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cheap part
you can do the diagnostics yourself for about $200 . check VAG-COM
The width of the battery is no problem: it's 10" wide, and there's about 13.25" of space width-wise under the driver's seat.
It's the height under the driver's seat that's the main constraint. I measured that I could handle a battery as high as about 7.75". Laid sideways, the Blue-top D34M is just 6.83", so it was no problem.
In terms of the other direction, depth (i.e. forward/backward with respect to the front of the car and back of the car), I measured that I could take a battery that was 7.75" deep and remain seated on the metal battery plate (I bet I could probably handle something larger if I didn't care to stay seated on that plate). Anyway, although the specs on Optima's web site say that it's 7.9" (which exceeds my 7.75" depth allowance), it fits. The reason is that the metal terminals have some height...maybe an inch or so. I did have to remove and get rid of the little metal screw-down tab that locks the battery in place to the floor of the car. That's alright; I think the battery is relatively boxed-in / secure enough in there to be safe... and not need to be locked down.
P.S. One thing confused me when buying the battery. I had hoped to buy the Yellow-top D34/78 because that's what I've seen other folks post about. But Costco didn't carry it. From what I can tell, the Blue-top D34M is identical (the specs seem to indicate the same physical dimensions, same deep-cycle, and same electrical specs)... except that the Yellow-Top has an extra set of side-terminals.
Also, I don't quite understand why I'm finding that the Blue-top D34M fits fine, when others say that the Yellow-Top D34/78 (which according to Optima's web site's specs has almost identical dimensions) doesn't fit and needs to have it's top terminals cut off. Maybe that's true for Vanagons... or maybe that's was true for earlier versions of the Yellow-top battery. I dunno.
Thank you!
Anyone else at there make the same decision, and what was their experience?
I bought the WR-C model (commercial van tires) and they are stiff and will ride rough. I have 50lb psi in them. They look good and should last well over 40k, from what I was told. Those run about $142/ea with approx. $15 shipping for each.
The WRG2 model will cost you nearly $300 more in the total.
The closest nokiantire is 500 miles away. Maybe reason for a road trip :-)
This is the 2.5L 5 cylinder, right?
My somewhat-educated guess is that it is the Idle Control Valve (a.k.a. the Idle Stabilization Valve), part number W0133-1601935, $200 to $400, depending upon where you get it.
InlineFive
Would the idle control valve have an effect at that speed?
Thanks,
Bruce
They are commercial Van tires and will ride rough. The tire place where I had them put on put 50psi in them because it was the lowest they could. I had a group within them once and still they road a bit rough, but I'll live with it and not pay the extra $300 for another set of Nokians that have a lower weight rating.
Call the people at the Meadow Creek Performance website(http://www.meadowcreektire.com/dealers.html). It's toll free: 1800-222-7360.
Meadow Creek Performance Tire Warehouse
4985 Colorado Blvd.
80216 Denver, Colorado
1-800-222-7360
Finding tires for the rialta is a PITA, nokian just sent me the last hakka cs in 215/65-16 this side of the atlantic! I was stuck a 1000 miles form home 2 years ago when I lost 2 tires on the road and the same thing happened again, they had to fedex me the last one in the country and I had to drive home with no spare!
Thanks!
I also had the same issue with our 1993 Eurovan, but that one sounded like a very loud angry cat. We have gotten sort of accustomed to driving around cold but it’s getting old. Help!
Thanks!
Frosty Fingers in PA.
Has anyone else had this problem? It is the first time I have ever heard of that happening. Anyone with any insight or resources please let me know.
Thanks
Loosen up the electric panel and carefully pass your arm (small arm helps) over and up to the burned out bulb. Pretty much by feel remove it and replace with fresh bulb. Check operation before screwing back the elec. panel. You're done!
Remove the closet ? Are they crazy !? Just go slow and easy the first time. The next timer it will seem easier.
I took the van to some local body shops and no one seems interested in working on that plastic material. If they would consider it, they were talking about $1,500. So I took a tube of silicone calking and smeared it all over that crack and that seems to be holding for now.
I called Winnebago. They said because it was so old they did not stock that part any more. They referred me on to Mobility RV www.winnebagoparts.com/ I called them and they either have it or can get a hold of it but they wanted $3,200 or something like that plus shipping.
I have not looked at used ones, because I worry about getting another 15 year old top and having it crack again. I fear that I might have to just step up and buy that new one.
What are you doing about your van?
I will check up on Go Westy. I didn’t know they could get a Eurovan top. They are in California which will be way less shipping to Oregon. Thanks for the tip and extra cash savings.
1) Floor mats: can you still fold the rear bench seat with rear mat (rubber/carpet), or does it inhibit it rolling forward?
2) Auxiliary: which outlets/lights are run by the auxiliary battery? If I want to run something at the campsite (e.g. little radio) without running down the main battery, should I install an inverter? Suggestions/improvements?
3) how bad is the little cooler? Should I just use it for storage, or does it work at all?
4) Any good seat covers that are not as expensive as Wet Okole (and don't smell)?
The auxilliary battery powers everything in a camper behind the front seats. To double-check I suggest you disconnect the engine battery which is very easy to do and see what still has power.
I would never run anything off the engine battery when I am camping.
The cooler should run while you are traveling and for a couple more days after you stop.
I would try some good upholstery cleaner before buying slip covers.
Thanks!
This may sound stupid, but I cannot figure-out this. I am trying to remove the headrests / head restraints from the two front seats. The Owner's Manual, complete with illustration, says simply to push-in on the little tabs at the base of the steel rods, which support the head rests. Well, THERE ARE NO LITTLE TABS. Maybe there are tabs on the GL and MV, but not this one, a CL.
I fooled around with it for about half an hour yesterday, and, for the life of me, I could not figure-out how the Heck to remove them.
Any tips / ideas? Is there some little trick? A tool, perhaps? I am baffled. :confuse:
My 1995 eurovan camper quits working when the temp gauge gets to about 3/4 or so i pull over put in park turn engine off let cool down to 1/2 or so start up put back in drive and off i go no problems no grinding or anything any help any ideas this problem is driving me crazy as well as mechanics......thanks tom