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Mazda 626



  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I got a quote of $ 570 from my local Mazda dealer. This was for replacement of the timing belt and three oil seals only. This did not include three idler pulleys at $ 160 a piece, waterpump at $ 120 plus labor, timing tensioner at $ 190, or replacement of the valve cover gaskets, (which is by itself about $ 400 job including parts because of the amount of work required to remove and reinstall the intake manifold), or drive belt pulley bearings.


    If you have a Mazda dealer do this work, you will not have the option of using aftermarket belt idler pulleys if you need them, so you will have to pay them additional $ 480 for a set of three. And if you replace the water pump, you must also replace the engine antifreeze mix.


    As I mentioned before, Autozone sells a timing belt kit for Mazda 626 V6. It is a good quality kit, made in the USA by Goodyear company (part # GTK0214). This kit contains a timing belt and all three idler pulleys (but no tensioner, which is Mazda exclusive and retails for $ 190).


    What is unusual about the 626 V6 timing belt is that there is a dip and an idler between two cam sprockets. This makes the belt reinstallation much more difficult because you have to pull the belt tight over both cam sprockets, and bolt the no 1 idler pulley on while pushing down on the belt. Starting the bolt in the block is hard and there is danger in crossthreading it. On the plus side, the cams stayed in their positions after the old belt was removed, unlike my Protege, in which case I had to line up the cam sprockets with the timing marks and hold each with a wrench against the valve spring tension while installing the belt.


    Well, at least I did install the belt and waterpump correctly. The car started immediately and idled as smoothly as before. No oil leaks or coolant leaks. the waterpump on this engine uses a moulded O-ring for a gasket. You must be very careful not to pinch this O-ring while installing the pump, or you will get a massive coolant leak when you start the car and will have to redo the entire timing belt job again.


    A friend of mine had his engine destroyed on a Mazda 323 when somebody overtorqued the crankshaft pulley bolt with an impact wrench. The end of the crankshaft split, causing massive oil leak and seizing of the engine. This is why I recommend the use of a torque extension with an impact wrench or a special tool which enables one to hold the crankshaft pulley stationary while torquing the bolt. (I still have such tool for Mazda Protege, but it will not fit the 626 V6 engine.)


    In another local case, a man took his Toyota Tacoma pickup to Pep Boys for timing belt replacement. They apparently installed the belt incorrectly and tried to compensate by altering the ignition timing. His truck is still messed up and now it will not start.


    I definitely do not recommend doing this job by yourself if you do not have the proper tools and mechanical knowledge. And if you have somebody else do it, please take it to a reputable mechanic. I trust our local Mazda dealership mechanics, even if they charge high rates for labor.


    The most agravating factor for this job on this car is lack of space and access. You have only few inches of room to work with. Removing the intake manfold involves unplugging just about every electrical harness connector and vacuum line in the engine compartment, so you need to label these for proper reinstallation. And of course, they use a manifold support bracket in the rear of monifold where you cannot see it, so there is always one more line to detach, or one more bolt to remove. Also recommend bagging the bolts and screws, as there will be a lot of them.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    Hi all im in the market again and I ran over two Mazdas that caught my eye, one is the 929 the interior and the larger engine brought me to that one, the other is the 626 the interior isnt as plush but its ok and a stick would be preferable with a V-6. Now with im guessing 100k miles on them used what can I expect to go wrong? These are the first Mazdas I have ever considered buying and I am serious about it but I am just worried about the long term cost, especialy the Auto tranny on the 929. Im working with a 6.5k budget so they would be mid 90's with around 100k on them, I will not go with a 4 cylinder modle.


    Also how do they handle? I know the 929 is RWD and the 626 is FWD does that create a very noticeable differance.. because most likly i will be trying to cut the apex on that corner in the mountain...
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    after researching a bit it seams as though the 929 has alot of tranny drive train problems, this is discouraging because I liked the interior the most...
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    If you are looking for reliability, get a 626 with a manual transmission, either a 4 cylinder or a V6. For a car with about 100K miles the most important thing is the condition of the car. Be prepared to spend some money on repairs, such as CV joint boot replacement.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Currently Autozone has a special on the Bosch MicroEdge wiper blades. If you buy two, you get $ 5 off. I recently bought a set for my '99 Mazda 626 and so far I am very pleased with the performance. These are the best wiper blades I ever had on any car! You need a 19 inch blade for the driver's side and a 20 inch blade for the passenger side. The cost for two blades is about $ 15. You cannot even get a pair of refills from your Mazda dealer for that! The installation is very simple - simply push the new blades onto the wiper arm hook mounts.
  • Hi. I'm new to this site. I own a 89 626 which I love dearly. It has 180k but it's been a great car to me. Lately, I've been having high rev problems with my engine. When I start the engine or I'm standing in a traffic light sometimes the engine revs up to 2000 rpm. Someone said that I should replace my distributor. Anyone having this problem?



  • I sold my 626 a year ago and I still miss it. I bought a 1998 model in 2001 from the first owner with just under 50,000 miles. I sold it with just under 100,000 miles. I never had any trouble with it at all; in fact, the only work I did to it was brakes and CV joints (at 80k miles).


