Pontiac Grand Am

cdw324 · July 2002

I have a 2000 GA with 50,000 miles. For the past 4 months it has been using about two quarts of oil every 45 days. No leaks and no blue smoke. Has anyone else had a problem with disappearing oil? Any suggestions?

joe3891 · July 2002

Not sure if the GA has the new GM PCV system but it has caused high oil consumption when the seals leak.Call your dealer and ask.

azwmm · July 2002

'99 Grand AM SE2, I had my water pumper replace at 39k for $270 and the belt replaced at 35k for $140. This was not done at the dealer. Keep the old belt in your car.

hambonz2000 · July 2002

I have a 1999 Grand Am Gt. The vents are spinning freely so I cant get air because the vents wont stay in place when I set them. Can anyone help me with this.

tomcat630 · July 2002

"BORING!"

Pontiac's cladding had become a joke in the industry. It's about time they got rid of it. Sales of them are way down this year and they needed to modernize the cars.

Cladding is like too many gold chains and "Mullet" hair, over!

the_art_guy · July 2002

I was driving last night and I saw a 2003 Grand Am. This is the first time I have actually seen one up close. In my opinion it looks too bland, it doesn't look as aggressive as the previous models. It really does look like an Alero with a Grand Am front and rear end.

When I first bought my 2000 Grand Am SE I didn't really like the body cladding, I thought it was a bit excessive. But after having the car for 1 1/2 years I have grown to like it.

...I'll stick with my 2000 model with the "excessive cladding"

scott13713 · July 2002

I recently purchased a 92 grand am se coupe, sohc quad 4 5 spd manual. I have put maybe 1000 miles on and so far i love it with no major problems. It has 84k miles and i notice that there is a squeaking noise made when i turn the wheel in conditions where its more difficult for the power steering (ie: when im not moving) i figured it could be a porblem with the fluid, so i checked it.

Low and behold it was black(PS fluid should be clear looking with a tint of brown) so i flushed the system by using a giant seringe and sucking all the fluid that i could out and adding clean fluid. i have done this maybe 6 times now and put more than 2 quarts of fluid throught it. the fluid is now clear and does not seem to be getting any darker as i drive it. The squeaking is less severe, but its still there. i have thought about changing the belt that runs the pump. also, if i rev the engine up a little when i turn it wont squeak as much. any help with this????

heng · July 2002

It is cheap and a lot of times the source of the squeek

burdawg · July 2002

What your describing is a classic sign of the belt slipping on the pulley. I don't remember if that model had a serpentine belt that far back or not - but if it does check the belt condition, especially the ribs on the back of the belt. There shouldn't be any areas of missing ribs, but cracking in the ribs is OK. Also the belt tensioner could be weak and not putting the right tension on the belt.
If it's a V-belt, adjust it.
The fluid was probably just dark from age. It's best to take a drop of the fluid and put it on a piece of white paper (thick paper that it won't soak into fast) and then you can really get an idea of how dirty it is. By the way, it's acceptable (and many times recommended) to use trans fluid in the power steering, which will not be clear.

scott13713 · July 2002

The pump is run off of the right side(when u are standing in front of the car looking at the engine) of the engine, as i believe it is run off the crank,(not for sure) any idea how much this belt might cost?

scott13713 · July 2002

no run off the crankshaft(duh) its run off the cam

noclueoncars · July 2002

Hey everyone, this is a great forum I have been reading posts and have decided to post one myself. I have an 2001 GA coupe v6 and due to a minor accident on the left side (there's a scratch, lots of peelng paint on that, and the fog light is gone, where would be a nice and cheap place to get it fixed at?
Also where can you get refurbished rims from? My sister seems to have dented one somehow.
I know it seems like we're are horrible drivers but its just bad luck. Our 96 prix just got totaled and we never got any $$ back from it and it wasnt our fault, it was just parked.
Also on our GA we recently just got our rotors changed too at 26K. Ok I know this will sound stupid but what are rotors for? Thank you for reading sorry for rabling.

noclueoncars · July 2002

One more thing on the highway steering seems really lose and shaky. It feels like I always need a death grip on it or veer into oncoming cars. Apparently it is due to a bent hub bearing or ball bearing. I am not sure because the dealership was not quite clear. I am just wondering it about it now. Does anyone know which one it could be? This is on the left front side that all the damage is on.

burdawg · July 2002

Your right, I forgot that the power steering pump is run off the back of the camshaft on the quad 4. Inexusable for me since I own one. Let me check my manual and I'll get back to you.

dindak · July 2002

Cladding on the GT looks fine. The SE cladding we didn't like so we went with the Alero GX instead. Alero came with the added bonus of 4 wheel discs and external no antenna. Like the updated GA better, but the best is yet to come with the new model in 2004.

rose_bud · July 2002

Hi! It's been a long time since I've been on. Good to read through this again...

