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Comments
I run on 98 octane. I think my problem is the low rev torque.
Car fells reasonable once the revs go over 2500-2700. And I simply like cruising around the town in 5-th gear.
My dream is to get new S4 V-8 and drop twin turbo in it. I think I will leave my 1.8T alone for the next year and than swap it for S4. I wonder if upgrade turbo kits are out for those by now.
I have a 1997 A4 1.9TDi with 275000 on th the clock.The car is going the best but there is a problem with acceleration. When there is any kind of loading on the engine ie going up hill on motor way or driving on wet roads the acceleration cuts out at 70mile/hour. (60miles in fourth gear) the throttle is still there and the rev counter still goes up but there is no power it feels like the turbo just cuts out.Once the power goes the only way to get it back is to switch the engine of and restart. Full power is restored then immediately. Like i say its seems to happen when the engine is under extra loads and only occurs in 4th and fifth gear . Does anyone know what is causing this?What can i do to rule out the electronic throttle as i have been told is a possible cause.?
Is the 2002 Audi A4 1.8 T quattro the lemon of the group or should I still seriously consider buying this car. Any help would be extremely helpful
Coolant leak: The oil cooler is prone to turning during oil filter removal, which causes damage to the coolant lines resulting in a coolant leak. (2002)
Electrical problem: Water leaks into wiring harness near the A-pillar causing assorted problems such as the remote will not lock/unlock the door, the windows won't work, the interior lights may stay on occasionally, and the door ajar warning may glow even though the doors are shut. (2002)
None: The throttle body control valve tends to sludge up on the 1.8L turbo engine causing a very low or uneven idle. (2002)
Juejuebie
(2002.5 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro)
I have to exact same problem with my A3 TDI. Did you get an answer to this problem? Any advise would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Just got a 99 A4. Cool car and all that, but I recently had a dead battery issue. I tried to jump it using another car which turned on but I had to replace it because it was completely drained. I installed the new battery, but now the engine rpm is not holding steady at idle. When the car is warmed up and in "park", the rpm oscillates up and down and sometimes it turns off. Otherwise it drives fine. Did I damage anything electronic? Need your help and thanks in advance.
There are two car seats in back, one belt always connected.
Anyone know what that is for?
when temperature drops well below freezing, my calipers seem to be freezing... my entire commute (10 miles) there is constant vibration (pretty violent), major lag when i let up off the gas (even in 6th gear), brakes are extremely sensative when i touch them (assuming this is so because the rear brakes are already gripping) and when i park and get out of the car, there is a strong burning smell (smells like very overworked brake pads). the problem always goes away by the time i get in the car for my commute home (assuming everything warms up and stops sticking).
brought it to the dealer twice when it was happening but of course when they finally got around to test driving it, the car was fine, so they don't know what it is. they replaced the emergency brake coard but that wasn't the problem... i experienced it again this morning.
anyone esle have this problem? ...please help. love the car, but this is killing me!
thanks,
mike
Meanwhile, refrain from using the parking brake when it's really cold but don't forget to put the car in gear when parked.
P.S. If replacing the cable didn't cure the problem it's prolly cause there's water getting onto the cable and then freezes and causes the sticking.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
When I traded it in at 123k needed a new airbag module but was otherwise in good shape. Be aware that routine maintainence and parts are expensive and that Quattro equipped cars are hard put to get more than 25K from a set of tires.
Best of luck with your purchase.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
How big is the reliability difference between the two engines?
I'm not into modifying vehicles... so I don't need an engine with great tuning ability.
Ted
A friend is offeringme a '99 1.8T with 80K miles for about $5000. He claims no electrical problems. Sometimes older designs are more reliable, is that the case with the '99 1.8T? This owner is the meticulous type. He says the only problem is the front lower control arms which were squeaking. Audi shafted him on the recall so he won't buy another Audi. He says the squeaking just went away and the car drives fine, it is a 5-speed. His car has minimal options. He did mention he had one rear caliper acting up. I do trust him.
I need to get 3 years of relatively low cost motoring out of it. I try to get 200K miles out of my cars. (My Pontiac threw a rod yesterday at 179K.) I have access to a low cost mechanic and can scrounge parts myself, NAPA has rebuilt control arms for $123 each.
Am I nuts for considering this car? Does it have the same reliability issues as the later ones with regard to electrical gremlins & oil sludge etc?
Will this car bury me? What should I watch out for? How long do the turbos, motors and transmissions last? I drive a lot so a car constantly under repair costs me twice- once for the repair & again for the lost time. Should I just run like hell & just buy another crap Pontiac? [non-permissible content removed] cars are kind of out as I call on US automakers. For some reason they are more forgiving if you drive a German car.
