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Chrysler Concorde



  • pevapeva Posts: 42
    Good info. - that's good that the smaller engine uses a chain instead of a belt, especially if it is an interference engine like I've heard.

    I would like to find out a little more about the alleged tranny problems - don't want to get stuck with one of those - a couple of people on other forums (not Chrysler-product related) are pretty upset, and according to them, Chrylser seems to be stone-walling them about (apparently) taking any responsibility for a serious defect, although supposedly it's fixed for '99 and newer - but I don't want to make an expensive mistake based on hear-say.

    Thanks again.
  • See the below link for tranny info and everything else Chrysler related.

  • peva:

    I don't think they decontent. They add on one or two things each year and typically up the price a couple hundred.

    one of the main external things are the wheels. In my 99, the wheels are 15". From 00 and up, the wheels are 16". Steel on the LX, and alloy on the LXI, although aluminum alloy wheels are options on the LX also.

    I personally prefer the cloth seats of the LX, and not the leather of the LXI. Just bugs me when it's summer the leather seats are hot, and when in winter will freeze your butt.

    I actually prefer the 2.7 V6, I am not the expert but I understand that the transmission is different than on the bigger engines. The different transmission actually helps the smaller engine accelerate with equal speed as the bigger engines. I could be wrong, the experts around here should know. I actually got that idea from the 300M board, where the 300M owners bewail their low geared cars, and wish they had the taller gearing of the Concorde LX.

    On the transmission problems from previous years, the 98/99 and up models (current bodies) are much better, light years away from the previous one.

    These cars are just much better designed and built.

    As you have read above, there are some complaints about premature brake rotor warping. I'm at 30,000 miles on my 99 Concorde, and had to have the rotors replaced. No, the dealer did not offer to pay any part of it. It's also the first time I replaced the disk pads. That's been my only big repair bill. Everything else has been regular preventative maintenance.

    There are some complaints about rubber stripping around the doors, which shrink in really warm weather (actually stretch, then shrink when it's colder). Also the driver's window gets stuck cause the window seal melts somewhat and sticks to the glass like glue. Lots of folks mistakenly have their winder motors replaced usually under warranty. But the wiser people just keep the windows clean and wipe off the gunk every other day.

    You might read in this topic or in the other two (300M and LHS) topics that when folks had their window motors replaced, some of their door panels were actually badly mangled (and not repaired) by the technicians (probably cause they didn't have the right tool from Chrysler). Just beware.

    You may want to rethink your buying an off lease for about $14,000 or so. You can get a brand new 2001 LX for about $17,000 with all the rebates at this time. Hurry though, I suppose they're getting the old models off the lot, cause they want to sell you the new one. The new 2002 Concorde is actually last year's LHS externally.

    Visit the dealer and you'll see what I mean.

    Here's a site with Chrysler/Dodge info in general":

    and the 300M club is very active on this board in its own topic as well as on ezboard:

    This one was pretty good but haven't had success accessing it lately:

    happy motoring!


  • binubinu Posts: 81
    Ruski !

    In one of the boards, I remember you mentioning something about a leaking a/c on your 300M.
    Can you tell me more about this ? (symptoms and how it was fixed).

    I have recently started hearing a 'low' hissing sound from the a/c when the compressor is running.
    Sometimes, the sound gets louder.
    Of course, it is fine when in the dealership.

    thanks for any info.
  • Just wondering if any other Concorde owners have had as many window problems as I have had.
    My 99 Concorde Lxi now has over 66,000 miles and I now need my 3rd power window switch replaced as well as 1 window motor and 1 power door lock mechanism also required replacement....also required a new dual cooling fan replacement in the past....all I can say is I sure got my moneys worth out of my extended warranty this time especially by being able to pass on all the dealer suggested high cost preventive maintenance they have tried to recommend since I purchased my Concorde.{other then oil changes,brakes,belts,and hoses I feel there is no reason to pay for both an entended warranty and also pay for preventive maintenance that is not required by the manufacturer.)
    Other then the above mentioned repaires which added up have cost Chrysler much more then the cost of my extended warranty I would have to say that my Concorde mechanically as far as the drive train(engine&tranny)it has been a very reliable car and to date have not required any drive train repairs.
  • Had one replaced just recently on my 99 LX, thank goodness still under warranty since it's still just slightly over 30k. They had no explanation why it broke. Probably bad bearings or something silly like that. It's amazing how some really small cheap $.15 part messes up things, costing them a couple hundred to fix. Won't Chrysler and the other domestic manufacturers learn?
  • I bought my '94 Concorde in late '93 and now have 155K miles so I should be qualified to comment.

