Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

squeak6 · April 2003

After 173,897 miles my check engine light came one for the second time w/my 98 5-speed... I hope its nothing major... what would cause the light to just come on?

I changed the passenger side front head lamp with no problems, it took me less than 20mins.... I may try to do a radiator flush later this week...

As always any additional tips to keep her running will be greatly appreciated... I only have 5 more payments...!!!!!

goose1207 · April 2003

The check engine light could mean a number of things. See if you can get the OBD-II code. Autozone can do this for you for free.

caesarslegion · May 2003

Local chevy dealer has used 2000 prizms. My question is since these cars are basically toyotas, do these cars have any issues with the sludge problem I heard about? Maybe these engines dont have these problems? I dont think the dealer would give me a straight answer so I figured you guys would.

mcdawgg · May 2003

The Corolla engines were not affected by the sludge problem. The sludge problem was on the V-6 and larger 4 cylinder Camry, not Corolla. And even on these sludge-prone engines, the "problem" is never a problem unless you push your oil changes too far.
Any engine will sludge if oil changes are not often enough.
The Prizm will be fine, if it has had proper maintenance, it will last so long you will just want to get rid of it because you are tired of it, not because of any mechanical problems.

lrlprizm · May 2003

Squeak: You're cruising along w/ your prizm! I'm glad my prizm doesn't have that idiot "check engine" light. Having a loose gas cap is a common culprit. If your car is driving OK, the "check engine" light usually points to something minor. But I know it's a pain to see that light on. Goose is right; you'll need to go somewhere that can pull the codes off your car's computer system to see what's amiss. I'll never buy a car with a "check engine" light! By the way, my trusty '95 Lsi just passed the 150k mark. Had to go to Walmart to buy a new tire (Goodyr Viva Touring) since the old one was worn down to the treadwear bars. If you rotate your tires and keep them inflated properly, you can get at least 50k - 85k per tire (assuming you buy a good tire). One longevity tip that will save you money in the future: Try to treat your rubber parts (CV joint boots, weatherstrips, etc) with a good wiping of silicone spray or other rubber automotive treatment products. This will keep the rubber pliable and long-lasting. Replacing a CV-joint boot is a pain, not to mention expensive. Flushing your radiator should be ez. Hope you've already done it. I plan to do another transmission flush soon (it's been about 22k miles)... never had a tranny problem. Will also attempt to "purge" and replace the brake fluid this summer. Other than that, synthetic oil and careful driving remains the key to longevity. See you at the 200k mark!

lrlprizm · May 2003

Caesar: If you've owned chevy cavaliers and ford taurus' in the past, I feel you'll find owning a prizm (corolla) a pleasant surprise. Like the reply b4 mine, I wouldn't worry about sludge in the prizm engine. Just make sure you change your oil regularly and you should have no problems with the prizm's engine. My Lsi prizm is now over 8 yrs old w/ over 150k miles--no engine or tranny problems. I use nothing but synthetic oil, and feel that's the ultimate secret to longevity--plus overall routine maintenance. Pick a good used prizm and enjoy the reliability. I have friends who have taurus' and cavaliers and I'm amazed at the amount and type of problems they have with their cars every few thousand miles--amazing.

caesarslegion · May 2003

Thanks for the info. The local chevy dealer has a bunch of them at reasonable prices and low miles. I usually buy new but the company I work for is going through a hard time and laying people off. So the lower the car note/high reliability the better.

09norcim · May 2003

Hi:

We have a 96 Prizm. The ABS (yellow light) stays on sometimes after start. Sometimes it goes away and the ABS works fine. Went to "MIDAS", they told me that they do not have the "ABS scanner", so I need to go to the dealer (However, they told me on the phone that they will charge $70 to get the ABS codes only). Dealer's shop said they charge $175 to service ABS and parts are extra. "TUFFY" told me to come on workdays only as GM ABS brake parts (Denso??) parts are available only at the GM dealers. Found a bulletin (www.carquest.com/techbulletins/brakes/1998/CQB9817.pdf) at "Carquest." It tells to it look for two codes and change pinion gear ($20.00 part).