    It was an ES-V6 with a five speed. Very smooth, very comfortable, very fast. Every now and then I call the guy who bought it and ask how it's doing, and I regret it even more as he has done nothing to it yet! Seller's remorse... If you have one of these hold on to it!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I have a 99 ES V6 5 speed manual with 107K miles, which I bought new. I have never been able to sell mine for any satisfactory amount, so I am keeping it. I advertised this car several times, but never received even a single phone call, and dealer trade-in offers were an insult each time.

    Now I seriously believe that this car is greatly unappreciated by potential used car buyers - a 4 cylinder beat up Honda Accord with twice the mileage sells for more than a mint condition 626 ES V6.


    Now I do not mind driving this car because I have had no problems for a long time. And the seats are very comfortable.


    Can I ask how much did you sell yours for?
  • I asked one dealer about it and they flat told me I'd be better to sell it myself; with that many miles they'd just wholesale it, so I'd get less than predicted auction value. I think people get turned off by the miles, not realizing it is just as reliable as Honda/Toyota, or don't appreciate the difference the V6/5-speed combo makes in this car.


    In December of 2003 I advertised something along these lines:


    "1998 626 ES-V6 rare 5-speed, 100k, all power, maint, roof, ABS, trac, exc cond $6,000 obo"


    I only got one phone call, a man and his college-bound son. They came straight out and were on the test drive for 20 minutes. When they came back they didn't even get out of the car, he rolled down the window and said it was geared very low. He asked if they could get it out on the interstate (about 5 miles away) to see how it drove, as his son was going to be on the highway alot; so I said "fine." They were back in about 45 more minutes and as soon as he got out he said "I guess we need to talk money."


    I let it go for $5700. If I could go back, I'd give myself $1,000 not to sell it! What an idiot.
  • I'm with all the owners of Mazda 626. It's a great car and I would not sell it b/c I know I would not get the fair resale value it deserves. As a matter of fact, my 98 626 has over 180K miles. It zips about a quart between each oil change and the engine idle is often quite high (over 2000 rpm), but it still runs great and the gas mileage is just as good or better than my 2000 Civic! How's that for a 17 year old car?


    I'm even thinking about replacing the engine with a rebuilt engine. It will cost me around $2000 to replace it, but I don't think I can buy a car that trustworthy for that kind of money. Besides, once I fall in love, I don't fall out of love (know what I mean!). I'm keeping mine until the car falls apart. This summer, I'm planning to do a cross country from East coast to West coast. That will prove to all you doubters to place your faith to where it belongs. Keep posted. By the way, anybody have any solution to the high rpm problem? Thanks.


  • Hi we just purchased a 98 Mazda 626 last weekend. We are happy with it but something feels a little loose in the suspension. When we hit a bump it sounds kind of funny and a little vibration. Could this be the CV joints or struts or shocks? Thanks dpw
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Probably not CV joints, more likely struts or perhaps sway bar links. I had to replace both rear sway bar links on my 94 626, they caused a lot of funny noises over bumps. Don't know if your noise or vibration is coming form the front or rear.


    If it is the front, it could be front sway bar links, ball joints, or struts.


    I would be pretty easy for a trusted mechanic to put it up on a lift & check these things out.


  • awc01awc01 Posts: 1
    I have a 97 626 5 speed with about 145k on it. Bought it with 119 k and have had no problems besides the check engine light and high RPMs. Seems to me these are quite common problems. Here's my question I m planing on doing the left CV joint this weekend. Im a fairly accomplished wrench turner, just not on this car. Do I need any special tools or expertise? I can have it done for around 200 at any independent garage, but dont like to spend $ on something I know I can do. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions from anyone? Any ideas on the engine light and high rpm's?
  • scannscann Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 which is bucking. The first year I had no problems. The bucking occurs when slowing (to turn a corner) and then you accelerate. Mazda service can't find anything wrong with it. The used car manager is the only person that can make the car buck besides me. I have taken the car in at least 4-5 times. I have written two letters to Mazda on how dissatisfied I am with this car. They are telling me it is my driving habits! I am 48 years old and have had many cars, this is the only car that I have had that bucks. It is not my driving habits! I bought this car brand new off the lot and if I could afford to be without my car I would paint it yellow and park in front of the dealership. They offer nothing to make things right. I hate this car.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I had a Ford Contour that had the same problem. I had just purchased the car used. Now, if you have the 4 cylinder 626-it is the SAME TRANSMISSION (CD4E) as the Ford Contour. Now, I went through this for months. It was narrowed down to an internal electrical problem inside the transmission. I wish I had some good news for you, but they could never exactly pin-point this problem. I ended up trading the car in and losing about 3K! Good luck!
  • Hello

