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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    I have a '93 Villager with 136K on it. I have owned it for 1 1/2 years, bought from 2nd owner at 117K. I have had 20K of pleasant nearly trouble free driving and my wife and I both like the car very much and want to keep it as long as possible. Right now I have 3 problems:

    1 - Shortly after buying I began hearing a loud exhaust noise and replacing the muffler did not help. By now the noise is quite loud and is annoying my wife. I have since read all of the previous postings regarding the exhaust manifold problem. I have had 3 estimates of $1000 or more, with all of them hesitant to do the work at all, though all were familiar with the problem. Today I had another mechanic look at it and he told me there are no bolts left on the manifold and one bolt missing from the head underneath. He said he will try to do the job without replacing the studs and this will cost considerably less - he said $300 max. When I asked him if this could cause a repeat problem within a year or so, he said he doesn't know. My wife and I really like this van and want to keep it as long as possible. Should I insist on replacing the studs as well? Will it help if he replaces the old bolts with heavier duty bolts?
    2- About 10K miles ago I began hearing a knocking noise right under my foot coming from the front end when accelerating from a stop and going over certain types of bumps on the road. Since then I have replaced the front struts (and paid an extra $150 to replace the strut bearings) and had the front end examined by 4 different mechanics. They all insisted there is nothing at all wrong, except 1 said it was a ball joint, but the next 1 said it is fine. I am at a loss. They all confirm hearing the noise but no one can find the problem. Anyone have any ideas?
    3- The front brake rotors were replaced about 50K ago and since then ground twice to alleviate shuddering. Nevertheless there has been a constant squeak and intermittent grinding noises coming from the wheels and about 10K ago the wheels emit a higher pitched squeak after 10 min. or so of driving only between 15 - 40 mph. Does anyone have any ideas about what this might be? The mechanics have offered no answer as of yet.
    Sorry about the length of the message. I have been hoping to solve these problems on my own with no success, so I elected to do 1 posting as opposed to 3 separate. Thank you for any help you could offer.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Until someone knowledgeable pops in here, you guys may want to visit Carl Haines' or Steve Cutchen's page and see if anything there helps.



    Steve

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  • okmomokmom Member Posts: 37
    The display on the radio/cd/cassette/clock on our 2000 Quest disappeared.
    Other than that everything else works perfectly.
    We are wondering it might be cheaper to get the radio/cd/cassette unit w/ free installation at the local electronic shop.(~$150)
    Can Any units that sell at the electronic shops works on my Quest? Ours has the control on the wheel....
    Thanks
  • rljanrljan Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Quest that has a noise that is driving me crazy. The noise is coming from the lower windshield area and begins anywhere from 60 mph to 75 mph (especially if there is a head wind). It sounds like a teapot boiling or air squealing out of a balloon. Any suggestions on what might be causing it or how to fix it would be greatly appreciated, it's torture on a long drive.
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    The radio display may be repaiable. Try checking with a local car stereo installation place, they may know how to get it fixed.

    Or, you may have to send the unit in to the manufacturer to get it fixed. It wouldn' hurt to check with you dealer's service department too.

    Try searching back a while in this topic, if you can't find anything here try searching the VillagerQuest archives at groups.yahoo.com. I know I have read of someone describing how they got this fixed, I just don't remember the specifics.

    Good luck.

    Dave
  • cookie22cookie22 Member Posts: 73
    From what I have read on this forum ,the radio display going out is a common problem. I had the unit replaced on my 99 villager while it was still under warrenty for this problem.
  • jumboloadjumboload Member Posts: 1
    Problems noted after 48K:
    1. Horn doesn't blow when securing vehicle with key fab.
    2. Stereo doesn't display stations. Burned out led display.
    3. Brake light kept coming on. Have to keep brake fluid high to keep light off.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,435
    the problem (usually) is loose connections. I had a radio shop fix mine (make sure it is a quality repair operation - the one I used did repairs for the dealer). They needed to re-solder the connections, and now it works fine. Much cheaper than a new factory unit.

    Depending which set up you have, getting an after market replacement can be problematic. You have to worry about steering wheel radio controls, rear jacks, CD changer, etc. Probably not as much of an issue with the base unit.

