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Comments
Like instead of huge rebates and dealer incentives... how about a free CD Changer and Manintinence and a year of warranty extension for people who buy their cars after, say, July?
Instead of $1,500 cash back on, say, an Avalon, why not throw in some goodies like that?
I think it'd firm up residual values...
Bill
1000 over on a Suburban sounds OK to me but I am sure you could do better.
Feel free to shop a couple dealerships if you don't think the price is right. Still do give your original salesperson a shot to match the deal.
I hope this helps
Terry.
With a $1000 rebate, I'd be shooting for $700-1000 under invoice.
1. Broken side mirror
2. There's a leak somewhere that lets water into the passenger side floor area. We've tried to get it fixed, but it didn't stay fixed for long. The floor on that side has been damp on and off for the last year or so (Washington State gets a lot of rain).
3. The power windows don't work very well, squeaking/grinding when they open or close.
4. The car has various rattles and squeaks, though none of them seem unusual for a 10-year old car.
5. The idle is rough, and the brakes are somewhat mushy (might need some brake work).
One dealer looked at it, but I was surprised at how poor his inspection was. I could have evaluated a used car better than he did. It was almost as if he didn't really care about anything other than the basic specs of the car and its mileage. This was after we'd negotiated a deal on the new car.
I wasn't sure if I should tell him the problems with the car, since he didn't even bother to ask. He offered $1600, which I declined.
Any feedback? What is a fair trade-in price for the car? I know I could get more by selling it privately, but I'm willing to take a loss in order to avoid the hassle.
~Andy
And, for crying out loud...get your brakes checked!
If the dealer thinks the car would bring $2000 at dealer auction he must spend $100 prep and delivery to the action, then $250 sale fee. if he booked it in at $1600 + 300 fees = 1900. Leaving the dealer with $100 sale profit...
Hope this helped in explaining how a dealer arrives at a wholesale price on a trade like yours.
Rich
Terry.
I could be incorrect......But I think you are being stalled....
I hope this help's
Terry.
Rich
Please excuse this swerve in direction, but I expect to order an '01' Silverado/Sierra soon and my big question is this: For the truck equipped with my preferences I've seen reported in other threads delivery times as long as six months. What happens to the deal made if the TPW date isn't established before the next model year begins production? When fleet managers are asked this I get conflicting answers. One says price is guaranteed, another says no way, "Re-Order", "New Price". Is there some established procedure? What are the alternatives? Thanks.
Dave
Duramax production ended 3/2/01
2002 production starts 6/18/01
Go to www.wheels.com
They have all the info you need.
- Dave
Terry.
Prevailing wisdom seems to be that bringing up holdback would be about as good an idea as asking God for booze and hookers.
After recently finding out that Mercedes will be making the CLK 55 in a cabriolet model, I'd like to order one of them. Instead of getting on the local dealership's waiting list, would I be better off to check elsewhere? If so, where? Is it true that Mercedes dealers are forbidden from selling cars to customers out of their region? If so, does this apply to used cars as well as new ones? I'm confused and seem to always get the runaround and conflicting stories from the local dealers. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a friend in New Orleans...who was trying to purchase a CLK like mine, and he couldn't get any deal ..you know the routine..over sticker, hard to get, nobody has them..etc, ---- Well, after a few short times on the Net...he found some in Minnosota...and guess what --- they had 3 of them on the ground ....and with a nice 5% discount -- they were more than happy to ship it to him....
It's like the E320's....most dealers...if you take the time and shop --- will be than happy to discount them 7-9%..and pay for the shipping...because, the new ones are coming out......See, If I had my way...I just would have found him one at the auction -- and saved him another $10,000+ .......the story, about losing allocation in the states...is just that ..a story
I hope this helps....
Terry.
But the best thing to do, is just go to the Benz site.....and find the dealers that are in Indiana, Wisconsin, PA, ..etc...most have toll free numbers..or when you call..ask them for one...
My friend spent about $20 bucks in long distance... and saved himself about $4,000 and got the vehicle he wanted....that's not a bad deal....But, to answer your question about-- out of territory...I have found Benz's in Boulder..Kansas city..Waycroft ...etc... --- and when they have to sell them ....they are like any other vehicle --- they will cut them from the herd...
Terry.
One thing to try might be other highline delaerships in your area. Call the local BMW, Jag, Infiniti, or Lexus dealer and see if they have any real low milage trade-ins that retain most of the original factory warrenty.
This "out of zone" stuff...is just what it means.....Stuff ---
Terry.
Of course, since we're talking about a CLK 430 Cabrio, just go on the local dealer's waiting list if you really want the car. If you look real hard you'll either find a dealer who has one coming sooner--or is willing to lie about it.