The highway is being mean to my GA's front and I think I might want to protect it by using a bra.

Anyone out there use a car bra? Anyone have good/bad info on them?

Any suggestions on where to get them?

Thanks!

scott13713 · July 2002

The rotors are simply vented metallic disks that are attached to your axle(one beside each tire.) when u step on the brake pedal it pushes 2 pads(one on each side) against the disk and thus, slows down your car. After time, your rotors get worn from all the stopping and need to be replaced. These brakes are usually found in front and sometimes in back on usually sports cars or more expensive cars. The other type of brake is a drum brake. Which uses the same type of technique except if u think of a bowl with pads(known as shoes on a drum brake) on the inside. these pads push outward on the bowl type mechanism. The reason drum brakes dont wear out as often is because when u stop all the force is being transfered to the front when u stop, therefor the front brakes do most of thw work. As for the GA's needing new rotors alot, i dont think its bad manufacturing, i just think its that the GA's are so fast that when u stop, you will have to slow down a whole lot more than with any other car

nikkiknight104 · July 2002

I recently purchased a 1997 Grand Am GT with 36,500 miles on it. A week after I bought it, I returned to work during my lunch hour, parked my car, and the key became stuck in the ignition. The daytime running lights and inside panel lights remain on when this happens. I tried shifting from neutral back to park several times, restarting the car and turning it back off--nothing worked. I work in a bad neighborhood where you don't want to leave your car unlocked with the keys in the ignition! (I only had one key at the time). I had to take 4 hours of personal time off work for this to drive my car back to the dealer. They gave me a loaner and I got my car back the next day. I was told they had adjusted the linkage (they said it wasn't shifting all the way into Park). Eight days later, the same problem occurred. It was after hours but I called the dealer and someone answered. He told me to bring it in the next day, but I argued that if the car didn't end up stolen, the battery would be dead by morning. I drove the car 45 miles back to the dealer. They sent my car to a Pontiac mechanic and had the whole shifter and ignition tumbler replaced and 2 new keys made. I was without my car for 6 days for this. I now have 3 keys that fit and work. I was glad to have my car back...BUT...15 hours later, I arrived at work, put my car in Park, and it happened AGAIN!!! After shifting back and forth and re-starting and re-parking, I was able to get the key out. I couldn't go anywhere on my lunch hour for fear that I would not be able to return to work. That was today. I complained to the service manager, who told me to bring my car back after work today and they'll get it straightened out. I sure hope so. HAS THIS PROBLEM HAPPENED TO ANYONE ELSE???? I've checked all the recalls and technical service bulletins even before I bought the car, and haven't seen anything like this. But the dealer said (after the second "repair") that the Pontiac mechanic says this eventually happens to "99% of those Grand Ams".! (?) Anyone have any input or suggestions as to the problem? The dealer says it's NOT transmission-related (although to me, the shifter IS transmission-related).

gagmman · August 2002

It sounds like your power steering pump could be getting bad.

the_art_guy · August 2002

rose bud,

I would not recommend getting a car bra. I was in the same position as you last year, my front bumper on my 2000 Grand Am was repainted and I wanted to keep it looking nice and new. I purchased a full front end car bra from my local Pontiac dealer for about $50. I wanted to make sure it fit perfectly and was made for the car so that's why I didn't go with an aftermaket one. A front end cover consists of the front end cover that covers the entire front end bumper and a hood cover that slides over the front edge of the hood.

I used it for a while and then stopped using the front end cover and only used the hood cover. About 6 months ago I stopped using it all together. These were my reasons:

1. It is not really difficult to clean the front end cover, but it does take time to dry. It is NOT recommended that you put the cover back on the car while wet.
2. Dirt, sand, etc. collect along the underside edges of the cover which can cause minor scratching of the clearcoat if left for several weeks without cleaning. Leaves, bugs, dirt, etc. also collect along the underside of the hood cover.
3. Water does not drain as efficiently on the hood cover as it does with the front end cover. This can lead to mold spots on the surface of the car. (see my experience below)
4. The hood cover caused paint to rub off of the side edges of the hood (This is where the cover wraps around the thin edge of the hood)

I had been using the hood cover for about 3 or 4 months when I discovered mold spots on the hood of my car. I like to clean my car every few weeks, so I was washing it and I removed the hood cover to clean it. As I was washing the hood of my car I noticed a few small green spots along the front of the hood, directly under where the cover sits. I had to end up scraping the mold off with my finger nail and then washing the affected areas well with the soap. After this I stopped using the cover all together.