I need suggestions for owners who had the similar problems.

Thanks

PS: (I am going to disconnect the battery to see, if all data/elec. resets. Does the break oil needs to be changed)

lrlprizm · May 2003

Although I might not be able to help you out completely, here's some info about your ABS light. Good news: If your ABS light remains on, it usually means you have regular braking, but not ABS braking. However, according to my thick service manual for my '95 prizm (900+ pgs), if the ABS light flashes, regular braking has been degraded and you must service the brakes pronto. BTW, the anti-lock brake section covers over 200 pgs! Bad news: The diagrams and charts get pretty technical, so it's best left up to the pros to pull the codes and correctly diagnose the root of the problem. Being that your light "sometimes" stays on, it's possible there's a short somewhere in the system--but that's only an educated guess. Flushing and bleeding the brake fluid is always a good maintenance idea (I plan to do it soon on my '95 prizm), but ABS brakes involves an extra step to bleed the hydraulic modulator--although I heard from "click and clack" that bleeding ABS brakes the regular way won't harm your ABS--you just won't completely bleed the system. Low brake fluid will cause your red "BRAKE" light to illuminate, and isn't connected to your amber ABS light. BTW, I've had no pblms with my ABS, and they've saved me from a couple of accidents already.

mohan_anuraag · May 2003

Hi,
Ihave come across an offer to buy a Geo 1994 Prizm. The seller tells me that it is a replica of the corrola.

I was wondering whether that is the truth.

csandste · May 2003

with the possible exception of the newest Corollas. It was a Corolla Sprinter in the Japanese market. Upscale from the Corolla of the same era. This was not true of the 98+ cars which were identical to the Corolla with some trim changes.

het123 · June 2003

I have a 2000 Prizm with just over 23K miles. I have had it into the shop three times for a squeaking noise coming from front driver's side tire area (only when going over bumps) and recently for a grinding/squealing when turning left at low speeds. The dealer keeps feeding me the "unable to duplicate" excuse eventhough I leave the shop and hear it as I turn left out of their dealership! At the last visit, I got another "unable to duplicate." They visually inspected and said all was well. Well, then they say on the receipt that it will need new front brakes on the next visit (around 25K miles). Has anyone ever heard of brakes needing done this early? I am not a heavy or aggressive braker and really think there may be more to this than the dealer is saying.

squeak6 · June 2003

I had the engine checked to see what was causing the light to come on and received the code P0420. Generic Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I think it may be due to me pulling off at the gas station with the cap off. I hope it does not come back on.... I may need a tune-up because the engine is a little loud. Will a tune up quiet down the engine noise?

My mileage is 178,984 for my 98 5-speed prizm.

alpha01 · June 2003

Did you buy your car new? How did you pile on the miles to that degree?

~alpha

squeak6 · June 2003

When I 1st purchased the car it only 7miles on it.... As you can see I do a lot of driving... I'll be at the 180,000 mark in about 2 weeks, sooner if I go up the road this weekend...

I'm just doing my best to keep her running. I need to get the seats cleaned as well as a good wax... Suggestions are always welcome on what I can do to keep her running smooth...

Squeak...

at3jazh1 · June 2003

From message 593:
> I got my 95 LSI 1.8 auto this Feb. Started about one month ago, we found it's hard to start, especially this first time of the day. Battery is fine, 'cause we jump started other cars, and hooked with a corolla didn't solve the start prolem. Later on we found press the accelerator helped little bit, since putting some gas in the cylinder before starting sounds reasonalbe. But just few days later, that trick no longer worked. We still have to try pressing either the brake or accelerator or nothing to get it started. It sounds like a starter problem. If so, how much does it cost? We can still get it started, just very hard the first time of day..... Thanks for any information/advices... =:)

