Yes, I have a year-long subscription to the Galves site.
The dealer was dead on .... if you had no options and had the allowed average of 66k miles. That is $8700-$9650.
BUT... need to add: $750 for leather and dual power seats $600 for moonroof $400 for your nice low miles
Total is $10,450-$11,400.
I've had this happen many many times at a dealership. I've had mixed reactions when showing them the error of their calculations. More often than not, they are not happy to have me point this out ... which leads me to believe they did it on purpose.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
That is tough. And this is where you really need a professional opinion, which I am afraid I can't provide.
If not for the damage, you could probably get $6k-$6500 private party. So I guess start deducting. But then there is that diminished value part of the equation. Or hassle factor. I mean, you knock off $1500 only and its not worth it to someone to buy a damaged one and fix it, only having spent the same as if they bought an undamaged one.
At the same time, however, maybe, just maybe, you find someone who will drive it as is and be happy to have saved some bucks over a pristine example. You just never know.
Mostly, it comes down to how fast you want to sell it. Do you ask $6k and wait for the right sucker... i mean buyer? Or do you ask $5k and take the first $4k cash that comes along?
My guess is, as a trade, a dealer might only offer $2k.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Those residuals sound way too high for a car that depreciates like a BMW.
Well... that's the whole point.. When the bank is offering an unrealistic residual, that's when you jump on the lease deal.. What do you care if they lose money when you turn it in?
The 2 year lease expiring on my 2009 Subaru Legacy SE next month has a residual of something around 79%. They called me 6 months out trying to get me to buy it out at what came out to a 60% residual. I have a sneaking suspicion Subaru is going to be choking on these cars.
2025 Jetta GLI Autobahn, 2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4xE
Can someone explain this too me in a "Leasing For Dummies" way? I have no idea about how leasing works & how do they arrive at the buyout figure at the end of the lease? Never understood it so never did it.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I can see why the lease would be a decent deal on the BMW. Interesting.
I was considering used, but I may have to reconsider. I have a small business and my accountant says its better to lease than finance for tax purposes.
My wife's a CPA but she's never leased a car through her business. Will have to find out why but we tend to keep our rides till about 80k, so that'll probably be her reasoning on not leasing. But she could actually have a nice daily driver through leasing. Or maybe she should let me lease my next ride and charge it to the business. After I officially retire from Uncle Sam at the end of 2010, she wants me to take an H & R tax class & come to work for her. This way, I could actually lease my C class and charge it as a business expense legally. Hmmm...!
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Business leasing really pays off with higher priced cars.... I don't have the exact numbers, but if you buy a car, depreciation is capped at a certain amount by the IRS... So, you might not be able to depreciate a $60K car any more than a $30K car.. There aren't any such restrictions on expensing car lease payments, however (at least, not at those levels)..
So... if you drive a $20K car, the difference in buying or leasing, as far as a business tax deduction is probably not enough to worry about.. Certainly not enough to make up for the added expense of buying a car, every three years, when you might keep it for five. But, if you are getting a Mercedes E-Class, the difference in the tax consequences could be huge.
For personal leasing, you just have to pick the leases that the manufacturers are promoting heavily, for whatever reason... I drove my 2008 Subaru Impreza for $5612 for two years and 30K miles... Those numbers are hard to beat on a new car purchase..
I just did the math on mine and paid $5400 to drive it two years and up to 20k miles. I'll end up having driven it about 16k miles when all is said and done.
That said it was probably the most vanilla car I have ever driven, but it kept me out of a bind when Pittsburgh got the 2.5 feet of snow in 2 weeks and it was extremely reliable (save a power steering pump failure during the winter).
I also don't think I'll be leasing again. I hate having to worry about every little thing that happens, but at the time it fit the bill and even 2 years later it was probably one of the smartest financial decisions I'd made.
2025 Jetta GLI Autobahn, 2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4xE
actually, it is reasonable to pay more for a trade than the auction price.
At the auction, the buyer has to pay a fee to the auction, plus transport to get the car back. And it is more of a crapshoot as to recon needed. With a car on the lot being evaluated (especially if it is 1 owner, all records, etc.) they can tell easier if it is really front line ready.
not going to be a huge difference, but a dealer could pay 1K more for a trade than the gavel price at the auction, and still be ahead of the game.
not that they will want to of course. and most likely they will only step up for something really special.
That's a bargain you got on the Impreza... The problem I had when my subsidized Audi lease was up, was that none of the manufacturers were offering any bargain leases when I needed to get a replacement vehicle. At the same time, used vehicle prices were through the roof.
But, I already had my next car picked out.. and I bought it before my lease was up... Generally, we lease my wife's car, and I really didn't like having two leases at the same time... I like owning one that I can put the miles on, if the one car gets out of hand..
But, my wife's weekly commute just went from 200 miles to ZERO! So, we probably won't lease her next car... I find the best value in leases, is when you need right at 15K/year... and, she should be down to 6K-7K per year, now...
Keep in mind to get the tax benefit of the business deduct, you have to use the vehicle for business! So if you're putting mostly personal miles on it....the lease may not work out. I'm a CPA as well and have rarely found a situation that the lease truly was a better deal financially. I did a couple lease assumptions over the years that worked out, but that's a completely different ballgame. As mentioned some higher dollar cars will see benefits from leasing due to depreciation limits, but there are also limits on lease deductions, particularly if it's not used 100% for business.
Yes, a store would rather take a trade in than buy an auction car UNLESS the auction cars are a great value.
Last year, one of the rental companies dumped HUGE quanities of different Infiniti models at the auction. good cars but cars that just don't hold their value.
As a result, we cherry picked the offerings and bought a bunch for thousands below the "book" values. THAT is what they were "worth".
And, we sold them for thousands of dollars below retail and still made a decent profit.
Now, had someone come in wanting to trade one they would have thought we were ripping them off when the Real World Trade Values didn't jive with their "book" numbers.
What if they say they don't use Galves, they use Manheim. Are the Manheim numbers going to be any different than the Galves?
Could be different. But I've found they jive like 99% of the time.
Any particular dealer could pull any number they want from any source at any time. I've had it happen on several occassions. In NJ, though, I can honestly say I've never had one use Mannheim, believe it or not. They have, however, pulled auction numbers... but from some other service that I didn't recognize (had this happen twice at 2 different dealers... 1 Honda and 1 private). I've also had Black Book pulled on me at a Volvo dealer, KBB at a Subaru dealer, and probably some others I'm forgetting.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
My wife's a CPA but she's never leased a car through her business
Do you have to be registered as an LLC, or what? How do you set that up?
My wife is self-employed and I've considered leasing her next car through her business, since we own 3 cars, and hers is really used primarily for work.
actually, it is reasonable to pay more for a trade than the auction price.
At the auction, the buyer has to pay a fee to the auction, plus transport to get the car back. And it is more of a crapshoot as to recon needed. With a car on the lot being evaluated (especially if it is 1 owner, all records, etc.) they can tell easier if it is really front line ready.
But I think that's if they are planning on keeping the car. If they are planning on taking it to auction, then they won't pay anymore. Heck, they'll probably offer a little less to cover their costs to get rid of it.
If they are planning on taking it to auction, then they won't pay anymore. Heck, they'll probably offer a little less to cover their costs to get rid of it.
Correct. And even if they plan to retail it, they still generally won't pay more. If the car doesn't sell retail after 60 days or so, they are going to have to wholesale or auction it anyway.
Doesn't really matter how the business is organized, just so it's legitimate and you can document the business use of the vehicle (log all the miles). She can currently use an actual-cost or mileage method if she's not leasing. As mentioned above, it usually takes a $40k+ vehicle to make the lease attractive from an overall financial perspective. Back when I was doing a TON of driving, I ran a VW Jetta TDI and used the mileage method. That basically generated income because the deduction was far more than my operating costs. But if you must have a new/expensive vehicle then leasing may work out.
Hi, looking for a trade value. Family going from 3 to 5 in a few weeks, so a minivan is in my future
Location: Lancaster, PA or Wash DC (I might try Carmax there I've done it before and work there, figure more demand for Infiniti there, might not matter).
Year/Make/Model: 03 Infiniti G35 sedan Body Style: 4dr Engine: 3.5 liter, 5 AT Driveline: RWD Mileage: 130K Color: [exterior/interior] Silver/black Major Options: [alloys, sun roof, etc.] Sunroof, CD changer, power everything, leather, bose. Condition: Details of interior and exterior, including dings, scratches etc. - Interior in very good shape, mostly no passengers most of the time. Driver seat has wear on leather, no tears. Exterior - good shape no rust etc. 2 dents, one on trunk, one right rear door. Trunk is fairly large might invest in getting it pulled out. Tires - new or % worn. Should have 1/2 plus left, maybe 20K on them. Brakes - decent, front within 10K, new rotors. Maintenance - 5K Mobil 1 changes. Other: Major accident at 106K last October. Basically body in front of A pillar replaced except right headlight. Cooling system, other parts inside replaced as well. Has been great since repaired (came up just short of totalling) but I know it's never the same.....
Thanks again for the tips. One other thing. On that Jeep Liberty's range of 10450-11400, is that the "auction" or "sell" range?
I am finding dealers are willing to accept that range, but they won't go past the lowest so I am getting a lot of 10,500 on it. They are saying that the 11,400 number is "market ready" meaning that is the buying price. Not the selling price. Is that true?
The 11.5k value you got included leather and other features you listed.. But dealers mostly dont consider these options as huge add ons and that`s why they give the auction wholesale value. But 10.5 k is pretty good money for your jeep. If that is the offer they are giving you, I would take it without any hesitation. Try Carmax also if there`s one near by.
But for me,IMO I would take the 10.5k,absolutely and Jeeps are poor sellers unless it`s a Wrangler! :shades:
No point in trading this one. No dealer would want it. 130k+ miles, big accident at 106k-- it`s pretty much going straight to auction from dealer`s lot. With all those imperfections and accident history, I think the dealers will really lowball you b'cos they certainly would not want it. On yours,my Guesstimate would be about 2k-2.5k but much closer to 2k.
Gbrozen has Galves values and that will be more accurate. This is the perfect car to sell privately. Put it on CL/Autotrader for 6k and maybe settle for 4.5k or even 4k depending on the calls you get and then adjust accordingly. :shades:
Those are "auction" numbers. The $11,400 is market ready, true, but no where near the "buying price."
Its kind of a grey area, but here's the deal... if your car is ready to put in the showroom with a sign on it, it is market ready. The low number is what they would pay at auction, and then the difference between that and the market ready number is the extra they pay for transportation, inspection, new tires, or whatever.
So when I trade a car and it is cleaned, polished, new tires, new brakes, etc, I argue that fact. It is market ready. And I usually do get more. But that is if they are keeping it. If they are sending it off to auction, then they plan on getting the low numbers, so that's what they want to give you, of course.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
From here it sounds like MAYBE a $3k-$3500 car. Low end on Galves is $4700, but then we start deducting for its colorful history. Really gonna depend on how well it was fixed.
I agree with the sell-it-yourself option. Somebody could have a fun car for like $5k if they don't mind the shady past. If it was a stick, you'd probably have an even easier time selling yourself.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks, I've been down the sell it myself option this past year on a 2000 Maxima I owned. Had it listed for a few months, lots of test drives, a few offers at a trade-in price, and I finally just sold it to Carmax in January. Everyone had a reason for not making an offer off the bottom. I had kept that car as a commuter for almost two years (I also have an MDX). I had looked at autotrader, lots of cars with 100k+ miles going for 8-10K or more over there still. How much do I lose b/c of the accident? I will say it was fixed well in my opinion. I could keep the G, but am looking to use the cash to help pay off the MDX so I only have one car payment.
Are you serious? If that Infiniti were a stick it wold be near impossible to sell UNLESS that one in a thousand buyer came along!
I'm sure he is. There a plenty of people willing and yes wanting to drive a manual. It would sell pretty quick on craigslist.
Isell - you spent too many years selling toastermobiles to commuters. There are plenty of us who would jump on a used, manual tranny if we could find one. Yes it's a small slice of the market, but it's a lucrative one if you have the right car.
Personally, I'm hoping to get into a used high-end manual in the next couple of years. Something like a CTS or E60 5 series would fit the bill.
Yes, when I stop being a cheap-[non-permissible content removed] and force myself to live with the depreciation hit of piling 30k miles a year on a luxo-car...it will be a manual AWD 5-series bimmer. AWD and manual are tough to find used that's for sure.
Our store sold around 150 used cars a month including a lot of Infinitis we would buhy at the auction. As you know VERY few sticks were made. For a reason. They don't sell.
A couple of times our UCM was tempted because of the bids and he jumped in and bought a couple of sticks. Although they were advertised on our website and on Craigslist, they sat and sat.
Yes, they do have their fans but these people are few and far between.
Now, part of the reason may be the Seattle market. We have tons of traffic and hills like San Francisco. Most people don't want sticks.
Our store sold around 150 used cars a month including a lot of Infinitis we would buhy at the auction. As you know VERY few sticks were made. For a reason. They don't sell.
Perhaps at the retail store level they don't. The vast majority of buyers come in looking for autos. In fact, I won't even bother looking at dealers when it comes time to find a used stick because I know few even bother to buy them at auction.
Yes, they do have their fans but these people are few and far between.
And those buyers typically are willing to spend more when they find the vehicle they have been looking for.
But, yes, I am serious. And I'm happy to share my reasoning.
Yes, of course you are correct that far fewer buyers want a stick. However, the reason I say THIS car would do well is because it is a sedan with a stick and, more importantly, it is a cheap G35 with a stick. With 130k miles and a bad past, this really appeals more as a toy/track car. A toy/track car with an automatic is less desirable than with a stick.
Addtiionally, its rarity is exactly what it has going for it. If it were an automatic, buyers would have scores more to choose from with lower miles and/or clean history. Is the buyer pool thin? Oh you bet! But it is also a buyer pool that is LOOKING for your car and will travel to get it.
This, of course, is a car you NEVER would have had on your lot. So as much as I respect your experience and opinion, I think it might not apply in this particular instance.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
As a car with any sporty pretensions gets old, the manuals are much more coveted. I understand why someone would think otherwise. The average joe buying a new or CPO BMW has to have an automatic. But, if you look at BMWs over 10 years old, you'll see the manuals command a premium. The same holds true for G35s and various others.
I think is something to the idea that a shift-it-yourself type of buyer would be more likely to buy directly from a seller, as opposed to a dealership.
That's how I bought a used Datsun 210, Chevy Sprint, and Mazda Miata, all sticks.
OK, those are cars that a stick won't hurt. People expect those to be sticks.
I've owned two Miatas both sticks and I can't imagine an automatic in one however on those few instances when we did take in a Miata with an automatic they always sold right away.
Comments
How did your wife handle that when you broke it to her?
The dealer was dead on .... if you had no options and had the allowed average of 66k miles. That is $8700-$9650.
BUT... need to add:
$750 for leather and dual power seats
$600 for moonroof
$400 for your nice low miles
Total is $10,450-$11,400.
I've had this happen many many times at a dealership. I've had mixed reactions when showing them the error of their calculations. More often than not, they are not happy to have me point this out ... which leads me to believe they did it on purpose.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If not for the damage, you could probably get $6k-$6500 private party. So I guess start deducting. But then there is that diminished value part of the equation. Or hassle factor. I mean, you knock off $1500 only and its not worth it to someone to buy a damaged one and fix it, only having spent the same as if they bought an undamaged one.
At the same time, however, maybe, just maybe, you find someone who will drive it as is and be happy to have saved some bucks over a pristine example. You just never know.
Mostly, it comes down to how fast you want to sell it. Do you ask $6k and wait for the right sucker... i mean buyer? Or do you ask $5k and take the first $4k cash that comes along?
My guess is, as a trade, a dealer might only offer $2k.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well... that's the whole point.. When the bank is offering an unrealistic residual, that's when you jump on the lease deal.. What do you care if they lose money when you turn it in?
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And, you're right. If you're a fan of leasing, why not take advantage of the artifically low payments and just walk away at the end?
They can lose thousands of dollars at the auction and it won't matter to you!
Never works for me though, because I _use_ my cars ... bikes, pets, etc, they'd get me at the end!
Subaru has a 68% residual on the Legacy SE model. 3 years, I forget the mileage.
They're gambling big-time.
car_man looked it up for us, then had to double-check it was indeed a 3 year lease, and not 2.
A 68% residual after three years???
What is it, a 5000 mile per year lease?
That is NUTS!
Thanks again for the info. This will really help.
What if they say they don't use Galves, they use Manheim. Are the Manheim numbers going to be any different than the Galves?
I can see a dealer saying "well Galves can be inaccurate at times, we use Manheim to get REAL numbers".
So you said the 135i has a 63% residual for 36/45k and 66% for 36mo/30k?
Lets assume the cost of the car is 42k. How do you factor in how the residual works when calculating a lease payment? What does the residual mean?
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/leasing/articles/48365/article.html
I can see why the lease would be a decent deal on the BMW. Interesting.
I was considering used, but I may have to reconsider. I have a small business and my accountant says its better to lease than finance for tax purposes.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
So... if you drive a $20K car, the difference in buying or leasing, as far as a business tax deduction is probably not enough to worry about.. Certainly not enough to make up for the added expense of buying a car, every three years, when you might keep it for five. But, if you are getting a Mercedes E-Class, the difference in the tax consequences could be huge.
For personal leasing, you just have to pick the leases that the manufacturers are promoting heavily, for whatever reason... I drove my 2008 Subaru Impreza for $5612 for two years and 30K miles... Those numbers are hard to beat on a new car purchase..
regards,
kyfdx
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The market is a moving target that can change quickly. Manheim numbers reflect REAL transactions and not someone's guess.
a store won't pay you more for a car than they are going for at the auction unless it's something exceptional. Why would they?
That said it was probably the most vanilla car I have ever driven, but it kept me out of a bind when Pittsburgh got the 2.5 feet of snow in 2 weeks and it was extremely reliable (save a power steering pump failure during the winter).
I also don't think I'll be leasing again. I hate having to worry about every little thing that happens, but at the time it fit the bill and even 2 years later it was probably one of the smartest financial decisions I'd made.
At the auction, the buyer has to pay a fee to the auction, plus transport to get the car back. And it is more of a crapshoot as to recon needed. With a car on the lot being evaluated (especially if it is 1 owner, all records, etc.) they can tell easier if it is really front line ready.
not going to be a huge difference, but a dealer could pay 1K more for a trade than the gavel price at the auction, and still be ahead of the game.
not that they will want to of course. and most likely they will only step up for something really special.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
But, I already had my next car picked out.. and I bought it before my lease was up... Generally, we lease my wife's car, and I really didn't like having two leases at the same time... I like owning one that I can put the miles on, if the one car gets out of hand..
But, my wife's weekly commute just went from 200 miles to ZERO! So, we probably won't lease her next car... I find the best value in leases, is when you need right at 15K/year... and, she should be down to 6K-7K per year, now...
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Last year, one of the rental companies dumped HUGE quanities of different Infiniti models at the auction. good cars but cars that just don't hold their value.
As a result, we cherry picked the offerings and bought a bunch for thousands below the "book" values. THAT is what they were "worth".
And, we sold them for thousands of dollars below retail and still made a decent profit.
Now, had someone come in wanting to trade one they would have thought we were ripping them off when the Real World Trade Values didn't jive with their "book" numbers.
Could be different. But I've found they jive like 99% of the time.
Any particular dealer could pull any number they want from any source at any time. I've had it happen on several occassions. In NJ, though, I can honestly say I've never had one use Mannheim, believe it or not. They have, however, pulled auction numbers... but from some other service that I didn't recognize (had this happen twice at 2 different dealers... 1 Honda and 1 private). I've also had Black Book pulled on me at a Volvo dealer, KBB at a Subaru dealer, and probably some others I'm forgetting.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Do you have to be registered as an LLC, or what? How do you set that up?
My wife is self-employed and I've considered leasing her next car through her business, since we own 3 cars, and hers is really used primarily for work.
Maybe sebring95 can chime in.
At the auction, the buyer has to pay a fee to the auction, plus transport to get the car back. And it is more of a crapshoot as to recon needed. With a car on the lot being evaluated (especially if it is 1 owner, all records, etc.) they can tell easier if it is really front line ready.
But I think that's if they are planning on keeping the car. If they are planning on taking it to auction, then they won't pay anymore. Heck, they'll probably offer a little less to cover their costs to get rid of it.
Correct. And even if they plan to retail it, they still generally won't pay more. If the car doesn't sell retail after 60 days or so, they are going to have to wholesale or auction it anyway.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Location: Lancaster, PA or Wash DC (I might try Carmax there I've done it before and work there, figure more demand for Infiniti there, might not matter).
Year/Make/Model: 03 Infiniti G35 sedan
Body Style: 4dr
Engine: 3.5 liter, 5 AT
Driveline: RWD
Mileage: 130K
Color: [exterior/interior] Silver/black
Major Options: [alloys, sun roof, etc.] Sunroof, CD changer, power everything, leather, bose.
Condition:
Details of interior and exterior, including dings, scratches etc. - Interior in very good shape, mostly no passengers most of the time. Driver seat has wear on leather, no tears. Exterior - good shape no rust etc. 2 dents, one on trunk, one right rear door. Trunk is fairly large might invest in getting it pulled out.
