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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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1 - Shortly after buying I began hearing a loud exhaust noise and replacing the muffler did not help. By now the noise is quite loud and is annoying my wife. I have since read all of the previous postings regarding the exhaust manifold problem. I have had 3 estimates of $1000 or more, with all of them hesitant to do the work at all, though all were familiar with the problem. Today I had another mechanic look at it and he told me there are no bolts left on the manifold and one bolt missing from the head underneath. He said he will try to do the job without replacing the studs and this will cost considerably less - he said $300 max. When I asked him if this could cause a repeat problem within a year or so, he said he doesn't know. My wife and I really like this van and want to keep it as long as possible. Should I insist on replacing the studs as well? Will it help if he replaces the old bolts with heavier duty bolts?
2- About 10K miles ago I began hearing a knocking noise right under my foot coming from the front end when accelerating from a stop and going over certain types of bumps on the road. Since then I have replaced the front struts (and paid an extra $150 to replace the strut bearings) and had the front end examined by 4 different mechanics. They all insisted there is nothing at all wrong, except 1 said it was a ball joint, but the next 1 said it is fine. I am at a loss. They all confirm hearing the noise but no one can find the problem. Anyone have any ideas?
3- The front brake rotors were replaced about 50K ago and since then ground twice to alleviate shuddering. Nevertheless there has been a constant squeak and intermittent grinding noises coming from the wheels and about 10K ago the wheels emit a higher pitched squeak after 10 min. or so of driving only between 15 - 40 mph. Does anyone have any ideas about what this might be? The mechanics have offered no answer as of yet.
Sorry about the length of the message. I have been hoping to solve these problems on my own with no success, so I elected to do 1 posting as opposed to 3 separate. Thank you for any help you could offer.
Steve
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Other than that everything else works perfectly.
We are wondering it might be cheaper to get the radio/cd/cassette unit w/ free installation at the local electronic shop.(~$150)
Can Any units that sell at the electronic shops works on my Quest? Ours has the control on the wheel....
Thanks
Or, you may have to send the unit in to the manufacturer to get it fixed. It wouldn' hurt to check with you dealer's service department too.
Try searching back a while in this topic, if you can't find anything here try searching the VillagerQuest archives at groups.yahoo.com. I know I have read of someone describing how they got this fixed, I just don't remember the specifics.
Good luck.
Dave
1. Horn doesn't blow when securing vehicle with key fab.
2. Stereo doesn't display stations. Burned out led display.
3. Brake light kept coming on. Have to keep brake fluid high to keep light off.
Depending which set up you have, getting an after market replacement can be problematic. You have to worry about steering wheel radio controls, rear jacks, CD changer, etc. Probably not as much of an issue with the base unit.
Asthetically, the factory unit will look much cleaner than another brand. But get what you want.
The radio shop can give you real options (repair vs. replace), but the repair charge should run about $100 - $150, depending on location.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
If you brake fluid is low, your pads are probably wearing. The Villager/Quest is a heavy vehicle and the pads do wear faster than on lighter vehicles (at least mine do). Make certain that your brake pads are still in good shape when you top up the fluid.
(Total waiting time for both units: about 5 months!)
Still struggling with the wipers, though. The combination switch was replaced 11 months ago, while the van was still under warranty, but a couple of months ago the gremlins were back. The nature of the problem is intermittent: some days the wipers activate by themselves almost every time I use a turn signal, while other days everything is fine.
The dealer keeps telling me that they have to have it happening consistenlty in order for them to even start troubleshooting it. I have the following questions for the folks who have successfully repaired this wiper swipe problem in their Quests (mine is a '99 SE, by the way):
1) Have you had the combination switch replaced more than once in the same vehicle?
2) Was the cause of the problem ever attributed to anything other than the combo switch?
Appreciate any advice.
Steve
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I have a 99 Quest, and the right head light does not operate, I have checked the fuses, replaced the lamp, and checked the relacement lamp to make sure it was good.
My right headlight still does not operate. Any suggestions on what I should check next? The owner manual mentions checking a fuselink if the fuse is good and the device still does not operate, can anyone tell me what fuselink is and where it is located on the Quest.
Thanks
Zilch mentioned about a fusible link in the lamp checklist (they do exist naturally)....
Steve
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Wiggling the headlight cable and pushing firmly on the socket worked. The light is now functioning without any problem. I even removed the cable, moved it in different directions, put the socket back onto the bulb, and it still works.
Thanks so much.
I just did an oil & filter change and reglued my driver's side mirror for the 3rd time (hedge busted the glue joint this time ).