I still have the cover, but it's in a box in my storage closet. I would recommend using the cover if you were going on a long road trip, say on a vacation or something like that. But for everyday, local driving, I would not recommend them because I don't think they are very friendly to the car if used regularly.

This is my experience, I hope it helps you decide!

loves2drive · August 2002

Please for anyone thinking about buying a Grand Am save yourself and do not I repeat do not buy the model with the Quad 4. They are okay if you trade your cars in every year or two but if you like to keep your cars longer this engine is a nightmare. Mechanics can't stand this engine. I have to beg and plead to get one to even look at my car. They just have a bunch of problems with this engine. And ofcourse a car salesmen is not going to tell you this unless he's one in a million.

tomcat630 · August 2002

GM quit making the Quad 4 last year, finally.

freddie01r · August 2002

nikkiknight104,

I have a '00 GA GT, and have had this happen to me about 8 times. As you said, the key will not come out, and the owner could spend a long time trying to get it out. Once, I got it out by braking hard and then shifting into park. It doesn't always work though. The other times it would just come out by force after turning the key back and forth (about 10 times). Ironically, my wife uses the car more than I do, and it has never happened to her. I have started to put and remove the key slowly and delibartely. So far so good, it hasn't gotten stuck again. The dealer said it would cost about $250 to repair and that they had succesfully repaired it for someone else. Also, if you definetly can't get it out, I suggest that you carry a keyless entry remote separate from the key chain so at least you can get in and out of your car with the key left inside and at the same time have the car alarm armed! I know this is only a temporary solution (and only if it doesn't happen every time) but it works when you don't need to be out of the car long. Personally, I would only do this if I were to be away from the car 20 minutes tops. Thankfully for me, it has been about a month since I started being very careful and there hasn't been a problem. I hope my comments helped and let me know what happens!

freddie01r

scott13713 · August 2002

My thanks go out to everyone with the help. After about a weeks of ponering and a long day getting the new power-steering belt on, the squeaking in my steering is completely gone. After loosening the pump and about 2 hrs of trying to get the belt out i ended up cutting it and ripping it out. i was very frustrated, but after that, i realized how incredibly bad shpe the belt was in: one of the ribs was almost completely gone, and the others all had considerable chunks out of them. I did end up getting the new belt in after about 3 hours of work. thank you to everyone the squeak is finally gone and no, the pump is not bad, works just fine now. Thanks again

burdawg · August 2002

Over the years, it became clear to me that the biggest problem with the Quad 4 was fact that it was used mostly in low end cars that probably wouldn't get very good care. Add to that the early attempts by GM (remember the original HO quad 4 without a balance shaft?), and the fact that most independent mechanics never understood it. I've had very good results with it for many years, but discovered early that any job that I wasn't willing to do myself should be left to Pontiac. A good example is changing the water pump. I once spent 45 minutes trying to explain to a local guy that you had to (well, highly recommended) take off the timing chain cover and remove the chain tensioner the relieve the pressure on the pump drive gear. He just couldn't except the fact that the water pump is driven off the timing chain.
It's probably better that it has become history.

dindak · August 2002

Q4 was a very noisy engine. The Ecotec in our 02 Alero is a dream in comparison. GM finally made a good four banger!

joe3891 · August 2002

still having a chain driven water pump.Check out the new 4.2L I6 belt driven water pump & a 4 & 5 cylinder to come.

nie1218 · August 2002

In Feb. '02, my husband and I bought a '99 Grand Am. It is "my" car, since he has a '93 GA and I was driving an '88 Accord. I wanted another Honda, but his car had 180,000 miles on it with a few minor repairs, so I decided for the price and his car's track record to go American.
Since Feb. I have driven from Ohio to WV and back on three different weekends. We have also taken a week to drive through WV, Va, NC and back. The car has 54.000 miles on it. I also drive 60 miles a day roundtrip to work, so it gets a good workout.
During the past 5 months, the car has needed front brakes, back tires, a water pump, timing chain, and now it's at the dealer's for an alternator.
I stumbled upon this website in a desperate need to know that we didn't buy a lemon! I have spent the entire weekend reading all 1479 posts...THANK YOU for sharing what you have---it truly puts my mind at ease to know that it's not just my car. I absolutely love it when it's not in the shop, but it is getting a bit aggravating having it there every two weeks. I look forward to keep being "educated" on what to look out for and what to expect/plan for with GA's here...thanks again!

