Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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for the CEL, if there was a repair made, NP. if it was one of those undiagnosable (a typical dealer service "could not reproduce event"), and turned it self off, then to me it is a non issue. THe light is off, so there is not a problem!
but yeah, clearing a valid code, knowing it will trip next time you hit 60, around the corner from the dealer is not cool. Actually, it is probably legally considered fraud.
same with having a bad tranny, but where it has to be warmed up to start slipping, so purposely bringing the car in ice cold.
normal stuff, the dealer should be able to find. they are free to evaluate the car to their heart's content, up to them if they want to bother.
I have not traded that many cars in, but only once I remember having to fill out a detailed questionaire before they would give me a quote. stuff about prior problems, accidnets, etc. Although for much of it, they would have had a hell of a time proving anything if I had fudged (not that I had to, the car had 14K on the clock!)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
08 M3 sedan
6spd
white/black
12,700 mi.
all options except extended leather and DCT tranny
New Orleans area
Sticker was $68550
great condition except for one small scratch on trunk. clear bra on front.
Trade and realistic PP values please.
Gbrozen can give you more accurate values.
I found a GT-R I want to buy from a private party so I would like a dealer to buy it outright and maybe do an in-out for us on the GT-R so I could save a couple K on sales tax.
Also just curious-- is the car fully paid off? And any reason why you want to trade such a new car with only 12k miles?? Or has the GT-R bug bitten you??
We own a 2008 Tahoe and a 2008 Frontier CC also that are paid for and just want to switch up the fun.
I hadn't lowered the window since I don't know when; I had it down so could hear a local sports show while I filled up the gas tank. Oh well...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
The Ody got many incremental improvements to the trans.
We debate this a lot in the Sienna vs. Ody thread, and pretty much reached the (rare) consensus that 2004+ models are fine. A peek at Consumer Reports problem reports confirms that there was a pretty sudden drop in the problem rate between 2003 and 2004 model years.
00, 01, 02, 03 trans - all black dots, "Much Worse than Average"
04 trans - "Better than Average" - half red
05+ - "Much Better than Average" - all red
And remember they compare to other models of a similar age.
Given the 2011s are coming out, that means those 2004 models have been out on the roads for a full 7 years, and if the failure rate was high a lot of them would already have gone bad by now.
I don't think they should be treated differently. I'm sure no one here would like to buy a car from a dealership and the CEL pop on days after buying it. By not disclosing any problem or potential problem to a dealership, you are potentially transferring your problems as the seller to that of the buyer who goes into a dealership.
You would think any dealership would be smart enough to ask the appropriate questions and inspect the vehicle that is being traded in. i.e "Is there anything wrong with the car?" But, one shouldn't take advantage of anothers mistake.
Basically if it is something that you would want disclosed to you as a buyer, you should disclose. Withholding important information (CEL) is the same as lying IMO.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
But, as I always caution, my numbers are my region. New Orleans could be a different ballgame.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I disclose nothing, personally. That is, not until asked. I'm always honest with my answers. Anything else is on them. This is when trading a car, by the way. Selling privately is a different story.
Hell, its not like they disclose things to me about their cars unless I ask. When is the last time a salesman said "Oh, yer looking at this car. Be warned it has been repaired, although not showing up on carfax. It needs new brakes, and a scan of the computer showed 5 stored codes."
Yeah... ain't happenin.
And, I'll have you know, the CEL on my GTI did in fact pop on just 2 days after buying it. I didn't even call them, though. It is a used car. I don't expect them to anticipate what might happen, and I certainly can't say with any certainty that they knew it would happen.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
As far as the CEL, I thought I dealt with that:
Turning the CEL off with a scanner... it depends. If the CEL hasn't come back a year later, no disclosure... if I cleared it on the way to the dealership, that's wrong. Pick a point inbetween.
Cheers -Mathias
I seriously doubt you'd get anything close to a fair price on your trade-in with that kind of answer. Sounds so evasive the dealer probably won't even look at your car.