I have the same problem on my Prism, need help.

jcc8 · July 2003

Just brought a 95 Geo Prism a week ago. After installing a radio, the next day both blinkers weren't working? Any suggestions on what could be the problem? The fuse & bulbs are still good.

jcc8 · July 2003

Replaced the flasher relay, still no lights? None of the signal, hazard & back up light works!!!!!!!!Please help..........

lrlprizm · July 2003

JCC: Sorry to hear of your flasher/blinker problems. Whoever installed your radio obviously disrupted your lighting circuitry. Rather than replace fuses, bulbs, etc., I'd work backwards from your radio installation, and see how the wires were routed. Obviously, some wires or connections were inadvertently cut or misrouted, which is causing your lights not to work. My guess is the power wire(s) somehow disrupted or interfered with your lighting switch or relay. With the proper instructions, installing a radio correctly isn't hard (I did it for my Prizm). You just gotta be sure you make all the right connections. If all else fails, put your old radio back. Good luck.

wz303 · July 2003

I just bought a 96 prizm with a 1.8L engine. The manual reads that I need to use unleaded fuel at least 87 or higher. I wonder if a higher grade fuel would really make any differences? Please give me some advice. Thank you.

lrlprizm · July 2003

Your '96 prizm is probably very similar to my '95 Prizm Lsi, also with the 1.8 engine. Here are my comments on what fuel to use after 8 years and 153k miles: With a higher grade fuel (i.e. 89 or 93 octane) your car will "feel" as if it has more horsepower. Is it necessary? No, but using a slightly higher octane does help in reducing some knocking (not uncommon with an older car). The difference between 93 and 89 octane isn't that noticeable, but you can definitely feel the difference between 87 and 89 octane. Folks differ on the attributes of higher octane, with current attitudes leaning towards NOT using higher octane if it isn't necessary; these folks say it's a waste of money. My recommendation is that a tank of higher octane every month or so will probably help, and cannot hurt. This becomes more evident as your car ages. For a newer car, the use of a higher octane fuel is certainly a waste. But for an older car, it can help. Good luck.

s_arvind · July 2003

1999 Chevy Prism
SRS Air bag started blinking when was only 16K, Dealer fixed it, it showed up again + High beam light blinks now it is 45k , now no warranty.
Pl. advise

asafonov · July 2003

I just got a car insurance bill in the mail, and it shows that my 02 Prizm is more expensive to insure (with the same terms) as dw's 03 Accord! Talked to an insurance agent, he explained that a Prizm is indeed in a more expensive "class". I did not ask him whether it was also true for a Corolla. I previously thought that a Prizm would be inexpensive to insure. I will shop other agencies, but this is something to consider if you are shopping for a recent vintage Prizm.

dragonball · August 2003

Hi, guys:

The right cv shaft of friend's prizm went wrong with leakage problem, a broken boot. The garage told me that it will cost 180 for changing the right cv shaft and 80 for left boot. Do you guys think this is reasonable price.

Also I would like to know how important this cv shaft is to the car's normal performance and driving safety.

I also found large areas of dirty oil (engine oil, i think)covering almost the entire surface of the engine. Would it be a potential problem for repairing. Since the car is kind of new to her, she has no idea if she wants to buy the car for 1100 dollars.

Thank you very much for timely answer and suggestions

prizmcoaster · August 2003

I've got a 1998 Prizm with 115,000 miles. I'm thinking I'll just keep on driving it until it dies. Maybe then I'll have the engine rebuilt for a short second life. It runs well. I'm on my 3rd dealer installed radio (burns up) and about my 3rd cigarette lighter (falls apart) but other than that the car is mostly flawless. Does everyone agree that Prizm is a car with such small resale value that it should be driven into the ground?
I'm such a conservative driver that I feel this is the only way I'll see the rewards of my coasting and light braking.

