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Yep, the Mrs. piles on the miles, so was thinking I might see $10 locally... this is one weird market, Lansing being such a hard-core GM town. The thing is, there's always a market for used Toyotas, and the cheapest Sienna I ever saw advertised anywhere was a '99 XLE with 120k miles... recently... for $12,500. Ouch.
These vans are EVERYWHERE, but 99% of them are not for sale... unlike Luminas, if you know what i mean.
So I'll sell now while people are getting ready to settle into the school routine, or drive it into the ground... neither option hurts...
Heck the 2001 ad was asking $17... and I didn't think it'd last long at that... had I known they'd go lower than $16, I mighta bought a THIRD one. Next time I'll shoot you an email.
The people who sold it are oriental (Chinese?), they also have a '98 Altima GXE with 62k and auto advertised... for $7,500. I'd bet money they just get their prices from a "book", so they wind up with one too cheap and one way too high... happens all the time.
Forgive my prejudices, but most of the orientals around here are connected with the University in some way, and are usually first-generation. So when it comes to cars, they don't have much personal experience to fall back on.
You should see what the German visitors at our lab come home with... unless they come talk to me first... I didn't know you could buy a '99 Dodge Stratus with rust... ugh...
There's a 1998 Forester in today's paper... red, normal equipment, tranny?.. 119k miles (aua!)... for $5,250 asking price... if it weren't 60 miles away, I'd take a look at it, wave $4,x00 in green around, and flip it to am MSU student when the snow starts coming. With a good service history, there's plenty of miles left on that Subie.
Thanks again, -Mathias
Had serious thoughts about selling the Explorer this morning, the doors leak water and its driving me crazy. But upon closer inspection it appears the weather seals on the front doors are bad.
Nothing frustrates me more than leaking doors, not only is it a pain, but can be potentially deadly for my daughter if mold starts to grow in the carpet. I had a Blazer a few years ago that leaked through the firewall or dash or windshield or something, anyway, it made her sick, we had to sell the truck.
Where can I find the dealer's black book wholesale trade-in value for my old Camrys, respectively, '86 and '89?
With over 200K miles...
What's a reasonable price to ask for each?
About my cars:
The '86 faults are radio doesn't work, and interior ceiling material shows cracks from heat.
Car runs well, but interior looks worn. The outside body is free of dents.
The '89's radio works, but not the A/C. Outside body is free of dents, and looks nice. Interior looks worn, and seat fabric is ripped.
I would like to trade-in both, and am wondering what will be the wholesale trade-in value for both?
By the way, I've seen trade-in values of $1400 for the '89, and, of $800 for the '86, I think those were the kelly blue book values.
I don't think the dealership will give us those figures, seems the cars will be auctioned off.
What prices (real world value) can I expect as trade-ins?
And you're quite right, the dealer does not want your cars. He doesn't want to take them to auction either, because who's gonna buy them? If they're exceptional, someone will take them to a buy-here-pay-here lot. But you've only told us a little about the condition of these jalopies, and we don't even know where you are.
Well, I know you're not in MI, 'cuz there are no '86 Camrys w/ 200k+ miles left here... they were so bad you could HEAR them rust. In New Mexico, it's a different story. Those old 'yotas are extremely stout.
Retail them yourself. Offer them at work, "as-is", for an "as-is" price, such as $900 for the '89 and $600 for the '86. If they're super-duper exceptional, add a little. This is precisely the kind of car you have to crawl around in and under, drive a few miles with the windows down and listen carefully, and then figure what you wanna pay for them. You can throw them in the paper, too; it's more of a hassle, but then you can reach for the stars, price-wise. There is TREMENDOUS demand for cheap, old Japanese cars that run well.
You can't really say either one of them owes you any money.
Good luck, and let us know,
-Mathias
"Beaters a Specialty"
Thanks
Greg
Terry or some of the others here will have more precise advice.
Overall, so far lovin it!
Thanks again for valuable info!
5avage (car@5avage.com)
Terry
Enjoy it ....!
Terry.
Oooh, that's scary ...
stay away from the car lot's ..
Terry :-)
Your idea of "perfect paint" may man "no big dents" - a dealer's idea of "perfect paint" means "not a scratch - at all".
Also, those tires you bought 30,000 miles ago that have "pretty good tread" in you opinion, may require replacement before retail sale. You know how picky some of those darned consumers can be!
If a car isn't literally perfect, a consumer will pick it to death and the dealer may get $2500-3000 less than the asking price - they have to shop wisely.
Finding what a vehicle is really worth, will headed more towards the Black book, and even then, that's based on what they are really doing at the auctions .. most info sources are anywhere between 30/90 days behind whats going on in the "Real deal market" .. a good example right now is, the Jeep Wranglers .. Super popular in the spring and summer in Yankee territory, get all the money (wholesale and retail) in Boston, Milwaukee, KC, in the summer months, get the last big buyers as College starts to fire up .. as soon as Sept starts to change up north, Bang, then they have the re-sale value of an Avocado .. keep in mind, vehicles can be very regional, what's high miles in Richmond may be just average miles in Sacramento, 4x4's in Boston are worth a lot more money than in Tampa, color is very reflective of value based on "where" it's at, no matter what the "book" says .. Pittsburg may not be a great place to be trading a convertible right now, but if you live in Charlotte or Atlanta, your good to go ..
It's hard enough for most dealers to know what most vehicles are worth unless they are at the auctions on a timely basis, and that doesn't mean sending the Used car Mgr from the local Honda store 3/4 times a year .. l.o.l..
I hope this helps ...
Terry.
Terry.
So the Mrs. is back to teaching, but the little one isn't in school yet, soooooo... Papa and Sophie head out to look at "beater prospects". First car, privat owner: 1997 SW1 5sp 85k in gold, one owner, well maintained... asking $3,500.
How did they arrive at that figure? 1/2way between "blue book" good and excellent condition. I did not know that Saturns were THAT depressed on the retail side, but good to know.
I drive the car, not too bad, none too clean, just a decent, taken-care-of Saturn. Has a MIL when it's been wet, the nice lady says (high marks for honesty) and the mechanics can't figure it out (low marks for mechanics -- these have misfire detection, I'll bet new dist. cap and wires will fix.) Also, the clutch is engaging very late and feels "soft", so some bucks there, in a year or so. Exhaust is rusty (no stainless in '97???), and what we have here is a great beater for work-and-back, and I'm thinking $2,500 is all the money... offer $2,000 and am rebuffed w/out counteroffer. No skin off my back, move on. Still and all, much more pleasant car than I thought it would be.
Today: Used-car-lot 1998 Subaru Outback 5sp 138k miles no-sale dark blue, good body, little rust on bolt-on hinges etc. but painted parts are fine. New cheapo tires. Runs fine, but has a faint knock in the engine, could be lifters, could be Jimmy Hoffa trying to get out, what do I know. Light soot in tailpipe -- ok.
I always have someone start the car cold and hang out at the exhaust pipe with a $ bill or a piece of kleenex -- if there's a stuck valve, you'll detect it EASY, this really works -- I know 'cuz I found some nasties this way.. all these tricks are no good until you've seen the good AND the bad, then you know.
But no problem here. Then: the oil is pitch black, and there's varnish at the bottom of the dip stick. Varnish? Never seen that before, at least not this bad. So right around this time I lose interest, and I'm not telling the salesman why, cuz where would we be if everybody knew to wipe the dipsticks clean...
Why am I going on this tirade? Well, I've got time to spend right now, but also....
A 1997 SW1 is not a bad little car and can be had, obviously, for very cheap $$$... 00 Luminas are going begging at <$7... these aren't great cars, but really not bad..
And the asking price for this beater Subaru, which I MIGHT spend $3k on and hope for the best... was $6,900.
From where I sit, the used-car market hasn't so much taken a dip but has forked... your "Toyondabarus" are continuing to be nearly as strong as they have been for years, and the domestics are getting hit a little more every month. This does not bode well for GM, and here in MI, the car industry still feeds a lot of mouths. I'm a little worried about this.
Whenever I have a thought, I share it with my friends... so there.
Have a nice day
-Mathias
While you were cruising through Alaska, we had a discussion about diminished value on this vehicle about a hundred or so posts ago. BUT, my friend who owns this truck has decided it has to go after the accident, and is looking for a number to look at for trade in or private sale. To save you from looking back through all the posts, here's the description:
2000 Dodge Durango SLT+ silver over charcoal leather, 8 passenger, Infinity Gold CD stereo, keyless entry, all the goodies and toys.
2WD, 4.7 V8
58,000 miles (I know, we've already been there)
and now for the catch... $6000 in accident damage, including new right front fender, hood, bumper cover, right headlight assembly and repaint on all.
Plus, new right front wheel, suspension, shock, brake, and everything else that is attached or works with the front wheel.
In Savannah, GA. Can you please give me rough numbers for trade and private sale? Thanks for the help!