And me, I would not put it quite that way. More like a simple "not that I know of" should suffice.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I thought I dealt with that. ;-)
You would think any dealership would be smart enough to ask the appropriate questions and inspect the vehicle that is being traded in. i.e "Is there anything wrong with the car?" But, one shouldn't take advantage of anothers mistake
Again, anything other than full disclosure is cheating someone out of money and possible endangering their health.. If you know there is something wrong with the car, it would be unethical not to tell them. If you (steine 13) were buying a used car from a dealership would you want them to tell you about a faulty CEL? Or would it be okay for them to say nothing and let you find out when the car breaks down on the interstate at night with the entire family on board?.
I got the same answer from the seller of the Nissan Altima I bought. It ran great and I didn't have any problems with it, but found out about a month after I bought it that it had been in a wreck. I missed caulking lining the inside rear trunk. and some over spray. I should have listened to that little voice inside me that thought he probably knew more than he was letting on. :sick:
it has been a while since I bought anything used for more than chump change, but I am still a big proponent of a professional inspection, as long as you are comfortable with the guy doing the job.
Or, just invite Qbrozen over for lunch, and make a "quick stop" on the way!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Funny you should mention a professional inspection. I hired "The Car Doctor" to come to the sellers home and inspect a Mazda 929 that my wife wanted to buy... it had bun warmers. He goes thru all the tests, then the last test on his long list is a engine compression test, which is the main reason I hired him. I didn't totally understand why he couldn't do this test, something about cutting a wire or disassembling something... but the seller wouldn't let him do it. I'm not buying this 7 year old car without a compression test. So the deal was called off.
I was always kind of glad the deal didn't go thru.The seller sold cars out of his house, 2 or 3 a month he said, just to make a little extra money. He was less than forthcoming with some of my questions. One was on a rear power window that didn't work on initial inspection. He said he'd take care of it. The next day we come to look at it again and it is working. I asked him how he fixed it, he joked about having the magic touch. I'm like, well put some of it in a bottle so when the thing stops working again I won't be out a bunch of money to have it fixed.
I'm trying to have a constructive discussion here, and I'm not sure this is helpful.
"Full Disclosure" is so broad as to be meaningless.
- On dirt roads, the rt sliding door sometimes rattles...
- The CEL came on in August of '05 while vacationing in Arizona, evap code...
- There's a faint scratch on the rt rr quarterpanel you can only see if the sun hits it just so...
- On one tank, I only got 14 mpg. Dunno why...
These are all required under "full disclosure" but to me are ridiculous.
The line has to be drawn somehwere, and where that is is the subject of this discussion.
Some argue "as is -- where is" is fine, others would say that a tranny that slips when hot should be disclosed to all, others that it should be disclosed to private individuals but not to dealers.
Personally, I'm leaning towards "all" in this case, as the defect is known and serious.
What about this as a guideline:
The dealer is buying a car for wholesale value, therefore auction rules should apply. Which means the only things that are to be disclosed are frame work, title issues, and known major defects.
Auction "green light" rules should apply.
The car is assumed to be driveable & safe; nothing else can be assumed, such as maintenance etc.
Under "green light," the slipping transmission has to be disclosed, btw.
That covers the trade-in situation; private party is -- to me, anyway -- slightly different.
Cheers -Mathias
No, they are not required under full disclosure. Under my definition of "full disclosure", if it is something that the average person would want or need to know about to make an informed car buying decision, then it should be disclosed. The rule applies to whether it is a private party sale, or a dealership deal.
What about this as a guideline:
The dealer is buying a car for wholesale value, therefore auction rules should apply. Which means the only things that are to be disclosed are frame work, title issues, and known major defects
Auctions are generally set up to accomodate dealerships and people in the biz. So, that type of guideline (auction rules) should not apply to a transaction involving a private party or private party and dealership.
Anything major or moderate should be disclosed. Minor issues, like the faint scratch on rear quarter panel that can only be seen with the setting sun.. is on the the buyer . I don't think it realistic to go over every small flaw, as the buyer does have responsibility as well in checking the car for problems.
Then why would it blast the 2000-2003 Odyssey transmission with big black dots?
Also they dropped their recommendation from many Toyota models and even called a Lexus SUV "Not Acceptable".
