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I see on AOL that Consumer Reports has added the Concorde to it's list of recommended vehicles. Perhaps I'm biased, but this is a domestic vehicle that offers tremendous value for the money whether it is compared to imports or any other large sedan.
My wife smashed the driver's side mirror of her 1999 Concorde pulling out of the garage. I bought a replacement mirror assembly on the Internet and began replacing it. I figured I'll be smart by cutting the wires and splicing them to the existing wires thinking that I wouldn't have to take the entire door apart, right? WRONG! When I spliced the wires, I must have messed up in the wiring--the mirror control switch worked for a little while, but then it gave out and stopped working.
I figured the fuse must be blown, but the fuse seems fine. It adjusts neither mirrors... Does anyone have any idea on how fix this? Could it be the switch? I'm lost...
On a trip through Colorado, Utah, Wyoming in Oct 1999Gas mileage was 27.7 for trip of 3400 miles. We were very satisfied with that as we drove 75 mph in the west and prowled the mountains a lot in 10 days.
Two weak spots. Needs larger brake pads. Warped the front rotors going down the west side of Loveland Pass even in lower gears.
This early winter had a no start. Positive battery cable completely corroded and broke.In the future I will pull air cleaner housing once a year and recoat the connection.
77,000 miles now and will keep for some time. Don't usually put on too many miles since retirement.
I had the exact same thing (battery terminal corrosion) happen last year on my '93 Accord...never heard of that one before.
Several weeks ago the AM went bad on me, a lot of static most of the time that rises and falls with acceleration. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the antenna module but it was the same. Returned it and they replaced the radio but I still have the static. I haven't taken it back as I don't think they know what they are doing. Any hints as to what it may be?? It reminds me of the static problems in the old days before the filters.
BTW, I got rid of the GdYr GA (God Awful)tires and put on Yokohama 420s from Discount Tire and they are awesome, the ride and noise improved greatly, someone else had recommended them in an earlier msg. The bottom line is the only reason I will get rid of this car is to buy another, preferably a LTD, but not anytime soon. Thanx to all for all of the insight and hints. I highly recommend this car to anyone.
http://detnews.com/2003/autosinsider/0302/14/autos-85317.htm
Suggest all read it and be aware.
Miles
There were several posts on the 300M board about metallic tint on windows causing AM reception problems
Have I been had or is this a great deal?
Is there a separate key for the trunk?
I am going to get a set of manuals from the dealer, but it may be a few days.
Thanks.
Does anyone know what Goodyear will do. The tires are in great shape but cause a vibration at speed when they are on the front.
Thanks for the info.
Frank
1 I would check the AC compressor clutch relay, in the Power Distribution box, under the hood, on the driverside strut tower area. You may be able to swap with the wiper relay, for a test. Look under the cover for the correct location of relays.
2 Maybe not so easy, I have read on other lists, that there is one wire soldered on the ATC control switch that breaks loose, on many Intrepids and probably Concords, that stops correct function. Dealers usually replace the switch, but can be repaired.
3 There is a way that a self diagonisis can be run on the ATC system to test all the sensors for correct function. Too complicated to write out, but probably easy to do, when you know how it's done. Both on-board and with a scan tool.
1. The left rear brake light has burned out several times while I still have the original on the left side.
2. The finish inside the car is of poor quality. The steering wheel worn poorly as has the console.
3. I have had the brakes replaced 3 times and the rotors turned each time but the brakes make an awful noise when applied.
3. Most alarming, the 2.7 liter engine has developed a ticking noise that I have been told by 2 different mechanics means that my motor is dying.
I generally like the car but wish that these problems did not exist. Am I the only one noticing these things? This is my first Chrysler product and I will be disappointed if I don't get the 200K + miles that I have with my Fords with out major repairs.
~lisa
Don't forget to claybar and Zaino your new baby.
I just re-claybared my slate blue 02 with 7600 miles.
I bought a 93 with 43,000 miles from first owner. Has been nothing but trouble since. I got a lot of maintenance slips from work they supposedly did that was done by the chrysler dealer. I have taken out the fuses so the battery doesn't go dead in the morning. The lights and door buttons go on by themselves all night. The owner had the battery changed. The AC goes on automatically when you start the car. Finally the compressor burnt up with 65,000 miles. The brakes were done at 50,000 now they're sounding bad again. I could go on and on.
I get the sense that this is an issue for these cars.
I have a 02 lx with 22100 miles.
Anyone else having this issue?
Thanks
Frank
Anyone have any idea what could be the issue? I have an appointment at the dealer late Monday morning, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks all!
Fedlawmen in Concorde with bad guy
Carry on!
933 - frank58
940 - mdkeefe
951 - robw64
954 - blacktop77
After 97K, front/driver side tire kept losing air
-vibration at higher speeds. Tire shop said my bushings (keeps the tires level)were worn out. Took it to dealership (Rick Hendrick Jeep-Chrysler, Charleston,SC) for repair. Left the same day with a new rattling noise - went back the next day & 2 days after that; but they said they had to order parts. Within a week I had the clunking noise in my suspension. After taking it back a total of 6 times and paying $1365; I still had a rattle I did not start with. They only managed to get rid of the noise when the brakes were used because they did not turn the rotors. Took it to another shop and found out a part in the steering rack was broken. The steering rack has to removed in order to replace the bushings.
As I suspected, the dealership damaged my car and refused to take responsibility for it. Beware!
For some strange reason, the transmission cooling hose(s) couplings into the "radiator" started dripping. Just loose according to the dealer. But at only 15,247 miles?? Its amazing how "new" problems occur, even after many years and many automobiles!
However, I have found this flickering, called the "light show", to be fixed very easily, at least on my '99 LHS. Do this --
Rotate your headlight and dimmer switches 5 to 8 times in all directions rapidly to their full limits, push the headlight switch in an out also, if your lxi has this feature. That should solve the problem for a while. It appears as if the rheostats which make up these switches get fouled. The rapid recycling seems to fix it by cleaning off the fouling.
Cheaper than messing with the dealer. But if that doesn't work on yours, then you need to have a module replaced, ask "fastdriver" on the 300M forum for the number of the TSB to ensure that the dealer doesn't try to tell you it doesn't exist. Or "fastdriver" probably will add to this discussion. You can also search for "light show" in any of the LH forums here on Edmund's for considerable message traffic for more info.