    For your item #4, transmission problems seem to be caused by using other than Chrysler 7176+ or ATF +3 fluid. Never use Dexron or get ready for a re-build. I've not had a transmission problem and changed the fluid once at 120K miles.

    The A/C evaporator rotted out at 70,000 miles and was replaced by Chrysler. The problem was that their supplier did not properly wash out the acid rinse during manufacture. The A/C is very powerful and does a good job here in Central Florida. The rest of the system including compressor is original.

    I just replaced my brake pads this past weekend for the first time. Had original rotors turned. The four wheel disc anti-lock brakes do a good job. We travel to our mountain home every month or so heavily loaded and have pulled trailers and pull my 2000# boat on the hottest days. A reason for the larger engine is towing capacity. I have the 3.3L and can tow 2000#.

    To answer your question #5, visit for Chrysler enthusiasts site.

    I'll probably buy another Concorde after I finally wear out my '94. It still runs and looks good. It can maintain 80 MPH all day, get over 28 MPG with air and still uses very little oil.

    Good luck. Hope you find a good one too.
  • Otto,

    I don't know if you have the answer to question 2 posed in message 591 or not, but I too would like to know the answer. Why does the Chrysler 42LE Tranmission Learn and what do we gain by having this feature?

    I personally think my 300M drives best when at default settings. Like when we test drove and fell in love. :) I reset my computer occasionally after I get annoyed with the way the tranny is shifting in Drive, especially after I've used autostick for a little agressive driving. I would expect luxury smooth shifting to return in drive,

    Incidentally, my mother's 2000 Concorde shifts fairly consistently. Is this because it doesn't have the autostick and have to switch between the firmer sport shifting and soft luxury type shifting?
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    They learn because people have different driving styles. Some gun it off the line others don't so having the computer be able to match shift points to the way you drive is the main reason they learn . If you have two different people driving the car two different ways the car will learn say how your wife drives ,then when you get in and drive you say whats going on. The reason they drive better when just reset is because after a few days of driving your driving styles change with traffic and weather conditions so the computer picks a middle of the road shift setting and that's when you feel the shifting is not as good. If you were to drive like a race car driver 90% of the time your trans would always shift this way .but we drive differently every day. Probably the Concorde shifts better because your mom drives this car very gently so this is how the computer learned to shift .
  • I have also had numerous window problems with my 99' Concorde. I've had three window motors replaced. I've read some posts that talked about the windows sticking to the molding. I recently went to roll a window down (one of the replaced ones) and it wouldn't work. I remembered the posts on sticking and after some pushing and pulling it opened. The posts talked about keeping the window tops cleaned and the rubber moldings soft (I use one of the many silicone products). I try to do this regularly and have had no problems since. I'm like you - except for the window issues it's been a great sedan - no other problems to date.
  • Ottowkr,

    Thanks for the feedback on the learning tranny.

    I understand what you're saying but I still prefer the tranny in my 94 Dodge Ram. :)
  • pevapeva Posts: 42
    I just bought a '99 Concorde this week - very pleased!

    I would like to swap out the plain looking gage cluster for the retro-looking (black letters on cream background) cluster. Does anyone know what determines what years or models (LXi?) determines that the vehicle has that cluster so that I can efficiently search for it from a salvage yard or other source. Is there any chance that the similar looking cluster in the 300M's (and I assume LHS's) are a drop in fit (to possibly broaden the availability)?

    BTW, I also want to swap out the factory radio/cassette for the factory radio/cd/cassette. Figured a good source would be someone that has installed an aftermarket system and has the factory one to sell.

    If so, post here and we can go from there.

  • pevapeva Posts: 42
    I see some recent discussion here on "learning tranny". I was driving thru some long steep rolling hills here in Virginia (in my "new" this week '99). I had the cruise control on and was slightly startled on a downhill when I heard the engine speed increase and the tac bumped up to 3k, and it wasn't until leveling out at the bottom of the hill when it upshifted again that I realized that the transmission was actually downshifting to provide engine braking to maintain the cruise control setpoint dead-nuts on. I'm an engineer, and I was impressed!
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    Yes the LHS/300M gauges will fit . I have seen the 300 gauges in a Intrepid ,looks nice. The only problem you may have is that the outer trim bezel that goes around the gauges may not cover a few of the areas that should be covered ,so you may see part of the bar code on the lower right corner of the gauge package face. The only difference between the LHS gauges and the 300 set is were the PRNDL is used. The 300M has Autostick so it goes PRND1234. As your Concorde does not have A/Stick you must find the LHS package.
  • pevapeva Posts: 42
    Do you know if any Concordes or Intrepids came from the factory with the retro (black letters on cream face) gages? I could have sworn I saw one in a used car lot like that - I would be surprised if someone retrofitted it, but it could happen. If any do come from the factory like that, do you know what (year, trim package?) determines that?

