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Ford Aerostar
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I have a previously owned 1989 Aerostar that someone had rear ended. I want to replace the rear bumper but I'm running into a problem removing the old bumper. There are four bolts (two on each side) at the rear which were no problem. Obviously there are a couple of other bolts inside the rear frame that I can't find a way to access. Has anyone ever replaced a rear bumper on their Aerostar? If so, any ideas or suggestions? Anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Steve
I have a '92 Aerostar which now has 220K miles on it and have only replaced minor things on it, except this weekend, had to put a new air compressor on it (which will have a year warranty and I plan to get full use of it!). This is my second Aerostar and I bought it used. I did change my oil to synthetic last year which it seemed to like! The only problem I am having is finding affordable plastic bumper covers, which in Florida break down in the sun after so long.
Good luck with yours!
Thanks
Help, my wife won't drive anything but an aerostar.
Rob
it seems to be getting to much fine gas, not back firing as much at high speeds - what could it be?. although at high speeds of 45- theres a lot of jerking forward could it be a failing volve? not opening- ppl- at the advanced auto part thought that might be the problem.
When driving for long periods of time like all day long like doing deliveries it seems to stop back firing.
Some symptoms...
When Driving at 45-55 MPH Van jerk forward every few seconds, slower speeds it tried to back fire when I give it gas.
I never changed the Spark plugs since I brought the van last year in June 08, Will that help stop the Back firing and gas smell.
:surprise:
what hashappened to your -i'm guessing-colum shift??-93 and up model? is that someone has tried to steal your van by jerking -REAL HARD,hoping to snap the lock pin,but ford designed the shifter so if anyone tried to do that-=it would break some internal parts,but not unlock the transmission..the good part is they didn't get your van(aparently the doge minivans do that-but not our fords ! )
the bad part is to fix it CORECTLY!,the best thing is to replace the entire steering colum,as i've tried twice to just replace the broken shifter shaft,and twice it broke again..aparently,they torqed my steering colum so hard,they bent where the shaft sits,and keeps breahing the new/used one i tried to replace it with!!
---untill you get the money together to fix it right--feel at the bottom of the steering colum,above the break pedal-for a CABLE..it's a square end,with a clip that-if you can pry the clip loose,then pop the cable end off the ball lever-then-i "fished" the cable end out under the steering colum-where there's a soft rubber seal that you can push the end of the cable out!!..to shift it with just the cable can be tricky,but-once you get it in gear,you don't need to move it..park is all the way in,and you have to "count" the clicks past revererse and neutral to hit drive..or,just one click out to back up..what i do is find "neutral",and pull it out one click-then,it's in overdrive..
--i've been driving mine that way for a few years now,and no troubles!!in fact-if anyone were gonna try to steal it,they still can't steer it-cause i've not seen one yet where they broke the steering pin!,but how many would know to look for a cablke to shift it?"?
hope this helps!
windtalkerr@yahoo.com
autozone.com has a ON LINE SERVICE MANUAL!!SEE IF IT COVERS YOUR ENGINE!!
--I HAD A THREE LITER,AND IT WAS A ROYAL PAIN TO CHANGE THE PLUGS,AND YOU CAN'T JUST THROW A SET OF WIRES ON IT,YOU'VE got TO PUT THEM IN THE CLIPS FORD PUT ON THEM,OR YOUR GONNA BE DOING IT AGAIN,AND REALLY SOON!,SO-TAKE YOUR TIME-DO IT RIGHT- AND IT WILL STAY FIXED FOR QUITE A WHILE!..MINE STILL RAN GOOD TWO YEARS LATER !
sorry about the caps lock!
but backfireing usually means either crossed wires-in the wrong place on the cap,or it's jumping acrost old crappy wires..,but i'd bet ya it's crossed wires..
--the BEST" secret is to take off the passenger side tire,and acess the plugs and wires through the opening between the fenderwell and the frame!!it's impossible from under the hood..a swivel headed ratchet is real handy for those plugs..