I’d been going back and forth for months on what sedan to replace my ’00 4Runner with. Was considering an Accord, Mazda6, Acura TSX or TL, or maybe a nice slightly used Maxima. To tell you the truth, I had been sort of putting off the final decision because the search is so much fun. It’s not too often I get the OK from the wife to actually make a purchase. Hitting the car lots every chance I get, spending countless hours researching on-line. It all ends when you make the purchase, right? At least for a while.
So I had some time to kill between work and volleyball a couple of weeks ago, and thought I’d check out the Acura lot. As I walked on the lot, I saw a TSX in my first choice color (I had only seen one other). Approaching it, noticed it had a used sticker on it and then the clincher – peeked inside and it had the 6 speed.
Went inside to ask about it – turned out someone bought it a month earlier, put 700 miles on it, then was forced to sell it back to the dealership to deal with some family problems. I told them I’d take it that night for $25,000, figuring the fact that it was used at all should count for a couple grand off sticker. The manager wanted close to sticker on a new one for it, stating how rare the 6speed is, and how there’s still high demand for the car (which is mostly true from what I can tell). No deal. So I walked. They called a couple of days later to see if I was still interested.
Bottom line, I bought it for $26,000 (about a grand off a new one) and got $17,500 for my ’00 4Runner (in Denver, SR5, auto, CD, leather, no sunroof, medium blue, 4x4, 48,000 miles, real good condition). Thought the trade was pretty fair, not outstanding, but fair. As for the TSX, I wasn’t sure how to evaluate the price. It is technically used, but barely. At the end of the day, I was happy to get the car exactly how I wanted for a thousand less than I would pay new, and with a longer warranty to boot (gotta love those certified used cars with only 700 miles on them!).
I’m happy with the car and the deal, but just curious - How do guys approach the pricing on a used car such as this?
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
That said, the market for standrard transmission vehicles is always more limited than that for automatics & quite possibily there were no takers on the "short list". Your 4Runner should generate nice traffic on the Acura store's used lot in Denver, and maybe lead to a few MDX sales, so I think both you and the dealer will be happy...
Just checking in, it looks like I posted jsut before you left. It was suggested to me on an Audiworld Forum to ask you about pricing for my TT. I am in Nashua, NH, 03060. I have a 2000 TT Quattro, Silver with Black Leather interior. It has the Audio Package, The Comfort Package, and The Performance Package. 41k miles on it. The wheels have the scratches from the previous owner, but other than that it's in good shape. I am the second owner. I have it listed in a few places for $19500 figuring people can negotiate me down to $18500 (my bottom line). I have been getting some offers that I think are real low $14500, $16900, and so on. Am I shooting too high? What is realistic in this market for a selling prices and trade in values on this car?
Thanks
Just wondering what a good purchase price would be from a dealer (non-Saab) in Atlanta:
2000 Saab 9-3 Base, Midnight Blue w/ tan leather
Fully loaded: auto, sunroof, heated seats, upgraded 6-speaker stereo w/ CD, power everything
Just off lease from Fla., 42K, very very clean.
And the trade-in value and private party price:
1999 Ford Contour SE Sport V6
Dark blue exterior, blue cloth interior
Auto, power driver's seat, CD, keyless entry
45K miles, good condition
Thanks in advance for your help!!!
What would a loaded AWD be looking at the auction right now? Thanks.
Right now, the loaded up ones are doing in and around $31/$32 with 3/4k .. the MSO's are doing "around" $32/$33 with 100/300 miles .. for what it may be worth, cuz' they are wonderful vehicles to drive, the New Crossfires are doing in and around the $36/$38 figure with 200/300 miles ...
Terry.
We see them all the time .. but, but, but, the Dealer in NY said xxxx, the dealer in Buffalo said it's worth the same as xxxx, the dealer in NJ said it's worth xxxx ... Yeah, well take it back up north and get that xxxx, because in the land of the Gators, Seminoles and the Hurricanes it's worth about -0- .. the same as in most area's in the country, especially with miles, that's because we don't know if it has 200k, 150k or even 300k .. it's TMU babe ..
It's amazing, but every once in awhile (not often) Riverside does come up with a real, non fabricated idea .. in this case, he's right, clean it up, great Ad in the paper, ask $2,900 and see what plays out .. the first dude with Cash in hand, cut that baby lose for whatever you can get, put the ego aside, if they got $1,500 ~ say bye bye now ...
Sincerely, good luck .!
Terry.