jpryba · August 2002

Nikkiknight, there is a cheap and easy solution to the problem of your key getting stuck in the ignition. (I have a 96 Grand Am which I got used back in 99, which gave me the same problem after a few months of ownership.) On the bottom side of the steering column is a small panel, about 1 inch by 1.5 inches. Pop it off with a flathead screwdriver. The next time you put the car into park and the key won't come out, simply stick your finger into the hole where the panel used to be, and then push the little cylinder inside of it. As you press it with a finger on your left hand, you should be able to remove the key with your right hand. Make sure that you are in park when you do this, of course. I almost always use my parking brake anyway (and it seems to help keep the rear drums adjusted and cleaned, allowing them to do their fair share of braking work while keeping your front rotors from warping too prematurely... I wish I had found out about this sooner! BTW, the key gets stuck less because I'm using my parking brake. I'm not sure why, though. Maybe someone else here does.).

carseeker4 · August 2002

Its been a while since I've been on this board. We own a 99 GA SE1 with the 4-banger. We have just passed the end of the warranty period. We have replaced under warranty... right rear strut, p/s pump, driver's seat back support spring, fuel relay (leaked within the 1st 1K miles and left a gasoline odor!)..... Now, I'm reading about water pumps, alternators and manifold gaskets going at 42K (right now, I am at 34K on this car). I passed on the extended warranty because they wanted to charge 1200 for it, now I'm wondering if that was a bad decision! I need 3 more years to pay off our new Santa Fe before I can consider a new car. Hopefully, the GA won't be a money pit. At least, if it is....it will have the honor of being my last American car.

guyl · August 2002

I have a 99 SE2 and currently have 75000 miles on it. The only problem I have had was the front brakes, but I fixed that by putting on cross-driled rotors. The front seat, I bought a used one for 50 dollars, and thats it. Knock on wood.

carseeker4 · August 2002

...Hopefully ours will be that good. Although, we may never reach the 75000 mile plateau. This is definitely a low-mileage vehicle, since my wife is close to work and is its primary driver. It seems you had the front seat problem too.... that is wierd... I have never had that happen or heard of it happening. We also had the issue with the bad rotors at about 10000 miles and the dealer replaced them and no problem since. Brakes are still doing good at 34K.

dchandler2 · August 2002

Has any one changed the transmission filter and fluid on a 2000 Grand AM GT. I like to do as much of my own maintenance as possible, however, this looks like an impossible task. Any suggestions.

burdawg · August 2002

but it's a harder process since there's no dipstick. The level is set by removing a plug in the side of the trans case and filling to the level of that hole. Of course the fluid has to be at normal operating temp. I had to remove the right front tire to see the hole easily, and the car has to be relatively level when filling. Changing the filter is the same as before. I bought a new gasket but probably didn't need it, it's a rubber gasket with a steel insert and is re-usable if not damaged.

scott13713 · August 2002

i was coming back out of a store and got in my car and started it. the car was running extremely loud and made a loud clicking noise coming from the timing chain case, so i ripped apart the case ansd looked in and saw that the clicking weas coming from there. The clicking was basically the cam clicking back into place. after doing this, the chain would slip a link because the gear was worn. being as stupid as i was i had to drive it home because i wasnt about to call a tow truck. sadly, im pretty sure i bent the valves because the cam timing was wrong. the valves could have been opening when the piston was at TDC(top dead center) the quad 4 being a 0 clearance engine, the piston would have hit the valves and bent them. so after changing the timing chain and gears i put it back together and checked compression.....NONE

so now i am at the point where i must rip apart the whole engine (intake manifold, exhaust manifole, timing case, power steering pump) so that i can get the cylinder head off and replace the valves that i screwed up, any other ideas i may be forgetting before i rip the cylinder head off? if not does anyone have a good website where i can purchase valves and anytbhing else i need?