PC

lrlprizm · August 2003

DBALL: The costs you mentioned for the CV repairs sound very reasonable. The CV joint/shaft is VERY important to the operation of your vehicle. Don't skimp on this. Dirty oil on any old engine is common. If you're losing oil rapidly, the engine is nearing the end. If the engine is just dirty and you're not losing/leaking too much oil, that's OK. Old & shrunken gaskets is the main reason most engines leak.
(CONT)...
PRIZMCOASTER: I agree with your thinking on driving your car into the ground. The book value for most cars drop dramatically once you approach 100k. With proper maintenance, your engine will easily last 150k (mine is over 153k with no problems!); so.... I'm not so sure why you're already thinking about a rebuilt engine. Just keep your car properly maintained. Not sure why you're going through so many radios and cig lighters--probably some type of electrical problem. Good luck.

prizmcoaster · August 2003

I'm not really thinking about rebuilding the engine...only saying I may try that one day years from now when the car dies to try and resurrect it. It runs great now. You may be right about an electrical problem. If the radio burns up again, I'll insist that there must be an electrical problem they never addressed while it was under extended warranty. The cig lighter is crud...to small for any radar dectector or cell phone adaptor. Great car, I love it.
PC

squeak6 · August 2003

After about 3 weeks the Check engine light just went off... I'm not sure if this is good or bad? I'm now @ 184,672 miles on my 98 5-speed Prizm. Making last payment next month. I'll use the no car payment monies to get the seats cleaned and new wires for the spark plugs ( Maybe her first real wax ). as always anything I can do to keep my car running is greatly appreciated...

Squeak...

mcdawgg · August 2003

185,000 miles? Wow! What (if anything) has gone wrong with your Prizm? Exhaust original? Brakes? Timing chain? Clutch ok? What kind of miles are you driving? I have a '99 Corolla LE 5 speed. Thanks!

prizmcoaster · September 2003

I have a 1998 Prizm Lsi with 115,802 miles on it.
The "Brake" warning on the dash is coming on and going off intermittently. The manual said that it is dangerous to drive if this light is on. I could be hydraulic or some other problem. The manual said I may notice the pedal going to the floor, and I am. The brakes were redone by Goodyear @ 75,000 miles and redone by dealer @ 99,000. Can some give me a little more help here? How much is this going to cost. I regret letting Goodyear touch my brakes.

Thanks,
PC

lrlprizm · September 2003

Hi Squeak: At 185k miles, I wouldn't lose sleep over the stupid "check engine" light coming on. As I've previously addressed, this can mean a number of things, but I doubt it's serious. To my amazement, the light suddenly came on in my prizm after 153k miles. It's been coming on and off regularly now. I notice NO difference in engine performance. I've checked my car thoroughly, and nothing is wrong. Since we've piled so many miles on our cars, it isn't worth the money to "pull the codes" and possibly spend hundreds of dollars on a "repair" that really isn't necessary. In my latest episode, the light stayed on for over a day. I simply disconnected my battery and the light went out! Good luck, drive safely, and I'll see you the the 200k mile mark!

lrlprizm · September 2003

Hi Prizmcoaster: Hope you had your brakes fixed by now. The brake warning light is one you should take seriously. If it comes on intermittently, it might mean you're low on brake fluid, or some other problem. If your pedal is going to the floor, it means you're losing brake fluid somewhere. Check under the hood and under the car. Brake fluid is "sealed" in a closed system in a car. Any loss of fluid can result in diminished or no braking. If you find the source of the leak, you probably found your problem. In general, the brake system is a fairly easy system to diagnose and fix. Unless you brake aggressively, a good set of brake pads should last you 40 to 60k. Good luck.

prizmcoaster · September 2003

Hey how much do you think that brake repair will cost? I haven't brought it in yet. I'm not confident that I can fix it myself.