Thanks,
Bill
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Also, what are advantages or disadvantages of tiptronic
transmission? Read somewhere that it results in higher fuel consumption and slower acceleration? Any benefits?!
I live in Michigan, so driving in snow is consideration.
Well, do you want FWD or AWD? Lots of factors involved in this decision... Certainly AWD is a benefit to getting going in snow. If you've had FWD cars and haven't had a problem in the past, then consider the FWD, and maybe even consider getting a set of winter tires (they make a BIG difference!) The dry pavement handling will fill slightly difference, especially if you like to hit the gas a little into turns...
Also, what are advantages or disadvantages of tiptronic
transmission? Read somewhere that it results in higher fuel consumption and slower acceleration? Any benefits?!
The AWD will get 1-2 mpg lower than the FWD. Not a huge difference.... When I drove the 1.8T with the automatic transmission, I thought it was dreadfully sluggish. The manual, IMO, was much snappier. Turbo lag was much more noticeable in the auto.
The side edge of my 2002 A4 rear-light-panel can be lifted up(it is held in place with two pressure-fitted rubbber-fastners)with a putty knife or small screw driver. Then on the inside of the trunk opening on the side-trim-panel is a small round cover that can be opened from the rear side. Inside is a Phillips-head/8mm socket screw that needs to be unscrewed before the entire light panel will open.
The bulb specs are found on the light holder, but beware that the Sylvania Bulb book found in most auto supply stores did not have accurate cross reference information for my vehicle.
Maybe someone will come up with the solution for the front bulbs.
Hope this helps.
I would seriously consider buying anything but an Audi. My car is now about 2.5 years old (bought it new - on the showroom floor - with 4 miles on it) and I've replaced every headlight, tail light, turn signal, and now the "regulator" - all electrical problems. The regulator (because my driver's side window will not work properly will cost ~ $350. The car is a lemon and everyone I work with that has one (6 people - years 1998 - 2005) have various problems and it's costing them an arm and a leg to keep up with. They're great looking cars and I love the way mine handles (2004 A4 1.8T Quattro), but it's too costly and too much of a pain to keep up with.
Good luck,
Kelly
Later
944boy
From Drew
I have had 2 A4 1.8Ts, originally a 2000 model year (which I bought new and my brother still drives everyday reliably with over 300,000 on the odometer, plus my current car which is a 2004 model year with 85,000 on it.
Both have been extremely reliable as I have not experienced the problems that everyone has heard.
I have driven the 1.8T as well as the 2.8 many many times, I would get the 2.8 if you are going to go with an automatic, otherwise I would pick the 1.8T with the 5 or 6 speed any day of the week. On top of a more sports car feel, you can chip the 1.8T from 150 or 170 to about 208bhp. Which is what I have done, and that changes the whole dynamic of "turbo".
Ed.
Neither car had any major repairs other than oil, gas, brakes, tires etc... except the 2000 needed a new radio after 200K and 3 years (replaced very economically I may add through a dealer swap program) and the 2004 did have a transmission replaced under warranty early in the warranty period with no hassles (in fact it was the dealer that found the problem, I was just in for an oil change).
I highly recommend it, enjoy!!!
The Audi dealer says I have a hole blown out of the engine. He refuses to say how it happened, but did say that no oil was circulating in the engine. Now, he wants me to pay $12,000.00 for a new engine, even though I had kept my car in great condition, changed the oil, used top of the line synthetic oil (as instructed), and just had my last scheduled service 2 months ago.
I called Audi of America for assistance, but they absolutely refuse to help me. Their customer service is a sham. They have a bunch of unknowledgeable operators who just take information. They will call the dealer and if the dealer refuses to help you, then Audi won't help you either.
The problem was not of my making, it was a problem endemic to the 1.8 liter engine. Audi has apparently had a long history of problems with the 1.8 liter engine and oil starvation (among other problems - belts, etc.), but won't replace your engine if it blows up after it reaches the 50,000 mile warranty limit. I am left without a car and must either buy another vehicle or pay a huge sum to get the Audi fixed. I wouldn't drive another Audi if it were given to me.