Rich
That's true....if it's a hard to get...or the allocation supply will hold through out the year..... The CLK's Cabrio's will be one of those type vehicles .... thats for sure.
But, as rule.....most of them, will deal -- across lines - because of the the floor plan expense on the - Not so hard to get- ......
Terry.
Thanks in advance
jk
And you have a 4000.00 problem. Without a bunch of cash, you are out of luck. It's possible to roll some or perhaps all of this negitive equity into another car. Doing this is foolish in my opinion for then, you would be REALLY buried!
Advise...try to like your car.
Ejones, the best thing would be to keep the car for several more years and make any extra payments you can possibly afford to get your debt down. A possibility to get more out of it would be to sell it yourself, but you still won't get near what you owe on it. Please try to learn something from this...put a sizeable down payment down on your next car and certainly don't borrow more than the car's trade-in value.
I always wonder why people do that. They'll buy a car with little or nothing down, sometimes rolling negative equity. A year later, they decide that they no longer like that car and want something different.
Worse yet, many times, they want to "downsize" and have lower payments at the same time!!
Of course, I've done lots of foolish things too...
Leo
For example, I'll read posts where people say "...after a 45-minute test drive, I knew I had to have the car." Are they serious? I don't think I've ever taken a car out for more than 10-15 minutes. Yet, when the salesman sends us out he'll sometimes make a joke like, "Remember, we close at 6:00" (when it's 4:30). How long do you expect a test drive to take? Does it differ if the driver is out alone or if you come along? What about if it's the 2nd or 3rd time because the buyer is getting close to closing the deal? How hard do you expect a car to be driven? I mean, I like sporty cars, but I'm hesitant to really throw the car around on a test drive, especially if there's a salesman stuffed in the back. Inquiring minds want to know...
Just wondering if anyone else has done this. I, of course, would give the dealership a "heads up" on what I was doing though.
Thanks!
RW beat me to it. I'd see if youcan use it as a "pass-through" and get the tax advantage to boot!
It does pay to ask!
Bill
And I figured out the difference in tax...$75.
It was a thought. $75 it might not be worth the aggravation... you never know. I doubt the dealer will have a problem with it.
I'd ask the dealer if you can do it, then ask the person buying your car. If it's a late model, the dealer can also offer financing, warranties, etc.
OTOH, some dealers wont sell a used car they havent inspected....
Bill
Leo
This type of ad is usually a sign to avoid the dealership.
Rich
Pass. You'll see $2,995 "Trade Allowance margin" stickers on every car on their lot.
Even buying from a store like that simply gives those clowns positive reinforcement.
Bill
At what point my signature becomes legally binding? Remember, that I am not talking about loan/lease contract.
1)By breaking up the deal, tiring the deal to get the buyer's legally binding agreement to PURCHASE the car after ONLY one piece of the transaction: the price of the vehicle - has been agreed to.
2)By filling the order with whatever undesirable lemon that fits the vehicle description on the buyer's order that happens to be on the lot.
A few simple tactics to even the playing field.
If engaging in face-to-face negotiations (by far the worst way for most if not everyone in negotiating with a car dealer in the age of email and faxes)
DON'T make offers through buyer's orders or any SIGNED agreement. Make offers in the only way that the dealer will initially commit to an offer - verbally. If the car sales rep says he needs your signature before "submitting" the deal, understand the dealer is saying that he EXPECTS to take you for a sucker.
The dealer knows that when he makes a verbal offer, like the proverbial "low-ball," through an unauthorized agent, his offer has utterly no legal binding.
Understand negotiations are all about EXPECTATIONS.
If you're dumb enough to play this game -patiently skewed in favor of the dealer, overcoming this perfectly reasonable expectation of the dealer to obtain the same outcome when a mutually beneficial business agreement is the expectation of both sides
- is a contradiction in terms.
Counter an unenforceable offer with an unenforceable counter-offer.
And after coming to an agreement on price,
DON'T sign the buyer's order AS WRITTEN.
Amend it by adding the simple phrases
1)contingent upon the vehicle passing my final inspection to be signified by me in the act of driving the vehicle off the lot.
2) contingent upon my approval of all other aspects of the financial transaction to be signified by me in the act of driving the vehicle off the lot.
If the dealer is not amenable to this, understand only one party can be in control of the transaction.
If you want it to be you, walk.
At the point short of driving the car off the lot, if FOR ANY REASON the deal and/OR car does not measure up to your satisfaction, you now have the option of walking without losing your down payment, credit rating, etc, or the dealer, should he be so inclined, having legal recourse.
And when do you sign a title? Or you mean your trade-in title?