    Asthetically, the factory unit will look much cleaner than another brand. But get what you want.

    The radio shop can give you real options (repair vs. replace), but the repair charge should run about $100 - $150, depending on location.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    Your remote should be programmable to enable or disable the horn when securing the vehicle. I actually disabled mine as I didn't like the horn honking when I secured my Villager.

    If you brake fluid is low, your pads are probably wearing. The Villager/Quest is a heavy vehicle and the pads do wear faster than on lighter vehicles (at least mine do). Make certain that your brake pads are still in good shape when you top up the fluid.
  • mdrabkinmdrabkin Member Posts: 3
    Like many Quest owners, I experienced the radio display and the wiper swipe problems. The radio has been replaced twice by the dealer. The first replacement lasted about 3 days until the display went out again. The second is now into its 5th month; I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
    (Total waiting time for both units: about 5 months!)

    Still struggling with the wipers, though. The combination switch was replaced 11 months ago, while the van was still under warranty, but a couple of months ago the gremlins were back. The nature of the problem is intermittent: some days the wipers activate by themselves almost every time I use a turn signal, while other days everything is fine.

    The dealer keeps telling me that they have to have it happening consistenlty in order for them to even start troubleshooting it. I have the following questions for the folks who have successfully repaired this wiper swipe problem in their Quests (mine is a '99 SE, by the way):
    1) Have you had the combination switch replaced more than once in the same vehicle?
    2) Was the cause of the problem ever attributed to anything other than the combo switch?

    Appreciate any advice.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    No to both questions, Mdrabkin. My replacement still works fine. ('99 GXE).

    Steve
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  • cooper99cooper99 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I have a 99 Quest, and the right head light does not operate, I have checked the fuses, replaced the lamp, and checked the relacement lamp to make sure it was good.

    My right headlight still does not operate. Any suggestions on what I should check next? The owner manual mentions checking a fuselink if the fuse is good and the device still does not operate, can anyone tell me what fuselink is and where it is located on the Quest.

    Thanks
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My trouble shooting guide says to check the bulb (ok, check that one off!), then check the 15A fuse (No. 36 located in fuse and fusible link box under hood on driver's side). Verify battery voltage is present at terminal 5 of headlamp control unit. Then check grounds at both lamps and the combination switch.

    Zilch mentioned about a fusible link in the lamp checklist (they do exist naturally)....

    Steve
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  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    Try wiggling the wires that come out of the headlight housing while the lights are switched on. If it lights up, you likely have a bad socket for the bulb. This is a common issue with '99 Villagers. The dealer replaced both of my headlight sockets under warranty.
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    Getting a creaking sound from the driver side when I go over bumps at slow speed. The radio has to be off to hear the noise. Van has 46k. I don't get excessive bounce from the shocks. I'm assumming the shocks are original. Anyone have any ideas? What is the life expectancy of shocks for these vans.
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    You may want to check the bushings on your front anti-sway bar. This has been a source of strange low speed creaking sounds in the Villager/Quest.
  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    Thanks for response. Forgive my ignorance with anti-sway bar, do you lube it, replace the bushings or does the bar need to be replaced. If a anti-sway needs to be replaced what is an estimated cost for having the job done. I'm not exactly mechanically proficient.
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    My 2001 Quest SE had this problem after about 7500 miles. The dealer relaced and lubed the bushings and that cured the problem.....for now.
  • cooper99cooper99 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Steve and Kymike,

    Wiggling the headlight cable and pushing firmly on the socket worked. The light is now functioning without any problem. I even removed the cable, moved it in different directions, put the socket back onto the bulb, and it still works.

    Thanks so much.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I think Kymike's practical advice was much better than the stuff quoted from my manual :-) Glad to hear it's working.

    I just did an oil & filter change and reglued my driver's side mirror for the 3rd time (hedge busted the glue joint this time ).

    If I can get past another oil change I'm gonna start hinting that mine is reliable (at 73,000 miles now).

    Steve
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  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    If the "wiggle trick" worked, it just means that you have a bad connection or short in the wiring. If you are still under warranty, I would suggest having the dealer look at it to see if the wiring is about to go. If not, you can take your chances, but I still would have it fixed before it goes out again when it can inconvenience you the most.

