a few days (airports, etc.).

    After some research, I settled on a set of PowerSlot Frozen Rotors (slotted disks, cryo treated), and Hawk HPS (Street Performance) pads. When I do the snows to all-seasons changeover in a few weeks, they go on. While you can get them cheaper, I went to TireRack (around $400) as I figured that they are more likely to help if I have any problems.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good to hear from you again.

    I really have no idea about the quality of the Meineke rotors. What kind of warranty do they include?

    I think I'd shop for those PowerSlots. Slotted rotors have gaps for the gasses to escape and increase the surface area for more efficient cooling, plus they don't crack in extreme circumstances like drilled rotors do.

    Why not get an upgrade for just $125 more?

    -juice
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    I am staring at 116,700mi on my 01 LL Bean. I am curious if anyone with an H-6 has replaced their chain or had any problems related to the chain.

    Short answer - no problems are being reported on dedicated Subaru websites that have 10-100x the messages here at Edmunds.

    Email Subaru on the website and they'll snail mail you a response a couple weeks later. Chains can wear out but it's not typical.

    What dealer told you this?
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    The chain doesn't need to be replaced. I don't plan on changing it unless I have to....

    Ralph
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    Steve,

    Thanks. Sounds good. I think I'm going to get the Frozen Rotors cryo-treated rotors and bring them to a lifetime brake place near me - they use Wagner brake pads.

    That way I should be covered for the life of the Beaner (at 88K now)...and avoid the warped rotor syndrome...

    Thanks for the info!

    Ralph
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Hey Ralph,

    If you didn't follow my brake story over in the Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions, I'll give you the Readers Digest Condensed version.

    The week before I planned to do the work, I had the front right inside pad break apart. Friction material had glued itself to the rotor again, and when it snapped free, it was ejected right out of the caliper assembly!

    I got everything apart, only to find that my '02 was not really an '02 in the brakes department, and had to go back to TireRack for '01 brake pads (old style). Gotta tell you, that really annoyed me big time! I feel a bit cheated, as the changes in design and effective sweep area were pretty substantial.

    It is a little weak when cold, but grips very nicely when warmed up a bit. I am hoping it is not too slow to stabilize on a cold winter day. Overall, I think I am pretty happy with the setup. And those rotors sure are pretty! They say the plating will keep most of the surfaces from ever rusting.

    Steve
  • firstovfirstov Member Posts: 31
    Hello,
    It's getting hotter now and when I turn on the AC it only blows not very cool air. In addition when I press AC button I can hear it kick in, but for the first 30 seconds it makes strange kind of ticking sound that disappears later.
    This sounds like a leaf in the vent.
    Is this some easy fix like adding $20 AC refrigerant from Walmart or something more serious?
    The car is out of warranty.
    Thanks!
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    Hi Steve,

    Yikes! Sounds like you weren't in harm's way. Good thing!

    Did more research, too. I've decided to get the Frozen Rotors ($230.) from TR and have a local shop put ceramic pads ($89.) on w/ a lifetime guarantee - only $45. labor to replace. That way I'm pretty well covered.

    Local shop said the Frozen Rotor option is becoming popular with in-the-know Outback owners trying to avoid the warped rotor syndrome. And they mentioned I should go with the ceramic pads with those rotors. Hope it works...

    Thanks again for steering me toward them!

    Ralph
  • firstovfirstov Member Posts: 31
    well, I've dropped the car at the dealer and they just added a can of refrigerant fixing all problems.
    :)
  • dchisholmdchisholm Member Posts: 1
    This is in reply to the two individuals that mentioned they had electical problems wih their 2001 outback. Same thing has occurred with me with my 2000 outback, and despite the replacement of an alternator two weeks ago it reoccurred today. I now feel like tha lternator was a band-aid to a problem that was not correctly diagnosed. What was the eventual repair to your cars? Thank you very much
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    There was an alternator recall for an odd problem - it would charge at low speeds but not highway speeds. So extended highway driving would drain the battery.

    Perhaps some of the dealers are conditioned to look at this problem, and not beyond it. On dedicated forums there are not routine postings of electrical problems like you describe, which sounds on the face of it like a loose connection.
  • squintsquint Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 VDC for the long weekend before signing all the papers to make it mine on Tuesday. Any specific things to look for or be aware of? 84K miles. Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    One good thing about a used Subie is that any problems tend to be obvious. Turn off the radio on your test drive and open the windows, the H6 is a quiet powertrain and you don't want any loud noises from the drivetrain.

    Brakes were an issue for some, so see if the pedal pulses under hard braking, if so just budget to have the rotors turned (or replaced).

    -juice
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Take it to a parking lot and do some figure 8's. There shouldn't be any unusual noises from the drivetrain.

    Unlike the turbos the H6's tend to have been babied.
  • swbo101swbo101 Member Posts: 13
    Hi again. 2001 H6 VDC. This intermittent problem of having both ABS and VDC lights come on simultaneously is more and more frequent. I went to a dealer tonight and the error code on the machine read as follow: "72: ABNORMAL YAW RATE SENSOR OUTPUT (LATEST) (1800)." The dealer didn't have a clue. They don't repair VDC systems often. They had to refer to the Subaru Canada Head Office in Toronto. No news yet. Is there anybody on this planet who has nay idea of what is wrong with the system? Is there only a small short circuit in the wiring? If so, whre o I start to look? Is the problem coming from the ABS or the VDC system? Anyone got a clue? In the beginning, when those two lights went on, I used to shut down the engine and on re-start they didn't light for about a week. But now, they go on every day... Tricky question, no?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would check the tires first, are they all evenly worn and have the same pressure? The diameter should be close, all within 1/4" of each other.

