Due to various issues, namely my mothers discontent with it, we are looking to trade in the following in the Philadelphia region.
2009 Infiniti FX50 Base (which is still loaded up - navigation, 360 cameras, front/rear/side sensors etc) 13,000 miles Dark blue/graphite color Pristine condition - this car has been my dads baby and has NO marks on it whatsoever.
We got an excellent deal on it, so I'm curious to know where we stand.
Thanks!
2025 Jetta GLI Autobahn, 2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4xE
KBB has the trade-in amount at around $44,200, but Edmunds is quite a bit lower at $39,900. The Edmunds $40k quote seems more realistic based on the advertised prices I'm seeing for similar vehicles in the area ($43-$45k on average).
Is there any chance you'll be trading it for another Infiniti model? The Infiniti dealer is going to be your best bet for getting the most trade-in value! The car is in pristine condition with very low mileage, so it would naturally be re-sold as thru their Certified Pre-Owned Program.
Just to cover all your bases, if there is a Carmax in your area- take it to them for an appraisal. They will make you a purchase offer on your vehicle even if you have no interest in buying anything from them. Usually, the dealer from whom you're buying a new car will offer you a bit more than Carmax (they have more riding on the deal- a sale!) but in some cases Carmax will offer more.....so it's a good idea to check and be aware of all options you have availiable!
There is no carmax in our area. We would not be trading on an Infiniti, but the dealer we would be trading to has an Infiniti franchise next door. Curious to see what Q says from galves. I'm thinking 40 is the magic number too though.
2025 Jetta GLI Autobahn, 2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4xE
DC Metro 2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L 44k Black/Beige Leather Some cosmetic scratches, we'll have it detailed before showing it around and it should look great. OEM tires and brakes.
Ouch. 6 months ago, when it had about 36k, CarMax offered $20k for it. Guess we should have taken it, but there wasn't a replacement I wanted at that time.
Well, if you got rid of this car 6 months ago, you probably have to get a 2010 car instead of a 2011 car so, the 2010 is one year old at this point = lower value than the 2011 car.
I think gbrozen might be a little low. I was just watching a friends trade deal on one of these...'07 EX-L with NAV/DVD 41k miles and it went for $21k on a straight trade. I would think without NAV/DVD you should do closer to $19k.
Well, its interesting--the values of the online guides are all over the map. (I know none of them are anywhere near as accurate as what's actually happening out there, but interesting as a basic guide.) KBB.com is listing the trade in value (good condition), at $19825, edmunds.com is at $17683. (For the record, I tend to think the Edmunds price is closer to reality.)
What I'm trying to figure out is this--I still owe money on this car, so at what point do I tried to maximize my "net." I owe about $10.5k, and I'm paying exactly $250/month. So does the rate of depreciation exceed $250/month/$3000 a year?
Again, different answers from different sources. In order to try to project out, I used 2006 and 2006 values and tried to project every 6 months. (For the May 2011 value, I took the average of the 2006 and 2007 modes, and for May 2012, I took the average of the 2005 and 2006.) For mileage, I projected out based on our current average of about 1200 miles a month.
It broke down like this: May 2011: Kbb $18112, Edmunds $16671, November 2011: Kbb $16350, Edmunds $15402, May 2012: Kbb $14625, Edmunds $14307, November 2012: Kbb $12575, Edmunds $13040.
So what's interesting is that Kbb.com has the car depreciating at a much higher rate than does Edmunds. It matters because at the rate I'm paying down, going with the KBB value, I should trade sooner, rather than later, but going by Edmunds, I should actually wait it out because I would net more at the end of my two year run than I would right now.
Now, you have to factor in a few other things: maintenance/repair expenses (depending on how long I wait, this van is going to need new tires and front brakes, so that's probably $1000+) and the price of the new vehicle I want to buy (likely going down during the 2011 model year, and then back up with the 2012 model due to the standard price increases.)
But the general question is how rapidly will this vehicle depreciate? More than $250/month/$3000/year, or less?
I should mention that I actually paid $25294 for this van new, in November 2007--so regardless of which value is right, it has held its value remarkably well.
It will likely depreciate less than $3000 per year. Given your (fantastic) purchase price, that has also been your experience until now.
It seems to me though that the real question here is how much more will a new one cost (both in absolute terms and depreciation) and whether you want to (or can) pay the difference.
True, but you can't really go by my purchase price...the depreciation really comes from MSRP, doesn't it?
Right--I'm basically going to be trading one loan for another, and since this one isn't going to be paid off for quite a while (2014). All I'm really interested in is keeping the monthly payments relatively close to one another. (I've got another, more expensive loan coming off the books next summer and I'm not planning on replacing that vehicle.) If I put down $10k on the vehicle I'm looking to purchase, I should be able to keep the monthly payment within $75 of that $250 a month I am paying. (And most of that $10k would come from what I net on this one.)
I think gbrozen might be a little low. I was just watching a friends trade deal on one of these...'07 EX-L with NAV/DVD 41k miles and it went for $21k on a straight trade. I would think without NAV/DVD you should do closer to $19k.
That's really a different vehicle. With those options, that would appear to be the Touring model with Nav. Per Galves, that would, in fact trade for $20k-21,300. So while your friend did get high trade, its still accurate.
$3k difference for Nav, DVD, and whatever else Touring comes with may seem like alot, but it is apparently what the market dictates.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
No, it isn't neccessarily a different vehicle. It was probably an EX-L with RES and NAV. Until this year, Honda offered both as stand alone options with the EX-L model. But other than RES and NAV, its identical, there are no other features. Now, what RES and NAV are worth, I don't know...$1.5k?
As mentioned above, it indeed was an EX-L R&N (same as what I have in a 2005 model). A Touring model with a mediocre set of PAX tires will be a big ding on resale. In fact I've seen a couple Touring's listed retail for similar money to EX-L's if they still have the PAX. Need $1,500 to swap out those rims/tires and that's about the price difference between the models. Touring adds PAX, power rear hatch (on 2005-2007, included on EX-L 2008+), memory seats, dimming mirror, trip computer, auto headlamps, upgraded stereo, fog lamps, power pedals, and deducts 8-passenger seating. I needed 8-passenger seating so had to go with the low-rent EX-L. Too bad I missed out on the PAX though!
I never understand the price premium between the EX-L R&N and the Touring, particularly in '09 and '10, when the backup camera was added. You got the memory seats (admittedly, I'd like to have that), trip computer, fog lamps and a better stereo system (plus a few other things you mentioned)--but it was several thousand more.
Not surprising that they eliminated that model in '11. Canniablized Touring too much. Although the Touring Elite in the '11 is apparently in highest demand, and that's another case where between Touring and Touring Elite, I don't get the value.
well, if that's all true, for some reason, I can't add NAV to an EX model in the galves system. So MAYBE, just maybe, your friend got the trade-in value of a Touring when he shouldn't have. I can't say. Of course, there is always the fact that a trade situation is rarely as straightforward as it seems. Overallowances, underallowances, etc, etc.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well the NAV wasn't an option on the EX...only the EX-L. The L adds several options beyond just leather as well...one of which is the moonroof on an '05-'07 model.
"Although the Touring Elite in the '11 is apparently in highest demand, and that's another case where between Touring and Touring Elite, I don't get the value."
The price difference between the Touring and Touring Elite is $2495. That adds High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlamps, Blind Spot Information System (BSI), Honda DVD Wideview Rear Entertainment System and a 650-watt 12-speaker Premium Audio System with 15GB Hard Drive and Surround Sound.
Well, at least to me, "depreciation" is how much an item has declined in value from its original purchase price at any given point in time. The concept is different from, but related to, residual calculation.
Can't see how one could put 10K down on an '11 Odyssey and have a payment of $325 per month.
By doing an 84 month loan, which is what I did on the 2007. 4.49% APR (or less.) At the time in '07, the difference between 60 and 84 was half a point. (All thanks to my stellar credit union.) Finance guy at the Honda store didn't believe me until I brought him the paperwork.
Now, just as I would do this time, I put $10k down last time too, also from a trade. As long as you do that, you're not going to be underwater on this vehicle even with an 84.
By doing an 84 month loan, which is what I did on the 2007. 4.49% APR (or less.) At the time in '07, the difference between 60 and 84 was half a point. (All thanks to my stellar credit union.) Finance guy at the Honda store didn't believe me until I brought him the paperwork.
Now, just as I would do this time, I put $10k down last time too, also from a trade. As long as you do that, you're not going to be underwater on this vehicle even with an 84.
Thinking about getting a new car in the next few months and wondering what my car is worth to trade it in. Thanks for the help.
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL Year/Make/Model: 2006 Lexus IS 250 Driveline: RWD Mileage: 81,000 Color: Black exterior. Cashmere interior Major Options: Wood, Ventilated/Heated seats, Navigation Condition:Interior is in good shape. Looks newer than 5 years with no leather cracking (normal wear on seat). No dings on exterior, but front shows a lot of road rash from highways driving. Brakes/tires replaced within last 6 months. Other: Rear end accident repaired at Lexus dealership ($10,000 worth of damage).
It's been mentioned here plenty in the past...but just for repetition the damage really hurts you. Buyers at dealerships are not interested in wrecked vehicles and those of the Lexus persuasion will be even more particular. Doesn’t matter if it was fixed to perfection it’s a big unknown when this thing starts bouncing around used lots/auctions. I would say $10,000 on a trade deal.
You might do better selling it privately where you can explain the damages/repairs directly to the next owner. You might get $14,000 or maybe better if someone happens to come along that isn't concerned about the damage. Dealers aren't going to be likely to take on that bet.
It doesn’t make financial sense to replace 2007 Odyssey with 2011 Odyssey. Older vehicles depreciate less than new.
Odyssey is reliable and should last 10 years with no issues; just make sure you get the soft brake pedal recall done. In addition, I am willing to bet anything that the 07 Odyssey will be more reliable than 11 for the next 5 years. 11 is a new model year and it will have bugs and design issues.
In addition, when you extend the loan to 84 months, you’ll have lower monthly payment, but you are paying more interest over the life of the loan.
You'd be looking at $13k-$14.5k without the accident. The accident history is going to hurt quite a bit- $10-$10.5k is the most you'll see on trade-in, most likely even less than that.
Your best bet will be to try selling it to a private party. You are the car's best advocate to a potential buyer, you can discuss the extend of the damage and what repairs were required and who did them. If you trade it to a dealer, they'll just sell dump it at auction and it'll be just another wrecked car with questionable history!
Not to open a can of worms here, but when did the accident occur, was the other driver at-fault and were you compensated for diminished value?
It happened almost 4 years ago and the damage was just a few hundred dollars below the person's insurance coverage (min coverage). I would have had to go through my insurance to get diminished value and I felt that the hit to my premiums as well as the deductible would negate the benefit. I didn't think that it would hurt by $3-$4k though.
Does waiting another year make a difference as the car will be over 5 years old and just below 100,000 miles? The car runs fine so keeping it isn't a big deal.
again after a recent European business trip. Bought my TSX a few years ago when they were going to bring the diesel version to the U.S., but no such luck (thanks, CARB). Now I'm thinking VW diesel.
What's an '08 (pre-beak) TSX worth: Manual trans Base (no nav) Phoenix area 42K miles Red ext/black int High-end (Huber-optik) window tinting No damage
Ya know...I used to be about the biggest diesel head around here...but I wouldn't touch a new one. Our fuel in the U.S. just isn't up to the standards of other parts of the world and VW hasn't modified their vehicles accordingly. I got my neighbor into the TDI's years ago and his '06 and '09 have both been major disappointments in terms of engine reliablitly. '06 engine melted down at 140k miles and the '09 fuel system grenaded at 50k miles (that's a $10k fix out of warranty....). He's moved on to something else.
I'm of the opinion that U.S. diesel is much better these days than it was a few years ago. Sulfur has been reduced to (I think) 15 ppm, which is very close to the European standard. Time was that sulfur content was measured in percentage points, not PPM.
Our fuel in the U.S. just isn't up to the standards of other parts of the world and VW hasn't modified their vehicles accordingly.
You seem to be onto something; US ULSD doesn't seem to getting along too well with the new euro diesels. I was considering a new Jetta wagon, but the HPFP problems that 09+ VWs are having is keeping me away. Especially when VW is not consistently covering this under warranty...major money to fix, just as your friend found out.
I think I've heard some BMWs are having issues too??
Better in terms of emissions yes...but without sulfur you lose the natural lubricating properties. The HPFP's are grenading due to a lack of lubrication. From what I've read...the HPFP's are spec'd to a better fuel than we have here in terms of lubrication. BMW is having similar issues. My company has hundreds of diesel trucks and equipment...we are still buying higher sulfur off-road fuel but are testing regularly to ensure lubrication. We have equipment that costs over $100k for an engine REBUILD....we won't run low-sulfur diesel until there's no other option then will spend a fortune on lubricating additives.
Agreed. We had a 2003 TDI Beetle in the family that had a timing belt mishap out of warranty. The dealer experience is awful and the TDIs are rare enough that they don't have a lot of hand-on experience repairing them.
If you're gung ho on getting a "driver's car," either step up to a BMW or get an Accord, Civic, Sonata, or Altima with a manual (none of those are all that different from VW's current offerings). If you're gung ho on getting something that's very technologically advanced, get a Prius, Fusion Hybrid, or Sonata Hybrid.
Well, if we only drove vehicles that made financial sense, we'd all be in 10 year old Toyota's....maybe I'd get my wife a nice used Previa!
But seriously--there are a lot of factors. It really depends on what I can get for my '07. I am at a point where I really am going to need the 5 latch positions in the 2011.
You will pay more over the life of the loan if you pay the same amount for 84 months. But why not just pay it down faster? This way, you can go at your own pace. In my instance, since I have $410 a month coming off the points on my other car in a few months, I can put more down on the principle of the Odyssey (new or old.)
As far as reliability--of course you are right about first year models. I am concerned about that. I am also concerned about driving my 07 out of warranty. Mostly when the powertrain warranty expires. We have had some issues. And, as I said, I need to put about another $1k into it just for tires and brakes anyway. So...like I said, lots of factors.
High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlamps, Blind Spot Information System (BSI), Honda DVD Wideview Rear Entertainment System and a 650-watt 12-speaker Premium Audio System with 15GB Hard Drive and Surround Sound.
All essential features on a minivan, right?
Man, no kidding.
I remember buying my first new car, still in college, and all I wanted was A/C and a cassette player.
Now the family wants 17-zone automatic climate control with heated and cooled and massaging seats and independent blue-ray screens for each of the 7 passengers.
I remember buying my first new car, still in college, and all I wanted was A/C and a cassette player.
My 1st new car, bought while I was a college sophomore, was a '68 Rambler American 2-door sedan for $1795. That bought me a 199 cubic inch 6 with a 3-speed manual on the column (3 on the tree) with non-synchro 1st gear (had to learn double-clutching), absolutely no power assists, no A/C, 4-wheel drum brakes & front crank windows (rear windows were fixed). Only options were AM radio & cigarette lighter.
No carpeting. That was an option, so my car's floor were covered with black vinyl, which looked good for the 1st day that I owned the car.
Dad paid for the car, & he refused to shell out an extra $25 for electric windshield wipers. Standard wipers worked off engine vacuum, so when you drove up a long hill, of which there are plenty in upstate NY, the wipers would gradually slow down to a near standstill. Then, as you started down the other side of that hill, the wipers would speed up. GM, Ford & Chrysler had made electric wipers standard back in the 40s, but poor little AMC didn't follow suit until 1970 or thereabouts.
When I pointed out to Dad that those lousy vacuum-powered wipers would probably kill me, he shrugged & promised to spend an extra $25 on my funeral.
I got my first new car as a college sophomore also, a 1961 Mercury Comet. It had automatic transmission and a radio. Perfect. Actually not a bad little car but it was lacking one of the greatest automotive inventions in history IMO...radial tires...they came along a couple of years later.
Most of you guys have probably always taken radial tires for granted and never got to live with non radials. Talk about feel of the road. Those pre radial tires would follow every little nook and cranny in a road. Radials made a ton of difference and were a big deal when they first came out.
Radials made a ton of difference and were a big deal when they first came out.
Strongly agree.
I might be wrong about this, but I think that radial tires have been around since the 50s. (I'm too lazy to google for verification.) But until the mid-70s, only expensive imports were equipped with radials as standard equipment.
Here's another reason to appreciate radials: the bias-ply tires that were standard on 99% of new cars sold during the 60s typically lasted for only 12K miles. For the average driver, that meant replacing your tires every year. (If you lived in the snowbelt & switched to snow tires for winter driving, you might go longer between tire purchases.)
The last new car that I bought that wasn't factory-equipped with radials was a '74 Honda Civic, which came with Yokohama bias-ply tires. That tire had an awful reputation, so on my way home from the Honda dealer, I stopped at a tire store & replaced them with Michelin steel-belted radials.
My step-father was in the tire and tire supply business. He was an early adopter of radial tires... From the early '70s (Caddys and Lincolns were the rides).
I can't tell you how many people would flag us down at stop signs, and tell us our tires were low!
A car with A/C? I didn't get my first car with air until 1990! (and, I started driving in 1974).
Most of you guys have probably always taken radial tires for granted and never got to live with non radials.
My first car was a used '71 Dodge Charger that had bias ply tires. When it was time for new rubber, I looked in the owner's manual and it said that radial tires were not recommended. I was bummed. I called a Dodge dealer and asked a veteran salesman about it and he shrugged it off. He joked that 1971 must have been a bad year for tires.
I went ahead and bought a set of radials. Wow... what a difference. Hadn't thought about that in a long time... thanks for the memory.
You are right, radials had been around for a long time, just not in general use like they are now. Back in those days 12,000 miles on a set of tires was pretty good.
"...1971 Charger...the owner's manual...said that radial tires were not reccommended..."
That was because some models weren't equipped with anti-sway bars. When my wife got her 74' Charger the salesman had to look under the car before he would sell them to me. Something about radials flexing in the sidewall and the car leaning too much if you didn't have a sway bar.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
We went to trade in my wifes car (she does not like the stiff seats and ride) and they only offered $35,000 I was a bit shocked. Was this a fair offer? 2010 328i Convertible in Palm Springs 3.0 Liter Power folding top. 10,000 miles Atlantic blue perfect condition Premium Package Sport package Steptronic Trans Comfort access Heated seats ipod Navigation Logic 7 sound with sat. MSRP was $56,525 six months ago. Paid $51,200 What should we expect to get for trade in at a dealer?
Comments
Thanks.
2009 Infiniti FX50
Base (which is still loaded up - navigation, 360 cameras, front/rear/side sensors etc)
13,000 miles
Dark blue/graphite color
Pristine condition - this car has been my dads baby and has NO marks on it whatsoever.
We got an excellent deal on it, so I'm curious to know where we stand.
Thanks!
Is there any chance you'll be trading it for another Infiniti model? The Infiniti dealer is going to be your best bet for getting the most trade-in value! The car is in pristine condition with very low mileage, so it would naturally be re-sold as thru their Certified Pre-Owned Program.
Just to cover all your bases, if there is a Carmax in your area- take it to them for an appraisal. They will make you a purchase offer on your vehicle even if you have no interest in buying anything from them. Usually, the dealer from whom you're buying a new car will offer you a bit more than Carmax (they have more riding on the deal- a sale!) but in some cases Carmax will offer more.....so it's a good idea to check and be aware of all options you have availiable!
Good luck!
No carmax, but there is that carsense place. Can't say as I've had a good experience with them. The one time I called they were real low.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L
44k
Black/Beige Leather
Some cosmetic scratches, we'll have it detailed before showing it around and it should look great.
OEM tires and brakes.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
What I'm trying to figure out is this--I still owe money on this car, so at what point do I tried to maximize my "net." I owe about $10.5k, and I'm paying exactly $250/month. So does the rate of depreciation exceed $250/month/$3000 a year?
Again, different answers from different sources. In order to try to project out, I used 2006 and 2006 values and tried to project every 6 months. (For the May 2011 value, I took the average of the 2006 and 2007 modes, and for May 2012, I took the average of the 2005 and 2006.) For mileage, I projected out based on our current average of about 1200 miles a month.
It broke down like this: May 2011: Kbb $18112, Edmunds $16671, November 2011: Kbb $16350, Edmunds $15402, May 2012: Kbb $14625, Edmunds $14307, November 2012: Kbb $12575, Edmunds $13040.
So what's interesting is that Kbb.com has the car depreciating at a much higher rate than does Edmunds. It matters because at the rate I'm paying down, going with the KBB value, I should trade sooner, rather than later, but going by Edmunds, I should actually wait it out because I would net more at the end of my two year run than I would right now.
Now, you have to factor in a few other things: maintenance/repair expenses (depending on how long I wait, this van is going to need new tires and front brakes, so that's probably $1000+) and the price of the new vehicle I want to buy (likely going down during the 2011 model year, and then back up with the 2012 model due to the standard price increases.)
But the general question is how rapidly will this vehicle depreciate? More than $250/month/$3000/year, or less?
I should mention that I actually paid $25294 for this van new, in November 2007--so regardless of which value is right, it has held its value remarkably well.
It seems to me though that the real question here is how much more will a new one cost (both in absolute terms and depreciation) and whether you want to (or can) pay the difference.
Right--I'm basically going to be trading one loan for another, and since this one isn't going to be paid off for quite a while (2014). All I'm really interested in is keeping the monthly payments relatively close to one another. (I've got another, more expensive loan coming off the books next summer and I'm not planning on replacing that vehicle.) If I put down $10k on the vehicle I'm looking to purchase, I should be able to keep the monthly payment within $75 of that $250 a month I am paying. (And most of that $10k would come from what I net on this one.)
Yes, residuals are a % of the original MSRP.
This morning I heard an ad for an Elantra lease for $99/month. :surprise:
I guess they are clearing the old ones out for the arrival of the far more handsome replacement.
That's really a different vehicle. With those options, that would appear to be the Touring model with Nav. Per Galves, that would, in fact trade for $20k-21,300. So while your friend did get high trade, its still accurate.
$3k difference for Nav, DVD, and whatever else Touring comes with may seem like alot, but it is apparently what the market dictates.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Touring does add a whole bunch of other things.
Not surprising that they eliminated that model in '11. Canniablized Touring too much. Although the Touring Elite in the '11 is apparently in highest demand, and that's another case where between Touring and Touring Elite, I don't get the value.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The price difference between the Touring and Touring Elite is $2495. That adds High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlamps, Blind Spot Information System (BSI), Honda DVD Wideview Rear Entertainment System and a 650-watt 12-speaker Premium Audio System with 15GB Hard Drive and Surround Sound.
All essential features on a minivan, right?
Can't see how one could put 10K down on an '11 Odyssey and have a payment of $325 per month.
Now, just as I would do this time, I put $10k down last time too, also from a trade. As long as you do that, you're not going to be underwater on this vehicle even with an 84.
Now, just as I would do this time, I put $10k down last time too, also from a trade. As long as you do that, you're not going to be underwater on this vehicle even with an 84.
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Year/Make/Model: 2006 Lexus IS 250
Driveline: RWD
Mileage: 81,000
Color: Black exterior. Cashmere interior
Major Options: Wood, Ventilated/Heated seats, Navigation
Condition:Interior is in good shape. Looks newer than 5 years with no leather cracking (normal wear on seat). No dings on exterior, but front shows a lot of road rash from highways driving. Brakes/tires replaced within last 6 months.
Other: Rear end accident repaired at Lexus dealership ($10,000 worth of damage).
You might do better selling it privately where you can explain the damages/repairs directly to the next owner. You might get $14,000 or maybe better if someone happens to come along that isn't concerned about the damage. Dealers aren't going to be likely to take on that bet.
Odyssey is reliable and should last 10 years with no issues; just make sure you get the soft brake pedal recall done. In addition, I am willing to bet anything that the 07 Odyssey will be more reliable than 11 for the next 5 years. 11 is a new model year and it will have bugs and design issues.
In addition, when you extend the loan to 84 months, you’ll have lower monthly payment, but you are paying more interest over the life of the loan.
Your best bet will be to try selling it to a private party. You are the car's best advocate to a potential buyer, you can discuss the extend of the damage and what repairs were required and who did them. If you trade it to a dealer, they'll just sell dump it at auction and it'll be just another wrecked car with questionable history!
Not to open a can of worms here, but when did the accident occur, was the other driver at-fault and were you compensated for diminished value?
Does waiting another year make a difference as the car will be over 5 years old and just below 100,000 miles? The car runs fine so keeping it isn't a big deal.
What's an '08 (pre-beak) TSX worth:
Manual trans
Base (no nav)
Phoenix area
42K miles
Red ext/black int
High-end (Huber-optik) window tinting
No damage
I used to drive a Kenworth.
You seem to be onto something; US ULSD doesn't seem to getting along too well with the new euro diesels. I was considering a new Jetta wagon, but the HPFP problems that 09+ VWs are having is keeping me away. Especially when VW is not consistently covering this under warranty...major money to fix, just as your friend found out.
I think I've heard some BMWs are having issues too??
25 NX 450h+ / 24 Sienna Plat AWD / 23 Civic Type-R / 21 Boxster GTS 4.0 / 03 Montero Ltd
If you're gung ho on getting a "driver's car," either step up to a BMW or get an Accord, Civic, Sonata, or Altima with a manual (none of those are all that different from VW's current offerings). If you're gung ho on getting something that's very technologically advanced, get a Prius, Fusion Hybrid, or Sonata Hybrid.
But seriously--there are a lot of factors. It really depends on what I can get for my '07. I am at a point where I really am going to need the 5 latch positions in the 2011.
You will pay more over the life of the loan if you pay the same amount for 84 months. But why not just pay it down faster? This way, you can go at your own pace. In my instance, since I have $410 a month coming off the points on my other car in a few months, I can put more down on the principle of the Odyssey (new or old.)
As far as reliability--of course you are right about first year models. I am concerned about that. I am also concerned about driving my 07 out of warranty. Mostly when the powertrain warranty expires. We have had some issues. And, as I said, I need to put about another $1k into it just for tires and brakes anyway. So...like I said, lots of factors.
All essential features on a minivan, right?
Man, no kidding.
I remember buying my first new car, still in college, and all I wanted was A/C and a cassette player.
Now the family wants 17-zone automatic climate control with heated and cooled and massaging seats and independent blue-ray screens for each of the 7 passengers.
My 1st new car, bought while I was a college sophomore, was a '68 Rambler American 2-door sedan for $1795. That bought me a 199 cubic inch 6 with a 3-speed manual on the column (3 on the tree) with non-synchro 1st gear (had to learn double-clutching), absolutely no power assists, no A/C, 4-wheel drum brakes & front crank windows (rear windows were fixed). Only options were AM radio & cigarette lighter.
No carpeting. That was an option, so my car's floor were covered with black vinyl, which looked good for the 1st day that I owned the car.
Dad paid for the car, & he refused to shell out an extra $25 for electric windshield wipers. Standard wipers worked off engine vacuum, so when you drove up a long hill, of which there are plenty in upstate NY, the wipers would gradually slow down to a near standstill. Then, as you started down the other side of that hill, the wipers would speed up. GM, Ford & Chrysler had made electric wipers standard back in the 40s, but poor little AMC didn't follow suit until 1970 or thereabouts.
When I pointed out to Dad that those lousy vacuum-powered wipers would probably kill me, he shrugged & promised to spend an extra $25 on my funeral.
Most of you guys have probably always taken radial tires for granted and never got to live with non radials. Talk about feel of the road. Those pre radial tires would follow every little nook and cranny in a road. Radials made a ton of difference and were a big deal when they first came out.
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
Strongly agree.
I might be wrong about this, but I think that radial tires have been around since the 50s. (I'm too lazy to google for verification.) But until the mid-70s, only expensive imports were equipped with radials as standard equipment.
Here's another reason to appreciate radials: the bias-ply tires that were standard on 99% of new cars sold during the 60s typically lasted for only 12K miles. For the average driver, that meant replacing your tires every year. (If you lived in the snowbelt & switched to snow tires for winter driving, you might go longer between tire purchases.)
The last new car that I bought that wasn't factory-equipped with radials was a '74 Honda Civic, which came with Yokohama bias-ply tires. That tire had an awful reputation, so on my way home from the Honda dealer, I stopped at a tire store & replaced them with Michelin steel-belted radials.
I can't tell you how many people would flag us down at stop signs, and tell us our tires were low!
A car with A/C? I didn't get my first car with air until 1990! (and, I started driving in 1974).
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My first car was a used '71 Dodge Charger that had bias ply tires. When it was time for new rubber, I looked in the owner's manual and it said that radial tires were not recommended. I was bummed. I called a Dodge dealer and asked a veteran salesman about it and he shrugged it off. He joked that 1971 must have been a bad year for tires.
I went ahead and bought a set of radials. Wow... what a difference. Hadn't thought about that in a long time... thanks for the memory.
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
That was because some models weren't equipped with anti-sway bars. When my wife got her 74' Charger the salesman had to look under the car before he would sell them to me. Something about radials flexing in the sidewall and the car leaning too much if you didn't have a sway bar.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
2010 328i Convertible in Palm Springs
3.0 Liter Power folding top.
10,000 miles
Atlantic blue
perfect condition
Premium Package
Sport package
Steptronic Trans
Comfort access
Heated seats
ipod
Navigation
Logic 7 sound with sat.
MSRP was $56,525 six months ago. Paid $51,200
What should we expect to get for trade in at a dealer?
Thanks