I could really use some help on figuring out what a good price on a 2000 or 2001 Volvo XC70 (see post 13946).
Also would like to get your (Terry) thoughts on a 2000-2003 Audi A6 quattro Wagons.
THANKS!
The second is silver http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1- &category=31850&item=2429353339 with 184mi being sold as New. I imagine its hard to move this car b/c of the 2003 LS6.
I just happened to notice that the local Chrysler dealer has had a Crossfire sitting on his lot for several weeks now. Maybe its a tester, dunno. But this is also the same guy that had several PTs sitting around when they were really hot. I might have to stop in one day just to see what the deal is. Maybe he's been taking tips from the Ford dealer next door who puts market adjustment stickers on all his SVT stuff.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You want how much for the oil change??
But sir, its MB parts.
You want how much for the compressor for the AC?
But sir, its MB parts.
You want how much for the brake pads?
But sir, its MB parts.
Oh yeah, its going to be fun in the service department.
On the flip side, can you imagine MB SLK owners bringing their car to the Chrysler dealership for a deal in oil change and parts?
Figure more into the ultra high $24ish, low $25ish range would be fair for both, my only question is, the wheels on the 1st one, those are aftermarket (that doesn't make it bad) but what type and quality are they ? .. the silver one is a MSO vehicle (new and untitled .??) .. the question here is, why ?? .. an 02, a LSE, -0- miles, the right color all the options just sitting ..?? .. probably had a $41,0 sticker.
I dunno, I would have to have this one looked at Real close - hail, flood, storm damage, re painted cuz' of vandals ..?? .. I didn't see a "Buy Now" figure, I'm not knocking the dealer or the vehicles, I just bought 3 02's yesterday - only questions .. or, maybe I'm still half asleep and I didn't read the eBay card close enough ...
Let me know on this one ...
Terry.
If you remember, had a PT Cruiser that I got through a divorce. I traded it on a new RX8. 3 weeks go by. Mazda comes out and says they screwed up and "restate" the horsepower by 9 ponies lower (actually, most say they misstated it by about 30HP) and offers me two options:
1) Give me $500 and free maintenance during the warranty period.
2) Buy back my RX8 including all fees for financing, etc.
Couple of questions:
1) Is it possible to predict whether the RX8 will take a hit in the resale market in the next 4-5 years?
2) If I take the buyout option, what do they do with my trade (PT)? If they still have it, do they give it back? If they don't have it, I have to buy another car.
I'm looking at both options and on the fence. If I go the buyback route, I'll probably look at buying an '04 350Z 6 speed (in the hopes that the first year "buggaboos" are worked out). Are these cars still commanding premiums over MSRP? Discounts possible? How much to reasonably ask for off MSRP if that's possible?
If I keep the RX8, will I be shooting myself as the "buybacks" flood the used car market and end up with a "white elephant" because of this faux pax?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
If they buy back the RX-8, you're looking at getting something else, with only the balance of the money you had at first - difference in the trade value of the PT and the price of the RX-8. You'd probably buy another one, right? Why hassle with it?
I think the RX-8 will do very well in resale value because of its high-line market approach. I don't think you'll see a debacle like with the Z06 Corvettes where the new ones came out over 400 hp and shot the value of the previous year's model.
If they're going to cover all the maintenance (like most fols REALLY follow the 15K and 30K to the letter..), that's about $1500-2000 in service and guarantees you no worries.
It sounds like a good deal for what is a clerical error and stupid marketing guys.
I really don't think you'll have a flooded market fron buybacks, since I'm not seeing any calls for "off with their heads"....
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I also agree, trying to guage resale is impossible.
It seems to me that you have two very nice options -
take the $500 and service deal, which seems very fair if you like the car.
take an easy out of the Mazda if there's another car and deal you'd rather have.
I think Mazda really stepped to the plate with their offers because it is strong.
If it was just a HP issue, I'd keep the car and take the money/maintenance. Although, I still think there is some inherent problems with emmission controls as I have some nasty looking "soot" that gets all over the back of the car from the exhaust whenever I drive it. Plus, "check engine light" is persistently coming on, even after I take it in for service. As it is, I'm still on the fence. Mazda service can't pinpoint the MPG issue (I'm supposed to be getting high teens/low 20s). They say the A/C is running "as designed".
Unfortunately, when I test drove the car, I wanted to see how the sunroof "buffetted" when open, so I didn't have the A/C on. Test drives really don't tell you anything about MPG either.