    The "wiggle trick" was a temporary fix for me as well, but the intermittent problem of going out continued.

    Best of luck.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It sounds like it's that time again - getting the metalic "warning" noise from the front pads. 22,000 miles on this offbrand set.

    Is it a given that I need to replace the rotors too (they were resurfaced once before)?

    Everyone still liking the Raybestos pads vs the OEM ones (the Bendix ones sound like they create a lot of dust)?

    Thanks!

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    No experience with the Raybestos pads, I replaced mine with OEM Nissan. From what I've heard online they are good too.

    As far as resurfacing the rotors, you probably will have to replace them, but maybe not. If you take it in the shop should be able to mike them and tell if they can be turned again. If they didn't go too nuts last time you may be OK.

    Dave
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Thanks Dave - they only seem to squeal when my wife drives it (worked fine for me this evening). I think I'll eyeball the pads tomorrow and then think about getting parts or heading to the dealer. Would you do yours again?

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    If I had it to do over again, I'd try the Raybestos pads. The Nissan pads are good, they are quiet and wear well, but I think some more stopping power would be good. IIRC, someone on the Villagerquest list liked the Raybestos pads for better stopping.

    I replaced my rotors with new Nissan ones when I did it. Could have had them turned, but I've had bad luck with that in the past. Next time I need to do the brakes (if we still have the van) I will take the old rotors to a machine shop or auto parts store & have them turned.

    Dave
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    dhoff - If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the OEM disks and pads? Are the Raybestos components cheaper?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Now that I've flopped one of the front wheels off to eyeball stuff, I see there's a whole lot of brake dust in there. Maybe that's causing the squealing I'm hearing. The disk looks pretty smooth with the eyeball test :-). Maybe I can get by with some more deferred maintenance, at least until the brake light comes on again, (or until my wife makes the appointment at Midas for me, LOL).

    Steve
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  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    Steve - The nice thing about the 16 inch alloys that came with my 2001 SE is that the eyeball test can be done without removing the wheel. Aren't you jealous? :-)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    But the rubber for your van costs more! I'm more jealous of your opening hatch window ;-)

    btw, I didn't remove my pads, but I crammed my dial caliper in there as best I could and it looks like I have ~5mm of pad left, or almost 50%.

    Here's hoping my hosing the brake dust out quiets it down.

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Dust will make them squeal! Don't worry about it until you hear the metal squeaker thing.

    Corsicachevy, I ordered my brake rotors and pads online from Courtesy Nissan. I don't remember how much it was, but if you go to their website & poke around a bit, you can get the prices. I think the rotors were about $75 each, and the pads about $45, but that's jsut ballpark.

    Dave
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Thanks Dave, I'm gonna let them ride for a while. I wish I knew what brand they were -- dealer put them on but they're definitely not OEM's, and definitely dusty. We went lots more miles on the first set of pads, but that was before the van turned into a daily commuter with more stop and go driving.

    Steve
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  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    My '99 Estate has about 35,000 mile on it. For those who have put a lot of mileage on their Villagers, when did you change out shocks / struts? Are there any good options for aftermarket that will outperform factory parts? I think that the ride is just a little bit "cushy" and I would like to have a firmer ride (not certain if my wife would agree).

