-September 2024 Special Lease Deals-
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Subaru Outback VDC
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
carioca - are you from Brazil? I am from Recife. Vai Brasil!
-juice
I also have a 2001 VDC, and this happens to me, too. I've never had it checked out, because when it happens, I just turn off the car & restart it, and it goes away. It seems to happen more when it's cold out (i.e. when I'm more likely to need them!). It hasn't happened since last winter or spring that I can remember.
Christina
Just wanted to mention that I have not had the trademark "warning light" problem... I have noticed some jolting in the transmission when gears change and when put in reverse. The brakes do make a grunting sound when the car is still cold, but I heard that is just the fluid warming up. Outside of that, i seem to be having a clunking sound coming from the passenger rear tire area... thinking it is a bearing (going to get serviced this week)
I guess for a car with well over 150 k on it you have to expect things to come up. Still very happy with the car overall. Just wondering if anyone has seen this problem with their 2001 VDC? Is it a bearing? Also, has anyone had the "jolting tranmission" issue looked in to? It seems that it may be dangerous, especialy in parking lots when driving slow.... sometimes it accelerates like I am giving it heavy gas when I am not even pressing the pedal. Any info would be great.
Thanks as always,
John
The intermittent ABS and VDC lights do come on about once every two weeks now. I do like the other members who have the same problem: I patiently wait to arrive where I want to go and when I leave I'm sure those two lights won't be coming on again! If I am to travel a long distance, I park on the curbside and shut off the motor and restart it immediately. Apart from that, I hear a noise from one of the front two tires (I think one must have become unbalanced) and I hear some screech when I turn up the volume on the radio (I then shut the radio off and rapidly turn the knob both directions a couple of times and the screech goes away for the rest of the day!) Is there a product I can spray on the knob; can the button be easily pry off? Oh yeah, the front suspension is squeaking a little when you push on the front bumper. What is the average life of the shocks in kms?
I don't have an answer to your problem but, have you tried:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.net/
there is a host of mechanically minded subaruites that can answer a miriad of questions.
THIS is a great forum but, ultimatesubaru is a great forum also and has really helped me and my mechanic with my '96 Legacy wagon problems.
good luck
russell
Haven't been here since last May when I bought front Frozen Rotors/ceramic pads for my LLBean H6. I always said I would check back in to report on the Beaner... as payback for all I learned about Subbies from you guys...
Just passed 100K! It continues to be a flawless performer [knock on plastic wood] - definitely the most reliable car I ever bought. The Frozen Rotors from TireRack fixed the front rotor problem. I'm convinced Subaru underdesigned the front brakes... they underestimated the weight of the new (at the time) H6 and how fast some folks drive in the US... and thus brake coming off of exit ramps...
Except for the rotors and the front gosset(sp?) wind noise, this baby is still as solid as the day I brought it home from the dealer. And it still rides like day 1 - especially when I punch it to the floor. The engine still has the same power/sound as day 1... like a jet plane kicking in. I love blowing other expensive cars off the road "that's a Subaru?"... lol Also, still gets that same Subbie smell in the rain / snow after cruising on the highway. Reassures me everything is OK and reminds me of when it was a baby...
At the rate it is aging, I'd say it is in its 20s - destined for over 300K...
Take care and keep up the great work!!
Ralph
100k is a life time for many rotors anyway, so don't sweat it.
Brakes got bigger the year after they launched the H6, didn't they? And then again when the new models came out. Subaru at least addressed it in subsequent model years.
-juice
I've had the crypto Frozen Rotors for about 15K and they seem to be holding up fine with the ceramic pads. It was worth the investment to solve the problem...
Ralph
My very early production '02 Outback (4 cyl) has the earlier, smaller '01 brakes. I thought I was buying into the upgrade, but got jipped on this item. I went Cryo slotted Frozen Rotors from Tire Rack also, but in combo with the Hawk HPS (iron-carbon) pads last Spring (about 7k miles ago for me...).