Zues....yes, I traded the PT to the same Mazda dealer I bought the RX8 from. Actually, there isn't much "off with their heads" here, but apparantly, this has caused quite an uproar with the Rotary engine community overall....quite a fanatical group.
river....my 2nd choice was the 350Z/G35C...very nice cars in their own right, but still my 2nd choice.
brozen....are you a Mazda dealer?
Maybe the 350Z ain't such a bad idea at all...
The other problems you are having present another side to this, though. zues is right on, the check engine light is probably related to the fuel economy, as is the soot. Sounds to me its running rich, pure and simple. I would tell them that if they can't fix it, then you will take the buyback offer. No reason to have a car that will be in the shop all the time.
i think we drifted enough, though. Did you post any of this on the RX8 thread? probably the place to take it (although this was a good place to get professional opinions like zues and terry).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I've not taken this to the RX8 thread because emotions can run pretty hot over there and getting ojective opinions is a pretty tough order. No sense in adding gasoline to the fire.
Plus, I've been to every rotary bulletin board I can find and there isn't much in the way of subjective information there, either
I agree....it's no doubt running rich, bit in my estimation, there isn't a lot one can do about that given the state of the precise fuel measurement and computer controlled delivery of fuel in today's cars. They've already replaced the EVAP unit to curb the "check engine light" issue.
Anyway, am rethinking everything.
Zues....any resolution regarding your PT?
That said, I'm sure not all the initial EX8 owners are having the same difficulties I'm having.
Those Rotary engines have always been a little quirky, do have a tendency to puff around and the fuel economy has never really been their "blue light special" and if not driven properly did see some service depts .. but even so, IF you can find a clean 90/93/95 you will pay All the money, 100k 95's still see $10 grand at the auctions .. again, can't say how reflective that will be on the new model ..
This get's back to what I always say ..
Always buy and drive what YOU like ..!
Terry.
b) 2000 white in Sac. CA (winter Volvo) 57K certified 6 years 100K.
Any thoughts on pricing both cars have leather, heated seats..... cold weather pkg....
thanks
The 01 sounds kinda nice, low in miles, right color anywhere and all the junk including Nav .. it's worth in and around $25ish on the dealer side, maybe $26 if it's "jam-up puuurffect" and it needs -0- .. down the road of Retail, it's worth $29ish, the books show it's worth much more, but the real deal figure is under $30 ...
In the possible new home of Arnold, the 00 might be seeing the $16's trade side, might could, maybe be seeing the $17's on a great and wonderful day .. down the road to Retailville, under $20 is all the money, the warranty saves this one .. the one bad thing about Volvo's is, they start to break down at around 200k, then you have to get up early on a Saturday and find another one, and that can be a pain cuz' you end up missing all the good cartoons ..
Audi wagons are getting super popular, nice vehicles, but can be expensive down the road .. the 02, A6's Allroads, miles in the teens are doing in and around the $28ish figure right now, retail prices should be seeing the $33/$34 range ...
I hope this helps ...
Terry.
[edited: had trouble with posting the URL, so go to netscape.com and click away]
These are the likely prices the cars should go for; I've only used the ones that struck me as interesting:
->Honda Civic EX, 1996, $6,000, or 2001, $9,500
$9,500??? Where? I'll take six and sell them in a week!
->Mazda Protégé ES, 1999, $6,000
This would be a good deal, dunno if realistic
-> Subaru Forrester L, 1998, $8,000
I haven't seen ANY Foresters with normal miles significantly below $10k.
-> Toyota RAV4, with AWD, 1998, $10,000
This may be okay, but I wouldn't pay 1/2 of new for a 6-year-old car.
->Buick Regal, 2000, $9,000
IF they're that cheap, that's a great traveling car. In the dark, anyway. The interior is blind-pig ugly.
-> Ford Escort, 1999, $4,000
Heck of a deal if realistic. Downside: Driving an Escort.
->Toyota 4Runner SR5, 1998, $13,500
Never seen them that "low".
High marks for including the Protege and the Escorts, but a lot of the Toyotas and Hondas are just too pricey for their age. As usual, the one fire-sale item -- Prizm -- got missed. This ties right in with my general opinion of journalists...
-Mathias
East Lansing, MI
Rav4..maybe with ton of miles
Buick Century maybe..not Regal
Escort..probably..but I'd pass
4runner.. I've seen a Canadian model that cheap, but thats it..
The rest of those prices are from fantasy land.
Thanks for the continued postings on interesting beaters.... Love your musings....
regards,
kyfdx
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