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I agree, the materials, fit, and finish are world-class in the A4. They are fine cars. The A4 did lack one feature that I wanted - power for the passenger seat to facilitiate transporting senior citizens. Best regards and thanks for your input on the A4.
0-60 time in seconds - CVT: 7.8; manual, FrontTrak: 7.8; manual, quattro: 7.9; Tiptronic: 8.5
Top track speed: 130 mph, electronically limited
EPA fuel economy: CVT:23/29; manual FrontTrak: 22/31; manual quattro: 21/29; tiptronic: 20/28
This data suggests that the quattro does not drag down performance significantly. The quattro model with manual weighs only 150 lbs more than the manual FrontTrack model.
skrisik-- Some of us are quattroholics and wouldn't have it any other way. quattro* isn't only for bad weather driving but also enhances handling characteristics in all kinds of conditions which inspires confidence on dry pavement as well. To me, there's nothing more satisfying than the feeling that I'm being propelled down the road with power to all four wheels ...all four contact points to the ground are being powered and can be depended upon whenever the time should arrive when it's essential to have that power at any of those contact points. I won't get into the technical aspects but for me, AWD just inspires confidence in any situation which handling is important and has the sensation of a rock solid, glued-to-the-road feeling which I never have experienced in any FWD or even RWD cars which I've owned in the past. If you live in an area where it snows, then that's all the more reason to consider going with quattro. And, as nerd has pointed out, the quattro components themselves will only add the weight of less than an average sized person (150lbs.). Many of us believe it's a no-brainer ...quattro defines Audi! --it shouldn't be any other way. Good luck and come back and post here when you make a decision. Nobody will yell and scream at you should you decide to go with FrontTrak.;)
* = quattro is spelled with a lower case "q"
--'rocco
The almost insignificant diff between a CVT or manual w/FWD and the manual version quattro is more than made up in the overall performance of the car (and this is assuming that you would NOT get a tip version with the 1.8T and quattro -- although it would perform adequately).
Add to the 1.8T a turbo chip (and make it a mild one) and the power and torque of the 1.8T becomes truly awesome (again please consider the manual transmission for maximum fun factor). The chip will be less than $600.
Of all the cars out there that you can get -- the 1.8T A4 quattro with sport package and a manual tranny is the biggest performance and safety bang for your buck. It is a "gift" from AoA -- nothing else (again equipped as stated) comes close. I know there are some Subaru folks who will probably disagree -- and perhaps from a strictly speed related POV they are accurate.
But an Audi so configured has refinement that the Subbie lacks and as mentioned, some of the performance difference between the Subbie and the Oodie are diminished greatly with that little chip. But no practical amount of money can get the Subaru to the level of refinement that the Audi has -- in mass quantities.
quattro -- repeat after me, quattro, quattro, quattro
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I found the G35 seat uncomfortable and constricting- too much like a cockpit.
I liked the Audi much better.
Any thoughts on getting the 1.8 vs 3.0? I live in LA, but I plan to take it back to the east coast eventually and I wonder whether I should go for a 1.8 with quattro or 3.0CVT. The cost of a 3.0 quattro is prohibitive.
I'm still deciding between lease vs buy. Too bad the 2.9% offer expired. Anyone hear of any new offers coming up? I can wait several months so time is not a huge factor.
Do you mind if I ask where you bought your car and if you were able to negotiate the price much?
Did you consider the 3.0 at all?
Quattro was non-negotiable for me, and like you I found the loaded 3.0 quattro to be too expensive (more than the base A6).
You can get an A6 at invoice (or even a little less), but deals on the A4 are less generous. I managed to negotiate down to $1500 below MSRP, but had to add $250 to the final price to get it shipped from the San Francisco dealer who had the only car with the color and options I wanted.
If you want a great deal, go to Bevery Hills Audi. The sales guy offered me the 3.0 at $800 above invoice, which was the lowest profit margin that I found. But I ended up buying elsewhere because, at the time, the 2.9% offer was expiring on that day and the BH Audi salesman didn't get back to me on time. Plus, other circumstances required me to buy either on that day or not at all. So, I paid, I think $1100 above invoice at a different dealership.
seth
Billy
They sent me $250 which covered my deductible.
I made a claim on my comprehensive (I think it was that, perhaps it was collision) insurance and got a new Audi A8 17" wheel, which, as I recall was breathtakingly expensive (even back in 1998).
I ordered the wheel immediately even though it took about 30 days for the check to come from the state.
Oh yea, I needed two new tires, too.
Case closed.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
The law -- and this was on an Interstate -- says that the highways are to be maintained in a fashion that will not cause damage to vehicles.
A carefully worded letter, after I looked up the law was all that was needed. Now, I assume that it is possible that MD and KY have different laws -- but if you haven't made the claim, how do you know? And, the claim MUST be in writing and you must tell them where the pot hole is and they also must fix the pothole.
On the other issue, won't your insurance, minus your deduct. pick up the charge?
I'll tell you another story about hitting something on the higway.
I was following an old GM car on I275 here in Cincinnapolis -- as I was driving along, I notice the rear muffler of the car bobbing up and down up and -- son of a gun the muffler dropped off of the car and hit my left front tire. Immediate blow out, bent wheel, bent tie rod and bent bolt. Over $1,300 in total expense.
If YOU hit the muffler (or whatever) it is your fault. If the muffler hits you, as happened in this case, it is the other person's fault and even if you can't find them (which I could not, under the circumstances) it is picked up by insurance as if there was an uninsured motorist.