Tires - new or % worn. Should have 1/2 plus left, maybe 20K on them.
Brakes - decent, front within 10K, new rotors.
Maintenance - 5K Mobil 1 changes.
Other: Major accident at 106K last October. Basically body in front of A pillar replaced except right headlight. Cooling system, other parts inside replaced as well. Has been great since repaired (came up just short of totalling) but I know it's never the same.....
thanks.
Thanks again for the tips. One other thing. On that Jeep Liberty's range of 10450-11400, is that the "auction" or "sell" range?
I am finding dealers are willing to accept that range, but they won't go past the lowest so I am getting a lot of 10,500 on it. They are saying that the 11,400 number is "market ready" meaning that is the buying price. Not the selling price. Is that true?
But for me,IMO I would take the 10.5k,absolutely and Jeeps are poor sellers unless it`s a Wrangler! :shades:
With all those imperfections and accident history, I think the dealers will really lowball you b'cos they certainly would not want it. On yours,my Guesstimate would be about 2k-2.5k but much closer to 2k.
Gbrozen has Galves values and that will be more accurate. This is the perfect car to sell privately. Put it on CL/Autotrader for 6k and maybe settle for 4.5k or even 4k depending on the calls you get and then adjust accordingly. :shades:
I own a minivan but I commute in a Miata.
Even with my 2 seats, I often only take 1 kid to an event or activity. You'll get to use the G more than you think.
Add the van to the fleet, keep the G for your commutes and drives when you're not with the whole family, which is surprisingly often.
Its kind of a grey area, but here's the deal... if your car is ready to put in the showroom with a sign on it, it is market ready. The low number is what they would pay at auction, and then the difference between that and the market ready number is the extra they pay for transportation, inspection, new tires, or whatever.
So when I trade a car and it is cleaned, polished, new tires, new brakes, etc, I argue that fact. It is market ready. And I usually do get more. But that is if they are keeping it. If they are sending it off to auction, then they plan on getting the low numbers, so that's what they want to give you, of course.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I agree with the sell-it-yourself option. Somebody could have a fun car for like $5k if they don't mind the shady past. If it was a stick, you'd probably have an even easier time selling yourself.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm sure he is. There a plenty of people willing and yes wanting to drive a manual. It would sell pretty quick on craigslist.
Isell - you spent too many years selling toastermobiles to commuters. There are plenty of us who would jump on a used, manual tranny if we could find one. Yes it's a small slice of the market, but it's a lucrative one if you have the right car.
Personally, I'm hoping to get into a used high-end manual in the next couple of years. Something like a CTS or E60 5 series would fit the bill.
A couple of times our UCM was tempted because of the bids and he jumped in and bought a couple of sticks. Although they were advertised on our website and on Craigslist, they sat and sat.
Yes, they do have their fans but these people are few and far between.
Now, part of the reason may be the Seattle market. We have tons of traffic and hills like San Francisco. Most people don't want sticks.
Perhaps at the retail store level they don't. The vast majority of buyers come in looking for autos. In fact, I won't even bother looking at dealers when it comes time to find a used stick because I know few even bother to buy them at auction.
Yes, they do have their fans but these people are few and far between.
And those buyers typically are willing to spend more when they find the vehicle they have been looking for.
The reason they don't sell well is because there aren't many out there to buy.
If they were better sellers, they would produce more of them.
But, yes, I am serious. And I'm happy to share my reasoning.
Yes, of course you are correct that far fewer buyers want a stick. However, the reason I say THIS car would do well is because it is a sedan with a stick and, more importantly, it is a cheap G35 with a stick. With 130k miles and a bad past, this really appeals more as a toy/track car. A toy/track car with an automatic is less desirable than with a stick.
Addtiionally, its rarity is exactly what it has going for it. If it were an automatic, buyers would have scores more to choose from with lower miles and/or clean history. Is the buyer pool thin? Oh you bet! But it is also a buyer pool that is LOOKING for your car and will travel to get it.
This, of course, is a car you NEVER would have had on your lot. So as much as I respect your experience and opinion, I think it might not apply in this particular instance.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
That's how I bought a used Datsun 210, Chevy Sprint, and Mazda Miata, all sticks.
It has so many things against it that it's going to HAVE to be sold cheap.
I guess the seller will find out.
I've owned two Miatas both sticks and I can't imagine an automatic in one however on those few instances when we did take in a Miata with an automatic they always sold right away.