97grandamse · August 2002

When activated the hazard front lights flash but the rear does not. However, when the directional signal is turned on then all flashers work properly. Does this indicate a faulty flasher?

burdawg · August 2002

That's indicative of a faulty multifunction switch (sometimes called a combination switch). It's been discussed many times in various areas of this forum. Almost all of the outside turn/hazard/brake and high beam circuits are routed through this component, and when it becomes intermittent it can manifest itself in various ways.

dhe · August 2002

i'm having similar problem! the signal lights sometimes not working. i have to press several tomes for the hazard light and then try the signal lights. Sometimes even if you did not use them , you can here the blink noise form inside of the hazard button. i try to check the flasher ( for what people told me) but don't know where.

delawana · August 2002

I just bought a GA GT1 2002 from a local dealership. It was like pulling teeth to get the color I wanted and they kept telling me that there were no GA GT1's in white left in Ontario. I think that I scared them when I started doing my own research and found one in southern ontario. They miraculously called me back to tell me that they had finally found one (after 2 days of trying to sell me a silver one) ANYWAYS, They go get the car and it put about 400 km's on it(which is the actual distance from the dealership) and the passenger side door doesn't open!! well it opens a little bit but not before it makes a loud clicking noise because the moulding catches. And its not just the moulding that catches, the door atcually catches as well. When I arrived to pick it up they told me about it right away and informed me that the other dealership "didn't catch the problem" but that they would fix it. So two days after I bought the car I had to bring it back and they "temporarily fixed it" but I have to bring it back in sept.
My question is this; how does something like this get unnoticed, how does a brand new car just sittin on a lot get so badly damaged? It just pisses me off because it doesn't really feel like a new car cause its BROKE. Would it be unrealistic to ask for them to throw in window tinting or something like that for the inconvenience?
any comments are so very appreciated.
thanks

bill211 · August 2002

Has anybody got a suggestion for what kind of grease GM uses on the slides for the sunroof? I want to regrease so it stays in tip top shape.

As for asking for a tint job in the previous post, you can try but they are under no obligation to make you happy. Also it is normal for you find and note broken items during your final walk around, not during transport. Unless they were unscrupulous and trying to get rid of a unit with known door problems. Alas its all under warranty. They are under obligation to fix this and should fix it with a smile.

bill211 · August 2002

How about brand of oil filter used and how often do you change oil? Do you follow the computers recommendation or every 3k or every 1028k?

burdawg · August 2002

I change at 3k (you didn't really mean 1028k did you?) on all my cars except for the Suburban which is a special case due to very low use. I've gotten into the habit of using Fram filters since they now have a special coating on the end that increases the grip making it easy to get them off as long as you don't overtighten.

tomcat630 · August 2002

Rumor has it that for 2005, Pontiac may change the 'Grand Am' name for it's mid size car based on the Epsilon platform. Mainly for an image change.

rondo11 · August 2002

will a 1989 2.3liter quad 4 go into a 1992 grand am w/ a 2.3liter quad 4. bottom line, are they the same block, etc

carseeker4 · September 2002

I have a 99 SE with the "basic" stereo/cassette. Occasionally over the past 2 weeks I have noticed that the display becomes garbled. Sometimes, its a combination of the time and the radio station! For example, this afternoon, it read "162.5". Unless, maybe, I'm picking up signals from Jupiter, this is not a valid frequency for this radio. If I hit "Reset" a couple times it might return to normal. Then, suddenly it hits and its normal for a while. So....has anyone had this problem and if so, any resolution/repair/cost of repair? This car is 6 weeks out of warranty and I'm waiting for something big to happen!

bill211 · September 2002

Read this then let me know what you think. I used to always use Fram, but now I will use AC Delco or WIX

http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html

Also what air filter do you prefer?

jmcknight2 · September 2002

I had my radio replaced twice under warranty, with the same problems you described. It still has problems sometimes, but no big deal. I try to ignore it, but it's a problem that should't be.

carseeker4 · September 2002

thanks... I guess there's no point in trying to get it repaired since your repair didn't completely solve the problem! No need to spend money on that! You're right...it shouldn't happen...

mrintamaki · September 2002

I have the exact same problem as posted in message 1470. Was there a final fix?
I've been told it's a relay problem. I'm waiting for an electrical diagram to troubleshoot it.

noclueoncars · September 2002

I have an extended warranty that was an extra $1000 and I read that everytime it goes in I have to pay a $100 deductble.Isthat expensive? For example, if it goes in for minor repairs, lets say something that would cost $80.00 I would still have to pay $100? Can someone explain this?Thanks.

Pontiac Grand Am

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