    I have 99 626 lx v6, check engine light, EGR MALFUNCTION, not sure if I need to pay $349 for replacement or just try to clean it. Need help.
  • I have 99 626 lx v6, check engine light, EGR MALFUNCTION, not sure if I need to pay $349 for replacement or just try to clean it. Need help.
  • Where can I find the part numbers for all the engine mounts of my Mazda 626 1997 ???
  • scannscann Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information. Actually I have a 6 cylinder. Would that be the same as a Ford Contour transmission? I will also probably end up trading this car in. I am very dissatisfied with not getting any help from Mazda Corp. or the dealership where I purchased the car. I could understand some problems if I purchased used but I bought this car brand new off the lot.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Nope, it's my understanding that the V6 has a Mazda designed transmission in it. There are a few really good sources on the web for th 626 and the transmissions for these cars. I have them bookmarked, but the rules of use state I can't give you "competing websites". But if you do a "google search" you will find them!
    Good luck!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The EGR valve could be cleaned if it is sticking due to carbon buildup on its stem. However, if the vacuum diaphragm is dmaged, then the valve muyst be replaced. There are several electrical solenoids in the EGR valve circuit, so it is important to know what is the real problem.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You should check your CV boots at least every 10K miles (after about 70K original miles)because even if the boots are in good shape, the clamps may come loose and in this case the boot will start slinging grease. This happened to my car recently. No big deal - the clamps are only a few bucks , and I also bought CV joint grease for about $ 1.80. You need a special tool for crimping the new clamp - Auto Zone rents them for free with a deposit. I removed the old loose clamps, slid the old boot down the axle shaft, repacked the CV joint with proper grease (there was no dirt in because the boot was not torn), slipped the boot back on and crimped the new clamps on. I used the "ear" type clamp on both ends of the boot.

    Some say that it is a good idea to spray CV boots with silicone periodically to make them pliable and keep them from cracking and subsequent splitting.
  • Hello,

    I have the exact same problem on my 99 ES V6. Did any one give you a good answer on cleaning it? I am getting replacement costs all over the place. One repair shop quoted me 900.00 for the part and 225.00 for labor!
  • Must be a V6 thing. OEM EGR valve on my four-banger is around $150 and takes less than an hour of labor.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The V6 EGR valve retails for around $ 300 from Mazda. I would believe the $ 900 figure if they replaced every component in the EGR control circuit. As I said before, there are several control solenoids in the circuit. You do not want to replace all parts hoping that one of them was defective. They can be individually tested.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    I would try to clean it are instructions on how to do it:

    Cleaning it is quite simple, providing that you have the right tools. It's best you use some compressed air, some TB cleaner and some safety goggles. First off, you want to take off the thottle body by removing the 4 bolts that hold it down and disconnect the various cables, connectors and hoses that hold it down.

    Now disconnect the the EGR hose and the EGR position sensor connector wire. Before removing the unit, make sure that you do a vaccum check to assure that it's holding a vaccum('98 and newer models don't have to worry about that, being that it's electronicly controlled) Once that's done, unbolt the two 10mm bolts that hold it down and don't worry about replacing the gasket, it's metal and is reusable for life.

    With the EGR off and in your hands, very slowly spray some TB cleaner into the EGR valve with the holes pointing up and let it sit like that for the time being while you are doing other work (I'll get to that in a second). Letting the throttle body cleaner sit and soak will break up any carbon that might have built up within the valve and cause it to slightly stick open and cause the eratic idling.

    Now, back under the hood. Sometimes, the EGR passages get caked up with carbon, especially the V6 models and especially the Millenia 2.5L engine. Take your TB cleaner and spray into the hole on the IM. Spray until you see something coming out of the EGR passage where it bolts up at. The TB cleaner should be soaking within the carbon deposits and loosening it up.

    Now that you have sprayed passage down, take an air chuck and blow into that passage within the IM and hold your hand over the plenum hole so it don't blow back on you. If there's pressure, it's clogged pretty bad. But if now, you'll hear it come out of the EGR passage.

    When the hole is unclogged, put everything back together (make sure you empty out the TB cleaner from the EGR valve and reinstall it) and disconnect the battery negative and hold down on the brake for about 10 to 15 seconds to reset the computer (if you have a factory radio, make sure you have the code ready before doing). Now crank it up and you should be ready to go.

    Good luck
  • rondirondi Posts: 3
    My Mazda OD light started blinking yesterday and the car bucked for about 100 miles. I took it up to Canada, hoping I can find a cheaper way to replace the tranny, since I'm sure that's the problem (and knew this car has that guaranteed problem). Any suggestions for the best way to go in Vancouver, CA? What to avoid? I've heard that they never work well after you replace them (even though it's never been great as is).

    The light stopped blinking after the border crossing, but I'm not assuming it got fixed, but just that I'll be able to get it at least to a repair job instead of a tow.

  • Can someone please tell why my mazda 626 lx 1995 cuts off when i put it in reverse. The mechanic said something about low compression in the engine. I started having this problem when one the car ran hot and shut off on me. I had the water pump, timing belt, and head gasket changed.
    what is the problem i've read alot of horror stories on line.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Did somebody change the timing belt recently? An improperly installed timing belt could possibly cause stalling when the car is put in gear, however, it would tend to do so even if put in drive. (I have seen this happen with a loose timing chain on a Chevy truck).

    Improperly instlaled timing belt will cause low compression because some vavles may be partially open when they need to be closed.
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