    Also, if I were to do a retrofit, I assume that I would need the whole cluster - not just the individual gages?
  • Hello everyone. I have been researching for about a year now on what to replace my 1995 Dodge Neon with. I have looked at everything from Hyundai to Honda. I think I am going to settle on a used Concorde 98 – 2000. A few notes about Chrysler products, I have read the good and the bad on this forum and I must say I am pretty satisfied with my dodge neon. My current OD reading is 195,120 miles with NO Major components replaced. I have had some repairs done all of which I do myself (being an ex-mechanic I am able to do so) most notably was the head gasket, all 4 struts, front wheel bearings, crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor replaced at 141,000 and a rear main oil seal, starter and alternator at around 95,000. The only other things I have replaced are normal wear items (brakes, tires, tune ups) never had any transmission or drive axle problems what so ever. I always maintain my car with oil changes every 3000 miles never over 4000 and regular scheduled maintenance.

    I love the Concorde and feel very comfortable driving it. I feel with the luck I have had with the Neon the Concorde should be even better. I am confident that if anything should come up I can fix it without spending thousands of dollars.

    I have read a lot of complains about road noise and wonder if maybe
    a. Some of the people on this board are older and have hearing aids which might amplify the noise
    b. Have become accustomed to there cars and their ears are more in tune with the cars noises translating that to more noise.

    I have noticed that with my Neon. Sometimes I feel my neon is very noisy especially after driving it straight for weeks and not riding in another vehicle. Then I will drive my wife’s car for a day or so I come to find my neon not as noisy (I must state here though that when I fist got my Neon I added my own sound insulation throughout the whole car so it is probably quieter than the stock Neon).

    I do want to thank everyone on the board that has posted positive and negative feelings for their Concorde it has been helpful to see what possible problems could arise and maybe even how to fix them right the first time and even though Chrysler products have there faults (show me one manufacturer that doesn’t) that they are good cars for the price/performance/enjoyment factors.
  • toms99toms99 Posts: 252
    I'm in the market for a new Concorde for my wife (I have a 99LHS and usually hang out in the 300M board - the LHS board is dead !)

    You mentioned "You can get a brand new 2001 LX for about $17,000 with all the rebates at this time."

    What rebates? are they regional? I have my eye on a 2001's new, a leftover. Small number of options including ABS. Sticker is 23K. I figured I can get them down to 19K or 20K, but do you think 17K is realistic? (Edmunds "True Market Value says 18K + about $500 for the ABS and of course $625 destination.)

    I'm not a good haggler. But this is the same dealership I bought my 99LHS brandy new (should count for something I guess!) The dealer is great with a terrific service department (from what I read on the groups that's pretty rare !!) Plus DC is offering the 7 year 100K mile warranty even on the 2001's.

    What do you think is a fair "bottom-line" price??

  • pevapeva Posts: 42
    I just bought a '99 Concorde.

    Will pass along some random thoughts and observations.

    1. I avoided the '98 because supposedly they had some transmission problems which were cleared up by the '99 MY.

    2. There's an '01 blue Intrepid in a lot I was shopping at for (I couldn't believe it when the guy told me this) $8950 - and that's the asking! It does have 70k miles on the ticker, but that may or may not bother you. The good side of that - with that many miles on it in such a short time, that has to be a salesman's car with all highway miles. Looks to be in good shape. It's not the color I wanted, and I had already bought the one I now have two days ago. I thought I got a good deal at $10.5k very tight and clean with 57k miles until I saw that one - but I still think I got a good deal.

    3. Prices are all over the place, but I have seen them drop over the 6 months I have been shopping around. What was $11.5 to 14k now can be had for well below $11k - and in very good condition. Used car dealers are having a very tough time right now, and the mfgrs. are stockpiling used cars right now to keep used car prices up so people will still have some incentive to go new.

