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Comments
Drive one. I think you'll like it.
1. When they ask to take the truck to their mechanic for inspection, do I go with them? Ask them to leave their car with me? Copy their license? Just afraid I might never see my truck again.
2. What sort of payment do I accept? Is it inconsiderate to demand a specific type of payment?
Thanks for all the help guys(and girls?)!
Every buyer I've sold to has expected to pay cash. Some have left a check as a deposit (car stays with me) while they go to the bank, etc.; but there's no offense given/taken about exchanging the long green.
You'll want to be prepared with a title, if you need that in your state, and a simple bill of sale - so your buyer can title the car.
Not directly related, but a buddy of mine was selling his motorcycle (Suzuki GSX-R 750) a while back and two guys showed up after calling about the ad and asking a few questions.
The guy who was the buyer got on the bike, fired it up as the seller and buyer (and his buddy) were talking. The guy was going to take it around the block.
After the guy didn't come back for a few minutes, the "buddy" showed the seller his gun and explained that if he called the cops right away, they'd come back and kill him. He waited an hour to call.
Granted, this is in the Philly area, but it could happen anywhere. Have a friend or relative with you, don't let your truck out of your sight until you have the money and preferably, meet in a common area, like a fast food restaurant.
as far as secuirty - maybe I'll fib and say I'm a police detective!
ps - asking $18,500 so would like but be a bit nervous w/ this amount of green in my pocket!
With multi-$K on the table, I'd wanna finish the sale at a bank - theirs or mine - and have a bank check. Having the title to fill out, a bill of sale for the buyer (just simple - VIN#, cash as-is sale, date), and a receipt for the buyer to sign (simple, again) is how I'd go. In the low likelyhood the buyer gets creamed on thwe way home, you don't wanna have to get your insurance co. involved.
Thanks anyway.
1) We don't have all the facts - the other side of the story, since I refuse to go on this guy's word that he acted like an angel, plus, the timeline and story are his version only.
2) Each time I try to look at it from both sides of the service desk, I get jumped on - I'm not interested in dealing with either aspect....
When I got my G20t stolen, I got enough from the insurance company to step up to a J30, same year, half the miles. Course, I missed the manny tranny.
Loyalty goes both ways.
As far as a Bill Of Sale, you can get them at any office supply store (Staples, Office Depot, etc). Make sure it is filled out completely with name/address/phone of both parties, year/make/model/VIN of the car, and odometer mileage. And very important, the words "Vehicle sold AS IS with no implied or express warranty" are included in clear view. This protects you from the buyer coming back and saying something was broken and you should pay for it.
kcram
Host
Smart Shopper and FWI Message Boards
Also here's a nice little sentence that can be also used: ** Buyer Understands and Agree's, that there is nothing owed and nothing promised. **
X ___________________
Terry.
My disclosure mentioned "no warranty or repairs promised"..."no additional merchandise promised"..."sale is final"...."as-is"..etc - his dad called in a huff because I wouldn't take the bike back - AFTER it had been dropped. I told him to have his lawyer call my lawyer, and gave my boss a copy of the bill of sale. Never heard from him again.
He wanted to test drive the Ferrari we had on display. I told him no.
He was insulted that we don't allow test drives on cars like that. Wanted to know how we could stay in business.
Do any of you dealers think it's feasible for me to have my local VW dealer locate the car I want, have it brought to the dealership, and sell it to me for at or below invoice cost? My reasoning is that the dealership should be able to sell me the car even at $500 below invoice and still make their 2% dealer holdback (around $375 in this case). Ultimately I would like to keep my purchase price at or below invoice cost.
Also, they do have a GL 2.0L 4-speed automatic that I would consider purchasing if they can't locate the GL 1.8T manual that I really want. Would it be fair for me to tell them I will pay either invoice cost for the GL 1.8T that I want (they would make $500 + $375 holdback), or $500 below invoice for a GL 4-speed automatic that they have in stock (they would make around $375 for holdback)? Or am I asking too low??
Thanks in advance for helping a first-time new car buyer
You want them to go to another dealer to get your car (shouldn't be a big problem), work out an exchange with that dealer, and then haul it back for you, etc. Keep in mind that the original dealer is the one that gets the holdback. So if your Jetta comes from a dealer across town, THEY are the ones that get the holdback...not the dealer you are dealing with. (hope that makes sense). At least, that's the way it's been explained to me....by several dealers.
That's the reason that holdback is really never discussed or entered into the equation with a buyer. It's back-end money, not front-end money -- the dealer only sees it quarterly. So if a dealer would rebate or give up some of the holdback, they are actually out money that they don't even have yet.
If you can find a dealer willing to rebate you their holdback or dealer incentive money, then that's great...but I'd be willing to be there are very, very few dealers that will do that.
I got caught by a guy who likes to test drive lower end exotics and sports cars the other day. Took him out in a Boxster, he started describing all the cars he's test driven recently...had him take a left, then another, then right into the parking lot.
You need to bear in mind that it's the prevailing market that determines what a dealer will be willing to sell a car for.
Many times a shopper will determine for themselves what is "fair". When they can't buy the car for that they are frustrated.
A dealer would be foolish to cheap sell a hot selling car that's in short supply.
Buyers will expect and demand these to continue forever as they forget who really pays for them.
But, what do I know...?
Another way automakers could facilitate this is to cut the supply (reduce production) and bring things more into balance.
Even in "better" times.
Nissan may be the best example of this.
And a big reason the rebates exist at all is to keep the factories running. Closing factories is more expensive in the long run than offering rebates or cheap financing.
Rebates are the lesser of two evils but it's still an evil and as Craig said, it will come back to haunt the automakers. Time will certainly tell.
Regards... Vikd
He said, "Gee, that's high!"
So I guess my offer wasn't that out of line afterall
Terry.
(This was posted earlier in the 'New or Used? Which do you think is more economical and Why? ' thread without a response)
Here's the $10 question
or maybe the $3000 question.
If I'm shopping for a late model used car, How much should I deduct for paintwork. Brentwoodvolvo poster gave an example where he took $3000 off of a late model Jaguar.
How about a 3 year old Honda with paintwork, or a 3 year old Taurus, or whatever. What would be the deduction (ballpark) ??
On your $29K Jauguar you took off $3000 or about 10 percent. Is that a good ballpark amount (10 %).
Will it reduce a 12K Toyota Camry by $1200 ? How do I bid this ??
I notice that looking at domestic used cars on new car lots that maybe 20 percent (or more) of the cars have had some paintwork. Maybe it's just a repainted bumper or a repainted door panel - whatever. How does this effect the price.
Also, There are all kind of paint jobs. From the $99 cheap job to the bet-the-farm 12 coats of primer and hand rubbed Primo paint job. Quality must have an effect. Can you say some words about that.
While I'm at it, I notice that a few new car dealers when they sell used cars prep them using a rotary buffer that puts very noticeable swirl marks on every used car on the lot. How does this effect the price.
Thanks for your advice.
Anyway, as soon as someone purchases my rig, I will order the BMW and wait 6-8wks for delivery(nothing out there is exactly how I want it). There are 4 dealerships in town, 2 of which I have already spoken with a saleman as my fiancee is about to order her 325i. How can I negotiate the best price on an order w/o being rude and being fair. Will salesmen deal a little more if you mention you are ordering 2 cars? Keep in mind, Houston is big and don't want to spend all day driving from lot to lot.
My friend who used to sell Mercedes(cutthroat guy), suggested I fax all dealerships a letter indicating what I want and some low figure what I'd be willing to pay(like 5% over invoice). Tell them the first to respond will receive a downpayment immediately. Sounds good but also feel like I'd be backstabbing the 2 salesmen I've already been talking with(even though one did piss me off).
I also fear that if I use the above method that they'll just try and make up for the profit loss with the finance guy. Guess I'll get preapproved at a bank/CU beforehand.
Finally, if one of them tries and sticks me w/ dealer prep fees, ad fees, etc.. should I just walk away or what? - I've heard these are usually bogus add-ons.
Thanks in advance!
GODBLESS OUR TROOPS!
1. Corolla
2. Protege
3. Sentra
4. Lancer
Went to see the insurance man this morning and all these cars will lower my insurance rate by about $70./year after we put our teenager on the other car.
Am leaning toward getting the Corolla, as I've had good luck with the 2 I've owned.
When figuring my OTD price, is 3% to 4% profit over invoice a fair place to start? Any help here would be appreciated.
The Sandman :-)
What's TCO?
I just want to be fair to the salesman and figured the 3% to 4% would make everyone happy. I know I still have to add on TTL after that, but I want to enjoy this experience and not have any buyers remorse!
The Sandman :-)