AFAIK to the average vehicle of the same age.
So 2003 Ody trans broke MUCH more often than other 2003 vehicles, while the 2004 Ody trans broke less often than other 2004 vehicles. 2005+ MUCH less often.
That was a sarcastic comment to all those who bash CR and claim it is biased. Personally ,I think CR is the best out there.Period. Boy, you can literally predict the problems you will have with your car with the used car reliability data and it has been spot on for all the cars I have owned.. :shades:
I never buy a car without checking CR data. But dropping Toyota recommendations was stupid IMO as all these SUA`s were just baloney and nothing has been proven except for driver error.
Also for the Lexus GX -- I have the 05 GX and this new one is redesigned-- It got that do not buy tag for extreme situations. Infact a lot of other auto mags said that no one would drive an SUV in that way ..It`s not a sports car,LOL!!. Just goes to show that CR testing was rigorous and no one gets an easy pass. That`s why CR has been so accurate. :P
They've been spot-on with cars I've owned. I remember they rated the Mazda 626 transmissions really poorly around 93-95 or so, then sure enough, in the boards one or two people per week would complain about their failed CD4E auto trans (actually a Ford unit).
Same with Subaru head gaskets - they accurately show the years that had that afflication. And that new ones don't.
These are imports, obviously, so no bias involved in such criticisms.
They later retracted the Do Not Buy for the Lexus GX, but in that same article they admit they tried to simulate lift throttle oversteer, which is driver error (though stability control ought to correct it).
So basically they do everything they can to get vehicles to fail. I guess the controversy that can create sells magazines.
What should I expect, approx. Here's the info on my car.
locale: Harrisburg, PA
2005.5 Passat GLX wagon
2.8l, 6 cyl., auto, awd
56k mi
grey ext. grey leather int.
fully loaded, sunroof, 6 disc cd changer, power/heated seats...its got everything
new tires, new brakes, new belt
couple dings from a hail storm
full maint records, no accidents
As I said, I've never done a trade-in before so I have no idea what to expect. Thanks in advance for the help.
Later I bought a used Range Rover from a private seller. It turned out it had a 2 inch weird body repair on the rear, a leaking rear window, & a spare wheel that needed repair. (To be honest, with Range Rovers, all that may be the least of your problems). I should have spotted it all, but the seller was so sharp, I know he knew all that, & he'll always look like a minor sh*t in my eyes.
I go back & forth. My current 10 y.o. bmw has suddenly "weak" A/C. So I'm thinking of selling it in Winter. And turning into Sgt. Shultz.....
Gbrozen can give you a more accurate data.
Year/Make/Model: 2010 Kelley Blue Book, the company
Body Style: web site
Engine: search engine, maybe
Driveline: whatever you want to price
Mileage: very high, but runs well
Color: Blue
Major Options: plenty of staff, a big web site
Condition: good condition, but it's up for sale so not immaculate
LOL!
What's the Kelley Blue Book price on ... Kelley Blue Book?!
Supposedly, AutoTrader is expected to bid for it.
Unless we put a pool together.
25 NX 450h+ / 24 Sienna Plat AWD / 23 Civic Type-R / 21 Boxster GTS 4.0 / 03 Montero Ltd
But, why a compression test? Unless the car had a lot of miles on it or if were running roughly a compression test on a modern car is a waste of time.
That seller was a "curbstoner" and 929 Mazdas weren't very good cars.
"" KBB is not responsible for any errors in computing trade in values and hence cannot be legally held liable for any errors or omissions. We appreciate your business.Thank you """ :P
Well, I believe the car had a little over 100,000 miles on it. I can't recall the engine, but it looked a bit sophisticated (i.e expensive to replace) It drove fine, but with that many miles it made me a bit nervous.
I didn't blame the seller on not allowing the compression test, I'm glad he didn't. I didn't have a very good feeling about the car or the seller. I think we ended up with a Plymouth Acclaim, which did pretty well in the 4 years we had it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I hope whoever does improves the accuracy!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Some help is better than no help-Don`t you think so ?? :sick: