Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Maybe a side of moose, a few caribou steaks and some silvers/halibut would help ice the down payment?
And send me some snow; durn ski hill here still hasn't opened.
Steve, Host
I'll just get him for a tune up on the Explorer or something for a little *extra* on the down, he seems like an honest hard working guy.....typical alaskan. Guess we live by different rules up here.
Mark
That's why so many car deals turn ugly - people are still under the belief that you can get a car for so far under invoice. There's holdback, sure, if the dealer wants to give it up, but that's only about $600.
In theory, you're saying that on a vehicle with an MSRP of $20K, the guy should be able to buy it for $11,500/12,000?
That's a really mean lowball to put a nice guy out running on!
The salesman wrote me that it was a $3500 rebate even though the webpage said $4500. Do they have some play on the rebate?
I train salespeople and one of the first things I tell them is that I don't want any stories thrown around - if you're that weak, either get some more training or find another line of work.
Duncan
Our 99 Ram's steering gear box is leaking like crazy.....leaving puddles. Then the snowmobile we have up for sale refuses to start, so its at the dealer.....probably going to cost a bit to get it fixed. To top all that off my hubby called me a bit ago to say we wouldn't be getting a paycheck from his logging job this week cause the guy's semi broke down and he can't haul any loads (hubby gets paid when the guy hauls the trees he's cut to the mill). I'm afraid to ask what's next.
BTW, on the invoice, the L.A. Assessment fee is only listed in the Invoice column. In the MSRP column, the L.A. Assessment fee is listed as $0.
Thanks!
Anyways, my question is about the difference between buying a used car from a private owner vs buying from a dealer. Would I save on sales tax by buying from a private owner? I checked the DMV site, and it says that when I register the vehicle I will have to pay a use tax. If I were to buy from a dealer, do I pay the use tax and a sales tax? Or are they the same thing? I'm confused. I'm looking to buy a used car for about $25,000. Sales tax is 8.25%, which equals $2,062. If I can save that much by buying from a private owner, that's alot. I'm in California, btw.
If you are buying a $25,000 used car in CA and your sales tax is 8.25% the amount, as you state, is $2062.50.
If you buy from a dealer, he will charge you this sales tax amount and it will be listed as such in your agreement documents. Case closed and the dealer will handle the paperwork with the State and DMV.
If you buy the same price vehicle from a private party, call it use tax or sales tax, the DMV will collect this exact same amount from you when you go down there to register the vehicle and transfer title to your name. In a private party deal, you as the new owner are responsible in CA for doing this.
You can go to AAA if you are a member; the lines are a LOT shorter and you don't need an appointment.
The Fudge Factor comes in When Private Parties Collude or when the new owner, on their own, decide to "short" the State by claiming that the sales price was...say...$20,000 and back up this phony sales price with a phony bill of sale.
Then the sales or use tax to be collected at the DMV would be $1,650 - or about $412 less than they should collect.
Of course, the DMV is on to this ruse and will fry your butt during their annual audits if you get unluckly. I do believe it's a felony, and, IMO, hardly worth it to save a few bucks but that never stops The Clever Ones from trying it.
Besides - Arnold needs your money!
what hingram posted was hard to read. Did it mean the dealer was willing to sell at invoice and hingram gets the rebate too? Or was the selling price invoice including the rebate already?
They say the invoice is 18245. Edmunds says the invoice is 17500. The dealer's website says the rebate is $4500. The email I got said $3500. I'll call the salesman tomorrow and find out the 411. Yes, I imagine they will let it go at invoice. It's just a matter of which invoice.
You've heard of equipped, not stripped. Well, this unit is stripped.
That fee is a legit...its the ad fee charged the dealer by mazda. Here in Connecticut they call it the hartford assestment. If you worry about "out the door pricing" then those pesky fees that the mfg charges the dealer become a mute point.
im a nissan sales consultant, and possibly going back to a honda store as a sales manager soon...dont tell my boss yet...THAT deal still needs some kneading! ;-)
ive been selling cars for 4 years, and have experience with domestics and imports both.
i can give accurate information on regional questions in the midwest (kentucky, indiana, illinois, ohio, michigan, etc...
let me know if i can help.
Proud owne of a used 02 SE.
It's a tough choice. I was looking forward to the GT-R, but it looks like there have been significant delays, and it won't appear until the 2007 Tokyo auto show.
Anyone else wanna try the lease vs buy argument?? *shaking fist*
prodigalsun...
i think, as long as nissan resists using rebates, that the new maxima will be AT LEAST as good in resale.
jeff...
you REALLY want me to get started?!?! ;-)
scanty again...
the question is this:
do you want 2 seats or 4? with 4 seats (g35), you get a more usable daily driver. if its as a toy or a 2nd/3rd car, id go with the Z.
the Z also is more exclusive and has better name recognition.
;-)
Bowke- For the love of God by all that's holy in this season NO. signed the Burning Bush ( hate to have to pull out the big guns but whatever it takes to stop this one again).:-)
regards,
kyfdx
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I am looking at buying a new 04 Honda Accord. I am using the internet email method. But for my trade I actually took my trade to 4 area dealerships and asked them what the actual cash value would be. I told them that I am looking to buy within the end of the week but first I wanted to get an acurate idea about the price of my trade. I figure it might help me when it comes time to negotiate. Anyways, back to my question. Is Edmunds acurate when trying to figure out a good trade in value that a dealer might give you? So far the best offer I have is about 1k under Edmunds trade in value for my 01 Honda Civic. The car is in great shape. And way under miles. Thanks in advance!
"What the book says" ( what's shown on Edmunds) is cannon fodder, seriously. What counts is what a car realistically brings in a given area.
Bear in mind that no book or website can buy a car - it takes a human and a checkbook - whether that checkbook is personal or dealer property.
Put a sign on it, park in a heavy traffic area over the weekend - like a mall parking lot at Xmas!
If you do go private, might want to wait until January to spend $$$ on a newspaper ad and an online ad (I've had great luck with autotrader.com and car.com) when people get their heads out of the holidays.
Good luck!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well, not we have a rebate, supposedly, $4,500, as the person who posted says. That tells me, with the rebate, they ought to be at least $3k back of invoice, if not further. They shouldn't see any of the rebate on the vehicle if its a consumer rebate, it should flow to the customer.
$20k msrp - $18,500 invoice.
lets say we cut it in half, buy for $19,250.
now, we have a $4,500 consumer rebate (I didn't research it so I'm not sure)... where are we are?
$14,750. Thats $3,750 back of invoice. Cool? Not trying to steal the car, nor rape the dealer, etc... most of the savings flow comes from the manufacturer on this typical vehicle.
dont get me wrong, nothing wrong with the G...i would just go for the Z first.
sounds to me like youve already made up your mind, so unless you ask, im out of it.