got a great deal from the dealer including a bumper to bumper warranty for 4 yrs and 48k miles...yep, an out of warranty car is now completely covered, and the warranty cost me next to nothing (this is goes way beyond the CPO warranty they offer). i did my research and got a screaming deal on this after negotiating with the dealer - i went as far talking to several of the sales people and with the managers so that when it comes in for service, i'm not just dealing with them as car sellers but more of a bunch of friends. the dealership was fantastic, and possibly the least pushy staff i have ever encountered at a car dealership. it was refreshing since i had been test driving cars for a month and began to loathe going to any dealer. another plus...Audi is replacing the rims (previous owner scratched them while parking) and back bumper (because of a tiny scratch i couldn't even see...but they say it happened when they were moving the car on the lot so it must be replaced - now that's honesty and service). not sure if i can mention the dealership name here...
i've wanted this car for a while and waited until the year, color, engine, trans, accessories, etc were exactly what i wanted and could afford...i think the 2002-2005 platform look is the best Audi has made. the new large-mouth bass grill for 2006 is okay but the previous version is a 10 for looks inside and out - i think the wagon is far more attractive than the sedan, which is no slouch itself. driving dynamics are great and the sport suspension makes any stretch of open road or sweeping turn a pleasure to blast through. while only a bit less refined than a bmw engine, the 3.0 v6 with tiptronic is great and has plenty of power. not to mention 22-28 miles per gallon at 75-80 on the highway. because of Audi's drive-by-wire electronic throttle, using the cruise control improves gaas mileage on the freewat by 4-6 mpg over using your foot the whole time.
i'm not completely star-struck here...i know German cars a bit (have had 3 of them now...MB, BMW, and the Audi) and expect some little gremlins to develop given the high level of technology in the car. but with my warranty, i won't have to pay to play. to give you an idea, i spent nearly as much in repairs last year for my outgoing 1990 Mercedes wagon (out of warranty) as i will in car payments on this newer Audi. i loved the Benz wagon for its size and feel on the road, but it was simply getting ridiculous to spend $1000 for repairs a few times a year on a car worth less than $10k. but for a car with over 150k on the odometer, the car still drives/maintains very well. not even Mercedes makes cars like that anymore, with a llifetime measured in decades not years. the Benz can easily go another 150k on the motor, so i didn't have to get rid of it if i didn't want to.
tip...when test driving a car, drive the exact same car (if possible) on several different days at different times of the day including at night to get the feel for it. this will also let you determine how comfortable you are with the view, the cockpit and controls (is everything within reach? and lit at night for use?), the dynamics of the suspension (drive over some potholes, speed bumps, etc...expansion joints on sothern California freeways is a good test of any car's composure at high speed) and how well the engine responds in different scenarios - merging onto the freeway or merging into city traffic on a busy street. watch the gas gauge as you drive too...is the engine gulping gas when you drive hard around town? a half hour to hour long test drive will let you know...if the dealer is reluctant to do this, spring for the cost of the gas yourself, and then be weary of a dealer that won't spend a few bucks on gas to sell a $20k plus car.
overall, i am very happy with the entire experience and the car too. my apologies to Audi owners who got a "bad one." it happens with every manufacturer, especially the higher end cars loaded with gizmos. that is the price you pay for having a car that is more than just transportation. if i didn't enjoy driving so much, i would have gotten a different car and saved some money.
put it/keep it under warranty, test drive the heck out of it (i test drove the car i bought three separate times over the course of a week totaling about 2-3 hours behind the wheel), and enjoy.
I encountered the similar experence you had with the A4 last night. It happened at I-5 Washington States while I was driving back to Canada. The situation similar to your description. Since it just happened last night, I have not contacted the Audi service yet. Don't know what they would tell me. What happened to your car now? Did you pay the engine repair cost? My vehicle just did the 300+ point inspection and certification process a month ago, I am hoping that the dealer can takes the responsibilities for that. Also when I do the search about this engine oil signal, I found this article. http://www.canadiandriver.com/roadtest/96-01a4.htm The key point is Audi issued technical service bulletins on this problem and has extended the warranty to eight years with unlimited mileage on the 1.8T engine for all Audi A4s built between 1997 and 2004. The extended warranty is transferable. Owners who have experienced engine damage and paid for repairs can request reimbursement for those repairs provided they can prove the appropriate oil was used and changed at the intervals recommended in the owner's manual.
If you were not aware this before, hope this help.
Josephine
Also wanted to tell the folks with engine troubles - I complained to Audi about my electrical problems (took about 4 weeks for an answer) and they agreed to reimburse me for the replacement of the "regulator" for my window. This was my most recent expense. Others were under warranty. They agreed to pay for the part, but not the labor. Better than nothing. I did have to complain to everyone though before they "looked" into the issue.
Thanks!
Kelly