    I will admit that I put Midas shocks on my previous Villager at about 75,000 miles. They were cheap and worked about as well as the factory shocks.
  • guillguill Member Posts: 94
    Mike, I just had new Monroe Sensatrac struts/shocks installed on my 99 Quest at SEARS for $264. Price included a sale and a 10% off coupon. My Quest has 48K miles and the OEM struts/shocks seemed too "cushy" (read sloppy) also. These Monroes are fantastic, the ride has firmed up, yet not harsh at all, realy improved the control and eliminated the excessive bouncing and swaying.
  • guillguill Member Posts: 94
    Forgot to mention, Monroes have lifetime guarentee parts and labor.
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    Hi, anyone here know if a rear exhaust manifold for a '94 Quest will work on a '93 Villager?
  • cchalversoncchalverson Member Posts: 17
    Mike, I can recommend the Gabriel struts. Monroe Sensatracs were available at O'Reillys and AutoZone had the Gabriel Gas Ryders both brands similar with lifetime warranty, but the AutoZone is closer for me and therefore I do more business with them. On the wife's 97 Quest with 60,000+ miles the left strut mount and bearing failed during a particular brutal highway trip back to the Buffalo area. Since I had to replace the left mount and bearing anyway I went ahead and put the new Gabriel Gas Ryder struts on and they are wonderful! It isn't a particularly difficult repair so I did it myself, but as a practical matter as guill mentioned the repair shops will generally have a promotion on the labor and/or parts. In fact the last time I stopped by one of the Monroe shops Monroe had a promotion for a $75 shop credit with the purchase/installation of their struts and shocks. As long as yours haven't failed yet it seems that you have the luxury of shopping around and getting it done at your convenience and the best price. Check a manual to be sure, but I think I'm remembering that it suggests that the mounts should be replaced if the struts are replaced and then the front end alignment needs to be checked upon completion. As always one thing can lead to another; good luck!
  • guillguill Member Posts: 94
    I don't see any reason why it wouldn't fit. No mechanical differences between the Villager/Quest engines. The only concern might be additional emissions equipment on the 94 that the 93 might not have, what I'm refering to is emissions gear that connects directly to the exhaust manifold like the O2 sensor on my Civic. If the manifold isn't too much I'd give it a shot.
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    Guill-
    Thanks for the response. I ordered the manifold for the '93 Villager and they sent me one for a '94 Quest. They didn't tell me this, I inspected the part and that's what the tag said. I was concerned since the Haynes manual for the '93 Villager says the '94 and later models:
    1 - have a pipe connecting the front and rear manifolds, and
    2 - like you said have additional emissions gear attached.
    I did consult the mechanic who will be doing the work and he checked the part numbers and they both matched, so I'm going to let him try it. Thanks again.
  • cduongcduong Member Posts: 70
    I know this has been discussed before. What are possible causes and solutions. Thanks for your help
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The most frequent cause, on the late model ones at least, is not closing the gas cap tightly (3+ clicks). I think the escaping fumes depressurize the fuel system triggering the light. Usually the light will reset by itself after driving 2 or 3 tanks if this was the cause.

    That's the "easy" one - I'll let others chip in the other possible causes since I'm in over my head as it is.

    Steve
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  • cchalversoncchalverson Member Posts: 17
    AutoZone in our market has some radio spots advertising to read the diagnosis code on "check engine light" issues. We took the wife's 97 Quest there and they got a P0400 EGR code, but cross-referencing against the www.alldata.com technical service bulletins we found that indeed it was a cracked BPT hose just down from the EGR valve. Apparently, the 97 Quest has a problem with the BPT hose per a TSB issued 6/98.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Oh yeah, the ones here will do a free diagnostic of CELs. Nice service.

    Steve
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  • upset1upset1 Member Posts: 1
    I am completely frustrated! Since purchasing my new 2001 Villager Estate last October, the vehicle has been vibrating at highway speeds. You can feel and see it in the steering wheel, floor and seats. Very annoying.

    The vehicle was in the second dealership's possession for over 1 month last November. The first dealership said the vibration was "normal". The second dealership sweared it was the tires. They switched my 16" Goodyear Eagle LS tires 3 times and rebalanced and rebalanced and rebalanced. They even took the vehicle over to a nearby Ford Dealership for a road-force test. The tires and wheels always balanced. The second dealer did admit that the vibration was "unacceptable", but the Regional Ford Rep was of no help. They even said that everything (suspension, etc) "measured within specs".

    I got tired of leaving my vehicle at the dealership and lived with the vibration for a year.

    The other day I finally decided to get new tires. I have seen much feedback and purchased Yokohama Avid Touring tires (noted for their smoothness and comfort level). Guess what! Vibration STILL there!

    Other than getting the alignment and shocks/struts checked by another shop, what else could be causing this annoying vibration/shimmy? I was ready to go out and buy my dream Honda Odyssey, but I don't want to lose my shirt over this problem vehicle.

    Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try an Advanced Search (linked on the left sidebar) for "vibration." You find a few dozen other posts about this issue, but few answers. If you've gone to the regional manager, I don't know how else you can escalate the issue unless you try for lemon law.

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Since you have replaced the tires, the vibration must be coming from some other part of the vehicle (unless you have had really bad luck getting a number of defective tires). It's probably something that rotates, which means it must be the wheels (out of round), drive axles, CV joints, or bearings. Could also be a tie rod end, or ball joint, or bad strut.

    Since you have eliminated the tires as a factor, it's a problem with the vehicle itself, and since it's still inder warranty, a dealer should fix it. Check in your owner's manual, there's probably a 800 number for Ford, and some kind of complaint resolution to follow. Definetly follow up on it, maybe start with your dealer again. See if he's willing to try something simple to start, like swapping all 4 wheels & tires from another Villager on his lot.

    Good luck to you, keep at it, and let us know what happens. Don't trade for a Odyssey yet (read some of the Odyssey boards here, you might get scared off anyway).

    Dave
  • bobk13bobk13 Member Posts: 1
    !996 VILLAGER, CHECKED ALL THE FUSES, EVERYTHING IS OKAY, WAITED FOR FROSTY MORNING, TO DOUBLE CHECK IF ANY RELAYS MAY BE BAD (REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER ON SAME CIRCUIT) IT WORKED. ARE THERE ANY OTHER THINGS I SHOULD CHECK BEFORE I GO TAKING ALL OF THE INSIDE PANEL OFF? I'M TRYING TO AVOID THIS, AND OF COURSE YES IT IS ALWAYS POSSIBLE THAT MY SON MAY HAVE SPILLED A SODA OR DROPPED A PENCIL INTO THE VENT.

    WHEN IT IS VERY QUIET YOU CAN HIT THE TOGGLE SWITCH THAT OPERATES THE FLOW FROM VENTS TO FLOOR. SO AT LEAST THAT WORKS.

    FOR MY NEXT CHALLENGE, DOOR LOCKS SEEM TO HESITATE, YOU PRESS EITHER THE KEY FOB OR THE ACTUAL DOOR POWER LOCK SWITCH AND MORE TIMES THAN NOT EITHER ONE OR SOMETIMES TWO OF THE LOCKS WILL HESITATE. THREE TIMES NOW THE LOCKS HAVE EITHER JUST UNLOCKED THEMSELVES OR UNLOCKED AS I WAS JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD. OTHER THAN THAT I HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT.

    PLEASE ADVISE: SHOULD I CHANGE THE WATER PUMP AT THE SCHEDULED 105K MILE TIMING BELT SERVICE OR JUST LEAVE IT ALONE?
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Your rear blower motor is not working because of a bad circuit board at the rear control. I've heard of this problem before. This is a pretty easy fix if you have a soldering iron and know how to use it. You can solder a heavy gage jumper wire around the bad spot on the circuit board.


    Try looking here:


    http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/


    Hope this helps.


    Dave

  • villvanvillvan Member Posts: 2
    Tires; what brand/model is the best deal? I live in the suburbs of New York City. I got a price of $51 for the original tires “General” that supposable came with the 98 villager for $51. How about Pirelli 400 someone told me that they are just the generic/base tires and aren’t even close to the real Pirellis’ . Also some said go with P215 70 R 15 but they aren’t the recommended 205 75 15. ?????????
  • cchalversoncchalverson Member Posts: 17
    The OE 205/75R15 Generals on the wife's 97 Quest were very disappointing. I called Continental/General customer service and they weren't willing to do anything so we went with a Goodyear Allegra replacement (similar to their Regatta 2) from the local wholesale club which has been outstanding. It came with a 75,000 mile warranty and now at 25,000+ miles looks like it will easily outperform its warranty! I'm shopping for some SUV replacement tires right now and have found the TireRack.com review and comments sections extremely helpful; good luck!
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    My father just put a set of Regatta2 tires on his Marquis (handling package 225/60/16). They are far superior to the stock Michelin XGTs that came on the car in terms of ride and road noise - although those Michelins wore like steel.
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