Oddly enough, I am thinking I might go thru the 'bedding' process again. My rotors look squeeky clean again, and stopping distances / pedal effort is on the rise. As though I have somehow stripped off all the transfered material layer that makes brakes work. Very odd...
Steve
Then again, the PCs we buy from Dell are stranger - you never know when some of the components change. Seems like no two are exactly alike!
-juice
I'm in the market for an 01-04 VDC edition Subaru Outback, so the question is very timely for me. Mostly looking at 01-03 years.
I read above the 01 had smaller brakes and wondering how much this affects safety performance, and whether these can be replaced with later larger brakes and at what cost in parts and labor.
I prefer the 6 cylinder Outback and prefer the VDC edition. Second preference would be the LL Bean H6.
All I do know is I went to Power Slot Frozen [Cryo] Rotors and ceramic pads and never looked back. It solved my problem of warped rotors - a common problem on many heavy cars...
Thanks to this forum’s help, I’ve narrowed our Outback search to an H6 VDC edition, roughly 01-05 model years, and would appreciate your feedback on the following VDC vehicles we’re evaluating. I’d like to send the best 1-2 options for a thorough garage inspection right away. Which are the best 1-2 values to send for inspection? Which would you be cautious about/stay away from?
All are supposed to be in good cosmetic condition, but can’t be sure about the mechanics until an inspection, and the cost of inspections can start to add up.
Arranged in order of year and asking price, includes mileage and KBB and Edmunds estimates based on temporary assumption of car’s condition based on seller description (before I have inspected).
A) 2001, Miles 130,000, Asking $8,000, Dealer seller. KBB $10,875, Edmunds $10,528, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Concerned the big delta between the asking price and KBB and Edmunds could mean something is seriously wrong.
2001, Miles 82,740, Asking $12,000, Individual seller. KBB $12,755, Edmunds $13,168, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller claims that car was always dealer serviced.
C) 2001, Miles 60,680, Asking $12,400, Individual seller. KBB is $14,170 Edmunds $13,958 assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Seller says he bought from previous owner (a son who inherited from father and didn’t need the car). Seller says he buys a few cars/year, cleans them up for resale to make a few bucks. Condition notes - small ding on driver’s side door, tiny paint scratch over rear bumper that was painted over, a little scuffing on outside of driver’s seat.
D) 2003, Miles 74,800, Asking $14,000, Dealer seller. KBB $14,505, Edmunds $16,176, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good.
E) 2003, Miles 65,000, Asking $15,000, Dealer seller. KBB $15,730, Edmunds $16,188, assuming good condition. Cosmetic condition looks good.
F) 2001, Miles 61,500, Asking $16,000. Dealer Seller. KBB $14,110 and Edmunds $13,849, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Looks WAY overpriced.
G) 2003, 46,000 miles, $17,000, Dealer seller. KBB $19,315 and Edmunds $18,186, assuming excellent condition. Cosmetic condition looks good. Has OnStar system (though could care less about OnStar).
To be honest those prices seem high to me, though.
Only the 2003 with 46k miles would have a warranty remaining.
You think ALL those prices are high? The 46,000 mi 2003 is $2000 below KBB, and there are several others below KBB, though I'd agree the asking prices should be lower.
Sorry, I skipped the first part and missed that.
No wonder the prices are higher. The VDC model was way upscale, with the fancy stereo, the H6, stability and traction control, etc.
I don't think the timing chain has a replacement interval. It should last the life of the engine. Even the belts last 105,000 miles.
2005 and later Outback H6s can tow 3000 (H4 2700), but again with that trailer brake restriction.
Bob
I am looking for a shop or person that could help me resolve problems with VDC on 2001 Outback Legacy VDC car.
The symptom of the problem is the VDC and ABS light comes on. When the diagnostic code is read, it is steer wheel sensor error...
Attempts to replace steering wheel sensor, and calibration of sensor was not successfull.
Also, the other symptom, is that the VDC turns on when it should not turn on.