Thanks,
PC

lrlprizm · September 2003

Hi PC: Impossible to estimate the cost of your brake repair without knowing what's wrong. It could be the master cylinder, the vacuum booster, a leaking hose, a leaking caliper, etc. Or.. you could be just low on fluid. Have you been in an accident recently? Anything to suggest any parts of your brake system was damaged in any way? Are you having any problems with your parking brake? Do you check your brake fluid level regularly? Brake components usually don't have a high rate of failure. Even if you're not attempting a fix yourself, you can narrow down the cause of the problem with a few simple checks: Just pop your hood and check to see if your brake reservoir is leaking brake fluid. Look carefully, look at the brake lines: are any visibly damaged? Remove a wheel (tire); look at the hoses leading into the calipers and shoes--any leaks? You can do only so much, but a low pedal means you're low on fluid, which means--it's going SOMEWHERE. If your reservoir is low on fluid, add fluid. Did the light go out? The cause could be as simple as that. If you don't see anything amiss after all these checks, bring it to a mechanic, and good luck!

prizmcoaster · September 2003

Yea, I think that I'll have that checked at the dealer. The pedal isn't going to the floor ever lately but it does go further down. The light still comes on about once every 2 days.

prizmcoaster · September 2003

I had my interior door handle break and become inoperable. I've heard of others having this. I had this fixed about 18 months ago. Now the driver exterior door handle is sticking in the up position when I open the door. I have to forcebly push it shut before I close the door. What's up with these cheap parts? Anybody ever fix this on their own? Anybody know where to get replacement trunk clips? The dealer is giving me the runaround on this and it looks cheap when the trunk trim is just hanging there without the push in round holder things.

chiron713 · October 2003

Does anyone know if it is possible to add keyless entry to the base model of a 2001 Prizm? It does have power locks, do I just need to buy the keyless and program it? Thanks

deanc2000 · October 2003

Hello all,
I'm in the market for a used car. I'm a serviceman near a military base in Germany and there are only a limited number of US spec cars here to choose from in my price range ($10k-ish). I'm down to 2 cars which are the only realistic choice since they have really the ones with a warranty that is at all substantial. They both come with a 5/75,000 mile bumper to bumper.

The first one is a 01 Prizm, white and 3 SPEED AUTO, with power everything, cruise, 17,000 miles on it, and CD player for $9000.

The second one is an 02 Focus, also with power everything, CD player, cruise, and 10,000 miles on it, for a cost of $11,000.

I like the sportiness and unique looks of the Focus, it's OK on fuel economy, but the quality/reliability is infamous for this model, and this is what is holding me back from really being excited about it.

I like the reliability, and fuel economy of the Prizm, but the bland looks and the 3 SPEED auto trans are a turn off. Plus, I hear that the 3 speed has much lower mpg than the 4 speed. I would probably have no hesitation if it were a 4 speed with overdrive.

Can anyone give opinions as to which one they would choose were they in my shoes, and why? I will post this in the FOCUS forum also and see what they say. Thanks.

Dean

lrlprizm · October 2003

Deanc2000: I haven't checked what focus owners are saying about their cars, but I can certainly vouch for the prizm. To me, the decision comes down to this: A new, unproven car with a lousy track record of recalls & manufacturing problems v.s. a stodgy "bland" car with tremendous reliability, fuel economy, and excellent repair history. The answer is obvious. Since I'm no longer a teenager, flashy looks don't excite me as much as a car's reliability and dependability. A coworker of mine got talked into the focus by a sharp salesperson 2 yrs ago when she was car shopping; she's dreaded the decision ever since, having to return the car countless times for warranty repairs, and recall after recall. I don't know about you, but I don't like sitting in dealers' "waiting rooms." You're right the 3-speed prizm isn't a solid as the 4-speed, but years down the road, I'm sure you will NOT regret buying the prizm over the focus. The focus' track record already speaks for itself. My '95 prizm has 156k miles with no major repairs. I'm looking eagerly to crack the 250k mark (might be another 6-8 years). Good luck with your prizm!

regfootball · October 2003

I FACED THE FOCUS VS. PRIZM DECISION IN 2000, I BOUGHT A PRIZM BECAUSE THE FOCUS HAD JUST COME OUT AND COST A BIT MORE.