    4. Regarding road noise, I noticed it on my mother's '98 and other 98's that I test-drove - seemed to be bearing or tire noise from the rear axle, but probably due to poor sound insulation in the rear seat area rather than a mechanical problem. My '99 has no noise like that whatsoever - very quiet - they must have fixed that also for '99. Another reason to go with '99 or later, IMO.

    Oh - and the '01 I looked at has the black letters on cream gages.
  • I would e-mail all the local Chrysler dealerships within 50 miles, and ask them about any leftover 01's. After you get an idea of the supply, then you can decide how agressive to be.
  • toms99:
    sorry haven't come to this board in two weeks.
    In the No. VA area, there are a couple of dealers who do the low-price car ads, you know the ones they advertise then when you come to the lot find out that the ones you REALLY want (with the bells n whistles)cost a little bit more.

    Anyway, one of them is Darcars Fairfax Chrysler.
    I waited for one of their ads back in April 99, it said $18k for a brand new 99 Concorde LX. I took the ad, went to their lot and looked for that car. Found it and bought it. Note that it was stock LX. No leather seats, no moonroof, no CD player, had the stock 2.7L engine, etc. And since there was only one on the lot, I could not choose the color. It is a candy apple red color, very attractive to cops hiding behind flyover pillars.

    Three weeks ago they advertised a brand new 2001 Concorde LX for $17500. I figure that includes all of the factory incentives plus some holdback.
    This is the same dealer who advertises "up to $7,000 discount on brand new 2001s" in big bold letters. I have not found out which car it is they have the 7,000 discount on. Probably a Grand Voyager.

    In your case, you probably will get a good deal if you have the dealer come down to $19k+ from 23k, assuming you have some goodies on the car. Beware they don't get you back with a high APR. I usually go to the dealer with a pre-approved loan from my bank in my pocket. My bank will lend me 101% of the price of a new car. Or they might try to bring down the trade in price. Another nice thing Darcars did for my trade-in is the salesman went to the computer, showed me, punched in the exact model car and mileage, printed out the 'seller' price and offered me 300 below it.
    I asked for the price printed and he said ok.
    It was for my 92 Toyota Camry with 61k miles worth $4500.
  • There is a small squeaking noise very difficult to ear coming from my steering column. It is there only when I turn the wheel clockwise at a definite point. It can be heard even when the car is not moving????
  • robw64robw64 Posts: 76
    I just bought a 2001 LXi on Saturday 12/29/01. After a couple of short trips I've noticed a very faint burning smell when I get out of the car. It smells somewhat plasticky. I thought it may be due to the vehicle being driven for the first time (it had only 52 miles on the odo). After watching the "Concorde Operating Tips" video included in the glove box which states minor oil use during the break in period is normal I haven't been too worried. The dealer is closed for the New Year's holiday so I can't call them. Anyone have any suggestions/comments? Thanks!
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    Sound like you are smelling oil and stickers that are on the exhaust system . There are many stickers that are on the pipes to identify when we are building the car . Just keep an eye on this , if it continues take it back and have the dealer make sure nothing is touching the exhaust .
  • binubinu Posts: 81
    I remember getting a light 'burn' smell when my 98 Concorde Lxi was brand new. It was particularly noticeable while braking.

    The smell was gone at around 300 miles.
  • roderacerroderacer Posts: 311
    LOL! Sorry couldn't resist!

  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    I had similar noises on my 300M. Turned out to be corrosion under the rack & pinion boots. Dealer replaced the steering column before figuring this out.
  • lee1nyclee1nyc Posts: 60
    I own a 98 Intrepid ES, and noticed the same thing recently on cold mornings. The noise I was getting was a squeak/scraping sound that went away after several minutes. Dodge replaced two rubber steering mounts and that solved it. Seems they get brittle after a few years. There was no impact or effect on performance.
  • lee1nyclee1nyc Posts: 60
    The problem was not solved with the rubber mounts. Dodge has ordered a new rack to be installed. Thankfully, it is being done under warranty.
  • robw64robw64 Posts: 76
    Hello everyone -- my 2001 Concorde LXi experiences heavy static on the radio when I turn on the rear defroster. Obviously, it has something to do with the integrated rear window antenna. The dealer couldn't find a cause when I took it in, so it goes back on Monday so they can consult with Chrysler in Detroit. Anyone experience something similar? By the way......I love this car!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    The Chrysler website shows two different photos for the interior/dashboard of the Concorde.

    The dashboard shot shows a virtual twin of the 300M but the overhead interior shot shows a different, slightly bulging center stack.

    What does the dashboard of the 2002 Concorde actually look like? Any photos out there?
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