    Call 800-SUBARU3 to open up a case file. They will help track the case. They usually bring in a regional manager for tougher issues like yours. The case just helps you track it better, and makes sure you're getting all the help you need.

    -juice
  • swbo101swbo101 Member Posts: 13
    Hi. Thanks for taking the time to read my case. The tires are all of the same brand and are worn evenly. After the guy took a reading from the ODB (or what's it's called!), the lights stayed off until this afternoon when they suddenly lighted up on the highway. I had driven then about 100km (60 miles). Later this afternoon, after leaving the gas station, I sensed something in the left front wheel (the same noise as when the VDC system goes on at start-up) and the two lights immediately went on. After getting home, I took all the ABS and VDC related fuses off and put them back in. The lights are off since then (two starts and about 20km). As for the 800-SUBARU3 number, is it valid only in the States?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Oh, yeah, sorry. I'm sure Subaru of Canada has a similar number? Anyone?

    OBDII - on-board diagnostics, level II. I own a scanner myself. It's handy. A chipmunk ate some of my wires and it threw a code, so I had to read it. I've used it once for my wife (loose gas cap) and twice for different friends that complained they had 'em.

    -juice
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Let SOC handle it. I had a bad ABS sensor in the RF of my '97 and got an intermittant ABS light. So there are other components in the system to check.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Looks like this model will be dropped for 2007, and they'll incorporate VDC in to other existing models (9 of them in the Legacy/Outback range).

    -juice
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    juice

    will that be for MT as well as AT??? just what I have been waiting for!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Check out the Subaru Crew - Future Models thread, all 9 models that get VDC are listed there.

    -juice
  • oclvframeoclvframe Member Posts: 121
    I finally got me a set of Legacy GT wheels! I hate the wheels that came on my 01 LL Bean....They take just as long to clean as it takes to clean the entire vehicle. This weekend, I ran into someone that knew of a set for sale. I bought them with the sales pitch to the wife being that since I needed new tires anyway, here I could get a set of wheels that already had tires (with only 10k mi on them) for less. Now, I have the wheels I want, unfortunately the tires are 215/45s...so they look dorky as all get out. But with a treadware rating of 160 on the RE92s...I will be tossing them in 6-8months anyway! I will post a picture as soon as I can.

    BTW...the speedo error is 7.6%....so now I am having to re-train myself as to a safe speed to set the cruise at for my early morning commute to work!

    BTW...anyone interested in a set of 01 LLBean wheels?

    -r
  • jcariocajcarioca Member Posts: 5
    Hello,
    I would like to start by thanking all the people who have submitted posts. I like doing as much research as possible before I buy, and this page has made finding that info very easy.

    Although my VDC is in great shape and seems to run smooth, ran into some problems this morning on the way to work...
    Started the car, no problem, started driving, no problem, 4-5 km later the car suddenly cut power to the engine. The engine would still crank, but would not turn over.
    Thank God I bought an extended warranty program with the car, but I have only had it for a week! I read so many great things about Subaru, and being a Honda owner I put reliability at the top of my priority list when looking in to buying a car. Has anyone heard of the reason for this? The lights and electrics still work but no go with the engine.
    Any suggestions for this new worried Subaru owner would be great... I still have faith that Subarus are reliable, but this event has put a small question of my judgement in to play.
    Please give me the scoop if there is one.
    Thanks,
    New broke down Subie owner.
    John :(
  • jcariocajcarioca Member Posts: 5
    So, the shop has come back with the issue as the fuel pump. They say that it got fried! The real bad part about this is that the Pump costs $590.00 and my max coverage is $500.00... meanning I need to pay the labour and the extra 90 bucks for the part! I have only had this car for week and it is going to cost me $300-$400 to get it fixed :lemon: ! I am starting to think i should have kept my Honda... I would like to try and get this covered by the dealer or the warranty company... any suggestions... BTW I am in Canada (Toronto). Any advice would be great! :confuse: :sick:
    Thanks,
    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's a strange limitation for the warranty, $500 cap? Odd.

    Any how, the trick here is that is a used car, we don't know how the previous owner treated it.

    Since you're getting a new fuel pump, I'd ask for a new fuel filter as well.

    When I buy a used car, I do a 60k service on it even if the mileage isn't at 60k, because I want what I call a "baseline" on the age of all wear and tear items. So I change the fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve, O2 sensor, oil and filter, gear oil, and differential oil. I also bleed the brakes and flush the coolant.

    That way you know all the fluids are new, and can get on your own maintenance schedule.

    Rack this up to bad luck and/or previous owner neglect (maybe they never changed the fuel filter?), one problem is not a pattern so don't worry about it.

    -juice
  • jcariocajcarioca Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the advice Juice. I called the warranty company as well as the dealer... I just told them how I felt about this situation, and "done", they covered all costs involved. I picked my car up today, and it seems to be running okay. I also mentioned (to the warranty company)that I would be going to a Subaru Dealer to get a full inspection done to see if there is anyhting else I need to address.

    Due to the fact they helped me so quick, I feel as though they deserve some props for their attention in this matter....So....
    Special Thanks to
    -Leon's Fine Cars - Etobicoke ON, Canada (Emmil)
    -A-Protect - Toronto ON Canada (Shenelle)
    -All people that have taken the time to share their problems and solutions on this board.

    Thanks again,
    Hoping for a better week to come.... still love my car :)

    "Feeling better" Subaru owner,
    John
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