The thing is, 99.999% of people say, "I hit a muffler on the interstate" -- dumb luck, the muffler came flying off of the car and hit me and I told the story that way.
And I did it in WRITING.
Live and learn.
Hope this experience has some relevance and/or provides some help to anyone who reads this.
Good luck.
Just e-mail me-(click Marleybarr) and I will give you a list of about 15 Audi parts suppliers to price out the Audi rim replacement.
What car were you driving when that unfortunate accident happened?
Just think about this for a second, if quattro gives you better traction in wet/slippery road condition. Wonder what that would do if the road is dry? Heh.
If the slight penalty in acceleration bothers you you probably don't want an Audi in the first place.
Quattro gives a car nearly neutral handling on dry pavement and incredible grip and directional stability. If you doubt try it, you'll like it.
Quattro is the reason why nearly all WRC cars now are awd (even tho Audi no longer participates) and why most forms of auto racing ban awd as an "unfair advantage".
The only bad thing about q is handling is so secure it's almost boring to some and there's a mileage penalty, perhaps 1-2 mpg.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Yes it weighs a tiny bit more than a non quattro.
The main thing quattro does under any circumstances and on any surface is provide increased control.
Quattro -- and I say that as the proprietary term -- gives the driver many of the benefits of a front wheel drive car and a rear wheel drive car.
After going through the Audi driving school in Austria (which is on snow for the sole purpose that the exercises can be done a slower speeds than if they were being attempted on dry pavement), I can assure you that while the Audi's tendencies are to understeer, that they can be made to oversteer (which means you can set the car up in a drift or so-called power slide wherein you are driving by the throttle).
All the good things that you can imagine about a quattro are applicable to any road surface condition (wet or dry, that is). Also any bad thing you can think of (hard to do, I know) about quattro are applicable to wet and dry road conditions.
All wheel drive is great overall -- quattro is the best of the all wheel drive systems (that mere mortals can afford).
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
I also hit a muffler (I hit it- it didn't hit me) laying in the road and it cracked my oil pan-the car had to be towed in. Luckily, I was driving an '88 Olds wagon at the time and the repair was only about $300.00. I shudder to think what an oil pan repair on the A6 would run!
I'm trying to tell if an A4 is an option pricewise for me.
Good luck.
After you complete these three configurations, click on the button that says finance or lease or buy or whatever word they have on the site at this time.
Then answer the miles per year question for the lease, assume 0 down and press calc and there will be the number that will be the maximum you will pay.
Do this several more times, until you reach a level of comfort that you understand the effects of the option combinations and permutations on the mo payment.
Then, as long as your patience holds out, decrement the cap cost of the car by whatever amount makes you feel "reasonable" -- start with 3% (i.e., take the configurator number and multiply it by .97) and drop at 1% levels until you reach that number that you will absolutely positively lease the car for.
This, theoretically is THE best time to acquire a car (Jan - Feb). All the financing stars are in alignment, too.
If the car is -- for the sake of easy math -- MSRP'd at $30,000 and the lease number that is your personal MAXIMUM comes up at 94% of sticker ($1800 off of $30K that is) -- go for it.
While certainly no sure thing, this technique requires only YOUR personal investment of perhaps an hour of your valuable time. You can begin to get a pretty good sense of what your payment will be.
The differences between cars and deals and such are always in flux. If you do your manipulations today and wait 3 weeks to do the deal, well the lease payment may be higher, may be lower.
Early in the year, the residual value of the cars are generally higher which contributes to a lower payment. Later in the year, cap costs often lower, even though residuals lower too -- and this too can contribute to reducing the payment.
In the new-normal we now live in -- who knows. If consumer confidence is high and the war with Iraq or not "goes well" and it is a day of the week ending in the letter "R" and the moon is in the seventh house, well your milage may vary.
I have found, seriously, that the AoA configurator will/can arm you with the information you need to neither steal from the dealer nor be stolen from (not in the literal sense, of course).
Have fun!
Instead, I wound up driving off the lot with a model that they were looking to move.
The specs:
19 miles on the odometer
A41.8 quattro
17"wheels
premium package
Xenon headlights
Cold weather package
Denim Blue
Purchase price $30,000.
I think this was a fair price and even though I would have preferred the black, I think the color is no big deal. So far, a sweet ride.
I assume you're talking about a 3.0. The Turbos do have issues with ignition coils.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Also my '01 allroad at 32,000 miles has been a very reliable car so far, with just one unscheduled problem in two years. It's been a perfect "family car" for our needs, and with the increased room, much improved performance (especially with chip installed) and towing capability I plan to keep it at least several more years.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Better Ride, but less room
Power Seats
Auto Climate Control
Free Maintance for 4yrs 50k (how much is this worth?)
Quattro for addt'l $15 (VW must go with V6)
Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Got it for $807 over invoice with 2.9% for 60 months. The dealer charged me the base MSRP of $27,850 even though the Audi website shows the base MSRP increasing to $28,000. So, either he was somehow unaware of the increase or there really was no increase. I guess he figures he is making about $1057 over invoice, but it is really about $807 over invoice if the base MSRP actually increased. Either way, I'm pleased with the price.
The only problem is that it will not be delivered for 60-120 days, but they couldn't locate an existing vehicle similar to the one I wanted so it had to be ordered.
Another highlight is that I didn't put down any deposit for the special order (many dealers require a $500-$1000 deposit when you order a vehicle).
I think it is a good deal.....any comments?