If I can get past another oil change I'm gonna start hinting that mine is reliable (at 73,000 miles now).
Steve
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The "wiggle trick" was a temporary fix for me as well, but the intermittent problem of going out continued.
Best of luck.
Is it a given that I need to replace the rotors too (they were resurfaced once before)?
Everyone still liking the Raybestos pads vs the OEM ones (the Bendix ones sound like they create a lot of dust)?
Thanks!
Steve
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As far as resurfacing the rotors, you probably will have to replace them, but maybe not. If you take it in the shop should be able to mike them and tell if they can be turned again. If they didn't go too nuts last time you may be OK.
Dave
Steve
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I replaced my rotors with new Nissan ones when I did it. Could have had them turned, but I've had bad luck with that in the past. Next time I need to do the brakes (if we still have the van) I will take the old rotors to a machine shop or auto parts store & have them turned.
Dave
Steve
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btw, I didn't remove my pads, but I crammed my dial caliper in there as best I could and it looks like I have ~5mm of pad left, or almost 50%.
Here's hoping my hosing the brake dust out quiets it down.
Steve
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Corsicachevy, I ordered my brake rotors and pads online from Courtesy Nissan. I don't remember how much it was, but if you go to their website & poke around a bit, you can get the prices. I think the rotors were about $75 each, and the pads about $45, but that's jsut ballpark.
Dave
Steve
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I will admit that I put Midas shocks on my previous Villager at about 75,000 miles. They were cheap and worked about as well as the factory shocks.
Thanks for the response. I ordered the manifold for the '93 Villager and they sent me one for a '94 Quest. They didn't tell me this, I inspected the part and that's what the tag said. I was concerned since the Haynes manual for the '93 Villager says the '94 and later models:
1 - have a pipe connecting the front and rear manifolds, and
2 - like you said have additional emissions gear attached.
I did consult the mechanic who will be doing the work and he checked the part numbers and they both matched, so I'm going to let him try it. Thanks again.
That's the "easy" one - I'll let others chip in the other possible causes since I'm in over my head as it is.
Steve
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Steve
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The vehicle was in the second dealership's possession for over 1 month last November. The first dealership said the vibration was "normal". The second dealership sweared it was the tires. They switched my 16" Goodyear Eagle LS tires 3 times and rebalanced and rebalanced and rebalanced. They even took the vehicle over to a nearby Ford Dealership for a road-force test. The tires and wheels always balanced. The second dealer did admit that the vibration was "unacceptable", but the Regional Ford Rep was of no help. They even said that everything (suspension, etc) "measured within specs".
I got tired of leaving my vehicle at the dealership and lived with the vibration for a year.
The other day I finally decided to get new tires. I have seen much feedback and purchased Yokohama Avid Touring tires (noted for their smoothness and comfort level). Guess what! Vibration STILL there!
Other than getting the alignment and shocks/struts checked by another shop, what else could be causing this annoying vibration/shimmy? I was ready to go out and buy my dream Honda Odyssey, but I don't want to lose my shirt over this problem vehicle.
Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
Steve
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Since you have eliminated the tires as a factor, it's a problem with the vehicle itself, and since it's still inder warranty, a dealer should fix it. Check in your owner's manual, there's probably a 800 number for Ford, and some kind of complaint resolution to follow. Definetly follow up on it, maybe start with your dealer again. See if he's willing to try something simple to start, like swapping all 4 wheels & tires from another Villager on his lot.
Good luck to you, keep at it, and let us know what happens. Don't trade for a Odyssey yet (read some of the Odyssey boards here, you might get scared off anyway).
Dave
WHEN IT IS VERY QUIET YOU CAN HIT THE TOGGLE SWITCH THAT OPERATES THE FLOW FROM VENTS TO FLOOR. SO AT LEAST THAT WORKS.
FOR MY NEXT CHALLENGE, DOOR LOCKS SEEM TO HESITATE, YOU PRESS EITHER THE KEY FOB OR THE ACTUAL DOOR POWER LOCK SWITCH AND MORE TIMES THAN NOT EITHER ONE OR SOMETIMES TWO OF THE LOCKS WILL HESITATE. THREE TIMES NOW THE LOCKS HAVE EITHER JUST UNLOCKED THEMSELVES OR UNLOCKED AS I WAS JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD. OTHER THAN THAT I HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT.
PLEASE ADVISE: SHOULD I CHANGE THE WATER PUMP AT THE SCHEDULED 105K MILE TIMING BELT SERVICE OR JUST LEAVE IT ALONE?
Try looking here:
http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/
Hope this helps.
Dave