AFTER 3 YEARS I MUST SAY THE PRIZM WAS A GOOD CAR. TOTALLY RELIABLE AND A GOOD DRIVE. BUT MY SISTER GOT A FOCUS AND AFTER RIDING IN THAT CAR I MUST SAY I WAS UPSET A BIT ABOUT NEVER GETTING THE FOCUS, ITS ROOMIER AND MUCH MORE FUN.

prizmcoaster · October 2003

It turns out I was just low on brake fluid. They didn't charge me anything for that. My starter quit. That was $300 for the part and labor. Now I'm pretty much good to go fow a while I think. I'm hoping to get 175,000 to 200,000 miles out of the car. The car is still getting incredible mileage, especially now that the winter fuel mixture is back in the pumps.
  To the military guy, I wouldn't buy the 3 speed Prizm if you plan on doing anything more than ocassional highway driving. That 3 speed is annoying on the highway. You feel like you are torturing the engine. I rented one. I ended up being very impressed with the Prizm so that I bought one for my next car but I didn't like the 3 speed so I bought the 4 speed.
  The Focus is a decent car. It isn't as refined as a Prizm but you will like it fine.
  If you had a choice between a 4 speed Prizm and a Focus I might say go with the Prizm.

mn_pat · October 2003

Are the prizim and the corolla the same car? Did chevy\toyota take any cost saving measures on the prizim? Is there any reason to thing the Prizim is less quality that the Corolla.

I had an unfortunate incident with my Subaru today and find myself in the need of a new car. The Prizim looks like a good deal.

danielj6 · November 2003

Can someone inform me if GM is still building the Chevy Prizm? I searched in Edmunds "New Cars" section and to my disappointment they don't have it.

To the serviceman who posed the question Prizm-Focus, I strongly recommend that you choose the Prizm. My advice is based purely on dependability, and that to me means value over everything else.

Good luck with whatever you choose though!

mcdawgg · November 2003

No, the "Prizm" is no longer being built. But, it is really a Toyota Corolla with a GM name, so yes, it is being built.

The Pontiac Vibe (really a Toyota Matrix with a GM badge and a few other cosmetic GM touches) replaced it.

danielj6 · November 2003

Thanks mcdawgg for clarifying the issue for me!
I was reading in the Smart Shopper section several issues of new and used vehicle purchases, and when I read about the Prizm I became excited. Lasted for a few minutes though. I tried researching it and thought that the car may no longer be produced.

I'm not sure I'd buy the Pontiac Vibe though. I read mixed reviews, and it seems that more work needs to go into it. The Prizm, being a Corolla, came with a solid reputation.

By the way, I couldn't find the Smart Shopper section where Terry wrote so many good insights

pat · November 2003

danielj6 - to get to the Smart Shopper board, just use the "Browse by Message Board" drop down on the left side of the page.

There are so many different ways to find things in the Town Hall that sometimes it's almost too hard.

:-)

danielj6 · November 2003

I hang around at Edmunds so much that at times I become dizzy with the amount of reading I do.
It's however possible that I'm geographically impaired.

chumanfoos · November 2003

asafonov, lrlprizm or any others who know,

how does one find out if the automatic is a 3 or a 4? Can this info be ascertained visually? I am looking for an LSi model or a load base model and wnat to avoid a 3 speed auto at all cost. I also don't trust unscrupulous used cars salesmen.

Thanks in advance for your help.

eneth · November 2003

The 4-speed auto has an overdrive button on the shift lever. The 3-speed does not.

tomcat630 · November 2003

I went to Carmax to look at a Prizm LSi, but when I got there it was a plain 3 speed. They were like "whatever, it's a Prizm".

Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

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