Just seems to get worse!, I use gas cleaners and tune up in the bottle hope I am not making it worse, btw I stopped using and Gas treament and Tune up in the bottle, no change...Gas treament and Tune up is not cutting it any more!
Just started 2 month and sometimes the tune up in the bottle causes it to drive a little better when its
warmed up but after I turn it off for 30 minutes to an hour doing my shopping and turn it on
and start driving it has no horse power when I give it gas, and at 50 miles better it puffs and back fires
and jerks a bit stops then jerks like its skipping a spark ts very rare to stop at 50 or better it only stopped once and drove like normal, I have no stalling sounds what would makes it jerk at 50 miles mph at times and back fire the muffler shacks, I can't guess if its the Gas filter sparks plus or that volve that opens at 45 to 50 mph is staying closed or having trouble staying open. Can that volve I forgot the name of the volve the car shop worker told me about. Can that volve flap back and forth causing the back firing. it only went back to normal once until I started it the next day, then it was back at it doing the same thing, the Tune up in the bottle kinda
helped a bit, but now it just stays the same. I wonder if a tune up will fix the problem.I haven't seem any similar post to my issue here or elsewhere, maybe its a new problem, who knows how many people owned my car before me. What they replaced.
The engine which is the 3.0 is MUCH better than my other 2 vehicles. A 1971 Cutlass with a 350 engine and a 2005 Chevy with a 3.4 engine.
The 3.0 does not burn ANY oil and it does not drop it on the ground either! I have not done anything to the engine but oil changes since I have owned it. I was encouraged to read on this site that an engineer said this engine is designed for 500,000 miles! I believe it. On another website there is a guy from Canada that says he has 355,000 miles with the original engine and transmission. I'm sure he must be VERY faithful with his maintenance.
As we all know Aerostars like to rust. I FOUND a place www.raybuck.com that sells replacement panels at reasonable prices! I ordered the panel that is on the drivers side between the wheels. I am going to do some of the work and what I cannot handle I will bring it to a body shop. If things work out I may get a few more items from this company and then get the vehicle done by www.krown.com {rust proofing} if I cannot get their product sent here unless I find something better around here.
A dependable vehicle that has great heat and as far as I know the original air conditioning compressor that throws lots of cold air and it runs and looks good and gets decent gas mileage. It can haul lots of stuff and is cheap to insure. What else do you want? Take care of your Aerostar and it will serve you well and not bring "down the neighborhood".
I had assumed it was my bad luck and I had to repair it at my expense. I asked the dealer for goodwill assistance. The service manager had a technician put it on the lift to check it out. He determined the clutch was not spinning freely with the a/c off. And since I attempted a repair to replace the compressor, Acura was not interested in assisting me. The repair at the dealer would be @ $4000 plus the cost of flushing the a/c system which the dealer is not equipped to perform. Parts alone would cost @ $2000. Long story short I could not get the pulley off the used compressor. I swapped my clutch/pulley assembly with the used compressor. I had it pressure tested which it failed. I asked the dealer Open Road Acura formerly Wayne Acura for assistance. The service manager Michael Vandenberghe and the DPSM for Acura Parts & Service from Acura Division of American Honda Motor Co., Inc Dustin Townsend who was on-site that day refused me any goodwill assistance. This is only my 2nd new car. The 1st was an Acura Integra, 1991 which has some 227K miles. I replaced only maintenance and wear items only such as brakes, exhaust, tires. And no not even the clutch; it is original. Prior to the TSX I would be a repeat buyer. But after the A/C compressor grenading and the lack of customer service I experienced I will definitely re-think my next car purchase. The grenading is a term I encountered on Acurazine which other fellow TSXer's have experienced. As I opened the compressor it was a mess of ground aluminum pieces. How can I determine if this is simply a defective clutch or a victim of "Black Death" a term which I encountered here at Edmund's? Are the other manufactured a/c parts from a place such as Discount A/C Parts equal to or better than the Kehien OEM parts from Honda?
Is there any was that I have recourse with Honda? I asked if this was a recall item. The answer from both was there is not enough incident to warrant a recall.